sabre 28 sailboat for sale

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The Sabre 28 is an above-average coastal cruiser that should appeal to a couple or small family.

The Sabre 28 was the smallest boat in the line produced by Sabre Yachts of South Casco, Maine for much of the company’s history. The production run of the 28 lasted 14 years, from 1972 to 1986.

The Sabre 28 was the only model produced by the company until 1977, when the Sabre 34 entered production. In 1979 the gap between the Sabre 28 and the 34 was filled with a 30-footer of a design very similar to that of her two sisters. In 1982, the Sabre 38 was introduced, and features both a standard and an aft-cabin layout. A 32 was added in 1984, a 36 in 1985, and a 42-footer in 1987. Along the way, the 28 acquired a ketch-rig option. The 28 was dropped at the same time the 42 was introduced.

All boats in the Sabre line are of the modern cruiser-racer type, with fin keel and skeg-hung spade rudder. With a 1981 base price of about $37,000, and an average delivered price in southern New England of about $40,000 without sails or electronics, the Sabre 28 was a relatively expensive 28′ boat.

Despite a fairly high initial cost, the Sabre 28 has proved to be a good investment for her owners. One owner responding to The Practical Sailor’s boatowners’ survey reported that he paid $14,900 for his boat in 1973. That same boat in 1981 was worth about $24,000. A Sabre 28 purchased in 1976 cost $22,000, and was worth about $29,000 in 1981. The collapse of market values in the ’90s is evident in the latest figures, however: a 1986 Sabre 28, which cost $48,900 new, is now worth only about $34,000. This is typical of recent trends, and does not reflect on the Sabre 28—indeed, it’s held more of its value than many boats.

Owners report that the primary motivation for purchasing the boat can be summed up in one word: quality. Sabre is quite conscious of their producing a high-quality boat. The boat attracts buyers willing to pay a little more than average for a boat that is better than average.

As with all boats that have been in production for a number of years, the design of the Sabre 28 has evolved and improved over the years. In particular, a number of minor changes were made in August, 1982, some of which are noted below. Therefore, the price of a used Sabre 28 may be a function of whether it has some of the more desirable features.

The Sabre 28 is conventionally modern in appearance. She has a modest concave sheer, straight raked stern, and short after overhang.

Construction

The hull of the Sabre 28 is a slightly heavier-than-average hand layup of mat and roving. Some roving print through is evident, but there are no visible hard spots in the hull. Gelcoat quality is excellent.

There are optional hull and deck colors besides the stock white on white. On an early Sabre 28 we examined, the red gelcoat had faded to a dull pink, and the boat was past due for painting. In general red hulls are more susceptible to fading.

The deck of the Sabre 28 is balsa-cored for stiffness, with plywood inserts at stress areas such as winch mountings. The hull-to-deck joint uses a fairly standard internal hull flange, butyl-bedded and through bolted on 6″ centers with stainless steel bolts. These bolts also serve to attach a vinyl rubrail and the teak toerail: The hull-to-deck joint is through bolted across the transom.

All deck hardware, including stanchions, pulpits, and cleats, is through bolted and backed with thick aluminum plates which serve to distribute load. The stem fitting is a well-finished aluminum casting.

Skin fittings are recessed flush with the hull surface. All underwater through hull openings are fitted with bronze Spartan seacocks. Spartan seacocks have a short, lipped hose tailpiece rather than the more typical long straight tailpiece of other seacocks.

This short tailpiece precludes double clamping of hoses. This single hose clamp on below-water fit tings is fine as long as the hose clamps are kept tight. We recommend that they be checked at regular intervals.

In general, construction details are among the best that we’ve seen on a production sailboat. All fillet bonding is absolutely neat. There are no rough fiberglass areas anywhere. All exposed interior fiberglass surfaces, such as bilges and the inside of lockers, are gelcoated or painted.

Although tiller steering is standard, about 90% of the boats were delivered with Edson pedestal wheel steerers equipped with Ritchie compasses. The wheel steering option has proven so popular that in 1976 the cockpit of the Sabre 28 was redesigned to accommodate the wheel without interfering with the seating arrangement. Access to the rudder stock for emergency steering is via a plastic plate in the cockpit sole. An emergency tiller is provided with wheel-steered boats.

The mast of the Sabre 25 is a straight section Awlgripped aluminum extrusion built by Rig-Rite. Internal halyards, internal clew outhaul, topping lift, and two-point jiffy reefing are standard, as is a transom-mounted ball-bearing mainsheet traveler. The mast is deck-stepped in an aluminum casting. In new boats, this mast step has been redesigned to incorporate attachment points for blocks, facilitating the leading of halyards aft to the cockpit. Halyard winches mounted on the cabin top are another popular option.

Mast compression is transferred to the hull structure by a teak compression column incorporated in the main bulkhead. Shroud chainplates are heavily through-bolted to the main bulkhead, which is solidly glassed to the hull.

Originally, the Sabre 28 was rigged with single upper and lower shrouds. In 1975 forward lower shrouds were added to reduce mast pumping under sail and vibration at the mooring. Mast vibration in high winds, even at anchor, is a common problem with deck-stepped masts. Not all older Sabre 28s have been retrofitted with the additional set of lower shrouds. If purchase of a pre-1975 model is contemplated, be sure to ascertain that the forward lower shrouds have been installed.

The ballast keel is an external lead casting, well faired to the hull. Keelboats are accessible in the bilge for periodic tightening.

Construction of the Sabre 28 is strong without being overly heavy. There is no evidence of hurrying to finish the job anywhere in the boat.

Handling Under Sail

With optional wheel steering, optional cockpit-led halyards, and optional self-tailing headsail sheet winches, the Sabre 28 can easily be handled by one or two people. The mainsheet is within easy reach of the helmsman. Unfortunately, his head is also within easy reach of the mainsheet when jibing, except on newer boats; the mainsheet was relocated to the cabin top in 1982.

With main chainplates set well inboard, the headsail sheeting base of the boat is quite narrow, particularly if the boat is equipped with the optional inboard genoa track in addition to the standard toerail-mounted genoa track, The sheeting base is, for example, almost a foot narrower than that of the Hunter 27. This allows the Sabre 28 to be reasonably close-winded. With her relatively small wetted surface and a big genoa, she will be fast in light air.

Unless the water in your cruising area is spread very thin, we suggest you look for the standard keel version rather than the shoal keel. The shoal keel presents a less efficient lateral plane for windward work.

Some attention will have to be paid to the size of headsail used. Owners report that, although the Sabre 28 more than holds her own with other boats of her size and type, she is not a particularly stiff boat. Owners consider her performance well above average, although her PHRF rating suggests only average performance compared to similar cruiserracers. Due to the off-center solid prop, the boat may be faster on one tack than the other, and owners who intend to race the Sabre 28 should experiment to see if this is the case.

Handling Under Power

Several different engines were used in the Sabre 28. Until 1975 all were equipped with the Atomic Four gasoline engine. In 1975 a 10 horsepower Volvo diesel was offered as an option. In 1978, both these engines were dropped, and the Volvo MD7A diesel became standard. The MD7A is a two cylinder engine rated at 13 horsepower. In 1981 it was replaced by the Westerbeke 13.

The propeller shaft on the right hand turning Atomic Four is offset to port. On the left hand turning Volvos, it is offset to starboard. On the earliest Sabre 28s the shaft was on centerline. This change in engines from right hand to left hand rotation means that replacement of engines in off-center located Atomic Four powered boats will be limited to either the Atomic Four gas engine or some other right hand turning engine. Otherwise there will be considerable compromise in handling characteristics under power.

Owners report that engine access on early Atomic Four equipped models is poor. In current Volvo-powered models, access for routine service is good. Some joinerwork disassembly—planned in, fortunately—is required for engine removal, Routine service is via doors and panels.

There is no oil sump under the engine. Access to the stuffing box, needed annually for repacking and adjustment, is poor. Engine instruments—a full bank, with no idiot lights —are mounted in the bridgedeck, with engine starting and stopping controls under the helmsman’s seat. While this may seem awkward at first, it does protect the always-vulnerable ignition switch from water. This is an unusual, but reasonable arrangement.

Owners consider the boat’s handling under power to be good. With her fin keel and spade rudder, she will turn in a tight circle. Owners report that any of the engines will drive the boat at or near “hull speed” under most conditions,

Deck Layout

In 1976, a foredeck anchor well was added to the Sabre 28. The well is large enough to hold adequate primary ground tackle for the boat. It has provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode in boats built since 1982. We would add an eyebolt or U-bolt to the well for this purpose if it is not already there.

The water tank vent is located in the anchor well. This is a rational location for an item whose position is commonly an afterthought. Frequently, tank vents are located in the topsides, just below the sheer, This can cause backsiphoning of salt water into fuel or freshwater tanks. We saw this occur on several boats—not Sabres—in the 1979 Marion-Bermuda race, which featured four days of slogging to windward in heavy air.

The Sabre 28 is one of the few boats we have seen that uses Skene bow chocks. Skene chocks effectively hold the anchor rode or mooring lines in the chocks, even if the boat sails around on her anchor. This is an important consideration in many modern boats, for the Sabre 28, like many modern sloops of moderate displacement, probably sails almost as many miles while anchored or moored as when underway.

Heavy teak handrails and a very effective molded-in nonskid surface facilitate movement on deck in a seaway. The side decks are of necessity narrow due to the wide cabin trunk.

The cockpit of the Sabre 28 is large and comfortable. It is as large a cockpit as we would consider safe for offshore sailing on a 28′ boat. With wheel steering the cockpit easily seats five.

Cockpit lockers deserve special comment. There are two molded-in recesses in the winch islands, handy for winch handles, sail stops, and other small items. There is a shallow lift-top locker under the port cockpit seat, a deeper locker under the helmsman’s seat, and a deep locker under the starboard seat.

The deep starboard locker is bulkheaded off from the bowels of the boat so that sails, fenders, and lines will not migrate to the depths of the bilge. This locker contains built-in holders for the companionway drop boards and emergency tiller, as well as a shelf arranged for line stowage. Although the lid to this locker is a little small for the easy removal of sails, it is one of the best designed cockpit lockers we have seen.

By comparison, the companionway is a bit of a disappointment. Although it is suitably narrow and has a good bridgedeck, the opening is sharply tapered, allowing removal of the drop boards by lifting them only about an inch.

The drop boards themselves are 1/2″ teak-faced plywood in early boats, solid teak in post-1982 models. The exposed edge grain of the plywood core will soon turn gray unless the boards are well varnished. Eventually they may delaminate. We believe that plywood should not be used where it will be subject to weathering. Frankly, the boards look a little cheap on a boat of this quality.

Newer boats have a transparent smoked plexiglass companionway hatch top. Older boats have fiberglass hatches. The plexiglass hatch allows a good deal of light below.

At night, when tied to the dock, it also allows people on the dock to stare into the main cabin. An often forgotten corollary to transparent hatches is that if they allow light below during the day, they allow it out at night. The glare of a white light belowdecks can wipe out the helmsman’s night vision. Not a common problem, admittedly, but a real one nonetheless.

The first impression of the Sabre 28 belowdecks is that she is roomy, neat, and well-finished. Headroom is 6′ under the main hatch, and an honest 5′ 11″ in the main cabin.

The forward cabin contains V-berths with a filler to form a double. The 30-gallon molded polyethylene water tank is located under the forward berths. There is a drawer and a bin under each berth.

With the forward hatch open, it is possible to stand and dress comfortably with the berth filler removed.

The head is full width and closes off from both the forward cabin and main cabin by doors. The Sabre 28 came standard with a 22-gallon holding tank. A Y-valve diverter was optional.

Despite a lot of teak bulkheads and trim, the main cabin is bright and attractive. There are substantial grab rails overhead. The port settee extends to form a double berth. With all berths filled, the Sabre 28 sleeps six. Frankly, six people on a 28′ boat is too many, even for a weekend. We would prefer an alternate four-berth interior arrangement that provides a larger galley. Some older Sabre 28s are equipped with such a layout.

A bulkhead-mounted fold-down cabin table seats four comfortably. It is secured in the folded position by a screw-type hatch dog, a good idea, since a rattling table can drive you to distraction.

At the after end of the main cabin, the galley is located to starboard, with a quarterberth to port. Galley storage is good, with four drawers and several lockers. The galley sink is located just off centerline, almost under the companionway. While this location is good for ensuring that the sink will drain on either tack, care must be taken going below when well heeled on the port tack to avoid stepping into the sink.

The galley stove is a recessed two-burner Kenyon alcohol stove. Stoves of this type, which have integral fuel tanks with the fuel fill located between the burners, present a potential fire hazard if the fuel tank is refilled before the burners have cooled adequately.

On pre-1982 boats, the icebox is well insulated with the exception of the top. Given the fact that Sabre has gone so far as to install an icebox pump to keep ice melt from smelling up the bilge, we were pleased to see them complete the otherwise well designed icebox in 1982 by insulating the top and lids.

Wiring, plumbing—in general, all finishing details—are well designed and neatly finished. The location of the main electrical panel next to the companionway, where it is vulnerable to spray, is an exception to the generally well thought out installations.

Four opening ports are standard; an additional hatch over the main cabin is optional. We recommend this additional ventilation if the boat is to be used in a warm climate. The dorade box over the head is the only provision for foul-weather ventilation.

Conclusions

The Sabre 28 is an attractive, well-built, well-finished boat. Although her price is above average, construction and finish details are also well above average for a stock boat. Despite her modern underbody, she is a conservative design, conservatively built.

The Sabre 28 is neither an all-out racer, nor an allout cruiser. She is a good compromise boat, strong enough to cruise with confidence and fast enough not to embarrass.

She is good-looking in a modern way, without being so modern as to be trendy. She will probably not appeal to the hard-core traditionalist, nor to the flat-out modernist. She appeals mostly as a well turned out coastal cruiser for the couple or a small family. The Sabre 25 may be no Swan, but she’s a long way from an ugly duckling.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Appreciate your in depth comments on this yacht. I raced aboard one on Long Island Sound in the mid 70’s. I echo your sentiments and conclusion.

Is the motor cruiser version safe to use in the offshore UK waters?

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Sabre 28 Sailboat Boats for sale

28ft. Sabre Sailboat

Clayton, New York

Model 28ft Sailboat

Length 28.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1975 Sabre is in excellent condition for the year of the boat. Boat has been dry docked for 5 plus years. Newly painted bottom in Fall of 2014. New sails in bags - never used. Excellent boat looking for owner to get her back in the water. Price is negotiable. Need to sell boat.

1974 Sabre 28-1 Sailboat

Boyne City, Michigan

This is the boat that started it all for Sabre. It has been a freshwater boat throughout it's life, much of it on Lake Charlevoix in Northern Michigan.New mainsail 2012, new spinnaker 2013, new genoa 2014. Has spinnaker gear. Instruments include Standard Horizon depth, speed, and wind speed and direction. Large (fairly new)Ritchie bulkhead compass. Has Harken MK III roller furling for the jib (works great). Uniden UM525 VHF radio with DSC capability and Boss 612 UA marine stereo with cabin and cockpit speakers. Atomic 4 engine runs great and has been problem free. Has a Simrad TP10 tillerpilot for automatic steering. Danforth style anchor with 150 ft of 3/4 inch rode and chain on a spool. Also has a smaller lightweight "picnic anchor". Includes a 2 burner Homestrand 206 pressurized alcohol stove. This boat has been cruised by a couple throughout the Great Lakes and lightly raced.2-Lewmar 30 self tailing winches, 2-Barlow 20s, 1 Barlow 16 (jib halyard), and 1 Barient 10 (Main and Spinnaker halyards).Shore power and Blue Sea Systems distribution panel.Includes steel cradle.

1975 Sabre 28

Traverse City, Michigan

Category Cruiser Boats

1975 Sabre 28 A exceptionally clean "Fresh Water" sailboat.

Sabre 28 Cruising Sailboat 1981

St. Petersburg, Florida

This boat is known for the outstanding construction and excellent sailing qualities of a Sabre. The hull is solid fiberglass laminate set in polyester resin with eight layers of mat and woven roving down low tapering up to four layers at the sheerline. The deck is balsa-cored with plywood substituted in hi-load areas where hardware is mounted. The hardware is also supported by heavy aluminum backing plates. The ballast is external lead mounted on SS keel bolts that are easily accessible in the bilge. 13hp Volvo, Raymarine autopilot, Depth sounder w/new transducer, Crusing spinnaker w/sock, roller furling genoa, forward v-berth, new head.

1974 Sabre 28-1

Chapin, South Carolina

Private Seller (301) 717-6471 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 1974 Sabre 28-1,Sabre 28 1974 Great shape very clean Great Family boat with lots of cockpit room as well as interior head room. Wheel steering Roller furling New interior cushions New working lines New helm and sail cover New traveler and boom vang New compass Auto helm Dodger (needs some re-stitching) Cockpit cushions Atomic 4 $10,900 Specs: http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=975 Award winning (American Sailboat Hall of Fame 2003) Rodger Hewson design. The Sabre story began in 1970, when the company's founder, Roger Hewson, set out to build the finest possible 28-foot sailing yacht using production line methods and fiberglass technology. In a small, 4,000 square foot building, with a handful of employees and a vast amount of market research which he had done on the marine industry, he designed and built the first Sabre 28, and introduced it to the market at the 1971 Newport Boat Show in Newport, RI. The boat was a success, and over the next fifteen years, 588 Sabre 28's were built. $10,900, 3017176471 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|

1973 Sabre 28

Kill Devil Hills, North Carolina

Private Seller (804) 304-7432 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 1973 Sabre 28, 'Jenny' - Sabre 28 sailboat - Hull #27 - Newer Diesel Engine, Brand New Doyle Sails ________________________________________ Jenny is a beautiful 1973 Sabre 28 sloop, Hull #27. Her Hull/Deck is solid, in great shape and the interior is like new. Jenny has been well maintained and well cared for and it shows! She has a brand new Harken Cruising 1 furling system and brand new Doyle sails (mainsail and a 135% headsail w/sunbrella) installed with a new mainsail cover and lazy jacks in 2013. Also included are storm jib, 110% headsail, and spinnaker. All new standing rigging installed in June 2014. She also has a 14 HP Beta Marine diesel engine which was newly installed in 2007 (now has only 224 hours!!!) along with a new prop and prop shaft. Two new Optima blue-top batteries in 2013, new 12v breaker panel 2013, masthead navigation LED tri-light with anchor light 2013. Hauled and bottom painted with two coats of ablative bottom paint in 2013. All new running rigging, spectra lifelines, and Sunbrella mainsail cover in 2013. Oil and filters changed in fall 2013. New hull and deck Awlgrip in 2002. All new exterior teak wood in 2004. A new head and holding tank in 2003. Jenny's forward cabin has a V berth, with two opening ports and a opening hatch. Aft of the forward cabin is the new head and SS Sink. The head also contains two opening ports. The main cabin has a large fold down table and 6' 1" headroom. the galley contains a large icebox, two burner alcohol stove and a Stainless Steel sink. The boat is currently located in Colington Harbour in Kill Devil Hills, NC. Contact Jason with questions or to schedule a showing.EQUIPMENT: Harken Cruising1 furling system-2013, Autopilot-2008 Compass 2002, new depth finder 2013, fixed mount VHF 2008, spinnaker, storm jib, 110% headsail, mainsail-2013, 135% headsail-2013, battery charger 2008, marine CD player/speakers 08' $15950, 8043047432 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|

1982 S2 8.5A 28 foot Sailboat with Inboard Yanmar Diesel - In Racine Wisconsin

Racine, Wisconsin

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

**** PLEASE NOTE: Because of the relatively low BUY IT NOW price, payment will be due within 24 hours via paypal. I will send you a paypal invoice after a successful "BUY IT NOW" or an accepted offer. Please only buy or offer if you have positive feedback. Your buy it now or offer constitutes a binding agreement to purchase so please ask questions BEFORE clicking "BUY IT NOW" or making an offer. After receiving your payment I will overnight you the title or meet you in person depending on timing and my availability.**** Very Nice S2 8.5A (28ft) for sale in Racine Wisconsin. I'm expecting a second child soon and really don't want to sell this excellent great lakes cruiser. Clean and clear Wisconsin title.Tiller steering. (always my preference)Inboard Yanmar diesel is extremely clean and fuel efficient. Recent full Yanmar service checkout since boat was last launched.Furling headsail in good shape. Newer mainsail in excellent shape.New Raymarine autopilot professionally installed. Shore power and long power cable. Halyards in good shape.New marine head and holding tank (never used). Chainplates recently professionally rebedded by boatyard. Interior in excellent shape.Solid fiberglass hull. All tabbed in joinery in excellent shape. Cored deck with NO soft spots. Very large cockpit.Includes steel cradle as well. I looked at everything in this size and price range in the lower half of lake Michigan for two years and this is the nicest boat I could find by leaps and bounds. Solid turnkey value. Launch is all ready paid for with the boat yard. You can be in the water tomorrow. No better deal can be found on solid and ready to sail Great Lakes cruiser with a clean inboard diesel - it is just time for me to move it along. Currently out of the water at Racine Riverside Marina in Racine, WI. Summer storage is paid through the end of this month and a launch is included in the purchase. If you chose not to launch until next season the storage rates at the Marina for winter are extremely reasonable and the pre-paid launch will still be yours come next summer. Here is a Review from "Practical Sailor" S2 8.5 MeterThe 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look.When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations. In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.ConstructionThe hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.Handling Under PowerAlthough some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.Handling Under SailThe S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.Owners of 8.5s have little but praise for the interior of the boat. The cabin has a wide feeling, created by pushing everything outboard. The “chart area” on the plan is a myth, as far as we can tell.Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.Deck LayoutThe deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.BelowdecksOwners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12" of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.ConclusionsThe S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.

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1974 Sabre 28-1

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Seller's Description

Beautiful, classic lines, top quality construction, pocket cruiser great for coastal cruising but strong enough to sail offshore. This boat has only been in freshwater. Competitive for club racing with PHRF ratings below 200. Designed by Roger Hewson. Hull is solid fiberglass laminate set in polyester resin. Large sail plan with well-formed fin keel and skeg-supported spade rudder. Many new items, rewired electric (2021). Below decks is teak hardwood, teak joinery. 5” thick cushions and new upholstery throughout (2021) make for a beautiful and comfortable cruiser. WINTER STORAGE PAID IN FULL

Equipment: Instrumentation: Full Raymarine ST60 instrument set including SmartPilot X-5 autohelm, depth, speed, wind, ST60 graphic display Garmin Echomap 74DV Chart Plotter (2019) ChargePro Marine Battery Charger (2021) ICOM VHF Marine Radio IC-M424G GPS (2019) ICOM HM-195 Remote control handset for cockpit (2019) Electric rewired, new shore power hookup and cord (2021)

Cockpit: Edson pedestal Ritchie Navigator Compass New foresail sheets (2021) New Harken traveler (2020) Harken MKIV Jib Reefing and Furling Cockpit 7 in length Dodger and cockpit cover canvas Upholstered custom cockpit cushions

Engine: Atomic 4 Marine Engine #78776 (30 HP)

Rig and sails: Deck-stepped rig Lewmar 40 self-tailing winches Head sail sheeting on both inboard and toerail track Quantum sails, excellent shape: Main with reef lines, Jib, 150% Genoa, Symmetrical spinnaker with pole Asymmetrical spinnaker with Selden pole/hardware and dousing sock Chainplates reset and resealed (2018)

Hull: Awlgrip Topcoat (considered among the best topcoat paints in the marine industry, cost est. $7000 8000, no wax) VC-17 bottom paint

Salon and accommodations: New upholstery (2021) 5 cushions Quality teak joinery, solid hardwood teak throughout Good standing headroom (6) Fold down bulkhead table expands to accommodate both settees Port settee pulls out to a full-size bed Roomy captains berth to port Nice-sized V berth enclosed with solid wood door

Galley: Refrigeration with freezer (rare on smaller boats) Origo Alcohol Stove Sink with foot pump

Head: New Jabsco manual marine toilet (2020) Head is fully enclosed with two solid wood doors Sink with foot pump and vanity area Storage locker

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

A small number were delivered with a ketch rig. (8) Shoal draft: 3.8’ Hulls < #212. Photo courtesy Adam Hunt.

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• Russian Kitchen

Zhostovo: All you need to know about painted lacquer trays

During World War II, all of Russia’s iron was sent to the front line, but in the village of Zhostovo, just outside Moscow, a craftsman named Andrei Gogin continued to teach girls the old art of iron tray painting on… American cans. They came as part of humanitarian shipments. While all the men went to the front line, the young girls stayed in their households: they went to the forest to gather firewood, heated their homes and studied. So even in the most difficult years for the country, masters tried to preserve and pass on their knowledge of the old Russian craft.

Zhostovo is an old village in Mytishchi near Moscow, known since the early 19th century. At the time, Zhestovo, as it was formerly called, was part of the Troitskaya volost in Moscow Region. It was thanks to serf peasant Philip Vishnyakov that it, at some point, attracted the attention of the entire Russia.

Vishnyakov worked as a carriage driver at a rather large free tobacco factory owned by a merchant named Korobov in the neighboring village of Danilkino (now called Fedoskino). It was there that painted lacquer papier-maché boxes started to be produced. Fedoskino lacquer miniature is also a traditional old Russian craft. Korobov bought the lacquer coating recipe in Germany, with Vishnyakov later borrowing the technique.

Fedoskino stamp

“Let’s call it a collaboration”

In his village of Zhostovo, he opened a “lacquer workshop”. At first, they also worked with papier-maché, manufacturing snuff boxes, jewel boxes and trays decorated with copies of famous paintings or drawings popular at the time. The business was booming: a store opened its doors to customers in the center of Moscow, while, back in Zhostovo, the peasant put his brother in charge of their ‘Vishnyakov brothers’ manufacture of lacquered metal trays, biscuit jars, trays, papier-maché boxes, cigarette cases, teapots and albums’ business. 

“Papier-maché used to be like stone. It’s for a reason that a semi-finished product takes six months to prepare. First, boxes were painted, then trays were made of papier-maché . They are preserved in the Russian Museum of St. Petersburg. The boxes were black, said to be resembling the soil, which flowers grow in,” says Larisa Goncharova, Russia’s honored artist and Zhostovo’s hereditary master.

Soviet stamp from Zhostovo.

In 1825, Osip Vishnyakov’s son opened an independent workshop in the neighboring village of Ostashkovo, where he focused on the production of trays not of papier-maché, but of metal. The younger Vishnyakov is said to have met Ural masters, who sold iron trays at a fair and, like his father, he supposedly borrowed the idea from them. “Let’s call it a second ‘collaboration’,” laughs Larisa Goncharova. 

The metal trays were of a simple rounded shape, initially modestly decorated on their sides. Later, they were painted in the “Ural style” - with flowers and “herbs”, with a dark background and lacquer coating preserved, which made it possible for the trays to last for a long time.

Nizhny Tagil painting.

With the abolition of serfdom, the Vishnyakovs had quite a bit of competition: family workshops that produced the same painted iron trays started to emerge in Zhostovo, neighboring Ostashkov, Khlebnikov and other villages of the Troitskaya volost.

Learning on tin cans

“Mytishchi is derived from the word mytnya, which means ‘customs’. Boats loaded with goods sailed down the Klyazma River to Moscow and they stopped at the customs checkpoint in Mytishchi. There were a lot of tea houses around, where merchants drank tea. And it certainly was served on trays,” says Larisa Goncharova, explaining their popularity in Zhostovo in the 19th century.

Today’s Mytishchi is adjacent to Moscow: thanks to the proximity to the big city, craftsmen from the Troitskaya volost easily found a market outlet at local fairs to sell their goods. By the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, Zhostovo, as well as other folk crafts, went into decline, due to the beginning of industrialization and World War I. Men left for the front line, while women held the fort.

Girls studying the Zhostovo craft.

By 1930, the situation had changed: the craft began to be revived and workshops were united into guilds. But then World War II intervened. “That’s when famous Zhostovo master Andrei Pavlovich Gogin picked six girls, including my mother Nina, and began to teach them to paint on cans, so that the craft wouldn’t die,” Goncharova tells the story of her family.

In the 1940s, an art school opened in the neighboring settlement of Fedoskin, where there was a Zhostovo painting department and, in the 1960s, a guild called ‘Metallopodnos’ (literally ‘metal tray’) became known as the ’Zhostovo Factory of Decorative Painting’. After the collapse of the USSR, it was transferred into private hands and it is still in operation today.

“The state supports the factory, they enjoy great benefits and investments; separately, a museum was opened and, even in winter, tourists visit by bus. Sometimes, trays are bought, sometimes - not; but, every day, there are guided tours at the factory. At times, six to eight buses a day arrive at the museum, especially on weekends, bringing children,” Goncharova rejoices.

Siberian squirrel’s ear

The Zhostovo tray technology allows the products to serve more than one family generation. And though all secrets are already known, there are nuances without which a tray cannot be referred to as “Zhostovo-manufactured”.  A pressed or forged shape is first degreased by removing the film from the metal. If this is not done, it will corrode and, over time, the tray will be damaged. 

Then, a black oil primer and background are added, the item is cleaned and passed on to an artist. They paint the tray “in two steps”. The first layer, or as artists call it, “zamalyovok”, is applied with a bleached paint. The tray is then left to dry overnight in an oven. The second paint layer is then applied.

Here is how the artist herself depicts the intricacies of the work:

“All the paints are oil ones, with the round brushes made from the hair of the Siberian squirrel. These are special brushes, knitted by hand and specially ordered for Zhostovo masters. There are no such brushes for sale, they are too expensive. The brush strokes have to be soft - something that can be achieved only with a squirrel-hair brush. The strokes must be applied in one breath. It’s impossible to describe it, to learn how to do it, one has to sit beside the master and feel how their brush stroke dances, to see where to press it, where to lift the brush, how to hold it and adjust. You just can’t learn how to do it on the Internet. A Zhostovo stroke is different from all the others.”

Goncharova’s tray with the author’s signature.

The pattern is applied on the tray surface wet from linseed oil. Next come two coats of varnish: it fixes the paint and makes it glossy. 

One of the trays made by Goncharova.

“In earlier times, it was boiled based on a secret recipe, which was never revealed, but my granddad knew it,” Goncharova says, adding that, nowadays, all craftsmen use Russian or American-produced lacquers.

As opposed to the Khokhloma painting of wooden dishware, there are no real examples in Zhostovo tray painting: the artists paint “out of their heads”. Yet, the traditional recognizable motifs are still preserved: everyday life scenes, Fedoskino troikas, landscapes, birds, but, most importantly - bouquets. They boast all kinds of flowers, from creepers to roses, which are considered to be “the queen” of Zhostovo art. The most common composition is center-oriented. Three or four flowers are placed in the middle, with buds and smaller flowers put closer to the edges. “Such a bouquet typically has three leaves marking the bottom. The whole composition is completed with a binding - thin grass, which is the darkest in color. Zhostovo artists strove for beauty, especially given the fact that winter lasts six months,” explains Goncharova.

Three minutes to the factory across a potato field

Zhostovo lies on a peninsula: it is almost entirely surrounded by water and communication with the “mainland” has always been a bit of a challenge. Only in the 1960s was a bus stop built five kilometers away from Zhostovo, along the new route to the Klyazma sanatorium. Because of such a location, mostly locals worked at the factory. The heirs of craftsmen’s dynasties - the Antipovs, the Mozhaevs, the Leontievs, to name a few - still live in Zhostovo. Larisa Goncharova is from the Belyaev dynasty: her mother, grandmother -  all in the male lineage - were artists and lived there.

Larisa Goncharova with her mother Nina.

“In Soviet times, locals worked at the factory: blacksmiths and stampers, lacquerers, painters, and ornamentalists. Young people were coming out of the Fedoskino school. Few stayed at the factory: everyone wanted to earn money straight away and it took years of experience to become skilled. It is not an easy technique. Now we only have two blacksmiths left at the factory. They are both over 70, but they still continue doing their job. Artists also order molds from them, because they can forge anything. The work is labor-intensive and no one even wants to learn how to do it. I don’t know what will happen after them.”

Naturally, the price of a tray depends not only on how the mold is made: it can easily be distinguished from a fake one by the bent edge. No less important is the popularity of the artist: there are ordinary ones and there are those who made a name for themselves. The tray comes with a certificate featuring who made it. “Yet, only one honored artist still remains at the factory - chief artist Mikhail Lebedev,” says Goncharova. 

The cheapest tray in the factory store costs about 2,000 rubles (approx. $28). But, you can spend up to 180 thousand (approx. $2,500) for works by a reputable artist. 

In 2003, Larisa Goncharova, just like her mother Nina Goncharova, received the title of ‘honored artist’. Larisa worked at the factory until her retirement: "The factory is right behind my house, three minutes away across the potato field”.

In 1996, she became self-employed and opened her own studio .  

Nina Goncharova at work.

Starting from then, a couple of times a year, she also traveled abroad to teach - to America, Australia, Germany and Italy:

“I taught for 15 years in America. Russian crafts are very popular there. It’s certainly not possible to teach anyone how to make Zhostovo trays in a three- to four-day course, but they were able to paint one item in this time. You have to live on this soil to paint in the Zhostovo technique.”  

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• What is life like in a town where one in eight residents are artists?
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Top 20 things to do and attractions in Mytishchi

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1 St. Basil's Cathedral

2 All-Russian Exhibition Center

3 Kva-Kva Park

4 fest mytishchi drama and comedy theatre, 5 mytishchi arena.

Track your travel spending and split costs with friends

Plan your trip. Keep your budget organized. Split the cost between tripmates. Wanderlog does it all.

6 Mytishchi Park Of Culture And Leisure

7 monument to the hero of the soviet union raspopova nina maksimovna, 9 teatr kukol ognivo, 10 mytishchi history and art museum, 11 mytishchinskaya kartinnaya galereya, 12 temple of the don mother of god, 13 perlovskiy park, 14 petrushkina sloboda, 15 church of st john the baptist in the barbarous gate.

Don’t forget to pack anything

Stay organized with a to-do list, packing list, shopping list, any kind of list.

16 XL Outlet

17 interactive einstein museum, 18 zamaniya, family adventure park, 19 temple st. great martyr george, 20 chasovnya vo imya nikolaya chudotvortsa v mytishchakh, what's the weather like in mytishchi.

It depends on when you visit! We've compiled data from NASA on what the weather is like in Mytishchi for each month of the year: see the links below for more information.

• Weather in Mytishchi in January
• Weather in Mytishchi in February
• Weather in Mytishchi in March
• Weather in Mytishchi in April
• Weather in Mytishchi in May
• Weather in Mytishchi in June
• Weather in Mytishchi in July
• Weather in Mytishchi in August
• Weather in Mytishchi in September
• Weather in Mytishchi in October
• Weather in Mytishchi in November
• Weather in Mytishchi in December

Explore nearby places

• Lesnyye Polyany
• Dolgoprudny
• Zagoryanskiy
• Ptitsefabriki
• Pekhra-Pokrovskoye
• Ivanovskoye
• Bratovshhina
• Likino-Dulevo

All related maps of Mytishchi

• Map of Mytishchi
• Map of Korolev
• Map of Zdravnitsa
• Map of Nagornoye
• Map of Yubileyny
• Map of Cherkizovo
• Map of Boltino
• Map of Pirogovo
• Map of Pogorelki
• Map of Tarasovka
• Map of Sorokino
• Map of Lesnyye Polyany
• Map of Povedniki
• Map of Ostashkovo
• Map of Oboldino
• Map of Zhostovo
• Map of Suponevo
• Map of Dolgoprudny
• Map of Zagoryanskiy
• Map of Izmaylovo
• Map of Moskovsky
• Map of Ptitsefabriki
• Map of Pekhra-Pokrovskoye
• Map of Ivanovskoye
• Map of Komyagino
• Map of Yuryevo
• Map of Bratovshhina
• Map of Fedoskino
• Map of Danki
• Map of Shatura
• Map of Likino-Dulevo

Mytishchi throughout the year

• Mytishchi in January
• Mytishchi in February
• Mytishchi in March
• Mytishchi in April
• Mytishchi in May
• Mytishchi in June
• Mytishchi in July
• Mytishchi in August
• Mytishchi in September
• Mytishchi in October
• Mytishchi in November
• Mytishchi in December

Looking for day-by-day itineraries in Mytishchi?

Get inspired for your trip to Mytishchi with our curated itineraries that are jam-packed with popular attractions everyday! Check them out here:

• 1-Day Mytishchi Itinerary
• 2-Day Mytishchi Itinerary
• 3-Day Mytishchi Itinerary

• Itinerary + map in one view
• Live collaboration
• Auto-import hotels and reservations
• Optimize your route
• Offline access on mobile
• See time and distance between all your places

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Vasily Perov

Tea-Party at Mytishchi near Moscow , 1862

Oil on canvas

Recent Lots by Vasily Perov

Portrait of a Young Woman - Vasily Perov

Portrait d'un homme barbu en toge - Vasily Perov

Conversation over a round table - Vasily Perov