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sailing yacht upwind

How A Boat Sails Upwind

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Learn To Sail , Sailing Tips

 A sailor’s life revolves around the wind. Its direction and its strength govern where he can sail, with what degree of difficulty or comfort, and how quickly. Naturally, the language of sailing reflects how sailors orient themselves and everything around them with reference to the wind.

Upwind and Downwind  

The sailor’s world is roughly divided into two hemispheres: upwind and downwind. anywhere or anything in the direction from which the wind is blowing is upwind; anywhere or anything in the direction toward which it’s blowing is downwind. 

Points of Sail Diagram

When sailing, you trim the sails according to the wind direction relative to the boat. As you learn to sail, the all-important “points of sail” become second nature. When you are out on the water, you’ll be constantly aware of them as the wind changes and as your course changes. You will continually fine-tune the trim of your sails to suit the degree to which you are sailing upwind or downwind. 

By understanding the points of sail and their implications on crew comfort and sail trim, the helmsman and the crew will be able to work together to move the boat efficiently to any destination they choose. 

Sailing Close-hauled  

You sail close-hauled on the very edge of the no-sail-zone — making your best speed toward a destination to windward. This involves a balancing act between boat speed and your course, or angle to the wind. For most boats, that angle is about 45 degrees to the true-wind direction, but it varies with the design of the boat, the shape of the sails (both their geometry and physical condition), and the strength of the wind. 

If you attempt to sail a course above close-hauled, or closer to the wind, the sails will no longer deliver full power and the boat will slow down. Sailing a course below close-hauled (or footing off), would be faster but, if your destination is upwind, you would not be making as much progress toward it. Close-hauled is that happy confluence of speed and course that brings the boat upwind with maximum efficiency. Many sailors find close-hauled the most enjoyable point of sail. The wind (this is the apparent wind, remember) will feel the strongest in the crews faces, while the boat bounces along merrily over the waves (maybe sending a bit of spray-on deck) heeling more than on any other point of sail. All of this adds to the exhilaration and fun of sailing. 

Start on a beam reach and head up about 45 degrees. Concurrently trim the jib sheet tightly (but not rock hard). Trim the mainsail to the point that its luff just stops bubbling. The boom will lie a little off centerline. experiment with small changes to the trim of both sails — it’s a fine art!

Steering is especially important when sailing close-hauled because with the sails pulled in tight there’s no more to trim in. The driver must be constantly adjusting course to any shifts of wind.

Telltales, short dark yarns or nylon strips streaming on the jib a foot or two back from the luff are an excellent closehauled steering aid.

sailing yacht upwind

Except in very light winds, when the boat is barely moving, the helmsman, whether using a tiller or a wheel, should always sit on the windward side for visibility and control. When you’re steering just a little too close to the wind, or pinching, the warning signs are obvious: The jib begins to luff at its leading edge, signaling your entry into the no-sail zone. 

When you steer just slightly lower than your optimum close-hauled course, the sails will look full but you are no longer making your best speed to windward. Get in the groove! Concentrate on steering as close to the wind as possible without causing that small luff in the front of the jib with its associated loss of speed.

So now you’re in the groove, but don’t get too comfortable. You’re trying to get to windward, and there’s only one way to get there and that’s by a series of changes in course.

sailing yacht upwind

Tacking — Getting From Zig to Zag and Back  

A sailboat cannot make any forward progress directly into the wind. When you tried to sail too close to the wind, the sails simply flapped and you lost headway. You may even have put the boat in irons. To reach a destination directly upwind, you have to sail a zigzag course. each leg of the zigzag will be approximately 45 degrees away from the direct line between your starting point and your destination. Think of climbing up a mountain on a trail with a series of switchbacks. This means at some point, you have to get from your zig course to your zag course, which is on the other side of the no-sail zone.

Tacking Defined

When you turn the boat so that its bow passes entirely through the wind — that is, through the no-sail zone — that’s called tacking. The word tack gets a bit of a workout here, just as you will when you tack the boat. 

When the boat is sailing with the wind blowing on the starboard side, it’s on starboard tack, and when the wind is blowing on the port side, the moving sailboat is on port tack. To reach a destination directly toward the wind, you have to sail, using the steering skills you just learned, part of the way close-hauled on starboard tack and part of the way close-hauled on port tack. To bring the boat from close-hauled on starboard tack to close-hauled on port tack, you must pass through the no-sail zone — you have to tack. 

Tack, Tacking, And Tacks 

Where do the apparently multiple meanings of “tack” come from? An old-time square sail was supported along its top by a horizontal spar, or yard, and had control lines on the bottom two corners. When sailing closehauled, one of those corners was hauled forward and down, and was therefore the tack of the sail, and the other was hauled aft. If the wind was on the starboard side, the starboard corner was the tack — starboard tack. To go from sailing with the wind on the ship’s starboard side to sailing with it on the port side, the crew had to literally change tacks. 

Of course, we also use the term coming about to mean tacking. 

Sailing Upwind

The ability of a modern sailboat to sail close-hauled, sometimes even closer than 40 degrees to the wind’s direction, is due to the boat’s design and the shape of its sails and the forces they generate.

Lift, Drag, and Leeway  

The net sum of the forces in play (sail, keel, and rudder) is the forward motion we enjoy. the wind blowing over the airfoil-shaped sails creates a forward force in the form of aerodynamic lift arising from the pressure difference between the windward and leeward sides of the sails. It also creates the sideways force that causes heeling and, even when the forces are in balance and the boat is steering “straight,” a small amount of leeway. 

The hull and keel resist motion, both forward and sideways, because of their inherent drag, but once moving forward, the keel, because of the leeway, is at an angle to the water flow. In just the same way as the rudder generates lift when turned, the keel generates an additional forward force from its hydrodynamic lift. 

When the forces are balanced, the boat sails in a straight line but with a few degrees of leeway. however, because of the frequent variations in the wind’s strength and the effect of waves on the hull and keel, this balance is hard to achieve simply with sail trim. the rudder provides the turning force that corrects for changes in the balance. 

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How to Sail Against the Wind.

Sailing Explained: How to Sail Against the Wind

sailing yacht upwind

Table of Contents

Sailing is a beautiful and majestic sport. It’s pretty clear how a boat sails downwind with the breeze pushing against the sails, but have you ever wondered: how do you sail against the wind?

Ready to set sail? Discover sailboat rentals near you

Sailing is about aerodynamics & hydrodynamics

Sailboat race.

The aerodynamics is how wind acts on the sails, and the hydrodynamics is how forward motion is created with the help of underwater lateral resistance. Sails are basically airplane wings set on end. As the wind comes in contact with the forward end of the curved foil (the luff of the sail) it splits, passing on both the downwind (leeward) and upwind (windward) sides.

The wind on the leeward side travels a longer distance due to the curvature of the sail and creates a low-pressure area, while the wind on the windward side travels a shorter distance and reaches the aft end faster. The combination creates an aerodynamic lift that “pulls” or “sucks” the boat forward.

That’s only half the equation: pressure in the sails will still push the boat more sideways than pull it forward. That’s where the keel or centerboard below the waterline comes into play by transferring sideways pressure into forward momentum.

With the lift of the sails and the lateral push or hydrodynamics of the keel, upwind sailing is achieved. Where the wind concentrates its force in the sails is called the center of effort while the keel below is called the center of lateral resistance.

READ MORE: 7 Best Sailboat Accessories

No, boats cannot sail directly into the wind

Wind in sails.

Instead, they make progress toward an upwind mark by sailing at angles, which are called “points of sail.” Close hauled is roughly 45 degrees off the true breeze, a close reach is 60 degrees, and a beam reach is at 90 degrees. When sailing lower (greater degrees) than a beam reach, you’re no longer sailing upwind.

If the bow faces directly into the wind, the boat cannot make forward progress and is said to be “in irons.” When sailing very close to the wind direction, a boat is said to be “pinching” or “beating” which isn’t a very efficient way to sail.

Changing direction when sailing upwind is called “tacking” and it’s when the bow of the boat is brought through the eye of the wind. Turning upwind is called “heading up” and turning downwind is “falling off.” When the wind first passes over the starboard rail, you’re on a starboard tack and vice versa.

Boats sail in true wind, which is the breeze that’s actually blowing at a given speed and angle. However, the boat is actually responding to the apparent wind, which is the angle and speed of the breeze that is felt on a moving vessel.

Upwind sailing is a craft

Sailing into the sunset.

While the basics of upwind sailing are simple, it can take years to master the nuances of sail trim (moving sails in and out) and sail shape (making other adjustments to change the way the wind affects the sail). The sails are sheeted in (made flatter) by pulling in the sheeting lines or loosened to create a “belly” or depth in the sail.

Pro tip: At age 16, Jessica Watson became the youngest person to sail around the world without stopping and without assistance. Talk about inspiration!

Sheeting in (bringing the sails closer to the centerline) enables the boat to point higher (sail closer to the true wind) while easing out (loosening the aft end of the sail) creates more power. If a sail begins to luff or flutter when sailing upwind, it needs to either be trimmed in or the boat must change direction and fall off the wind to get more efficient airflow over the foils.

Learning on a small sailboat is ideal as they react immediately to changing conditions, so you learn the cause and effect of your actions on sail trim. The theory is easy. The actual practice takes years to perfect, and it’s what separates good sailors from newbies.

Once you have it down, you can (eventually) sail or zig-zag your way to just about anywhere. Perhaps then you can charter a larger boat from a peer-to-peer rental service like Boatsetter and explore new watery horizons.

Sailor, there’s more where that came from:

  • 10 Best Beginner Sailboats  
  • Types of Sailboats  
  • Do Sailboats Have Motors?
  • Sailing, Destinations, & Boating Basics: Explore the Boatsetter blog

Boatsetter is a unique boat-sharing platform that gives everyone— whether you own a boat or you’re just renting — the chance to experience life on the water. You can list a boat , book a boat , or make money as a captain .

List your boat & start earning an avg. of $20K yearly with Boatsetter

Zuzana-Prochazka

Zuzana Prochazka is an award-winning freelance journalist and photographer with regular contributions to more than a dozen sailing and powerboating magazines and online publications including Southern Boating, SEA, Latitudes & Attitudes and SAIL. She is SAIL magazines Charter Editor and the Executive Director of Boating Writers International. Zuzana serves as judge for SAIL’s Best Boats awards and for Europe’s Best of Boats in Berlin. 

A USCG 100 Ton Master, Zuzana founded and manages a flotilla charter organization called Zescapes that takes guests adventure sailing at destinations worldwide. 

Zuzana has lived in Europe, Africa and the United States and has traveled extensively in South America, the islands of the South Pacific and Mexico. 

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Sailing Upwind and Downwind – the Differences

A sailing yacht

Sailboats are driven by the wind, so the direction of the wind is crucial to how you sail and where you can sail. How close to the wind direction you have to sail affects how the boat moves and how you must sail it.

Points of sail and how sails work

sailing yacht upwind

To understand the difference between upwind and downwind sailing, you need to know how sailing works and how boats move against and with the wind. Sailboats can not sail straight into the wind, and to sail in any other direction requires different sail trim positions and rig settings.

How to assess where the wind comes from

Picture a boat on a compass. If the true wind is coming from due north, most sailboats can’t sail in a ninety-degree arc from about 315° through 45°. But the wind rarely blows from absolute north, so it’s the direction of the wind relative to the boat that matters.

Wind at a right angle to the bow (or at 90°) is striking the boat directly on the beam . If the wind is forward of the beam, there will be some upwind sailing. If it is aft of the beam, it’s more downwind. The three major “zones” of sailing are upwind (or close hauled ) with the wind forward up to the “no sail zone,” across the wind or reaching from close-hauled through 135°, and downwind or running (135° through 180°). Reaching includes close reaching , which is reaching up to about close hauled, beam reaching with the wind mostly on the beam, and broad reaching off to 135°.

What is the apparent wind?

Riding a bike at knots on a windless day, you’ll feel a “wind” in your face of ten knots. But if you bike into a ten knot wind at the same speed, it will feel like twenty knots. But if the ten knot breeze is directly behind you, you feel no wind at all. If the wind is from your right side, you will feel a breeze from about forty-five degrees ahead and to the right.

True wind is the direction and force of the wind over the water (or land), but the apparent wind is how the total wind feels when you add in the observer’s motion. On a sailboat, apparent wind has an enormous impact on how the boat feels and moves and how you sail.

Read also: The 5 best sailing boats under 60 feet

You sail upwind when you sail against the wind

Sailing close hauled, sails provide lift like an airplane wing to power the boat against the breeze. Sails are trimmed tight with only a slight curve, and the forces against the sails and the keel push the boat forward through the water. The driving sails are the mainsail and a headsail – either a larger Genoa or smaller jib.

Because a sailboat can’t sail straight into the wind, the only way to make progress upwind is to zig-zag upwind, called tacking . When tacking upwind, you sail for a while as close to the wind with the wind over one side of the boat, then you turn the boat across the wind and sail the other direction as close to the wind, repeating as needed to make the best progress upwind. Read also : How to sail upwind ?

The differents positions in sailing, cross wind, straight tailwind...

Sailing upwind feels fast, since the boat heels, apparent wind is high, and you’re often sailing straight into wind and chop. Downwind sailing often feels slower because it’s flatter and the wind is at your back so it feels lighter.

Sailing upwind feels faster

How to sail upwind

Yachts designed for different uses handle differently in varying conditions. For example, racing yachts designed for maximum upwind sailing angles may heel aggressively in less wind than a heavier cruising boat. It will sail faster upwind and down, but it may not have the same comfort as the cruising boat. Race boats optimized for downwind conditions will handle better off the wind than those designed for all-around conditions.

Many things affect how a boat feels and sails upwind, including the keel type, displacement, sail plan, rig size, and beam. Boats optimized for stability and comfort often trade stability for sailing angles, giving up a little speed for comfort. And boats built for speed may be just the opposite – getting them sailing their best upwind may take half the crew sitting up on the rail just to flatten out the heel!

Read also: Navigating The World: Choosing The Right Size Boat For Your Round-The-World Sailing Adventure

Catamaran upwind sailing can be a little different

Catamarans are far more comfortable sailing upwind than monohulls, primarily because they don’t heel. Flat sailing makes a world of difference for crew comfort. Because of their design, catamarans lose a little ability to sail as close to the wind as a similarly sized monohull. But they make up the loss in pointing ability with higher straight-line speed and are faster in many conditions.

Motor yachts are less affected by wind direction

Since power yachts don’t need wind to sail, they can go in any direction. It doesn’t affect how they run, except how the skipper picks a track through the waves that is comfortable and safe.

The wind affects power yachts, since the breeze will push on all the areas above the waterline blowing against it. But course and motoring directions are more heavily affected by waves and water motion than the wind direction.

Use our Sailing Distance calculator

Sailing upwind makes you feel like a sailor

Moving a yacht against the wind isn’t a natural motion – a yacht adrift will always move with the wind and current. Taking the helm and the sheets and making a boat claw her way upwind takes more skill than just steering around and working a throttle.

Sailing downwind in heavy wind can give you a similar rush, and takes a little more skill and daring when the boat is powered up for maximum speed. But sailing off the breeze can be slow and gentle, too. And it’s hard for anything to compare with the rush of taking your boat out into the wind and getting where you want to go despite the elements!

Read also: How to sail upwind?

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How Does a Boat Sail Upwind? Unveiling the Mechanics of Against the Wind Sailing

How Does a Boat Sail Upwind? Unveiling the Mechanics of Against the Wind Sailing

Sailing is often associated with gliding effortlessly downwind, with billowing sails capturing the wind’s energy. However, a true test of a sailor’s skill lies in their ability to navigate upwind, a maneuver that seems counterintuitive considering the wind’s direction. The physics and mechanics behind sailing upwind are fascinating and crucial for understanding the art of sailing. In this article, we delve into the principles that enable a boat to sail against the wind.

Understanding the Challenge: The No-Go Zone

When sailing upwind, a sailboat must navigate a narrow angle, known as the “no-go zone,” where it cannot sail directly into the wind. This seemingly insurmountable obstacle is due to the aerodynamic principles of lift and drag. As the wind strikes the sail, it creates an area of low pressure on the windward side and an area of high pressure on the leeward side. This pressure differential results in lift, much like an airplane wing generates lift in the air. However, at a certain point, the boat cannot sail closer to the wind without losing this lift and stalling.

In the context of sailing, the no-go zone typically falls within about 45 degrees on either side of the direction from which the wind is blowing. This means that if the wind is coming directly from the front of the boat (at 0 degrees), the boat cannot sail closer than 45 degrees to either side of this direction. This constraint poses a challenge when trying to sail directly into the wind.

Utilizing Apparent Wind

To overcome the limitations of the no-go zone, sailors rely on a concept known as apparent wind. Apparent wind is the combination of the true wind – the wind blowing over the Earth’s surface – and the wind generated by the boat’s motion through the water. As the boat sails at an angle to the true wind, the wind experienced by the boat appears to come from a different direction and at a higher speed than the true wind.

When sailing upwind, the boat’s course is adjusted to create the optimal angle between the true wind and the apparent wind. This enables the sails to maintain their lift-generating shape, even though the boat is technically sailing into the wind. By continually adjusting the sail angle and boat direction, sailors can effectively tack back and forth to make progress upwind.

The Mechanics of Against the Wind Sailing

>>Also Read: How Does Sailing Work? The Physics of Sailing

Tacking: Navigating Upwind

Tacking is the primary technique sailors use to make headway against the wind. It involves sailing the boat on a zigzagging course, alternating between sailing close to the wind on one side and then the other. The process can be broken down into several steps:

  • Sailing Off the Wind:  The boat starts by sailing at an angle away from the wind, known as a broad reach. This allows the sails to generate lift and propels the boat forward.
  • Initiating the Turn:  As the boat gains momentum, the sailor steers the boat into the wind, crossing through the no-go zone. The boat’s momentum and the angle of the sails generate forward lift, preventing the boat from stalling.
  • Heading Upwind:  After completing the turn, the boat sails on the opposite tack, closer to the wind. The sails are trimmed in, and the boat continues to generate lift, moving forward in a different direction.
  • Repeating the Process:  The boat continues this pattern of tacking, gradually making progress upwind.

Balancing Forces: The Role of the Keel and Centerboard

Maintaining stability is crucial when sailing upwind, as the boat is often tilted on its side due to the angle of the sails and the forces from the wind. The keel or centerboard plays a crucial role in counteracting these forces and preventing the boat from capsizing.

The keel is a weighted fin-like structure that extends beneath the boat’s hull. It generates lift in the water, counteracting the lateral force generated by the wind on the sails. The boat’s design ensures that the keel’s lift is greater than the lateral force, allowing the boat to maintain its course upwind.

Similarly, boats equipped with a centerboard use it to achieve the same effect. The sailor can adjust the depth of the centerboard to optimize stability and performance.

How Does a Boat Sail Against the Wind

>>Also Read: Can Sailboats Tip Over?

Sailing Upwind: A Skill to Master

Sailing upwind requires a deep understanding of aerodynamics, physics, and navigation. It is a delicate balance between capturing the wind’s energy while maneuvering within the constraints of the no-go zone. The art of tacking and adjusting sail angles to create the best apparent wind angle is a skill that experienced sailors master over time.

Sailing upwind is not just about getting from point A to point B; it’s about testing one’s ability to harness the forces of nature to achieve a seemingly impossible task. Whether in a leisurely sail or a competitive race, the mechanics behind sailing upwind are a testament to human ingenuity and our ability to work in harmony with the elements.

Peter

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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How Does a Boat Sail Upwind?

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Sailing Upwind

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Sailing Upwind and Tacking

Jay Phillips

It is very easy on a sailboat, windsurfer, or even a kiteboard to be taken downwind so far that you have a miserable experience trying to get back to where you started. Once you learn how to sail upwind correctly and efficiently, sailing becomes much more enjoyable, if for no other reason, you can feel confident in your ability to get home and/or back to your starting point.

The science of sailing upwind is actually amazing. People unfamiliar with sailing always seem amazed when the learn that sailboats can actually sail into the wind. This is partially true, but only to a certain degree, and this is called sailing close hauled with your sail or sails trimmed in most all the way. The process of making your way upwind by tacking back and forth is know as beating upwind.

sailing yacht upwind

In the image above, a sailboat is shown sailing in a zig zag pattern about 45 degrees off the wind direction and making its way upwind. Notice the sails are sheeted in tightly and the boom is almost over the centerline of the boat hull. When the boat turns from a Port Tack to a Starboard Tack, this maneuver is called TACKING. Learning to tack upwind efficiently, so you dont loose ground and go backward or just too slow upwind, you need to learn specific techniques of where to sit correctly; how to sheet your sails during and through the tack, how to move correctly from one side of the boat to the other and how to steer smoothly through the tack so you do not over/under steer and slow yourself down unecessarily. We will practice this very often because practice is the only way to learn and get use to the correct techniques to operate the boat safely and confidently… and maybe be able to win some sailboat races someday soon!

sailing yacht upwind

This image shows the same thing as the other one, but with the complication of a narrow channel added to the situation, which is exactly the same as our situation sailing in and out of the canal in Avon! Look familiar?

sailing yacht upwind

The amazing science of sailing upwind is the same for airplanes, gliders, kites, foils, or any type of water vessel/boat or airplane. When sailing UPWIND the sail is actually being SUCKED into the direction of the wind… not pushed! You can illustrate this in your kitchen by dangling a big tablespoon from your fingertips and running water down it and you’ll see the spoon lifting sideways from the water flowing over it. But this is why it is so important to understand your sail shape and how to adjust it for the wind conditions and speed. If your mainsheet is too loose, for example, your sail will flutter or luff in the wind and have no shape and simply not work right. If you over tighten your mainsheet, you will stall your sail…… which isnt so bad on a sailboat, but if you did the same mistake on an airplane, you would fall out of the sky.

sailing yacht upwind

For the Scientific Minded, you should be incredibly challenged to make the sail work perfectly. For those less technical, remember one thing! While steering your boat upwind with your sheets close hauled, you can “Head Up” until your sails just start to begin luffing, to test that your steering as “Close” to the wind as possible and not in the NO GO ZONE, and then bear off slightly…. SLIGHTLY… until your sails just stop luffing, then you know you are on a good course. Then keep that course, but be mindful that the wind does shift constantly, normally in small degrees, but that you may need to be really vigilant and keep testing that you are on your best upwind heading so you get to the upwind mark or finish line before the others do!

sailing yacht upwind

Please study these pictures and try your best to understand them. When you come back to Sailing Class next week, we will sit down and try to clarify anything you may not understand. The better you understand this upwind sailing challenge, the faster it will start to become easy for you to sail fast UPWIND on your boat!

Here are some additional videos on sailing your Opti Upwind

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_FppGg23X4
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8YCByrWYrk
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEf_VZtyc-k
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9qCSBQa9Zw

This one is really really good on form, where to sit, how to trim, how to hold the lines. https://youtu.be/LHhXD5jKL3w

…if you are over 70lbs it is very important where you sit

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Home » Basics of sailing upwind well – Free Online Sailing Lesson

Basics of sailing upwind well – Free Online Sailing Lesson

Many beginner sailors find sailing upwind more intimidating that it needs to be – this explanation will give you an understanding that you can practice next time you go sailing – a basic online sailing lesson for beginners and some ideas that will also help intermediate sailors. Big thanks to Parz Kazuri (Patrick Ruiz) for inspiring this section. This is a section of our free online sailing lessons.

All Free Online Sailing Lessons – Index

  • Sailing Upwind with less effort
  • Increase confidence in Stronger Winds
  • Downwind with less distress
  • Gusts, Gybes and tacks easily
  • Not hitting other boats and more
We are interested in a practical approach with the absolute minimum of sailing jargon. There are only five words of terminology in the whole article and you will know most of them already. Compare that to your “favourite learn to sail” book where there are dozens each page.

There is only one correct position for the sail regardless of the direction you are sailing.

The sail is always put at the correct angle for the wind direction. As we have seen above … there is only one right direction and the sail and boat will tell you when that happens.

When the sail is oriented correctly the boat will get a “KICK” like a turbo feeling and you will feel the boat is sailing faster. Be a bit off and the boat will sail badly. We want this KICK all the time.

If the boat feels sluggish rather than lively on the water the best thing to do is EASE the sail. But here are more details.

From left to right

  • Flapping is obvious
  • Sail is angled to the wind slowly and the sail fill from the back. The front it still blowing in the other direction. This is called Luffing.
  • Sail is pulled in a little tighter – when the luffing just disappears the sail will provide a noticeable “KICK” as power and then speed increases on a light responsive boat like the Oz Goose .
  • Sail is too tight and insidiously it feels like more power for a moment, but then the boat goes slower and slower. Many beginner and intermediate sailors will sail around like this for a long time, not realising that they are going very slow. It is called oversheeting

The importance of feeling boat speed – if slow then the sails need to be adjusted.

If the sail is not luffing but the boat feels very slow then the sail is usually pulled in too tight.

How to check?

The test of the right angle of the sail for power is finding the luffing again by easing the sail out and pulling it in again until the luffing just disappears. Beginners should practice this continuously around every 10 seconds – a tiny ease of the sail, see if it luffs. Rule 1 – wind direction is always changing.

  • If the sail luffs, pull it in again until the luffing just disappears. (left pic)
  • If the sail doesn’t luff, continue easing it out until the luffing appears, then pull in the sail slightly to remove the luffing. (right pic)

Some will say to check this with steering the boat – this is wrong advice for dinghies. It is best to use the sheet to ease the sail as it is an instant test. Steering the boat takes time and if you were wrong then you have to steer back – you lose speed for longer.

Easing the sail actually increases speed if you were at the wrong angle.

How does this advice look for sailing in different directions?

Yes … the sail stays at the same direction to the wind for most steering directions. It is the boat that changes direction. But when the hull changes direction the sail has to be adjusted to retain the correct angle.

The sail on the left without the boat shows the correct angle with the luffing just gone – the sail has the power KICK.

The sail angle does not change relative to the wind, but the boat hull angle to the sail changes radically!

The middle three drawings above show the boat going in different directions with this perfectly trimmed sail. Eased until the sail luffs, then pulled in slightly.

We put a figure 8 knot (diagram and video here) in the mainsheet to prevent the boom going beyond 90 degrees – right side of the drawing above – maybe around 80 degrees is safer for absolute beginners.

When the sail sheet hits the knot and stops – if there is no luffing then the sail is at the best possible angle. At least until we start talking about advanced sailing.

Practical 1 – Continuous sail trim

These practicals assume the wind is moderate – definitely no white caps and not so light that the water has no ripples and waves.

Practice 1 – sail parallel to the waves for 200 to 400 metres adjust the sail every 5 or 10 seconds easing it to find the luffing and when you find the luffing, pull it in to get rid of the luffing. Turn around and do the same back to in front of your starting point.

This is important because the wind is always changing direction and the boat changes direction too. So the correct angle of the sail has to be found around every 10 seconds.

Don’t worry! Over time it becomes automatic – but a big thrill to know that you have control of the power.

Practical 2 – feel the power disappear when sail is too loose or too tight – FEEL THE KICK when right

Practice 2 – Same exercise as above, but … This time ease the sail until around 20% of the sail is luffing. Now trim it correctly. FEEL THE KICK. Now you have found the kick, pull in the sail two arm pulls and wait to see what happens. Speed will drop slowly. Now trim it correctly. FEEL THE KICK and the boat will accelerate again.

How does the sail angle look on the boat for sailing upwind?

For the Oz Goose and boat with one sail like the Laser, Optimist, Joel White Nymph, many of the Bolger homebuilt boats, many of the designs by Iain Oughtred, John Welsford, Jim Michalak this method works just fine.

So lets look at the simple case of one sail.

The ideal theoretical sheeting angle for a single sail or any front sail of a sailboat is around 10 degrees from the centreline of the boat. Middle boat in the drawing below shows the accurate angle. See the boom is over the corner of the transom. This is a useful visual guide when sailing.

I have drawn these as accurately as possible. As you see the sail angle to the wind is the same for maximum power, but boat angle to the wind is changed.

This is acceleration mode.

Boom is out beyond the corner of the transom. But not too far.

Boom position for the “Pointing/Normal mode”.

If speed starts dropping then go back to acceleration mode.

Boom position for Oz Goose in Very light wind looks like this.

Or any time it is difficult to get speed upwind.

You can see the boats are barely moving

Practice 3 – Look through these photos and look at the boom angles of the boats. Work out if they are in acceleration mode, normal/pointing mode or light wind mode
Practice 4 – on the beach turn the boat so the wind is coming from the side. Put the boom at the angle for acceleration mode. Put the boom at the angle for normal upwind sailing (Pointing mode) – that is the 10 degree angle Put the boom at the angle for light wind

One of the great tricks for racing is to look at which boats are going fast and then copy their boom position.

Sailing upwind as a process – in medium wind strength

Left image – Start to trim the sail to get rid of luffing. Change the boat direction until the boat is sailing happily in acceleration mode.

Now turn the boat upwind – middle image – the mainsail will luff a little.

Pull sail in to get rid of luffing. Boom position is now closer to the upwind/normal mode.

If the boom is not in that position yet then point a little higher to make the sail luff a tiny amount and pull in the boom to get rid of the luffing again

Problem 1 – If Sail starts luffing – you steer to just get rid of luffing

Diagram – heading upwind and sail starts luffing a little

Sometimes the sail will start luffing when in upwind mode. This means the wind has changed direction or you are still getting used to steering.

Steer down gently until the luffing just disappears. When it disappears look at the mast, line it up with something in the background and make sure the boat is NOT continuing to turn.

Losing Speed – Losing the KICK power zone from the sail – avoiding oversheeting

Having the sail too tight is the worst situation as we have seen at the beginning above. How do we avoid it?

The best way is for beginners and most of us still learning to find the KICK power zone is to do this about every 10 seconds. As you practice more you will know the feeling of the KICK zone so won’t need to do this so often

Diagram – avoiding oversheeting upwind. Some think this is an example of two boats racing. It is showing two choices for one boat.

Finding the BEST speed sailing upwind

If speed feels low it is always safe to ease the sail and get speed back in acceleration mode before trying pointing/normal mode again. If speed always disappears every time you try pointing/normal mode then try sailing with the boom a bit further out in pointing/normal mode. In lighter wind or rough water this may be necessary at times.

Pointing higher shortens the distance you have to travel to windward. If you sail upwind in acceleration mode the boat has more distance to cover.

In pointing mode the boat reaches the top mark well before the one sailing in acceleration mode.

Speed is important too. Sailing out of the KICK zone of the sail is bad too. Never be afraid to ease the sail to luff a little to find the KICK power zone.

Rather than the aim being in Pointing/Normal mode all the time, our aim is to keep the boat moving fast and be as close as we can to Pointing/Normal mode as much as possible.

So it is best to try and pull the boom in when you can to point higher.

But if speed starts dropping the boom can go out a little until you find the best balance of speed and pointing.

Summary How to Sail Upwind Tutorial

Know how the different boom angles look on your boat. Upwind/Normal, Acceleration mode and Light Wind Mode.

If in doubt about boat speed, ease the sail and see if it luffs.

If the sail luffs pull it in again until the luffing just stops – the sail trim was correct.

If the sail does not luff, ease the sail more until it does luff. Pull it in a little so the luffing disappears – you are now in acceleration mode. Then go through the routine to move from acceleration mode to Pointing/Normal Mode.

If boat feels sluggish with boom in Normal pointing mode even with the power KICK then try moving the boom outward a few inches (50mm) and steer to get rid of the luffing.

It is wrong to sail upwind in only one mode. Being able to chance to acceleration mode to get speed and then to pointing mode to sail high is the best way

Good luck with your practice!

Links to Two Sections on Upwind Sailing in Stronger winds.

New Upwind Sailing methods – more performance, less effort Part 1
Part 2 – New Upwind Sailing methods – more performance, less effort

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Sailing Fast Upwind: Time-tested Phrases from Influential Sailors

sailing yacht upwind

Are you a newer racing sailor? If so, sailing fast upwind may be one of the toughest things to learn. This post captures a virtual clinic with several newer sailors at the Lake Beulah Yacht Club.

We focused the clinic around live video of one newer sailor. After watching the sailor’s upwind technique, we offered suggestions. We organized the discussion around eight key concepts for sailing fast upwind. These concepts were passed down from influential sailors that helped your editor become a faster sailor.

These concepts are not always easy to understand or put in practice. The text below summarizes them in outline form, but the video illuminates them more clearly through the discussion and questions.

Watch the video here or read the summary below.

Sailing Fast Upwind – Eight Time-Tested Phrases

Put pressure on the boat.

sailing fast upwind - put pressure on the boat

  • Most of the sail’s force is heeling force.
  • Forward force is limited by how much heeling force you can balance (pressure on the boat).
  • Use controls, not luffing, to depower. Make sure you’re not steering higher to take pressure off.
  • You may have to luff the sails when your controls are on fully and you can’t hold the boat down.
  • Legs extended
  • Shoulders outside butt
  • Butt outside rail
  • Get a crew in heavy air

Trim to the leech, steer to the luff

sailing fast upwind with leech and luff telltales

  • You need to put curvature in the sail for power. Trimming the mainsheet tightens the leech and adds curvature.
  • Luff behavior indicates angle of attack – so steer to maintain the correct angle
  • Top batten parallel to boom
  • Leech tales active
  • Leech not “frozen”
  • Luff is firm, no backwinding; mast is loaded
  • Leeward luff tales streaming
  • Windward luff tales streaming or periodically lifting
  • Sidestay tales pointing toward aft end of sail
  • Adjust constantly

Feather and ease, hike, and trim (in a puff)

  • Keep boat on its lines (ease)
  • Quickly match angle of attack to the change in apparent wind to accelerate (ease)
  • Gain ground to windward (feather slightly)
  • Re-power when puff is spent (trim)
  • Ease main as rapidly as needed and hike to maintain angle of heel
  • Feather: steer up slightly (3-5 degrees)
  • Trim back rapidly as soon as you can re-power
  • Feel the acceleration!
  • Feather down/trim in, weight in, and then ease

Work the controls

sailing fast upwind - use the controls

  • The sail is a like continuously variable transmission
  • Controls are designed to be loaded hard
  • Trim main harder
  • Approach block to block in heavy air
  • Fully slack to as hard as you can pull
  • Ease when wind lightens or before bearing off!
  • Tighten cunningham as you add vang
  • Use after a healthy dose of vang and cunningham
  • May need to go all the way down
  • Trim main even harder (see “flat is fast”)
  • Reverse order as breeze lightens

Angle of heel is everything

sailing yacht upwind

  • Makes boards effective
  • Reduces wetted surface
  • Reduces helm
  • Makes boat “longer.” (Longer boats are faster.)
  • Just as important downwind as upwind
  • Keep water below the rail (in a scow)
  • Sit/stand in center of boat
  • Sit to leeward
  • Sit under boom
  • Hike to leeward

Flat (sail) is fast

sailing yacht upwind

  • Less drag, better pointing
  • In very light air, airflow can stay attached
  • Once up to speed, tighten mainsheet to bend mast and flatten sail
  • Ease main when you need to re-accelerate
  • Resist temptation to let sail luff
  • Drop traveler and sheet even harder
  • A flatter sail may be faster than a full sail

Dirty air makes you crazy

sailing yacht upwind

  • It’s everywhere, but invisible
  • Can’t achieve speed, even with good technique
  • Makes you second-guess yourself
  • Don’t hang back on the starting line
  • Find a lane after a bad start
  • Don’t tack into a bad lane
  • Defend your air downwind

Get comfortable in the boat

  • Minimize distractions to reduce mental overload
  • Reduce physical overload
  • Does everything in the boat work properly?
  • Proper grip
  • Thickness and texture
  • 5:1 purchase
  • Grippy gloves
  • Tangle prevention or interference
  • Tiller grip and control
  • Footwork routines
  • Pads, core strength, position, straps
  • Don’t over-hike
  • Items rolling around
  • Tangled telltales
  • Water in boat

Sailing Fast Upwind – A Journey

Try to master these concepts. Practice with other boats and go to regattas to accelerate your progress.

As you progress, you’ll find nuances and exceptions. When you’re ready to go deeper, here are some related SailZing.com posts:

Puff Response: Variations on Ease, Hike, Trim Heavy Air Boat Speed: Sheet Harder and Drop Traveler Don’t Be Lazy with Mainsheet Tension Hike Harder and Smarter MC-Scow Sailing Speed Guide Plus Drills

The Three Dimensions of a Lake Breeze

Light air on lakes: more wind near the shore, you may also like, three reasons to get fit for sailing, prevent breakdowns – top tips, updated, three fitness measures of winning sailors, bill draheim on shroud telltales, sportvid – laser sailing upwind, upwind sailing tips by sarah ayton &..., sail trim board, upwind boat speed – sailzing aha insights, winning in a big breeze, mc-scow sailing speed guide plus drills, leave a comment cancel reply.

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UPWIND SAILING TACTICS: THE 3 GOLDEN RULES

Tactics can seem really, really complicated. Sometimes on a busy race course, in all the noise of battle, it’s hard to see the wood for the trees. Then again, tactics is really, really simple. It’s binary. At any moment during the race you only have two choices:

1. keep going

2. change direction (tack or gybe).

Want to learn about the basics of Sailing into the wind ? Read that article first!

In another blog we talked about   Strategy . That’s about doing your pre-race homework, analysing the conditions and working out which is the fastest way up the course. But strategy is nothing without tactics, because how often do you get to execute your perfect strategy without other boats getting in the way?

Tactics is about how you execute your strategy on a busy race course, how you outsmart and outmanoeuvre the opposition. When you’re ahead, it’s about the defensive moves you need to make to keep your spot. When you’re behind, it’s working out how to overtake the boats in front of you. Let’s take a look at the fundamentals of good tactics. And we’re going to focus on Upwind Tactics in this blog post.

THE 3 GOLDEN RULES OF UPWIND TACTICS

Here are three questions to ask yourself at any point when you’re trying to work out if you’re on the right track (and the right tack!). 1. Am I on the long tack to the mark? 2. Am I on the lifted tack? 3. Am I   sailing   in the same direction as the majority of the fleet?

Let’s look at those in more detail. We’ll consider these factors in relation to upwind tactics. The same principles more or less apply on the downwind legs too, but because we spend more of the time racing upwind, let’s make that the priority for now.

1. THE LONG TACK TO THE MARK

If the race course is skewed, and there’s more sailing to be done on one tack than the other, then start sailing on the long tack first. This will take you back towards the centreline of the course as defined by the   wind   direction. The closer to the centreline, the more tactical options you have available. Do the opposite, and sail the short tack first, and you have boxed yourself into a corner. You’ve used up your tactical options early and now you’re at the mercy of any changes in the wind, and most likely the bad air from other boats.

2. THE LIFTED TACK

You should have a sense of how the wind is shifting and you should be able to feel the boat lifting and heading through the wind shifts. Even better if you’re tracking the numbers on a compass. Sailing the lifted tack means you’re sailing a shorter distance towards the next mark.

3. GOING WITH THE FLEET

If most of the fleet is going in a certain direction, you should be going with them. Or at least, you need a good reason to be doing the opposite.

REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD BREAK THE 3 GOLDEN RULES

If you’re leading the fleet or in the front pack and aiming to protect your position, there’s little reason to break the three Golden Rules. However, let’s consider some reasons why you might want to break them… 1. Better wind on one side: There’s a clear bias towards one side of the course. This could be a land factor which means there’s a wind bend and/or a stronger breeze on one side of the course. In which case you’ll want to get further into that side sooner than your opposition. 2. Tidal Difference: Similar to a wind factor, there might be a tidal or current difference across the course. If the current is stronger and pushing you upwind, you’ll want to get over to that side of the course as your tactical and strategic priority. The same, or even more so, if the current is against you. Escaping the worst of the current is now your biggest priority. 3. Sailing on a header: If you’re looking to take advantage of a better wind or current situation, then be prepared to sail on a header to get over to one side. If there is a permanent wind bend, sail on a header so that when you tack on to the lifting tack, you’re sailing on the ‘inside lane’ of the race track. 4. Sailing away from the fleet: If you feel the fleet is missing a big factor, like one of the ones listed above, then stick to your guns and sail in the opposite direction. 5. Getting out of dirty air: If you’re in dirty air and need to tack away from the bulk of the fleet in front of you, that’s a good reason to break the Golden Rules. But only sail as far as you need to before you’re back in clear air. Now ask yourself those three Golden Rules again. It’s too easy to stay on the same tack and gamble your position on going for the opposite corner from the fleet, just because it’s different. If you’re going to be different, be different for a good reason. 6. The final lap gamble: If you’re struggling near the back of the fleet and running out of time for playing a game of patience, now is the time to consider a gamble. If you’re so far back that you’ve got nothing to lose, then break the Golden Rules. Bang the opposite corner of the race course and see if you win a lucky lottery ticket!

BE PATIENT, AND NEVER GIVE UP

That last point, the ‘final lap gamble’, comes with a health warning. There’s a temptation, as you’re getting towards the end of the race, to start taking more risks. Coming back from a bad start is usually the accumulation of lots of small gains around the race course. If there’s one quality that marks out the people who win championship after championship, it’s the ability to come back from a bad start and convert it into a good result by the finish. As you go around the race course, wherever you are in the fleet, keep on checking in on the three Golden Rules of Tactics.

Look out for a lot more ‘go faster’ content coming your way from Sailmon. We’re keen to share more content on various topics that all add up to helping you sail better. Follow us on   Facebook ,   Instagram   or subscribe to our   newsletter . Whatever you do, don’t miss out on this valuable content! We’re here to make you even better than you are today!

---- Check out this webinar! ‘It’s all about upwind performance’ emphasizes the importance of boat speed, VMG, strategy and tactics during that crucial first leg. Olympic Gold Medallist and skipper and helmsman for the Japan SailGP Team Nathan Outteridge  will share all his knowledge from his professional sailing career. Learn from the best, improve your sailing skills in the moments right after the gunshot and get ahead of the competition.  Check out the preview below or subscribe  here for the full recordings

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UPWIND SAILS GUIDE

Options fit for any sailor.

sailing yacht upwind

All sails can be described using four basic criteria – Size, Shape, Style and Specifications

  • Size quantifies the two dimensional aspects of the sail: luff, leech and foot lengths, and the sail’s roach profile.
  • Shape describes the three dimensional aerodynamic form built into these perimeter dimensions, which is commonly referred to as the Mold Shape.
  • Style refers to the material used to build a sail.
  • Specifications indicate the specific construction features such as hardware, reefs, luff attachments, fittings, and other sail handling systems.

North designers use complex numerical tools in concert with extensive empirical data to create unrivaled sails. The starting point is a well-suited mold shape selected from a design library with a fifty year lineage. The mold shape is then adapted to a particular target use, based on multiple inputs determined by our sail experts in consultation with our customers. Factors such as boat type, righting moment, rig geometry, sail size, material type, aspect ratio, wind speed, wind angle, sea state, mast bend and headstay sag are just some of the critical elements to successful sail design.

Navigating all of these variables can be challenging for even the best and most experienced sailors. Compounding the issue are the different languages of sailing used around the world. This guide is intended to help us speak a common language when describing sails.

Mainsail and Mizzen Mainsail Types

Standard Mainsail This is our default mainsail type for both racing and cruising. Standard Mainsails may include up to 2 full-length battens and use conventional roach profiles that are customized to the boat’s geometry and customer requirement. Available in all material types, popular configurations are 1 full-length top batten for racing, and a “2 Plus 3” (2 full, 3 leech) batten configuration for cruising.

Full Batten Mainsail Cruising Mainsail with more than 2 full-length battens. Available in all material types, usually paired with a luff car system and mechanical fasteners to batten receptacle.

High Roach Mainsail Traditional cruising catamaran roach profile with full-length battens. Sometimes called a “Butter Knife” or algorithmic curve. The key feature of our High Roach Mainsail is that the batten can be designed parallel to the boom for easy flaking or boom furling. Available in all material types, but best suited for NPC Radian, NPL Tour, 3DL Marathon and 3Di Endurance styles to support the wide head angle.

Square Top Mainsail Our most modern mainsail profile, with a head width supported by a gaff batten. Available in all material types, but best suited for NPL Sport, 3DL and 3Di.

Boom Furling Mainsail Mainsails specifically designed for use on furling boom systems. Typically designed around a boom manufacturer’s specifications, these include special features like hard braid luff rope, leech plies and extra battens. Available in all material types, but best suited for NPC Coastal, NPC Radian, NPL Tour and 3Di Endurance.

Mast Furling Mainsail Mainsails to be used with in-mast or external mast furling systems. Can be configured in a wide array of batten and roach profiles depending upon furling system and performance requirements. Available in all material types; best suited for NPC Coastal, NPC Radian, NPL Tour and 3Di Endurance.

Racing Headsail Types Sails listed as headsails can be made either as Genoas or Jibs. Sails listed as Genoas are only made as overlapping headsails, while Jibs are only made as non-overlapping headsails.

Light Headsail Maximum size specialty headsail for very low boat speed and boats that have other, full-sized headsails. Typically used when the boat is tacking through wide angles, with an emphasis on getting the boat moving. This mold has a full shape, with enough curvature in the leech to remain smooth when not sheeted in hard. Light Headsails will not perform well when trimmed in tight. The luff curve is designed for very straight headstay.

Super Light Headsail Similar to Light Headsail but often made in the lightest cloth possible, with a very low maximum apparent wind speed rating.

Light/Medium Headsail Maximum size headsail shaped for power more than pointing. Used when maximum upwind hull speed cannot be achieved or it is a struggle to maintain it.

Medium Headsail Maximum size headsail used when the boat is powered up, but has still has not achieved maximum upwind hull speed. The Medium Headsail has a flatter shape that can be trimmed harder than a Light Headsail. The luff curve is designed for low headstay sag

Medium/Heavy Headsail Maximum-sized headsail with an all-purpose mold shape. Geared slightly toward pointing more than power.

Heavy Headsail Maximum, or near maximum size headsail used when the boat has reached maximum upwind hull speed. This shape is best when the boat will not go much faster, but can go higher by sheeting hard. This mold has a very straight leech and needs to be sheeted hard to remain smooth. The luff curve is designed for moderate headstay sag.

#2 Genoa Reduced size genoa designed to fill the gap between the Heavy Genoa and #3 Jib. This mold has a very flat shape and a very straight leech to allow for a wide sheeting angle. The LP, mid-girth and luff length are designed around the rig geometry. This sail may not sheet well around some spreader arrangements and is not suitable for all boats. The luff curve is designed to match moderate headstay sag.

#3 Jib A non-overlapping headsail for heavy air use on boats that also carry genoas. This sail sheets inboard of the shrouds and in front of the mast, which allows the mainsail to be eased or traveled down without backwinding. This sail is typically sized with a maximum foot length and mid-girth to fit in front of the rig. It has a round entry and very straight back to power through waves while maintaining pointing.

# 4 Jib Reduced size Jib for use when the mainsail is reefed or nearly reefed. This sail is short of maximum luff length and has a reduced foot length to allow effective steering in large waves and reduce mainsail backwind.

Heavy Weather Jib Similar to #4 Jib but sized to Offshore Special Regulations (OSR) guideline.

Furling Genoa All Purpose Roller Furling headsail with an LP greater than 110%. Designed for a wide range of wind speeds and angles. The material must be low stretch to hold shape in heavy air, and strong enough to handle furling and rig impact. Designed with a shape similar to Light/Medium Racing Genoa, it is optimized for eased out, upwind trim in the middle of the target wind range.

Furling Jib All Purpose Roller Furling headsail with LP less than 110%.Typically designed for modern cruising boats that utilize non-overlapping headsails. Can also be designed as a heavy weather specific sail for cruising boats that also carry overlapping genoas.

Self-Tacking Jib All Purpose Roller Furling headsail with LP less than 110%. Designed for modern cruising boats that utilize non-overlapping headsails with a lateral, self-tacking sheeting track. Commonly fitted with a clewboard for sheeting adjustment, and optional vertical battens.

Yankee All Purpose, high clewed headsail for cruising. May be set on roller furler or fixed stay. The high clew enhances reaching performance and improves visibility. Commonly used on cutter rigs or boats with an inner Jib.

Inner Jib / Inner Fore Staysail / Staysail Small Jib set on an inner forestay. May be set on roller furler or fixed stay. Typically designed as a heavy weather jib, but also used a Genoa Staysail for cutter and double head rigs.

Storm Sails

Storm Trysail Designed to attach to mast and sheet independently from the boom. Typically set on a dedicated luff track, its size is based on Offshore Special Regulations (OSR) guidelines.

Storm Jib Designed to attach to headstay or inner stay with luff tape or hanks. Size is based on Offshore Special Regulations (OSR) guidelines.

FEATURED STORIES

Npl renew faq, flying sails 101.

21 December

CAPE 31 TUNING GUIDE

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Yachting Monthly

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Yachting Monthly cover

Apparent wind: How to predict it and use it to your advantage

  • Katy Stickland
  • July 1, 2022

Predicting changes in apparent wind will make you a safer, faster sailor, says Martin Watts

A yacht sailing into apparent wind

Knowing what to do when the apparent wind changes could be the difference between accelerating smoothly and broaching badly. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Newcomers to sailing soon learn to appreciate the differences in apparent wind on different points of sailing, writes Martin Watts.

We’ve all slogged to windward in a Force 5, clad head to toe in waterproofs as spray flies over the deck, only to see a boat sailing in the opposite direction, downwind , with the crew lounging around in shorts and T-shirts enjoying what looks more like a Force 3.

However, the apparent wind can also change whilst sailing on a leg of a route, and understanding these changes and how to respond to them can improve not only speed, but also the efficiency of how a yacht is handled, comfort on passage as well as safety by avoiding losing control in broaches and other incidents.

Changes in true wind direction are obvious, but there are other reasons for apparent wind changes.

A diagram explaining the effects of apparent wind on a sailing boat

As wind increases in gusts, the apparent wind angle will move aft. Credit: Maxine Heath

I’ll start by looking at what causes these changes and then how we respond to them.

If the true wind speed suddenly increases in a gust, then not only is there an increase in apparent wind speed, but the apparent wind angle (AWA) changes in direction, moving further aft with respect to the yacht.

Conversely, if there is a decrease in the true wind speed, then the apparent wind speed decreases, but it now moves further forward in relation to your boat.

There are also changes in the apparent wind due to variations in the speed of the yacht.

If the yacht’s speed drops, then the apparent wind decreases and moves further aft.

A diagram explaining the effect of apparent wind on boat speed

If the boat slows down, the apparent wind will also move aft, while an increase in boat speed will bring it forward. Credit: Maxine Heath

If the yacht speed increases, then the apparent wind speed increases and the apparent wind angle decreases, moving further forward.

This effect can clearly be seen on the foiling catamarans who have their sails sheeted in all the time.

In practice, any change in apparent wind speed and angle are usually a combination of both of these mechanisms.

The common sight is a strong gust hitting a yacht.

Continues below…

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The extra power and the fact that apparent wind is now more beam-on to the yacht means the sails are over-sheeted and there are large lateral forces that make the yacht heel, which result in a less efficient hull shape requiring more rudder to be used to keep the yacht going straight.

This all slows the boat down, and so the apparent wind shifts even more beam-on. The rudder eventually loses grip, and we end up with a broach.

So how should you respond to these changes in the apparent wind speed and direction?

The actual response will vary on the yacht, the crew and the conditions, and on whether you lean more towards the ‘racer’ or ‘cruiser’ ends of the spectrum.

Apparent wind: dealing with gusts

Gusts are formed in a variety of ways, but in open water, a gust is likely to have been formed by a downdraught around a cumulus cloud after a cold front.

If this is the case, the wind direction of the gust may be the same as the higher-level wind direction.

In the northern hemisphere, this will typically be veered compared to the sea-level wind.

'Cats paws' on the water show how gusts fan out as they hit the surface. Credit: Martin Watts

‘Cats paws’ on the water show how gusts fan out as they hit the surface. Credit: Martin Watts

The result is that if you are sailing on starboard tack, you may get a lift to windward, while on port tack you would be headed.

It’s slightly more complex than this, however, as downdraught gusts fan out as they hit the water and so it helps to identify where the yacht is in relation to the gust fan so that the change in wind direction can be predicted.

If you are sailing towards the centre of the gust, on either tack, you are likely to be headed, while sailing away from the centre, you are likely to get a lift.

If you are hit by a gust when sailing upwind, the increase in true wind speed will move the apparent wind aft, giving you a lift in which you can luff up slightly, or if you are on course and don’t need to make more progress to windward, you can ease the sails to gain more boat speed and avoid excess heel, or do a combination of both.

If you are less concerned about performance, it is easier to just luff up slightly, which makes use of the lift, and also spills some power from the sails.

When a gust hits, its leading edge will often bring the strongest wind, so in blustery conditions, it pays to be looking upwind spotting approaching gusts, even if you’re just cruising.

A yacht will full sails cruising along the ocean

Upwind, it pays to be prepared and not caught off guard by a gust. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

This gives you a chance to luff up significantly before the gust hits, so that the sails are lifting slightly and the yacht is not overpowered as the gust hits.

You can then slowly bear away again, keeping the boat under control and maintaining good boat speed.

As boat speed increases again and the apparent wind moves forward, both groups may end up sailing at a slightly lower heading than before.

In contrast, if you aren’t ready for the gust, you will heel and increase rudder angle, slowing the boat down, and if you then luff up, you will do so into the lighter wind behind the gust, further losing speed.

When sailing on a reach, easing the sails and bearing off slightly, so that the direction of effort is more in line with your heading, will give the biggest increase in speed.

Racers steer to keep the boat ‘under the sails’, reducing heel to keep the rudder gripping particularly when fully powered up.

They may even bear off more to stay in the gust, particularly in light winds, knowing that they will be coming back up to the original course line with a better apparent wind direction.

a man in red jacket and trousers sailing a boat

When reaching steer to keep the boat under the sails, bearing away in gusts. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

For a cruising sailor, the response to a gust when reaching can be rather different to this and is more similar to how they responded when sailing upwind.

Luff up slightly, or a lot before the gust hits if the gust is large to spill power from the sails, and then bear away as the gust eases.

Then as boat speed increases and apparent wind comes forward again, racers will sheet in, while cruisers may be content to bear away slightly to keep the sails full.

Things change again when running deep downwind.

With the wind astern and the sails sheeted right out, they are being pushed along, but there is no aerodynamic flow along the sails and they are not generating any lift.

The force on the sails is in the same direction as the boat’s heading, so there is no heel.

Rounding up towards the wind, far from depowering the sails, will do several things at once: it allows an airflow to develop and with it a significant increase in power; the apparent wind will increase as you are no longer running before the wind; and a large heeling moment, which could easily lead to a broach.

A white boat with blue and white sails

On a run, don’t be tempted to luff up to depower the sails; it will have the opposite effect. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

This is all exacerbated by the fact that there is a temptation to set more sail when downwind when things feel calm, only to find that you are hugely over canvassed as soon as you turn towards the wind.

So generally, the response is to stay heading in the same direction, with a key aim now being to stop the yacht burying its nose in the back of wave.

If you need to reduce power, sheeting in is a more responsive technique, or alternatively you could try reefing down to match your sailplan to the gusts.

Slowing down

When the true wind speed drops, when going upwind, the apparent wind moves forward and so the initial impression is that you have been headed.

The automatic reaction is to bear off, but you must do this gradually so that the yacht does not lose momentum as a result of large rudder movements and disrupting the airflow over the sails.

When the true wind speed drops on a reach, the apparent wind also comes forward, so you’ll need to sheet in or bear away to keep the sails pulling.

Two sailors in a yacht sailing with apparent wind

Wake from other boats will cause you to slow down and the apparent wind to move aft. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

One of the common reasons boat speed suddenly drops is because of wake from powered vessels.

The first response is to try and minimise the effect of the wave by steering accordingly.

As the yacht’s speed drops and apparent wind moves aft, ease the sails or luff up so that the apparent wind angle is the same as before the wake hits, so that the sails remain set correctly.

A tug boat sailing

Heavy displacement craft like tug boats create particularly short and sharp ‘boat stopper’ wakes. Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Then as the yacht’s speed increases, bear away back on to the original course.

In light winds, it may pay to keep sailing a bit higher, with more apparent windflow over the sails, to build up boatspeed more quickly before bearing away.

Waves and tide

The effect of yacht speed on the apparent wind direction is clear when sailing upwind with the waves or swell coming downwind.

As the yacht climbs the front of the wave, it slows and so the apparent wind moves aft, so the helm can luff up slightly to keep the sail trim right and this can help the boat punch through the top of the wave.

As the yacht goes down the other side of the wave, it accelerates and so the apparent wind moves forward and so the helm must bear away to keep the sails drawing properly.

Apparent wind can also be dramatically affected by changes in the tidal stream. Sailing with the tide will increase speed over the ground and with it, apparent wind.

A yacht sailing through waves flying a Swedish flag

As wave size increase, actively helming over each wave will keep the boat moving much better. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

In terms of direction, the wind angle will move forwards, so sheeting in or bearing away will be necessary.

The more marked impact is that sailing upwind with the tide, the wind speed can increase dramatically, while on a run the apparent wind may drop a Force or two by comparison.

Things get more interesting when sailing across the stream.

With the tide on your leeward side, you would be favourably pushed towards the wind, ‘lee-bow effect’, while with tide on your windward side both apparent wind speed and progress to windward would be reduced.

Traditionally, the mark of a good helmsperson was that they could sail a course with a steady compass bearing, so that the navigator could make good dead reckoning calculations.

Martin Watts and his wife, Irene, have chartered in the Med and Caribbean. They own a Hanse 341 and sail from Largs, Scotland

Martin Watts and his wife, Irene, have chartered in the Med and Caribbean. They own a Hanse 341 and sail from Largs, Scotland

Now with GPS and chartplotters , the yacht’s position is known, and the helm and crew have a greater flexibility to respond to apparent wind changes to maximise boat speed.

So, the yacht can be pointed on its desired course, the sails set accordingly and then the helm left to look around to predict the wind and wave conditions and steer to what feels right for the yacht and the conditions.

The aim is to be able to predict and react to any apparent wind changes, rather than just respond after the event.

Then, after a period of time, compare the actual and desired position or look at the cross track error (XTE) and alter the course heading and adjust the sails to suit.

Enjoyed reading Apparent wind: How to predict it and use it to your advantage?

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Upwind headsail trimming: Top tips from a pro

Yachting World

  • March 10, 2022

Simon ‘Stir’ Fry is a world-class trimmer with wins in a huge range of classes. He shares headsail trimming and set-up tips with Andy Rice

sailing yacht upwind

The challenge of headsail trimming, according to Stir Fry, is understanding at any given moment what the team is aiming to achieve. On a busy race course, those aims are ever-changing.

Whether you’re going for VMG speed in open water, footing through some bad chop or sheeting in hard to live in a thin lane, the trimmer needs to be in sync with the helmsman and the mainsheet trimmer for the ‘speed loop’ as well as knowing what the tactician and strategist are thinking.

One of the big differences, Fry believes, between a fully pro team and typical amateur race crew is the level and quality of the conversation – and headsail trimming is a key part of this communication loop.

“Let’s say you’ve just started and you’re two minutes into the race. Five boats have popped out while three boats tacked onto port, but it looks like we need to sail on for another two minutes to open up a lane in the middle of the course,” Fry explains.

“The tactician will say: ‘I need to live in this lane for another 45 seconds.’ Then the driver will say: ‘Okay, trimmers, just give me a little bit more sheet tension, and I’ll be happy to sail 1/10th under target speed.’ So it will be then a very, very small change in mainsheet trim and jib trim. The trimmers then respond by sheeting in and asking if that feels okay to the helmsman, and so on. It’s a constant conversation.”

Even if it’s a very specialised role with a lot of the time looking up at the telltales, the best trimmers have a global understanding of the race course at any given moment.

“A beautiful looking jib is not necessarily what you’re looking for at all times,” Fry points out. To understand why, read his five best tips on headsail trimming.

Create a comms loop

A strong team has a strong comms loop and the trimmer plays an important role in listening and also communicating what’s needed at any given moment on the race course. There’s always an element of compromise to what the boat needs, what the mainsheet trim is doing and how the boat is being steered.

A perfect-looking jib is not necessarily what you’re looking for, other than when you’re in perfect conditions. You’ve nearly always got other boats to think about, where tactical situations might dictate a different setup in the sails and how the helmsman is steering. This is why the comms loop is critical.

Balance over beauty

The most important speed goal is for the helmsman to have a balanced rudder. Sometimes you have to contort the sail to give the boat what it needs. In very light airs sometimes you’ve got to go to extremes to make the boat go well. That might be inducing massive headstay sag and making the leech very round in the back. Then in very strong conditions it’s all about the boat being balanced and wanting to go in a straight line with minimal helm movements.

As [multiple world champion] Vince Brun taught us when we were kids: if a gust hits and the boat doesn’t go faster, your trim is not correct. Something needs to change to make the boat want to accelerate without the helmsman needing to do much.

jeanneau-sun-fast-3300-boat-test-foredeck-tracks-credit-jean-marie-liot

Transverse genoa track gives full control of jib leech tension for both inboard and outboard leads without the need to change sheets

Know your modes

Good calibration will help you get into the right mode for the right situation. It’s about knowing how to change gears quickly and doing it in sync with the rest of the team.

Say you want to go to a fast-forward mode, you’ll probably move the jib car outboard slightly. You might make the entry slightly blunter. On a TP52 that might mean easing the sheet 10mm – which doesn’t sound very much, but when you’re dealing with high aspect, very flat-backed jibs, it’s enough to have the boatspeed pop from 9.2 to 9.6. That’s a dramatic change.

Although you won’t see such a big jump in lower performance boats, the same principles still apply.

If in doubt, go large

Good headsail trimming comes from a sailor who knows what headsails they have on board and knows what the crossovers are between those sails.

Tactical considerations come into play when deciding what size of sail to use in crossover conditions. If you’re going to sail in slop, or big waves, you might need to generate a little more power through the waves, so sail with more twist and more depth. But a general rule of thumb is to set up for the lulls.

For example, racing on a typical day in Palma, it’s nearly always lighter at the bottom of the course than at the windward mark. So when we’re going downwind we have a discussion about what jib to choose for the next beat and, more often than not, we’ll choose the bigger option to help us get through the lulls as we come out of the leeward mark. It’s easier to depower a big sail than make a small sail bigger. So if in doubt, go large.

Make sure you have a row of telltales near the luff to give you a clear signal about the trim of the headsail. The placement of these telltales can vary depending on the kind of the boat you’re sailing.

Some boats you sail soft on the luff, and by using a lot of runner you can make the entry a lot finer, so the helmsman sails with the luff of the headsail lifting slightly most of the time. In this case you should have a row of telltales around 300-400mm back from the luff.

On most boats, your normal upwind trim will be to have the leeward telltale streaming aft, with the windward telltale lifting to somewhere between 30-45° above horizontal. If you’re going for speed and footing slightly, then telltales on both sides of the jib will be streaming aft.

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How to improve a yacht’s upwind performance

by Simon Jollands | Boat Handling , Crewing skills , Navigation , Yacht ownership

sailing up wind

There are several ways to improve the upwind performance of a sailing yacht. Read on for some useful tips that should help in the upcoming season.

One of the easiest ways to boost windward performance is to make sure your boat has a clean bottom, as even a coat of thin slime is like towing a bucket behind the boat. By the time green weed starts to grow, the frictional resistance of the hull will be increased by 20-30 per cent. Given enough power, whether from sails or engine, you may still be able to reach a respectable top speed, as wave making resistance starts to greatly outweigh friction. However, when sailing to windward you’re never at top speed and reducing frictional resistance is a much larger part of the overall equation.

yacht preparation

Headsail reefing

Unfortunately, large overlapping furling genoas are not efficient if you’re trying to sail with the wind well forward of the beam in a strong breeze. The problem is that, once the genoa has been furled by more than a few turns the luff becomes very baggy, which reduces the boat’s ability to point close to the wind and increases heel without a corresponding increase in drive.

There’s no doubt therefore that more modern rigs, with a small non-overlapping jib, rather than a large overlapping genoa, are easier to configure for sailing upwind efficiently in a range of conditions. Decent reefing systems will tame the mainsail easily, while the jib won’t need many rolls to reef down to almost storm jib size.

However, some older boats can be successfully modified by changing to a non-overlapping jib and then adding a longer boom to give more mainsail area. This might be expected to increase weather helm, but in fact much of the area of an overlapping genoa behind the mast is also aft of the centre of lateral resistance and therefore contributes to weather helm.

sailing upwind

Heavy weather jibs

An alternative is to fit an additional removable forestay, just behind the main one, on which a separate small jib can be set. This can be a powerful arrangement, especially with a sail designed specifically to be at its optimum in heavy winds, and also makes setting a storm jib easy as it can be hanked to the same stay.

In the past such removable inner forestays were all made of stainless steel rigging wire, but the development of materials such as Dyneema from which rope as strong as steel can be produced means this is now frequently used for the purpose.

sailing up wind

Motor sailing

It’s not surprising that this is a popular move if you have a good distance to travel to windward. In many cases it can give a useful boost to boat speed and allow you to steer closer to the wind than otherwise. However, don’t be tempted to steer directly into the wind as the boat will be slowed by taking waves head on and if the mainsail is allowed to flap this increases drag, as well as damaging the sail cloth.

There is, however, a drawback to relying on the engine for a windward passage in heavy weather. The motion of the boat is likely to disturb any sediment that would otherwise be sitting on the bottom of the fuel tank, with the result that this can block the fuel filters after a period of time and stop the motor. Time to check those filters perhaps?

sailing yacht upwind

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sailing yacht upwind

What Is Upwind & Downwind Sailing? (Explained For Beginners)

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When first discovering the sport of sailing, some of the most important concepts you will come across are sailing upwind and sailing downwind.

What do these phrases mean?

Here’s What Upwind and Downwind Sailing Are:

Sailing upwind means that your boat is pointing in the general direction the wind is coming from, but not the exact direction because you cannot sail directly into the wind. Sailing downwind means you are pointed away from the direction wind is coming from; it is blowing behind you.

Table of Contents

sailing yacht upwind

What is Meant by Sailing Downwind and Upwind?

There are several points of sail that a sailboat may be on.

Upwind and downwind are broad terms that encompass a couple of these points each:

Sailing Upwind:

Sailing upwind means that you are sailing towards the general wind direction. You cannot sail directly into the wind; this causes your sails to flutter and all progress in stopping.

This is called being in irons, but when you trim in your sails as close as possible, you can point pretty close to the wind’s direction. This is called being close-hauled.

Exactly how close to the wind you can get depends on your boat’s design and the sails you have, but most boats can get within 30-40 degrees of the wind’s direction.

Some boats can get much closer than this; in fact, some designs, like recent America’s Cup boats, actually generate their own wind when moving fast and can get close to 10 degrees of the wind.

Sailing Downwind:

Sailing downwind means that you are pointed away from the wind.

Again, you will generally want to avoid going 180 degrees or dead downwind.

You can do it, but you are susceptible to sudden gybes, and it is slower than if you are taking an angle off of the wind.

Many boats sailing downwind will deploy a spinnaker, as it has a lot more sail area and moves the boat along much faster.

The third directional option is called a beam reach. This is when the wind is directly off the side of the boat, and you are sailing 90 degrees to the wind.

It is right between upwind and downwind sailing, and for most sailboats, it is the fastest point of sail.

Is it Easier to Sail Downwind than Upwind?

In general, it is a little easier to sail downwind than it is upwind.

When you are sailing upwind, your boat will heel more. Also, shifts in the wind will impact the boat more than if you are sailing downwind.

So, sailing off the wind (another term for sailing downwind) is usually a little more relaxing.

This is not always the case, though. On very light air days, you may favor sailing upwind, as it moves the air over your boat a little more, which could be welcome if you are drifting in hot conditions.

On heavier air days, there will be larger waves. While you may find yourself uncomfortably pounding into them if you are sailing upwind, inexperienced sailors may have more trouble controlling the helm going downwind in these conditions.

This is because of the waves trying to raise the stern of the boat and turn the hull back toward the wind.

This is often referred to as surfing, and it can be a lot of fun, but beginners will probably find it difficult to maintain their course in these conditions and may be susceptible to knock-downs.

Is it Better to be Upwind or Downwind?

The truth here is that it doesn’t really matter.

Unless you have a preference for sailing upwind or downwind, or your boat performs better under either circumstance, you will most likely be doing both during a day on the water.

Neither is inherently better than the other.

The other way to look at this question is positional: is it better to be upwind or downwind of your destination? This applies whether you are in a race and trying to make your mark or simply heading back to port after a day on the water.

In this case, it is almost always better to be upwind of your destination. You have more options to reach it than if you were downwind of it.

If you are downwind of your destination, you will have to tack back and forth to get there.

If you are upwind of it, you can bear off until you reach the desired direction. You will be in better shape for any significant wind shifts, as well.

Is it Faster to Sail Upwind or Downwind?

For most sailboats, downwind is a faster point of sail.

This is because you can deploy your spinnaker, adding a lot more sail area, which moves the boat along better.

Even without a spinnaker, most boats will be faster heading downwind than they will when heading into it.

This is not true for all boats, though. Catamarans perform better when heading upwind, as one hull raises out of the water, thus reducing the amount of wetted surface and drag on the boat.

Also, some larger boats like America’s Cup boats move so fast that they artificially bend the wind direction. They are almost always sailing upwind!

Note that for most boats, however, the beam reach is the fastest point of sail.

Many boats can carry their spinnakers at this point of sail – though these big sails are strapped in tightly when beam reaching – making them go even faster.

Can you Sail in any Wind Direction?

The answer here is a resounding no.

You cannot sail directly into the wind. This nullifies the lift that your sails are generating, causing the sails to flutter and your boat’s forward motion to stop.

Most modern keelboats can get within 30 degrees of the wind. You are sailing too close to the wind if you get above this, and your boat will be in irons.

Some boats can get closer than this, and older, wider boats will probably not be able to get this close, but this is a good rule of thumb for how close you can sail to the wind.

Your boat will let you know how close you can truly get!

Also, keep in mind that while you can sail dead downwind, it is a slow point of sail, and most sailors avoid it. Even heading above your destination and having to gybe a couple of times is preferable to sailing 180 degrees off the wind.

Many sailors who must do this, such as if they are in a race and trying to reach a mark, will take their genoas (if they are not using a spinnaker) to the opposite side of the boat mainsail is on; this is called wing-and-wing.

It is a little faster, but you are prone to sudden gybes doing this.

What Do you Do if the Wind Direction Changes while Sailing?

For most sailors, in most situations, this is not a big deal. You adjust your sails to the new wind angle and continue on your route.

If the wind shift is more dramatic, you may find that you have to tack or gybe to get back to the course you were heading on.

Or you may find that you have to do this several times to reach your destination if your original course is impossible because it is now directly into the wind.

The main way this would truly affect you is if you are trying to clear a dangerous area – like avoiding a sand bar or maintaining an exact course in a narrow channel.

In this case, you may find that the best answer is to crank up the “iron genoa,” also known as your engine. The crew on a smaller boat like a dinghy may drop the sails and begin paddling if there is a little breeze and few waves.

In more extreme cases, you might actually toss out the anchor until wind conditions change.

Final Thoughts

Upwind and downwind sailing are essential parts of the daily sailing experience.

While many sailors might prefer one over the other, most enjoy both.

The main things for a sailor in a new boat to learn about these points of sail are how close to the wind they can take their boat and how comfortable and controllable their boat is when heading dead downwind.

References:

Points of Sail

Sailing Upwind

Sailing Downwind

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Sailing in Windy Conditions – Top Tips from Skippers and Crew

Windy Conditions at the CYCA Winter Series.

Sailing in windy conditions can pose a big challenge for skippers and crew, especially if they’re not prepared.

Offshore racers especially need to be prepared for high winds and their associated sea states. However, even in-shore races can encounter challenging wind conditions, and often with the added complication of lots of obstacles to contend with.

What constitutes a ‘windy’ day? Well, that’s open for a bit of interpretation. Many people would say 20- 25 knots is windy, while others can quite comfortably handle 35+. It all comes down to your experience, they type of sailing you’re planning to do and how your yacht is set-up.

Whatever your definition, here are a few tips we’ve pulled together from our members on how they manage windy conditions:  

Preparing for Windy Days

Adequate preparation will make sure you and your crew are ready for the conditions you will face.

Pascale White, owner of online sailing school PrepSail suggests the first thing that skippers and crew should do before leaving the marina is to “check the wind conditions and weather forecast to find out about the wind strength, wind direction and imminent weather changes.”

Preparation also includes ensuring the yacht and its crew are prepared for windy conditions. The yacht and its gear need to be in good condition and it should have appropriate sails for the wind strength, including the ability to reef the main sail if necessary.

Crew should be confident in how to manage the forecast wind strength, have the correct wet weather and safety gear and know how to use all safety features such as reefing the main sail and tethering onto jack stays.

As Andrew Dally, owner of DK46 Khaleesi says “it’s all about the preparation you have done before you get in strong winds.”

Appropriate Sail Choice

The right sail choice is critical in heavy winds.

This is not only so you have control of the yacht at all times, but also to protect your sails. A windy day is often a sail maker’s dream, as ripped sails pile up to be fixed at the end of a race.

Neil Rechlin, navigator on Nine Dragons suggests “if in doubt, drop a sail size, or even loose the spinnaker – the yacht that makes the least mistakes tends to win (or at least get on the podium).”

Pascale White recommends shortening sails early to avoid getting into trouble in windy conditions. “If you are on the water and there is an increase in wind conditions, don’t wait too long before changing sails or reefing the main. Good timing will make it easy on the crew, whilst a late action will be difficult to handle.”

Be Conservative

“Having a wipe out nearly always costs you more time than sailing conservatively,” says Neil Rechlin of Nine Dragons.

Sailing conservatively can mean several things, such as reducing sail area, taking a little more time to do manoeuvres and minimising manoeuvres such as gybes and spinnaker peels where possible.

Keeping extra distance at the start and while rounding marks is a good way to stay safe and avoid a collision, suggests yacht owner and experienced racing sailor Bryan Moore. “At the start, keep extra distance from other boats and the committee vessel (CV). In windy conditions at Sydney Harbour Regatta this year a CV was t-boned and another competitor picked up the pin around its keel. Both events could have been very dangerous to crews.”

Bryan also suggests to “reef early, before the race for inshore and well before the front arrives for offshore, and use sensible heady’s to match.”

Foreign Affairs sails in windy conditions at the CYCA Winter Series.

Trim for Heavy Air

Trim techniques and objectives in heavy air differ from how you would trim in lighter winds.

Pascale White explains some of the techniques here:

When there is too much wind, the objective is to depower the boat to keep control while maintaining good speed. De-powering techniques include:

  • Reduce power by flattening sails: Bend the mast, tighten the outhaul, reduce the forestay sag and move the jib cars aft.
  • Reduce the angle of attack: Head up slightly and lower the traveller.
  • Reduce power by adding twist: Ease the sheets a few inches.

Depending on the wind velocity, the objectives of trimming a sail will vary. Both sails need to be balanced to keep the boat moving forward and to moderate the heeling angle.

  • The jib halyard tension affects the draft position, the jib sheet controls the sail’s angle to the boat centreline, the jib car affects the twist of the sail and the tension of the forestay affects the shape of the jib.
  • The mainsail trim involves a few adjustments, including adjusting the twist using the mainsheet and vang tension, adjusting the sail depth using the mast bend and the outhaul, adjusting the draft position using the main halyard, and finally adjusting the helm balance using the traveller position.

The traveller can be used to power or depower the boat. In heavy wind, move the traveller to leeward. The traveller should be constantly in motion upwind, used in concert with the helm as the boat sails through gusts.

For wind gusts, be prepared to ease the traveller at any time!

Bryan Moore highlights the importance of ensuring crew understand how to trim for windy conditions.

“Discuss trim points, traveller cars and speed stripes for the conditions. Tape up bowlines on sheets at the clew – they tend to shake loose and you end up with a sheet-less heady. Ensure everyone knows where the boom-vang is and when to release it. The main sheet hand should have the traveller in his or her hand the whole time. Crew should also all have good gloves to avoid hand injuries.”

Crew Weight

Properly adjusted crew weight is important at all times, and this is no different on windy days.

Sailing upwind, you will likely want as much crew weight on the rail as possible, at the widest part of the yacht near the shrouds, where the weight will provide the most righting moment.

Sailing downwind in heavy air, crew weight generally needs to move back to counter the effect of the spinnaker (assuming you’ve chosen to fly one!). This is especially important for asymmetrical yachts.

Communication when sailing in Windy Conditions

Good communication is another area that’s always important, but windy days bring added challenges as things often happen fast, and the roar of the wind as well as wet weather gear makes it even harder to hear than normal.

Try to minimise verbal communication, and only say things that absolutely need to be said. Look at your crew or skipper when speaking with them, and where possible discuss manoeuvres before starting them so everyone is clear about what needs to be done.

Hand signals can also help, as long as everyone knows what they mean!

Experienced inshore and offshore sailor Jonny Allat also points out the importance of calling wind gusts and shifts on windy days.

“It’s important for someone to be calling wind from the rail so the main trimmer (as well as spinnaker trimmer if downwind) and helm can hear. If this is done well, the trimmers are ready to ease sheets and the helm can head up (upwind) or bear away (downwind) into each gust as it arrives. This will de-power the boat thereby keeping it under control, preventing a round up, maintaining course and maximising boat speed.”

Plan Manoeuvres on the Pointy End

The pointy end also has its share of challenges on windy days, and often provides a wet and wild ride for the crew on bow and mast.

Experienced bow-woman Liz Borberg highlights the importance of planning and being confident on the front.

“This is always true, but especially in heavy airs, the performance gain a confident and calm bow can give to a boat from being aware of what your next mark, manoeuvre or sail change is (or likely is) can be huge. Be ahead of the game. Talk with your mast and pit to ensure your process and timings are clear, make sure the back of the boat pass useful data, observations and timings forward. Keep an eye on wind shifts, be aware of next leg’s TWA (true wind angle) so you can predict possible sail changes and appropriate halyard/tack use, leaving tactical options open for the back of the boat. To avoid a purely reactive situation, think through “what might go wrong” and be ready with the fix before it happens.”

Sailmaker and experienced bowman Pete Jenkins also recognises the importance on planning bow manoeuvres and being ready for a rogue wave or possible wipe-out.

“For spinnaker races in heavy air, I almost always favour a windward plug in if possible. I also never take a jib or spinnaker onto the bow unless it’s highly likely it will be hoisted, to avoid losing the sail in a wipe-out or over the side in a big swell.”

“I make sure to have a person in the middle ready with the headsail bag, so I can bag the jib when the chute goes up, as you’re a lot more likely to wipe out and lose it over the side in windy conditions.”

“If it’s really heavy and a big seaway, I will tell the back to hoist after rounding the mark so the boat’s flat. This minimises the chance of losing the spinnaker while pre-bracing early or pre-tacking early with an asymmetric sail.”

“Lastly, if possible, try leave the jib up if it’s a short downwind in a harbour race in big air and have any extra floaters around you available to help control the spinnaker in a heavy air hoist or drop.”

Bow work in windy Conditions at the CYCA Winter Series.

Crew safety becomes even more important in windy conditions, when the chance of something going wrong are increased and retrieving someone from a man overboard (MOB) becomes harder.

Crew safety can be improved by requiring everyone to wear a properly fitted PFD with a crotch strap and installing jack stays so crew can clip-on while moving around the yacht.

Before doing a manoeuvre, make sure everyone knows what’s happening so they aren’t taken by surprise.

Everyone on-board should also be aware of where to find and how to use basic safety equipment, and understand basic safety procedures. Holding a safety training day to ensure crew are prepared for such circumstances is a great idea!

Mooring Safely

After the race is not a great time to start damaging your yacht!

When you return to your mooring or marina after a windy day, make sure everything is properly moored to avoid damage after you’ve left for the day.

If windy conditions are forecast and you’re in doubt about the state of your mooring lines, it’s a good idea to check on your yacht and shore everything up.

As Andrew Dally says, the “safest thing in windy conditions is to use strong mooring lines that are in good condition in a berth that protects you from the wind.”

Windy days can be a lot of fun, as long as you know what you’re getting yourself into and how to manage the conditions.

The best way to prepare for windy days is to practice. Go sailing on incrementally windier days so that you and your crew can learn to handle the conditions without taking on more than you can safely handle.

Do you have a windy sailing tips or story you’d like to share? You can email us at [email protected] .

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

The importance of keeping a proper lookout while sailing; a close call, vhf marine radio; answers to common questions, improve your performance with a race log for your yacht, why a crew debrief should be part of your post-race program, the perfect pre-race brief, checklist: prepare for race day.

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Tips for Managing Sea Sickness During a Yacht Race

LCE Old School is sailed consistently well - Andrea Francolini, RPAYC pic

LCE Old School is sailed consistently well - Andrea Francolini, RPAYC pic

Whisper is among the line and overall contenders - Andrea Francolini, RPAYC pic

Whisper is among the line and overall contenders - Andrea Francolini, RPAYC pic

Post start last year - Andrea Francolini, RPAYC pic

Post start last year - Andrea Francolini, RPAYC pic

Race is on to win 2024 Pittwater to Coffs Harbour Yacht Race

Over 30 boats will be on the start line for the 2024 Pittwater to Coffs Harbour Yacht Race this Friday when monohulls, a multihull and two-handed entries will share the start line off Barrenjoey Headland for the 1pm start.  

Respected sailor, Theresa Michell, has joined forces with Paul Beath and his J/99, Verite, for their first major two-handed race together. Newcomers to the Pittwater Coffs, Beath did the 2023 Rolex Sydney Hobart in two-handed mode with another co-skipper. He and Michell’s first two-handed training session was a four-day return trip from Hobart.

“It was all upwind. Not particularly pleasant,” Beath remembered. “One of the reasons she is doing this race with me is because she sailed with me fully crewed in the Sydney Gold Coast race and the rest of the Blue Water Pointscore last year and we get on well.

“And this race is at a nice time of year,” the Novocastrian said of the Royal Prince Alfred Yacht Club’s (RPAYC) 226 nautical mile race.

Although she halted racing at the end of the 1990s to raise a family, Michell’s credentials are outstanding in both two-handed and fully-crewed sailing, as a skipper, navigator and crew.

She contested the 5500 nautical mile two-handed Melbourne to Osaka race in 1999 on an Adams 10 that she also skippered in the 1998 Double-Handed Trans-Tasman Challenge from Sydney to New Plymouth in New Zealand. She has sailed on the international scene, done Sydney Hobarts and sailed an Olympic class dinghy.

“This is a new team in a new race and we think it’s a good distance. We’ll get our systems together and get organised,” Beath commented.

“It will be a demanding race because of the currents and fluctuating conditions.”

The pair are expected to be competitive against all-comers, including other two-handed entries such as Chris O’Neill, who returns with Blue Planet after finishing the race seventh overall last year.

“We also won PHS and were second in ORC – and these results were exactly the same in the two-handed division,” he said.

This time he will be co-skippered by Tom Johnston, who helped him to sixth in the two-handed division of the 2023 Sydney Hobart.

“It’s a fun race and a good location in Coffs, it’s not too strenuous and importantly, there’s been sufficient time between this race and the Sydney Hobart – I’ve forgotten all the pain,” O’Neill said wryly.

Among the latest fully crewed entries for the 38 th  ‘Pittwater to Coffs’ is David Griffith’s record breaking JV62 Whisper, which will likely battle Geoff Hill’s Santa Cruz 72, Antipodes, for line honours. Whisper is also a favourite for the overall win, but due to the many weather vagaries at this time of year, the race really is wide open in all classifications.

On his quarry, Whisper’s owner says: “With her long waterline length, if Antipodes gets reaching conditions, she is quick, she will take off. We’re in pretty good shape though and the boat’s in perfect order.”

Griffith says his crew will also hold them in good stead. Among them are Rear Admiral Lee Goddard, Michael Coxon, Dougie McGain, Michael Fountain and Brett Van Munster. 

“Either way, it’s a wonderful race and the Alfreds do a great job,” Griffith said. “Everyone loves a destination race and Coffs Harbour is a great destination with lots to do.”

Others chasing overall glory are regular DK46 rivals Khaleesi (Sandy Farquharson/Rob Aldis) and LCE Old School Racing (Mark Griffith). At the Nautilus Marine Insurance Sydney Harbour Regatta in early March, the latter placed second in the Open division on home turf, while Griffith’s boat, from RPAYC, was second. Another DK46, Nine Dragons, was declared the winner. 

Pierre Gal has entered the Asia catamaran Stealth 12.60 named Fez. The French expat, who lives on the NSW north coast, is a name locally and internationally, competing in the America’s Cup for France and has Australian victories too.

Incidentally, Gal won Division 4 of the 2019 Sydney Gold Coast race with Mistral, the same Lombard 34 that won the 2023 Pittwater Coffs race for two-handed sailors, Rupert Henry and Greg O’Shea last year.

Follow the fleet on the race tracker at:  https://yb.tl/pittwater2024

For all information go to:  www.pittwatertocoffs.com.au

Di Pearson/RPAYC media

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COMMENTS

  1. How A Boat Sails Upwind

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  2. How to Sail Upwind (Against the Wind)?

    How to tack a sailing yacht to sail upwind (against the wind) Let's now get to the heart of the matter: the technical aspect of tacking a sailing yacht to sail upwind. First things first. A good communication and a coordinated team are a must when tacking a sailing boat. To follow, the different steps of the process but before a brief ...

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  22. Sailing in Windy Conditions

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  23. Heavy weather dynamics: the behaviour of yachts sailing upwind in high

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