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Understanding the anchor ball

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OK so I am studying more about nav lights and the USCG rules. In one of their documents it states: A black ball day shape must be displayed by ALL vessels when anchored during the day. True or false and if true, I see a ton of vessels not displaying this. My sailboat is 26' if that matters. I understand the other nav rules fine and the all around anchor light at night but just have to wrap my head around the anchor ball rule and the inverted cone rule. Keep in mind I am new to sailing, bought an O'Day 26 and fixing it up this year and will launch next spring. I have the mast down now and was thinking about changing out the mast head light to LED. I have already replaced all 5 lights in the cabin to LED and installed a new fuse panel. Oh and regarding the all around light, my bow and stern lights are on the rails but an all around light by rule is supposed to be a meter higher than those lights--really? If so that means I buy a 3 foot long removable all around light to be within this ruling when anchored at night.  

Markwesti

Day shapes are a hoot . When anchored (day time) you must display a black ball if you are 20 meters or more . As for your all around white light ( at night ) yes you need one . It can be mast head , it can be your steamer and stern white light or this . https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=colregs+anchor+light&tbm=shop&spd=10346875300852990465 PS .Please verify this , but I think I'm at least pretty close .  

davidpm

The way I read it: (b) A vessel of less than 50 meters in length may exhibit an all-round white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in Rule 30(a). Vessels at Anchor I don't see how the stern light and the steaming light would work because the stern light is on the same switch usually with navigation lights and to have the navigation lights on when anchored would be a violation. Also the where best can be seen clause would certainly be litigated if someone hit you. Probably better than nothing if your anchor light was out and you covered the red and green. But as was said before the courts assign more blame whenever it can be showed you did even the slightest thing wrong.  

Day shapes are not used much, at least around me. In fact I have never seen one. I know there are those around here that say they use them, I just have not seen it.  

RichH

In admiralty court, if another boat crashes into you when you dont have the proper dayshape (anchor ball) aloft, you are assessed more contributory damage penalties (percent) towards the cause of the mishap. Case law in admiralty court seems to support such - AFIK.  

capta

My understanding of the anchoring day shape is this; Anchored; Ball > 7m (not in channel) > 20m (in anchorage).  

When the situation required it I just slipped a scotsman in to a big garbage bag and hoisted up the forestay a ways. Although under 20 m I was often anchored in unusual places for scientific sampling as part of the working charter.  

BarryL

Hey, Around here (Long Island Sound) I almost never see day shapes. Never on small boats when anchoring. Just this past weekend I did see a commercial fishing boat (around 50') displaying a day shape for fishing. I was impressed. Then, when I got back to the marina, I saw two other fishing boats with the same day shape - but these boats were tied in a slip. No dayshapes used around here. B  

Vessels with professional operators will display the dayshapes.  

Bruce3966 said: OK so I am studying more about nav lights and the USCG rules. In one of their documents it states: A black ball day shape must be displayed by ALL vessels when anchored during the day. True or false and if true, I see a ton of vessels not displaying this. My sailboat is 26' if that matters. I understand the other nav rules fine and the all around anchor light at night but just have to wrap my head around the anchor ball rule and the inverted cone rule. Keep in mind I am new to sailing, bought an O'Day 26 and fixing it up this year and will launch next spring. I have the mast down now and was thinking about changing out the mast head light to LED. I have already replaced all 5 lights in the cabin to LED and installed a new fuse panel. Oh and regarding the all around light, my bow and stern lights are on the rails but an all around light by rule is supposed to be a meter higher than those lights--really? If so that means I buy a 3 foot long removable all around light to be within this ruling when anchored at night. Click to expand...
30 (e) A vessel of less than 7 meters in length, when at anchor not in or near a narrow channel, fairway or where other vessels normally navigate, shall not be required to exhibit the shape prescribed in Rule 30(a) and (b). Click to expand...
6. Shapes (a) Shapes shall be black and of the following sizes: (i) a ball shall have a diameter of not less than 0.6 meter; (ii) a cone shall have a base diameter of not less than 0.6 meter and a height equal to its diameter; (iii)a cylinder shall have a diameter of at least 0.6 meter and a height of twice its diameter; (iv)a diamond shape shall consist of two cones as defined in (ii) above having a common base. (b) The vertical distance between shapes shall be at least 1.5 meter. (c) In a vessel of less than 20 meters in length shapes of lesser dimensions but commensurate with the size of the vessel may be used and the distance apart may be correspondingly reduced Click to expand...
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Using an Anchor Ball

  • By Kevin Falvey
  • Updated: November 10, 2010

sailboat anchor ball

Having a windlass beats weighing anchor with your back by a measured mile. Yet a windlass costs some bucks, and not all boats have the space to fit one. Also, the slow drop of a power-out windlass makes it difficult to anchor precisely, compared with the speed with which a free-dropped anchor hits the bottom. Add learning new techniques and having a backup plan should the windlass break, and you’ve got the impetus for this instructional on using an anchor ball.

What Is It? An anchor ball is a round fender with enough buoyancy to support a rode and anchor. A 20-inch-diameter ball has approximately 180 pounds of buoyancy and is the most popular size used by seasoned skippers. To this ball, it’s common to affix a three-foot trace of line (but see tip later). At the other end of the trace, attach a large carabiner snap. To this snap, connect a specialized piece of equipment called an anchor ring.

The Theory Using an anchor ball is like heaving a line over a tree branch and connecting one end to a truck’s hitch in order to raise a heavy weight at the other end. Since limbs are rare on the water, run the rode through the ring, which is supported by the buoyancy of the ball. The boat is the truck, the ring and ball the limb.

The Practice To haul anchor, place the anchor ring around the rode and snap the line to it. The snap connects the ball and also “closes” the ring, capturing the rode. Now power toward the anchor, angling off just a bit so you’re not quite running parallel to the rode. (1) A good, fast troll that provides confident steerage is fine.

You pass the anchor, which of course is on the bottom, and continue until the ball, with the rode captured in the ring, slides by the boat. Needless to say, you have to be careful not to run over the rode and foul the props. Here’s a tip I use to avoid that: Snap the ring tight to the ball instead of using the three-foot line. With a long trace, the rode is three feet below the surface. But with a short trace, the ring is only a foot down, and so the rode is closer to the surface and above the level of most props.

Also, at this point I would have a crew member standing by to grab the rode as the ball passes by, bring it aboard and belay it to a stern cleat. With the rode tied at the stern, and you moving the boat forward, the chance for tangles are virtually eliminated.

Note that if you are solo, or don’t have solid crew aboard, you can leave the rode secured at the bow and continue heading forward. In that case, extra care is required on your part to avoid fouling the rode.

Crew or not, as you continue forward, the ball will descend the rode, and submerge as the anchor breaks free. The combination of the ball’s bouyancy and the boat’s pull lifts and yanks the anchor out backward, and the anchor surfaces with great commotion in the wake, with the flukes neatly hanging in the ring. Now all you do is haul in the virtually weightless ground tackle, or back up toward it if you like. (2)

As with any technique, it’s prudent to practice in clear, open water a few times before doing it for real. It’s easy as pie once you try.

  • More: anchoring , How-To , Seamanship

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Is the anchor ball mandatory?

sailboat anchor ball

I just dropped my anchor. How do I report it? Should I install this famous "anchor ball"? Is it mandatory? Not many boaters hoist these gears. Rightly or wrongly? What do the texts say about it?

François-Xavier Ricardou

As you may have seen, some boats approach a black ball set high up when they're at anchor . We see it a lot on large boats, yachts , but among boaters, few comply with this regulation.

Moreover, since the introduction of Division 240 (2008), which sets out the safety rules applicable to pleasure boating at sea on vessels up to 24 m in length, this anchor ball is no longer part of the mandatory equipment to be carried on board.

Then you have to ask yourself, "Establishing a ball when you're at anchor in the daytime: Is it still mandatory?"

Boule de mouillage

RIPAM intervenes

Article 240-2.09 relating to the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea ( RIPAM ) states that " Pleasure craft are required to comply with the provisions made applicable, depending on the ship's characteristics, by Decree 77-733 of 6 July 1977 publishing the Convention on the International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea, 1972, done at London on 20 October 1972. "

In short, ships, even pleasure craft, must comply with these regulations. Therefore, if the characteristics of the vessel require that an anchor ball be carried by the RIPAM , it must be on board in application of article 240-2.09.

Boule de mouillage

What exactly does RIPAM say?

According to RIPAM , Rule No. 30, it is stipulated that ".. that a vessel at anchor of less than 50 metres in length shall show, in the most visible place, a white light visible over the whole horizon or a ball.

Vessels less than 7 metres in length, when at anchor, are not required to show the lights or mark (ball), unless they are at anchor in a narrow channel, approach or anchorage, at proximité? from these locations, or on routes normally used by other vessels. "

Boule de mouillage

How to establish his ball?

On a sailboat , installing a mooring ball is done by hoisting it in front of the mast (often suspended by a halyard under the forestay). But on a motorboat, it is much more complicated. Depending on the boat , a solution will have to be found so that the ball is set up forward and visible. So complicated that most boaters do not need to install it..

Boule de mouillage

What if you don't have your ball?

Apart from the fact that you may find yourself confronted with a zealous policeman who is entitled to impose a fine (it's rare, but it happens...), the mooring ball indicates that your boat is at a standstill, not manoeuvring and with no one on watch.

On the insurance side, it can also play tricks. A yachtsman who had disembarked saw his boat at anchor being hit by another vessel. His insurance company declared the vessel at the anchorage responsible because it did not have an anchor ball. He should then have kept an active lookout as stipulated in RIPAM for vessels under way... Will you also hoist your ball at the next anchorage?

sailboat anchor ball

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sailboat anchor ball

How To: Basic Anchoring and Anchoring Etiquette

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Cruising Tips , Learn To Sail

Quite a long time ago…decades ago. I sailed over to Catalina Island from my marina near ASA headquarters. I was young. It was my first time embarking across the channel. My crew was a good friend and his cousin who was celebrating his 21st birthday. They drank beers the entire time. 

In simple terms, I was a solo sailor.  I was also young and irresponsible.  Why admit to this? Well, we all were young once and we all made dumb decisions. Own it and learn from it.

Did I understand anchoring? No. Up to that point, I had only ever picked up a mooring ball once in my sailing life.  This was way before Youtube videos explained how to drop the hook.

Frankly, ASA bite-sized lesson on Anchoring Basics would have been perfect for me.

ASA 101 Basic Keelboat sailing will prepare you for Basic Anchoring principles. However, let’s refresh some of that knowledge on how to drop and set an anchor on a sailboat.

First, a few basic anchoring tips to start:

  • Make sure you know where the anchor is stowed.
  • Make sure you know how to get it in the water safely.
  • Make sure you know how much rode you need to pay out. 
  • Make sure you know how to make the rode fast on deck.

Basic Anchoring

Anchors work by digging themselves into the seabed. To do this, they need the rode to pull at an angle closer to horizontal than to vertical. 

Anchoring Vocabulary:

  • Rode:   The rope and/or chain that connects it to the boat
  • Scope:  The ratio of the length of rode let out to the depth of water. 
  • Make Fast: To secure, as when typing a line to a cleat.

Sailing Made Easy Diagram

As you drop the anchor you will need to pay out a significant amount of rode to allow for the rode to pull at an angle that is close to horizontal.  This is called the scope.  Typically, a 7 to 1 ratio works.  This number will get adjusted depending on conditions. (A lesson learned in ASA 103, ASA 104)  

To arrive at the right length of rode to let out, you add the height of the boat’s bow above the water to the depth. For example, if the depth is 10 feet and the freeboard at the bow is 4 feet, the length of rode needed for 7:1 scope will be (10 + 4) x 7 = 98 feet.

TIP : “When in doubt let in out” works well in anchoring.

Stand well clear of the anchor rode when letting go of the anchor—anchors are heavy, fall quickly through the water, and the rode can cause, at the least, a nasty rope burn

Anchoring: Step-By -Step

  • Approach your chosen spot for anchoring by bringing the boat to a stop, head to wind. 
  • With the boat stopped, lower the anchor and pay out the rode as the boat blows downwind.
  • When enough rode has been let out, make the rode fast.
  • The anchor will take hold and the boat will lie head to the wind or current.
  • The anchor is set.

sailboat anchor ball

Anchoring Etiquette

A few years ago Sail-World.com published a great article on Anchor Etiquette and it is still very relevant.

1. The first boat sets the precedent:

If you arrive in an anchorage and find that all the boats have a stern anchor set, that’s now the rule. If the first one there is a cabin cruiser that yaws all over the place and they have 60 metres of rode out in five feet of water, they have set the precedent. Any subsequent comers will need to give them room.

2. Watch your Wake:

Entering an anchorage or a mooring area is like moving into a new neighborhood. Enter at a slow speed, less than five knots, to avoid making a wake that might upset their sundowner drinks or the bits from the winch they were servicing, or dinner preparations. This also applies to dinghies when traveling close to anchored boats – and in most countries, it’s the law anyway.

3. Give yourself, and other boats room:

Look at the wind in the anchorage and try to work out where the anchors of other boats are lying. Cruise through the anchorage a couple of times to assess the situation. Calling out to find out how much chain the boat has out is an indicator that you are aware of swing patterns and will attempt to place your boat so that it is not in the way of another boat. There’s also some self-preservation here too, as you may want to stay clear of potential party boats, or the boat with that very noisy wind generator. Remember, if he was here first, you are the one who has to move.

4. Watch the ‘Magnet Effect’:

A boat already anchored seems to attract the next boat to anchor right next to it, even though there is an enormous empty bay to anchor in. Try not to do this, and, if you were there first, it is your right to speak to a boat that arrives after you and ask them to move if you feel that they are too close.

5. Buoy your anchor:

In a crowded anchorage, it’s a good idea to buoy your anchor – place a floating marker on your anchor so that you, and others, know where it is. There’s nothing worse than tangled anchors, particularly if you have to make a hasty departure because of deteriorating conditions. (Of course, you have to keep a small watch to make sure your first-time sailor doesn’t arrive and try to pick it up as a mooring ball.)

6. Sound carries far:

Voices, music, engine noise, especially outboard motors, unmuffled go-fast boats, ski boats, jet skis, generators, barking dogs and the dreaded ringing telephone are all examples of the egregious disruption of anchorage serenity. Common sense should prevail in predicting what will not be appreciated and protecting the serenity for the common good.

7. Keep Bow to Cockpit communications civil:

It’s not the anchoring, or the need to re-anchor, which separates the beginners from the experts. It is the amount of yelling and chaos that breaks out between the person handling the anchor and the person maneuvering the boat. Boating is the only sport that requires T-shirts that proclaim ‘Don’t yell at me!’ Either develop a set of hand signals or better still, use some inexpensive walkie-talkies, so that at least your comments on the abilities of your other crew member will be kept on your boat.

8. Think of your neighbors AND the environment:

The smell of burgers on the grill might be a marvelous aroma for most, but really smelly cooking upwind of a boatload of vegetarians may be a cause for some strong sentiments. Don’t go into a crowded anchorage full of pristine water and then not use the holding tank! – It’s really not a good scene for swimmers in the water. And it can ruin your whole day to find yourself swimming with rotten tomatoes or floating banana skins.

9. Be careful with lights at night:

When anchored at night always have an anchor light on (black ball during the day), when looking for an anchorage don’t shine a strong beam directly into another boat’s cockpit, and don’t be the boat that’s lit up like a football field deep into the night when all else in the anchorage are trying to sleep.

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Essential tips when using an anchor

  • Katy Stickland
  • March 19, 2018

Duncan Wells passes on the benefit of years spent at anchor with his definitive guide to the do's and don't's of dropping the hook

Anchor

Entrusting your boat and the lives of her crew to a piece of metal you can't see can be unnerving Credit: Graham Snook/YM

Avoid a lee shore

Make sure that you are not about to anchor on what is or may become a lee shore, with the wind blowing onto the shore. If your anchor drags and the engine fails to start, you will need enough room to leeward to set the sails and begin to claw your way off the shore. Always anchor on a weather shore, where the wind is coming off the land. Check the forecast to make sure that any wind shift during your stay will not put you on a lee shore.

Check the chart for restrictions

You can anchor anywhere you like, except in a fairway, a channel or a prohibited or restricted area. An anchor sign on the chart marks a popular anchorage. An anchor with a cross through it tells you anchoring is not allowed. Don’t anchor in oyster or mussel beds.

Check the sea bed

Anchor

Sand and gravel: not ideal for anchoring

See what the chart says about the sea bed. Is it suitable for your anchor? Here’s a general guide:

Mud Good for most anchor types , but those with a large surface area will be more reliable

Silt Good for most anchor types

Clay Once set, holding is good for most anchors. An anchor with a sharp tip will set more readily

Sand Variable, depending on sand hardness but an anchor with a large surface area is preferable

Gravel, rock and weed These bottom types are generally unsuitable for anchoring

Check the depth

Will you still be afloat at Low Water? Have you let out enough cable to remain anchored at High Water? Even if you can get this from your GPS, mobile phone, or tablet, I’d still check it with the almanac and the relevant tidal curve. Allow enough under-keel clearance at Low Water.

Care for your ground tackle

Anchor

Attach the bitter end of the anchor chain or warp with a thin line that can be cut easily

Check the condition of your anchor and cable. Is the bitter end lashed to the boat? Never attach it with a shackle. Instead, use a lashing or thin boat rope that you can cut quickly with a knife if you need to lose the anchor and cable in a hurry. The anchor itself should be quickly deployable, attached to the boat by a lashing or a split pin.

Anchor

Attach the anchor to the yacht via a retaining pin or lashing, but ensure that it’s quickly deployable

Is your cable entirely chain, or is it a rope and chain combination? Rope, when we use it for anchoring or mooring, is called warp. In a combination, we always have 10m of chain between the anchor and the warp. You are going to trust your boat and your life to the anchor and the cable, so always check the recommended weight of anchor and gauge of chain or warp for your tonnage of boat. Err on the side of caution.

Measure the scope

Anchor

I use silks tied to the chain in the order of how you’d pot snooker balls (yellow, brown and pink are at the others end of these flakes)

Veering (letting out) the correct amount of cable is key and often where things go wrong. The textbook says, rightly, that you need a minimum of four times the depth for chain and six times depth for warp. In the real world, it’s easy to get confused, but you really have to know how much cable you have out.

There are different systems of marking the cable, but I use silks tied into the chain. They don’t interfere with the chain on the windlass gypsy and if you use warp, you can thread them through a strand or bind coloured cotton around it. Silks are also easier on your hands than plastic cable ties and more durable than painted chain links.

Anchor

With warp, you can thread the silks through a strand or bind coloured cotton around it

Then you need a code. You could run the colours alphabetically, every 5m. I use the order in which one pots snooker balls! No, I don’t play, I just seem to have remembered this. So on my yacht it goes like this: red 5m, yellow 10m, green 15m, brown 20m, blue 25m, pink 30m, black 35m, then double up two red for 40m, two yellow for 45m and so on. Put this code inside the foredeck locker so all the crew know how it works.

Anchor

Display an anchor ball by day to show other vessels you’re not under way

You need to display an anchor ball by day and an all-round white light by night. When I arrive at an anchorage in the dark, I set the anchor ball as well as the light, so I don’t have to get up at dawn.

Watch for swinging

If you’re joining other boats at an anchorage, see how they are lying and try to estimate how much cable they’ve got out (going on height of tide). Then you can allow enough swinging room for changes in the direction of wind and tide. Long-keel boats will lie to the tide more than the wind. Yachts with a short fin keel and high topsides may lie to the wind more than the tide.

Guard against dragging

Use transits ashore, or bearings to marks, or a GPS anchor alarm to check if you are holding. I simply put a hand on the cable outside the bow roller from time to time. If all is quiet, it’s holding.

Use a snubber

Anchor

This snubbing line prevents the chain from snatching and takes strain off the windlass

Attach a length of line, stretchy nylon preferably, to the chain using a rolling hitch, then make the line fast to a cleat and run the chain out until it goes slack and the tension is taken on the line. Apart from taking the pressure off your expensive windlass, this also acts as a snubber.

Anchor

In a swell, put a split pin or lashing across the bow roller to stop the chain jumping out

If there is any swell, put a split pin between the bow roller cheeks or tie a lashing across to stop the cable from jumping out.

If you’re taking care of all of the above, you should be able to relax at anchor. Once I feel I’m well anchored, I’ll sleep right through the night. It can be a good idea to wake in order to watch the boat through the turn of tide, but with experience of your anchor and of different conditions, you’ll be able to gauge how necessary this is.

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  • Safety Tips

Using an Anchor Ball

  • By Kevin Falvey
  • June 20, 2012

Anchor Ball diagram

Having a windlass beats weighing anchor with your back by a measured mile. Yet a windlass costs some bucks, and not all boats have the space to fit one. Also, the slow drop of a power-out windlass makes it difficult to anchor precisely, compared with the speed with which a free-dropped anchor hits the bottom. Add learning new techniques and having a backup plan should the windlass break, and you’ve got the impetus for this instructional on using an anchor ball.

What Is It?

An anchor ball is a round fender with enough buoyancy to support a rode and anchor. A 20-inch-diameter ball has approximately 180 pounds of buoyancy and is the most popular size used by seasoned skippers. To this ball, it’s common to affix a three-foot trace of line (but see tip later). At the other end of the trace, attach a large carabiner snap. To this snap, connect a specialized piece of equipment called an anchor ring.

Using an anchor ball is like heaving a line over a tree branch and connecting one end to a truck’s hitch in order to raise a heavy weight at the other end. Since limbs are rare on the water, run the rode through the ring, which is supported by the buoyancy of the ball. The boat is the truck, the ring and ball the limb.

The Practice

To haul anchor, place the anchor ring around the rode and snap the line to it. The snap connects the ball and also “closes” the ring, capturing the rode. Now power toward the anchor, angling off just a bit so you’re not quite running parallel to the rode. (1) A good, fast troll that provides confident steerage is fine.

You pass the anchor, which of course is on the bottom, and continue until the ball, with the rode captured in the ring, slides by the boat. Needless to say, you have to be careful not to run over the rode and foul the props. Here’s a tip I use to avoid that: Snap the ring tight to the ball instead of using the three-foot line. With a long trace, the rode is three feet below the surface. But with a short trace, the ring is only a foot down, and so the rode is closer to the surface and above the level of most props.

Also, at this point I would have a crew member standing by to grab the rode as the ball passes by, bring it aboard and belay it to a stern cleat. With the rode tied at the stern, and you moving the boat forward, the chance for tangles are virtually eliminated.

Note that if you are solo, or don’t have solid crew aboard, you can leave the rode secured at the bow and continue heading forward. In that case, extra care is required on your part to avoid fouling the rode.

Crew or not, as you continue forward, the ball will descend the rode, and submerge as the anchor breaks free. The combination of the ball’s bouyancy and the boat’s pull lifts and yanks the anchor out backward, and the anchor surfaces with great commotion in the wake, with the flukes neatly hanging in the ring. Now all you do is haul in the virtually weightless ground tackle, or back up toward it if you like. (2)

As with any technique, it’s prudent to practice in clear, open water a few times before doing it for real. It’s easy as pie once you try.

The U.S. Coast Guard is asking all boat owners and operators to help reduce fatalities, injuries, property damage, and associated healthcare costs related to recreational boating accidents by taking personal responsibility for their own safety and the safety of their passengers. Essential steps include: wearing a life jacket at all times and requiring passengers to do the same; never boating under the influence (BUI); successfully completing a boating safety course; and getting a Vessel Safety Check (VSC) annually from local U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, United States Power Squadrons(r), or your state boating agency’s Vessel Examiners. The U.S. Coast Guard reminds all boaters to “Boat Responsibly!” For more tips on boating safety, visit www.uscgboating.org .

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Anchor Trip-line Tricks

Sometimes, reversing the anchor-setting process is the only way out..

sailboat anchor ball

An anchor trip line is a stout line connected from the after end of the anchor fluke to a marker buoy so that the anchor can later be retrieved. The length of the line is adjusted to be straight up and down at high tide level so that the float marks the approximate position of the anchor.

If the anchor snags on a rock or harbor debris, you have a fair chance of pulling it out backwards by hauling on the trip line. Additionally, others can see where you anchor is, estimate how much rode you have out, and stay clear of your rode and berth. In some areas a marker is considered a courtesy. In others, you risk vilification for taking up too much space and creating a fouling hazard for boats passing by. How do we decide whether a anchor buoy is worth the trouble?

First, let’s make it clear that this is a rare practice in most anchorages where cruisers frequent. The risk of serious anchor fouling in most popular anchorages in the United States is remote. Probably the biggest risk any cruiser will face is in big cities and urban areas where junk litters the bottom. The one time my anchor fouled in a popular anchorage it hooked on a shopping cart. The risk of hanging up on bottom trash will increase in areas that have recently suffered a hurricane or severe flooding event. Flooded reservoirs also hold their share of surprises.

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

TRIP LINE DOWNSIDES

There are downsides. Another boat could snag your float, trip your anchor and tangle the two of you together. In slack wind or places with reversing tidal currents, you might float up over the buoy and snag it on your prop or rudder. Some worry that some idiot will tie to it, thinking it is a mooring ball, but this is not likely unless you paint it to look like one. Some sailors argue that using a trip line reduces the number of boats that can fit into a crowded harbor.

There are times, however, when it’s a good idea. You suspect the bottom is foul and it’s too deep, cold, or risky to dive down and free the anchor. It’s a remote area, so the risk of fouling another boat or monopolizing space is moot. Or perhaps you are just learning to set two anchors in a V and could use a visual reference (see “ Doubling Up: Full-size Tandem Anchoring ,” PS September 2016.)

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

1. This deeply buried Rocna anchor bent under side loads.

We’ve used all of these methods. When testing anchors in brown water areas we often rig floats to make it easier to dive on anchors to investigate. We use them in areas littered with submerged trees, and they’ve saved a scary swim a few times. (Free diving around submerged trees and branches in a strong tide is a good way to get trapped and drown.) Rocky areas with tilted slabs are notorious for grabbing anchors. Let’s look at the pluses and minuses of using a trip line, and what works and what doesn’t.

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

RISK OF ENTANGLEMENT

Eventually, you will drift over your buoy. Late arrivals will run over it. Someone will swing over it. Like a crab pot marker, most of the time it will slide by, but sometimes it’s going to catch on the rudder, prop, or keel.

A break-away “fuse” link between the float and trip line can help resolve keel and rudder snags, but the link must be strong enough handle the expected loads before connecting the trip line to your boat for retrieval. About a foot of 40-pound-test fishing line can work. This won’t help with a turning prop, which will started reeling in the “fuse.” And there is always the chance that the fuse won’t break, and the prop (possibly your own) will suck up the retrieval line. Next thing you know, you are dragging across the anchorage with a fouled prop.

Another option is that the floating line can end 5-8 feet below the surface. Entanglement is prevented, and though the line does not reach the surface, but in warm clear waters you can swim down and clip on an extension for retrieval.

When using the sub-surface approach, some skip the float and just use a floating polypropylene line, but if there is any current, it usually pulls the line to the bottom. We’ve tested this and just 0.2 knots will pull polypropylene line close to the bottom.

Obviously, the float used for this sub-surface approach must not have so much buoyancy that it will pull up the anchor. Small net floats will typically have less than 1/2–pound flotation and come in bright colors.

For retrieval, you’ll need to go for a swim, so the water must be clear, the conditions safe, and you’ll want to have a wet suit or dry suit if the water temperature is chilly. This no float approach might be good idea for potential snag areas with clear water and regular boat traffic

HOW BIG A FLOAT?

If the float is too small, you increase the chance another boater will snag it. It should not look like local lobster pot, crab pot marker, or trot line marker. Don’t paint it like mooring ball (white with blue stripe) or pick-up float (often white with red stripe), or someone might tie to it. Labeling it “ Anchor Trip Line ” can’t hurt.

MARKING AN ANCHOR FOR LATER RECOVERY

One reason some people justify using a trip line is to mark the anchor’s location after they’ve cast off their rode to make a hasty departure. For example, if there’s a boat dragging down on you in a sudden squall. We don’t think this is a good reason to routinely use a trip line. If you find yourself in such a situation, you can just tie a big fender to the end of the rode when you cast it off.

Anchor Trip-line Tricks

HOW LONG A TRIP LINE?

Obviously, you need to be able to snag the trip line with a boat hook, pull it on deck, and attach an extension. The line must be the depth of the water at high tide, plus freeboard, plus some allowance for recovery angle (you may not be right over the anchor). And you must allow for a working length on deck.

If the anchor buries deeply in soft mud or pulls under an obstruction, it will be pulled down, requiring a additional 5 to 10 feet. Assuming 6 feet of tide, you probably need 15-20 feet of excess line vs. low tide. If the water is 6 feet deep at low tide, that places the float 22 feet away from the anchor. In 20 feet if water the float will be 31 feet off station.

In the above scenario, the marker may be closer to your boat, blown by the wind—a good thing. But if there is tide, it is just as likely to be farther away, suggesting to any passerby that you have way too much scope out. In an isolated cove, the only places we have used tripping lines while cruising, these details don’t really matter. The trick is to avoid floating over the marker.

The trip line can be made to be self adjusting. Place a small block under the float and thread the tail of the trip line through it. Then tie a 4- to 8-ounce fishing weight to the end of the trip line. The weight will pull the tail down and keep the float nearly vertical over the anchor. The float must be large enough to support the weight, and a stopper knot will keep the trip line from pulling out back through the block.

CHOOSING TRIP LINE MATERIAL

Polyester works well. There is no need for the trip line to float and polyester holds up far better than polypropylene. We like 3/16-inch (5 mm) Dyneema. It is more compact, runs well through the self adjusting block,—if that is your choice—and is strong enough to recover any anchor. It is harder to handle, but that’s what the extension is for, and you only need to break the anchor out, not haul it aboard. Of course, if it snags or winds up in a prop, it is that much harder to cut. Your call.

LIFTING CHAIN OR TREE BRANCH

Most of the times we have snagged, we were able to winch the obstruction to near the surface. Large limbs that drift over the anchor with the tide are our nemesis.

Tripping the Anchor. Often we can fish a dockline around the roll bar, slack the rode a few feet, and dump the limb. If the snag looked complicated, or if the anchor didn’t have a roll bar, we would take the extra time to attach the tripping line to the tripping eye instead of the roll bar; that way the anchor will turn upside down and drop the snag every time.

Saw. Sometimes there are just too many branches to get a clean drop, and cutting a few away is simpler. A hacksaw works. A wood saw or onehand pruning saw works better, and both have other uses on a cruising boat.

AVOID CABLES AREAS

In principle the cable is deeply buried in the mud, but cruisers have hooked them. These areas are easily identified by signs on shore, markings on maps, and the obvious lack of anchored boats. If you pull up a cable, and we know people who have, put the anchor back down and cut the rode. It’s an expensive lesson to learn the hard way.

CONCLUSIONS

We very seldom rig an anchor marker or trip line. When we do, we keep it simple but strong, knowing there is little chance we will actually use it, but knowing that when we need it, half measures won’t do. A 3/16-inch Dyneema line of fixed length (12 feet) to a small float works for us, since we anchor in less than 8 feet of water 98 percent of the time. Simple. If we frequented deeper water we might try the self-adjusting type, but probably not, because we know we would very seldom use it and we like simplicity. Slide retrieval “descender” rings? When we really need a trip line, the rode always seems to be under a slab or surrounded by branches. We don’t want to fool with a less robust system.

We always keep snorkeling gear and clothing (wet suit or dry suit) appropriate to the water temperature on board for the full range of possibilities; a rope around the prop, bad weather, and MOB. Anything. We consider this basic boat gear.

But the usefulness of such equipment for retrieving an anchor depends on being an experienced free diver. Don’t dive on a fouled anchor unless you are experienced, fit, properly equipped, and have fully evaluated the situation; it can range from a pleasant dip in tropical waters to a dark nightmare with entrapment hazards.

Leaving the anchor for later pickup may be the smart move. You gave it a good effort and it’s stuck. A change in weather may dictate that it’s time to go, or perhaps it’s simply time to go home. If you think you may recover it later, tie a large fender to the end of the rode and let it go. But if it’s really fouled and you’re far from home, is it worth the money to hire a diver at the time to come back? Probably not. Pull the rode vertically, cut the chain with bolt cutters (another essential piece of gear), and use your kedge until you can buy a replacement. It’s only an anchor, and the shackle and first 10-20 feet of rode were probably worn anyway. Better than a dangerous dive.

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I’ve created and have been using a “hidden trip line” as a full time cruiser who anchors most of the time in the PNW for 3 years now and am happy with this strategy. Here’s how it works-

Materials needed-

– Dyneema line (because it’s strong and floats) with eye splices on each end. I have two lengths, 30′ and 60′ that covers almost all of the depths I anticipate anchoring in. – Two carabiners- large to attach to anchor, smaller to attach to chain

Deployment-

Step one- attach the large carabiner to the head of the anchor. Most anchors have a hole for a trip line or tandem anchoring. You can use the roll bar or cross bar or drill a hole if needed.

Step two- attach the dyneema line to the anchor-side carabiner that is 5 feet or more longer than the depth at high tide. You don’t want it too long so the bight floats high enough to get snagged by passing boaters. My 30′ line gets the most use.

Step three- Attach the smaller carabiner to the other end.

Step four- drop anchor/chain, paying out the line at the same time and stop to attach the boat-side end a couple of feet short of the length of the line. For my 30′ line I stop when the 30′ marker reaches the windlass and attach at 27′ or so.

Step five- deploy the rest of the rode and set as normal.

And that’s it. Takes longer to explain than to actually do it. The “hidden trip line” will float above the chain and anchor and I have yet to see it get fouled under normal conditions.

Raising Anchor-

Raise as normal and stop when the boat-side carabiner reaches the roller and detach. Continue raising as normal. You may need to unwind the line from the chain as the anchor spins to untwist on the way up. When the anchor is home the hidden trip line makes a handy safety line to secure the anchor while under way.

Using the hidden trip line-

If the anchor is stuck simply unhook the boat-side carabiner, attach a strong line, and use a halyard, the windlass, a winch, cleat and motor, or any other method to raise the anchor as you would with any trip line.

The only limitation of the hidden trip line that I can think of is that if the anchor rode itself is fouled you may not be able to reach the boat-side carabiner. This happened to me once so far, and I spent a couple of hours to finally raise and unhook my anchor and unwrap my chain from a huge fisherman’s anchor that looked like it had been abandoned 100 years ago.

Other than that, this strategy is easy to deploy and doesn’t interfere with other boats attempting to anchor nearby, a common reason for not using a bouyed trip line. While you can attach a full length trip line to the rode leading back to the boat, I don’t know anyone who has actually done that and resist doing so myself because of the hassle factor. Here in the PNW with all the logging. fishing and crabbing that creates pervasive risks of fouling our anchor, I’ve found an easy to deploy trip line to be a necessity, which after all, is the “mother of invention,” right? Happy anchoring folks.

I use a trip line in most places where I anchor as the areas have a history of abandoned nets and ‘stuff’. One morning when I got up I couldn’t see my anchor bouy, after some concern that it may have snagged the rudder or prop the tide changed and it appeared from under the swim grid and all was well. I didn’t like that feeling at all. You have come up with perfect solution which I will be using next time I’m at anchor. Thank you for sharing.

That is very much how an in-line tandem recovery line is deployed. In-line tandems can be very difficult to recover, even when not fouled, if one is still on the bottom when the other reaches the rollers; the force from the second anchor, often from the side, keeps it from coming aboard straight. I’ve never had one snag.

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How To Tie A Sailboat To A Mooring Ball Ring

How To Tie A Sailboat To A Mooring Ball Ring | Life of Sailing

Last Updated by

June 15, 2022

Mooring balls are generally found in areas where traditional anchoring isn't an option. By learning how to tie your boat to a mooring ball, you can increase your cruising grounds. This presents you with new and exciting experiences. Don't miss out on snorkeling an amazing reef or visiting an island hot spot! Learn to safely and easily tie to a mooring ball using the instructions I lay out below.

By using a loop of heavy sinking line, you can easily capture any mooring ball, regardless of its setup. This method allows you to take your time and properly attach your boat's lines to the mooring ball.

Armed with a solid understanding of mooring ball design and knowledge of how to effectively use them, you will be able to approach, capture, and secure to any mooring ball with success.

My personal preference has always been to use my own anchoring system to secure my sailboat in place, but there are times when that just isn't the best option. Due to inhospitable bottom structure, crowded harbors or local laws, sometimes using a mooring ball is the only choice.

Table of contents

Mooring Ball Set-Up

The general setup of almost all mooring balls is the same. On the sea bottom is some form of anchor with a chain going to the ball. The ball will have a ring on top. Some mooring balls have a pennant (or line) coming from them, while others will not. If there is a pennant, you will attach to the eye or loop on the end. If there is no pennant, you will attach to the ring on the top of the ball.

There are innumerable ways in which mooring balls can vary. Their anchor may be a cement block, an old engine block, some form of mushroom anchor, or a screw system into bedrock, etc. The gauge of the chain will vary as well as the placement of the chain shackles. Occasionally, the rode from anchor to buoy is part heavy chain and part rope.

The equipment used may be unique from mooring field to mooring field, but the general design is the same. Moorings are inspected periodically by their owners. However, be sure to do your own inspection of all above water parts of the system. If possible, dive the anchor system as well to confirm it's proper placement and strength.  If any aspect of the system appears worn or faulty, be sure to notify the owners.

Capturing  Mooring Ball

You may feel uncomfortable when approaching a mooring ball for the first time. Let me put you at ease and teach you a technique that will allow you to capture any mooring ball on your first attempt.

To prepare in capturing the mooring ball you will want three lines at the bow. Two of the lines will be used to secure your vessel for the duration of your stay. The third line should be a heavy line which sinks quickly. It is used as you approach the ball. You will use this line to capture the ball temporarily while you assess the condition and set up of the mooring system.

You will create a loop, or a bight, with the third line as you approach the mooring ball. You then toss the loop over the ball, much in the same way you might toss a line over a piling. The line will sink down below the mooring ball.

As your vessel drifts back due to wind or current the line around the mooring ball will hold your vessel in place temporarily. This gives you as long as you need to get a clear idea of the mooring ball set up and connect your lines in a secure and proper method.

Solo Sailors

If you are planning on tying up to a mooring ball as a solo sailor, the technique of capturing ball is basically the same. However, you may find it easier to slowly pull alongside the mooring ball until you can see the mooring ball from the cockpit.

You will then toss your heavy capturing line over the mooring ball.  While your boat is in neutral you will walk to the bow while holding both ends of the heavy line and secure both ends to one bow cleat.

Tying Your Vessel To The Mooring

Since you now have a temporary line connecting you to the mooring ball, you can take a deep breath and relax, and think clearly aboutt what to do next.

You will have two lines on your bow. Attach one line to your port bow cleat and the other line to your starboard bow cleat. The other end of the lines will be fed, one at a time, through either the eye at the end of the pennant or the ring on the top of the ball. Bring the line back to its original cleat and cleat the line off.

If the mooring ball has a pennant and your bow is not too high off the water, you may be able to use a boat hook to catch the pennant.

If there is no pennant, you will grab the ring on top of the mooring ball with your boat hook and pull the ball up to your bow. Once at your bow, you will thread one of your lines through the ring and back to its original cleat. Repeat for the opposite side.

If you are unable to grab the ring using a boat hook or unable to lift the ball to the bow, consider bringing your dingy to the bow and, while in your dingy, thread the lines through the mooring ball ring.

Using two lines to secure to the mooring will greatly decrease the amount of chafing and friction incurred from your boat's movement due to wind and current.  Many boats go walkabout due to lines being chafed through. Prevent this from happening to you by using two lines. One line from the port bow cleat to the ball and back to the port bow cleat, and a second line from the starboard now cleat to the mooring ball and back to the starboard bow cleat.

Once you have secured your vessel for the night, be sure to keep an eye on your boat's movement. It is your responsibility to ensure that the mooring is holding you in place and that you will not make contact with any nearby vessels.

Releasing The Mooring

When it comes time to depart from the mooring, releasing your vessel is very easy. Simply uncleat one end, either port or starboard, and pull the line back through the mooring ring or pennant loop. When you're ready, undo the opposite bow line and pull the line back through the mooring. You are now free from the mooring ball and ready to continue cruising!

Mooring Balls And Storms

If you decide to ride out a storm on a mooring ball, you'll want to do your due diligence to ensure that you are fully secured to the mooring ball. Be sure to fully inspect all aspects of the mooring system you're able to and contact the owner about when the submerged parts were inspected.

The best way to be confident that your lines will not chafe during a storm is to use dock lines with a spliced eye or loop in the end to secure your vessel to the mooring ball.

Instead of having your line pass through the pendant or ring and back to your vessel, you will pass the loop end of the line through the pendant or ring then feed the other end (also called the bitter end, working end or running end) of the line through the loop. Secure the bitter end back to its starting cleat and repeat the method for the opposite bow cleat.

A third line can be added in the same fashion as a backup in case either of the primary lines fail.

Preventing Chafing

Besides using two lines to secure to a mooring ball, here is another tip for preventing chafing to your lines.

On our boat, we use rubber hose to protect lines from chafing. We have rubber hose on our anchor line so that chafing doesn't occur on our bow roller. When at the dock, we use hose to keep our spring lines from chafing on our towrail.  Anytime there is any chance that our lines may be chafed, we protect them with rubber hose.

I recommend that you protect your lines in the same fashion so that you never encounter a situation in which a line fails you due to chafing.

To create rubber hose coverings for your lines cut a 1-2 foot section of rubber hose of the appropriate diameter for your line. Feed the bitter end of your line through the hose piece. Slide the hose to a location on the line that requires protection. You may find that tying the hose to the working cleat will also help the hose stay in place.

I use a heavy duty needle to sew a strong string through the hose.  I then tie one end of the string to the hose and the other end to the cleat. This keeps the section of hose from sliding it of place.

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Beth lives on board her 1983 30ft S2 sailboat with her husband, 6 year-old son, and her two fur babies. She has been sailing and boating for most of her life. Beth has been blessed to experience cruising in the Great Lakes, the Bahamas, and in Alaska. She loves to travel and adores living on her tiny boat with her family.

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40 facts about elektrostal.

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Written by Lanette Mayes

Modified & Updated: 02 Mar 2024

Jessica Corbett

Reviewed by Jessica Corbett

40-facts-about-elektrostal

Elektrostal is a vibrant city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and a thriving community, Elektrostal is a city that has much to offer. Whether you are a history buff, nature enthusiast, or simply curious about different cultures, Elektrostal is sure to captivate you.

This article will provide you with 40 fascinating facts about Elektrostal, giving you a better understanding of why this city is worth exploring. From its origins as an industrial hub to its modern-day charm, we will delve into the various aspects that make Elektrostal a unique and must-visit destination.

So, join us as we uncover the hidden treasures of Elektrostal and discover what makes this city a true gem in the heart of Russia.

Key Takeaways:

  • Elektrostal, known as the “Motor City of Russia,” is a vibrant and growing city with a rich industrial history, offering diverse cultural experiences and a strong commitment to environmental sustainability.
  • With its convenient location near Moscow, Elektrostal provides a picturesque landscape, vibrant nightlife, and a range of recreational activities, making it an ideal destination for residents and visitors alike.

Known as the “Motor City of Russia.”

Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname “Motor City” due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.

Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Boasts a rich industrial heritage.

Elektrostal has a long history of industrial development, contributing to the growth and progress of the region.

Founded in 1916.

The city of Elektrostal was founded in 1916 as a result of the construction of the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Located approximately 50 kilometers east of Moscow.

Elektrostal is situated in close proximity to the Russian capital, making it easily accessible for both residents and visitors.

Known for its vibrant cultural scene.

Elektrostal is home to several cultural institutions, including museums, theaters, and art galleries that showcase the city’s rich artistic heritage.

A popular destination for nature lovers.

Surrounded by picturesque landscapes and forests, Elektrostal offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching.

Hosts the annual Elektrostal City Day celebrations.

Every year, Elektrostal organizes festive events and activities to celebrate its founding, bringing together residents and visitors in a spirit of unity and joy.

Has a population of approximately 160,000 people.

Elektrostal is home to a diverse and vibrant community of around 160,000 residents, contributing to its dynamic atmosphere.

Boasts excellent education facilities.

The city is known for its well-established educational institutions, providing quality education to students of all ages.

A center for scientific research and innovation.

Elektrostal serves as an important hub for scientific research, particularly in the fields of metallurgy, materials science, and engineering.

Surrounded by picturesque lakes.

The city is blessed with numerous beautiful lakes, offering scenic views and recreational opportunities for locals and visitors alike.

Well-connected transportation system.

Elektrostal benefits from an efficient transportation network, including highways, railways, and public transportation options, ensuring convenient travel within and beyond the city.

Famous for its traditional Russian cuisine.

Food enthusiasts can indulge in authentic Russian dishes at numerous restaurants and cafes scattered throughout Elektrostal.

Home to notable architectural landmarks.

Elektrostal boasts impressive architecture, including the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the Elektrostal Palace of Culture.

Offers a wide range of recreational facilities.

Residents and visitors can enjoy various recreational activities, such as sports complexes, swimming pools, and fitness centers, enhancing the overall quality of life.

Provides a high standard of healthcare.

Elektrostal is equipped with modern medical facilities, ensuring residents have access to quality healthcare services.

Home to the Elektrostal History Museum.

The Elektrostal History Museum showcases the city’s fascinating past through exhibitions and displays.

A hub for sports enthusiasts.

Elektrostal is passionate about sports, with numerous stadiums, arenas, and sports clubs offering opportunities for athletes and spectators.

Celebrates diverse cultural festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal hosts a variety of cultural festivals, celebrating different ethnicities, traditions, and art forms.

Electric power played a significant role in its early development.

Elektrostal owes its name and initial growth to the establishment of electric power stations and the utilization of electricity in the industrial sector.

Boasts a thriving economy.

The city’s strong industrial base, coupled with its strategic location near Moscow, has contributed to Elektrostal’s prosperous economic status.

Houses the Elektrostal Drama Theater.

The Elektrostal Drama Theater is a cultural centerpiece, attracting theater enthusiasts from far and wide.

Popular destination for winter sports.

Elektrostal’s proximity to ski resorts and winter sport facilities makes it a favorite destination for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter activities.

Promotes environmental sustainability.

Elektrostal prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, implementing initiatives to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources.

Home to renowned educational institutions.

Elektrostal is known for its prestigious schools and universities, offering a wide range of academic programs to students.

Committed to cultural preservation.

The city values its cultural heritage and takes active steps to preserve and promote traditional customs, crafts, and arts.

Hosts an annual International Film Festival.

The Elektrostal International Film Festival attracts filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts from around the world, showcasing a diverse range of films.

Encourages entrepreneurship and innovation.

Elektrostal supports aspiring entrepreneurs and fosters a culture of innovation, providing opportunities for startups and business development.

Offers a range of housing options.

Elektrostal provides diverse housing options, including apartments, houses, and residential complexes, catering to different lifestyles and budgets.

Home to notable sports teams.

Elektrostal is proud of its sports legacy, with several successful sports teams competing at regional and national levels.

Boasts a vibrant nightlife scene.

Residents and visitors can enjoy a lively nightlife in Elektrostal, with numerous bars, clubs, and entertainment venues.

Promotes cultural exchange and international relations.

Elektrostal actively engages in international partnerships, cultural exchanges, and diplomatic collaborations to foster global connections.

Surrounded by beautiful nature reserves.

Nearby nature reserves, such as the Barybino Forest and Luchinskoye Lake, offer opportunities for nature enthusiasts to explore and appreciate the region’s biodiversity.

Commemorates historical events.

The city pays tribute to significant historical events through memorials, monuments, and exhibitions, ensuring the preservation of collective memory.

Promotes sports and youth development.

Elektrostal invests in sports infrastructure and programs to encourage youth participation, health, and physical fitness.

Hosts annual cultural and artistic festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal celebrates its cultural diversity through festivals dedicated to music, dance, art, and theater.

Provides a picturesque landscape for photography enthusiasts.

The city’s scenic beauty, architectural landmarks, and natural surroundings make it a paradise for photographers.

Connects to Moscow via a direct train line.

The convenient train connection between Elektrostal and Moscow makes commuting between the two cities effortless.

A city with a bright future.

Elektrostal continues to grow and develop, aiming to become a model city in terms of infrastructure, sustainability, and quality of life for its residents.

In conclusion, Elektrostal is a fascinating city with a rich history and a vibrant present. From its origins as a center of steel production to its modern-day status as a hub for education and industry, Elektrostal has plenty to offer both residents and visitors. With its beautiful parks, cultural attractions, and proximity to Moscow, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this dynamic city. Whether you’re interested in exploring its historical landmarks, enjoying outdoor activities, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Elektrostal has something for everyone. So, next time you find yourself in the Moscow region, don’t miss the opportunity to discover the hidden gems of Elektrostal.

Q: What is the population of Elektrostal?

A: As of the latest data, the population of Elektrostal is approximately XXXX.

Q: How far is Elektrostal from Moscow?

A: Elektrostal is located approximately XX kilometers away from Moscow.

Q: Are there any famous landmarks in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to several notable landmarks, including XXXX and XXXX.

Q: What industries are prominent in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal is known for its steel production industry and is also a center for engineering and manufacturing.

Q: Are there any universities or educational institutions in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to XXXX University and several other educational institutions.

Q: What are some popular outdoor activities in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal offers several outdoor activities, such as hiking, cycling, and picnicking in its beautiful parks.

Q: Is Elektrostal well-connected in terms of transportation?

A: Yes, Elektrostal has good transportation links, including trains and buses, making it easily accessible from nearby cities.

Q: Are there any annual events or festivals in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal hosts various events and festivals throughout the year, including XXXX and XXXX.

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Why were so many metro stations in Moscow renamed?

Okhotny Ryad station in Soviet times and today.

Okhotny Ryad station in Soviet times and today.

The Moscow metro system has 275 stations, and 28 of them have been renamed at some point or other—and several times in some cases. Most of these are the oldest stations, which opened in 1935.

The politics of place names

The first station to change its name was Ulitsa Kominterna (Comintern Street). The Comintern was an international communist organization that ceased to exist in 1943, and after the war Moscow authorities decided to call the street named after it something else. In 1946, the station was renamed Kalininskaya. Then for several days in 1990, the station was called Vozdvizhenka, before eventually settling on Aleksandrovsky Sad, which is what it is called today.

The banner on the entraince reads:

The banner on the entraince reads: "Kalininskaya station." Now it's Alexandrovsky Sad.

Until 1957, Kropotkinskaya station was called Dvorets Sovetov ( Palace of Soviets ). There were plans to build a monumental Stalinist high-rise on the site of the nearby Cathedral of Christ the Saviour , which had been demolished. However, the project never got off the ground, and after Stalin's death the station was named after Kropotkinskaya Street, which passes above it.

Dvorets Sovetov station, 1935. Letters on the entrance:

Dvorets Sovetov station, 1935. Letters on the entrance: "Metro after Kaganovich."

Of course, politics was the main reason for changing station names. Initially, the Moscow Metro itself was named after Lazar Kaganovich, Joseph Stalin’s right-hand man. Kaganovich supervised the construction of the first metro line and was in charge of drawing up a master plan for reconstructing Moscow as the "capital of the proletariat."

In 1955, under Nikita Khrushchev's rule and during the denunciation of Stalin's personality cult, the Moscow Metro was named in honor of Vladimir Lenin.

Kropotkinskaya station, our days. Letters on the entrance:

Kropotkinskaya station, our days. Letters on the entrance: "Metropolitan after Lenin."

New Metro stations that have been opened since the collapse of the Soviet Union simply say "Moscow Metro," although the metro's affiliation with Vladimir Lenin has never officially been dropped.

Zyablikovo station. On the entrance, there are no more signs that the metro is named after Lenin.

Zyablikovo station. On the entrance, there are no more signs that the metro is named after Lenin.

Stations that bore the names of Stalin's associates were also renamed under Khrushchev. Additionally, some stations were named after a neighborhood or street and if these underwent name changes, the stations themselves had to be renamed as well.

Until 1961 the Moscow Metro had a Stalinskaya station that was adorned by a five-meter statue of the supreme leader. It is now called Semyonovskaya station.

Left: Stalinskaya station. Right: Now it's Semyonovskaya.

Left: Stalinskaya station. Right: Now it's Semyonovskaya.

The biggest wholesale renaming of stations took place in 1990, when Moscow’s government decided to get rid of Soviet names. Overnight, 11 metro stations named after revolutionaries were given new names. Shcherbakovskaya became Alekseyevskaya, Gorkovskaya became Tverskaya, Ploshchad Nogina became Kitay-Gorod and Kirovskaya turned into Chistye Prudy. This seriously confused passengers, to put it mildly, and some older Muscovites still call Lubyanka station Dzerzhinskaya for old times' sake.

At the same time, certain stations have held onto their Soviet names. Marksistskaya and Kropotkinskaya, for instance, although there were plans to rename them too at one point.

"I still sometimes mix up Teatralnaya and Tverskaya stations,” one Moscow resident recalls .

 “Both have been renamed and both start with a ‘T.’ Vykhino still grates on the ear and, when in 1991 on the last day of my final year at school, we went to Kitay-Gorod to go on the river cruise boats, my classmates couldn’t believe that a station with that name existed."

The city government submitted a station name change for public discussion for the first time in 2015. The station in question was Voykovskaya, whose name derives from the revolutionary figure Pyotr Voykov. In the end, city residents voted against the name change, evidently not out of any affection for Voykov personally, but mainly because that was the name they were used to.

What stations changed their name most frequently?

Some stations have changed names three times. Apart from the above-mentioned Aleksandrovsky Sad (Ulitsa Kominterna->Kalininskaya->Vozdvizhenka->Aleksandrovsky Sad), a similar fate befell Partizanskaya station in the east of Moscow. Opened in 1944, it initially bore the ridiculously long name Izmaylovsky PKiO im. Stalina (Izmaylovsky Park of Culture and Rest Named After Stalin). In 1947, the station was renamed and simplified for convenience to Izmaylovskaya. Then in 1963 it was renamed yet again—this time to Izmaylovsky Park, having "donated" its previous name to the next station on the line. And in 2005 it was rechristened Partizanskaya to mark the 60th anniversary of victory in World War II. 

Partizanskaya metro station, nowadays.

Partizanskaya metro station, nowadays.

Another interesting story involves Alekseyevskaya metro station. This name was originally proposed for the station, which opened in 1958, since a village with this name had been located here. It was then decided to call the station Shcherbakovskaya in honor of Aleksandr Shcherbakov, a politician who had been an associate of Stalin. Nikita Khrushchev had strained relations with Shcherbakov, however, and when he got word of it literally a few days before the station opening the builders had to hastily change all the signs. It ended up with the concise and politically correct name of Mir (Peace).

The name Shcherbakovskaya was restored in 1966 after Khrushchev's fall from power. It then became Alekseyevskaya in 1990.

Alekseyevskaya metro station.

Alekseyevskaya metro station.

But the station that holds the record for the most name changes is Okhotny Ryad, which opened in 1935 on the site of a cluster of market shops. When the metro system was renamed in honor of Lenin in 1955, this station was renamed after Kaganovich by way of compensation. The name lasted just two years though because in 1957 Kaganovich fell out of favor with Khrushchev, and the previous name was returned. But in 1961 it was rechristened yet again, this time in honor of Prospekt Marksa, which had just been built nearby.

Okhotny Ryad station in 1954 and Prospekt Marksa in 1986.

Okhotny Ryad station in 1954 and Prospekt Marksa in 1986.

In 1990, two historical street names—Teatralny Proyezd and Mokhovaya Street—were revived to replace Prospekt Marksa, and the station once again became Okhotny Ryad.

Okhotny Ryad in 2020.

Okhotny Ryad in 2020.

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Electrostal History and Art Museum

sailboat anchor ball

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    Known as the "Motor City of Russia." Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname "Motor City" due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.. Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant. Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

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