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How to Sell Your Boat

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Cal 2-46: A Venerable Lapworth Design Brought Up to Date

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Rhumb Lines: Show Highlights from Annapolis

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Open Transom Pros and Cons

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Leaping Into Lithium

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The Importance of Sea State in Weather Planning

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Do-it-yourself Electrical System Survey and Inspection

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Install a Standalone Sounder Without Drilling

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Rethinking MOB Prevention

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Top-notch Wind Indicators

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The Everlasting Multihull Trampoline

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In Search of the Snag-free Clew

A lithium conversion requires a willing owner and a capable craft. Enter the Prestige 345 catamaran Confianza.

What’s Involved in Setting Up a Lithium Battery System?

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Reducing Engine Room Noise

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Breaking Point: What Can Go Wrong With Your Yanmar?

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Mildew-resistant Caulks for Boats

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Can We Trust Plastic Boat Parts?

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Repairing Molded Plastics

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Mailport: Marine plywood, fuel additives, through bolt options, winch handle holders

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The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

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Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions

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Cockpit Drains on Race Boats

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Rhumb Lines: Livin’ the Wharf Rat Life

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Safer Sailing: Add Leg Loops to Your Harness

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Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

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Extra Anchor Lighting

Masthead anchor lights often aren’t enough in crowded anchorages..

solar powered anchor light sailboat

When summer comes, a dozen or more sparkling white lights will adorn every popular anchorage. Visible from miles away, they promise to provide good warning to approaching boats that something is anchored there. In practice, they have manifold shortcomings. They all look alike, distance is impossible to gauge, and they can be difficult to distinguish from stars and shore lights. Fast-moving dinghies and runabouts often overlook them, since they are far above the driver’s sight line.

The basic rules for anchor lights were written in 1846-1850. The United Kingdom led with the Steam Navigation Act of 1846, and the US followed soon after. Electric lamps had not been invented, confusion with background lights was a minor concern, and a single lantern was considered enough. But is it now?

COLREGS states in Rule 5 (long before we get to the description of lights in Rule 30) that we must maintain a watch. There is no exemption for smaller vessels or while at anchor. Since this is impractical for the cruising sailor, and because nighttime harbor collisions are unfortunately common, taking additional steps in the form of supplemental lighting seems prudent.

OBSERVATIONS

When entering a harbor or any area that might have anchored boats, watch out for a relatively bright star that is moving in relation to the others. That’s a mast light indicating a boat. And if you are approaching that boat, the motion will be even less obvious. Once you learn how difficult this can be on a moonless night, you will understand our call for supplemental lighting.

Our opinion is that anchoring in an active harbor requires lighting both high and low. A masthead anchor light can be lost in the cloud of anchor lights and stars. An anchor light placed lower can be lost against the background of street lights and porch lights. So while the lower light could be a second anchor light product—COLREGS 30 (a) says it can be—an area light may better serve the purpose by illuminating the deck and super structure. COLREGS 30 (b) says you may display additional work lights, and we think you should.

A powerful spreader-mounted deck light may be too much, disturbing your neighbors. In principle they are focused downward, but some light up the whole harbor.

Cabin lights generally impart a glow to the whole boat, making the outline clear, but you can’t sleep with them on. Allowing for tinting and curtains, they are generally visible for only ¼- to ½-mile, depending on intensity. Cockpit lights draw mosquitoes to the companionway; if you leave cabin lights or the cockpit light on and go to shore for dinner, you may return to a cabin full of the pests. Put the screens in before you leave. Sometimes we set a light on the pulpit to draw them away from the companionway. Don’t forget radio interference. LEDs require current regulation, which is most often accomplished by a combination of resistors and rapid switching of the power using transistors. If the voltage drop is sufficient, this will cause radio frequency interference. Most interference is contained within the boat’s own power system, where it interferes with your radio and instruments, but it can also radiate a short distance.

Lights that show an FCC or USCG approval have been tested for radio frequency interference (RFI). In our testing, the RFI of low-voltage solar lights, which lack the approval of either agency, are too low to be a problem. At a minimum, scan that full range of VHF frequencies after installing any new lighting.

No flashing or strobe lights, please. This is reserved for signaling distress and can annoy your neighbors.

SOLAR PATHWAY LIGHTS

Designed for lighting footpaths ashore, these cheap lights intrigued us. Most solar pathway lights claim 8-hour run time, but all the ones we have used go dim after 4-6 hours and wink out well before first light. The solar panels are really tiny. Although they require only a few watt-hours to recharge the battery, they need at least 4-6 hours of full sun for best results.

Units we tested in broken shade usually fully recharged, but those in deep shade often winked out hours earlier. Likewise, overcast and rainy days can slightly reduce run time.

Swapping the factory NiCads (0.600 Ah) for lithium rechargeables (2.3 Ah) seemed like a good idea. Fully charged, they kept the lights on for two nights, but then failed to recharge because they require a higher charging voltage than the factory NiCads, more than the solar panel puts out. Also note that not all lithium batteries are rechargeable, and not all lithium rechargeables are 1.5V (some are 3.2V).

Don’t overdo it. Decorative lighting and strips can obscure your functional navigations lights. Observe your boat from all directions with all the lights on. Are the basic navigation lights clearly visible and the course of the boat obvious? Any supplemental or decorative lights that could interfere with clear recognition of your functional navigation lights must be turned off when underway.

Boats on moorings. For moored boats, we’d install enough built-in solar panels to run a conventional masthead anchor light through the main battery system.

Although there are photocell systems that will turn lights off during the day, a low-draw LED anchor light draws little more than the sensing circuit, so you can just leave it on. We don’t fully trust the durability of any of the solar pathway lights, so we would install one additional anchor light down low, with a separate switch.

For anchoring while aboard, or for a short hiatus away from the boat, a few of the Hampton Bay Silver Pathway Lights should make your boat easy to find and will make it more visible.

Technically, anchor lights are not required for boats under 23 feet (7 meters) in length, but to leave your boat unlit at anchor or mooring is risking trouble. Light your boat, even if it’s just a dinghy.

SUPPLEMENTAL LIGHTS

There are literally hundreds of possibilities, so we’ll discuss only a few, highlighting what we do and do not like (see also PS May, 2011 “ Portable LED Rail Lights ” )

MANTUS SNAP ON LIGHT

Initially, we thought this was a bit pricey for a battery-powered light, but over time we realized it filled the roles of several products, a good thing on a smaller boat.

On the high setting, it is as bright as most cockpit lights and will run for 16 hours. Switched to either low or red, it spreads an even light that does not compromise night vision, perfect for reading charts or tidying up underway. Clamped to a high railing, it meets the candela basis of a USCG anchor light; we’ve confirmed this on the water. It makes our F-24 easier to find when return from a mid-night kayak trip.

It makes a good non-glaring bilge worklight; we’ve dropped it in the water enough times to confirm that it’s waterproof. Clamped to the pulpit it makes a bow worklight, though we would use a head lamp for most night deckwork. It even has an SOS flasher setting. Although it does not meet the standard for an eVDSD (Electronic Visual Distress Signal), it will supplement other signaling means (see PS June 2021, “ Distress Flares Go Electric ”).

Finally, it is rechargeable by USB, and now that most of us have a port somewhere on the boat, it will always be charged without lugging around another charger.

Bottom line: Recommended as a small boat supplemental and a non- USCG emergency anchor light.

HAMPTON BAY PATHWAY LIGHTS

Most pathway lights direct the light downwards, toward your feet, with little escaping to the sides. They light up the cockpit a bit, but you can’t see them from a distance. Hampton Bay Silver Pathways lights, on the other hand, direct the light horizontally, perfect for viewing from a distance.

Though not as well focused as an anchor light, the mere 15 lumens output was clearly visible at 1-mile and very nearly meets the 2-mile anchor light visibility standard. The low profile allows them to be slapped on any flat surface with self-adhesive Velcro. We love the price, but unfortunately they only run 4-6 hours, meaning they will protect you from late arrivals and wee hour drunks, but will not stay lit until first light.

Bottom line: This is our Budget Buy for supplemental lighting. Do not expect the light to be on at 2 or 3 a.m. in the morning.

EMERGENCY ANCHOR LIGHTS

Our search for temporary lights took us into the realm of temporary lights designed specifically for anchoring, and claiming to meet one or more marine specification.

DAVIS INSTRUMENTS MEGA LIGHT

Many small boat sailors use this as their primary anchor light, hanging it in the rigging. It is has a 15-foot cord.

The Mega-Light is still available with the original incandescent bulb (0.3 amps), and with that lamp installed, performs the same as it did in prior testing. We measured the bright beam width at +/- 8 degrees, and long distance visibility seemed enough to meet the standard.

However, on the newer LED lights, with a factory-installed LED bulb, the center of the bright beam is about 30 degrees above the horizon if mounted with the base down (and 30 degrees below the horizon if suspended from the base). In the areas outside this narrow bright band of light (within +/- 5 degrees of the horizon), the light is less than 10 percent of the required brightness. Although quite bright, the LED emits upwards instead of radially like the incandescent lamp does.

The LED also sits about 1/4-inch lower in the housing. When tilted 30 degrees, the lamp aligns with the fresnel lens and becomes much brighter. In practice this means that if it is suspended as suggested by the maker, the light is really only visible within 50-100 feet of the boat, with most of the beam being directed skyward.

Our experience offers an important lesson for DIY sailors looking to save some amps by swapping to a different bulb than the one specified. Navigation lights are only approved with the specific lamp that was used for approval testing—no changes allowed.

Another thing that bothers us is the cigarette lighter plug, but it’s not Davis Instrument’s fault that we have such an impractical industry standard. We’re hoping the boating industry moves to a better standard, perhaps the DIN 4165 Powerlet- style (see PS August 2021, “Watertight Connectors”).

Bottom line: The non-LED version is Recommended, but the LED version has a limited beam angle that restricts visibility. There are better low-draw options for deck level lighting.

TECNIQ TOWER LIGHT

Although intended for permanent installation, this USCG-compliant light is tiny, dirt cheap, and could easily be adapted to a rail clamp or other temporary mounting. The diameter is a perfect match for 2-inch PVC pipe, something we learned when installing one on the mast of our F-24. Because it is so low profile, we needed a short vertical extension to clear the wind instrument housing, a short stub of pipe boosted it just enough and gave us a place to hide the splices. Very low power draw and low price make it an outstanding choice for secondary low level anchor light for a boat kept at a mooring.

Bottom Line: Recommended for permanent installation or to make a custom plug-in.

ESAFETY S6LS SOLAR MARINE LANTERN

An improved version of the solar pathway lights, the S6LS has enough battery capacity to last 60 hours, getting you through a stretch of cloudy days. A local marina installed these on the outlying pilings several years ago, and we can see them at 2-miles, just about the same time the USCG fixed lights marking the harbor entrance come into the clear view.

Esafety also makes a slightly version (S8LS, 2-mile vis, 72-hour life, $85), suitable for a boat on a mooring. Too bad neither is USCG approved as an anchor light.

Bottom Line: Recommended for supplemental lighting and as an anchor light for moored boats that lack adequate battery power.

LANAKO SOLAR POSITIONING LIGHT

The solar power has clear advantages for boats that live on a mooring. In addition to the all-around white light, it also can serve as a tricolor light, and an SOS strobe. A wireless remote control determines which mode it will show. The strobe does meet the USCG carriage requirement for a visual distress signal. It has a convenient rail clamp.

Bottom Line: Recommended for moored boats that lack battery power.

HOW BRIGHT?

Supplemental lights don’t need to meet a specific standard, but if you are shopping around it helps to understand the output claims—usually expressed in lumens and candela.

A lumen is a measure of total light output in all directions, without focusing. Candela is the intensity of the light within the focused beam, which can be anything from a hemisphere in the case of an area light, down to a narrowly focused beam. If a light emits evenly in all directions it takes about 12.6 lumens of light emission to create 1 candela of intensity. An anchor light, on the other hand, with a beam focused into 6 degrees vertically and 360 degrees horizontally, can produce as much as 2 candela per lumen if the optics are just right, although the actual output is typically closer to 1 candela per lumen.

The 2-mile visibility requirement requires 4.3 candela. An unfocused area light will require 25-50 lumens to meet this standard. Garden lights are typically focused downwards, so the typical 10-lumen light will be visible for less than a mile. With less than perfectly adjusted night vision, PS testing suggests a few hundred yards is more realistic.

We performed additional visibility evaluation of the Mantus Snap-On Light and Hampton Bay Silver Pathway lights, photographing at distances up to 1-mile, calculating intensity, and measuring run time.

In the June 2021 article on electronic visual distress signalling devices, we reviewed the USCG standard. Four handheld products met the standard. None of the devices in this review meet this requirement. A flashing masthead light is not bright enough and does not have independent power supply that the eVSD

If you are considering an unfocused area light to serve as supplementary or backup anchor light, it should have an output of >50 lumens to approximate the visibility required for anchor lights. Be aware that any blocking or partial interference from cabin top structures will decrease visibility significantly.

SOS beacons, intended to be seen from many miles, require a very bright area light, approaching that of a flare. They are expected to be visible at 5 miles and clearly noticeable at a few miles. A blinking anchor light is not bright enough to meet the visual distress signaling standard and does not have its own power supply, which is required of a true eVSD.

WINCH MOUNT

The high point on our test boat’s superstructure is a cabin-top winch. We built a simple mount to keep a Hampton Bay Silver light level and secure from sliding off. We have a similar homemade winch mount we use for our camera.

The standard octagonal winch handle hole fits a 0.70-inch (17.8 mm) square about 1-inch long, and you can extend it as needed to clear low obstructions; we chose 2.5 inches as a compromise between visibility and stability. Teak is a good material; rot-proof, hard, and easy to work accurately.

The Hampton Bay Silver Pathway light was mounted to a 5-inch circle of ¾-inch wood with a counter sunk hole for the screw that secures it to the square winch adapter. (The camera mount uses the same size wood square, but is topped with the swivel portion of a cheap table-top tripod.) You can repurpose the socket of an old winch handle.

Alternatively, you can just place the light on the highest part of the cabin, secured by Velcro. We still recommend mounting the light to a disk of wood with screws, because this adds compression to the bottom plate and improves the weather sealing.

CONCLUSIONS

When we went ashore from our cruising cat, we’d leave the cockpit light on, and perhaps a few cabin lights. The cockpit light was not blocked by more than a few degrees in any direction and was quite visible, and the glow of cabin lights through the windows made the length and width of the boat obvious. If the anchorage was isolated, we’d turn off all but the anchor light at night, but if we expected late night traffic, we’d leave the cockpit light on for a bit of security. With our F-24, lacking an installed cockpit light or anything overhead to fasten it to, we clip a Mantus Snap-On Light to the stern rail. Both are about as bright as the anchor light, with the advantage of lighting up some portion of the deck as well.

What about emergency anchor lights? A plug-in light will do if the electrical system is still working, and generally it is. Turning on cockpit and cabin lights will work for a single night’s emergency. In the event of general electrical failure, a separate battery powered light also makes good sense. Locate it so that it is visible from all directions.

We’re not saying that supplemental lights are a substitute for a conventional USCG recognized anchor light. Not at all. You need that for compliance, because it is visible above shore lights, and because it is visible at a reliable distance. We’re saying that adding some light down low will make your boat easier to find and reduce the risk of things going bump in the night. Your fellow sailors will also appreciate the improved safety when navigating a crowded harbor at night.

VALUE GUIDE: SUPPLEMENTARY ANCHOR LIGHTS

Know the rules to prevent collisions and to avoid liability lawsuits..

All sailors should be familiar with the International COLREGS rule 30, which details the uniform requirements for ship lights. Below are excerpts of the important specifications with some italicized comments from our testers.

(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:

(i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; and

(ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light.

(b) A vessel of less than 50 m in length may exhibit an allround white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule.

(c) A vessel at anchor may, and a vessel of 100 meters and more in length shall, also use the available working or equivalent lights to illuminate her decks.

Note that the anchor light does not have to be at the masthead, but rather where it can best be seen. The masthead is generally a good place, free of obstructions. The “where it can best be seen” requirement rules out very low locations, but there is no stipulation that it be placed high in the rigging or at the masthead, where it might be hard to see in a crowded anchorages. Note also that the placement and specifications for deck illumination lights is left open for the captain to decide.

Annex I provides additional detail that sailors are often less aware of:

9. Horizontal sector.

(b) (i) All-round lights shall be so located as not to be obscured by masts, topmasts or structures within angular sectors of more than 6°, except anchor lights prescribed in Rule 30, which need not be placed at an impractical height above the hull.

(ii) If it is impracticable to comply with paragraph

(i) of this section by exhibiting only one all-round light, two all-round lights shall be used suitably positioned or screened so that they appear, as far as practicable, as one light at a distance of one mile.

Practically speaking, this means that if a light is not mounted at the masthead, it must be above the cabin and canvas work, and it must be mounted about

10 times the mast diameter away from the mast to ensure that the mast will not excessively obscure the light. 10. Vertical sector.

(a) The vertical sectors of electric lights as fitted, with the exception of lights on sailing vessels underway, shall ensure that:

(i) at least the required minimum intensity is maintained at all angles from 5° above to 5° below the horizontal;

(ii) at least 60% of the required intensity is maintained from 7.5° above to 7.5° below the horizontal.

(b) In the case of sailing vessels underway the vertical sectors of electric lights as fitted shall ensure that:

(ii) at least 50% of the required minimum intensity is maintained from 25° above to 25° below the horizontal.

Because anchor lights are not used underway, they need not adhere to the sailboat beam angle requirement. Some lights we have tested met only the section (i) requirement of 5 degrees above and below the horizon, yet don’t indicate they are for powerboats only. These are hard to see when you get close to the boat, gradually dimming as you approach within 150-250 feet of the boat and under the focused band. Even sailboat lights with the broader beam angle dim when you get within a few boat lengths.

Additionally, this means that anchor lights that meet only part (a) vertical sector (5 degrees) must be mounted within a few degrees of plumb to avoid black-out zones. Even sailboat lights meeting part (b) appear dim when rigged out of plumb.

EMERGENCY LIGHTS

Cruise long enough and your anchor light will fail. The first night after the failure, anything that lights up the boat will help. Leave on the cockpit light, as well as deck lights and cabin lights, as needed to meet the intent of the rule (that the boat is visible from 2 miles away).

After that, a US Coast Guard approved anchor light is needed, as a matter of practicality and legality. In some areas local law enforcement target boats that lack a bright all-around light. If a boat collides with yours at night, attorneys could cite your inadequate lighting as an easy defense for their clients.

If you still have power, a plug-in emergency light will serve. The Davis Instruments Mega Light is probably the best known, or you can make your own from an inexpensive anchor light and a cord. Don’t string an emergency or supplemental light at an angle to get the required spacing from the mast. Don’t place it in an angled fishing rod holder. And no allowing it to swing free; it will appear to flash.

We’re not fans of cigarette plugs, which are not waterproof (see PS August 2021, “Waterproof Electrical Connectors”). Consider swapping the common cigarette plug for either an SAE 2-pin or DIN 4165 Powerlet-type plug.

To minimize maintenance, you can replace the masthead anchor light with a sealed LED unit. The bulb life is practically forever and corrosion is rarely a problem. Alternatively, you could find a new mounting location closer to the ground.

A dead battery or general electrical failure requires a portable unit, and low-draw LEDs and improvements in battery power have made these possible. The Mantus Snap-on Light is bright enough to meet the USCG requirements, and testers have used the Hampton Bay light on the transom of our kayak as a nighttime running light; it is bright, all around, flat for easy mounting with Velcro, and on the transom is out of the paddlers line-of-sight.

Many of the early solar powered garden lights converted for marine use with the addition of a plastic rail clamp turned out to be duds after a single season (see PS May 2011, “ Portable LED Lights ”). As prices for LEDs have dropped precipitously and the market for robust weatherproof garden lights has exploded, we’re seeing some terrestrial products that seem perfectly suited for use at sea.

Nevertheless, quality is highly variable in this category. This report looks at only a few of the many varieties on the market. We’ve tried several other types, but they weren’t worth the waste of ink. If you’ve found a reliable light that compares to what we have here, we’d be interested in hearing about it.

Extra Anchor Lighting

1. We built our own winch mount using a square wooden plug that fit neatly into the winch handle socket.

Extra Anchor Lighting

2. We also tried leaving it flat on the deck, secured by high strength hook and loop (Velcro) fasteners. This location made the light less visible at closer distances, but the main drawback was the vulnerability to being stepped on.

Extra Anchor Lighting

3. Although the solar charged Hampton Bay light is not specifically designed for marine use, it is meant for use outdoors, and its seals do a good job of keeping moisture at bay in the harsh marine environment.

Extra Anchor Lighting

4. We experimented by replacing the rechargeable NiCad batteries with rechargeable lithium ion batteries. They ran longer, but would not recharge fully on solar power.

MANTUS, www.mantusmarine.com

HAMPTON BAY, www.hamptonbay.com

TECNIQ, www.tecniqinc.com

ESAFETY, www.esafetylights.com

LONAKO, www.lonako.com

DAVIS INSTRUMENTS, www.davisinstruments.com

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

I am really surprised that you did not include the Luci light in your choices. It is my go to option hanging on the davit at the back of our boat. It also doubles as a navigation light for the dinghy. It maintains its brightness thru the night and if it falls overboard it floats. Peter Clay

I love Luci lights have owned several but the hanging piece always breaks causing leakage way to quick. I actually sent my last one back after it lasted less then a month. If they fixed this issue I would buy a few of them to keep around.

I’d like to share my version of a supplemental solar powered anchor light. I bought what was back in 2018 listed as “the brightest solar path light” and modified it to hang from my port spreader by adding hanging wires of stainless steel seizing wire and a downhaul, and based on Practical Sailor’s recommendation that anchor lights should be blue to distinguish them from the white lights ashore, I made a cone out of blue plastic film from an art supply online source, and put that inside the clear plastic lens of the light. It shows up nicely from a distance when approaching the boat at night, and is certainly distinctive. The light is bright enough to light up the deck well enough at night to move about safely, although is not bright enough to do tasks. For that I still use a headlamp. Alas, that particular light is no longer being made, but the same idea could be applied to many other currently available lights. I’ve had to install new commonly available AA NiMH batteries twice since I started using it. They eventually poop out.

Hanging it from the spreader seems about ideal – high enough to be easily seen from a distance, but not so high as to blend in with shore lights.

I’d post a photo of the modified light, but your comment section doesn’t appear to allow that.

Another good lighting product is a lantern from luminAID ( https://luminaid.com ). The company makes various sizes of inflatable, floating lanterns which are solar charged. The light intensity can be varied and the shape makes the lantern easy to hang. I hang one from mid-boom and set it to illuminate most of the deck.

Another reason to buy from luminAID is they donate lanterns to people hit by disasters. In fact, you can buy and lantern and donate a lantern.

Mantus Rail light is the only way to go. They are rechargeable and last several days without charge and they go off automatically during daylight hours. Very robust and well made.

Most curious that the article did not include a kerosene lantern as an auxiliary, or primary, anchor light. They are a low tech solution that are utterly reliable. The only downside is the need for a supply of kerosene. My experience is that a few quart fuel bottles lasts an entire sailing season. It is a low tech solution worthy of consideration.

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10 Best Solar Powered Nautical Lights & Their Reviews [Updated 2022]

Whether you’re a new boat owner or an avid fisherman, a good lighting system is an absolute must for early morning, after sunset, and low visibility weather expeditions. You might be asking yourself “I already have lighting installed on my boat. What else do I need?”, well the answer is separate solar lighting.

With solar lighting, you can greatly improve visibility and safety. You may come across time while boating, and all of a sudden you’ll hear a zap or a pop, and sure enough, you could be stuck on the water without any power.

Usually, there will be sufficient lighting from the daylight. However, if you’re not so lucky, sunset could be approaching fast and that much-needed light is fleeting.

1. IZTOSS 12V Marine LED Boat Lights Waterproof Navigation Lights Side Bow Teardrop Lights

IZTOSS 12V Marine LED Boat Lights Waterproof Navigation Lights Side Bow Teardrop Lights

Coming at number one, the IZTOSS Solar Powered Navigation Light is an immensely under-appreciated innovation for any boater, and I recommend having this product for virtually any type of boat.

This solar light isn’t for watching where you’re stepping, but it’s to be used as a boat navigation light, which is required internationally on all boats in operation before sunrise and after sunset, and in low visibility weather conditions.

You may have seen boats with multiple bi-color setups and even a variety of all-around lights to delineate their boat in marinas.

However, this product has it all.

This self-powered light comes with all-around LED lights for boats at anchor, built-in bi-color lights for marine navigation and is waterproof to any storms your vessel may encounter.

The lights can be set to turn on automatically or manually, and even set to flash when the boat is anchored.

You can install this light easily on boat rails, and it comes with additional clip sizes to match your boat’s needs.

Whether you position the light high or low, it comes with an easy to use remote that can activate its various light functions to up to 30 meters, which can come in handy instead of clambering over whatever mess may appear on your deck.

This solar light even comes with anti-bird thorns to prevent avian critters from blocking the built-in solar panel.

Due to its unique design, it can withstand direct sunlight on hot days and utilizes a lithium battery that can survive sub-zero temperatures.

These small additions make this navigation light an excellent option, that other product may often overlook.

The IZTOSS Solar Navigation Light comes in the number one spot because it’s an amazing product that incorporates practicality, ingenuity, and is a must-have for boat owners.

Pros & Benefits:

  • Multifunctional boat light
  • Rail mountable
  • Wireless remote
  • Comes with anti-bird thorn

Check Price on Amazon

2. S8LF Flashing Solar Light

S8LF Blue Flashing 2NM IP67 Solar LED with a Bird Spike Marine Dock Barge Safety Beacon Light 360...

For number two, the S8LF Flashing Solar Light is a great safety light that is commonly used on buoys, docks, and canal markers.

If you’re looking to make your marina and docking area safer, this can be a great investment, it’s even used on barges and large vessels due to its bright flashing lights.

Using penetrative 360º flashing lights, it can guide any boat pilot in the dark of night, early mornings, and in any ill-tempered weather utilizing its eight very bright LEDs that flash around 45 times per minute.

No need to worry about manually turning this product off and on, as it comes with an auto-sensing feature that will turn on in the evening and shut off at sunrise.

This light comes with a built-in solar panel and is ready to install within minutes, and requires little to no maintenance for all of its life-span.

It even charges within a day’s worth of sunlight, is built to last in wet or dry conditions, and can run up to 120 plus hours at full charge using its temperature resistant lithium battery.

This product is built using durable ABS plastic, further adding to its trustworthy resilience.

And it comes with a built-in bird spike to prevent any bird droppings from blocking light and solar charging capabilities.

The S8LF Flashing Solar Light is even available in four colors; blue, green, red, and clear.

These colors can be used to delineate traffic flows in any harbor.

Personally, this item’s incorporation of a bird spike, long battery life, and compact size greatly sets it apart from other dock beacons.

So, whether you’re setting up a new dock, a marine buoy, or replacing old lights, the S8LF Flashing Solar Light is a great asset for any maritime environment.

  • Long-lasting charge
  • Easy installation
  • Bright flashing LED lights
  • Built-in anti-bird spike

3. Solarrific® L2049 Solar Piling Lights for Marinas

Solarrific® L2049 Solar Piling Lights for Marinas

If you aren’t needing flashing dock lights, the Solarrific L2049 Solar Piling Lights are a great alternative to lighting up piers and pilings.

Giving off a cool white light, these light fixtures can add a beautiful design to any dock.

This weather proofed solar piling light can be sturdily screwed in for long-lasting rust-free installation.

Due to its highly efficient design, these lights will charge for eight hours during the day and activate up to twelve hours during the night automatically.

Using temperature resistant lithium batteries, there is no need to worry about seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Reaching 45 lumens, with five bright LEDs, this light will provide a great atmosphere for your docks that will have friends and family complimenting its charm and functionality.

This is one of the best piling lights currently on the market due to its great charge, visually pleasing aesthetics, and can match any decorative theme.

If your old lights have become dull or non-operational, this is a wonderful long-lasting product that will light up your piers for years to come, it even comes with a one year warranty!

  • Beautiful LED lights
  • Great charge

4. JACKYLED Solar Dock Lights

JACKYLED Solar Dock Lights Outdoor 8-Pack Solar Powered Driveway Lights IP68 Waterproof LED Step...

JACKYLED Solar Dock Lights are the number one waterproof walkway lights available right now.

Their plethora of features make this an excellent product to be used on your larger dock walkways lighting needs.

Currently being sold in packs of eight with four different color options; white, blue, green, and yellow which are all available to match whatever site your working on.

Its automatic sensors will turn on and brighten these lights in the evening and charge during the day.

Only six to eight hours of charging are needed and it will last up to 72 hours of continuous lighting.

Its durable poly-carbonate design can allow it to withstand twenty tons of pressure, making it a reliable investment for any high trafficked docks that may have frequent heavy machinery.

While coming with screws, the JACKYLED Solar Dock Lights come with a flat bottom that can even use glue adhesives to keep them positioned in a myriad of locations on or off the dock.

Using six bright LEDs its light can reach up to 875 yards, making this a fantastic option for any walkway.

This rustproof light is a great investment for year-round lighting and can even be used on some boats, which can greatly improve night-time navigation.

If you’re finding yourself using your phone light to get around, now is the time to upgrade.

  • Floor mountable
  • Bright LED lights

These F-TECK Outdoor Stainless Steel Solar Lights will provide bright lighting to any walkway or stairwell and won’t obstruct the vision or path of the frequent passersby.

With a little know-how, they can even be installed on certain kinds of boats to provide an efficient on-deck lighting network at night.

These lights are sold in packs of four and come with a manageable installation process using a mountable backing, screws, and plastic wall anchors.

Due to its stainless steel design, these lights keep water out and maintains a decorative image.

Each light comes with three bright LED lights installed.

Each light’s compact design allows them to be placed where many larger lights simply wouldn’t fit.

Due to their visual appeal, these lights would make any boat more calming and welcoming to guests, family, friends, or co-workers.

Due to its light weight, you won’t have to worry about over encumbering the wall on which this fixture can be placed on.

Currently, they are even being sold with a 30-day money-back guarantee and one full year’s worth of warranty.

Few comparable products offer such a sense of secure purchasing and guarantee.

Not only is this product an aesthetically pleasing work of art, but it’s extremely affordable and will add a much-needed sense of fresh air to any boat, dock, or pier.

The F-TECK Solar Lights are a great investment for any outdoor project.

6. CHEEKON Solar Rail Lights

CHEEKON® Solar Rail Lights Outdoor Waterproof Very Bright 60 Lumens 4300K Warm White Black Step...

Another great dock lighting that utilizes a sleek shape is the CHEEKON Solar Rail Lights.

Intended to be put on wooden rails and wooden dock edges can create a minimalist aesthetic that other lights don’t incorporate.

Not only can this product provide lighting, but would make any night-time pier visually stand out.

Currently, these small black lights are sold in packs of two and four, fitting whatever kind of project you’re wanting to be done.

Each light even boasts 60 lumens, which is very bright, especially considering its tiny and compact size.

It comes with an automatic on and off setting, is waterproof to withstand downpours, and is built with a durable ABS plastic and UV fade technology to ensure a long-lasting product.

This product even has an easy installation process utilizing screws next to the solar panel.

The CHEEKON Solar Rail Light’s eight-hour continuous charge makes it a fantastic and affordable option for your docks and piers.

They would even work perfectly next to dock cushions, providing a functional guiding light when docking or departing, so no more scrambling to find the boat lines and dock tie-downs.

This product has flown under the radar so far, and I highly recommend this particular solar light due to its affordability, effectiveness, and modern flush design.

  • Sleek design

7. Taylor Made Products Dock Cushions

Taylor Made Products 46011LED Dock Cushion, Straight with LED Lights, 3.25 inch D x 5 inch T x 36...

Dock cushions and bumpers are a necessity for any and all docks that encounter frequent stationed and docking vessels.

If you are considering replacing older and damaged cushions you may want an all in one product like the Taylor Made Dock Cushions, which goes leaps and bounds further by providing an amazing variant that has built-in lights which are attached to a small solar panel.

The cushion’s inner core is made with EVA foam that can compress on impact and is surrounded by an exterior that is made with high-density PE foam making it a very durable option for any amount of knocking from nearby boats and dingeys.

The foam cushions also incorporate a modern UV protected coating that will prevent marring and impairment from harmful sun rays, that cheaper alternatives quickly suffer from.

The recessed lights offer unique visibility that isn’t available on many similar styled dock cushions and can greatly improve your nighttime boating experience.

After a day’s worth of sunshine, these lights will remain bright for up to eight hours.

Installation is very straightforward and can be used on a variety of docks, other Taylor Made non-light dock cushion variants even include a corner-shaped cushion that will match this product perfectly, allowing you to create a large safe docking area.

This is another product that hasn’t been widely talked about, but it implores a much-needed sense of innovation that many dock cushions fail to achieve.

The LITOM Premium Solar Lights are one of the most popular and highly trusted outdoor solar lights currently used and can be fastened to flat surfaced walls using screws or other mounting materials.

While many people use these lights for their yards, I think they can be a great asset to marine structures and even installed on some boats.

These lights are sold in packs fours and offered in two different colors; cool white and warm white.

Since this is usually for backyards and driveways, it does operate on a motion sensor and takes only thirty seconds to warm up fully when it’s dark out.

Not only do these lights use a whopping 30 LEDs for each light and can reach 215 square feet, but they also act as a great way to sense any unwanted intruders on your docks late in the evening.

The ABS plastic exterior provides great durability and is complemented by its waterproof design.

Easy installation also allows a variety of applications, making this a superb and reliable product.

Its impressive solar charging and battery capabilities allow it effectively charge in the day, and have a lifetime durability of over 30,000 hours.

On the topic of reliability, these lights include a 45-day full refund policy, a 36-month warranty, and 24-hour customer support.

The sellers of this product go above and beyond to endure a positive experience purchasing these products.

If you have the time to install any outdoor marine lights, these are a great eco-friendly option that requires no cords and has a long life-span.

  • Motion Sensor
  • Wall mountable
  • Very bright LED lights

9. UNIFUN Solar Lights

UNIFUN Solar Lights Outdoor, 30 LED Waterproof Solar Powered Wall Lights with Dual Head Spotlights...

The UNIFUN Solar Lights, similar to the LITCOM Solar lights, are usually seen in yards and around the house, however, this light is an excellent emergency backup light for your boats or docks in case there is a power issue.

This product is sold in packs of two and each light comes with motion sensor technology and is waterproof to withstand any inclement weather.

This light features a center light and two headlights that can be easily rotated to shine in different areas.

The light is built with a total of 30 LEDs, seven on each rotatable head and 16 on the middle section.

Being weather and temperature resistant, these lights make excellent wall fixtures.

Similar to other products, it charges during the day and will only activate when it’s dark outside.

If you’re considering upping late-night security, these are also amazing items that can provide easier visibility and establish better security for your boats and tackle.

These lights even come with a thirty-day full-refund and a stellar twelve-month warranty, making this a solid investment for your outdoor projects.

Overall, no matter what project you decide to work on, these lights are great for brightening multiple areas and have a place in well-earned place in any marine environment.

  • Rotatable lights

10. Davis RailLight Premium Solar Light

Davis RailLight Premium Solar Light with 4 LEDs

Visually appealing self-contained solar lights can be hard to find for boats, and this last product is a perfect fit for any leisure boat to create a sophisticated look.

The stainless steel Davis RailLight Solar Light comes with a very easy to set up deck light that can clip on to .65 to 1.25-inch thick boat rails.

Because it is fully marinized, it can withstand both freshwater and saltwater conditions.

Accompanying its stainless steel caps and post, it features a UV resistance polycarbonate lens that amplifies the light from its four bright LED lights.

Like other solar lights, this product comes with auto-sensing technology that charges in the day and lights up in the night.

After a day’s worth of sunlight, this light fixture can retain up to eight hours of use.

It even comes with a waterproof on/off button that works well on rainy days to prevent any moisture based damage, that would affect most products like this.

These lights will work great in dry climates and will make any outdoor landscape become a summer getaway within moments.

It would make a great accessory to any leisure boats in lakes or calm waters, as well as a great choice for docks, piers, and any other walkways that you can think of!

Complements are bound to come from your sense of style and attention to detail with these lights.

  • Aesthetically pleasing
  • Semi-Waterproof

Final Thought

These are the best self-contained solar-powered lights that every boater should consider when looking at lighting options!

As mentioned at the start of the article, for safety reasons, it’s smart to have at least one separate solar light on any nautical vessel, as well as a flashlight, in case of technical issues that may arise on and off the water.

If you’re a sailor, fisherman, or boat connaisseur these products can add a new sense of fresh air into your maritime experience, and could even be great talking points with your fellow boat advocates.

Most of these items can even be used on and off-deck, further amplifying the safety and visibility of the marina.

From these reviews. I hope you have learned the importance of back-up lighting, and may even consider these 2021 items for your vessel, especially when prepping for upcoming summer expeditions.

If you know of any items that didn’t make it on this list that are great solar powered options for your nautical experience please comment, and share your thoughts below while being ready to start a helpful and informative discussion.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this list of the 10 best solar powered nautical lights and their reviews for 2022.

See one that’s not on the list and should be? Let us know in the comments below.

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Sailing with solar power: A practical guide

  • Duncan Kent
  • November 13, 2020

The latest solar technology makes self-sufficient cruising much more achievable. Duncan Kent gives the lowdown on everything you need to get your boat sorted

Solar_Paul Cleaver_Alamy

SOLAR POWER ON BOARD

Solar power is fast becoming the most popular and economic method of keeping the batteries charged on a boat.

Particularly now that the efficiency of photovoltaic (PV) panels, charge controllers and batteries is improving every day.

Furthermore, the latest technology in regulators and charge controllers has brought about a noticeable increase in useable power output, so the problems of shading and non-alignment can be compensated for more easily.

Not only has PV equipment become more efficient and cost-effective, but many of the modern devices we want to use on a boat have become less power hungry.

This means it is now far easier to provide your entire yacht’s electrical needs, both 220Vac and 12/24Vdc, from natural energy resources – particularly solar power, even if you are planning on a fully electric boat .

solar powered anchor light sailboat

Thinking carefully about how much power you need and how much your boat can accommodate is key to planning a solar array. Credit: Graham Snook

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

For instance, a boat with two new, good quality, deep-cycle house batteries of 100Ah each would supply 100Ah of energy to consume between charges, if you only use the recommended 50% of available charge between each charge cycle to protect the batteries.

From this you could run:

  • a modern 12Vdc fridge (approx. 1.5Ah, or 36Ah over 24hrs),
  • all LED lighting (say 20Ah per day),
  • various small device chargers (20Ah)
  • and a number of other items such as water pumps, TVs and stereos (25Ah/day)
  • Totalling around 100Ah.
  • For this you’d need 400W of solar capacity.

Of course, if you like to run a lot of AC devices off-grid such as hair dryers, microwaves, toasters and the like, then you’re going to need a DC/ AC inverter, which will take you to another level in power consumption terms.

But even then, with careful planning, solar could provide a large portion of the power you need before resorting to engine charging or a generator.

THE AVAILABLE SPACE

In practical terms, a modern 40ft monohull would have the space for around 1,200W of PV panels (cockpit arch, sprayhood top, deck), maybe 1,500W with the addition of a few portable panels for use at anchor.

The 1,200W of fixed position solar array could produce around 360Ah on a sunny summer’s day (zero shading) or more likely 250Ah on the average UK summer’s day.

So that’s enough for your 100Ah general DC consumption plus another 150Ah of AC consumption via the inverter.

Of course, to do this you’ll most likely need to increase your battery capacity to around 400-500Ah for maximum flexibility (you’ll need to store as much as possible during daylight hours), a typical figure for a 40-50ft offshore cruising yacht these days.

001_Solar-power__GS1

Get your solar charging right and you may never need to hook up to shore power

Typical daily inverter loads for a cruising yacht off grid might be:

  • induction cooking plate (20min) 60Ah
  • microwave (15min) 30Ah
  • coffee maker (20mins) 25Ah
  • hair dryer (5min) 15Ah
  • laptop charger (2h) 10Ah
  • or around 140Ah in total.

The trick is to monitor the batteries’ state of charge (SOC) at all times and vary your use of the inverter to suit.

For example, you might want to cook supper mid-afternoon, when solar is in abundance, and then reheat it in the evening when you want to eat it.

In some cases, when you’re cruising in warm climates such as the Med, you might end up with excess charge from your solar panels .

In this situation, many long-term cruisers devise a method of ‘dumping’ the extra energy by heating water for showers.

Do bear in mind if you’re planning to live aboard full time , then it’ll be a whole different story on cloudy days and during the winter, when inverter use might need to be knocked on the head entirely.

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POWER DISCREPANCIES

There’s often confusion as to how much power you can harvest from a solar installation.

A PV panel is nearly always advertised stating its theoretical peak output power (Pw).

But in reality, on a yacht where there are limited areas in which to mount them, they will more likely produce a maximum of 60% of their peak output if mounted horizontally, increasing to 80% if tilted towards the sun and regularly adjusted.

The latter is rarely achievable on a boat, however, as even at anchor it can swing through an arc of 180° in wind or tidal shifts .

Solar-power_SunWare-Textile-Bimmi-Mo

Flexible panels can be mounted on sprayhoods or awnings to add power when it’s needed at anchor or in harbour

INSTALLATION

Having trawled through hundreds of ‘deals’ to get the best price on the most efficient panels you can afford you now need to know how to install them to best fulfill your energy generation needs.

The output, even from the highest quality photo-voltaic array, will only be as good as the installation itself.

So following our guidelines should ensure you extract every last drop of energy from your investment.

PANEL MOUNTING

Sailing boats are not the ideal structure on which to mount wide, flat PV panels.

So before you go ahead and purchase what looks like the biggest and best, take a few minutes to decide on exactly where you can mount them, as this will affect what size and type of panels you should buy.

In many cases the first choice would be on an arch, davits or gantry aft, especially if you already have, or plan to fit one.

Solar-power_Solar-on-gantry

Dinghy davits, particularly on multihulls, can support a huge solar capacity

These allow a solid metal framework to be constructed that will be strong enough to take the heavier, more productive rigid PV panels.

You can also build in some form of adjuster to the framework that will allow the panels to be orientated towards the sun for the best performance.

With luck (or careful planning) a gantry will also keep them aft of the boom, thereby eliminating loss of output caused by boom shading.

The next most popular position for mounting the panels is on a cockpit sprayhood or bimini, although this will often mean using the flexible or semi-flexible panels, which are generally less efficient than the rigid ones for the same area.

ELEVATED MOUNTING

Alternatively, there are kits available for mounting panels onto lifelines, which can allow their elevation to be manually adjusted to a certain degree.

Solar-power_Adjustable-on-a-pole

Pole-mounted panels can be used for maximum adjustability

Finally, panels can be fitted directly onto the deck by either gluing them down using mastic or attaching them onto a rigid support frame.

Once again you will probably need to use semi-flexible panels – especially if the deck surface is curved.

Rigid, glass-coated panels will obviously not be suitable for deck mounting in an area that is frequently walked over.

Don’t be tempted to drill through the panels, even along the edges, as this will invalidate the warranty and possibly damage the panel.

Solar-power_Adjustable-PV-panel-mount

With solid panels, the ability to adjust the angle can add significantly to output

It might seem obvious, but the key to an efficient system is to avoid shading wherever possible.

It’s no good fitting expensive, high-efficiency PVs right under the boom as they’ll perform little better than the cheaper types.

Saying that, in good quality panels each cell will be isolated from the next by a series of diodes (one-way electrical valves), so that if one cell is shaded at least it won’t drag down the other cells within the same panel.

Older panels often didn’t have these, so the slightest partial shading caused the output of the entire panel to cease.

OVERHEATING

Another important factor that is often ignored when installing the panels is that of overheating.

If a PV panel gets too hot, which is quite likely if mounted directly onto a flat surface without an air gap behind, its output will drop quite noticeably.

To allow for some air circulation behind the panels it’s best to apply mastic adhesive in numerous large dabs.

This is best achieved by placing wooden spacer strips between the dabs until the mastic has completely cured, after which the spacers can be removed.

You might need some form of trim around one or more of the outside edges, though, if they are positioned where sheets and other lines might get caught under them.

Raising the panels up will also help water to drain off and thereby helping to avoid possible delamination from sitting in water for too long.

CHARGE CONTROL

A PV module cannot supply an electrical device directly due to the changeability of the sunlight, which in turns varies the current it can produce.

Therefore, it has to be connected to a battery, which stores and smooths its output.

Whatever the size of your solar array you will need to fit a regulator, or charge controller as they are now more commonly known, to the system in order to control the output and to help extract as much power from the panels as possible.

There are two types of PV charge controller.

The older designs, called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) types, were fairly basic voltage regulators and simply output volts at just above battery level.

The latest controllers use Multi Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology and can accept much higher input voltages (up to 240Vdc).

MPPT controllers can be up to 30% more efficient as they use the peak output of the panels to charge the batteries, even compensating for partial shading.

BEWARE FAKE GEAR

If you buy online do be careful to ensure you’re getting what you pay for.

There are a huge number of fake MPPTs out there, which are simply the much cheaper PWM dressed up with fake labels.

It’s hard to tell which is which, but the old adage of ‘if it looks too good to be true, it usually is’ makes good sense.

MPPT controllers are usually bigger and heavier than PWMs, but if in doubt call or email the supplier to discuss the pros and cons of their kit before buying.

If they’re not happy to chat and advise you then I would steer clear of their gear.

Some good MPPTs are made in China, but unless they have a UK supplier, I wouldn’t bother with them as you’ll have no follow-up advice.

To calculate what size controller you need simply divide the panel’s peak power in Watts (Wp) by the battery voltage, which will give you the maximum current (Amps) they could theoretically supply.

For example 240W/12V = 20A. Although it’s unlikely you’ll ever get near the peak output from any PV panel, it’s best to go for the maximum possible.

Induction cooking

Induction cooking is now a reality on board, even without shore power

PV panels come with a short length of cable, usually around 1m long.

Some are supplied with MC4 connectors already attached but most only provide bare wires.

The latter can be easily extended using proper waterproof connections but thought must be given as to the current rating and voltage drop (usually max 3%) for the size of cable you intend to use.

If in doubt, bigger is better!

Panels can sometimes be ordered with the wiring on the back so that the cable can go straight below deck through a hole under the panel.

031_Solar-power

You may need to fit extra battery capacity if you want to run an inverter from solar charging

SERIES OR PARALLEL?

A commonly asked question is ‘should I wire my PV panels in series or in parallel?’

The simple answer is, if there’s any danger of frequent shading to one or more of the panels then install them in parallel.

If wired in series the shading of a single panel will drag down the output from all of the others in the same series.

PARALLEL IS PREFERRED

Most commonly, multiple panels are wired together in parallel to a single charge controller, with diodes protecting each panel from discharging the others should one become partially shaded.

With the advent of MPPT controllers, however, there can sometimes be a benefit to wiring two or more identical panels into a series bank, thereby presenting a higher voltage to the controller.

It’s worth noting that, like batteries, wiring PV panels in series increases the voltage only – the current capacity of the array remains the same as for a single panel.

‘Where’s the benefit of wiring them in series then?’ you might ask.

Well, the higher the voltage fed into the MPPT, the more consistent it will be with its output, which could, in some cases, prove more efficient than a parallel installation with PWM controllers.

It’s also likely to be necessary if you have a 24V domestic system.

SERIES WIRING

Series wiring is usually only done when the cable runs are long, as it helps negate the voltage drop caused by the resistance of the cable.

While a decent controller will have no problem handling the output from four or even five panels wired in series, it is often inappropriate for sailing yachts as shading just one of the panels will reduce the output of the entire series array.

If you need to do so in order to reduce cable runs then it’s best to split the panels between each side of the boat – a series bank on each side.

If you do this, then you would ideally fit a separate controller to each series PV bank and then connect their outputs together in parallel to the battery bank.

Note, however, that panels wired in series must all be the same types with an equal number of cells per panel.

Furthermore, the charge controller needs to be sized for the total of all panel voltages added together and the current rating of one individual panel.

Differently rated panels can be connected together in parallel but only if each panel has its own controller.

The outputs of the individual controllers can then be joined together to go to the battery bank.

BATTERY BANK QUESTION

Another frequently asked question is ‘Can I connect another charging source to the battery bank while the solar array is charging?’

The answer is yes.

Any decent PV controller will be protected against feedback from other charging sources.

Solar-power_8366-Regina

Think carefully about where shade from mast, boom and rigging will fall. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CABLE SIZE AND CONNECTORS

A frequent cause of reduced output from PV arrays is wiring that is too small.

The resistance of a wire conductor increases in direct proportion to its cross-sectional area, so go as big as is practicable for the least cable loss.

Each panel should be supplied with the correctly sized cables for its own maximum output.

But if you’re combining panels, either in parallel or in series, you will clearly need to rate the single feed cable to suit the maximum current available at theoretical peak solar output and to minimise voltage drop.

Likewise, the cable from the controller to the batteries should be sized to suit the controller’s maximum output current and protected with a fuse.

For outside it’s important to use exterior grade cable, which is double- insulated and UV-proof.

WEATHERPROOF CONNECTORS

And wherever possible use compatible weatherproof connectors (usually MC4) to those found on the panels rather than cutting off the plugs and hard-wiring them.

Field- assembly MC4 plugs are available, so you don’t have to drill large holes in the decks or bulkheads when feeding the cables through.

When joining more than one panel together try to use the approved multiway connectors; not only do they keep the wiring neat and tidy, but they also offer a greater contact area than budget terminal blocks.

If you have to use screw-type connectors make sure to fit proper ferrules to the wire first to avoid any stray wires in the multistrand shorting across the terminals.

When feeding a cable from above to below deck, try to go through an upright bulkhead where possible to minimise ‘pooling’ of water around the access hole.

Also, use a proper watertight deck seal that matches the cable you’re using.

If drilling through a cored deck you need to drill a larger hole first, fill it with epoxy resin and then drill the required size hole through the epoxy to ensure no water gets into the deck core.

Ideally, the charge controller should be mounted no further than 2m from the battery bank.

If you need to go further, you’ll require larger cabling to reduce the voltage drop.

solar powered anchor light sailboat

A generous solar array will keep you self- sufficient indefinitely. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CONTROLLER LOAD TERMINALS

There is often confusion over the ‘load’ output of a charge controller (often depicted by a light bulb) and what can safely be connected to these terminals.

Rarely explained in the manual, the load terminals should be pretty much ignored in a marine installation as the output on these terminals is usually very limited (10A max).

Some attach an LED light to them to indicate the controller is operating, but all your usual electrical loads should remain connected to the batteries with the battery terminals on the controller connected directly to that battery bank via a fuse.

It is possible, though, to control a high-current switching relay in certain conditions.

Installation

Parallel installation is more resilient to shading, but a series installation will increase peak charging outputs. A combination of the two offers some of the benefit of both

CIRCUIT MONITORING

Unlike most cheap PWMs, the majority of good quality MPPT charge controllers come with an alphanumeric LCD screen to let you know what is going on.

This can either be a remote display or simply one on the front of the box.

It’s obviously a lot better to have a proper numerical display than to rely on a few flashing LEDs to tell you when something’s not right.

So if your chosen controller doesn’t have one be sure to fit a battery monitor (the shunt type) into your solar circuit between the controller and the batteries.

It doesn’t have to be a very ‘smart’ monitor, just one that can display the voltage and current being supplied by the panels.

For smartphone addicts there are several wifi apps that will do the job remotely on your phone or tablet.

DEVICE PROTECTION

All good quality PV panels feature built-in diode protection between each cell to prevent a shaded cell from dragging down the productive ones.

In addition, there will be internal blocking diodes on the final output to protect the panel from polarity reversal and to ensure that the batteries can’t discharge back into the panel during the night.

The latter can be added externally, the former can’t, so check before you buy.

A fuse, rated just above the maximum current available, should be fitted between each panel and the charge controller.

Another fuse should then be installed between the charge controller’s output and the batteries.

In the case of multiple arrays, this second fuse will be rated higher than the individual panel fuses and should match the maximum current rating of the cable.

With this protection installed other charging devices can be connected in parallel at the battery, meaning the solar can be left connected even when you are hooked up to shore power and the battery charger is operating.

In some circumstances, however, this arrangement can affect the sensing of the battery by the charger, causing it to fall back into float mode.

If this becomes apparent it can be overcome by installing a manual/auto switch to disconnect the solar array when on shore power.

041_Solar-power_SF

Check the flex of the solar panel is sufficient for your deck

EXCESS POWER DUMPING

A solar charge controller works by disconnecting the supply from the PV panels when the batteries are fully charged.

But for some full-time liveaboards in sunny climates that can be considered a waste, when the excess power could be put to good use – heating water, say.

This is commonly done using an inverter to supply AC power to the heating element.

Alternatively, you can now buy a 12Vdc element for your calorifier (hot water tank) and supply this directly from your battery bank.

Both of these methods would require a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) to disconnect the element should the battery voltage drop below a pre-set level.

Don’t expect boiling hot water, as there will probably only be enough spare power to take the chill off it before your battery bank reaches its lower threshold voltage.

A 600W/12V element will draw some 50A, from the batteries, whereas a 1kW AC element run through an inverter will need close to 100A.

Solar-power_Solara-68W-PV

A small, semi-flexible panel will be sufficient for keeping batteries trickle charged, but not for heavy use

RIGID, FLEXIBLE, OR SEMI FLEXIBLE?

Despite massive recent improvements in semi-flexible panels in recent years, the solid glass panels still offer a higher power density.

That said, they are heavier, more awkward to mount and can’t be walked on, so unless you have a dedicated gantry aft, you’re better off choosing the more rugged semi-flexibles.

Modules incorporating monocrystalline cells also have a better output than those with polycrystalline cells (that’s cells made from a single slice of silicon as opposed to layers of smaller pieces).

Output voltage also depends on the number of cells on the panel.

In the past this has commonly been 32, but now some 36 and even 40 cell panels are available.

That said, they’re larger, of course, so an array of interconnected smaller panels might be a better solution.

Module efficiency is now more often around the 20% mark, as opposed to 12-15% for older models and semi- flexible (up to 20° bend) are usually better than flexible (up to 180° bend).

039_Solar-power_Yingli-Panda

A rigid panel is more efficient, but less robust

There are a huge number of panels on the market, but many use the same cells.

Sunpower Maxeon cells are exceptionally good, as are the Panasonic HIT range and LG, but they are pricey.

If the maker is offering a 25-year guarantee instead of a 3-5 year one, you can be pretty confident they’re good.

When it comes to charge controllers it’s definitely worth paying a little more for a decent MPPT.

A cheap PWM might be okay just to keep a small starter battery charged with a 30W panel, but the MPPT will give you much more when it comes to heavy service.

Victron are probably top of the range, while cheaper brands like MakeSkyBlue and EPever are also good value – but treat imports of unclear origin with care.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Duncan Kent

Duncan Kent has been evaluating and reviewing yachts and marine equipment for the past 30 years

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Another problem we had with our new (old) boat was that we had no masthead anchor light. “We just hang a lantern in the rigging, it’s much more visible lower down,” the owner said.  Yes, we bought into this as well, and in fact we quite seriously subscribe to this thinking. Our boat came with a (very useful) light which we plug into a 12V outlet and hang it in our rigging at night. It also makes for a great cockpit light. Because of this we have installed 12V receptacles at various strategic points throughout the boat including one in a cockpit locker.

In this case, we do have wiring going to our main-masthead, but that goes to the tricolor. To do the combination tricolor/anchor light, we would have to run another wire up there, and buy the rather expensive combo light.

In comes Carmanah with their Model 501 solar powered LED (light emitting diode) lights – another really neat product. Using a Fresnel type lens, they are stated to be visible up to one nautical mile, and meet the requirements of the US Coast Guard in 33 CFR part 66 for Private Aids To Navigation. Though sold primarily as dock lights, we thought it might make a good anchor light as well.

According to Carmanah, the Model 501 is the world's most advanced, fully integrated solar-powered LED one nautical mile marine hazard-marking light. It installs in minutes and requires no maintenance or servicing for up to five years. They say that the 501 will withstand many years of harsh environmental conditions including submersion, vibration and intense sunlight. It charges during the day, even under cloudy conditions, and turns on automatically at night. These lights are available in green, red, amber, white and blue light output with one of five standard flash patterns (10, 15, 30, 60 flashes/min & steady-on) – so, for our purposes the choice was easy; white and steady on. 

For the strict day-sailor, these lights are perfect. They can have a masthead light that is ‘on’ every night. A problem? Absolutely not! So what if the light is on every night? The colregs state that you must have an anchor light on when at anchor. They do not state you cannot have one on when you are at your dock or at a mooring. And what harm is it to have your boat illuminated at a mooring, warning an errant boater that your boat is ahead? This is perhaps a good way to keep boats traversing the mooring field from playing bumper boat with your beloved vessel.

We were about to install the light permanently on our mizzen masthead when we realized that we do spend many an evening and night underway. In this scenario having an all around light at the top of our mast would send conflicting messages to an observer on another boat – say sailing and expecting to be the stand-on vessel. What we have done instead is to charge the light outside during the day while cruising and then mount it in a visible place at night – on top of the boom. And yes, after some serious reflection, we do very much agree that the lower placement of the light is better, as it is indeed more in line with where people will be looking as they approach our boat. Just picture that a fast boat, even a dinghy, motoring through an anchorage will not see a little light 60 odd feet up in the sky, but will most certainly see a light 10’ above water level.

2013 Updates:

  • Carmanah M550 - 502 Comparison (546KB pdf)
  • Carmanah 550 Spec Sheet (1.44MB pdf)
  • Carmanah 650 Spec Shet (974KB pdf)
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Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)

Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them) | Life of Sailing

Last Updated by

Capt Chris German

June 15, 2022

Navigation lights on a sailboat can be confusing. If you understand the reason behind why they are the way they are however, they can make a lot more sense.

At their heart, sailboats are really just a power boat and as such must adhere to all power boat rules such as navigation lights. Other times however, a sailboat is classified in a special category. They have a set of additional lights they CAN show as an option, but are not always required to do so.

That’s about as clear as mud if you ask me and I contend that that is where the confusion about lighting a sailboat begins.

Just because you can show a light to identify yourself in times of low visibility, does not mean you have to and then we add in a little sibling rivalry between power and sail and things get downright adversarial when it comes to navigation and the night.

Table of contents

The USCG says You’re a Power Boat Whether You Like It or Not

Much to the consternation of many a sailor who has earned a commercial license to drive their sailboat, when you received your credential from the USCG it says you are a master of steam and power across the top with no mention of wind as a source of propulsion.

It is not until you read the back pages of your little red book that feels like a passport and looks like a US Sailing credential, that you will see the term “sail auxiliary”. That is because most of the time the U.S. Coast Guard knows that you are primarily reliant on your mechanical power to propel your vessel.

It's a sad thing, but the days of commercially viable sail boats are done and all but the most select few even have sails let alone use them as their primary power source. All sail boats by law are powerboats, but not all powerboats are sailboats.

Navigation Lights for a Power Boat

As a power boat, you are required to show certain lights and have been required to do so before power was even invented. 

In the days of man powered vessels like the viking ships who relied on oars while in close quarters to power their vessels, they needed to show other boats, friend or foe, where they were by showing lanterns in the dark to identify themselves. As you know, it is a time honored rule among all the nations of the world both past and present, that you must avoid a collision at all costs while at sea and even the viking knew that you should not run into things.

By lighting the front and back of your boat, you could warn other boats of your presence as well as identify which way you were heading. As such there is a very specific rule in the Code of Federal Regulations Number 46 (CFR46 by common name) that spells out with detail how many, the color, the luminosity or brightness, the angle of visibility and the location of all of the lights required for navigation on every single boat, seaplane, submarine and other nondescript vessel conceived by man to date that they must show while underway in reduced visibility.

And there is no flexibility in the rules.

As such a power boat, and by extension all sailboats, MUST, without question show one green light on the starboard bow and one red light on the port bow and one all around white light or lights while operating in reduced visibility. These lights should shine at all 360 degrees of visibility with the bow lights shining at an angle of dead ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam and the stern lights shining 225 degrees dead aft. A forward facing masthead light that is white in color shall shine forward to comply with the directive that all vessels must carry an all around white light. For more read here .

As you can see, there isn’t much wiggle room when it comes to lights that must be shown.

Sailboats get a little flexibility with lights

Sailboats however, are a little different when they are in fact sailboats, which is only when you are entirely reliant on the wind for power and in no way reliant on any mechanical or manual means of propulsion. And for good reason.

Back in the day when men were men and sailboats were wooden, fire was a major concern. Sails were coated with wax and other flammable substances and the wood on boats was saturated with oils and grease. Even the ropes were plant materials saturated with oils to keep them pliable and strong.

Add those highly flammable substances to a parching environment like the sea and you had what was essentially a giant floating tinderbox.

Then tell that giant floating tinderbox that they need to identify themselves to the world at large at night using oil lamps with flames because batteries and lights were not invented yet. It didn't take very long or very many ships burning to the water line for the Governments to say to the sailboats, you get to do things a little different.

As such, sailboats are given special dispensation when it comes to lights aloft. They don't have to show an all around white light in their rigging because no one wanted to set their rig on fire with oil lamps 60 feet up in their rig.

However, when a sailboat takes their sails down such as when they are powered or at anchor, they must resume the display of an all around white light or lights aloft. That became a real challenge with aluminum masts and the disappearance of rat lines on the shrouds because there was no easy way to climb the rig and check the bulbs up the mast on a regular basis. 

Red over Green Sailing Machine

I have no idea where the history of this particular light comes from, but if you ever take a deck exam with the USCG, you better remember this mnemonic. An all around red light over an all around green may be displayed on a vessel during times of reduced visibility to indicate that a vessel is operating under sail power alone. 

I won’t even speculate on how or why they came up with this particular light configuration, but if you want to use these lights as a sailing vessel, you can do so, but that means that you will need three all round lights at the top of your mast, an all around white, an all around red and an all around green, just in that order.

The red over green is to be displayed in addition to the running lights or the red and green bow lights with the 225 degree stern light. As always, when the motor comes on, so does the steaming light or the forward facing white light that is also usually about ¾ of the way up on your mast to complete the requirement of an all around white light that indicates a power vessel.

What is a “steaming light” and why are you mentioning it now?

Most sailboat electrical panels will have a switch that is labelled “steaming light” and it will only come on when your anchor light is off. This is probably the most confusing part of sailboat navigation lights so if you are confused about this, you're in good company as most people are. 

A “steaming” light is named thusly, going back to the days of steam powered sailboats where when they fired up their boilers and doused the sails, they became a power boat once again. There aren’t too many steam powered boats, let alone steam powered sailboats, but the name stuck and it is a vestige of a bygone era.

Either way, when you fire up your motor, you turn on your “steaming light” and that locks out the all around white light which is used for anchoring to minimize the number of switches on your panel and reduce the number of wires in your mast. The fewer wires, the less chance of something not working or becoming disconnected.

The steaming light and the anchor light both go up the mast, but you can’t use an all around white light while using the 225 degree stern light at the deck level because to other boaters you would look like you have two white lights from the stern and that would be confusing.

The anchor light is used exclusively for anchoring while the steaming light is used to indicate you are a power vessel while underway.

As to why I am mentioning it now in the article, is because this would have blown your mind if I started with this subject cause it can be really confusing stuff.

Aspect Recognition with Lights

Remember when I said earlier that lights can help you tell others which way you are heading as well as tell you which way other boats are heading? That is called the aspect of the vessel and the USCG tests you on this for your deck exam as well. 

Knowing that the bow lights go 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on both sides or 112.5 degrees on each side, and the stern light faces 225 degrees aft for a total of 360 degrees of visibility, you can tell a lot about where a boat is heading and who has the right of way.

One thing that's easy to remember is red means stop and if you see a vessel's red light, it means stop as you are the give way vessel and approaching the other vessel from his port side. Conversely it works with green as well as that means you are approaching from the other vessel's starboard side and you are the standon vessel.

If you see a red and green light equally low on the horizon, that means your heading dead on into another vessel's path and conversely if all you see is a white light low on the horizon, it means you are overtaking another vessel power or sail, we don’t care because it is an overtaking situation. However, any time you do see a white light aloft in addition to the red and green bow lights, you know you are encountering a power boat.

Then there are angular approaches as well, where you see white and red or white and green light low on the horizon. You know in that case you are seeing a portion of the bow lights and stern lights from the side approaches of a vessel. Based on which direction those lights are heading, you can deduce which way that boat is going in relation to your boat.

So put it all together and you see a green light and a white light low on the horizon with a red over green light aloft, you know that you are approaching a sailboat that is traveling to your port and that might make you the standon vessel. That is of course, if we didn’t concern ourselves with windward and leeward and port tacks and starboard tacks, but that is a discussion for another article. So stay tuned when we talk about sailing rules and the right of way. But for now, do good, have fun and sail far.

Related Articles

Capt Chris German is a life long sailor and licensed captain who has taught thousands to sail over the last 20 years. In 2007, he founded a US Sailing-based community sailing school in Bridgeport, CT for inner city youth and families. When Hurricane Sandy forced him to abandon those efforts, he moved to North Carolina where he set out to share this love for broadcasting and sailing with a growing web-based television audience through The Charted Life Television Network.

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Navigation Lights for Sailboats (And How To Read Them)

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Solar mast head lights

  • Thread starter Blane
  • Start date Apr 12, 2013
  • Hunter Owner Forums

WE are all trying to save power on the hook. Has anyone tried a solar light on the mast head? If so is there anyway to turn it off when at the dock?  

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

Any anchor light should have an I/O at the electrical panel, regardless of how it is powered. Many solar lights have their own built-in daylight switches, assuming you have an I/O wired in anyway. Many skippers have used LED anchor lights with solar lights in the cockpit in addition. Your boat, your choice. Good luck. The trick is simply finding out what's on the market. If you do a search on LEDs on this or any other forum, you'll be reading for weeks. There was a post here last week about LEDs that included lots of links to LED providers.  

Mulf

gettinthere

We bought our masthead LED anchor light from Cruising Solutions. It has a photo sensor to shut off at dawn and on at dusk. Works great, USCG approved.  

Hello Below

Hello Below

Mulf said: Rule 22 - Visibility of Lights The lights prescribed in these Rules shall have an intensity as specified in [ Section 8 ] of Annex I to these [ Regulations | Rules ] so as to be visible at the following minimum ranges: (c) In vessels of less than 12 meters in length: (i) a masthead light, 2 miles; (ii) a sidelight, 1 miles; (iii) a towing light, 2 miles; (iv) a white red, green or yellow all-round light, 2 miles. (v) a special flashing light, 2 miles. Click to expand

Bill Roosa

Consider the following: using an led anchor light powered by the batteries and a separate solar panel attached to the batteries reduces the power by using led and you get power over and above that required to power the light. Solves 2 problems at the same time.  

Bob 04 H260

Bob 04 H260

Mulf said: There are requirements for the visibility & strength of all navigation lights (portion of rule 22 below). However, from what I can see, there is no such requirement for a light used only as an anchor light (portion of rule 30 below). So, if you are going to use it as both, whatever light you do must comply. If only at anchor you just need to be sure you can be seen. Mulf From: http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesContent#rule22 Rule 22 - Visibility of Lights The lights prescribed in these Rules shall have an intensity as specified in [ Section 8 ] of Annex I to these [ Regulations | Rules ] so as to be visible at the following minimum ranges: (c) In vessels of less than 12 meters in length: (i) a masthead light, 2 miles; (ii) a sidelight, 1 miles; (iii) a towing light, 2 miles; (iv) a white red, green or yellow all-round light, 2 miles. (v) a special flashing light, 2 miles. Rule 30 - Anchored Vessels and Vessels Aground (a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen: (i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball; (ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light. Click to expand

Don Crowther

Don Crowther

I've been looking at this site for an anchor light. http://www.bebi-electronics.com/owl.html  

Scott B

gettinthere said: We bought our masthead LED anchor light from Cruising Solutions. It has a photo sensor to shut off at dawn and on at dusk. Works great, USCG approved. Click to expand
Scott B said: Is this the one. Does it stay on all night? One problem with solar is not lasting throught he night. Looks very interesting. http://cruisingsolutions.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/ Click to expand

Thanks for the responses. My concerns were turning the light out while at the dock. I'll be the only boat with the masthead light on. On the other hand that has some positives if you get loaded and trying to find your slip.  

Bob 04 H260 said: Scott, I think this just an LED bulb that replaces the bulb in your existing masthead housing, so not a solar powered unit but probably draws so little current it would be negligible. Bob Click to expand
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Adding Solar Power to a Sailboat

  • By Emily Fagan
  • Updated: October 18, 2019

sailboat solar panels

During our nearly four-year cruise of Mexico, my husband, Mark, and I lived almost exclusively on 555 watts of solar power charging a 640-amp-hour house battery bank. We anchored out virtually every night aboard our 2008 Hunter 44DS, Groovy , and relied on the sun for power. During one 10-week stretch, while we waited for a replacement engine alternator to arrive, our boat’s solar panels were our sole source of power. We had no backup charging system to turn to, and yet we lived and sailed comfortably the entire time. Mounting solar panels on a sailboat was not difficult, but a few key decisions made a huge difference in how effective our panels were.

A solar-power installation on a sailboat is made up of two independent systems: one system to charge the batteries, and another system to provide 120-volt AC power for household appliances. In the charging system, the solar panels convert sunlight into electrical current and deliver it to the batteries via a solar charge controller. Similar to a voltage regulator, the charge controller acts as a gatekeeper to protect the batteries from receiving more current than they need as they are being charged. In the AC power system, an inverter or inverter/charger converts the 12-volt DC power in the battery into 120 volts AC whenever it is turned on.

Panel Positioning and Wiring Considerations

One of the biggest challenges for sailors installing solar power on a sailboat is finding a place on the boat where the panels will be shaded as little as possible. Just a few square inches of shade on one panel can render that panel all but inoperable. Unfortunately, between the mast, radome, spreaders and boom, shadows cross the deck all day long, especially as the boat swings back and forth at anchor.

What’s worse, if the panels are wired in series rather than in parallel, this little bit of shade can shut down the entire solar-panel array. When we installed solar power on Groovy , we had already lived exclusively on solar power in an RV for over two years. Our RV solar panels had been wired in series, and we had witnessed the array shutting down current production when just half of one panel was shaded.

Choosing whether to wire the panels in series or parallel on a boat affects the wire gauge required, which is why many solar-power installers lean toward wiring the panels in series. Panels wired in series can be wired all the way to the solar charge controller with a thinner-gauge wire than those wired in parallel. This is because the voltage of panels wired in series is additive, while the current remains constant, so the current flowing is just that of a single panel. In contrast, the current flowing from panels that are wired in parallel is additive, while the voltage across them is not. This means that in a parallel installation, the current going to the charge controller is several times higher and requires much thicker cable to avoid any voltage loss over the length of the wire.

Not only is thinner-gauge wire less expensive, but it is also more supple and easier to work with, making the job of snaking it in and around various crevices in the boat and connecting it to the solar charge controller much less of a struggle. Thus the choice between series and parallel wiring boils down to a trade-off between system performance, expense and ease of solar system installation.

Luckily, the size of the wire can be reduced if higher-­voltage solar panels are chosen. Since watts are determined by multiplying volts by amps, a higher-voltage panel that generates the same watts as a lower-voltage panel will produce less current. Therefore, selecting nominal 24-volt panels instead of 12-volt panels allows for the use of thinner wire sizes no matter how they are wired.

sailboat solar panels

Our Marine Solar Panel Design Choices

In our installation, we decided to mount three 185-watt, 24-volt (nominal) Kyocera solar panels high above the cockpit, well aft of the boom, as far away as possible from potential shade. Our Hunter came with a big, solid stainless-steel arch, and we turned to Alejandro Ulloa, a brilliant metal fabricator at Baja Naval Boatyard in Ensenada, Mexico, to build a polished stainless-steel solar-panel arch extension onto the existing structure. He designed the arch extension with integrated telescoping davits to hoist our dinghy as well as support the solar panels. These davits were strong enough — and the lines and blocks had enough purchase — that either of us could lift our light Porta-Bote dinghy with its 6-horsepower outboard without a winch.

We spaced the panels about a half-inch apart and wired them in parallel. Using two twin-lead wires, we snaked the three positive leads and one common ground down through the inside of the arch tubes so they wouldn’t be visible, and placed wire loom over the exposed wires under the panels.

The junction points for the three parallel panels were on positive and negative bus bars inside a combiner box, all mounted in a cockpit lazarette. Inside the combiner box, we installed three breakers, one for each panel. This gave us the ability to shut off any or all of the panels if we needed to (we never did).

We mounted a Xantrex solar charge controller (model XW MPPT 60-150) in a hanging locker, as close to the batteries as possible, in a spot where it was easy to monitor and program. We ran twin-lead wire from the combiner box to the charge controller and from there to the batteries.

Our boat came with three new 12-volt Mastervolt 4D AGM house batteries, all wired in parallel, for a total of 480 amp-hours of capacity. We wanted a bigger house battery bank, and because it is best for the age, type and size of the batteries to be matched, we added a fourth new Mastervolt 4D AGM house battery, which brought our total to 640 amp-hours. Our batteries were installed at the lowest point in the hull, below the floorboards, and they ran the length of the saloon, from just forward of the companionway stairs to just aft of the V-berth stateroom door.

The best way to charge a bank of batteries that are wired in parallel is to span the entire battery bank with the leads coming from the charge controller. We did this by connecting the positive lead from the charge controller to the positive terminal of the first battery in the bank, and the negative lead from the charge controller to the negative terminal of the last battery. By spanning the entire bank, the batteries were charged equally rather than having the charging current focused on just the first battery in the bank.

We feel that AGM batteries are superior to wet cell (flooded) batteries because they can be installed in any orientation, don’t require maintenance, can’t spill (even in a capsize), and charge more quickly. Our Mastervolt batteries, like almost all AGM batteries on the market, are dual-purpose, combining the very different characteristics of both deep-cycle and start batteries. Our batteries work well, but if we were doing an installation from scratch today, we would consider the new Trojan Reliant AGM batteries. These batteries are engineered strictly for deep-cycle use and have been optimized to provide consistent current and maximize battery life.

Our boat came with a Xantrex Freedom 2,500-watt inverter/charger wired into the boat’s AC wiring system with a transfer switch. The inverter/charger performed two functions. While the boat was disconnected from shore power, it converted the batteries’ 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power, allowing us to operate 120-volt appliances, like our microwave. When the boat was connected to shore power, it charged the batteries.

Because this inverter/charger was a modified-sine-wave inverter, mimicking AC ­current with a stair-stepped square wave, we also had a 600-watt pure-sine-wave inverter to power our potentially more sensitive electronic devices. We chose Exeltech because its inverters produce an electrical signal that is clean enough to power medical equipment, and they are NASA’s choice for both the Russian and American sides of the International Space Station. For simplicity, rather than wiring the inverter into the cabin’s AC wiring, we plugged ordinary household power strips into the AC outlets on the inverter and plugged our appliances into the power strips. Like the charge controller, the inverter must be located as close to the batteries as possible. Ours was under a settee.

sailboat solar panels

Shade’s Impact on Sailboat Solar Panels

Once our solar installation was completed on our sailboat, we closely observed the effects of shade on our solar-panel array. We were often anchored in an orientation that put the panels in full sun. Just as often, however, we were angled in such a way that shade from the mast and boom covered portions of our panels. It was fascinating to monitor the solar charge controller’s LCD display whenever the sun was forward of the beam — the current from the panels to the batteries fluctuated up and down as we swung at anchor.

Taking notes one morning, we noticed that the charging current was repeatedly creeping up and down between 9.5 and 24.5 amps as the boat moved to and fro. When the entire solar-panel array was in full sun, it generated 24.5 amps of current. When we moved so the mast shaded a portion of one panel, the array generated 15 amps. When it shaded portions of two panels and only one was in full sun, the array produced just 9.5 amps. Of course, it would have been preferable to see a steady 24.5 amps all morning, but this sure beat watching the current drop to zero whenever a shadow crossed a panel.

We discovered that shade makes a huge impact while sailing, too. Surprisingly, it is far worse to have the panels shaded by the sails than to have the panels in full sun but tilted away from its direct rays. One afternoon, we noticed that while we were on a tack that tilted the panels away from the sun, they generated 24.5 amps of current, whereas on a tack where the panels were tilted toward the sun but two of the three were partially shaded by the sails, the current dropped to a mere 10 amps.

Reflections On Our Solar Panel Installation

A wonderful and surprising side benefit of our large solar panels and arch system was that the setup created fabulous shade over the jumpseats at the stern end of the cockpit. Our metal fabricator, Alejandro, placed a support strut at hand-holding height, and sitting in those seats feels secure and comfortable while sailing, no matter the conditions.

After living on solar power for eight years of cruising and land-yacht travel, we’ve learned that you can never have too much solar power. Groovy’s 555 watts was enough to run all our household appliances as needed, including our nearly 4-cubic-foot DC refrigerator, two laptops, a TV/DVD player, and lights at night. However, it was not quite enough power to run all that plus our stand-alone 2.5-cubic-foot DC freezer during the short days and low sun angles of the winter months without supplemental charging from the engine alternator every few days. For the 10 weeks that we did not have a functioning alternator, our solution was to turn off the freezer, which enabled our batteries to reach full charge every afternoon.

Solar power made a world of difference in our cruise. Not only did it allow us to live comfortably and with ample electricity for weeks on end when our engine alternator went on the blink, but as a “set-it-and-forget-it” system, it also gave us the freedom to anchor out for as long as we wished without worrying about the batteries. In our eyes, the solar-panel arch enhanced the beauty and lines of our boat, giving her a sleek and clean appearance. It was true icing on the cake to discover that the panels and arch system also provided much-needed shade over the cockpit and helm from the hot tropical sunshine. If you are preparing for a cruise, consider turning to the sun for electricity and outfitting your sailboat with solar power.

The Installation:

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Emily and Mark Fagan offer cruising tips and share their stories and photos on their website, roadslesstraveled.us . They are currently enjoying a land cruise across America aboard an RV.

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