sailboat heeling over

What is Angle of Heel on a Sailboat

And, what Angle of Heel on a Sailboat is acceptable?

What is heeling over on a sailboat?

Heeling over or “heeling” on a sailboat is when it leans over.

Why does a sailboat heel over and why doesn’t it tip over?

Remember your tommee tippee cup? It had a rounded bottom and a weight loaded into the rounded bottom. No matter how much water you put in the cup, the weight at the bottom made sure the cup stood upright – and the rounded bottom meant that if you pushed it over, it would stand right back up.

Your finger pushing sideways on the top of the cup is just like the wind acting on the sails. The wind acting on the sails puts pressure on the sails. Pressure over the entire area of the sails creates a force. The greater the area, the greater the force, and the stronger the wind, the stronger the force. The distance the force is collectively acting on the sails is about 1/3 of the way up the sails. This point is called the center-of-pressure. This is like your finger pushing all the wind’s force at that center-of-pressure point. The sailboat, like the tommee tippee cup has no choice but to lean (heel) over.

The propensity for the sailboat to heel over depends on the height (distance) of the center of pressure above the water line. The physics formula for this is force x distance which equals a physics term called “moment” (not like a moment in time). The “moment” can be considered as the same as “torque” or even easier – as the “tipping force” or (heeling force). The greater the distance and force – the bigger the tipping force.

In high wind conditions, you can lower the center of pressure by spilling some of the wind out of the top of the sails by twisting out the sail at the top (done by easing the mainsheet which allows the boom aft to rise – thus creating less tension on the leech of the sail and allowing the top to twist out).

Twisting out the top of the sail has a double effect. There is less sail area presented to the wind at the top. This means a lower center-of-pressure (less height) and less area – giving rise to less tipping moment.

Another way to lower the center of pressure is to reef the sail (partially lower it). This also acts to reduce the area of the sail. Less area and less height of the center-of-pressure reduces the tipping force. Here is an image showing reefing and twisting effect on the tipping moment. The image also discusses how twisting and reefing moves the center-of-pressure forward. This has the added benefit of reducing what is known as weather helm – the boat wants to automatically turn up into the wind.

What stops the sailboat from completely tipping over?

A balance between gravity acting on the weighted keel and the wind force on the sail stops the boat from completely tipping or heeling over. As the boat heels over, the sail area is not upright and so less sail area is presented to the wind. Also as the boat heels over, gravity acting on the weighted keel that is rolling upwards with the heel of the boat creates a force to stand the boat back upright. At some point, both forces meet in agreement and compromise with a defined heeling angle.

Imagine the weighted keel is just like how your Tommee Tippee cup uses gravity to force the boat to stand back upright. Thus it becomes a balance between the boat being pushed over by the force on the sails and the weight of the keel trying to stand it back up.

See this animation below of the balance of forces. CLICK on the green Increase Wind button. You will see how the “righting force” increases as the weighted keel lifts outwards off the centerline. You’ll also see how the tipping force decreases because less sail area is presented face-on to the wind. It means that the righting force from the keel will always overpower the wind force at some angle of heel. This is not to say that sailboats never tip over, they do but only usually in cases of a massive unprepared-for gust (60+ knots), giant wave, or if they lose their keel. Dinghies of course do tip over from the improper balance of the crew.

What is an acceptable heel angle?

The acceptable angle of heel on a sailboat depends on various factors, including the design of the boat, its ballast, the boat’s purpose, and the prevailing conditions. Generally, here are some guidelines:

• Dinghies and Small Boats : Dinghies are designed to be agile and may heel significantly, especially when sailed aggressively. Capsizes can happen but are often a part of dinghy sailing.
• Cruising Sailboats : Most cruising sailboats are designed to be stable and comfortable. They typically perform best at an angle of heel between 10° and 20°. Once a cruising boat heels beyond 20°, its weather helm tends to increase, making it more challenging to steer, and the boat might not sail as efficiently.
• Racing Sailboats : Racers might push their boats harder, and some racing designs can handle more heel. Nevertheless, excessive heel can still decrease speed as more wetted surface (hull in the water) causes increased drag.
• Multihulls (Catamarans and Trimarans) : These vessels are designed to sail relatively flat. Heeling angles over 10° can be a cause for concern on a multihull. When a multihull starts to heel significantly, there’s a risk of capsize, especially if a hull lifts entirely out of the water.
• Keel Design : Boats with full keels tend to be more stable and resist heeling more than those with fin keels or lifting keels. However, once they reach a certain heeling point, full keel boats can be more challenging to bring back upright.
• Seaworthiness : Some boats, especially bluewater cruisers, are designed to be very seaworthy and can handle significant heel angles, even beyond 45°, without capsizing. Still, this doesn’t mean it’s comfortable or efficient to sail them at such angles.

Factors like gusty winds, big waves, and the condition of your sails (e.g., having a full mainsail up in strong winds) can also influence heel.

What to do if you are getting excessive heeling angle:

• Reef Early : Reducing sail area can help to decrease heeling and make the boat easier to control.
• Adjust Sail Trim : Flatten your sails by tightening the outhaul, cunningham, and backstay (if adjustable).
• Change Your Point of Sail : Sailing more downwind can reduce heeling, but be cautious about accidental jibes.
• Ease the Sheets : Letting out the mainsheet or headsail sheet can reduce power in the sails.

Lastly, the best way to understand how much heel is acceptable for your specific boat is to gain experience in various conditions and, if possible, consult with more seasoned sailors or trainers familiar with your type of boat.

This information was drawn from the NauticEd Skipper Course (for large keelboats) and the NauticEd Skipper Small Keelboat Course . Sign up now to learn the knowledge you need to know to effectively skipper a sailboat.

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What To Do When a Sailboat Is Heeling Too Much (Explained)

Sailing is a fun activity for many people, but it comes with the innate prerequisite of being on the water rather than on stable ground. Aspiring captains must learn how to navigate and operate a boat while it rocks around in the water, which means dealing with things like heeling (i.e., leaning too far to the left or right). What do you do when your boat is heeling more than you can handle?

When a sailboat is heeling too much, you can ease or let out the sails to stop them from catching as much wind. This should greatly reduce heel. You can also redistribute weight on the boat to balance it out or use a boat that naturally heels less.

In this article, I will go into detail on some of the things you can do to mitigate how much a sailboat heels, as well as some other related topics. Read on if you’d like more information on sailboat heeling and how to reduce it.

Table of Contents

How a Sailboat is Made Can Affect Heeling

One of the biggest factors in how much a sailboat can heel is simply how the boat is made. Everything from the shape of the keel to the size of the boat impact how easily and safely it can heel.

If you find that your boat is consistently heeling more than you would like, it may just be how that particular boat is made. Some people actually prefer a sailboat that can heel easily, especially those who compete in boat racing, because it can increase a boat’s speed by allowing the sails to catch more wind.

As such, if you have a choice in the matter, try to look for a sailboat that’s made with stability in mind. Some boats are made specifically to handle heeling better and maintain stability, which will likely be an advertised feature as well as one that’s more in demand for recreational sailors.

The Keel Can Affect a Sailboat’s Propensity to Heel

Even if you don’t have the option of trying a different boat, you should still look yours over, especially the keel , which is the protruding piece at the bottom of the boat. 

The keel can vary greatly in appearance depending on what it’s built for, but some boats have keels specially designed to reduce heeling through means like catching on the water and counterbalancing the vessel.

You might not be able to easily replace or modify a sailboat’s keel, but you can at least check to make sure it’s working as it’s supposed to. If something important is damaged or broken off, this could impact your boat’s ease of control, especially when it comes to heeling.

Adjust the Sails to Reduce Heeling

The sails are the primary cause of heeling in a sailboat. 

A boat heels when its sails catch enough wind to pull it to the side and make it lean. This is usually fine but can put stress on the mast and risk capsizing your vessel in extreme cases.

The easiest way to stop this is by simply lowering the sails. If there’s nothing for the wind to catch on, your boat shouldn’t heel much, if at all. While this is a temporary solution unless the boat has another form of propulsion, it’s effective nonetheless. 

If the wind picks up while you’re out sailing and it starts causing your boat to lean more than you expected, taking down the sails for a while will let you wait it out.

Use a Motor When the Wind is Too Strong to Reduce Heeling

Speaking of alternative forms of propulsion, it’s a good idea to have a backup for when the weather doesn’t agree with sails. This way, any time a heavy wind starts tugging your sailboat around more than you’re comfortable with, you can just pull the sails in and start up the motor.

A boat being propelled mechanically can also go faster than one powered by the wind in its sails under the right circumstances. If you want more options for fast travel, this is another good reason to consider installing a motor on your boat. 

Just keep in mind that using both the sails and motor at once won’t necessarily make you go any faster.

Redistribute Weight to Lessen Excessive Heeling

Lowering the sails may be the best way to stop a boat from heeling, but this also means you will be going nowhere fast until the wind calms down unless you have another form of propulsion. 

If you want to reduce how much your boat is heeling without slowing down your sailing experience, one easy thing you can do is redistribute the weight on the boat so that it counteracts the wind pulling on the sails.

If your boat is being pulled to one side, have all passengers stand or sit on the opposite side to counterbalance it. If you don’t have any other passengers or this isn’t enough, try moving heavy cargo instead. This is unlikely to completely stop a boat from heeling, but it can mitigate the impact and limit how far the boat will heel.

Will a Sailboat Tip Over?

It can be difficult for passengers to deal with a boat heeling a few degrees more than they’re used to. After all, most people are accustomed to being on solid ground where the floor beneath them doesn’t shift and tilt at awkward angles. However, the concerning part for some is the idea that their sailboat could tip over and capsize.

A sailboat will tip over under the right circumstances. However, this is very unlikely unless the boat is in heavy wind or rough water, and many sailboats are designed to prevent heeling too much. Some sailboats are also able to right themselves when capsized.

Because capsizing is a possibility, a lot of sailboats have safety precautions implemented to help deal with excessive heeling. This doesn’t mean you should sail out into storms with reckless abandon, but it might put your mind at ease while sailing to know that your sailboat is probably made to stay balanced and even flip itself back over in the event of being capsized.

Check out the video below to find out more about reducing the heel angle on a sailboat:

What To Do When a Sailboat Is Heeling Too Much – Conclusion

It’s perfectly normal for sailboats to heel, but this can cause problems in more extreme cases. Not only is it difficult to walk around on a deck that’s slanted sideways, but it can also put the sailboat at risk of capsizing if the boat heels too much.

Fortunately, there are several things that can be done to mitigate how much a boat can heel as well as allow it to heel more safely. The suggestions made in this article are the easiest ways to “right the ship” as it were if heeling too much.

Bryan is a Las Vegas resident who loves spending his free time out on the water. Boating on Lake Mohave or Lake Havasu is his favorite way to unwind and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. More about Bryan.

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Why Do Boats Heel? How Much Is Too Much

I have been sailing multiple times when the boat heeled over. It is an awesome feeling when you heel over. There have also been times when the boat heeled over and I was a little nervous about it capsizing.

Boats will begin to heel when there is enough force from the wind pushing on your sails. When heeling over, boats will have a better angle through the water creating more speed. Each boat is different and has a different optimal heel angle.

There is a lot of information when it comes to heeling over that you should be aware of.

How Much Should a Sailboat Heel?

As a general rule, the heel angle should be between 10 and 30 degrees. If the heel angle becomes greater than 30 degrees, it will increase the chances of capsizing.

Smaller boats will always be more prone to capsizing. They have less weight in their keels and the keel is what helps balance your boat. Balance is key when it comes to heeling over.

There are no guarantees that a boat will not capsize, although it is not very common.

A 22-foot sailboat can heel over so far, that the sails will lose all wind causing the boat to reduce its heel and gain its wind back. This will usually happen before the boat actually tips over.

Take a look at this video. At minute 4:34, the boat will heel over too far and the mainsail will start to flutter as the boat takes on water. The boat will bounce back up because of its keel and the mainsail will fill back up with wind.

Larger boats have a heavier keel and will be more sturdy when heeling over. I have been on a 30-foot Hunter Cherubini, where we sailed with the rails in the water for roughly 20 minutes.

This boat had a 4100-pound keel weight. The captain was never worried about capsizing due to the build of this boat. The keel is a crucial part of the boat when heeling over.

What Is The Purpose of a Keel?

The main purpose of the keel is to keep your boat balanced while sailing. If your boat is well balanced, it will have more speed through the water. It will also help prevent your boat from tipping over.

Keels carry the ballast, which is a large weight. They can weigh anywhere from 100 pounds to 5000 pounds and sometimes even more. They are an essential part of your boat and sailing without one would be nearly impossible.

My first sailboat (Catalina 22) had a swing keel for use with shallow water. This was a great learning opportunity for me. I was able to see how a boat handles with a keel versus how a boat handles without a keel.

Keels come in a lot of different shapes and styles. See the list below for the different types of keels.

The Different Types of Keels

• Full Keel – Runs the full length of the boat
• Fin Keel – A common keel, attached to the center of the boat
• Winged Keel – Has a shallower draft for shallow waters
• Bulb Keel – Keeps the ballast at the lowest point possible
• Bilge Keel – A boat with two keels on the bottom, this allows for an upright position at low tide
• Swing Keel – A keel that can be raised and lowered. Common on smaller boats.

All of these keels have advantages and disadvantages when it comes to sailing. For most people, having a specific keel will not be a priority when purchasing a boat.

How Do I Stop My Sailboat From Heeling? (Personal Experience)

There are multiple ways to stop your sailboat from heeling. The best way to stop the boat from heeling is by letting out your main sail. The alternate way to reduce heeling, is by turning into the wind more. Both of these options will reduce heel, by reducing wind pressure on your sails .

I have been in multiple situations on my boat when I was nervous about the heeling angle. I have used both of the options listed above and they both work great.

The first time I experienced heel on my boat, I was in a beam reach. The wind picked up suddenly and my boat began to heel about 35 degrees. This was my first time by myself in a heeling boat. It was a bit nerve-wracking. I turned into the wind pretty hard and the boat heel reduced itself pretty fast.

As I have sailed a lot more since then, I tend to heel quite a bit these days and see how far I can push it. The more you do it the more comfortable you become with it.

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

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Learning to Sail: Heeling Over

On the other hand, if you sail dinghies or other unballasted boats then you may capsize if you heel over. It’s part of the fun of sailing that type of boat! When you train to sail dinghies you learn how to quickly and easily right the boat. To start with, if you are slightly nervous, then we suggest learning to sail on a solid keel boat like Chao Lay .

Learning To Sail: What Does The Keel Do?

The keel is a flat blade that is attached to the bottom of the sailboat. It has two main purposes:

• It prevents the boat from being blown sideways by the wind, and
• It holds ballast that helps to keep the boat the right way round.

Be advised that you need to know the depth of your keel to safely navigate in shallow water.

Learning To Sail: Will We Capsize?

Keel boats have plenty of ballast to keep them upright, even in the most extreme conditions. All sailing boats will heel over, and you may even get a wave or two over the side. Don’t be alarmed as this is just part of sailing; keel boats are designed to heel and many skippers say it’s the most exciting part. Cleverly, keel boats were designed using basic physics:

• The ballast is located well below the waterline in the keel. If the boat heels over then the leverage increases. For example, you can compare this to holding a weight in your hand. As you raise your arm straight out from your body, the weight feels heavier the further your arm moves upwards. This is exactly the same as the ballast taking effect when a boat heels over.

It makes sense that a keel boat is very difficult to capsize when these two effects work together (reduced wind pressure on the sails and the ballast working to right the boat). Simply, trust the science and enjoy the experience!

Learning To Sail: How Far To Heel Over?

This is another question we get asked by students. Basically, you want the sailboat to move through the water as efficiently as possible. If you keep a steady heel angle, the blades and sails will efficiently glide through the flow of the water and wind. Keeping the angle consistent is important; there are three things you can adjust to ensure this:

• Sail trim, and
• Placement of weight.

The ideal heel angle is different for each boat. Generally, keel boats should be sailed somewhere in between 10 to 30 degrees.

Our next blog will look at sailing techniques used when  racing in regattas , taking an in-depth look at the three considerations listed above. Until then, check out these great books from the RYA:

Buy RYA Start to Race at the RYA Shop

How a Sail Works: Basic Aerodynamics

The more you learn about how a sail works, the more you start to really appreciate the fundamental structure and design used for all sailboats.

It can be truly fascinating that many years ago, adventurers sailed the oceans and seas with what we consider now to be basic aerodynamic and hydrodynamic theory.

When I first heard the words “aerodynamic and hydrodynamic theory” when being introduced to how a sail works in its most fundamental form, I was a bit intimidated.

“Do I need to take a physics 101 course?” However, it turns out it can be explained in very intuitive ways that anyone with a touch of curiosity can learn.

Wherever possible, I’ll include not only intuitive descriptions of the basic aerodynamics of how a sail works, but I’ll also include images to illustrate these points.

There are a lot of fascinating facts to learn, so let’s get to it!

Basic Aerodynamic Theory and Sailing

Combining the world of aerodynamics and sailing is a natural move thanks to the combination of wind and sail.

We all know that sailboats get their forward motion from wind energy, so it’s no wonder a little bit of understanding of aerodynamics is in order. Aerodynamics is a field of study focused on the motion of air when it interacts with a solid object.

The most common image that comes to mind is wind on an airplane or a car in a wind tunnel. As a matter of fact, the sail on a sailboat acts a bit like a wing under specific points of sail as does the keel underneath a sailboat.

People have been using the fundamentals of aerodynamics to sail around the globe for thousands of years.

The ancient Greeks are known to have had at least an intuitive understanding of it an extremely long time ago. However, it wasn’t truly laid out as science until Sir Isaac Newton came along in 1726 with his theory of air resistance.

Fundamental Forces

One of the most important facets to understand when learning about how a sail works under the magnifying glass of aerodynamics is understanding the forces at play.

There are four fundamental forces involved in the combination of aerodynamics and a sailboat and those include the lift, drag, thrust, and weight.

From the image above, you can see these forces at play on an airfoil, which is just like a wing on an airplane or similar to the many types of sails on a sailboat. They all have an important role to play in how a sail works when out on the water with a bit of wind about, but the two main aerodynamic forces are lift and drag.

Before we jump into how lift and drag work, let’s take a quick look at thrust and weight since understanding these will give us a better view of the aerodynamics of a sailboat.

As you can imagine, weight is a pretty straight forward force since it’s simply how heavy an object is.

The weight of a sailboat makes a huge difference in how it’s able to accelerate when a more powerful wind kicks in as well as when changing directions while tacking or jibing.

It’s also the opposing force to lift, which is where the keel comes in mighty handy. More on that later.

The thrust force is a reactionary force as it’s the main result of the combination of all the other forces. This is the force that helps propel a sailboat forward while in the water, which is essentially the acceleration of a sailboat cutting through the water.

Combine this forward acceleration with the weight of sailboat and you get Newton’s famous second law of motion F=ma.

Drag and Lift

Now for the more interesting aerodynamic forces at play when looking at how a sail works. As I mentioned before, lift and drag are the two main aerodynamic forces involved in this scientific dance between wind and sail.

Just like the image shows, they are perpendicular forces that play crucial roles in getting a sailboat moving along.

If you were to combine the lift and drag force together, you would end up with a force that’s directly trying to tip your sailboat.

What the sail is essentially doing is breaking up the force of the wind into two components that serve different purposes. This decomposition of forces is what makes a sailboat a sailboat.

The drag force is the force parallel to the sail, which is essentially the force that’s altering the direction of the wind and pushing the sailboat sideways.

The reason drag is occurring in the first place is based on the positioning of the sail to the wind. Since we want our sail to catch the wind, it’s only natural this force will be produced.

The lift force is the force perpendicular to the sail and provides the energy that’s pointed fore the sailboat. Since the lift force is pointing forward, we want to ensure our sailboat is able to use as much of that force to produce forward propulsion.

This is exactly the energy our sailboat needs to get moving, so figuring out how to eliminate any other force that impedes it is essential.

Combining the lift and drag forces produces a very strong force that’s exactly perpendicular to the hull of a sailboat.

As you might have already experienced while out on a sailing adventure, the sailboat heels (tips) when the wind starts moving, which is exactly this strong perpendicular force produced by the lift and drag.

Now, you may be wondering “Why doesn’t the sailboat get pushed in this new direction due to this new force?” Well, if we only had the hull and sail to work with while out on the water, we’d definitely be out of luck.

There’s no question we’d just be pushed to the side and never move forward. However, sailboats have a special trick up their sleeves that help transform that energy to a force pointing forward.

Hydrodynamics: The Role of the Keel

An essential part of any monohull sailboat is a keel, which is the long, heavy object that protrudes from the hull and down to the seabed. Keels can come in many types , but they all serve the same purpose regardless of their shape and size.

Hydrodynamics, or fluid dynamics, is similar to aerodynamics in the sense that it describes the flow of fluids and is often used as a way to model how liquids in motion interact with solid objects.

As a matter of fact, one of the most famous math problems that have yet to be solved is exactly addressing this interaction, which is called the Navier-Stokes equations. If you can solve this math problem, the Clay Mathematics Institute will award you with $1 million!

There are a couple of reasons why a sailboat has a keel . A keel converts sideways force on the sailboat by the wind into forward motion and it provides ballast (i.e., keeps the sailboat from tipping).

By canceling out the perpendicular force on the sailboat originally caused by the wind hitting the sail, the only significant leftover force produces forward motion.

We talked about how the sideways force makes the sailboat tip to the side. Well, the keep is made out to be a wing-like object that can not only effectively cut through the water below, but also provide enough surface area to resist being moved.

For example, if you stick your hand in water and keep it stiff while moving it back and forth in the direction of your palm, your hand is producing a lot of resistance to the water.

This resisting force by the keel contributes to eliminating that perpendicular force that’s trying to tip the sailboat as hard as it can.

The wind hitting the sail and thus producing that sideways force is being pushed back by this big, heavy object in the water. Since that big, heavy object isn’t easy to push around, a lot of that energy gets canceled out.

When the energy perpendicular to the sailboat is effectively canceled out, the only remaining force is the remnants of the lift force. And since the lift force was pointing parallel to the sailboat as well as the hull, there’s only one way to go: forward!

Once the forward motion starts to occur, the keel starts to act like a wing and helps to stabilize the sailboat as the speed increases.

This is when the keel is able to resist the perpendicular force even more, resulting in the sailboat evening out.

This is exactly why once you pick up a bit of speed after experiencing a gust, your sailboat will tend to flatten instead of stay tipped over so heavily.

Heeling Over

When you’re on a sailboat and you experience the feeling of the sailboat tipping to either the port or starboard side, that’s called heeling .

As your sailboat catches the wind in its sail and works with the keel to produce forward motion, that heeling over will be reduced due to the wing-like nature of the keel.

The combination of the perpendicular force of the wind on the sail and the opposing force by the keel results in these forces canceling out.

However, the keel isn’t able to overpower the force by the wind absolutely which results in the sailboat traveling forward with a little tilt, or heel, to it.

Ideally, you want your sailboat to heel as little as possible because this allows your sailboat to cut through the water easier and to transfer more energy forward.

This is why you see sailboat racing crews leaning on the side of their sailboat that’s heeled over the most. They’re trying to help the keel by adding even more force against the perpendicular wind force.

By leveling out the sailboat, you’ll be able to move through the water far more efficiently. This means that any work in correcting the heeling of your sailboat beyond the work of the keel needs to be done by you and your crew.

Apart from the racing crews that lean intensely on one side of the sailboat, there are other ways to do this as well.

One way to prevent your sailboat from heeling over is to simply move your crew from one side of the sailboat to the other. Just like racing sailors, you’re helping out the keel resist the perpendicular force without having to do any intense harness gymnastics.

A great way to properly keep your sailboat from heeling over is to adjust the sails on your sailboat. Sure, it’s fun to sail around with a little heel because it adds a bit of action to the day, but if you need to contain that action a bit all you need to do is ease out the sails.

By easing out the sails, you’re reducing the surface area of the sail acting on the wind and thus reducing the perpendicular wind force. Be sure to ease it out carefully though so as to avoid luffing.

Another great way to reduce heeling on your sailboat is to reef your sails. By reefing your sails, you’re again reducing the surface area of the sails acting on the wind.

However, in this case the reduction of surface area doesn’t require altering your current point of sail and instead simply remove surface area altogether.

When the winds are high and mighty, and they don’t appear to be letting up, reefing your sails is always a smart move.

How an Airplane Wing Works

We talked a lot about how a sail is a wing-like object, but I always find it important to be able to understand one concept in a number of different ways.

Probably the most common example’s of how aerodynamics works is with wings on an airplane. If you can understand how a sail works as well as a wing on an airplane, you’ll be in a small minority of people who truly understand the basic aerodynamic theory.

As I mentioned before, sails on a sailboat are similar to wings on an airplane. When wind streams across a wing, some air travels above the wing and some below.

The air that travels above the wing travels a longer distance, which means it has to travel at a higher velocity than the air below resulting in a lower pressure environment.

On the other hand, the air that passes below the wing doesn’t have to travel as far as the air on top of the wing, so the air can travel at a lower velocity than the air above resulting in a higher pressure environment.

Now, it’s a fact that high-pressure systems always move toward low-pressure systems since this is a transfer of energy from a higher potential to a lower potential.

Think of what happens when you open the bathroom door after taking a hot shower. All that hot air escapes into a cooler environment as fast as possible.

Due to the shape of a wing on an airplane, a pressure differential is created and results in the high pressure wanting to move to the lower pressure.

This resulting pressure dynamic forces the wing to move upward causing whatever else is attached to it to rise up as well. This is how airplanes are able to produce lift and raise themselves off the ground.

Now if you look at this in the eyes of a sailboat, the sail is acting in a similar way. Wind is streaming across the sail head on resulting in some air going on the port side and the starboard side of the sail.

Whichever side of the sail is puffed out will require the air to travel a bit farther than the interior part of the sail.

This is actually where there’s a slight difference between a wing and a sail since both sides of the sail are equal in length.

However, all of the air on the interior doesn’t have to travel the same distance as all of the air on the exterior, which results in the pressure differential we see with wings.

Final Thoughts

We got pretty technical here today, but I hope it was helpful in deepening your understanding of how a sail works as well as how a keel works when it comes to basic aerodynamic and hydrodynamic theory.

Having this knowledge is helpful when adjusting your sails and being conscious of the power of the wind on your sailboat.

With a better fundamental background in how a sailboat operates and how their interconnected parts work together in terms of basic aerodynamics and hydrodynamics, you’re definitely better fit for cruising out on the water.

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The 5 Points of Sail Explained

The 5 points of sail describe the angles a sailboat can sail relative to the wind direction, and we have a name for each of them:

• Close-hauled: Sailing close to the wind 
• Close reach: Bearing away from the wind
• Beam reach: The wind comes from the side
• Broad reach: Sailing away from the wind
• Running: Sailing downwind.

In this article, I’ll explain the points of sail from Close-hauled upwind sailing to Running downwind. We’ll look at the technicalities of each point and how to trim the sails accordingly. We will also walk through some of the nautical terms associated to make sure you are up to speed. Finally, I’ll share some of my best tips and strategies for downwind sailing with you!

The 5 points of sail explained

I made this points of sail diagram for your convenience. It illustrates the sailing angles to the wind and is helpful to identify the term for what point of sail you are on.

Looking at the illustration, you might wonder why the no-go zone isn’t included as a sixth point. The reason is that you can’t sail a boat directly into the wind. So, technically, it isn’t a point of sail. However, I will include it anyway since you head through this zone every time you make a tack.

I will talk about “true” and “apparent” wind when describing the points, so let’s take a quick look at what that actually means before we move on.

True and apparent wind briefly explained :

True wind speed is the actual wind velocity measured by a stationary object. Apparent wind speed is the wind velocity perceived by an object moving through the air, such as a boat or yourself. In other words, apparent wind speed combines the actual wind and the effective wind created by your motion.

This element is crucial to understand when sailing and of course, I have an excellent article on the topic: Learn more about the difference between true and apparent wind.

NO-GO-ZONE or In Irons – Head to wind

The no-go-zone is where the sail’s angle to the wind prevents it from generating lift. When a sail can’t generate lift, the boat stops, and the sails will start to flop around. This zone is usually about 35 – 45 degrees from the eye of the wind in both directions. That means you always have an area of 70 – 90 degrees towards the direction of the wind that you can’t ‘sail.

There are two occasions you want to have your bow into the wind, though .  When hoisting, lowering, and reefing the sails and briefly during a tack. A tack is when you move the sails from one side of the boat to the other as fast as possible to avoid losing the boat’s speed.

1. Close Hauled – Sailing close to the wind

Sailing close hauled is sailing as close to the wind as your boat allows.

Your sails are sheeted in tight, and if you change your course a little bit too much into the wind, your sails will start flopping, and you will lose your speed. The boat is heeling over to the side, which, for some, can be intimidating.

This point of sail is often called  beating  – with good reason.

The sail trim is crucial, and the person at the helm has to focus on keeping his point. This is also the point of sail where your apparent wind will be the highest in relation to the wind. You will often have waves and swell pounding into the bow, which can be challenging in rough conditions.

Learn more about  how high a sailboat can point in this article.

2. Close Reach – Bearing away from the wind

Once you bear away from being close-hauled, you get into close reach. You are now sailing between 50 and 80 degrees, give or take. This is a much easier point of sail as the person at the helm doesn’t have to be as sharp on the course, and you can ease off the sheets and let the sails out a bit.

The boat will usually calm down when bearing away from beating, and you’ll sail faster, too. The apparent wind strength is still higher than the actual wind, making it an efficient way of working yourself toward the wind without knocking your teeth out!

3. Beam Reach – The fastest point of sail

You are on a sweet beam reach once you bear away from a close reach and get to 90 degrees. This is a fast point of sail for most sailboats. The wind is coming from the side, and your true and apparent wind will be at a delta and show about the same speed.

Sheet your sails out about halfway, and the boat will sail fast and comfortably with excellent stability.

4. Broad Reach – Rig your boom preventer

Continuing to bear off from 90 degrees puts you on a broad reach down to about 135 degrees off the wind. You can now ease the sheets as you turn and will feel the wind speed decrease. This is because you are sailing away from it, and your apparent wind speed is now less than your actual wind speed.

Broad reaching is a very comfortable point of sail due to the lack of heeling. On a broad reach, the sail’s shape is less critical, and trimming in a bit of a belly will make it more powerful. You can accomplish this by adjusting the sheeting angle. Move the cars forward until the leech of the headsail is closed. A fluttering sail is an ineffective sail.

A broad reach is a comfortable point of sail; if conditions allow for it, it is the perfect time to get out your light-wind sail!

It is wise to rig up a boom preventer when sailing in any direction away from the wind. A boom preventer is a line run from a strong point ahead of the mast to the end of the boom. Its job is to prevent the boom from swinging over in case of a sudden, fatal wind change.

5. Running – Sailing downwind

The last point of sail is called running. Running is when you are sailing between 135 and 180 degrees downwind. At this point, you need to trim your sails by easing your sails out as much as possible. Be careful not to let the mainsail chafe against the spreaders and shrouds. Rig up your preventer now if you haven’t already!

As you continue past 135 degrees, you’ll see that the apparent wind speed decreases until you sail dead downwind. You’ll also notice that when you bear away from a broad reach, the mainsail will start blocking the wind to the headsail, and you will struggle to make it stand up.

Closing the circle of sailing points

When continuing around the running point, a gybe will put you over on a broad reach again on the opposite tack, and you can continue through the points up towards a close reach again. Then, making a tack will complete your 360-degree circle! Remember that the apparent wind increases when you get past 90 degrees from the wind.

You can read more about different types of sails here.

Sailing through our points of sail – Example

Like I said in the beginning, when we talk about the points of sail, we refer to the wind angles in relation to your sailing direction, not the compass rose.

Let’s take a quick, simplified example:

You are sailing on a course 0 degrees north. The wind is blowing straight from 90 degrees east onto the starboard side of your boat. This means you are sailing on a  starboard tack  on a  beam reach .

A friend tells you about this awesome beach bar not far away, and you want to change your course about 135 degrees to starboard to get there. This means you will eventually get the wind on the other side of the boat as you turn your wheel over to starboard. As you approach a close reach and get close-hauled, you tighten in your sheets and flatten your sails to keep the speed and momentum.

Once you get past 45 degrees heading, your sails will flap as you turn your bow straight into the wind or the  no-go zone . Now you need to make a  tack.  This means moving your sails over from port to starboard.

As your heading gets close to 135 degrees, the sails will fill with wind again, and you are now sailing  close-hauled  on a  port tack.

You also notice that the wind feels stronger because you’re sailing upwind.

Nautical terms used when sailing and navigating

Port Tack –  When the wind blows on the port side of your sails

Starboard Tack –  When the wind blows on the starboard side of your sails

Tacking  – When you steer the boat from a starboard tack to a port tack and vice versa  upwind .

Gybing-  When you steer the boat from a starboard tack to a port tack and vice versa  downwind .

Heeling  – When the wind fills the sails and leans the boat over to the side.

Boom preventer –  A line or rope tied to the end of the boom and led forward of the mast to prevent it from swinging over when sailing off the wind.

Overpowered –  When wind surpasses the boat’s ability to steer a straight course. This typically happens when you try to sail the vessel above your hull speed, carry too much sail area in strong winds, or trim your sails poorly.

Hull Speed  – The speed at which your boat is sailing when its created wave has the same length as the hull’s water length. Displacement sailboats get hard to steer when going faster than this.

You can learn more sailing terms in my sailor’s guide to nautical terms here .

Final words

There you have it! You now know your points of sailing and that they refer to the vessel’s angle relative to the direction of the true wind. You also learned that a sailboat cannot sail directly into the wind. Finally, we reviewed some good sailing options downwind and looked at some relevant sailing terminology. Now you have to hoist the sails and head out at sea!

FAQ – The 5 Points of Sail

What are the parts of a sail called.

The parts of a sail and their functions are as follows:

• Tack : This is the lower forward corner of the sail, anchoring it at its front bottom edge.
• Clew : Located at the lower aft (rear) corner, the clew is the point where the sail’s bottom and aft edges meet.
• Head : This is the sail’s top corner, opposite the tack and clew.
• Foot : The foot is the bottom edge of the sail, stretching between the tack and the clew.
• Luff : The luff refers to the sail’s front edge, running vertically between the tack and the head.
• Leech : The leech is the aft or rear edge of the sail, extending from the clew to the head.
• Telltales : These are small ropes, bands, or flags attached to the sail, which provide visual cues about the airflow around the sail.
• Battens : Battens are rigid elements, such as slates or tubes, inserted into pockets on the mainsail. They help maintain the sail’s shape and extend its lifespan.

You can read more in-depth about the parts of a sail here .

What are sail poles called?

“Spar” is the general term for a pole made of a solid material like wood or metal used to support a boat’s sail.

These include:

• Mast : A tall, vertical pole that supports the sails.
• Boom : A horizontal pole attached to the mast. It extends from the bottom of the mainsail, helping to control the angle and shape of the sail.
• Spinnaker Pole : A pole used to extend the foot of a spinnaker sail away from the boat, helping to stabilize and maximize the surface area of the sail.
• Whisker Pole: A pole used to hold out the clew of a headsail, like a jib or genoa, when sailing downwind.
• Bowsprit : Though not always considered a pole, a bowsprit is a spar extending from the vessel’s bow and typically used to support the tack of a headsail.
• Gaff : In traditional gaff-rigged sailboats, a gaff is a horizontal pole that, along with the boom, supports the top of a four-cornered sail.

You can read more about the different parts of a sailboat here .

Which point of sail is the fastest?

Beam Reach is the fastest, easiest, and most comfortable point of sail for most sailboats. The wind comes in from the side, and you have your sails about halfway out. When your sails are well trimmed, this is an efficient point that will allow you to sail fast with excellent stability in your boat.

Is it better to sail upwind or downwind?

What’s best between sailing upwind and downwind depends on where your destination is. Remember that your boat won’t be able to sail directly upwind but at an angle of about 35 degrees to your apparent wind direction.

Sailing downwind is comfortable, but ensure your boom preventer is in place for the deepest sailing angles. Also, remember that you will require more wind to sail downwind efficiently as your apparent wind speed is lower than the true wind speed. With enough wind, however, broad-reaching is a fantastic point of sail.

What are the three main points of sail?

The three main points of sail are:

• Beating: When sailing as close to the wind as your boat allows, typically 35-45 degrees.
• Reaching: Includes Close reach, Beam Reach, and Broad reaching, which means you are sailing between 50 and 120 degrees.
• Running: When you are sailing at lower angles than 120 degrees.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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Kristen Einthoven's Blog

Just another weblog.

Heeling and Capsizing

Before I go into some stories or more about certain types of sailboats, I think it is important to explain the concepts behind heeling and capsizing. “Heeling” is when the sailboat leans over to one side due to wind pressure on the sails. To propel the boat, the boat is angled so the wind crosses over the boat at an angle, hitting the sails and pushing them toward one side of the boat. The boat tends to lean toward the side the wind is pushing the sails toward as a result. Although all sailboats will heel, it is most prominent (and safer in my mind) on a monohull sailboat. A monohull is a boat with a single hull (the body of the boat and the part that rests in the water). These sailboats typically have a keel on the bottom, which is basically a big and very heavy extension of the boat that sticks down into the water to help balance the boat and prevent it from capsizing. It acts as a counterweight, especially when heeling over (see the picture at the end). Catamarans are a type of sailboat that has two hulls, with netting or some sort of “bridge” connecting the two. Boats like these do not have a keel, but are less inclined to heel over, at least during recreational sailing, because of the dual-hull setup. Both types of sailboats, however, can still heel over and can also capsize if they heel over too far. “Capsizing” is when the boat tips over, the mast goes into the water, and the boat essentially needs special action to be righted. Smaller sailboats up to about 18 feet are the easies to capsize and are usually not harmed in the process. I have taken out our catamaran (see the previous post) as well as my aunt’s sunfish (one of the smallest sailboats, usually only holds one or two people) and purposely capsized them for fun and am able to right them without problems. It simply takes effort and sometimes multiple people, and to right these tiny sailboats you hang off the boat on the “underside” side (since the boat is sideways or completely upside down), using your weight to bring the boat back upright. However, with larger boats, the result of capsizing is often extremely costly and can destroy a boat. My family charters 40-foot sailboats in the Caribbean to sail on (more stories to come on that) and although it is nearly impossible to capsize due to the weight of the keel, if that sailboat were to capsize the boat would most likely be ruined. Think of it as flipping a car over, but also in a flood. The engine would flood as well as the inside of the car (which would represent the cabin of the boat; larger monohull boats have a lower and upper deck where the lower deck has bedding, sinks, or other storage amenities). The top of the car would be damaged, as the mast could get damaged if it gets stuck on the bottom of the lake, ocean, bay, etc. Also, think of the Concordia cruise ship that capsized off the coast of Italy recently. Those aren’t meant to capsize, obviously, and hence the boat was in fact destroyed. The larger the boat, the more difficult it is to capsize thankfully, but with smaller boats I find heeling to the point of capsizing a lot of fun, and with the larger boats that I sail on, I still find heeling over and the rush that goes along with the wind and speed we take on absolutely thrilling!

2 thoughts on “ Heeling and Capsizing ”

Wow, you certainly know a lot about sailing–your knowledge is remarkable! This blog fascinates me and I find it awesome that you love purposely capsizing. This reminds me of my summer experience with JetSkis. My boyfriend and I rented a JetSki and he whipped around a buoy so quickly that we both flew off and the JetSki fell over (capsized?). It was such a rush! I understand why you must enjoy it, especially on a boat and not a JetSki.

This is such an interesting topic to write about. I am really enjoying learning about your boat adventures and boat vocabulary. My uncle is in love with his boat so I have been on a boat a few times, but other than that I have only been on cruises so I am not entirely aware of this subject. I enjoy reading your passion blogs!

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Mastering Sailboat Heeling

Sailboat heeling occurs when a yacht leans to one side under the pressure of the wind against its sails. This significantly affects a vessel’s performance, stability, and safety.

Managing heel angle is essential for sailors to optimize their boat’s performance, maintain control, and ensure a safe experience. This article will explore the forces, the differences between catamarans and monohulls, and various techniques to manage heeling effectively.

Key Takeaways

• Sailboat heeling is the leaning of a sailboat when it's under sail, resulting from wind pressure on the sails and resistance from the boat's keel.
• Heeling is a normal and necessary aspect of sailing, but excessive heeling can lead to loss of control and even capsizing.
• The optimal heel angle varies depending on the boat type and sailing conditions, but excessive heeling is generally considered to occur at an angle of 25 to 30 degrees or more.
• Techniques for managing heel angle include easing and reefing sails, adjusting the mast, changing course, and shifting crew weight.
• Catamaran and monohull boats have different heeling characteristics due to their design; catamarans have greater stability and less heeling, while monohulls rely on their keel's weight for counterbalance and require some heeling for optimal performance.
• Mastering advanced sailboat heeling techniques, such as weather helm, dynamic tuning, and sail twist, can help optimize boat performance while minimizing excessive heeling.
• Preventing capsizing and reducing heel involves monitoring wind conditions, adjusting sail trim and course, shifting crew weight, and knowing your boat's limitations.

Understanding Sailboat Heeling

Heeling is the term used to describe the sideways leaning of a sailboat when it’s under sail. This leaning happens because of two main forces: the wind blowing against the sails and the resistance of the sailboat’s keel pushing against the water.

Wind pressure: Wind creates a low-pressure area on the leeward side of the sail, generating lift and heeling force. The angle and shape of the sails play a crucial role. Sails with greater angles and fuller shapes generate more force from the wind.

Resistance from the keel: The keel acts as a counterbalance, pushing against the water and resisting the heeling force created by the wind.

The amount a sailing boat heels depends on several factors, including:

• Wind strength and direction
• Sail size and design
• Weight and distribution of people and gear on the boat

It’s important to remember that some heeling is normal and necessary for efficient sailing. However, an excessiveamount can lead to losing control and even capsizing. The maximum angle for most sailboats is between 20-30 degrees, although this can vary depending on boat design and conditions.

Optimal Heel Angle and Intentional Heeling

Intentional heeling.

Allowing a boat to heel to a certain angle will improve performance or speed. The hull shape can create a more efficient water flow, reducing drag and increasing forward motion. However, finding the right balance is essential, as an excessive amount can compromise safety and performance.

Catamaran vs. Monohull

Catamarans : These have two parallel hulls, which provide increased stability and a reduced risk of capsizing. They are designed to sail flatter than monohulls, with minimal heeling. Due to their wide beam and inherent stability, they can maintain high speeds without requiring significant angles.

Monohulls : These have a single hull and rely on their keel’s weight to counterbalance the force generated by the wind. Monohulls are designed to heel, and a certain amount is necessary for optimal performance. However, finding the right angle is crucial, as too much can decrease speed and stability.

Risks of Excessive Heeling

Allowing your boat to heel over 25 or 30 degrees can present risks to both safety and performance:

Safety risks : Excessive amounts can lead to a higher risk of capsizing, especially in monohull boats. Moreover, it can become difficult for the crew to move around safely.

Performance impact : When a boat heels excessively, its sail shape becomes distorted, reducing the sails’ efficiency and hindering forward motion. Additionally, a boat can lose its ability to steer effectively.

Techniques for Managing Heel Angle

Various techniques can be employed to control the heeling forces acting on the boat, particularly in gusty conditions. Some of the key strategies include:

• Easing the sails:  One of the primary methods of controlling the angle is easing the sails, which is particularly useful in gusty conditions. This involves letting out the control lines, such as the mainsheet or the jib sheet , to reduce the pressure from the wind. Easing helps lower the force, resulting in a more upright and stable boat.
• Adjusting the mast:  The mast can also be adjusted, especially in gusty conditions. For example, adjusting the rake (the angle at which the mast leans forward or aft) can influence balance. A more upright mast can help while being more raked can improve upwind performance. Mast bend can also be adjusted to flatten the mainsail, reducing the power and heeling force.
• Trimming the jib: By adjusting the sheet tension and position, you can balance the forces acting on the boat, ensuring it uses an optimal angle. Consider reducing the effect by using a smaller jib or reefing in strong winds.
• Changing course:  Steering the boat into the wind (heading up) or away from the wind (bearing away) can help. Heading up can depower the sails while bearing away can reduce the force by allowing the wind to flow more smoothly. However, some wind conditions can also increase heeling when heading upwind.
• Shifting crew weight:  Instruct your crew to move their weight to the windward side of the boat to counterbalance the force. This technique is especially effective on smaller boats, where the crew’s weight significantly impacts stability.
• Reefing:  In strong wind conditions, reefing (reducing their surface area) can effectively manage the situation.

Effects on Performance

Boat speed: Heeling affects boat speed, as the optimal angle between the wind and the sails changes with the boat’s inclination. Too much can cause the boat to lose speed, while the right angle can optimize the performance.

Sail shape: Changes in the sail shape and angle can affect the direction and performance. Proper sail trim is crucial to harness the wind efficiently and maintain control of the boat.

Crew position and movement: As the boat heels, crew members must adjust their weight and position using hiking straps or harnesses. The effects can make it difficult for them to move around the boat, impeding tasks such as trimming sails or handling lines.

Advanced Techniques

Weather helm technique: This method involves deliberately over-trimming the mainsail, causing the boat to tilt more to one side. By carefully managing this angle, sailors can achieve better upwind performance and control.

Dynamic tuning: This technique involves adjusting sail trim and crew weight while sailing to achieve optimal boat performance in different wind conditions. By responding to wind shifts and changes in boat speed, sailors can make continuous adjustments to maintain the desired angle.

Sail twist: Sail twist is the difference in angle between the top and bottom of the sail. By controlling sail twist, sailors can depower the sail when needed to reduce heeling forces while maintaining boat speed.

Masthead fly technique: Using a small wind indicator attached to the masthead, sailors can monitor wind direction and speed. This information helps sailors anticipate gusts and adjust sail trim and crew weight accordingly to maintain control and optimize boat performance.

How to Prevent Capsizing and Reducing Heel

Monitor wind conditions : Keep a close eye on the wind, as strong gusts or sudden changes in wind direction can cause excessive heeling. Adjust your sails and course accordingly to maintain a safe heeling angle.

Adjust sail trim : Proper sail trim is crucial in preventing capsizing. Ensure that your sails are set correctly for the current wind conditions. If your boat starts heeling too much, ease the sails or reef them if necessary.

Change course : Sometimes, turning into the wind (heading up) can help depower the sails and reduce heeling. Alternatively, you can bear away (turn downwind).

Shift crew weight : Instruct your crew to move to the windward side of the boat, using their body weight to counterbalance the heeling force. This can be particularly effective on smaller boats.

Practice active steering : Learn to steer your boat actively in response to changes in wind pressure. Feathering the boat into the wind during gusts can help maintain a consistent angle and reduce the risk.

Know your boat’s limitations : Understand the specific characteristics of your boat, such as its stability curve and maximum safe heeling angle. This knowledge will help you make informed decisions when managing heel and preventing capsizing.

Use appropriate gear : Ensure that you have the right equipment on board, such as lifejackets, harnesses, and tethers, to enhance safety during periods of excessive heeling.

The Role of the Rudder in Heeling

• Steering into the wind : When your boat starts to heel excessively, steer into the wind (heading up) to depower the sails and reduce the heeling force.
• Steering away from the wind : Bearing away (turning downwind) can also help manage the effect, allowing the wind to flow more smoothly over the sails, reducing the heeling force.
• Counteracting weather helm : In some cases, excessive heeling can cause weather helm , where the boat tends to turn and sail upwind on its own. Using the rudder to counteract this tendency helps maintain control and balance.
• Active steering : Develop the skill of active steering by responding to changes in wind pressure and adjusting the rudder accordingly. This helps keep a consistent heel angle and reduces the risk of capsizing.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Over-heeling: Allowing the boat to heel excessively can lead to losing control and even capsizing. To prevent this, sailors should adjust sail trim and crew weight to maintain a safe angle.

Failing to anticipate gusts: Unexpected gusts can cause sudden increases in heeling forces. Sailors should closely monitor wind conditions, watch for signs of gusts, and be prepared to adjust sail trim and crew weight accordingly.

Improper sail trim: Poor sail trim can lead to excessive heeling and decreased boat performance. Sailors should regularly check and adjust the shape and angle of their sails to harness the wind effectively and maintain control of the boat.

Uneven weight distribution: Improper crew and gear weight distribution can cause the boat to heel more to one side, making it harder to control. Sailors should strive for even weight distribution and adjust to maintain balance and stability.

Ignoring weather forecasts: Keeping track of weather forecasts can help sailors anticipate changes in wind strength and direction, allowing them to adjust their strategies accordingly. Make a habit of checking the forecast before and during your trips.

Safety Considerations and Recognizing Excessive Heeling

While it can be an exhilarating experience, it’s essential to prioritize safety and recognize when your boat is heeling excessively. Excessive amounts can lead to an increased risk of capsizing, which could endanger the crew and potentially cause damage to the boat. 

Keeping the boat upright is one of the most critical aspects of managing heeling. Many sailboats are designed to naturally right themselves after a certain degree of heeling, thanks to the keel’s weight and the hull’s buoyancy. However, if a boat heels too far or too quickly, it may not have enough time or stability to right itself, leading to a capsize.

It’s essential to monitor the angle of heel and adjust your sailing techniques accordingly. While the best angle varies depending on the boat type and conditions, excessive heeling is generally considered to occur when the boat reaches an angle of 25 to 30 degrees or more. At this point, the risk of capsizing becomes significantly higher, and the yacht’s performance will likely suffer.

Monitor the wind conditions : Sudden gusts or strong winds can cause rapid, excessive heeling. Keep an eye on wind conditions and adjust your sails.

Adjust your sails : If your boat starts to heel excessively, ease or reef them to reduce the force of the wind on the sails.

Shift crew weight : Instruct the crew to move to the windward side of the boat to act as a counterbalance.

Change course : If necessary, turn the boat into the wind to depower the sails.

Understanding and managing sailboat heeling is crucial for safety and water performance. By recognizing the forces contributing, such as wind pressure on the sails and resistance from the keel, sailors can make informed decisions about sail trim, crew weight distribution, and course adjustments to maintain optimal heel angles.

It’s also essential to recognize the differences between catamaran and monohull boats and to be aware of the risks associated with excessive angles. By applying the techniques and strategies presented in this guide, sailors can develop the skills to control their vessel’s angle, enhance their boat’s performance, and ensure a safe experience for all on board.

Q: What is heeling?

A: Heeling refers to the leaning of a sailboat when it’s under sail, caused by the wind blowing against the sails and the resistance of the keel pushing against the water.

Q: What is the optimal heel angle?

A: The optimal angle depends on the type of boat and conditions. Generally, the maximum heeling angle for most sailboats is between 20-30 degrees. Excessive heeling occurs at angles of 25 to 30 degrees or more and can lead to a loss of control or capsizing.

Q: What are the main factors that influence a sailboat heeling?

A: The main factors are wind strength and direction, sail size and design, and the weight and distribution of people and gear on the boat.

Q: What are some techniques for managing heel angle?

A: Techniques include easing and reefing, adjusting the mast, changing course, and shifting crew weight. Advanced techniques involve weather helm , dynamic tuning, sail twist, and masthead fly techniques.

Ketch vs Yawl: Understanding the Differences

Storm sails for stormy seas, related posts, whisker pole sailing rig: techniques and tips, reefing a sail: a comprehensive guide, sail trim: speed, stability, and performance, leave a reply cancel reply.

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How Heel Affects Speed and Handling

• By Steve Killing And Doug Hunter
• Updated: September 27, 2017

The underwater hull shape of your boat when it heels affects how much sailing length is put to work, how easy it is to steer, and how much horsepower it can carry aloft as the breeze increases. Consequently, some hull shapes must be sailed differently to get the best performance. To explain this concept, let’s compare three of my designs that represent common, but very different, hull shapes: a beamy IOR 40 called Chariot , the long and narrow Canadian 12-Meter True North I with pronounced overhangs, and a 50-foot deep-draft sportboat design, the Daniells 50.

Effective waterline length

A general design rule is that the longer the waterline, the higher the hull’s speed potential. Perhaps the most important change when a boat is heeled is the length of the hull in the water, which is also known as effective waterline length or sailing length. Before the advent of rating rules based on computer performance prediction, designers working with point-measurement rules naturally strove to create hulls with more effective waterline length when heeled than what was measured for ratings purposes when the boat was upright.

The 12-Meter typified this design strategy. The simplest response to outwitting the waterline measurement process was a boat with generous overhangs at the bow and stern, which would stretch the sailing length when the boat heeled. The International Rule, created in 1906, sought to control excessive overhang by measuring a 12-Meter’s sailing length 7 inches above the load waterline (LWL). But there was just too much speed potential in overhangs for designers not to stretch the bow and stern above this point. When these long, narrow, and heavy designs heel to 25 degrees as shown, the deepest part of the hull remains along the centerline near amidships, but locations closer to the bow and stern shift their immersed volume to one side. When this happens, a significant gain in sailing length is achieved, especially at the stern, and a heeled modern 12 develops a particularly noticeable shift in underwater shape outboard of, and behind, the rudder.

It’s a profoundly different shape than that of the sportboat, which was designed without any point-measurement rule to satisfy. This hull is typical of modern sportboat designs, which are either handicapped through computer performance prediction such as the IMS or race in one-design fleets. A clean underwater shape essentially shifts to leeward as the boat heels. Some gain in waterline length results, but not in the dramatic way of a Meter-class boat. It’s not as important, the way it is with designs with pronounced overhangs, to get the sportboat to lay over just to increase hull speed.

Which brings us to Chariot and the issue of how heeling affects a boat’s performance beyond waterline length. Like the 12-Meter, the IOR design is based on a point measurement system. The International Offshore Rule, which was created in 1972, dominated offshore racing design in the 1970s and 1980s. While IOR competition has been superseded by the IMS and one-design offshore classes, the rule lives on in the hulls of many club-based racing keelboats built in an era when racer/cruiser designs routinely took their cue from SORC and Admiral’s Cup winners.

While Chariot isn’t the most extreme product of the IOR, it does show many typical IOR features: a somewhat triangular transom, deep forefoot, large skeg, and a fair amount of beam–emphasized by a designer because the rule assumed that fatter is slower than skinnier. As an IOR design heels, there’s a tendency to pick up sailing length. But because there’s so much volume gathered amidships, if it heels too far, it can begin to rise up, actually shortening the sailing length. As a result, this hull is far less tolerant of heel angle than less beamy designs.

Asymmetry, drag, and control problems

The narrower hull forms of the 12-Meter and the Daniells 50 also encounter far less form drag. This is the kind of parasitic drag an object experiences as it’s being pushed through a fluid, and the narrower a hull is relative to its length, the lower the form drag will be. Because of this, meter-boat hulls can drive comfortably to windward at high degrees of heel with minimum form drag, stretching their sailing length in the process. It’s an advantage enjoyed by other long, narrow hull forms such as Dragons, IODs, and Etchells.

This brings us to another potential consequence of heel. Look at the shapes of the waterline planes in the heeled drawings. (It’s important to consider all the waterline planes, and not just the lightest colored one describing the sailing length.) With Chariot , they’re asymmetric, with long curves on the leeward side and near-straight lines to windward. The heeled 12-Meter displays a less extreme amount of asymmetry, while there’s hardly any with the Daniells 50. Asymmetry encourages the boat to turn to windward, which can lead to control problems. Those problems are compounded by the way a boat settles fore and aft as it rolls to one side.

In most cases, heeled hulls have more volume (read buoyancy) at the stern than the bow, which means that, to different degrees, they want to pitch bow down as they lean over. Even a boat as long and heavy as a 12-Meter benefits from moving crew weight aft as it heels, to counteract the tendency. The effect is most pronounced in Chariot , where it also has the most serious consequences because of things going on at either end of the waterline. IOR boats typically have a deep forefoot with a sharp bow knuckle, and if the bow gets a bite on the passing water as the stern lifts when reaching, a broach is in the making. The control problem is exacerbated by the rudder’s position. As with the 12-Meter, the rudder post is positioned at the end of the design waterline, and as the hull heels, more so in the case of the IOR design, the top of the rudder is in danger of becoming airborne if the stern is allowed to rise. It’s now vulnerable to ventilation down its low-pressure side, reducing efficiency and encouraging a total stall, just when the bow knuckle is digging in, and the heeled hull’s asymmetry is encouraging a sharp turn to windward.

The control problem is less of an issue with the 12-Meter, which lacks the sharp bow knuckle and generally has enough displacement to keep the rudder buried. And it’s least likely to crop up with a modern sportboat, whose shape is noticeably less beamy than that of Chariot , with a wider transom, flatter sections aft, no skeg, and a shallow forefoot. The rudder is positioned well forward of the design waterline’s aft end, and even when the hull is heeled 25 degrees, it’s at minimum risk of inducing ventilation. All that beam aft creates more waterline length when heeled, but at the same time the underwater shape remains symmetrical, which helps maintain a comfortable amount of weather helm. As with the other designs, moving crew weight aft when heeled is a good idea.

Target speed and heel angle

In 20 knots of true wind, our three designs have distinctive optimum performance parameters. Chariot has a target speed of 6.7 knots, but as the beamiest design, to get there the heel angle must be limited to 26 degrees, and sails must be reefed to 80 percent and flattened. The Daniells 50 will make 7.9 knots with the same sail management strategy, but its hull form permits a heel angle of 29 degrees. The 12-Meter True North I , the narrowest and heaviest of the lot, requires no reefing, only flattening of the sails, and can carry 30 degrees of heel as 8.3 knots are achieved.

How much heel your boat can actually tolerate can be investigated by some on-water pacing against an identical or similar design. If you don’t have one already, install a heel gauge and pay attention to it as you draw your observations. An excellent resource to gather hard numbers on how your boat should be handled is US SAILING, which offers valuable performance packages on about 1,500 designs.

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How far can I heel over? Will I tip?

• Add to quote

My father and I just purchased a 32 foot Catalina and am feeling a bit uneasy when the wind kicks up. We are sailing off the coast of Long Beach, CA and just want to know if it's possible to tip this boat over? I have been getting the rail pretty close to the water very consistently but keep backing off for fear of tipping. I would like to go as fast and heel over as much as possible, all the time staying safe. How far is too far over? Am I even close to the limit? I have sailed 22 & 14 ft boats and this is a whole new world. Any and all advice would be much appreciated!  

There is not a linear correlation between heel and speed. Eventually, you are heeled over so far, that the keel is not doing it's job, and all you're doing is sliding sideways and going slow. It looks exciting, but that's about it. Keep it between 10-25 degrees. You can buy an inclinometer at West Marine or Defender.com.  

What Bubble said. Most modern cruising boats are not designed to sail efficiently heeled over and the tub (said lovingly) that is a Catalina, definitely not. It's exciting, but chances are you won't get there faster. I think, theoretically, it's possible to capsize any boat.  

DRFerron said: I think, theoretically, it's possible to capsize any boat. Click to expand...

Practically speaking you cannot tip over a keel boat like a Cat32 with white sails. If the boat heels excessively, it will automatically turn towards the wind, overwhelming any effort you could make to maintain let alone increase, the heel angle. Over 20 degrees or so of heel, most boats start to experience increasing sideslip so progress upwind is actually reduced by the excessive heel. If you really go looking for trouble...large sea action or an out-of-control spinnaker can lay a keel boat over, or even roll one, but for most production boats like Catalina, the boat's inherent stability will roll it back...  

The Wind can get rather heavy in the late afternoon outside in LB. How far can you heel over ? - until 'green' water is flowing over the gunwhales How far should you heel over for speed ? - Heeling modern boats beyond 10-20 degrees produces a sensation of speed, but all you are doing is moving sideways faster. Ease the main in puffs, tighten in lulls - it is called "working the main". Have fun - and keep us posted !  

You cannot capsize a keel boat with wind alone. It needs breaking waves much higher than the width of the boat. The rule of thumb for maximum hell is 17 degrees. This might vary from boat to boat. But after this degree you will be loosing speed therefore it is best to reduce sail or change to more favorable wind angle.  

Wow! Thank you all so much for such quick replies with fantastic information!!! -Shad  

If you're out and the wind builds, but you don't want to reef the main, letting the jib out will spill some of the wind and decrease heel. It's not the most efficient way to sail, but I've done it myself on occasion when I had "sensitive" passengers onboard. Also, if you ever get real scared, just point the boat straight into the wind. Everything will stop, the boat will right itself from heeling, and you can take a second to gather your thoughts. Mike  

Here's a video that demonstrates what will most likely happen if she goes too far over: huntercapsize02 - YouTube You won't be up a creek but it'll cause a mess. Hopefully you can hang on until she pops back up.  

Reef, reef reef,  

Furl, furl, furl. Get a genoa with foam sewn into the luff and the shape will be better when you try to furl the jib in and still get decent sail shape. Otherwise, reef the main as deniseO30 suggests.  

Pinching all the way into the wind can bring you to a stop and make it hard to keep control, but if you "feather" or pinch partially while still keeping some control and forward motion, you can calm things down quite a bit. Also, old, baggy sails are not your friend when the wind comes up -- you will want the sail relatively flat, with controls adjusted for the wind (usually that means some outhaul pulled out, some cunningham down, traveler eased a bit and able to ease yet more in puffs, backstay more tensioned if you can do that, etc., depending upon your boat). For many boats, "tuning guides" are written to suggest settings for different conditions. A rigger, sailmaker, or experienced sailor could give you tips on how to get the most out of your boat. PS Most chicks don't really dig excess heel.  

As people have said, it's very difficult to get a displacement boat over - I was helming a Sadler 25 under full genoa only in a F6 through the bridges on the Forth and we got laid flat by a sudden gust. Water came over the coamings and we were hanging on to the stanchions, but the boat rounded up and came back up as the sail depowered. I hasten to add: the sail plan was not my decision! Other boats like to be sailed on their ear: Elizabethan 29's have a 3' longer wetted area if heeled hard. They apparently sail best when you see mullet through the window. I always liked it when my Dad sailed our boat like that - it's fun when you're a kid.  

You are afraid of what you don't know, but that is normal. You have to understand the physics of what is going on with a sailboat. Imagine a weeble-wobble toy, If you take a blow dryer and blow it over, it will pop back up once the wind is off of it. If it blows hard enough, it will lie on its side or get blown aside. A boat is like a weeble-wobble. Look at a racing boat out of the water, That big thing at the bottom is a weight that is solid lead, or steel. It keeps the boat upright while in the water,like a weeble-wobble. All sail boats have them (most, not cats,etc.) Other forces are going on with the sails, they actually form a negative pressure on the lee side and pull, not push, the boat along. It is all simple physics, not like the physics in college which I failed! Once you understand the forces going on you will feel safer.  

Ask around It would also be useful to ask other owners of that hull form what they find the optimal heel is on your boat. Asking someone with a lot of racing experience out for an afternoon to put your boat through the paces will help. When I first started sailing keelboats, I was in the same situation as you. Going out with someone I knew to be experienced and competent in the class of boat I was sailing on a breezey day showed me just what was possible. I've seen water to the windows on the racer/cruisers I've been on, but as others have mentioned, that's probably not super efficient. You might try crewing for a year of weeknights on a racer of similar size. Then you won't put the stress on your rig, but will see boats being pushed for optimal performance - it's a great way to learn beyond the basics.  

You will undoubtedly heel over and tip if you're learning to sail on a Laser or other small dinghy in a strong breeze -- and it would likely make you a better sailor with a strong intuitive understanding of the physics and physical side of sailing!  

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Sailboat Stability Uncensored

The merits and limitations of the calculated gz curve..

At its most basic level, my goal as a sailor is pretty simple: keep my neck above water. Speed, comfort, progress toward a destination are nice, but if I need gills to achieve any of these, something is amiss. And since an upside-down boat tends to interfere with this modest ambition, I’d say our recent obsession with stability is justified.

This is far from our first foray into this topic. Shortly after the 1979 Fastnet race disaster , in which 15 sailors died, Practical Sailor embarked on a series of articles on sailboat stability. The racing rules of that era had resulted in designs that were quicker to capsize than their heavier, more conservatively proportioned predecessors, and we needed to explore why.

Since then, the lessons of Fastnet have been absorbed by the design community, culminating with the CE Category system and formulas used by various racing bodies like the Offshore Racing Congress to evaluate a boat’s fitness for the body of water where it will sail. But it’s clear that the tools we use to measure stability, and the standards we’ve established to prevent future incidents are still imperfect instruments, as we saw in the fatal WingNuts capsize in 2011 . And in the cruising community, where fully equipped ocean going boats hardly resemble the lightly loaded models used to calculate stability ratings, we worry that the picture of stability is again becoming blurred by design trends. This video gives some insight into the dockside measurement process for racing boats.

Last month, we examined multihull stability , including an analysis of several well publicized capsizes. One of the key takeaways from that report was the significant impact that hull shape and design can have on a multihull’s ability to stay upright. Another key observation was the distinction between trimarans and cats, and why lumping them together in a discussion of stability can lead to wrong conclusions. As we pointed out, many of the factors that determine a multihull’s ability are related to hull features—like wave-piercing bows—that are difficult to account for when we try to calculate stability.

This month, we take another look at monohull stability. This time it’s a formula-heavy attempt to tackle the conundrum that many cruising sailors face: How can I know if the recorded stability rating for my boat reflects the reality of my own boat? Or, if there is no stability rating from any of the databases, like the one at US Sailing, how do I assess my boat’s stability?

Stability Resources

If you are unfamiliar with this topic, I’d recommend reading three of our previous reports before digging into this month’s article. “ Dissecting the Art of Staying Upright ” and “ Breaking Down Performance ,” both by PS editor-at-large and safety expert Ralph Naranjo, take a broad view of sailboat design elements and how they applies to contemporary sailors. Nick Nicholson an America’s Cup admeasurer and former PS Editor, also offers a succinct discussion of stability in his article, “ In Search of Stability ,” which I recently resurrected from the archives. (Nick, by the way, is no relation to the current editor.)

When we’re talking about stability, the essential bit of information that every sailor should be familiar with is the GZ curve. This graphic illustration of stability highlights the boat’s maximum righting arm, the angle of heel at which resistance to capsize is greatest. It also illustrates the angle of vanishing stability (also called the limit of positive stability), the point at which the boat is just as likely to turn turtle as it is to return upright. Most boats built after 1998 have a GZ curve on file somewhere, and US Sailing keeps a database of hundreds of boats for members. As this month’s article points out, however, the published GZ curve does not always perfectly transfer to our own boats. Nevertheless, it is usually a good benchmark for assessing your boat’s stability ratio—not to be confused with capsize ratio the stability index or STIX .

For a succinct discussion of stability ratios (see below), Ocean Navigator’s excerpt from Nigel Calder’s Cruising Handbook lays good groundwork for the theory. If you really want to dive into the topic, Charlie Doane presents a good overview in this excerpt from his excellent book “ Modern Cruising Design .” Doane, like many marine journalists, relies greatly on the work of Dave Gerr , former director of the Westlawn Institute of Yacht Design and now a professor with SUNY Maritime Institute. Gerr’s four books “ Propeller Handbook ,” “ The Nature of Boats ,” “The Elements of Boat Strength,” and “Boat Mechanical Systems Handbook,” all published by McGraw Hill, illustrate Gerr’s rare talent for taking complicated topics and making them comprehensible and fun to read.

The GZ Curve

Shaped like an “S” on it’s side, the GZ curve illustrates righting lever. The high peak represents a boat’s maximum righting arm (maxRA), the point at which the forces keeping the boat upright (ballast, buoyancy) are strongest. The lowest valley, which dips into negative territory, represents the minimum righting arm (minRA), the point at which these forces are weakest. The curve also clearly delineates the limit of positive stability (LPS, also called the angle of vanishing stability), where the curve crosses into negative territory. Generally speaking, an offshore sailboat should have an LPS of 120 degrees or more. As Naranjo puts it, “It is this ability to recover from a deep capsize that’s like money in the bank to every offshore passagemaker.”

• Notice how lowering ballast lowers the center of gravity (CG) and increases a vessel’s limit of positive stability. In these examples, three identical 30 footers with the same amount of ballast, but differing keel stub depths, alter their draft and GZ curves. Boat 1 (5’ draft), Boat 2 (6’ draft) and Boat 3 (4’ draft). Note that Boat 3, the shoal draft option, has the lowest LPS and Boat 2, has the deepest draft, highest LPS and will sail to windward better than the other two boats. Editor’s note: One would think that with all the reporting we’ve done on stability, we’d be able to label a GZ curve correctly, but in the print version of the March 2021 issue we have mislabeled the curve. I apologize for the error. Sometimes, despite our best efforts, our own GZ curve turns turtle during deadline week. The correct version of the curve appears in the online issue and in the downloadable PDF. If you have questions or comments on boat stability, please feel free to contact me by email a [email protected], or feel free to comment below.

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17 comments.

Thanks for this reminder, another error has crept into the diagrams I think. The yacht seems to have 2 CBs and no GG.

I noticed that also, Halam. With no center of gravity and all buoyancy that boat will never sink. Of course, it could be at rest upside down also.

The link to the US Sailing database is pointing to a different place than I think you intended. It is not the database of boats, but rather information on curve calculation and definitions.

Hi Darrell, sorry to be the bearer of a correction, but it looks like the CG is labeled as CB in the first graphic.

As far as I know, a rule of thumb is that a sail boat can tolerate cross breaking waves not higher than her max beam. Is it true?

It often amuses me to see the many crew sitting out on the gunwale of a keel boat, (monohull) as the righting effect must shorely be minimal. Especially when compared to a small racing trimaran. It does help the ‘Gyration’ as shown in the Fastnet tragedy. Even the ‘Skiffs’ have ‘racks’ out the side, & I’ve seen all sorts of ‘keel arrangements’. They just haven’t put ‘floats’ on the end yet. I’d love to see someone do a ‘stability kidney’, as Lock Crowther said (all those years ago), the the righting, (capsizing force is 35? degrees off the bow. Thought provoking? not antaganistic. Keep up the good work, and thanks ‘B J’.

A useful view of stability is to consider where the energy to resist capsize is stored. As a boat rolls, the center of gravity is also raised with respect to the center of buoyancy, so the weight of the boat is lifted, at least through some angle (as long as the GZ is positive) and energy is stored as a lifted weight. This means that a stability incident is exactly equivalent to rolling a ball up a hill; it will always roll back down until it passes over the top of the hill. This is why most commercial and military stability standards use “righting energy” for at least one criteria. The ISO 12217-1 standard for coastwise and oceangoing power boats requires at least a minimum absolute energy and an energy ratio exceeding a nominal overturning energy of combined wind and wave (similar to the IMO standards for cargo ships and 46 CFR 28.500 for fishing vessels).

Can anyone comment on the stability of Volvo Ocean Race boats? While various mishaps have occurred over the years, I don’t believe any of them have capsized and remained inverted. VOR boats are nothing like the Pacific Seacraft and similar designs from more than 50 years ago, yet they seem “safe”.

Does anyone know why? Size, keel depth and weight, modern design tools?

Good and useful article, particularly to someone considering buying a new or used sailboat. As an add-on to the effect of draft, I would add that most, if not all, builders increase the weight of the keel to try to compensate for the reduction of righting moment with the reduction in draft. I recommend to readers Roger Marshall’s outstanding book entitled “The Complete Guide to Choosing a Cruising Sailboat”. Chapter 3 “Seaworthiness” and chapter 10 “Putting it All Together” are worth the cost of the book many times over. Unfortunately the book is getting out of date, it was published in 1999 and many newer sailboats have come on the market.

Mark, thank you for recommending to read Roger Marshall’s book.

May i suggest reading the book, “Seaworthiness the forgotten Factor”. The author (C.J.Marchaj) makes a number of interesting observations about modern boat design (published in ’86, so not that modern). What sticks with me is the notion that one aspect of seaworthiness is how well a person can survive inside the boat in question– deeper keels make for more righting moment but also a snappy roll, for example, promoting incapacitating seasickness. The boat has to be well enough behaved to “look after” the crew.

My boat 40 ft Samson SeaFarer ketch is fairly tender initially but then settles down once the rail is int he water….but I have never had the top of the mast in the water to see if it would recover well. Since I am not and engineer or math whiz (and don’t want to be!) I wonder if there is a practical way to actually test the stability while on the water. Is there a way for example to pull the top of the mast down to varying degrees/angles and measure the force it takes to do it and use that as a guide to stability. Could that provide some extrapolative certainty to going further around the wheel of misfortune? Crossing between NZ and Australia (45 years ago..) we were knocked over (not my current boat) with the top third of the mast in the water and she righted very quickly (very comforting) – no great mishap except to make the cook go wash the soup out of his hair and confirm all the things we hadn’t tied down…including dishevelled crew.

Cheers Gerry

Can someone please link to the article referenced above on multihull stability? I’ve searched, but cannot find it. Thank you kindly!

I have the same inquiry as Jet. I can’t find the Multihull article. Please advise ASAP!

The link in the 4th paragraph works for me:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/multihull-capsize-risk-check

Couldn’t find this link either. Thanks.

Is it possible to get a link to the USSailing boat database, or some hints on where to find it on the site? The current link just goes to ussailing.org.

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Sailing Terms Everyone Should Know

By: American Sailing Sailboats

Knowing the right sailing terms to use on board a boat is not JUST a way of sounding super cool and impressing your friends. (Though it works for that, too.) It’s actually very useful, and sometimes crucial in communicating while you’re sailing. Some of the vocabulary used on board boats can sound arcane, which it is! That’s part of what’s fun about it; we’re still using terms that have been used by sailors for hundreds of years. So when you know your terminology, you’re participating in the grand sailing tradition, and you don’t have to say, “Can you hand me that…thing?”

photo by b. cohen

Here are the key sailing terms you’ll want to know as you begin learning to sail !

• Port: Facing forward, this is anything to the left of the boat. When you’re onboard, you can use this term pretty much any time you would normally say “left.” Starboard: Facing forward, this is anything to the right of the boat. Same deal as “port”–only the opposite.
• Bow/Stern: The bow is the front of the boat, the stern is the back. Anything near the front of the boat is referred to as being “forward,” and anything toward the back is “aft” or “astern.”
• Point of Sail: The boat’s direction relative to the wind. For example, if you’re going straight into the wind, your point of sail is called “in irons.” (Note: This isn’t a good place to be!) If the wind is blowing straight over the side of the boat, that’s called a “beam reach.” There are 8 commonly used points of sail, and it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with them before going out.
• Helm: Where you steer the boat. Usually this is a big wheel, but on smaller boats it can be a tiller, which is basically a long wooden stick. Either of these can be used to control the boat’s rudder.
• Keel: The keel is a long, heavy fin on the bottom of the boat that sticks down into the water. It provides stability and is the reason why modern sailboats are nearly impossible to capsize.
• Heeling: This is the term for when a sailboat leans over in the water, pushed by the wind. There’s nothing else like the thrill of heeling over as your sails fill and your speed picks up!
• Tack: This term has two distinct meanings, both of them very important. As a verb, to tack is to change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind. As a noun, your tack is the course you are on relative to the wind. For example, if the wind is blowing over the port side, you are on a port tack. If it’s blowing over the starboard side, you’re on a…you guessed it…starboard tack.
• Jibe: A jibe is another way of changing direction, in which you bring the stern of the boat through the wind. Whether you choose to tack or jibe entirely depends on the situation–what’s around you, and the direction of the wind.
• Windward: The side of the boat closest to the wind. When heeling over, this will always be the high side.
• Leeward: The side of the boat furthest from the wind. When heeling over, this will always be the low side.
• Lines: On board a boat, this is what you say instead of “ropes.”
• Mainsail: The big triangular sail just aft of the sailboat’s mast. As the name suggests, this is the boat’s largest and most important sail. Running along its bottom edge, the mainsail has a thick pole called the boom.
• Jib: The next most common sail on any boat. The jib can always be found forward of the mast, and unlike the mainsail, does not have a boom.

  Getting familiar with these sailing terms is an important step. Not only will you sound like you know what you’re doing, you’ll quickly begin to realize that with the right practice and training, you really DO know what you’re doing!

Try our online sailing term quizzes: Sailing Terms 1 | Sailing Terms 2 | Sailing Terms 3 | Sailing Terms 4

Learning to Sail

• ASA 101: What You’ll Learn ASA 101 is your introduction to Basic Keelboat Sailboat and is your key to a lifetime of sailing.
• How To Sail Sailing a boat is part art and part skill but few activities offer such a variety of pleasures as sailing. Something special occurs when you cast off the lines and leave your cares at the dock.
• 7 Tips For The Beginning Sailor There are the obvious things you need when you go sailing, sunscreen, a hat, a windbreaker, non-skid shoes, and wind. However, what do you really need to be ready to head out on the water?
• How To Learn To Sail You won’t have to buy a boat or learn a new language or buy a new wardrobe to get a taste for sailing. You can dictate how much you want to experience.
• Learning To Sail Is Just The Beginning Sailing means different things to different people. At ASA we understand that learning to sail is just the beginning of a relationship with a lifestyle that is infectious. Where will sailing take you? We have a few ideas but how you view sailing is the most important.
• What Is Your Role on a Boat? What type of sailor are you and what role do you take on the boat? Your ASA sailing education will prepare you to be a skipper on a sailing vessel and with that comes the responsibility of keeping your crew safe and ensuring the safety of the vessel you are sailing.

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Here’s Why Sailboats Don’t Tip Over (Explained For Beginners)

Sailboats can tip over, though it is rare among keelboats.

Dinghies can flip over easily, depending on experience and conditions.

So with their big sails, why don’t sailboats tip over all the time?

Here’s Why Sailboats Don’t Tip Over (that often):

Sailboats are designed to heel over, and the more they heel, the more stable they become. This is because of the weight of the keel, counterbalancing the force on the sails. The more the boat heels, the more the weight of a keel acts as a lever to keep the boat upright.

Table of Contents

How Often do Sailboats Actually Tip Over?

Dinghies tip over frequently. Dinghy races are filled with capsizes, even by experienced sailors.

This is because you are pushing the boat to its speed limit in a race, and you will often be unable to release the pressure from the sails before the boat tips over.

Even outside of a race, though, dinghies are more prone to flipping. They do not have enough internal ballast to avoid it.

Catamarans usually tip over less often than dinghies, as their wider platform has more initial stability than monohulls. When they do tip over, it can be more catastrophic as they move faster.

Keelboats rarely tip over. Their ballast and weight distribution make them far more stable than dinghies.

What Prevents a Sailboat from Tipping Over?

In conjunction with other weight, the keel or centerboard is primarily what keeps a boat from capsizing.

This is essentially called ballast. There is ballast in the keel, and there is also usually ballast in the hull itself. The ballast in the keel is more efficient, as it directly works to counterbalance the force on the sails.

On boats such as dinghies, crew weight makes up a substantial amount of the boat’s ballast. This is why you will often see crew members hiking out over the rail; the further they are from the center-line of the boat, the more efficient their weight becomes as ballast.

Hull design can also help prevent sailboats from tipping over. A wider hull, for instance, will have more initial stability and help keep a boat upright.

Also, most deep-V designs will become more stable as the boat heels, as it becomes wider as it heels.

Paradoxically, a sailboat becomes more resistant to heeling the more it heels. This is because the tipping force decreases, and the righting moment increases. The righting moment is essentially the force from the keel.

If a boat is knocked all the way over, the heeling or tipping force is now gone, and the righting force is all that remains, so barring other conditions (like waves), the keelboat will begin to right itself.

But the righting moment usually counteracts the tipping moment before we reach this state.

What Does it Take to Tip Over a Sailboat?

The primary reason sailboats tip over is that there is too much pressure on the sails for the ballast to counteract.

This pressure is the wind. The stronger the wind, the more pressure on the sails, and that means more force trying to push the sailboat over.

In almost every case, a boat tips over because the wind is too strong. Usually, this takes the form of a gust that overpowers the ballast. So a boat may be sailing along in heavy weather, seeming to do fine, but a sudden gust causes it to tip over.

However, sea conditions can also capsize a sailboat. This usually means large waves.

A wave can lift and roll a sailboat if it is big enough compared to the boat’s size. Even in the relative safety of a harbor, a breaking wave can cause a boat to capsize.

When sailboats founder at sea, it is often a combination of wind and waves that cause the boat to be lost.

How to Avoid Capsizing on a Sailboat

There are two main ways to avoid capsizing a boat: what you do beforehand, reef your sails, and what you do when caught in higher winds, which is to de-power them.

Reefing your Sails Before the Wind Picks Up:

The best way to prevent a capsize beforehand is to reef your sails.

Almost every mainsail has one or more sets of reinforced rings and grommets that parallel the boom. Reefing means you lower the main until you reach one of these sets or lines of rings and secure the sail to the boom at this point.

This reduces your mainsail area. Most of these reef points reduce the sail area by 20-25%.

Most offshore cruisers will have three sets of reefs, so by the time they take in the third reef, they have reduced their mainsail by about 60%.

You may want to reduce your headsail, as well. Most genoas do not have reef points; instead, you change the headsail to a smaller one, like a jib.

There are some jibs with reef points, but they are not commonly used.

Finally, if you are expecting very high winds, you might put up your storm sails. These are sails with a very reduced area.

They do not really generate any power; instead, they primarily provide directional stability.

De-Powering your Sails in Gusts:

When you are sailing and find your boat hit by a gust of strong wind, you need to de-power them, or you may find yourself capsizing.

This is pretty easy to do; you let out the main sheet, or both the main sheet and the genoa sheet. This will spill off all the wind and cause your boat to right itself.

You may find yourself doing this over and over, depending on how much sail area you have and the amount of breeze you find yourself in.

You may find yourself wishing that you had reefed your sails!

Do Older Sailboats Tip Over More Easily?

Older boats are, in general, in no more danger of capsizing than modern boats.

The basics of naval architecture have been understood for quite a while now. Sailboats designed in the 1950s reflect an understanding that ballast is required to keep a boat upright.

The ballast may be designed more efficiently in some modern designs, but most modern boats are no more stable than their counterparts from a half-century ago.

Some older wooden boats are less stable, though. This is usually compensated for by adding lead to their keels to increase the ballast.

However, many modern designs, particularly racing boats, are more prone to roll-outs and knock-downs. This is because, in the quest for speed, the sail area is maximized. These boats are lighter and have more force generated by their sail plans.

These designs require a higher degree of skill to operate than other sailboats. Even then, there are still capsizes.

Several high-profile capsizes in recent America’s Cup races, such as the envelope of speed, are continually pushed.

How Far Over can a Sailboat Heel?

Most keelboats perform better with a degree of the heel to them.

The exact angle depends on several factors in the boat’s design, but the majority will still perform well with an angle of the heel from 15-25 degrees, with most modern cruising monohulls at the 20-degree range.

Beyond this, and the efficiency of a boat’s design is decreased, and you start to drag or, in some cases, lose helm control; at that point, you will want to reduce sail area.

But in most boats, you can heel farther than this without getting into danger. Many boats in storms heel 30 degrees or more without having major problems.

When you start exceeding that, though, problems start. At a 45 degree angle of heel, some of your rudders are now out of the water, and you are losing your steering, which means you cannot navigate the waves.

This can drive your bow down further, bringing on a knockdown or cause you to round up, perhaps bringing on an involuntary tack.

Most keelboats can start righting themselves when a full, 90-degree knockdown occurs, but it is difficult to be in, particularly if water starts to enter the cabin.

Some keelboats can even right themselves beyond 90 degrees, depending on how they are ballasted, but all have a point of no return when a turtle is inevitable.

As a general rule, going beyond 30 degrees starts to impair both your sailing and your ability to respond to problems as they occur. Once your heel beyond 45 degrees, you are sailing dangerously.

Final Thoughts:

A keelboat in most conditions will not tip all the way over because its righting moment, driven by the keel, increases the more it heels.

It takes a lot of force to capsize a keelboat.

American Sailing Association – The Keel

Yachting Monthly – Breaking Waves

Quantum Sails – Maintaining Control

Sail World – Reefing and Righting Moments

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Understanding Heeling in Sailing Explained

Have you ever wondered what is heeling in sailing ? In this article, we will delve into the fascinating concept of heeling and how it impacts sailing. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or new to the sport, understanding heeling is crucial for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Key Takeaways:

• Heeling refers to the leaning or tilting of a sailboat due to the wind pressure on the sails.
• Sailboats are designed to heel to a certain degree, and heeling can be controlled through various techniques such as feathering upwind and adjusting sail trim.
• The optimal heeling angle for a sailboat is typically between 15 and 25 degrees.
• Excessive heeling can impact the boat’s performance and stability, so it is important to find a balance.
• Understanding the effects of heeling and employing proper techniques can enhance your sailing experience.

What Exactly Makes A Sailboat Heel?

Sailboats heel when there is too much wind in the sails, causing the boat to lean over and lose some of its forward momentum.

The wind pressure on the sails decreases as the boat heels, resulting in less pressure and force. The extent of heeling depends on factors such as the wind strength and the boat’s design and characteristics.

The keel of a boat provides stability and counteracts the heeling force by its weight and lateral resistance in the water. The optimal heeling angle for a sailboat is usually between 15 and 25 degrees , but it may vary based on the boat’s specific build and design.

“Sailboats heel when there is too much wind in the sails, causing the boat to lean over and lose some of its forward momentum.”

How Do I Keep My Sailboat From Heeling?

While heeling is a natural part of sailing, there are several techniques that sailors can use to control and reduce the angle of heeling. These techniques are essential for maintaining stability and ensuring a smooth sailing experience. Here are some tips to keep your sailboat from heeling excessively:

• Feathering upwind: One effective technique to reduce heeling is to steer the boat slightly into the direction of the wind. This technique releases or spills the wind out of the sails, reducing the pressure and decreasing the angle of heeling.
• Easing the mainsheet or traveler: By adjusting the angle of the mainsail, sailors can release wind pressure and allow the boat to sail more upright. This technique helps to counterbalance the force of the wind and reduce heeling.
• Reefing the sails: In strong winds, it is advisable to reduce sail area by reefing the sails. This involves making the sails smaller and reducing the surface area exposed to the wind. Reefing helps to control heeling and maintain stability in challenging conditions.
• Proper sail trim and course adjustment: Paying attention to sail trim and course adjustment is crucial for controlling heeling. Optimal sail trim ensures that the sails are properly adjusted and balanced, reducing the tendency to heel. Adjusting the course can also help in finding the most favorable wind angles and minimizing heeling.

Implementing these techniques and being mindful of sail trim, course adjustments, and prevailing conditions will greatly help in keeping your sailboat from heeling excessively. By maintaining control over heeling, you can enhance both the comfort and safety of your sailing experience.

How Much Should A Sailboat Heel?

The optimal heel angle for a sailboat depends on its specific design and purpose. In general, a comfortable and efficient heel angle for most sailboats is between 15 and 25 degrees. Sailboats with keels are specifically designed to operate within a particular heel angle to maximize their performance and stability.

Going beyond the maximum heel angle recommended for a sailboat can have negative consequences. It can make the boat difficult to steer and slow down its speed. Maintaining control and stability is crucial while sailing, and reducing excessive heeling becomes essential.

To reduce heeling, sailors can employ various techniques that have been mentioned earlier in this article. Feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails are effective methods for decreasing the angle of heeling. Additionally, adjusting the sails and course according to the wind conditions is vital to maintaining control and stability.

By implementing these techniques, sailors can effectively reduce heeling and ensure safer and more enjoyable sailing experiences.

Expert Tip:

“Proper sail trim and course adjustment are critical for controlling heeling on a sailboat. Understanding the balance between sail area, weight distribution, and wind pressure is key to maintaining stability and reducing excessive heel. Always adjust your sails and course according to the prevailing wind and sea conditions to ensure a smooth and controlled ride.”

Heel Angle Guidelines:

These guidelines provide a general framework for understanding the optimal heel angles for different types of sailboats. However, it’s important to refer to the specific manufacturer’s recommendations for your sailboat to ensure accurate and safe sailing practices.

How Much Heel Is Too Much?

The acceptable heel angle for a sailboat depends on various factors, including the type of sailing and the specific boat design. Long-distance cruising boats may experience less heeling compared to racing monohulls. However, all sailboats are designed to sail at a specific angle of heel. Going beyond this angle can impact the boat’s performance and comfort. Excessive heel can make the boat difficult to control, slow it down, and create excessive strain on the rigging. It is important to find a balance between performance and comfort by making necessary adjustments to the sails and course to reduce excessive heeling.

How Far Can A Sailboat Heel Before Capsizing?

Sailboats with keels are designed to heel over without capsizing under normal sailing conditions. The weight of the keel provides stability and counterbalances the force of the wind in the sails. The boat’s rigging and design also play a role in preventing capsize. However, extreme conditions such as gale-force winds, large waves, and excessive sail area can potentially capsize a sailboat. In such situations, a sailboat may temporarily be knocked down or capsized, but it often self-rights or comes upright by itself. It is important to sail within safe limits and take appropriate measures, such as reefing the sails and reducing sail area, to avoid capsizing.

“Sailboats are designed to heel to a certain degree, and their stability depends on various factors such as keel design, weight distribution, and sail area.” – John Smith, experienced sailor

• Regularly check weather conditions and forecasts before setting sail to avoid unpredictable or extreme conditions.
• Practice proper sail trim and adjust the sails according to wind strength and direction to maintain control and stability.
• Ensure the boat’s rigging is in good condition and properly maintained for optimal performance and safety.
• Consider taking sailing courses or seeking guidance from experienced sailors to improve your understanding of heeling and sailing techniques.

How to Control Heeling on a Sailboat

To control and reduce heeling on a sailboat, sailors can utilize various techniques and adjustments to maintain control and stability. Here are some helpful tips for controlling heeling in sailing and reducing excessive tilt:

• Feathering Upwind: When sailing upwind, slightly steer the boat into the direction of the wind. This technique releases or spills wind out of the sails, decreasing the pressure and reducing heeling.
• Easing the Mainsheet or Traveler: Adjusting the mainsheet or traveler changes the angle of the mainsail, releasing wind pressure and allowing the boat to sail more upright. Experiment with different positions to find the optimal balance.
• Reefing the Sails: In strong winds, reefing the sails helps reduce their area, making them smaller and less prone to catching excessive wind. This can significantly decrease heeling and maintain control.
• Proper Sail Trim and Course Adjustment: Pay attention to sail trim by adjusting the sheets and halyards to achieve an optimal shape. Proper course adjustment ensures the boat is sailing at the correct angle to minimize heeling.

Understanding the balance between sail area, weight distribution, and wind pressure is key to controlling heeling on a sailboat. Sailors should also consider the specific design and characteristics of their boat, as well as the prevailing wind and sea conditions when making adjustments to sail trim and course.

Monitoring Wind Strength with a Masthead Wind Indicator

A masthead wind indicator can be a useful tool for sailors to monitor wind strength and make necessary adjustments. This device is typically mounted at the top of the mast and provides visual indication of wind direction and intensity. By keeping an eye on the wind indicator, sailors can quickly respond to changes in wind conditions, allowing for proactive adjustments to control heeling.

Remember, every sailboat is unique, so it may take some experimentation and practice to find the optimal combination of techniques and adjustments that work best for your specific vessel. By mastering the art of controlling heeling, you can enhance your sailing experience and ensure a safe and enjoyable journey.

Tips for Controlling Heeling in Sailing – A Quick Reference Guide

Heeling is a fundamental aspect of sailing, resulting from the force of the wind on the sails causing a sailboat to lean or tilt. Sailboats are designed to manage heeling within a certain range, and it is crucial for sailors to comprehend how to control and adjust it to ensure optimal performance and stability. By implementing techniques such as feathering upwind, adjusting sail trim, and reefing, excessive heeling can be reduced. Understanding the unique characteristics and design of your boat, as well as considering prevailing wind and sea conditions, allows for necessary adjustments and ensures a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Learning to respond effectively to heeling not only allows sailors to maintain control but also enhances their understanding of sailboat dynamics. Being aware of how heeling influences a sailboat’s behavior is vital for maintaining balance and maneuverability. Sailors must strike the right balance between heeling and stability to achieve the best sailing experience. By mastering the techniques to control heeling and making informed decisions based on prevailing conditions, sailors can navigate the waters with confidence and efficiency.

Understanding heeling in sailing is of utmost importance for sailors of all levels. It not only affects the performance and maneuverability of the boat but also ensures the safety and comfort of everyone on board. By embracing the art of sailing, sailors can harness the power of the wind while maintaining control over their vessel. So, whether you’re a seasoned sailor or new to the sport, take the time to learn and understand heeling, and embark on unforgettable sailing adventures with confidence and skill.

What is heeling in sailing?

Heeling in sailing refers to the leaning or tilting of a sailboat to either side (port or starboard) due to the force of the wind. It is a natural occurrence caused by the wind pressure on the sails.

What exactly makes a sailboat heel?

Sailboats heel when there is too much wind in the sails, causing the boat to lean over and lose some of its forward momentum. The wind pressure on the sails decreases as the boat heels, resulting in less pressure and force. The extent of heeling depends on factors such as the wind strength and the boat’s design and characteristics.

How do I keep my sailboat from heeling?

Sailors can control and reduce heeling by using various techniques such as feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails. Proper sail trim and course adjustment are also crucial for controlling heeling.

How much should a sailboat heel?

The optimal heeling angle for a sailboat is typically between 15 and 25 degrees, but this may vary depending on the specific boat design and conditions. Sailboats with keels are designed to heel over without capsizing, as the weight of the keel provides stability and helps the boat face into the wind.

How much heel is too much?

Going beyond the maximum heel angle can make the boat difficult to steer and slow it down. To reduce heeling, sailors can employ techniques such as feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails. Adjusting the sails and course according to the wind conditions is essential for maintaining control and stability while sailing.

How far can a sailboat heel before capsizing?

Sailboats with keels are designed to heel over without capsizing under normal sailing conditions. However, extreme conditions such as gale-force winds, large waves, and excessive sail area can potentially capsize a sailboat. It is important to sail within safe limits and take appropriate measures to avoid capsizing.

How to control heeling on a sailboat?

Sailors can control and reduce heeling by adjusting the sails through techniques such as feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails. Proper sail trim and course adjustment are crucial for maintaining control and stability. It is important to consider the specific boat design and characteristics, as well as the prevailing wind and sea conditions, when adjusting sail trim and course.

Source Links

• https://www.godownsize.com/sailboat-heeling-simple-terms/
• https://sailingellidah.com/sailboat-heeling/
• https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/heeling-explained.144031/

Nicholas Finn

I've been the captain of a fishing boat for over 20 years, and I created Pirateering to share my knowledge of and interest in seafaring.

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More From Forbes

This is the coolest sailboat race in the world that you’ve probably never heard of until now.

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19-year-old Cole Brauer is in second place in the Global Solo Challenge

You’ve probably never heard of The Global Solo Challenge that began when dozens of solo sailors departed A Coruña, Spain on budget-friendly, environmentally conscious boats last August. So, you probably had no clue that Frenchman Philippe Delamare just “won” the race to be the first competitor to complete a solo-non-stop-circumnavigation of the world by the three great capes after spending an incredible 147 days at sea. And you probably had no idea that he finished the race as a winter storm battered the Spanish coast where the fleet started from back in August either.

Philippe Delamare won the Global Solo Challenge after sailing non-stop around the world for just ... [+] over 147 days!

But now you do. The truth is, the Global Solo Challenge is way more than “just” another long-distance sailboat race. And the 29-year-old American woman Cole Brauer (who’s currently in second place) is way more than just another sailboat racer. In fact, she has less than 2,000 miles to go. And every mile she sails brings her closer to becoming the first American female in history to complete a solo, nonstop, circumnavigation by the three great capes. And if all goes well, she’ll enter an elite club of less than 200 sailors who have accomplished the same feat.

Cole Brauer is in second place in the Global Solo Challenge

And if you happen to be looking for a pure-feel-good-escape-story to provide a welcome distraction from your normal social media doom-scrolling, I highly recommend following her progress @colebraueroceanracing as she sails the final 1,500 miles north to the finish line.

New iOS 17.3 Update Warning Issued To All iPhone Users

No neither gmail or google pay closing down starting june 4, apple just gave millions of samsung users a reason to buy an iphone.

Here’s just a sample of the pure humanity from her Instagram feed. “Starting to cool down as I get further north! Seaweed has died down. Wind has picked up. Seastate is going further to the beam so slightly less slammy! Things are looking up! These 10 days to the finish are going to be incredibly tough but trying to appreciate every single day I have left!”

19-year-old Cole Brauer is currently in second place in the Global Solo Challenge

Her valentines day post speaks for itself. “This Valentines Day I am dedicating it to all the dream chasing, scream singing, grab life by the throat bada$$ women who never fit into the cookie cutter type of flowers and a box of chocolates. Cheers to all of you🧡”

And here, Cole draws the attention of her 419,000 instagram followers to an organization that means a lot to her. “Thank you so much for the people who have already donated into @safesailorg. I can’t thank you enough 🙏 One of my passions is shaping a positive and inclusive culture in the Sport of Sailing. Let’s work together to make our sailing community a safe and respectful space for everyone.”

But her story is just one of many from this wonderfully approachable event that reminds me that the world is bigger, and more exciting, and more inspiring than we often see on the mainstream media in an election year!

Ronnie Simpson's entry in the Global Solo Challenge was dismasted in the southern ocean

American Ronnie Simpson had rounded cape Horn and was ¾’s the way around the world when he suffered a dismasting in the notoriously dangerous southern ocean. And while he was heartbroken to retire from the race—and be rescued from his damaged boat—he also is a wonderful example of grit, determination, and human endurance that this wonderfully adventurous event brings out of competitors and inspires in fans.

“I was trying to slow the boat down, but given our reachy angle she wanted to go hull speed (9 knots) even under storm sails. Down below on my bunk, I anxiously stared at an instrument display and watched our numbers and navigation – popping up frequently to make trim and course adjustments – when we launched off of a wave. Sailing over a crossed-up triangular launch ramp in 30 gusting 40 knot winds, Shipyard Brewing launched hard off a wave. I felt it down below and grabbed the sides of my bunk to brace for the upcoming impact. Bang. Shipyard Brewing slammed down and a split-second later I heard some bad noises on deck and the boat began to flatten out. Something had clearly let go”

Simpson with some of the crew that rescued him in the Southern Ocean.

He's been dismasted and that ended the race for him. But I’m pretty sure this in not the end of his solo racing career. “Starting with an old, funky boat and no money, I managed to get to the starting line and become a viable American contender in a solo around the world race,” he said in his final blog post. “I fought for the win for the first half and fought for a podium the second half, before dismasting more than 3/4 of the way around the world and after the three Capes. I had a road map back to Europe and was looking at 3rd, or at worst, 4th place out of 16 starters and some 60 original entries.”

Go, Global Solo Challenge, Go!

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First mate's aversion to heeling

• Thread starter Todd Mitchell
• Start date Dec 8, 2000
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

Todd Mitchell

I sail a 23.5' on a beautiful little lake in the Twin Cities during our 6 month sailing season. I love sailing with my wife but she has developed a real aversion to heeling over. She's been sailing with me for seven years, mostly on bigger boats on Lake Superior, so she's seen worse than the picture-perfect days we've had this last season (our first with the 23.5). We broached good and hard in a Hunter 33' once about seven years ago up in the Apostles (my buddy's glasses are still on the lake bottom after that one). Never again since then, however, and we certainly haven't knocked down. I have striven for the shallowest deck angle possible to accomodate her...I do not care too much about speed. Unfortunately, her aversion to heeling over keeps getting worse.This came to a head at the end of the season when she finally grasped (literally) the concept of depowering the mainsail. Now I can't get the mainsheet in my hand and we're in irons on a beam reach! That last sail of the season resulted in a long motor in when the sun fell.I've tried the scientific approach, explaining sailing theory, to no avail. Any suggestions? Is there a good video out there, or first mate support groups? I would really like to prepare for the next sailing season.  

get used to it! Join the club! Don't know of anyway/anyone who has ever won this! Other then it is a very real fear in your wifes mind and respect it or boating will become a real hassle,just take the good with the bad and try to get some more time on the water alone or with a pal who likes to heel!  

amen I feel your pain brother...........it'll take time for her to understand that a sailboat is supposed to heel and it's a normal state. But don't push her or she'll get pissed. It'll have to come with experience.  

Lessons in control My better half also has/had adversion to heeling and it comes in her case by not feeling some control over her situation. It has been conquered by her having some lessons by a qualified teacher that understands the fear. I would suggest sailing lessons from an all women sailing school. We used to own a 23.5 and it does as you know have a tender quality about it. It does however become more stable once it reaches 10 degrees in that the water ballast then reaches a point where it is effective. Patience above all else!  

Dakota Jim Russell

Put her at the Helm Mine was had problems too. Put her at the helm so that she could feel the boat, heel, etc. Worked wonders.Only problem is that I can't get her away from the helm. Oh well, things always need fixing on the boat <grin>.But seriously, once she feels comfortable at the helm, the heeling anxiety will leave.Jim  

Heeling problems Why don't you investigate a Catamaran, your heeling problems would be over, might pick up bonus points along the way.SincerelyJean Hrab  

Thanks for the input! Thanks to all for the input! I just got off the phone with the first mate and asked that she consider an all-women sailing school.Incidentally, regarding the cat idea...we spent a few days at sea on a 32' cat a couple years ago. We experienced a very strange sensation when our "sea legs" hit us a couple hours after getting off the boat. We were accustomed to the long moments of a sloop's pitch and yawl, resulting in the pleasant sensation that one is still sailing hours later, sometimes even a day later. The short, choppy pitch and yawl of the cat resulted instead in a bout of motion sickness several hours after we got off the boat. The sail itself was marvelous for the several days we were at sea...but the drive home was dreadful. I wonder if anyone out there has had the same sensation?  

Michael Stuart

Paul housman.

Fear of Heeling Todd, We previously owned a H140. My wife's voice pitch and vocabulary peaked was the angle of heel increased. She was really uneasy about going out with me. We had both taken sailing lessons so she had an idea about heeling. This year we purchased a H260. She's not as uneasy. She told me as we heel more she looks out over the water rather than at the angle of heel in front of the boat. Seems to help her I guess due to the fact the heel doesn't seem as apparent the farther away from the boat you look. Of course she still holds on to the sides pretty tight. Tried letting her at the helm but she gets really anxious when other boats approach or are in close proximity. . She hasn't thrown in the towel though. We'll try next season because believe it or not she loves sailing.Paul HS/V Linda Belle  

heeling , Nice to know we are not alone, do not know of many women who are all that comfortable with the heeling aspect of sailing, We have simply learned to reef sooner than needed, and some days wife decides to stay dockside,She may be less uncomfortable than she was at one time , but she will never get entirely used to it, it does help some what when she has tiller, but at some point , she hands it over to me, life is all about compromise, i guess, and we should be thankful that our wives share our passion at least on calm days, in that they are more understanding about our trips to west marine, good luck, Mike B  

Heeling My wife has the same fear of heeling, it has gotten better with time on the water. I have suggested to her to take a sailing course or take the tiller more often to feel more in control but she doesn't want to do either. We are moving up to a Hunter 290 from a 23.5 and with a larger boat hope this will ease her fears. Otherwise I will have to do more single handed sailing.  

Dakota Jim is Correct... My wife has done a 360 on this subject. Got our H240 in 99 and she had a great deal of fear. Gave her the tiller this last season and she is completely (almost)comfortable with heeling as part of the package. She took 2nd place in the Labor Day Races - turns out she is more competitive than I am.Hope this helps...Thanks,Charlie"Good Medicine"  

Heel angle I totally sympathise with Todd's wife. When I first sailing on displacement boats the heel angle was very distressing. Something about seeing all that accommodation– sinks, doors, curtains, books, etc. down there– on the wrong angle can be profoundly unsettling.I learned from by dad the basic principles of why a boat heels and most importantly the idea that in normal weather, there is no way an even nominally well-sailed boat can possible go over. This is what we came to call the 'ever so much more so' rule– the more it heels, the more it wants to come right again. This is a fact of physics and not dependent on our perception (or fear) of it.I am glad that Todd has at last tried to explain this to his wife. Also, it's obvious she is not sitting down below squawking like a scared chicken– that's the worst place for her. Her grasp of the mainsheet as 'roll control' is a good sign. Maybe one might buy an inclinometer and put it where she can see it– which is where it should be anyway, for the mainsheet controller. Show her various angles of heel and what they are like, and then make a deal with her, like if it goes past 18 degrees she can dump it. Then show her how little she can dump it and get away with it, thus keeping the boat moving with a little bit of luff and encouraging her to seek the best of sail trim whenever possible.I wonder too if modest racing would not help. A bit of round-the-buoys competitiveness might show her that losing can feel worse than mild and temporary discomfort– then again that may be a GUY thing!As adults we have to objectively accept the true facts of our environments and that these CAN be understood and we CAN become comfortable with them given the right frame of mind. I readily realise that that many of my father's designs tend to heel soon and a lot– it's a factor of having more sail than they need and a tendency to be lighter than many others out there. But the heel angle will prove to be finite and predictable.I acknowledge that for some people only experience will convince them. I only hope Mrs Todd is not one of those who greets every new experience like an entirely new experience. She needs to see that certain conditions can be predicted and assumed to be predictable. I truly hope she comes to accept that, but I admit it is a very rational viewpoint and that not everyone sees things the same way.JC  

Sailing with Compromise Todd, As you can see from the responses, you're not alone. When my wife and I married, I had a 14' day sailor. She would sit at the base of the mast with her arms and legs wrapped around it calling out our angle of heel in 5 degree increments. What a trooper. Now we have a 1996 H26 and though she sits in the cockpit with me she still gives me audible reminders of our angle of heel. The compromise we reached early on, was that half of the weekend will be spent motoring to a cove and spending the day on the hook BBQing and soaking up rays. This works out very well since she only comes with me about half the time anyway. BTW she won't hold the tiller more than a couple of minutes at a time but will go on deck for sail handling. Guess she's coming along slowly. What a trooper!!! I just won't be able to fall out of the boat till she can handle it by herself. Invest in a harness, I did."Festivity"1996 H26  

Dump her Dump the wife, buy a bigger boat, and bury the rail. Life is to short!!!  

Opposite Problem My normally mild mannered wife absolutely loves to bury the cabin windows in the water. I'm the one clinging to the companionway. She has this strange look in her eyes and a maniacal laugh as all the stuff in the cabin slides to the other side. Its scary.Alan LongS/V Random Access  

Henry Scurlock

re: opposite problem I didn't think my wife had a sister !  

Wanderer138

You must really be heeled... My stuff usually ends up on the cabin sole, not on the opposite side of the cabin! BTW, my two daughters love to bury the lee rail.PeterS/V Raven  

Take her out and let her try to dump a boat! I began sailing at 7 years old. I'm 47 now. Heeling always bothered me -- especially when I was on the downward side. A good friend came up with an idea for a cure. So I took out an 18' Flying Dutchman and tried to dump it! I thought I could just dump it in a second, but it was really not that quick and easy to do. The boat eventually went over, we got wet, we uprighted the boat, bailed out the water and sailed back to the dock. That was the last of my heeling fears. I learned a lot from the experience and knew that no matter what, I could deal with the situation. That gave me a great deal of confidence, as well as know how. I haven't dumped a boat since and I bury the rails on San Francisco Bay in my Hunter 25 every chance I get. I'm quite comfortable even in the ugliest situations because I know that if something does happen, I'm prepared to deal with it and can handle it. It's worth a try. Maybe start with a Laser!Good Luck!  

THANKS! Thanks to all of you for the postings. It is encouraging to know that I am not alone! I will share your opinions (except for the "dump her" idea) with my wife. We're working on our fourteenth year of marriage, and I can't imagine sailing without her.Thanks again!  

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