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> Anchors & Accessories > Anchor Covers

Anchors covers.

Anchor covers to protect your anchor from the elements and to protect your boat from being damaged by your anchor.

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Nomadic Sailing

18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Anchor on a dock

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

  • Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
  • Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
  • Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
  • Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

  • Can be stowed flat.
  • Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
  • Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

  • Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
  • Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
  • Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

  • Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
  • Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
  • Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
  • Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
  • Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
  • Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
  • Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

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The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

  • Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
  • Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
  • Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

  • No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

  • Digs well into the seabed.
  • Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
  • Easy to break out when pulling it in.
  • Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

  • Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
  • Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

  • Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
  • Has a relatively lightweight.
  • No moving parts.
  • Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
  • Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
  • Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

  • Very lightweight.
  • Digs into the seabed quite well.
  • Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

  • Very strong holding power.
  • Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
  • Excellent surface area.
  • Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

  • Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

  • Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
  • Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
  • Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

  • Digs well into many types of seabed.
  • Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

  • Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
  • Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
  • Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

  • None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

  • Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
  • Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

sailboat anchor cover

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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Sail Universe

5 Tips For Anchoring Your Sailboat

anchoring your sailboats

If you are anything like me, anchoring your sailboat in a quite, snug cove or harbor can be hard to beat. But how do you choose an anchoring spot that will provide you with a worry-free “night on the hook”? Follow these five easy tips to enjoy one of sailing’s most sought-after pleasures.

1. Check Your Ground Tackle for Integrity

Check your anchor ground tackle before you make your approach into an anchorage . This applies to quiet coves or crowded anchorages. Ground tackle consists of each part of your anchor , fastenings, rope, and chain that form an “umbilical cord” from your boat to the sea bottom. If one single part of your ground tackle fails, this could put your boat and sailing crew in danger. You could drag anchor and end up aground.

Take the time now to check for chafe (wear and tear), broken fittings, and bent or distorted anchor parts. Pay close attention to the anchor shank (long arm of the anchor attached to your rope or chain). This vulnerable anchor part needs to be straight without distortion. If bent, do not attempt to straighten the shank. This will weaken it–much like bending a paperclip back and forth. Use another anchor for peace of mind.

anchoring your sailboats

2. Choose Protection from Wind and Waves

What direction are the winds from right now? Are those winds expected to shift in a new direction over the next 24-48 hours? Answer these two vital questions before you select an anchorage. Next, look at your nautical chart and find a cove or indentation with protection from wind and waves on at least two sides. Protection on three sides gives you the best security.

For example, let’s say the wind blows from the north. You listen to the predicted forecast and winds are expected to shift to the northeast overnight. Choose an anchorage with protection from the north and east, or protection from the west, north and east. That way, your small sailboat will be protected from the present wind and waves (from the north), and the future, predicted wind and waves (from the northeast).

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3. Know Your Seabed Bottom Material

Scan the chart inside the cove you have chosen. You need to have bottom material that your anchor can get a bite into. Sand, hard mud, and clay are ideal to drop your hook. Anchors tend to bury deep into these types of seabed materials. On the other hand, rock, grass, or kelp will be quite difficult for most any anchor to bite into. Your anchor might bounce over a rock-hard bottom or slide over slippery seabeds. Take the time to choose an “anchor friendly” seabed and you will sleep better at night.

anchoring your sailboats

4. Select the Best Anchor for the Sea Bottom

Carry at least two anchors aboard your boat. Purchase original anchors–not knock-offs. Copy-cat anchors can be of questionable build quality–unable to take the shear loads experienced when anchored. Choose an anchor that works well in good bottoms and one that you can trust in poorer bottoms. For softer seabeds like soft mud or soft sand pick an anchor like the Fortress. For other bottoms, use a well-proven boat anchor like the Rocna.

Cruising sailboats often carry three or more anchors so that they can use multiple anchors in stormy weather. Remember this–your anchor becomes your #1 primary insurance policy underway–not a piece of paper from a marine insurance company! Spend the money for superior anchor gear and you will be rewarded with confidence, peace-of-mind, and worry-free cruising anywhere in the world.

If you are anything like me, anchoring your sailboat in a quite, snug cove or harbor can be hard to beat.

5. Allow for Swing Room and Scope

Survey the anchorage area once you arrive. Make a few loops around the anchorage spot. Look at how other boats are anchored. Follow suite. If other boats have two anchors out, so should you. Favor that side of the anchorage nearer boats with designs close to your boat. Boats of like-designs swing at anchor in similar fashion.

Remember that your anchor marks the center of the circle and you will swing around the anchor in a circle–called a “swing circle”. Estimate the swing-circle of other boats. When you drop anchor, make sure that your swing circle does not intersect the swing-circle of another boat. Keep well clear of shoals (shallow water) or land downwind of your chosen anchor spot. Calculate the amount of anchor rode you need for safety. Allow 7 feet of rode for each foot of water depth–called “scope”. Add expected height of tidal rise and the distance of your bow above water in your calculations.

For example, let’s say you arrive at your anchorage and you will anchor in 10 feet of water. The tide tables say the tide will rise another 5 feet. Your bow is 3 feet above the water. How much scope do you need? Add everything and multiply by 7. 10 feet + 5 feet + 3 feet = 18 feet x 7 = 126 feet. Put out 126 feet of anchor rode for safe anchoring.

Follow these five tips for anchoring your sailboat safe and sound in any anchorage. This will give you confidence and peace-of-mind–wherever in the world you choose to cruise!

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Designed and Developed by Innovative Marine Group

The AnchorSuit® is a high-quality neoprene cover that can safely store an anchor, chain, and rope without damaging the boat or creating a tripping hazard on deck. It comes in a variety of sizes to fit Danforth anchors and Fortress anchors up to FX-23, and is easy to use and be removed by a single person.

Boaters who have used the AnchorSuit® rave about how convenient it is to have all of their anchoring equipment stored in one place and ready to go whenever they need it. The AnchorSuit® also helps to keep the boat deck organized and clutter-free, which is particularly important on smaller vessels where space is at a premium.

The AnchorSuit® is a simple yet innovative solution to a common problem faced by every boater. It is the perfect product for anyone who wants to make anchoring safer, more efficient, and more enjoyable. With the AnchorSuit®, boaters can set sail with confidence, knowing that they have the best anchoring accessory on board.

sailboat anchor cover

Overall, the AnchorSuit® is the perfect addition for those looking to protect their assets and ensure the safety of their passengers and crew while out on the open water. Its versatility, durability, and stylish design make it an essential component for any boater or yacht owner. The AnchorSuit® comes in Navy blue and is available in 5 sizes to fit up to the Fortress FX-23 anchors and 13lb Danforth

  • The AnchorSuit Was Constructed With All Marine Grade Components:  5 mil Neoprene, YKK Zippers, Canvas Reinforced Interior, Webbing Handle Reinforced With Grommets, Finished Ends.
  • Keep Your Anchor Gear In A Visually Pleasing, Neatly Assembled, And Readily Deployable State With This Boat Anchor Cover.
  • Fortress Storm Anchors Can Now Be Fully Assembled And Neatly Stowed Anywhere e.g.  Salon, Closet, Forward Cabin, Lazarette, Gear Locker etc.
  • Soft Neoprene Material Makes This Boat Anchor Storage Solution Mitigate Boat Damage When Stowed And Moved About, Dampens Nuisance Anchor and Rode Chain Rattle When Stowed. 
  • Typical Applications: Yacht Tender, Picnic Boat, Go-Fast, Sail, Cruiser, Classic Wooden Boat, Sport Fish, Sea Planes, Pontoons, El Cat Inflatable Boat, PWC's, X-Tenda Jet etc.

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Looking for an Anchor, click here for the worlds best performing, lifetime warranty, Fortress anchor.

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Mega yachts use neoprene fender covers, but it took a while to find them for smaller boats. Innovative had them for my Taylor Made Big B fenders. They look fantastic. My previous "woven" covers frayed and looked shabby.

What an ingenious idea. Not only does it protect your boat from getting dings and scratches from the anchor, but it keeps everything nice and neat and easy to store and retrieve. Well worth the money.

Quality looks good. Like the neoprene material for safe scratch fee storage.

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

sailboat anchor cover

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

Selecting the Right Anchor Size

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

  • As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
  • The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
  • The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
  • Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
  • This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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IMAGES

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  2. The Best Boat Anchor: 6 Anchor Types Explained

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  3. Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

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