yawl rigged sailboat

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What’s in a Rig? The Yawl

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs , Sailboats

What’s in a Rig Series #5 – the Yawl

Like, the ketch a yawl is equipped with two masts, a main and a mizzen, but ordinarily on a yawl, the mast is smaller and set behind the rudder post. This, therefore, beckons the question: is this an efficient and practical rig?

Although some credible sailors, like the legendary Don Street, will espouse the virtues of the yawl rig and say it is a worthwhile design with practical and solid value – it’s an argument for the yacht club bar.

Street might tell you the aft sail provides balance, acts as an “air rudder” and is generally an asset to the system he works with on his beloved 46 ft. engineless yawl, Iolaire. But many other sailors who have experience with both types of rigs tend to credit the yawl with being more pretty than efficient. While some yawl sailors contest the small sail configuration that hangs over the stern is an aid to heaving to and steadying life at a mooring, most concede the mizzen on a yawl is not what it is on a ketch. Typically, it doesn’t provide any horsepower to speak of or ease-of-handling benefits in splitting the rig like a ketch or schooner might. In fact, there are some who contest that the rig is a “rule beater” designed to gain advantages for certain racing rules that existed.

Like all sailboat rigs, there are camps that love and camps that condemn. The consensus when it comes to yawls is that, if nothing else, it is a dignified and beautiful look. They have a poetic stature, a specific grace and an esteem about them that is, perhaps even stately. The engineers in the crowd will be confounded by this but the romantics understand. Sailboats are, after all, anthropomorphic; we love them as we love a friend. So, if this quaint sail hung from a petite mizzen mast   gives the boat added character and makes the skipper more content, we say: raise up that little bit of canvas and have an awesome sail!

Photo Pat Reynolds.

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Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

What are the different types of sail rig? The sail rig is determined by the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Most modern ships are fore-and-aft rigged, while old ships are square-rigged. Rigs with one mast are sloops and cutters. Ketches, yawls, brigs, and schooners have two masts. Barques have three masts. Rigs can contain up to seven masts.

'Yeah, that's a gaff brig, and that a Bermuda cutter' - If you don't know what this means (neither did I) and want to know what to call a two-masted ship with a square-rigged mainsail, this article is definitely for you.

On this page:

More info on sail rig types, mast configurations and rig types, rigs with one mast, rigs with two masts, rigs with three masts, related questions.

This article is part 2 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 1 is all about the different types of sails. If you want to know everything there is to know about sails once and for all, I really recommend you read it. It gives a good overview of sail types and is easy to understand.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast(s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat.

Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll understand everything about rig types.

The sail rig and sail plan are often used interchangeably. When we talk of the sail rig we usually mean the sail plan . Although they are not quite the same. A sail plan is the set of drawings by the naval architect that shows the different combinations of sails and how they are set up for different weather conditions. For example a light air sail plan, storm sail plan, and the working sail plan (which is used most of the time).

So let's take a look at the three things that make up the sail plan.

The 3 things that make up the sail plan

I want to do a quick recap of my previous article. A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

I'll explore the most common rig types in detail later in this post. I've also added pictures to learn to recognize them more easily. ( Click here to skip to the section with pictures ).

How to recognize the sail plan?

So how do you know what kind of boat you're dealing with? If you want to determine what the rig type of a boat is, you need to look at these three things:

• Check the number of masts, and how they are set up.
• You look at the type of sails used (the shape of the sails, how many there are, and what functionality they have).
• And you have to determine the rig type, which means the way the sails are set up.

Below I'll explain each of these factors in more detail.

The most common rig types on sailboats

To give you an idea of the most-used sail rigs, I'll quickly summarize some sail plans below and mention the three things that make up their sail plan.

• Bermuda sloop - one mast, one mainsail, one headsail, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff cutter - one mast, one mainsail, two staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff schooner - two-masted (foremast), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff ketch - two-masted (mizzen), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Full-rigged ship or tall ship - three or more masts, mainsail on each mast, staysails, square-rigged

The first word is the shape and rigging of the mainsail. So this is the way the sail is attached to the mast. I'll go into this later on. The second word refers to the mast setup and amount of sails used.

Most sailboats are Bermuda sloops. Gaff-rigged sails are mostly found on older, classic boats. Square-rigged sails are generally not used anymore.

But first I want to discuss the three factors that make up the sail plan in more detail.

Ways to rig sails

There are basically two ways to rig sails:

• From side to side, called Square-rigged sails - the classic pirate sails
• From front to back, called Fore-and-aft rigged sails - the modern sail rig

Almost all boats are fore-and-aft rigged nowadays.

Square sails are good for running downwind, but they're pretty useless when you're on an upwind tack. These sails were used on Viking longships, for example. Their boats were quicker downwind than the boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails, but they didn't handle as well.

The Arabs first used fore-and-aft rigged sails, making them quicker in difficult wind conditions.

Quick recap from part 1: the reason most boats are fore-and-aft rigged today is the increased maneuverability of this configuration. A square-rigged ship is only good for downwind runs, but a fore-and-aft rigged ship can sail close to the wind, using the lift to move forward.

The way the sails are attached to the mast determines the shape of the sail. The square-rigged sails are always attached the same way to the mast. The fore-and-aft rig, however, has a lot of variations.

The three main sail rigs are:

• Bermuda rig - most used - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail on a long yard

The Bermuda is the most used, the gaff is a bit old-fashioned, and the lateen rig is outdated (about a thousand years). Lateen rigs were used by the Moors. The Bermuda rig is actually based on the Lateen rig (the Dutch got inspired by the Moors).

Other rig types that are not very common anymore are:

• Junk rig - has horizontal battens to control the sail
• Settee rig - Lateen with the front corner cut off
• Crabclaw rig

Mast configuration

Okay, we know the shape of the mainsail. Now it's time to take a look at the mast configuration. The first thing is the number of masts:

• one-masted boats
• two-masted boats
• three-masted boats
• four masts or up
• full or ship-rigged boats - also called 'ships' or 'tall ships'

I've briefly mentioned the one and two mast configurations in part 1 of this article. In this part, I'll also go over the three-masted configurations, and the tall ships as well.

A boat with one mast has a straightforward configuration because there's just one mast. You can choose to carry more sails or less, but that's about it.

A boat with two masts or more gets interesting. When you add a mast, it means you have to decide where to put the extra mast: in front, or in back of the mainmast. You can also choose whether or not the extra mast will carry an extra mainsail. The placement and size of the extra mast are important in determining what kind of boat we're dealing with. So you start by locating the largest mast, which is always the mainmast.

From front to back: the first mast is called the foremast. The middle mast is called the mainmast. And the rear mast is called the mizzenmast.

What is the mizzenmast? The mizzenmast is the aft-most (rear) mast on a sailboat with three or more masts or the mast behind the mainmast on a boat with two masts. The mizzenmast carries the mizzen sail. On a two-masted boat, the mizzenmast is always (slightly) smaller than the mainmast. What is the purpose of the mizzen sail? The mizzen sail provides more sail area and flexibility in sail plan. It can be used as a big wind rudder, helping the sailor to have more control over the stern of the ship. It pushes the stern away from the wind and forces the bow in the opposite way. This may help to bring the bow into the wind when at anchor.

I always look at the number of masts first, because this is the easiest to spot. So to make this stuff more easy to understand, I've divided up the rig types based on the number of masts below.

Why would you want more masts and sail anyways?

Good question. The biggest advantage of two masts compared to one (let's say a ketch compared to a sloop), is that it allows you to use multiple smaller sails to get the same sail area. It also allows for shorter masts.

This means you reduce the stress on the rigging and the masts, which makes the ketch rig safer and less prone to wear and tear. It also doesn't capsize as quickly. So there are a couple of real advantages of a ketch rig over a sloop rig.

In the case of one mast, we look at the number of sails it carries.

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

Most single-masted boats are sloops, which means one mast with two sails (mainsail + headsail). The extra sail increases maneuverability. The mainsail gives you control over the stern, while the headsail gives you control over the bow.

Sailor tip: you steer a boat using its sails, not using its rudder.

The one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

The cat is the simplest sail plan and has one mast with one sail. It's easy to handle alone, so it's very popular as a fishing boat. Most (very) small sailboats are catboats, like the Sunfish, and many Laser varieties. But it has a limited sail area and doesn't give you the control and options you have with more sails.

The most common sail plan is the sloop. It has one mast and two sails: the main and headsail. Most sloops have a Bermuda mainsail. It's one of the best racing rigs because it's able to sail very close to the wind (also called 'weatherly'). It's one of the fastest rig types for upwind sailing.

It's a simple sail plan that allows for high performance, and you can sail it short-handed. That's why most sailboats you see today are (Bermuda) sloops.

This rig is also called the Marconi rig, and it was developed by a Dutch Bermudian (or a Bermudian Dutchman) - someone from Holland who lived on Bermuda.

A cutter has three or more sails. Usually, the sail plan looks a lot like the sloop, but it has three headsails instead of one. Naval cutters can carry up to 6 sails.

Cutters have larger sail area, so they are better in light air. The partition of the sail area into more smaller sails give you more control in heavier winds as well. Cutters are considered better for bluewater sailing than sloops (although sloops will do fine also). But the additional sails just give you a bit more to play with.

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the mainmast. If the extra mast is behind (aft of) the mainmast, it's called a mizzenmast . If it's in front of the mainmast, it's called a foremast .

If you look at a boat with two masts and it has a foremast, it's most likely either a schooner or a brig. It's easy to recognize a foremast: the foremast is smaller than the aft mast.

If the aft mast is smaller than the front mast, it is a sail plan with a mizzenmast. That means the extra mast has been placed at the back of the boat. In this case, the front mast isn't the foremast, but the mainmast. Boats with two masts that have a mizzenmast are most likely a yawl or ketch.

The two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Bilander - two masts (foremast). Has a lateen-rigged mainsail and square-rigged sails on the foremast and topsails.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. The main mast carries small lateen-rigged sail.

The yawl has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged and a mizzenmast. The mizzenmast is much shorter than the mainmast, and it doesn't carry a mainsail. The mizzenmast is located aft of the rudder and is mainly used to increase helm balance.

A ketch has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a mizzenmast. It's nearly as tall as the mainmast and carries a mainsail. Usually, the mainsails of the ketch are gaff-rigged, but there are Bermuda-rigged ketches too. The mizzenmast is located in front of the rudder instead of aft, as on the yawl.

The function of the ketch's mizzen sail is different from that of the yawl. It's actually used to drive the boat forward, and the mizzen sail, together with the headsail, are sufficient to sail the ketch. The mizzen sail on a yawl can't really drive the boat forward.

Schooners have two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a foremast which is generally smaller than the mainmast, but it does carry a mainsail. Schooners are also built with a lot more masts, up to seven (not anymore). The schooner's mainsails are generally gaff-rigged.

The schooner is easy to sail but not very fast. It handles easier than a sloop, except for upwind, and it's only because of better technology that sloops are now more popular than the schooner.

The brig has two masts. The foremast is always square-rigged. The mainmast can be square-rigged or is partially square-rigged. Some brigs carry a lateen mainsail on the mainmast, with square-rigged topsails.

Some variations on the brig are:

Brigantine - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries no square-rigged mainsail.

Hermaphrodite brig - also called half brig or schooner brig. Has two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries a gaff rig mainsail and topsail, making it half schooner.

Three-masted boats are mostly barques or schooners. Sometimes sail plans with two masts are used with more masts.

The three-masted rigs are:

• Barque - three masts, fore, and mainmast are square-rigged, the mizzenmast is usually gaff-rigged. All masts carry mainsail.
• Barquentine - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are fore-and-aft rigged. Also called the schooner barque.
• Polacca - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged.
• Xebec - three masts, all masts are lateen-rigged.

A barque has three or four masts. The fore and mainmast are square-rigged, and the mizzen fore-and-aft, usually gaff-rigged. Carries a mainsail on each mast, but the mainsail shape differs per mast (square or gaff). Barques were built with up to five masts. Four-masted barques were quite common.

Barques were a good alternative to full-rigged ships because they require a lot fewer sailors. But they were also slower. Very popular rig for ocean crossings, so a great rig for merchants who travel long distances and don't want 30 - 50 sailors to run their ship.

Barquentine

The barquentine usually has three masts. The foremast is square-rigged and the main and mizzenmast fore-and-aft. The rear masts are usually gaff-rigged.

Faster than a barque or a schooner, but the performance is worse than both.

The polacca or polacre rig has three masts with a square-rigged foremast. The main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged. Beautiful boat to see. Polacca literally means 'Polish' (it's Italian). It was a popular rig type in the Mediterranean in the 17th century. It looks like the xebec, which has three lateen-rigged masts.

Fun fact: polaccas were used by a Dutch sailor-turned-Turkish-pirate (called Murat Reis).

The xebec is a Mediterranean trading ship with three masts. All masts are lateen-rigged. I couldn't find any surviving xebecs, only models and paintings. So I guess this rig is outdated a long time.

A boat with three or more masts that all carry square-rigged sails is called a ship, a tall ship, or a full-rigged ship. So it's at this point that we start calling boats 'ships'. It has nothing to do with size but with the type of rigging.

More sails mean less stress on all of them. These ships use a lot of sails to distribute the forces, which reduces the stress on the rigging and the masts. Square sails mean double the sail area in comparison to triangular sails.

They are quite fast for their size, and they could outrun most sloops and schooners (schooners were relatively a lot heavier). The reason is that tall ships could be a lot longer than sloops, giving them a lot of extra hull speed. Sloops couldn't be as large because there weren't strong enough materials available. Try making a single triangular sail with a sail area of over 500 sq. ft. from linen.

So a lot of smaller sails made sense. You could have a large ship with a good maximum hull speed, without your sails ripping apart with every gust of wind.

But you need A LOT of sailors to sail a tall ship: about 30 sailors in total to ie. reef down sails and operate the ship. That's really a lot.

Tall ships are used nowadays for racing, with the popular tall ship races traveling the world. Every four years I go and check them out when they are at Harlingen (which is very close to where I live).

Check out the amazing ships in this video of the tall ship races last year near my hometown. (The event was organized by friends of mine).

What is the difference between a schooner and a sloop? A schooner has two masts, whereas the sloop only has one. The schooner carries more sails, with a mainsail on both masts. Also, sloops are usually Bermuda-rigged, whereas schooners are usually gaff-rigged. Most schooners also carry one or two additional headsails, in contrast to the single jib of the sloop.

What do you call a two-masted sailboat? A two-masted sailboat is most likely a yawl, ketch, schooner, or brig. To determine which one it is you have to locate the mainmast (the tallest). At the rear: schooner or brig. In front: yawl or ketch. Brigs have a square-rigged foremast, schooners don't. Ketches carry a mainsail on the rear mast; yawls don't.

What is a sloop rig? A sloop rig is a sailboat with one mast and two sails: a mainsail and headsail. It's a simple sail plan that handles well and offers good upwind performance. The sloop rig can be sailed shorthanded and is able to sail very close to the wind, making it very popular. Most recreational sailboats use a sloop rig.

What is the difference between a ketch and a yawl? The most important difference between a ketch and a yawl are the position and height of the mizzenmast. The mizzenmast on a yawl is located aft of the rudder, is shorter than the mainmast and doesn't carry a mainsail. On a ketch, it's nearly as long as the mainmast and carries a mainsail.

There are a wonderful lots of DIY changeability shows on the cable airwaves these days.

Rick the rigger

There are SO many errors on this site it really should be taken down.

First major mistake is to say you are no longer afraid of the sea.

One that truly gets up my nose is the term ‘fully’ rigged ship. It’s a FULL rigged ship!! Your mast names are the wrong way round and just because there may be 3 it doesn’t automatically mean the one in the middle is the main.

I could go on and totally destroy your over inflated but fragile ego but I won’t. All I will say is go learn a lot more before posting.

Shawn Buckles

Thanks for your feedback. If you like to point out anything more specific, please let me know and I will update the articles. I’ve changed fully-rigged to full-rigged ship - which is a typo on my part. I try to be as concise as I can, but, obviously, we all make mistakes every now and then. The great thing about the internet is that we can learn from each other and update our knowledge together.

If you want to write yourself and share your knowledge, please consider applying as a writer for my blog by clicking on the top banner.

Thanks, Shawn

Well, I feel that I’ve learned a bit from this. The information is clear and well laid out. Is it accurate? I can’t see anything at odds with the little I knew before, except that I understood a xebec has a square rigged centre mainmast, such as the Pelican ( https://www.adventureundersail.com/ )

Hi, Shawn, You forgot (failed) to mention another type of rig? The oldest type of rig known and still functions today JUNK RIG!

Why are so many of the comments here negative. I think it is wonderful to share knowledge and learn together. I knew a little about the subject (I’m an Aubrey-Maturin fan!) but still found this clarified some things for me. I can’t comment therefore on the accuracy of the article, but it seems clear to me that the spirit of the author is positive. We owe you some more bonhomme I suggest Shawn.

As they say in the Navy: “BZ” - for a good article.

Been reading S.M. Stirling and wanted to understand the ship types he references. Thank you, very helpful.

This site is an awesome starting point for anyone who would like to get an overview of the subject. I am gratefull to Shawn for sharing - Thanks & Kudos to you! If the negative reviewers want to get a deeper technical knowledge that is accurate to the n-th then go study the appropriate material. Contribute rather than destroy another’s good work. Well done Shawn. Great job!

Good stuff Shawn - very helpful. As a novice, it’s too confusing to figure out in bits and pieces. Thanks for laying it out.

First of all I have to say that Rick ‘the rigger’ is obviously the one with the “over inflated but fragile ego” and I laughed when you suggested he share his knowledge on your blog, well played!

As for the content it’s great, hope to read more soon!

Alec Lowenthal

Shawn, I have a painting of a Spanish vessel, two masted, with. Lateen sails on both masts and a jib. The mainsail is ahead of the main mast (fore) and the other is aft of the mizzen mast. Would this be what you call lugger rig? I have not seen a similar picture. Thanks, Alec.

Thank you for your article I found easy to read and understand, and more importantly remember, which emphasises the well written.. Pity about the negative comments, but love your proactive responses!

This vessel, “SEBASTIAN” out of Garrucha, Almería, España, was painted by Gustave Gillman in 1899.

Sorry, picture not accepted!

Thank you for a very informative article. I sail a bit and am always looking for more knowledge. I like the way you put forth your info and I feel if you can’t say anything positive, then that person should have their own blog or keep their opinions to their-self. I will be looking for more from you. I salute your way of dealing with negative comments.

Thank you for a great intro to sailing boats! I searched different sailboats because I use old sails tp make bags and wanted to learn the difference. Way more than I ever expected. Thanks for all the work put in to teach the rest of us.

Your description of a cutter is lacking, and your illustrations of “cutters” are actually cutter-rigged sloops. On a true cutter, the mast is moved further aft (with more than 40% of the ship forward of the mast). A sloop uses tension in the backstay to tension the luff of the foresail. The cutter can’t do this.

Also, a bermuda-rigged ketch will have a line running from the top of the mainmast to the top of the mizzenmast.

wow great guide to rig types! thanks

Interesting guide, however I am confused about the description of the brig. You say the main mast on a brig can have a lateen sail, but in your picture it looks like a gaff sail to me. How is it a lateen sail?

Hi Shawn, thank you for taking the time to share this information. It is clear and very helpful. I am new to sailing and thinking of buying my own blue water yacht. The information you have supplied is very useful. I still am seeking more information on performance and safety. Please keep up the good work. Best Regards

mickey fanelli

I’m starting to repair a model sailboat used in the lake I have three masts that have long been broken off and the sails need replacement. So my question is there a special relationship between the three masts I do have reminents of where the masts should go. they all broke off the boat along with the sails I can figure out where they go because of the old glue marks but it makes no sense. or does it really matter on a model thank you mickey

Cool, total novice here. I have learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing - the diagrams along with the text make it really easy to understand, especially for a beginner who hasn’t even stepped on a sailing boat.

Daryl Beatt

Thank you. Cleared up quite a few things for me. For example, I was familiar with the names “Xebecs” and “Polaccas” from recent reading about the Barbary War. I had gathered that the two Barbary types were better suited to sailing in the Med, but perhaps they were less able to be adaptable to military uses,(but one might assume that would be ok if one plans to board and fight, as opposed to fight a running gun duel). Specifically, the strangely one sided August 1, 1801 battle between the USS Enterprise under Lt. John Sterett and the Polacca cruiser Tripoli under Admiral Rais Mahomet Rous. On paper both ships seemed nearly equal in size, guns and crew, but pictures of the battle are confusing. While the Enterprise is usually rendered as the familiar schooner, the polacca Tripoli has been pictured in radically different ways. Thus the Wikipedia picture by Hoff in 1878 used to illustrate the Battle shows a Brig design for Tripoli, indicating 77 years later, polaccas were no longer common.

Lee Christiansen

I am curious as to what you would call a modern race boat with a fractional jib,not equipped for full masthead hoist? Thanks Lee

Thanks Guy: The information and pictures really eliminate a lot of the mystery of the terminology and the meanings. Also appreciate the insight of the handling idiosyncrasies “hand” (staff) requirements to manage a vessel for one that has not been on the water much. I long to spend significant time afloat, but have concern about the ability to handle a vessel due to advancing age. The Significant Other prefers to sit (in AC comfort)and be entertained by parties of cruise line employees. Thanks again for the information.

Gordon Smith

Your discussion made no mention of the galleon, a vessel with either square-rigged Fore and Main masts and a shorter lateen-rigged Mizzen, or, on larger galleons, square-rigged Fore and Main masts, with a lateen-rigged Mizzen and a lateen-rigged Bonaventure mast, both shorter than either the Fore or Main masts. Also, it was not uncommon for a galleon to hoist a square-rigged bowsprit topsail in addition to the usual square-rigged spritsail.

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

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What is a Yawl Sailboat? (All You Need to Know)

Are you looking to discover the unique and captivating world of yawl sailboats? Or perhaps you’re an experienced sailor hoping to learn more about yawls? In this comprehensive guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about yawl sailboats, from their fascinating history to the different types available and their common uses.

You’ll also learn the advantages of sailing a yawl, as well as the distinguishing characteristics that set them apart from other sailboats.

So, if you’re ready to learn about yawl sailboats, read on!

Table of Contents

Short Answer

A yawl sailboat is a two-masted sailing vessel with a mainmast that is taller than the mizzenmast, which is usually placed astern of the mainmast.

The sails on a yawl sailboat are usually a mainsail and mizzen sail, along with a jib or genoa.

Yawl sailboats are typically smaller than other types of sailboats, and they are often used for cruising and racing.

History of Yawl Sailboats

The yawl sailboat has a long and storied history, with its roots dating back to the 16th century.

During this time, yawl sailboats were often used for fishing and trading by coastal communities.

They were favored for their maneuverability and easy handling, which made them ideal for navigating shallow coastal waters.

By the 19th century, the yawl sailboat had become a popular choice for recreational sailors.

The vessel was known for its distinctive layout, which featured a mizzenmast located aft of the rudder post, and a mizzen sail that was smaller in size than the main sail.

This made the yawl sailboat quite easy to handle, even in strong winds.

By the early 20th century, the yawl sailboat had become a beloved vessel among recreational sailors, who prized its maneuverability and easy handling.

Although its popularity has waned in recent decades, the yawl sailboat is still appreciated by many sailors, who recognize its unique qualities and classic design.

Distinguishing Characteristics of Yawl Sailboats

A yawl sailboat is distinguished from other sailing vessels by its unique layout: the mizzenmast is situated aft of the rudder post, and the mizzen sail is typically smaller than the main sail. This particular design gives the vessel greater maneuverability, allowing it to turn quickly and tack more effectively than other sailboats. Additionally, the yawl sailboat has a broad beam, which helps keep the boat steady while providing ample room for crew and cargo.

The yawl sailboat is also known for its two masts, typically the mainmast and the mizzenmast.

The mainmast is typically the taller of the two and carries the majority of the sails weight and area.

The mizzenmast is typically shorter and carries a smaller sail.

This particular design helps balance the boat while sailing, allowing it to turn quickly and tack more effectively.

Another distinguishing characteristic of a yawl sailboat is its shallow draft.

This design allows the vessel to be used in shallow waters, such as harbors, estuaries, and shallow lakes, as well as in more open water.

The shallow draft also allows the boat to sail more easily in windy conditions, as the boat can more easily turn and tack in strong winds.

Finally, the yawl sailboat is known for its easy handling and maneuverability.

This makes it a favorite of recreational sailors, as it can be sailed with a small crew and is easy to handle and navigate.

Additionally, the yawl sailboat is well-suited for coastal cruising, as its shallow draft and maneuverability make it ideal for navigating narrow waterways and tight harbors.

Popularity of Yawl Sailboats

The Yawl sailboat has a long and storied history, dating back to the 16th century.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the yawl sailboat was particularly popular, with many sailors preferring this type of vessel for its easy handling and maneuverability.

The yawl sailboat was favored for its design and its ability to sail in both shallow and deep waters.

With its two masts, a mainmast and a mizzenmast, both carrying sails, and the mizzenmast being aft of the rudder post, the yawl sailboat was uniquely suited for sailing in shallow waters.

This design also allowed for the yawl sailboat to be highly maneuverable, allowing sailors to take advantage of the wind without having to change course.

The yawl sailboats smaller mizzen sail allowed for a greater degree of control when sailing in tight quarters.

Additionally, the yawl sailboat was favored for its ability to handle strong winds, making it an ideal vessel for sailing in both coastal and open sea waters.

The yawl sailboat was also favored for its speed.

With its design and two masts, it was able to sail faster than other vessels of its era.

As a result, the yawl sailboat became a popular choice for racing.

The yawl sailboat was also favored for its relatively low cost, when compared to other types of sailing vessels.

Today, the yawl sailboat is still a popular choice for sailors, both for racing and pleasure.

Though the design has changed over the years, with some boats having three masts and larger sails, the yawl sailboat remains a favorite among those who enjoy the open sea.

Advantages of Yawl Sailboats

The yawl sailboat has many advantages over other types of sailing vessels.

Firstly, its distinctive two-mast layout allows for a greater range of sail options, providing more flexibility in terms of sailing direction and speed.

With the mizzenmast placed aft of the rudder post, the yawl sailboat is more maneuverable, allowing it to make tighter turns and navigate shallow waters with ease.

Additionally, the size of the mizzen sail offers a greater range of sail options, allowing the sailor to adjust the sails depending on the conditions.

The yawl sailboat is also favored by sailors for its ease of handling.

With its two-mast layout, the yawl sailboat is easily controlled and requires less effort to maneuver than other types of sailing vessels.

This makes it ideal for sailing in coastal waters, where conditions can be unpredictable.

Furthermore, the yawl sailboat has a shallow draft, which allows it to navigate shallow waters and harbors with ease.

Finally, the yawl sailboat is an aesthetically pleasing vessel.

With its two masts, the yawl sailboat has a classic and timeless look.

Its distinctive profile makes it stand out among other types of sailing vessels, and its sails add a unique touch of elegance to the vessel.

This makes the yawl sailboat a popular choice among sailors who value aesthetics and style.

How to Sail a Yawl Sailboat

Sailing a yawl sailboat is not as difficult as it may seem.

To get started, youll need to familiarize yourself with the vessels layout and the type of sails it uses.

A yawl sailboat has two masts, a mainmast and a mizzenmast, both carrying sails.

The mizzenmast is aft of the rudder post and the mizzen sail is typically smaller in size than the main sail.

With a yawl sailboat, the mizzenmast is typically equipped with a boom and gaff, which are used to control the sail.

To sail a yawl sailboat, you will need to adjust the sails to catch the wind.

This requires knowledge of the points of sail, which are the various angles in which the wind is blowing in relation to the vessel.

Yawl sailboats are typically favored by sailors for their ease of handling and maneuverability.

As such, they are able to sail in a variety of conditions and angles.

When adjusting the sails, be sure to trim the sails in a way that is appropriate for the conditions.

In order to turn a yawl sailboat, you will need to adjust the sails and rudder to manipulate the wind.

To turn the boat to port, or left, you will need to tack the sails.

This involves turning the bow of the boat into the wind and adjusting the sails to catch the wind on the other side.

To turn the boat to starboard, or right, you will need to jibe the sails.

This involves turning the stern of the boat into the wind and adjusting the sails to catch the wind on the other side.

Once you have mastered the basics of sailing a yawl sailboat, you can begin to explore the many possibilities it offers.

Yawl sailboats are particularly well-suited for coastal voyages, as they are able to maneuver easily in tight spaces.

Many sailors also enjoy using yawl sailboats for racing, as they provide a unique challenge for experienced skippers.

With the right skills and knowledge, you can make the most of your yawl sailboat and explore new horizons.

Types of Yawl Sailboats

Yawl sailboats are a type of sailing vessel, traditionally with two masts, a mainmast and a mizzenmast, both carrying sails.

The mizzenmast is positioned aft of the rudder post, and the mizzen sail is typically smaller in size than the main sail.

Yawl sailboats have a long history, dating back to the 16th century, when they were first designed by Dutch and English ships.

They had their peak popularity in the 19th and early 20th centuries, as they were favored by sailors for their easy handling and maneuverability.

Yawl sailboats come in a variety of styles and sizes, from small dinghy-style vessels to large ocean-going yawls.

Smaller yawls are great for exploring coastal waters, while larger yawls are suitable for ocean voyages.

The traditional design of a yawl sailboat consists of two masts, a mainmast and a mizzenmast, both carrying sails.

The mizzenmast is positioned aft of the rudder post, while the mizzen sail is typically smaller in size than the main sail.

The main sail is typically triangular in shape, while the mizzen sail is typically rectangular in shape.

There are also variations on the traditional yawl sailboat design, such as schooners and ketches.

A schooner is a type of yawl sailboat with two or more masts, while a ketch is a type of yawl sailboat with two masts, with the mizzenmast further aft than the mainmast.

Yawl sailboats are favored by sailors for their easy handling and maneuverability.

They can navigate tight spaces and can turn on a dime, making them perfect for exploring coastal waters.

They are also great for short voyages, as they can be easily stored and transported.

Yawl sailboats are relatively affordable, making them accessible to a range of sailors.

Common Uses of Yawl Sailboats

Yawl sailboats have been used for centuries, and they remain popular today.

Traditionally, they have been used for fishing, cruising, and racing.

They are often used for short-distance coastal sailing, as they are easy to maneuver and have a shallow draft, allowing them to navigate shallow and narrow waterways.

Yawl sailboats are also favored by sailors for their stability and versatility.

With a larger mizzen sail and two independent sail plans, sailors can easily adjust the sails to suit their needs.

Yawl sailboats are also used for pleasure cruising, and they are often seen in marinas and sailing clubs.

With their classic design and easy-to-handle sails, yawl sailboats are a great choice for sailors of all skill levels.

Final Thoughts

It is clear that the yawl sailboat has a long and distinguished history, with its distinctive layout and easy handling making it a popular choice for sailors.

With its versatility, easy maneuverability, and wide range of uses, the yawl sailboat is an ideal vessel for coastal sailing.

If you are looking to experience the joys of sailing, a yawl sailboat is a great option to consider.

So if you’re interested in giving sailing a go, why not start with a yawl sailboat?

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Ketch vs Yawl: Comparing Two Classic Sailboat Rigs

14th mar 2023 by toi williams.

Ketches and yawls are popular types of sailboats helmed by sailors around the world. Both are two-masted vessels with divided rigs, meaning the main sail area is divided between the two masts. The taller mast is the main mast while the shorter mast located behind it is called the mizzen mast. In the ketch vs. yawl debate, knowing these mast terms is key to understanding the differences between the two types of sailboats.

So, how can you tell the difference between a yawl and a ketch? Read on to learn everything you need to know about these types of sailboats.

What Is a Ketch?

The easiest way to tell a ketch and a yawl apart is by looking at the location of the mizzen mast. On a ketch, the mizzen mast is in front of the rudder post. The rudder post is where the front part of the rudder attaches to the underside of the boat. On boats steered with a tiller, the rudder post is typically located directly below the end of the tiller handle.

On ketch sailboats , the mizzen mast is shorter than the main mast. These sailboats can have triangular or square rigs, based on the specific design and age of the boat. With the sail area of a ketch split into two parts, the masts can be shorter than that of a single mast ship, so the load on each mast is less. Ketches often have Bermuda sails on both masts, although some modern ketches have gaff sails or both a gaff sail and a Bermuda sail. A ketch that has two or more jibs is called a cutter ketch.

Photo credit: Ronnie Robertson

What Is a Yawl?

A yawl can easily be mistaken for a ketch due to their similar sail arrangements. However, on a yawl, the position and size of the mizzen mast is different. For a yawl, the mizzen mast is much smaller than the one on a ketch and is located far behind the rudder post. This makes the sail area of the mizzen sail on a yawl smaller as well. 

The mizzen mast on a yawl balances the sail plan, and the mizzen sail is trimmed for balance. Easing the mizzen sail will make it less effective while over-trimming the mizzen sail will make it more effective. Because the wind force is behind the rudder, the physics of yawl vs. ketch sailing can be very different. Many yawl owners use the yawl’s mizzen sail as a wind rudder when sailing and as a stabilizer when anchoring.

Advantages of a Ketch

Ketches are widely recognized as very versatile sailboats that are highly controllable. Each of the three sails can be adjusted independently for better performance for any given wind condition. The multiple sail configurations achievable make ketches suitable boats for a variety of voyages including day sailing, solo sailing, and sailing in strong winds. 

The shorter masts and smaller sails make a ketch easier to handle than larger sailboats. It is also easier to maneuver under bridges without drastically reducing speed. The ketch’s main sail and mizzen sail can work together without the mizzen sail disturbing the main sail. Ketch rigs also have a version of self-steering, keeping the boat tracking on a straight course without constant rudder input.

For the last century, ketches have primarily been used as recreational and cruising boats. A simple cruising ketch is typically made of fiberglass, and its interior accommodations are spacious, although the cockpit space is limited because of both the mizzen mast and the rigging. A ketch usually has a bit more power than a yawl due to its larger mizzen sail.

Advantages of a Yawl

Like a ketch, a yawl is considered to be a very stable boat style that performs well in strong winds. Both can have their sails placed in multiple configurations depending on the weather conditions, making them a good selection for a wide range of sailing activities. Because the main sail is smaller and more manageable, yawls are popular with single-handed sailors. They also like that the smaller mizzen sail can be trimmed to stay on a course easily or lowered when winds pick up to reduce sail area.

Another advantage for a yawl vs. ketch is that a yawl's mizzen mast is far enough aft for the mizzen sail to really affect the position of the stern. A yawl's mizzen sail can be used to help turn the boat quickly or slow it down while sailing. It is also easy to balance against a head sail, letting sailors navigate in strong winds with the main sail furled.

For boaters interested in blue water cruising , a yawl is often the preferable option. In addition to its stability in open water, setting the mizzen sail at a particular wind angle results in reliable wind steering. If the boat veers from the course you have set it on, the mizzen sail will take the wind and push the stern back to the correct course automatically. This set wind angle can be held for long periods without help, freeing you for other tasks. 

At Rightboat, we have a wide selection of ketches and yawls in a variety of styles and sizes to fit any sailor's boating needs. You can find the right sailboat for your family and your budget by using the handy filtering tools on our website to narrow your results by size, price, and an assortment of other features. You can also search by location to see which boats we have available nearby. Our collection of new and used sailboats for sale adds new vessels frequently. Come and take a look at what we have to offer.

This article was most recently updated by John Burnham.

Written By: Toi Williams

More from: Toi Williams

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• Sailboat Reviews

Here's a skinny little pocket cruiser for two that's back in production after a three-year hiatus. She is quick on a reach but, predictably, not very adept at upwind sailing.

When she was introduced in 1983, the Rob Roy 23 captured all the popularity that Ron Johnson, her Florida builder, could handle. Marine Concepts, Johnson’s small custom shop, built and sold 85 in less than 10 years. The Rob Roy was then retired in favor of Johnson’s Sea Pearls (Sea Pearl 21, Sea Pearl Tri-21, and Sea Pearl 28.)

Now the little cruiser is back, with the first new ones being launched in 1998, for “about what the last one we built cost—around $26,000 complete,” Johnson said when we talked to him in late 1997.

We wondered what sort of 23-footer could command that price. In 1983, it was the only trailerable canoe-stern yawl in town. Its appeal, however, goes beyond novelty. This is a boat with character: She looks salty; sails well with working sails alone; and she provides accommodations for two. Simplicity, from a space-saving centerboard to a “hardened” kick-up rudder, from an unstayed mizzen mast to a tabernacle-mounted mainmast, is a watchword. The Rob Roy can be launched at a ramp and is easily beached due to its 1′ 7″ draft with the board up. Owners have cruised her for weeks at a time and routinely cross the Gulf Stream and other formidable chunks of open water.

On the other hand, sitting headroom and moderate beam limit the space below, even for a pocket cruiser. There’s no shortage of boats in her size range with bigger cockpits. The canoe stern steals space, and an outboard well has its pros and cons.

To answer the question of her popularity, one must look deeper. As is our practice at Practica Sailor , we asked the owners about trailering ease, outfitting, durability and her woeful forays into PHRF racing.

As we learned, the Rob Roy not only created a minor buying frenzy when she appeared, it won a group of vocal and committed owners.

“This is THE boat,” said one owner. “I don’t want anything bigger and I can’t imagine anything better.”

Designed by Ted Brewer, the Rob Roy was inspired by the turn-of-the-century adventures of John MacGregor. His little 20-foot canoe yawl was so portable that he carted her aboard trains, yet she was tough enough to let him leave the protection of the River Humber and explore the British Isles from end to end. MacGregor not only named his freedom-giving yawl after his famous ancestor, he also inspired the Humber Yawl Society of which designer Ted Brewer is a member.

“I admire those boats and their voyages,” Brewer told us. “Lord Baden-Powell, who started the Boy Scouts, was president of the group early on. The Humber yawls were all canoe-sterned with plumb ends. They got bigger than the original Rob Roy, up to 24 or 26 feet. They had gaff or gunter rigs. My Rob Roy design owes a lot to their spirit but not a great deal to their specifics.”

Brewer’s career began in the late 1950’s. He’s worked on both the East Coast and West Coast (he now practices in Lyman, Washington), and his designs range from race boats such as Storm and American Eagle to cruising boats like the Panoceanic 46 and Quickstep 24.

“With the Rob Roy,” he said, “I was trying to keep the rig manageable and still have her sail well, to give her enough beam to stand on her feet but not so much that she’d be slow, to stretch out her design waterline, build in a lot of form stability, and still have her look handsome. Design is always a series of tradeoffs. In a boat of this size that’s especially true. The time that I spent in the navy sailing 26-foot open whale boats showed up in the design, too. Early in the design process I decided that I very much wanted one of these boats for myself. That tends to make you pay a particular kind of attention.”

What he came up with is hardly your average boat, but she is nevertheless a boat that addresses the needs of the average sailor. The 6′ 6″ cockpit seats are straight and comfortable enough to take a bit of the curse off having only two berths below, but the Rob Roy 23 is essentially geared to support two adults, and only two. That decision had its greatest impact on the interior arrangement, but other aspects of the design—like cockpit size, design displacement, and sail plan—reflect it, too.

One owner said, “I would have to rate the design as first rate, especially the double-ended look, the centerboard raising into the keel, the deep cockpit, the sail leads and hardware arrangements.”

Construction

The original Rob Roys were built of fiberglass with balsa coring in hull and deck. Johnson now builds his standard Sea Pearls and his new Rob Roy with foam cores. He says that the new foams have improved resistance to water migration and superior temperature and noise insulation.

“But,” he said, “we’re essentially a custom shop and the customer can get whatever type of core he wants.” One owner reported that the core beneath the mast step was squashed when he tightened his rig. “That sort of thing should never happen, but it did,” Johnson admitted. “We fixed it, but whether the core is foam or balsa a high-compression spot like that should always be solid glass, and in the Rob Roy, it is.” Despite that experience (or maybe because of Johnson’s handling of the problem), the owner in question rates the construction and finish of his Rob Roy as “excellent” and added, “I do not know of trailerable boat that I’d rather have.”

“We use the best gelcoats,” Johnson said. “We’ve found antique colors that don’t absorb heat or radiate much glare. ‘White sails’ is our standard deck color or for an additional $280 you can have a two-tone deck where the non-skid portions are done in ‘Whalebone’.” Hull colors are a no-cost option. Behind the gelcoat comes a barrier coat of vinylester resin. We use Stitchmat (a fabric made by stitching layers of mat together on the bias) to prevent print through. The remaining hand-laid rovings that make up the laminate are wetted out with polyester resin. The Rob Roy has extra layers of rovings in the keel and trailer impact areas.”

There is a small interior glass unit, very similar to what, in larger form, might be called an interior pan. It forms part of the sole and locates the bulkheads and furniture. It’s not structural. The bulkheads and furniture are double-tabbed to the hull. The bulkheads and furniture are faced with teak. Trim is solid teak. The archway in the central bulkhead is ringed with teak and is supported by solid pieces of teak that reach to the keel.

“You couldn’t build boats like the Rob Roy anymore,” one owner said. “The wood and the finish below would make it too expensive.”

“Marine Concepts provides excellent quality in basic construction. No problems with blisters after 12 years,” reported another.

One construction feature, though, that has been changed with the new Rob Roy is the make-up of both the centerboard and the rudderblade. Said Johnson, “The old centerboard was an aluminum plate and the old rudder was a sandwich with an aluminum plate in the middle. Boats that were kept in the water experienced electrolytic activity. due to the stainless steel weldment at the bottom of the rudder shaft. Owners can and should protect those blades with zincs if they keep the boat at the dock or mooring instead of on a trailer.”

The original board was hung from a pivot pin assembly that fits in the forward end of the centerboard slot but remains external to the hull so it won’t cause leaks but will allow the board to be removed for repair or even cleaning. The original board was shaped like an “L” lying on its back. The foot (or short side) of the “L” is housed in an abbreviated trunk, but forward of the companionway the remainder (or long side) of the board is housed entirely below the sole. You control the board via a simple, one-part tackle from its uppermost after- corner. The configuration leaves the saloon free from an obtrusive trunk.

The kick-up rudder connects to an angled stainless shaft. The shaft works well without bearings and has proven to be durable. The point where the blade joins it, however, seems thin and vulnerable. The joint is (just) protected by the keel in front of it. Neither Johnson nor Brewer has heard of a rudder being damaged. It appears as though a grounding in reverse or even maximum rudder torque might change that box score, but then steering loads on a moderately rigged 23-footer aren’t that extreme.

The blades on the new boat are made of glass. The new board probably will have a foil-shape.

The hull/deck joint has changed. The first 85 boats were built with an inward-turned flange molded into the hull. Johnson has now gone to an outward-turned flange “because it’s easier to finish off and make leak-proof.” He will still use 3M 5200 and mechanical fasteners to make the joint and will still cover it with a solid caprail. “The Rob Roy record on deck leaks is excellent,” he said, and the owners surveyed agree.

One owner had a persistent problem with a companionway leak. “It appears, after much back and forth, that there was no bedding in the original joint,” Johnson told us. “We fixed the problem but it cost me time and money to get it sorted out.”

During Rob Roy’s life, her bowsprit and boomkin have usually been 2″ x 6″ and 2″x 4″ balks of teak respectively. “I’ve built beefier ones for people that wanted them,” Johnson said, “but I never quite saw why.” Johnson remembers. Several owners expressed the wish for a detachable bow sprit to make trailering simpler and to reduce her “marina length” from a length overall of 28′ 8″ to her on deck length of 22′ 8″. “I used to do that,” Johnson recalled. “We’ve simplified by making the spars permanent, but if an owner wanted removable ones it’s easy to do.”

The Rob Roy 23 carries 900 lbs. of ballast (including the weight of the centerboard). The shallow keel is filled on either side of the centerboard trunk with small chunks of lead held in place with casting resin. A small sump is left in the after end of the keel.

“I must admit that I designed the Rob Roy accommodations for myself,” Brewer said.

The head is forward and benefits in terms of room and privacy. It’s not ideal for use at sea, however. An optional plan moves the head to port and inserts a child’s berth to starboard. Aft of the single bulkhead is the galley—stove to port, sink to starboard. Opening portlights provide ventilation. The saloon consists of settee berths that extend under the cockpit.

They are low enough and the house sides are wide enough to make for comfortable, “no-slouch” seating throughout. The shelves outboard of the berths are convenient but minimal and would benefit from taller fiddles. Four cockpit lockers and a raft compartment below the cockpit sole make on-deck stowage one of the boat’s strongest suits. Below, the majority of stowage is forward.

The centerboard trunk is capped with solid teak and extends just a foot into the interior from the companionway. “One or two can live aboard for one or two weeks” was the refrain from owners. “Having the galley forward took some getting used to, but now I like it,” said one.

Freshwater capacity is 14.5 gallons and there is a holding tank forward.

The berths convert, via an insert, into a platform double. “The boat is unparalleled for two—good bed, good head, great lighting,” said an owner after cruising the Rob Roy (his seventh boat) for five years.

Marine Concepts offers a trailer with the Rob Roy that costs $2,850. It comes with dual axles and is made of galvanized steel. It has 14″ wheels, surge brakes, bearing buddies, a tongue jack, and a spare tire. One owner figured his towing weight to be “about 4,200 lbs.” Over the years, some owners have mentioned trailer problems, to which Johnson said that he has changed vendors.

The standard trailer comes with custom-made beds spaced and angled to suit the boat. Given the boat’s draft, the trailer must be at least partially submerged—weight placement is critical to an easy retrieval as well as a comfortable tow. No owners have yet nominated trailering as a highlight of their Rob Roy experience.

Performance

The Rob Roy 23 is built to carry an 8-hp. Honda 4-stroke outboard in a well. (Some boats have been modified to accept a saildrive, an inboard powerhead, either gas or diesel, on a fixed vertical drive unit.) The outboard remains fixed in the well when the boat is under sail, so propeller drag is greater than if it were on a bracket or retractable. The convenience of having power on demand and the efficiency of a propeller that is mounted where it will provide good thrust even while the boat is pitching in head seas somewhat offsets the loss in sailing performance. The motor is mounted just aft of the keel which helps to diminish its parasitic drag under sail but presents the possibility of cavitation from running in aerated water under some powering conditions. The exhaust ports built into the well have proven satisfactory but many owners have increased the standard air intake (by replacing the solid well cover with a grating or adding cowl vents or cutting holes for ducts in the coaming) to relieve the tendency of the outboard to starve under load.

There is room for two 6-gallon fuel tanks in cockpit lockers.

Yawls are a rarity on the new boat market but the Rob Roy isn’t totally alone. Garry Hoyt recently introduced the Alerion Express 36 with a yawl rig. By adding a mizzen, Brewer increased the Rob Roy’s sail plan to 255 square feet. That results in a snappy sail area/displacement ratio of 20.8. Perhaps that is the root of a PHRF rating for the boat that has caused the few owners who have raced her to bemoan the experience. That sail area works fine on a reach, but upwind any mizzen, especially one set as close to the main as the Rob Roy’s, suffers from mainsail backwind. Downwind the mizzen works okay but it steals air from the main. It’s not surprising that racing yawls went out with black and white TV.

Balance, versatility, and small, easily managed sails are the virtues of the yawl rig, and the Rob Roy enjoys them all. On the flip side, this sail plan prevents the boat from accelerating as fast or developing as much horsepower as she might with the same area of sail divided into two larger units—or even lumped into one. Brewer offset this disadvantage in a number of ways. He kept the waterline beam on the slim side, cut back the forefoot, and faired the waterlines to make the hull very easily driven. The Rob Roy is a relatively light boat, even with two adults aboard. She has a minimum of wetted surface, especially with the board up. These factors make her a very respectable light air performer.

Sailing in a Buzzard’s Bay sou’wester cycling from 16 to 20 knots we saw the Rob Roy at her best. With three large men sitting to weather she cut through the chop heading upwind without dipping her rail or spilling wind from her sails. Dousing the mizzen helped her stand a bit straighter, but when we set it again it was hard to tell what difference it made. We rolled it around its spar and left it furled. Not as close-winded as sharper, deeper boats might be in waves, she picked up markedly when we cracked her off to 38° to 40°. We tacked consistently through 90°. It’s true that when you reef the center of effort moves forward and we found it nice to balance the boat by re-setting the mizzen. Across the wind we tried jib and mizzen alone and were rewarded with bursts approaching its 6- knot hull speed. Even with the wind near the top of its range we handled all sails by hand and found no need to crank on the winches. One owner described his boat as “extremely seaworthy,” noting that “She’ll lay over but she picks up stability as she goes.”

Hard bilges give the boat good initial stability. The flared hull, efficiently placed ballast and moderate sail plan all make her progressively stiffer as she heels. She’s a pleasing boat to sail in a breeze—responsive yet resistant. The helm is light and by playing with the centerboard and mizzen you can get the boat to steer herself on most points of sail. She’s dry for a boat of this size and has a predictable and deliberate motion even in a chop. There isn’t much room for that third person in the cockpit, however.

Conclusions

The Rob Roy has an appealing look all her own and some features that make good sense in a pocket cruiser. Limited accommodations means maximum space for two persons and keeps both stowage and performance capabilities from being overloaded. Her small cockpit is fine in a seaway and adequate for two but cramps her versatility as a daysailer. The yawl rig is simple and provides a built-in riding sail and virtual steer-by-the-sails control. She doesn’t have enough working sail area to be quick in light or even moderate air, but she can be sailed without winches and she handles heavy weather very well.

Marine Concepts works hard to keep its owners happy, but don’t look to Ron Johnson for much innovation. He seems almost the antithesis of Stan Spitzer, whose Rhodes 22 we reviewed in the August 1 issue. “He hates gadgets,” one owner said of Johnson. He builds conservative boats and has shown that he stands behind them. The Rob Roy’s design wrinkles, construction, and outfitting have all helped her become one of the few “offshore trailerables” available.

Price is a bit more than what Johnson predicted: $28,000, which includes sails, portable toilet and 8-hp. Honda four-stroke outboard. For those interested in a used model, the 1983, which originally sold for $16,000, is worth just $5,650-$6,500 today. A 1988 model, according to the BUC Research Used BoatPrice Guide , goes for $11,600-$13,200.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

where can we get detailed schematics of Rob Roy Yawl ?

Yes, I’ve looked everywhere online for some kind of schematic of my 1987 Rob Roy 23’. I even tried to contact Ted Brewer the designer, his web page says you can get owner sets for production boats. The phone number isn’t good and email is full.

I may be able to help. I bought a 1987 Rob Roy 23 last August. It’s now in winter storage, but I’ve been looking thru a box of paper work that came with the boat. It appears to be a complete set of plans & specifications.

Hey Brad, sorry i didnt get back with you sooner. I felt like this wouldnot be answeredi guess. I just subscribed to practical sailor and found your response. So sorry to hear Ted Brewer passed. Thank you for that information. Would love to get copy of Rob Roy schematic! Do you raise your mast by hand or use mechanisms. Everyone says we should be able to just walk the mast up usinf rolling furler jib as leverage. It seems risky to me?

Btw… Ted Brewer passed away last year. There was a nice tribute to him in Good Old Boat magazine.

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March / April Issue No. 297  Preview Now

From Thomas Clapham and the Roslyn Yawl

By reuel parker.

The author’s Yawl 43 Sail Plan.

During my research on sharpies, many years ago, I was intrigued by the boats of a Long Island designer/builder named Thomas Clapham. In the late 1870s, Clapham developed a “new” hull shape he called the “nonpareil sharpie.” While traditional sharpies are flat-bottomed, a handful of innovative designers were experimenting with different hull shapes while retaining other sharpie qualities, which included a narrow beam-to-length ratio, light displacement and flaring topsides planking. Clapham’s contribution was the V-bottom, and he is often considered to be the “father of the V-bottom boat.” And thereby one of the fathers of the modern American sailing yacht, along with N.G. Herreshoff and Ralph Monroe.

While he didn’t invent the V-bottom (skipjacks, which had been around since the 1870s were basically V-bottomed), he developed it in a new direction by incorporating it with the sharpie hullform. Skipjacks are very beamy, with very little deadrise, broad sterns and very little V in their bows. They are not particularly seaworthy, and are not self-righting (they are workboats). Clapham’s “nonpareil” hulls exhibited considerably more deadrise, especially forward, were narrow and light, with the option of an external ballast keel (almost unknown in the 1890s). With outside ballast, Clapham’s designs were considered “uncapsizable.” At least one dramatic rescue of a wreck during a full gale was made by a Clapham sharpie in 1879, when no other vessel could manage it!

Lines for Clapham’s “Nonpareil Sharpie” MINOCQUA—1892.

The drawings above and below were traced from the originals by maritime historian Howard Chapelle. Clapham’s sail plan for his new hull was powerful, and is strange to the modern eye—he called it the “Roslyn Yawl,” after his village on the north shore of Long Island, NY.

Clapham’s “Roslyn Yawl” sail plan for MINOCQUA

Clapham incorporated the “sliding gunter” rig for MINOCQUA’s mains’l, combined with an enormous boomed “jumbo jib” on a very long bowsprit, and a large yawl mizzen, with all sails self-tending. Clapham’s yawl-rigged V-bottom sharpies were very fast sailors, and were soon banned from racing, as nothing could catch them!

When I wrote The Sharpie Book , back in the early 1990s, I included the above drawings, but never developed the design for construction in cold-molded plywood, as I did for all the other historic sharpies in the book. Over the years, numerous readers asked me to complete building plans for MINOCQUA, and I finally got around to doing so in early 2004. I made a few minor modifications to the hull, cabin, interior and sail plan, and redrew them to a large scale, with construction drawings, notes, and details for building the boat.

The design continued to intrigue me, to such a degree that I re-drew the design again in 2007. I increased her length to 41-feet, and drew an optional new sail plan incorporating a gaff mains’l, with smaller jib and mizzen. The new design has 5′ 10″ standing headroom, and a more accommodating interior—adequate for live-aboard cruising. I included this design in my “Maxi-Trailerable” portfolio, as her beam is 10’, and her displacement is under 13,000 lbs, allowing the use of a standard 40’ three-axle trailer.

Then, in late 2014, while thinking about a version of MINOCQUA for myself (as a sailing retirement home), I tackled the design yet again. This time I gave her a moderate spoon bow, an optional pilothouse layout, a Marconi yawl sail plan, and a more elaborate interior plan with accommodations for five.

I mulled the new design over for weeks, and decided that she would stand up better to the higher-aspect sail plan if the hull carried more beam. Hence I further modified the hull, interior, cockpit, cabin and sail plan, and arrived at a new design inspired by MINOCQUA, but evolved into a new and different final result.

The Yawl 43 Plan & Inboard Profile

I increased the beam-to-length ratio, but I also modified the beam-waterline to beam-deck ratio, which slightly decreased the topsides flare. I flattened the run (lower quarter-beam buttock angle), flattened the deadrise slightly, increased displacement, and shortened the stern overhang by one foot. I also swept the sheer up aft slightly. I modified my fairly large Marconi yawl rig, with self-tending working sails plus light-air sails consisting of a jib tops’l and mizzen stays’l. The new design has a “Sail Area to Displacement Ratio” of 18.45 for working sails, and 24.81 including light air sails. With her increased beam and displacement, she will stand up very well to this higher sail plan, will be fast and weatherly for a centerboard boat, and will be very fast off the wind.

Her large pilothouse/cockpit provides protection from rain, spray and sun, with lots of room for above-deck living, including a large drop-leaf table. Her three-cylinder Yanmar, rated at 35 hp, will nearly give her motorsailer capabilities, with a comfortable cruising speed under power of eight knots or more (her hull speed is eight knots). She will easily exceed that under sail.

I designed optimized NACA 0009 foil-shapes for her rudder and centerboard, incorporating an end-plate for the rudder. I re-designed her keel to a hollow box shape, after the Sea Bright skiff designs from New Jersey, allowing lead ballast to be placed as low as if it were external, without the complications inherent in bolting an external ballast box to the hull.

Construction Section at bulkhead #3.

The hull is designed for simple marine plywood construction, covered with 4-oz Xynole-polyester fabric (two layers below the boot top). Decks are plywood over sawn beams, with a coachroof option of foam-core construction. Masts use a “new” construction method I developed and wrote about in Blog #14 . Tanks are integral, and uncommonly large.

Additional Construction Sections.

Because the new hull can support the schooner rig, I also designed a Marconi stays’l schooner sail plan. As much as I love schooners, I find myself leaning towards the yawl.

Those of you who know maritime history will see the similarity of this design to the Sea Bird Yawl, an early 20th century design which evolved directly from Clapham’s work. In 1911 Thomas Day (founder of The Rudder magazine) sailed his 25-foot SEA BIRD across the Atlantic. Today, many people are critical of the yawl rig, and my own opinion is that they may be missing the point. Before the age of motors, when a single-handed sailor was hit by strong winds, he simply dropped and furled the mains’l. The yawl rig is weatherly and perfectly balanced under “jib and jigger.” The central location of the mains’l makes it easier and safer to furl—or to reef—than a schooner, cutter or sloop mains’l. Off the wind, the yawl rig performs very well under mains’l alone.

Clapham’s designs were famous for sailing dry, stiff and fast—in all weather conditions. The innovation of employing a deep “V” forward prevented pounding—the nemesis of flat-bottomed hulls. Flaring topsides and overhanging sterns provided reserve buoyancy and made for dry sailing. Clapham drew “perfectly fair segmental rockering” into his hull lines, using straight-grained pine battens, and the perfect diagonal line formed by the sweep of the chine minimized resistance and turbulence when heeled under sail, as well as improving tracking ability (the chine acts like a second keel). He was also one of the first yacht designers to make and test models.

So… will this design be my seventh cruising sailboat? My floating retirement home? Only time will tell. What do you think?

4/6/2015, Saint Lucie Village, Florida

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Lessons of the BOUNTY

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From the community.

'66 Century Resorter 17

Mahogany inboard. New varnish & bottom paint. Newish 383 (500-hp). 50 mph. New upholstery.

1959 THOMPSON 17’ RUNABOUT – PRICED TO SELL!

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Partial restoration. Has rare Edson oscillating (worm) steering system.

Boat Profile

Ptarmigan 17

A Selway Fisher pocket cruiser

From Issue   December 2021

Y ears ago, I had built and sailed a 14′ flat-bottomed skiff, but the time had come for something with more capacity, capability, and comfort. A few times my wife Ramona and I had been caught in rough conditions that made me feel more than a bit uncomfortable, and I didn’t feel confident heading out to distant shores with the little boat. And sleeping under a tented boom, well, I’d had enough of that. Still, it was nice to have a boat I could tow home and store in the garage where I could keep it in good repair.

Selway Fisher’s Ptarmigan 17, as drawn, met most of my needs and could be adapted to suit the rest. The options detailed in the plans took care of my wants, and the design appears to accommodate amateur builders with a range of skills and requirements. There are drawings for both stitch-and-tape and glued-plywood lapstrake construction. You can also choose between a simple catboat rig and a yawl rig. With all the options for customization, I wouldn’t be surprised to see 10 different boats built from the same set of Ptarmigan 17 plans.

The glued-plywood lapstrake construction accentuates the hull’s curves. Stitch-and-tape construction without the laps is an option included in the plans.

The boat’s optional yawl rig had piqued my interest. I liked the idea of sailing under a balanced helm if the conditions got too serious, and I thought that the smaller mainmast on the yawl rig would be a bit lighter to lift. The combination tabernacle-equipped mainmast, small cabin, and ease of trailering led me to finally choose this design.

The building package comes with seven sheets of construction plans and a 14-page booklet of instructions. Dimensions are metric. A concise building schedule outlines each step of the build with recommendations on the choice of plywood, instructions on using epoxy, and what fastenings to use. There’s a section on how to lay out and draw the side panels on the plywood, and how to draw curved elements using a grid pattern. Measured drawings for the molds, stitch-and-tape side panels, bottom panel, and stem are clear and easy to follow. You do not need to do any lofting to build this boat. There are detailed drawings and instructions on stitching and filleting. The plans are complete with details for building sub-components such as rudder, centerboard and trunk, and the tabernacle. The plans are cross-referenced with the instruction booklet and provide the recommended scantlings.

There are instructions for building an outboard well or a transom cutout. All specifications for the standing and running rigging are listed. For builders interested in making their own sails, there’s even a reference to a Selway publication on that topic. The booklet is light on details for the four-strake, glued-lap plywood version; however, there are several good books available on the topic.

Both of the Ptarmigan 17’s sail rigs are gaff-rigged. The single-mast catboat rig carries a sail area of 139 sq ft and includes the dimensions for an optional 24-sq-ft jib. The yawl rig’s total sail area is a little smaller at 135 sq ft, with a main of 79 sq ft, a jib of 36 sq ft, and a leg-o’-mutton mizzen of 20 sq ft. There are two reefpoints drawn on the mainsails. With the yawl rig you can douse the mainsail in high winds and sail with a balanced helm under jib and mizzen. The yawl—with bowsprit and boomkin —is almost 23′ in sparred length. The mizzen is self-tending and only requires attention when coming off the wind. The plans do not specifically address tackle, but we made our own blocks in keeping with the overall look and feel of the boat. There are several good articles on making your own blocks in various publications.

I found the plans for this boat detailed, complete, and accurate, and while a few questions did arise, they were quickly answered via email. When I started this build, I found many ways of keeping safe and saving time; the project took me five months of full-time effort.

T he boat tows well behind an SUV or pickup truck, and the trailer does not require brakes for the boat’s 1,300 lbs. The flat bottom and shallow 6″ keel help keep the weight low in the boat. For trailering, I keep the bowsprit attached and secure the mast in a cross-framed 2×4 support; the gaff, boom, and mizzen are supported and strapped to the frame and the forward ends pass through the companionway.

The yawl rig has an 18.9 sq ft mizzen, a 78.8 sq ft main, and a 36.6 sq ft headsail.

With some practice, the yawl can be rigged and ready to go in about 20–25 minutes. It saves time to tag the rigging to help remember where the stays go and in what order they go on. The mast is lifted with its three stays, three halyards, and the topping lift set in place. The foot of the mast is secured in the tabernacle. Lifting the rigged mast requires some effort but is manageable and made easier with the help of someone pulling on the headstay. I secure the jaws of both the gaff and the boom using 1/8″ braided nylon cord with several parrel beads threaded on. I lace on the sails, add the rudder and motor, take off the securing straps, and I’m set to launch. When hauling out at the ramp, I have a 2,000-lb single-speed hand-operated winch that handles the boat with ease. The boat always seems to attract a crowd filled with compliments, comments, and questions.

The plans call for open slats for the cockpit seating and sole. The builder’s modification to plywood enclosures provides convenient storage.

The 5′x 6′ cockpit will accommodate four but is most comfortable with one or two. With two, there’s plenty of room to hoist the sails and move around when coming about. The helmsman has a clear view forward of the small jib over the cabin. The mainsail is high enough off the cabin roof to have a clear view to port and starboard. All sheets and halyards are led aft into the cockpit and can be easily handled without the need for winches. The throat and peak halyards need a hefty tug. The plans call for 7mm (3/8″) halyards, which I find easy on the hands. The 65″ x 25″ footwell is 17″ deep. The trunk is 4″ wide and its cap is 12″ above the cockpit sole. It extends into the footwell 20″ and passes through the main bulkhead to within a foot of the forepeak bulkhead. The steel centerboard is raised and lowered with the help of a worm-gear winch that is operated from the cockpit. With the board down, the boat draws 3-1/2′.

The cabin has bunks for two. The centerboard trunk divides the footwell between them.

The cabin interior is 6-1/2′ x 5-1/2′ and is 52″ high at the crown. There are two bunks that run the length of the cabin and are 26″ at their widest. For sitting there is good headroom and ample legroom in the footwell between the bunks. Storage compartments are built into the underside of each bunk. It’s a simple interior, but it keeps you dry. The yawl cabin has a support post under the tabernacle that is about 16″ abaft the forepeak bulkhead. The tabernacle in the catboat version is supported by the forepeak bulkhead. The plans call for a sliding plywood hatch over the companionway, but I chose to make mine with a plexiglass top for added light in the cabin. There are two 12″ x 16″ windows on the cabin sides. If you wish to build a self-righting boat, the instruction booklet calls for adding buoyancy under the cockpit benches and forward of the forepeak bulkhead. An additional 160 lbs of lead can be bolted to the floor as extra ballast.

The boat’s 1,300-lb weight gives the feeling of stability—it is not tippy when you step aboard—and will carry through when tacking in light air. The Ptarmigan 17 was designed for inland lakes, estuaries, and coastal areas, and I have never felt uncomfortable in these waters. Adding one or two larger sails both on the jib and mizzen would be nice to have for sailing downwind and in lighter wind conditions. In windy conditions, the first reef goes in when the winds approach 20 knots. Anything above this and the main is doused and tied off. Even in these conditions the boat has never left me feeling unsafe; it feels stable and there is no need to put the rail in the water. The ride is generally dry, with little spray. Passengers in the cockpit can sit close behind the cabin to shelter from the elements. The rudder is shallow and extends 3’ beyond the transom. It controls the boat well in all conditions.

While the builder ultimately chose to use an outboard bracket, his Ptarmigan 17 has a built-in motorwell appropriate for a small outboard. The opening of the well is visible at the bottom of the transom.

The plans and notes describe an optional motorwell, set to starboard, but do not specify the size of the auxiliary outboard motor. A 2.5-hp is all Ramona and I need to get into and out of the harbor, or back home when the wind dies. I built the motorwell to house an electric trolling motor but found that I needed more power, so I switched to a small gas motor that I set on a transom-mounted bracket. The motorwell could easily accommodate the 2.5-hp outboard.

W hen I decided to build this boat there wasn’t a lot of information on how the boat would perform. A few pictures and a description by the designer were all that I had. My experience with a smaller boat helped refine my requirements for the new boat, which the Ptarmigan 17 met: capable of crossing the larger lakes in almost any condition, easily towed behind our pickup, and equipped with a dry bed to crawl into at night. I did make some modifications, such as building a self-draining footwell and building fiberglass-covered benches to drain the rainwater over the side. To provide more storage space, I extended the forward ends of the side benches, covering the centerboard trunk with more seating. Now I can leave the boat unattended at a mooring without having to worry about the cockpit filling with water.

If you’re looking for a small cruising sailboat to explore far and wide, that you can easily trailer and store at home in between adventures, then you should take a close look at the Ptarmigan 17. Just be ready for the many admirers you’ll meet along the way.

Steve Cormack is a self-taught amateur builder with a workshop in Pender Harbour, British Columbia. He started building boats nearly 40 years ago and has completed several small plywood kayaks and strip canoes. In addition to the Ptarmigan, he has built a Handy Billy motorboat (which he uses for day trips), and a Selway Fisher Blackswan 22 for cruising. He is currently finishing a 32′ Lake Union–style dreamboat based on a Katherine 30, designed by William Hand Jr.

Ptarmigan 17 Particulars

Beam/6′ 11″

Hull depth amidships/2′4.5″

Draft, board up/1′2″

Draft, board down/3′5″

Sail area, cat/139 sq ft

Sail area, yawl/135 sq ft

Maximum headroom/4′6″

Plans for the Ptarmigan are available from Selway-Fisher (£195 print, £175 PDF) and Duckworks ($236 print or PDF).

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (6)

Wow! Amazing! Do these plans include the modifications of the self draining foot wells and benches and storage space? Or are those changes a builder would have to figure out on their own?

Stacey, I modified the design according to a few of my own preferences. One was for a self-bailing cockpit floor and the other was for seats that would shed the rain water. These adaptations are well suited to our climate here on the west coast of Canada.

Hello Steve, You have built a very charming pocket cruiser. You obviously have some accomplished woodworking skills. Are the protruding frames above the deck and the strong bulwark attached to them a modification to original design plans? A lovely and practical feature. How is the deck sealed around frames to ensure waterproofing? Is there room for a portable loo and small galley flat in the cabin? Any frustrating weather helm issues with the yawl rig? Lawrence

Thanks, Lawrence. Yes, I did extend the frames to allow for the small bulwarks. I used epoxy putty to fill any voids then covered the deck with a 6-oz glass cloth set in epoxy. I have not had any issues with leaks as of yet.

I suppose you could fit a small portable loo if designed in during construction; same for the galley. I might suggest a galley that could be set up when needed and stowed especially at night when you need the space for the berth.

I don’t recall any issues with weather helm as of yet, and am more than happy to have the option of dousing the main altogether should the conditions require it.

I watched your video of your Black Swan project and of your Ptarmigan 17 build. I am certain Paul Fisher must be very pleased and honoured by your handiwork. Congratulations! Lawrence

Do you suppose the cat rig could be replaced by a junk rig fairly easily, with the sacrifice of a through-cabin mast?

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Difference Between Ketch and Yawl Explained

When I was a lad, I thought they were all schooners, but they were not. The difference between ketch and yawl (and schooner) is determined by the position of the mizzenmast relative to the rudder pole.

Also, the height of the mizzenmast relative to the mainmast plays an essential role in the definition of ketch, yawl, and schooner.

Ketch vs Yawl vs Schooner

Ketch sailboat, yawl sailboat, ketch vs yawl – the bottom line.

Before we go down to the ketch vs yawl differences, we need to define a schooner, one of the classic sail configurations echoing from the Age of Sail , which is the 1600s.

Well, a schooner is a sailing vessel with multiple masts (more than one) where all masts bear either Bermuda sails, gaff sails, or a combination of those.

In application to the modern pleasure boats , we speak mainly about two-masted schooners . More importantly, the second mast, which we often call “mizzenmast,” must be the same height or taller as the “mainmast.”

Sometimes (and officially it is so), we call the second mast of a schooner a main mast, as it is taller, but the first one is the foremast then. I see no serious fault in either use of these terms.

The mizzen sail of a schooner can be significantly larger than her main sail or of the same size.

Schooners are usually larger boats, tall ships, and super-yachts. We can hardly spot a 25-foot schooner, but they are commonly 50-60 feet and up. Honestly, we can hardly spot a schooner as a pleasure boat at all unless she is a super-yacht or a historical vessel.

Schooners may feature a staysail or a few between the masts, along with or instead of the main sail. Ketches do so as well, while yawls do not.

Ketch vs Yawl

Just to cut it short, one image is worth a thousand words. So let’s take a look at the ketch vs yawl comparison , and we’ll cover the details below.

Once the mizzenmast of the two-masted schooner-alike is shorter than the mainmast, she is a ketch . Yet another cardinal condition to define the ketch vs yawl difference is that for a sailboat to be a ketch, the mizzenmast should be located before the rudder pole (otherwise, she is a yawl).

A ketch with two or more jibs is called a cutter ketch (in the picture above). Bigger ketches may carry triangle staysails between the masts, like for going downwind, which is not the case for a yawl due to the distance between the masts, and the mizzenmast being too small.

Modern ketches can bear gaff sails or a combination of a gaff sail and a Bermuda sail, but the latter we meet pretty seldom. Ketches way more often implement Bermuda sails on both masts.

Because the sail area of a ketch is split into two parts, the masts of a ketch are shorter than the single mast of a sloop, giving more clearance to pass under the bridges, and decreasing the load given on each mast, sails themselves, standing rig, and running rig too.

Ketches are widely recognized as way stable boats when in rough water and strong winds compared to sloops; this makes them idyllic for off-shore cruising. For day-sailing, you can use just one sail and jibs. That makes ketches very versatile sailboats, as you choose the best sail configuration for today’s voyage out of several options.

The complexity of control is a subjective con as well, real ketch-owners never report. The mizzen is smaller anyway than the genny and the main.

Nobody forces you to use all sails at once, but you have a wider range of options . Shorter masts and smaller sails are easier to handle once you sail single-handed. Logically, for a cruising couple, a ketch is simply the best sailboat.

There are no brand-new ketches in the market to buy one straight away from the manufacturer. For the mass market, boatyards prefer making sloops, but for having a brand-new ketch, you need a custom build. The same is about yawls, by the way.

And, we have found yet another beautiful pro for ketches somewhere in sailing forums: a ketch appears like a real ship rather than a sloop-ish big dinghy (ha-ha).

Boaters who tried a ketch do never go back to sloops. If you meet one, please let us know.

The mizzenmast of a yawl is located far abaft the rudder pole. The mizzenmast of a yawl is usually very small, even tiny, standing far abaft. Actually, it is significantly smaller than one on a ketch – the main and the principal difference between a ketch and yawl.

Yawl owners report they never want anything but yawl anymore, just like ketch owners do about their ketches. Many sloop owners, however, think about a ketch or a yawl as their next boat. True.

Yawls are as stable as ketches on the go, but you’ll meet different physics and behavior once you sail it because the wind force applies behind the rudder. Somewhat a rare-wheel-drive if you wish. Nobody calls sailboats “something wheel drive,” but we want to hint at an idea about how to sail a yawl.

Just because the yawl’s mizzen sail is behind the rudder, it can be used as a wind rudder. Many yawl owners find it way useful, as it adds a ton to stability, including but not limited to the downwind.

Some yawl owners say they also use the second sail as a stabilizer when anchoring, which you can hardly do safely with any bigger sail. I’m unsure if this even counts anything like a serious pro, but some people report they love it.

The mizzenmast standing at the very aft may sometimes complicate the installation of the wind-wane or a solar panel at the aft. Maybe a reason why yawls are, in general, smaller boats than ketches, and the former fit less for off-shore cruising (please don’t shoot at me).

Many boaters we have interviewed about ketch vs yawl say, “I love ketch/yawl because she is just more beautiful than my counterpart.” If you ask me, my dream boat is a ketch sailboat with a heavy steel hull, most probably a cutter of about 40-45 feet LOA.

The stability of yawls and ketches is pretty the same, if I may. They are not really “ketch vs yawl”; there’s not much space for being “versus,” but we think both are generally better than a sloop.

Both ketch and yawl perform amazingly in strong winds, having an option to run with the mizzen and the jib on, downing the main (the combo is called Jib and Jigger ).

Both ketch and yawl are cooler downwind compared to a sloop, but the letter wins the upwind performance. That is why we do not see ketches nor yawls racing.

There are so many reports of how the two-masted yachts (ketches and yawls) perform in rough weather. They are just made for this, as the wind force is spread, giving less load upon each mast and the rig, and then smaller sails serve longer and are easier to handle.

So, finding out the difference between ketch and yawl, I asked my teacher a long time ago: what was the best rig for the rough waters and heavy winds? He replied: A submarine.

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Hi, I’m Igor, Skipper of S/Y "The Hooker". A decade ago, I conquered my childhood dream: to be a sailing skipper, own a sailing yacht. Yes, it knocked dullness out of my urban life — Read more →

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