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RC Sailboat/ Yacht Joysway DragonForce 65 Version 7 RTR DF65

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Product Description

Joysway DragonForce 65 Version 7 Sailboat RTR 8815

The Joysway DragonForce is the one of the best selling RC yacht/ sailboats in the world, and with the new Version 7, it just got better!!

New features on the DF65 Version 6 Include:

• 50 Micron Mylar " A" Sails, ships flat in box, with corner reinforcement, battens, eyelets and improved jib luff
• Boom Vang redesigned  to be easy to adjust, better connection to boom
• Redesigned "no flex" Servo tray, featuring improved control arm geometry
• New Jib forestay fitting for easier more consistent jib rigging
• Upgraded digital rudder servo
• New Pre-installed Upgraded High torque Sailwinch for fast, more precise control
• New Boat Stand Laydown Kit  to substantially reduce risk of high winds blowing over your boat
• New Keel Bolt main sheet guide fitting, to stabilize main sheet ring
• Upgraded radio, with improved adjustment
• Redesigned rudder post, to improve fit and stability
• Recessed deck track for eyelets, and improved under deck plastic insert to keep eyelets waterproof without extra glue
• Retooled mold designed to make boat more durable / thicker

The Joysway DragonForce 65 V7, or DF65 for short, is currently the best-selling RC sailboat in the world. The reasons are as simple as the concept and design itself, which was developed in collaboration between Joysway and  top RC performance yacht designers through out the world . Sleek lines and competition-developed sails make the DragonForce 65 race, perform and compete against even those sailboats that would be 10 times the price! The boat is based on the ICE design with an ABS hull, profiled aluminum fin and molded plastic rudder. The A rig is a full sized, fractional low aspect rig with carbon spars and a ball raced gooseneck help make the DF65 a top performer. The DragonForce 65 is a recognized competition RC yacht that can be sailed in the restricted DF65 Class which is recognized by the American Model Yachting Association, with well-defined rules and RC associations that are located worldwide. 

With DF65 clubs all over North America, chances are there is a group near you sailing one! This is the perfect boat to start your own group sailing as well.

The DF65 V7 RTR Version is shipped  with everything necessary to get started . Preinstalled Servo's, Preassembled booms, sails, fittings, 2.4G controller and receiver, etc. All you need to do is assemble the spars , Mast, hang the sails, and go race!

Specifications and Features

• Length: 650 mm
• Beam: 116.5 mm
• Rig Height: 915mm
• Overall Height: 1388mm
• Sail area (Mainsail): 1460 square cm
• Sail Area: (Jib): 766 square cm
• Sail Area (overall) 2226 square cm
• 50 micron Mylar Film racing sails with printed Flow stripes and Logo -- - ships flat in box, with corner reinforcement, battens, eyelets and improved jib luff
• RTR Total Weight: 1200g (not including batteries)
• ABS Molded and Painted Hull with decal stickers
• 2.4GHz 4 Channel Digital Radio Included
• Extruded Aluminum Keel with Zinc Alloy Ballast Bulb
• Extruded Carbon Fiber Mast and Boom Tubes
• Metal Geared Digital Rudder Servo
• Display stand – Molded Plastic and Fiberglass Tubes
• New Boat Stand Laydown Kit to substantially reduce risk of high winds blowing over your boat

Product Videos

Custom field, product reviews, write a review.

12 Reviews Hide Reviews Show Reviews

Dragonforce 65 purchase.

Posted by peter clarke on 7th Oct 2022

lots of fun rigging her and getting her ready and the first sail yesterday removed any doubt of the wisdom of this purchase. I actually felt like I was on board this perfect little vessel as she tacked about the small lake in a perfect fall breeze. I will upgrade my radio eventually, however, so that I can monitor the battery strength on the boat itself while sailing. That will merely be icing on the cake..thanks for the prompt service and delivery. This is a big thanks from a very happy crew on the West Coast.

Dragonforce 65

Posted by Paul Blackmore on 16th May 2022

Very good product. Exceeded my expectations in every way. Assembly tip. Cut all shorter lengths of rigging line at least 10mm longer than what the manual says. It will make the knot tying so much easier particularly on the shorter pieces of line. Lastly, for the final rigging of the gybe sail, which happens to be the last line to tie into place, follow the letter designations only and match them to the picture provided. The numbering system differs on the last two eyelets from what is shown on the initial parts labeling diagram and the printed instructions which follow. Follow the placement shown in the picture and the letter designations and all will be well. Happy sailing.

Great value - Fun to build & sail

Posted by AndyH on 7th Jul 2021

This quality RC sailboat is significantly cheaper than equivalents on the market. I found it great fun to assemble/build and have been impressed by the range & reliability of the RC components. Hours of fun on the water!

The product arrived in a relatively short period of time and in extremely good condition. I have been most impressed by the quality of the individual components and the overall product now completed and ready for "sea trials". Threading the "Bowsie

Posted by Dan Johnson on 4th Jul 2021

This is a great product and the company providing it has been easy to deal with, and responded rapidly to my order placement. I will buy from them again.

Posted by John simmonds on 28th Dec 2020

Very good quality construction. Took quite a while to put together as instructions very typical Chinese translations. Good value for the money

Joysway Dragon Force 65 RC Sailboat

Posted by Peter King on 17th Aug 2020

Took a little time to set up carefully. Well worth the investment. It sails beautifully.

Posted by rob on 16th Aug 2020

Biggest bang for the $$ I've seen in a long time. Unit is in spectacular condition in a sophisticated packing box, Assembly instructions appear to have been written in non-translated English and are terrific. Parts and finish are excellent and first sailings are fantastic. Why kids waste time playing games with their thumbs when such amazing toys are available is beyond me. Kudos to rchobbiesoutlet for fast service and response to an inquiry also.

Dragon force 65

Posted by Ross Griffin on 9th Feb 2020

Arrived promptly in good shape, It took a while to tie all knots and thread bowsies. After waiting a week for the pond to thaw, everything went well, and second time there were other df65's there. Everthing works well and is a speedy boat

DF65 RC Sailboat

Posted by Andy on 29th Jan 2020

Great value! At under $300 this RC model yacht beats the competition. Build quality is excellent and it comes with everything you need to start rc sailing. I was also impressed with the transmitter-receiver range (at least 100m). There is quite a bit of assembly required but this was fun with the clear instruction manual. What you are left with is a serious model racing yacht with full range of adjustments for sail trimming to suit various wind conditions. Full marks Joysway!

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Dragon Force 65 V7 Racing Class DF65 RC sailboat

• Joysway Dragon Force 65 RC Racing Sailboat 8815 Manual Download
• J4C05 2.4GHz 4CH Transmitter & Receiver Manual Download

Dragon Force 65 V7 Racing  RC  Sail boat

Specifications:, what's included:, measurement:.

ABOUT DF RACING IN THE WORLD:

Average rating:

4 (based on 289 reviews)

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• Contact Us +86-769-21680606 [email protected]

Klaus Harris

Dragonforce 65 Setup, Tuning and Review

Updated: 31st Jan 2022 – covers the new V7

Table of contents

• Flysky FS-i6 TX
• Tuning / solving problems
• Different rigs and sails
• V6 vs V7 what’s new?

Final thoughts

Alternatives.

In June 2017 I finally bought myself a radio controlling sailing boat having wanted one for longer than I can remember, I went for a Joysway  Dragonforce 65 V.6 (DF65) an inexpensive RC sailboat. I regularly sail a full sized boat and having made plenty of boats and gliders as a kid was especially curious about sailing an RC scaled down version. I hadn’t had RC models of any kind till now.

Having set it up and working, I realised there were a few things I wish I’d known before embarking on building it which prompted this post.

The post has since expanded into guide covering tuning , electrics , rigs , solving problems and sailing tips.

First off, in addition to a tape measure, make sure you have super glue, a sharp craft knife and ideally two pairs of forceps. I found myself using the forceps to tie small knots. The super glue is essential to prevent the dyneema thread fraying when you cut it, an alternative would be nail varnish. The idea here is to dab a drop of glue onto the thread, wait for it to dry and cut on that spot. Alternatives to super glue would be nail varnish and others have suggested a Berkley Hot Line Cutter .

Get used to this, you’ll be doing it a lot. Also, look carefully at how to tie the black bowsies correctly, there is a right way and a wrong way, fortunately the instructions are pretty clear. Before handling the sails, cut your fingernails as it’s easy to dent them.

Make sure you’re familiar some some basic knots, at a minimum:

• slip knot that won’t undo itself, see a  slip knot
• a knot for making a non slip loop at the end of a line such as a bowline
• a round turn and two and a half hitches
• a knot for adding a loop to a line e.g. farmer’s loop , also known as a  alpine butterfly knot

Preparing a farmer’s loop

Out of the box, the stand is quickly assembled and there isn’t a whole lot to do with the hull which is easily and quickly assembled which takes us to the rig.

Setting up the rig is a bit fiddly but once set up, nearly all rig adjustments will be made by moving the tensioning bowsies which is quick and easy. This post should also help prevent you making some of the mistakes I made.

I think the most important thing before putting the rig together is to set the mast step on the first graduation forward from centre. The mast step position alters the vertical angle of the mast, this is called mast rake. The mast can be raked forward and back.

The reason I do that before set up is it makes setting the forestay easier later on and gives you room for mast rake adjustments later.

For normal sailing the mast will mostly be set to centre.

Continuing the theme, it’s also important to get the jib boom as low a possible. In the picture on the below, the boom is a too high, that could make tensioning the jib difficult and throws other settings out.

The image below shows the boom better attached, the line is attached to the boom using a round turn and two and a half hitches  and hooked around the half eyelet with a bowline. A small drop of superglue on the knots is still a good idea to help prevent them slipping. The bowline below has slipped and will need redoing.

Using a metal swivel to fix boom to eyelet might work, but would probably break class rules if you intend to race. If I did need to rake the mast back, raising the jib boom would still be  easier than reattaching forestay and jib halyard with more play.

You could even have two attachment lines permanently tied to the boom, one for a low boom position one for a higher boom position. Or with some nifty knot work, even two loops on one line.

There are other places where it’s important to get dyneema lengths and bowsies right. The picture below shows the downhaul tensioning bowsie for tensioning the main sail luff. The luff is the leading edge of the sail. In this picture below the bowsie is set correctly and the downhaul will be easy to set.

Make sure the sail is tied to the mast boom as close to the top as possible, in the picture below, this gap could be smaller. If this gap is too large, it becomes impossible to tension the luff with the downhaul bowsie (see above). N.B. not the luff needs much tension.

Once the rig is correctly set up, a nice design feature of the Dragonforce 65 becomes apparent which is that the whole rig can be removed from the boat very quickly by unhooking it in four places.

Smaller and larger sets of sails are available for the Dragonforce 65 for sailing in different wind strengths and the boat comes with an A set. For lighter winds there’s an A+ set and B and C sets for increasingly stronger winds. Rig suppliers are listed below.

All optional of course, I’ll be sticking with the A set. Keen racers will no doubt have rigs with different sail sizes ready to go.

When constructing the mast make sure you glue the top and bottom parts together,  C on the left . The mast won’t be straight under pressure if you don’t glue it.

As on a real boat, the rig is very adjustable; there is a downhaul to adjust main luff tension, a halyard for jib luff tension, adjusters for forestay and backstay tension and jib leech and main leech tension can be adjusted via a jib leech tensioning line and fully functioning vang respectively. Both jib and main also have simple adjustable outhauls for altering sail depth.

The mast rake setting will affect the lengths of the forestay and backstay, bear this in mind as you read tuning guides for the boat. If a tuning guide suggests fore/backstay measurements in conjunction with the mast rake setting, then this should be fine.

The instruction booklet provides a good guide to get you going and the tuning guide from Soch Sails is very good.

This video from Patrick Rynne is an excellent tuning guide. See the original Facebook post and discussion here .

This is the bit I knew least about not having owned an RC model previously but it’s all quite straightforward. There is a servo for the rudder and a servo for the winch which adjusts the sheeting of the jib and main. Sheeting is about pulling the sails in or letting it out.

The pictures below show the electrics tray with servos and batteries. Note how the coloured cables are connected, this is hard to determine from the greyscale instructions sheet.

(Images showing how DF65 J5C01R receiver for J4C05 transmitter is connected to the servos).

It is possible to put the batteries further up into the hull near the mast and keel housing which alters the trim of the boat moving weight further forward. The images below show a Vapex 6v NiMH 950mah AAA pack connected with an extension lead.

If even a few drops of water get into your hull, check the extension cable connector periodically as this will be prone to corrosion which will reduce electrical conductivity.

Mounting batteries by the keel box will raise the transom a tiny bit reducing drag which should theoretically increase boat speed, although in stronger winds more weight forward will increase the tendency to nosedive off wind.

Water can get inside the hull and you could wrap the batteries in cling film before putting them into the housing to keep them dry. I also put some tissue paper inside the hull to mop up odd drops. A standard measure to protect electrics from water is to spray them with Corrosion X , ( discussion ).

It’s probably a good idea to get some decent rechargeable batteries such Panasonic Eneloops . You’ll need eight of them, and the transmitter appears to beep when batteries are running low.

Don’t have too wide a rudder throw range, e.g. throwing the rudder more than about 35° will effectively turn it into a brake ( discussion ). If you do have a big throw, just be aware that you can easily brake the boat, especially in lighter winds.

Make sure the rudder is dead centre in its neutral position and use the transmitter rudder trim adjuster button to center it as needed.

If your winch servo constantly chatters when sheeted in, loosen the main sheet a little. A constantly chattering servo is working which will  wear it out sooner and eat the battery.

Alternative Transmitter and Receiver – Flysky  FS-i6

During a recent boat refit, I recently switched my DF65 over to the Flysky FS-i6 system. This is a slightly more advanced system than the default one which – among other things –  lets you monitor battery power in the both transmitter and boat and set the endpoints better. I like it better and consider it a worthwhile upgrade.

Out of the box, to set it up I did connected it as follows:

B/VVC – the binding plug

Channel 1 – Rudder: red and black Channel 3 – Winch: white, red, black Channel 4 – On switch (power): orange, red, brown.

To bind the receiver to the transmitter do this:

1. On the transmitter, push the switches up and pull the left winch control down 2. Turn the receiver on 3. Hold the bind button on the transmitter and and turn it on

See an instruction and setup guide for the FlySky FS-i6 Transmitter(Tx) and FS-iA6B Receiver(Rx)  by David Flakelar, here .

I always leave some paper tissue in the hull whilst sailing to collect odd drops of  water which might get in to the hull.

Clean the boat with fresh water after use, and dry the hull and sails with a soft cloth or paper tissue, paying attention to the sail eyelets and all metal parts.

After sailing, remove the deck hatch / seals to air and dry the hull should there be any water ingress, do this immediately. Also release any tension from the sails.

I always dry the two metal boom bearings as best I can with a paper tissue and drop a couple of drops of oil on them to displace water. These can rust.

Take care not to dent or bend the sails, hard objects including finger nails will damage them, more so with third party sails made of thinner materials e.g. Soch Sails.

If you mount batteries on the keel box, check the extension cable connector periodically as this will be prone to corrosion which will reduce electrical conductivity.

Water can get in through the on/off switch bellows so check your on/off switch periodically. After a year and a half of use I replaced mine as it had rusted and become unreliable.

I also put silicon grease into the the mast hole periodically, this and the mast where it sits will eventually wear giving a bit more mast wobble.

Finally get the batteries on a charge ready for the next sail. 🙂

Tuning the Dragonforce 65

Or solving basic sailing issues. 

1. The boat keeps heading up and won’t track straight

Check the basics; is the mast rake central? Check that the angles of jib and main sail booms are correct, that sail depth (outhauls) and leech tension (vang and jib leech line) are correct (see the booklet, tuning guides # , # ). Check that the rudder has the correct neutral position. Check that the jib boom is attached correctly and is the correct distance forward from the mast.

If your basic boat settings are correct and it still heads up, try the following (one at a time and not necessarily in order):

• flatten the main by increasing its outhaul
• increase main twist by reducing vang (main boom will go up)
• ease the main sheeted in position a little or
• tighten the job sheeted in position a little

any of those changes in light to moderate winds can make a big difference.

Experiment!

Also, it’s likely not possible to make it track straight in all winds, e.g. it could be set up perfectly for light winds and still want to head up in gusts.

2. The boat won’t tack

Check that the jib boom isn’t too far forward, do not extend the jib boom counter balance. If the jib appears to flick across the deck back and forth, it’s too far forward. It could also be that you don’t have enough speed going into the tack, in stronger winds with waves, bear away to gather extra speed and then tack. Waves hitting the side of the boat can prevent it tacking. Does the jib have enough depth in the sail? Is the forestay and jib halyard too tight? If you have tacking problems bring the boat back to you by gybing it around.

3. You can’t get the boat out of irons

Meaning you tack and the boat stops and won’t move, ease the sails a little then try pumping the rudder on one side (fast, slow return and repeat), check your jib boom position (above). Don’t force the rudder into a far left or right position, you aren’t driving a car.

4. The boat won’t respond to the rudder

Assuming electrics and battery are ok, check your rudder throw. Is it moving? Is the rudder stiff or stuck? When heeled over, the boat will be less responsive to rudder steering because as the boat lies flatter, the rudder acts more as a hydroplane . In this situation, sheet out first to level the boat, then steer. Did you use the correct lubricant for the rudder bellows? Grease will make very sticky. Is the boat caught in weed? Be patient and it will hopefully free itself.

5. The boat is heeled over all the time

The wind strength is too strong. Your options are to use a smaller set of sails, wait for less wind, or de-power the rig. De-powering only works so far but to de-power the sails, flatten them by increasing the outhaul, increase main twist. Also, sheet in less the reduce the sheeted in position so long as the boom doesn’t drag in the water.

The closer the booms are to the centreline when sheeted fully in, the better the boat will point (sail closer to the wind) but the more it will heel over. You can sacrifice pointing ability for rudder control and better course direction. Remember, the more the boat heels, the more it also slips sideways.

Experiment with feathering the boat into the wind to get a good balance of forward speed and heel, and experiment with different sailing angles and degrees of sheeting. I’ve had good results with the default A rig even in quite strong winds.

6. The boat won’t go downwind

First, make sure the booms will go out far enough when fully sheeted out. Assuming rudder and electrics are good, and that otherwise the boat is well set up, it’s likely that there is too much wind and your boat just wants to head up. It is perfectly possible to have the boat trimmed so that it will beat (go into the wind) in strong winds but it won’t then come back to you easily. Either use a smaller set of sails or don’t sail, it’s not worth losing the boat.

7. The boat only tracks straight on one tack

Is the mainsheet bridle dead central? Is the rudder dead central?

8. The boat nose dives

This can happen in stronger winds. Make sure the rig isn’t raked forward, use batteries in the servo tray location to move weight further back. Allow the boat to gain speed before bearing away downwind, use a smaller set of sails. Avoid sailing dead downwind, this is the slowest point of sail and as such pressure on the rig will be strongest. The wind could also just be too strong.

9. The boat won’t power up

Most likely the battery holder, connector cables or switch is rusty. Replace any components with rust anywhere and spray with some corrosion x , it’s not worth risking your DF 65 losing power on the water.

Different rigs and sail sets

From the factory, the DF 65 comes with an A rig. Smaller and larger rigs are available made from different materials. Since I first wrote this post in 2017 I bought a set of A+ sails from Sochsails which have become my favourite rig set.

The A+ rig is bigger than the default A rig and transforms the performance of the boat. It’s much more responsive in very light winds and in my experience is manageable up to 11 – 12 knots. The images above were a 7-12 knot day.

Third-party sails are available in different materials. My A+ set is mylar which is a lighter less tough material than the stock sails. There are some pros and cons here worth bearing in mind; mylar film is lighter and more responsive in light winds e.g. the sails will flip across more readily when tacking, is louder when luffing which provides better audible cues to know what the boat is doing, but the material is more sensitive to hard objects such as finger nails, or dents.

Transporting the boat fully rigged with mylar film sails in a vehicle need more care and it’s probably worth looking into a sail bag.

Another tip with mylar sails is to make sure the clew is crimped closed so that a flapping sail doesn’t come free.

V6 vs V7 What’s New?

The DF 65 V7 was launched in 2021 and is different in two ways from the V6:

• Upgraded sail winch, higher power and increased accuracy. Read more here .
• An upgraded stand which allows laying on the side. Thestand upgrade can be purchased, e.g. here .

Otherwise, it’s the same. Hardcore racers might go for the upgraded winch on their v6, but it’s quite a bit more expensive.

The Dragonforce 65 V6 /V7 is a good quality product and great value for money. The boat has very good sailing qualities and its relatively small size means it can be put in the car fully assembled, avoiding the hassle of dissembling and reassembling. The transmitter is solid and works well.

The rig is very configurable, easy to tune and comes in a variety of size options. Switching rigs is super quick and easy, parts and sails are easy to find and also relatively inexpensive.

The initial rig set up requires patience and a little time and this is definitely not a simple toy. The boat hull does need to be aired when off the water and the deck seals whilst simple are a bit fiddly, I use electrical tape now.

The Dragonforce 65  is a hugely popular class of boat which means if you want to race, the chances of finding a fleet probably look good, and for the money, I think it’s an excellent package and a lot of fun.

The RC Laser – http://www.rclaser.org.uk/ The Micro Magic – http://micromagic.info/ – similar price range The DF95 – the DF65’s big brother –  https://dfracing.world/df95/

There are plenty of other boats but the top two seem to be well adopted at least in the UK. My local radio yacht sailing club have these classes which could give you further ideas.

A bit of boat Zen with my DF 65 on a calm lake (read more ).

https://dfracinguk.com http://www.rg65usa.org/dragon-force-resource-center.html http://www.abersochboatyardservices.co.uk/Dragon%20Force.php

In the press

A good article in Sailing World, https://www.sailingworld.com/inside-classes-dragonforce-65/

The boat and spares

http://www.joysway-hobby.com/c/rc-sail-boat_0021 https://www.wirelessmadness.com http://www.radiosailing.co.uk/ , spares

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/joysway-dragon-force-65-v6-yacht-rtr-2-4ghz/rc-car-products/413315http://www.abersochboatyardservices.co.uk/Dragon%20Force.php

https://soch-sails.myshopify.com/ https://hotrcsails.com/ – CA http://www.catsails.co.uk/dragonforce65.html

Tips, Tuning and Mods

DragonForce 65 Tuning – Patrick Rynne Video, top tip! Sochsails tuning guide https://radiosailing.net/blogs/news/building-your-df65-a-rig-kit http://www.abersochboatyardservices.co.uk/Dragon%20Force%20Hints%20&%20Tips.php https://dragonforce65.us/tip-and-hints/ https://dfracinguk.com/hints-tips/ https://dfracinguk.com/df65-rigging-tuning/ Sealing the keel trunk and fin

DF65 Rigging and Tunning 1 , 2 , 3  Youtube vids

Instruction and setup guide for the FlySky FS-i6 Transmitter(Tx) and FS-iA6B Receiver(Rx)  by David Flakelar, here .

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexboating.php https://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots DF65 Facebook group discussion on knots

Racing Associations

https://dfracinguk.com/ – register your boat to get a sail number (UK) https://mya-uk.co.uk/ http://theamya.org/boats/df65/ – register your boat (USA). https://dragonforce65.us/ – US DF65 class owners website

https://www.facebook.com/groups/dragonforce65worldwide/ – top tip! https://www.facebook.com/groups/DF65USA/

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10 thoughts on “ dragonforce 65 setup, tuning and review ”.

Very informative Have just purchased one of these to give it a go .⛵️

Like Liked by 1 person

Excellent run down. The DF 65 V6 is a much better boat than the previous version DF65 . One tip for you. The transmitter in the boat has a short aerial and this needs to be mounted horizontally near the deck underneath ( in the dry ) What I do is slip the small antennea cable into a plastic drinking strawer ( thus keeping it straight which is the best for transmitting and receiving ) and then tuck it up under the deck near the gunwhales. Hold it along the underside of the deck with doube sided velcro. Don’t have it waggling about behind the electrics and winch area.

We are starting up a club racing the DF65 and we are finding the transmitters interfere with other boats. Can you tell us how to deconflict them?

Sorry Robert, I don’t have experience with this. There are a number of DF65 facebook groups for different countries, perhaps they might help.

Hi You seem to have a problem with the ” binding ” process whcih electronically liknks your transmitter to each receiver. Courtesy of Josway J4Co5 unit. 1) Push down the throttle stick fully to its stop ( left stick, Mode 2 ) and switch on the transmitter 2) Switch ON the receiver on the boat. 3) Presss the button which says ” BIND” on the receiver until the LED flasheson the receiver, then release it. When the receivers green light is on the connection is syncronised for that selected transmitter and creciever. IE it is a unique link. Should you ever replace the reciver in the boat, do it all agai for that selection to your transmitter. See Joysway Instruction Manual from which this info has been taken

Hi, Hopefully you have an answer to this by now but just in case. You will need to _SET UP NEW ID for J4C05 TX:   1) only 1 boat and 1 transmitter,  switch on RX (boat),  make sure throttle stick on TX is at neutral position. 2) Push the two trim button (at bottom of two TX stick) toward the left side (left trim button) and right side (right trim button) and hold.  3) switch on TX, hold the two trim button for about 3 seconds and release,  now you have set up the new ID for TX.  4) rebind the TX with the boat.  make sure no other TX and RX(boat) are power on. Details in your manual.

I’ve just bought 2 DF65s and I followed the bind instructions but each transmitter controls both boats. Anyone else seeing this? I tried bind process 50 meters apart and still same problem.

Completely naive to any kind of sailing and I thought this was a “beginners” boat, nevertheless I am determined. I had just tied the first bowsie with a square knot and a drop of superglue when I realized I had it upside down. Will that really make a difference? Is there enough dyeema cord to allow for mistakes? I’ve stopped to learn more, which led me to your blog, and I’m learning the knots you’ve suggested. How do you know which knot to apply where?

>Will that really make a difference?

It’s been a while but I think this will make it prone to slip, correctly done it’ll lock in position. I made a fair few mistakes when I first did mine but if you can I would recommend buying another length of chord just to ease any concerns.

>How do you know which knot to apply where?

Good question and I’ll update my article to answer that, important to get right are the knots which tie things to things. e.g. it doesn’t matter if a loop tied around a ring slips to fully closed (but not further) whereas the loop which holds the jib mustn’t slip. When I set up my A+ rig I used a ’round turn and two and a half hitches’ further secured with a drop of glue for loops which could close (e.g. chord attached to rings) and a bowline for the jib loop.

Stick with it, assembly seems to take an age but soon you’ll be sailing.

Will you be updating your article soon? (I’m looking forward to doing this project correctly and waiting to continue assembly based on your response.)

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• Joysway Manuals
• DRAGONFORCE 65
• Instruction manual

Joysway DRAGONFORCE 65 Instruction Manual

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Table of Contents

Specification.

• Box Contents
• Items Required
• Basic Boat Terminology
• Display Stand Assembly
• Mainsheet Bridle
• Keel and Keel Bulb Assembly
• Rudder Assembly
• Mainsail Rigging
• Rigging Procedure
• Jib Boom Setup
• Rigging the Jib
• Powering up the Boat
• Sheeting Setup
• Basic Sailing Terminology
• Maintenance
• Spare Parts List
• Alternative Battery Location

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• 1 Specification
• 2 Box Contents
• 3 Mainsheet Bridle
• 4 Mainsail Rigging
• 5 Powering up the Boat
• 6 Sheeting Setup
• 7 Alternative Battery Location
• 8 Spare Parts List
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Summary of Contents for Joysway DRAGONFORCE 65

• Page 1 650mm R/C High Performance Racing Sailboat For more information about the boat and the DragonForce 65 racing class. visit: www.dfracing.world Specification • Length: 650mm • Beam: 116.5mm • Rig Height: 915mm • Overall height: 1338mm • RTR total weight: 1200g (Batteries not included) •...
• Page 2 INSTRUCTION MANUAL THIS MODEL IS NOT A TOY. THESE INSTRUCTIONS SHOULD BE READ BY A SUPERVISING ADULT DRAGONFORCE 65 2.4GHz R/C RACING SAILBOAT This Instruction Manual covers models 8815(RTR) & 8815A(ARTR) IMPORTANT: This is not a toy. Assembly and operating of this boat requires adult supervision.
• Page 3 BASIC BOAT TERMINOLOGY The front of the boat. STERN The back of the boat. PORT This is the left side of the boat when viewed from the Stern. STARBOARD This is the right side of the boat when viewed from the Stern. HULL The body of the boat.
• Page 4 DISPLAY STAND ASSEMBLY 1 Identify all stand components from box. Note: The nuts, bolts and EVA foam support pads are located in the fittings pack. 2 Bolt the plastic moulded components together with the twelve nut & bolts supplied. 3 Construct the leg sections. Note: The leg sections are the four longer tubes. 4 Fit the three stretcher tubes.
• Page 5 RUDDER ASSEMBLY 1 Identify all Rudder components from the box. Note: The metal Rudder Arm is located in the fittings pack. 2 Insert Rudder into Hull. 3 Ensure the Rudder is pushed fully up into the Hull, then, pushing the Rudder Arm down, tighten the grub screw. This will locate on the flat section of the metal Rudder Shaft.
• Page 6 3 Fit the wire Mainsail Luff Rings to all five eyelets down the Mainsail Luff (front edge). Leave the rings open at this stage. 4 Slide the Mast Stub into the base of the Long Mast section, taking care that the bevelled edge of the plastic collar is facing downwards. A spot of CA glue on the upper section of the Mast Stub before assembly will hold these two parts together for a permanent fix.
• Page 7 I N S T R U C T I O N M A N U A L...
• Page 8 JIB BOOM SETUP Silicone Rings A & B Counterweight Jib Clew Hook Rubber O Ring Silicone Ring Jib Tack Hook Jibsheet Guide Eye Jibsheet Guide Eye 63mm 160mm 1 Set the rear Jibsheet Guide Eye and Silicone Rings A & B to the positions shown above. The positions of the other silicone rings and sail clew hook are adjustable to facilitate correct sail trim.
• Page 9 12 Thread the Dyneema cord coming from the rear end of the JibBoom through the first two eyes of a Bowsie, then up through the 6mm ring at the lower end of the Topping Lift and back through the final hole in the Bowsie. With the Bowsie positioned approximately 40mm below the ring, tie off the cord and trim off the loose end.
• Page 10 I N S T R U C T I O N M A N U A L...
• Page 11 POWERING UP THE BOAT If you’ve bought the ‘Ready To Race’ version (8815) of the boat you will have the Joysway Transmitter and Receiver. The transmitter (Tx) and Receiver (Rx) will already be ‘bound’ and full operating instructions for this radio set are supplied.
• Page 12 SHEETING SETUP 1 For initial sheet setup of both the Jib and Mainsheet, pull the winchline in to its close-hauled (sheeted fully in) position and don’t move it until both sheets are fully installed. 2 Cut a 500mm length of Dyneema for the Mainsheet. Tie a loop in one end and clip it in to the Winch Line Clip(A) (see photo 2), run it forward and through the metal ring on the Mainsheet Bridle(B), up through the Mainsheet Guide(C) on the Main Boom, back along the boom through the first two Holes in Bowsie(D), through the Rubber O Ring(E), through the Mainsheet Guide(F), forward through the Rubber O Ring(E) again and then through the final hole in the Bowsie(D).
• Page 13 Sheeted Out: The Mainboom should sheet out to around 80º to the Hull’s centreline Sheeted Out: The Jib Boom should sheet out to around 85º to the Hull’s centreline Sheeted In: The end of the Jib Boom should be just inside the inner edge Sheeted In: The end of the of the Gunwhale Mainboom should be over the...
• Page 14 Rudder: In center position IMPORTANT NOTICE Only sail your DragonForce 65 in still bodies of water. Never sail it in running water such as rivers or tidal waters. If you loose control of the boat you could loose it forever! Never attempt to swim after a stalled or stuck boat.
• Page 15 MAINTENANCE SPARE PARTS LIST If properly rigged and maintained the DragonForce65 will Item No Item Name be a very ‘dry’ boat. This is a very good thing as water and 880502 Standard keel with screws electrics are not the best of friends! 880503 Rudder There are some essential steps you need to take to keep...
• Page 16 This product complies with the essential requirements of all relevant EU Directives. A copy of the Declaration of Conformity can be obtained from the following website www.joysway-hobby.com For more information about the boat and the DragonForce 65 Racing Class please visit www.dfracing.world...

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Joysway DragonForce 65 V7 655mm (25.7") Racing Sailboat - RTR

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Joysway DragonForce 65 V7 655mm (25.7") Racing Sailboat from Bancroft - RTR - BNC1048-001

There are few R/C modeling activities more peaceful than sailing a yacht on a summer’s evening enjoying a gentle, constant breeze on your preferred pond. Likewise, few activities can be more exciting than racing like a captain in the America’s Cup, using a model yacht against similarly-equipped competitors that places your sailing skills to the test!

Bancroft is pleased to offer the world-renown DragonForce 65 sailing yacht, a model perfectly suited to either activity. Manufactured by Joysway Model Co., it’s now available for sale through Motion RC!

Available in both PNP (no transmitter or receiver) and RTR (includes transmitter and receiver) versions, these models arrive highly prefabricated and ready for final assembly and rigging.

V7 improvements include a new, improved sail winch servo and a revised boat stand that allows both vertical or horizontal securement of the model for convenient storage, transport, and maintenance.

With active chapters in eight countries, DF racing has become an economical and enjoyable portal into the sport of RC sailing. Visit www.dfracing.world for information, rules, competition chapters, and events.

• RTR-Includes Transmitter, receiver, rudder servo and sail winch
• Fully painted and decorated hull and sails
• Extruded carbon fiber masts and boom tubes
• Extruded aluminum keel with zinc alloy ballast bulb
• Display stand included
• Bancroft DragonForce 65 V7 655mm (25.7") Racing Sailboat - RTR
• 2.4Ghz Radio and Receiver, pre-installed
• Steering servo, pre-installed
• 8x AA batteries
• Eight (8) AA-sized 1.5V dry cell batteries, Alkaline or NiMH - we recommend Admiral AA NiMH 2600mAh rechargeable batteries

Product Specifications:

Spare parts, product spare parts.

SKU: BNC6026-001

SKU: BNC7009-004

SKU: BNC1042-118

SKU: BNC5072-003

SKU: BNC1047-103

SKU: BNC1047-126

SKU: BNC1047-127

SKU: BNC1047-130

SKU: BNC6008-005

SKU: BNC6010-304

SKU: BNC6009-100

SKU: BNC5072-004

SKU: BNC1048-125

SKU: BNC1048-126

SKU: BNC1048-129

SKU: BNC1048-130

SKU: BNC1048-131

SKU: BNC1048-132

SKU: BNC1048-133

SKU: BNC1048-134

SKU: BNC1048-135

SKU: BNC1048-137

SKU: BNC1048-143

SKU: BNC1048-144

SKU: BNC1048-145

SKU: BNC1048-146

SKU: BNC1048-147

SKU: BNC1048-148

SKU: BNC1048-149

SKU: BNC1048-150

SKU: BNC1048-151

SKU: BNC1048-152

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NOTE: Questions submitted on this page are answered by customers who have previously purchased this item. If you have a support related question that requires immediate assistance, please visit our Help Center

Product support

Product manuals:.

• Joysway DragonForce 65 V7 655mm Racing Sailboat Instruction Manual
• Dragonforce 65 Restricted Class Rules
• Dragonforce 65 Tuning Guide

If you need any additional assistance, please visit the  Motion RC Help Center

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JOS8815PNP – DF65 R/C Sailboat Kit V6 – Plug and Play (No Radio)

$ 239.99

29 in stock

JOS8815PNP – DF65 R/C Sailboat Kit – Plug and Play.  This version of the DF65 has no transmitter or receiver (radio).  You will need to install your own

This is the Dragon Force 65 V6 by Joysway.  The DF65 is a hugely popular RC Sailboat Kit.  Inexpensive to buy, easy to build and really fun to sail.  Whether you are a seasoned racer or just want to have fun at the cottage this is the boat for you!!

Features on the DF65 Version 6 Include:

50 Micron Mylar ” A” Sails, ships flat in box, with corner reinforcement, battens, eyelets and improved jib luff Boom Vang redesigned to be easy to adjust, better connection to boom Redesigned “no flex” Servo tray, featuring improved control arm geometry New Jib forestay fitting for easier more consistent jib rigging Upgraded digital rudder servo New Keel Bolt main sheet guide fitting, to stabilize main sheet ring Upgraded radio, with improved adjustment redesigned rudder post, to improve fit and stability Recessed deck track for eyelets, and improved under deck plastic insert to keep eyelets waterproof with out extra glue Retooled mould designed to make boat more durable / thicker

See the Accessories section for available radios.

The DF65 is straightforward to build.  It will require a good pair of scissors or exacto knife to cut the dyneema sheeting.  Another thing that is very helpful is some Cyanacrylate Glue (Crazy Glue) to add to your knots.  We really like the Gel CA from Bob Smith.  It can be ordered through our site at – BSI116

I would also suggest checking online for build, set-up and tuning tips from the experts!  We have a list on our Links page of helpful sites.  I strongly recommend the blog by Mr. Klaus Harris!

Related products

JOS8815PNPTMV7U – DF65V6-V7 Upgrade R/C Sailboat Kit – Plug and Play (No Radio)

JOS8815RTR – DF65 R/C Sailboat Kit V6 – RTR (With Joysway Radio)

86 in stock

JOS8815RTRTMV7FS – DF65V6-V7 Upgrade R/C Sailboat Kit – Ready to Run (With FlySky FS-i6 Radio)

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Joysway premier supplier for DF Racing yachts and spares.

Next weekday dispatch - free delivery on UK orders over £150* (link to full details) 

Totally DF Racing...   We are part of the team that conceived and developed both the DragonForce 65 & DragonFlite 95 yachts. Complete knowledge base and UK/Europe's largest stock of yachts, spares & accessories. 

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"A+" Sail Set. (50 micron Mylar, printed) - DragonForce 65

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is backordered. We will ship it separately in 10 to 15 days.

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