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Sailboat Wind Generators: The Ultimate Guide 2024

Sailboat wind generators are a way to capture the energy of the wind and use it to charge your batteries and power electronics aboard your vessel.

A large part of the appeal of living on a sailboat, for many people, is being more or less self-sufficient – using the wind for propulsion, and the elements to generate all the power you need.

Solar panels are a wonderful technology, literally magic, but the sun doesn’t shine every day. In fact, of the most popular cruising grounds in the world aren’t even that sunny. It rains three to four days a week in Barbados or Antigua, for example (don’t even get us started on the English Channel).

And what about night sailing – keeping critical loads like autopilots and instruments online after the sun goes down?

A marine wind generator fills in those vital gaps in the energy picture, and eliminates the need to generate or run the engines to keep your electronics online.

In this expert guide we take a deep dive into sailboat wind generators, covering everything you need to know – from how they work through to the very latest technological advances.

With thousands and thousands of miles under the keel, we have lived off-grid using technologies just like this for almost a decade now. We’ve rewired more boats than anyone should ever have to. We’re marine electronics nerds, basically, and specifically very passionate about renewables like wind and solar.

That’s why we couldn’t wait to write about this topic, and why you’ve got a good 4000 words on it! Sorry about that! But feel free to skip and just read the information you’re interested in, we don’t blame you!

So, let’s take a close look at sailboat wind generators, how they work, what makes a good one, the best sailboat wind generators that we think deserve a place on your next nautical expedition.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

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Table of Contents

The best sailboat wind generators – best budget choice, the best sailboat wind generators – best overall, what is a sailboat wind generator, why install a wind generator on a sailboat, wind generators vs solar power.

  • What is a dump load on a marine wind generator ?
  • Marine wind generators vs hydro generators

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Our top budget choice: Nature Power 500

If you are in the US, the choice for the best budget marine wind generator is easy – it’s this guy , the Nature Power 500, which West Marine have sold for donkey’s years with eternally solid reviews.

It’s a 500-watt turbine that is natively compatible with both 12V and 24VDC systems. It’s made from marine-grade aluminium that’s also coated in a thick, durable coating to help it withstand years at sea.

This wind generator is rated for winds up to 110mph – well into hurricane territory – and it comes as a complete kit including a charge controller using the latest MPPT technology. The controller even has an electronic brake, even though it’s a manual one.

Honestly, this is just a lot of value for the ~$700 they’re asking, and very easy to recommend for the best budget sailboat wind generator.

We don’t massively recommend most of the budget options on Amazon for extended cruising – they’re just not built for the task. But if it’s all your budget will stretch to, something like a Pikasola 400 would be the best bet for a sailboat wind generator under $500.

Readers in the UK or Europe could look at something like a Rutl and 914i . You’ll pay a little more, around £850, but a Rutland is a proper piece of kit – they’re been manufacturing marine wind generators since the 1970’s, long before solar panels were even seen on pleasure yachts.

The 914i will produce about 260 watts in 30 knots of breeze, or 20+ amps into a 12-volt battery. In a hurricane it’ll make over 400 watts.

This is a genuine marine wind turbine built from quality parts and specifically designed for the aggressive saltwater environment. It comes with very few compromises, from the bundled MPPT tracker to its extremely quiet operation.

The charge controller supports a small solar panel as well, which is sort of nice – but we’d highly recommend using a top-quality, stand-alone MPPT charge controller for any solar panels if you can possibly afford it.   

If you are in Europe, or can import, we think the Silentwind Pro is probably the best sailboat wind generator you can buy right now. This is with the caveat that while we’ve seen these installed on lots of different yachts, talked to multiple long-term owners, and even handled one out of the box, we’ve never actually owned one.

That’s because they start at about €2,100, which is a considerable sum for a 420w wind generator. But what you do get is an incredibly refined package – one that picks up and starts generating with as little as four knots of breeze, and remains whisper-quiet right up into the high RPMs.

The Silentwind Pro uses hand-laminated carbon blades that are rated to withstand hurricane-speed winds, but that are also highly efficient across the curve. This is definitely one of the most engineered solutions on the market today.

The polished package is rounded out by features like an automatic electronic brake that kicks in if the wind exceeds a certain speed. Cheaper options may have an electronic brake but it generally has to be tripped manually by the crew.

Models without an electronic brake of any kind are frankly dangerous, because you have to lasso them to stop them – which is how the gentleman broke his arm, and wind generator, in the earlier example.

Other than Silent Wind, there are a few slightly cheaper options that are still very good. For readers in the US, one option made locally is the Air Silent X made by Primus Wind Power. We don’t have as much experience with these, but we have met a couple of happy owners and have heard similar things to Silentwind.

Primus claim they have the bestselling wind turbines anywhere in the world; we’re not sure about that given that Marlec / Rutland have been around nearly two decades longer, but either way their site states they’ve sold more than 150,000 wind generators since ’95, into over a hundred countries.

Primus make six different models at different price points that are all potentially worthy of consideration, but the Air X Silent or Air Breeze are both solid choices.

Rutland wind generators also remain easy to recommend across the board, particularly to readers in the UK and Europe, and a premium option would be something like a Rutland 1200 .

At around £1,500, or $1900, the Rutland 1200 can produce up to 480W flat out, and will hit 300W in only 20 knots or so of breeze. It’s a proper marinized unit built to withstand the rigours of life at sea, and that should provide years of low-maintenance service.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

A sailboat wind generator, also known as a marine wind turbine or wind charger, is a device for capturing wind energy and turning it into electricity.

Sailboat wind generators typically have 3 or more long, aerodynamic rotor blades attached to a central hub. The blades translate wind energy into rotational force and spin the hub, sometimes at near-supersonic speeds .

The hub is attached to an electrical generator – a lot like the alternator on an engine – that generates electricity as it spins.

A wind turbine is an electrical fan operating in reverse. The fan takes electricity and uses it to spin a motor, attached to a hub and some blades, creating wind.

A wind turbine takes wind energy and uses it to spin a hub attached to generator, creating electricity.

You can actually just spin any DC motor to generate electricity , but it helps a lot if you pick one that generates the flavour of electricity you’re after.

Brushed motors are appropriate for generating DC, whereas a brushless motor is better suited to AC voltage applications.

A handful of marine wind turbines, mostly older ones, do use a brushed motor set up to produce a voltage that can directly charge a 12 volt or 24-volt battery.

Brushed motors are called that because they literally have a core of metal brushes that drags along inside outer, magnetic stator. Those brushes wear out over time and need to be replaced. They’re in something like a starter motor that works intermittently, but putting them in wind generators was always a bad idea.

They’re also noisy – which is a major consideration in a device that is going to run overnight, above your head, while you sleep, every night.

Brushless motors have so many advantages over brushed, from their efficiency to their lifespan to their reduced mechanical noise. As such, most wind generators produce AC electricity and then rectify it to DC at the regulator in order to charge the battery bank.

This means you will normally have three wires leading from the wind generator on your sailboat to the charge controller. It also means you definitely don’t want to connect those wires, carrying AC electric, to your DC battery bank, without passing them through the charge controller first.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Wind generators offer a lot of advantages – notably the ability to work day and night, and in both sunny and stormy weather.

Solar panels are great, but they only work during the day – and on sunny days, at that. They’re also affected a lot by the seasons, because in winter there are both less hours of daylight, and the sun is lower in the sky, its rays have to travel further and they strike the panel at an oblique angle. And, it’s cloudy or rainy nearly every day.

Regardless of season, as we’ve explored earlier in this guide, some of the most popular sailing destinations don’t actually have reliable sunshine – but all of them have reliable wind.

Not so with sailboat wind turbines, which work just as well on sunny days as stormy. They often generate even more power in winter, on days when solar might be producing at 10% or less.

This effect makes wind generators a big enabling technology for grey-weather sailing, from extending your sailing on into the “shoulder season” and benefitting from empty bays and anchorages, to exploring unconventional cruising grounds such as the Scandinavian fjords.

Besides stormy and overcast days, wind generators will keep on producing at night. This is particularly helpful when night sailing with the radar, AIS and full nav suite running, maybe plus an autopilot, and then all your domestic loads like your fridge and freezer. Even if you’re just at anchor, it’s nice to wake up with topped-off batteries every morning.

This doesn’t apply if you have a modern boat with ample battery storage, but when we were just getting started in sailing, we would frequently have half-flat batteries by morning.

Not only does this shorten the life of the bank, it occasionally even meant we struggled to pick up the hook in the morning – which is a bit of a safety hazard. Again, this is mitigated by wind.

None of this is to say that you should ditch solar power for wind. Solar power has many wonderful properties, explored below, and the two technologies actually complement each other very well. If you have a large enough vessel, we fully recommend you try to integrate both into your power plan.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Wind and solar are both very useful technologies to the cruising sailor, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Their pros and cons in fact offset each other and synergise quite nicely, compensating for each other’s weaknesses.

As such, we’d argue it’s less about deciding which is better, and more about figuring out whether you can incorporate both into your power plan somehow.

Nonetheless, let’s have a look at how solar power and wind generators compare and contrast, and some of the pros and cons of each technology.

Advantages of solar power vs wind power

Solar power’s major advantage over wind is that it’s “solid state”. This means it has no moving parts to wear out, and requires almost no maintenance.

In fact, solar panels will generally sit and faithfully do their thing decade after decade with almost zero human interaction. A common standard nowadays is for panels to retain 90% of their producing power after 20 years .  

There’s a 10kW solar array in Switzerland that’s been feeding directly into the grid since 1982; it’s over 40 years old and going strong.

Solar panels benefit from wiping down once or twice a year, but other than that, they’re a totally set-and-forget technology.

Many sailing destinations have ample sunshine, with long hours of direct sun throughout the sailing season.

Solar is also cheap and plentiful nowadays, and panels come in all shapes and sizes that can fit almost anywhere on a yacht – including a handful of solar panels you can walk on, although those are not cheap.

Overall, though, solar is much cheaper than wind watt-for-watt. You might pay $0.50 per watt for a good rigid polycrystalline solar panel and charge controller. A wind generator may well run to $2000 for 400w – that’s $5 per watt, up to ten times more expensive. And the wind generator has moving parts that can require replacement.

Another often overlooked advantage of solar panels is that their solid-state nature makes them very safe – there are no moving parts to catch a finger in, or spinning blades that could strike a member of the crew. They just sit and silently do their thing, year after year.

Disadvantages of solar power vs wind power

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Solar only works when the sun shines. The sun, as we’ve pointed out earlier, doesn’t always shine. You might be surprised by how cloudy places like the Caribbean can be – some islands have rain up to 50% of the time.

Some popular sailing destinations, like the English Channel, average about two hours of sunshine per day, with rain or overcast skies on 75% of days annually ( no, seriously ).

There’s always night sailing, as well. If you’re night-sailing, you may well have tools like radar and AIS running for safety, plus other loads like an autopilot and anything like fridges and freezers running below.

If you only have solar power, and no wind, you may have to run the engine to make it through the night – or invest in a large battery bank that can keep up until morning.

Marine wind generators are an excellent way to bridge the gap. It can be windy at any time of the day or night, and very often the cloudy or stormy days are the windiest. It’s only sunny during the day, and only some days, so this is a major disadvantage of solar power when compared to wind.

Another disadvantage of solar panels is that they lose power quite dramatically when shaded, and sailboats unfortunately have a lot of tall, shade-casting objects. These include the mast, the boom, the sails and anything like radar or Starlink dishes .

Somewhat paradoxically, solar panels also lose power as they get hot in the sun, meaning the normal, everyday conditions in many exotic destinations can actually reduce their efficiency by double-digit percentages. They are happiest somewhere cold with lots of sun, like on top of a mountain – not in the tropics.

Advantages of wind power over solar power

The wind doesn’t rise and set like the sun – it can blow around the clock. Okay, technically, the sun rising and setting down does change the temperature and create all the wind on earth.

But the wind often continues after the sun goes down. In fact, when you’re on a boat, on the water next to land, the wind usually just reverses at night .  

It’s often windy on the water on sunny days because all wind is caused by pressure flowing from high to low, and the main source of those differing areas of pressure is heat from the sun – particularly, say, where the adjacent land and water heat up at different rates.

That’s how wind is made on sunny days. But it’s often windy on non-sunny days, too, because it’s just about air rushing between those areas of high and low pressure, hot and cold air. As such, cold fronts can bring wind too.

This makes wind somewhat more of an always-on technology than solar – especially in the places that sailing boats are found. There is usually wind offshore, and often in the anchorages too as it rolls off the hills . In some parts of the world, such as those affected by the Greek Meltemi , it blows straight 30’s weeks on end.

Overall, sailing boats are just usually found in places with abundant wind energy, so there’s a lot of synergy between sailing boats and wind generators. And we’ve pointed out, many exotic sailing destinations in the world have more wind than sun, and that’s before we get started on sailing somewhere like Scandinavia.

A wind generator has a small footprint compared to a solar panel, although it does need a large exclusion zone around it for safety. Wind generators are sometimes mounted up the mast, but we don’t generally advise putting a large, pendulum-like weight at the end of a 50-foot-long lever arm if you can avoid it as it may negatively impact the motion of your boat.

Disadvantages of wind vs solar power

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Wind generators do have some drawbacks compared to solar. The obvious one is that they have moving parts, which both present a hazard to the crew and require replacement or regular maintenance.  

The worst-case scenario is a crewmember being struck by the blades. The tips of something like a Silentwind Pro can spin nearly a hundred times a second and get close to breaking the sound barrier.

Here’s an example of where someone accidentally clipped their arm on a sailboat wind generator and it both shattered their arm and sent the turbine blade flying across the cockpit. The author notes that they had also seen the wind generator explode a seagull prior to this incident.

Much of this is mitigated by putting the wind generator outboard and features like electronic brakes, so you don’t need to stop it with your right ulna as the gentleman above did. The upshot is that wind turbines are dangerous in a way that solar panels are not.

The constant motion also generates wear and tear. It used to be worse, back when we used brushed DC motors – but the bearings in brushless motors do eventually wear out too, and they benefit from regular greasing a bit like your winches. It’s just an extra thing to maintain.

It can be too windy for wind generators, too. It can’t be too sunny for solar panels (although it can be too hot). Many modern, top-end marine wind turbines have that electronic brake built in to compensate for this, but you still have to shut down and stop producing when it blows a gale.

Another disadvantage of wind is that it’s really expensive compared to solar on a watt-for-watt basis. Good polycrystalline panels paired with a brand-name MPPT controller might come to $0.50 a watt at the time of writing, while a leading wind generator works out at $5.00 per watt.

This is compounded by the fact that wind does often produce on quite a concave power curve. That is to say, you need a fair amount of wind to produce anything at all, and probably need gusts into the 30-knot range to start to see your rated wattage.

Another often-overlooked point is that if you’re sailing downwind, you are robbing the wind generator of air. If you are sailing downwind in 15kts of breeze, making 7kts, the apparent wind speed at the generator is only 8kts – which might not even be enough to start generating.

Finally, wind generators can be noisy. Again, brushless motors have helped with this significantly, but there is still the rushing of the air over the blades, and any eccentricity in the bearings or blades will send maddening, resonant tremors down the pole and directly into your sleeping quarters at all hours of the night.

The latest wind generators make use of things like acoustic decoupling, a fancy term for having a rubber dampener between the end of the pole and the deck, to mitigate this.

What is a dump load on a wind generator?

sailboat solar panel wind generator

A dump load , also called a dummy load or diversion load, is something used in wind power to get rid of excess power when the batteries are fully charged.

One of the small downsides of a power source that runs night and day is the potential to oversupply electricity and overcharge the battery bank.

As an electrical generator supplies more and more power, it gets stiffer and stiffer to turn. The power has to come from somewhere, and it’s felt as resistance – producing a braking effect.

If you suddenly take that braking effect away by disconnecting the battery bank, the wind turbine will start spinning at very high speed, causing anything from rapid and excessive wear on the bearings through to a catastrophic failure where the blades shear off at supersonic speeds.

In order to prevent this from happening, the charge controller has the option to switch between charging the battery and supplying power to a dump load .

The dump load can simply be a big resistor. It will heat up as the wind generator spins on, and safely apply a brake to it by literally just wasting power as heat.

You can probably guess where this is going. Another option is to use an element specifically designed to heat up, and use it to heat water. You can easily buy DC immersion water heater elements for $20-30 , connect them in the place of the dump resistor and use them to make hot water with the excess power instead.   

We’ve often daydreamed about using it to make ice or run a teeny tiny aircon unit as well.

Some of the top-end sailboat wind generators will automatically apply an electronic brake and safely stop the blades when the bank is full, and it varies from model to model whether they simply have that as an option, or it replaces the dump load entirely (including useful ones, like making hot water).  

Do not be tempted to use the dump load to charge a second battery, such as a starter battery, when the first bank is full. If you do, you will encounter problems once the second battery is full and the turbine starts to freewheel.

If you do want to charge several banks at once, or one after the other, you want a split charger connected to the main charging output instead, and a highly resistive load that can run indefinitely on the dump load output.

Marine wind generators vs hydro generators  

Hydro generators are another way of capturing the energy of the wind and turning it into electricity. But instead of capturing the flow of air, a hydro generator is dragged through the water behind a boat under sail.  

The elephant in the room here is that a hydro generator is only going to work when the boat is in motion. A wind generator, on the other hand, keeps on producing while you swing around at anchor.

The average cruiser spends around 90% of their time either at anchor, on a mooring ball, on town quays, or in marinas. This is because the everyday business of cruising is not so much about sailing as it is about fixing the boat, going ashore for provisions or parts, waiting for a weather window, or exploring the place you sailed to, socialising with the other yachties you just met, barbecuing on the deck, and so forth.

The wind generator works through all of that, night and day; the hydro generator only a fraction.

So why does anyone use hydro generators at all, then?

The answer lies in the fact that a traditional trade-wind circumnavigation, by far the most popular way to “sail around the world”, is almost all downwind .

As a result, you are often “running away” from the wind when you sail around the world, which has the effect of subtracting your speed from the true wind speed and deducting that much power from your wind generator.

Thus, if you want to sail around the world on say, a performance catamaran, it might make sense to drag a generator behind the boat instead of in the air. That way, its performance is tied to your boat’s speed through the water rather than the apparent wind.

An adjacent use-case to this is people who “sail around the world” in the sense of not stopping, or stopping very little. Someone sailing non-stop downwind around the world, particularly on any kind of record attempt, would probably get a lot more of out of a hydro generator.

Another place hydro generators are seen is in the regenerative systems of systems like Oceanvolt . In these sophisticated systems, the propellors of the boat itself work as hydro generators by spinning and capturing energy as they’re dragged through the water under sail.

This feature is even starting to show up on electric outboards, such as the ePropulsion Navy series.

In summary, wind generators are the most practical choice for the average cruiser, multi-year circumnavigator or liveaboard sailor. Unless you love sailing so much that desperately want to go and tack around for four hours to charge your batteries – in which case, more power to you.

Wind generators can form an incredibly useful part of the renewable energy mix on board a sailboat.

While wind power on a sailboat works out many times more expensive than solar power, watt-for-watt, it makes up for this by generating power day and night – and often making even more power at times when solar falters, such as during storms.

Cruising sailboats that only have solar power will be forced to generate or motor if it’s cloudy for days on end, something that happens at least once or twice a month somewhere like the Caribbean.

Solar, naturally, doesn’t produce at night either, so if you have a lot of electrical loads running overnight your battery bank can take a beating.

A common example of where you might get caught out is night sailing with the autopilot, radar, AIS and instruments all running, in addition to your regular loads like the fridge.

Wind generators might usually be sized to produce less than a solar array because of cost, space and weight considerations, but they have the potential to run all day and night and in any kind of weather, and as such they often punch above their weight in terms of the overall energy generation picture.

Electrical loads might slow down a little overnight, as the crew sleep and lower temperatures mean fridges and freezers don’t work as hard, but it’s not uncommon for the overnight draw on a sailboat to be 8-10 amps or more. It adds up, by morning. 

Wind represents an excellent bridging technology for nights and extended cloudy spells, naturally producing the most when solar fails – such as during storms. 

A sailboat wind generator is most effective when paired with solar and a good lithium battery bank , allowing you to generate in all conditions. day and night; and to store and retrieve that energy efficiently even at high currents. 

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

Choosing a Wind Generator for a Sailboat – Complete GUIDE

Nothing denotes a salty off-the-grid ready yacht more than the sight of a wind generator mounted on the stern. Once, these were the main component of a sailor’s renewable energy arsenal. 

But today, as is the case with wind generators for RVs , the technology has fallen behind the fantastic strides that solar panels have made. Today’s solar panels are less expensive and more efficient than ever before, while wind generator technology hasn’t progressed much in the last 50 years.

Still, there are limited times when wind generators make the most sense on sailboats. Here’s a look at who could benefit from one and five of the best options on the market.

Table of Contents

Is a wind generator right for me, how much power do i need, alternatives to wind power, things to look for in a marine wind generator, 5 great marine wind generators.

Before you dive into the whirlwind of information out there about marine wind generators, take a step back for a reality check. Wind generators were the standard-bearer for years onboard sailboats, but in the 21st century, their usefulness has all but been replaced by solar panels. Solar is efficient, silent, and completely maintenance-free. 

As a result, the usefulness of a wind generator is now much more limited. There are many pros for wind generators—but most of them can be negated by one simple fact–the amount of usable power they produce is significantly less and more expensive than solar. 

Furthermore, the two times when a wind generator does make sense are not conditions typically encountered by most cruisers. Wind generators are only effective for significant power when the apparent wind speed on deck is more than 15 knots. That’s apparent wind speed on deck—meaning most downwind sailing in winds less than 22 knots true or so would be out. 

And then there are anchorages, where sailors hope that a wind generator will help them live off-the-grid to avoid a generator or engine recharge. How many anchorages have you recently sat in that had a constant 15 to 20 knots of undisturbed wind blowing through them? Most of the time, we’re trying to get out of conditions like that, not anchor in them. 

There are some parts of the world where these conditions are the norm. Caribbean trade winds and high latitude winds make wind generators more attractive. Those sailors stuck in the “horse latitudes” in between will find their wind generators silent and motionless most of the year. 

The other time that adding a wind generator makes sense is when there is simply no other renewable energy option available. A wind generator can mount in many ways on nearly any type of sailboat. It has a tiny footprint, unlike a large solar array. 

The bottom line is this—only add wind power when you have absolutely no space left for solar. If you’re maxed out on solar, a wind generator can give you a little boost. But another solar panel will consistently outperform a wind generator—unless you’re that rare sailor whose anchorages of choice feature steady and uninterrupted 20-25 knot winds.

Choosing a Wind Generator for a Sailboat_Where you make it

Pros and Cons of Wind Power for Boats

  • 24-hour per day operation (as long as it’s windy)
  • Small installation footprint, compatible with most sailboats
  • Good options when solar panels cannot be used due to mounting problems or shading (especially on ketches)
  • Very low power generation in most conditions
  • Ugly and bulky, mast and mount included
  • Not effective when sailing downwind (like most tradewind sailing)
  • Not effective in protected anchorages
  • Maintenance intensive, moving parts and bearings wear out
  • Limited controller options, many not compatible with LiFePO4 battery systems
  • Expensive compared to solar

When calculating your requirements for off-the-grid living, the math does not lie. The problem is not lying when you do the math. You can find many calculators and spreadsheets online to help you make the basic calculations.

First, you need to know precisely how much power every electrical consumer on the boat will use and how long it will run each day. These items are often variable—refrigerators will have to run longer in hot climates and the summer, and lights will burn longer during the dark winter months. For everything that uses electricity, calculate the watts used per day (24-hour period).

Next, you’ll want to take into account how much power is being generated. It’s impossible to get accurate numbers for your setup until you’re out there doing it. In general, solar can be counted on for its maximum output for three or four hours a day. How many sunny days a year depends on your location. Again, there are many calculators online.

The wind is good for 24 hours a day, of course, but the wind is seldom that constant. So when calculating the math for a wind generator , it’s very easy to feel good about the choice. But practice has routinely shown that even a small solar array will outperform it in nearly every location.

As already mentioned, the number one choice for most sailboats for renewable power is solar. Solar panels are inexpensive and last for decades with zero maintenance. The downside is that they require a lot of shade-free space to work best.

For boats looking to make power during offshore passages, hydrogenerators are another solution. As long as the boat is cruising at six knots or more, the water passing by has enough potential energy to run electronics and charge batteries. The Watt & Sea Hydro generator is one of the best options out there, but there are also towable generators that do not require permanent installation. Some boats even have the option to use the free-spinning propulsion propeller to create electricity. Of course, these options only help charge the batteries when the boat is moving under sail, and only then at fast speeds. 

Choosing a Wind Generator for a Sailboat_Where you make it

Power Output

The first thing to realize is that you must take manufacturer’s ratings for their units with a grain of salt. The numbers are engineering calculations for ideal conditions. That is to say, conditions that a marine wind generator will likely never get to experience. 

Of all of the performance numbers worth considering, perhaps the most interesting numbers are those at the low end on the scale – when does the unit start producing power, and how much. Most of us boat in places with 15 knots of wind or less most of the time, so this is the range your wind generator will sit in for most of its serviceable life.

Noise Level

First and foremost – do not be fooled by online reviews. Every wind generator on the market produces noise. Since the noise is generated from multiple sources, it can be hard to compare apples to apples when shopping for a generator. 

Blade design has a significant effect on noise – some blades are simply noisier than others. Not only does the blade’s aerodynamics make noise, but they can also cause vibrations. All wind generators will require occasional rebalancing and adjustment to minimize vibrations from the blades. 

The moving parts inside the generator can also cause noise. Most are mounted with standard ball bearings that can and do go bad. Many manufacturers advertise these as maintenance-free, but that’s simply unrealistic in the marine environment.

Finally, the mount on the boat is a significant source of noise because it transmits the blade’s vibrations, no matter how minor, into the boat’s structure. Proper mounts have rubber dampening pads built-in, but even still, some noise will get through. This can sound like a buzz, hum, or even a thumping noise.

Quality of construction plays a huge part in how much noise a wind generator makes. As a result, you get what you pay for with wind generators. Unfortunately, the inexpensive hardware store models built for residential use are typically the noisiest. 

You can compare the noise output of various wind generators by taking a stroll around the marina docks or a dinghy ride around the anchorage. Bad or poorly-maintained wind generators can be heard from many boat lengths distance. On the other hand, a high-quality unit will be difficult to hear when you’re standing under it, much less on another vessel.

Correct Voltage

Wind generators should be matched to your primary battery bank—the one that you’ll be charging. Most boats will be 12 volts, and a few will be 24. 48-volt systems are becoming more popular on electric yachts and those using the battery bank for big consumers like air conditioning. These are the exceptions to the rule, however. 

Charge Controller Functions

Unlike solar, wind generators are typically matched to the charge controller that the manufacturer packages with the unit. There are simply a lot more factors that go into regulating a wind generator, including the generation technology it uses and how it brakes or diverts its load. 

Charge controllers are either PWM (pulse width modulation) or MPPT (maximum power point tracking). PWM is a less expensive technology, while MPPT controllers are more expensive. In the world of wind generators, which one a controller features is a bit of a toss-up. Some manufacturers swear by MPPT, while others say there is no benefit to the added cost. 

Most solar chargers accept a solar input, usually only about 100 watts, though. It’s probably more efficient to run your solar array on its own MPPT charge controller. But if you’re only planning on installing a small array and don’t want the hassle of programming separate charge controllers, having the option with your wind controller is a very nice feature. 

Finally, the programmability of the charge controller is a significant factor. Very few of the older PWM charge controllers allow you to input charging profiles. Again, this is less of a problem with wind power than with solar. But if you’re planning to use less forgiving battery chemistries like lithium, you’ll want as much control as you can get from your controller. 

Brake and Automatic Cut-Off

Being able to cut a wind generator off in an over-power or over-speed scenario is extremely important. All wind generators come with some form of braking system. The brake needs to be used when the system reaches a full charge, or the wind speed goes beyond the wind generator’s limits. 

Remember that the generator’s not simply limited by what the blades and bearings can handle. There is also the strength of its mounts to consider. For example, a 60-knot gust on a free-spinning generator will impose an unbelievable force on its mounts.

Then there are wiring considerations. The wind generator is only designed to output so much power, and during your installation, you must use wire sized for the maximum output. What happens if more than that amount of current goes through wires due to a brake failure? Heat and possible battery damage will result, but hopefully, the circuit breaker or fuse will cut it off before then. 

Some have aerodynamic brakes that turn the generator as wind speed increases. This theoretically means that it can never go over its designed limits.

Others feature a brake that is automatically or manually activated. It’s designed to come on when the current reaches a maximum, such as during powerful wind gusts. It also breaks the unit to a stop when the batteries are fully charged. 

An alternative plan is to have a diversionary load. Some wind generators will come with dump loads, which are nothing more than ceramic heating elements. When the wind generator produces too much power, power is redirected from the batteries into these heating elements. They’re also used when the generator produces too much power for the system during storms. 

Mounting and Unit Weight

The mounting mast used to secure the wind generator is sometimes more complicated than the wind generator itself. It must be strong and stayed from all angles. Stainless tubes with two supports are commonly used to mount them to the back of yachts. 

The construction and position of the wind generator are essential to reduce vibrations and noise within the boat. Don’t mount a wind generator over someone’s bunk! All proper mounts have sound-deadening materials like rubber grommets built in to make them as quiet as possible.

The blades of a wind generator must be positioned so that they can’t catch any lines, canvas, or flags from other parts of the boat. This makes stern-rail mounting almost impossible on ketches and yawls. On these boats, mizzen mast mounts are often the best alternative. 

Keep in mind as well that the spinning blades of a wind turbine are like spinning knives. Sailors have lost fingers trying to secure wind generators during storms. Therefore, they should be mounted high enough that it is impossible to accidentally come in contact with the blades during normal operations. 

As mentioned before, another critical component of the mounting is calculating the correct wire size. This is calculated from the unit’s maximum output, the round-trip length of the wire run, and the unit’s charge voltage.

Finally, the positioning of the wind generator should supply it with uninterrupted airflow. If the wind is blocked, even slightly, but a mast, sail pack, or hardtop, the wind generator’s efficiency will be negatively affected. These items could also induce turbulence into the air being supplied to the turbine, which could result in vibrations and noisy operation.

Choosing a Wind Generator for a Sailboat_Where you make it

When shopping around for wind generators , notice that power output is not one of our main criteria. This might seem odd, but all of the wind generators on this list produce more or less the same amount of power in a given wind. Some start producing at lower speeds, and some keep producing at high speeds, but in general, these occurrences are so minor and so rare that they don’t calculate into the shopping process.

Eclectic Energy D400

The D400 has a legendary reputation among cruising sailors as the wind generator of choice. It is nearly silent to the point of being very difficult to hear. It is built by Eclectic Energy in the UK, and you can spot its distinctive shape and five-blade design on yachts worldwide. 

For all the pluses, there are some detractors from the D400. For one, it is pretty much the most expensive option. It is also the heaviest—it requires a much beefier mount than other options do. 

SilentWind Pro

The SilentWind has a few advantages over many other wind generators. For one thing, the included MPPT charge controller features Bluetooth programming via a smartphone or tablet. In addition, you can set many parameters for the charge profile—meaning that it is one of the few wind generators that are at least somewhat compatible with the next generation of lithium marine battery systems. 

Compared to the D400, the SilentWind has a more lightweight and compact body. It’s a three-blade design that features blue composite fiber blades. The SilentWind is made in Portugal. 

Rutland 1200

Rutland is the wind power branch of the Marlec renewable power company from the UK. Rutland makes a wind range of wind generators for yachts of all sizes. The 1200 is a three-blade generator that features an MPPT controller with a solar input. At 10 knots of wind, it produces about 40 watts of power. 

Primus Air Silent X

Primus makes a variety of wind generators from their facility in Colorado. The “top-of-the-line,” so to speak, is the Air Silent X. It’s an upgraded version of their Air X that comes supplied with quieter blades made of distinctive blue carbon fiber.

Superwind 350

The German-made Superwind has a unique overspeed and overcharge protection system—the units feature feathering blades. This is undeniably more complex than many other options on the market. These generators are designed to be installed in grueling conditions where a damaged generator cannot be repaired quickly. Their primary market is aimed at remote telecommunication equipment stations and offshore sailors.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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Solar Panels vs. Wind Generators

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As the worlds largest solar-powered boat heads toward Miami for its U.S. debut and the start of a 16-city world tour, I was reminded of one of the most frequent questions I hear from Practical Sailor readers: “Which is best, solar panels or a wind generator?” The answer, like many things regarding cruising equipment, depends on where you cruise and the type of boat you own.

The MS Turanor PlanetSolar , the worlds largest solar-powered yacht ever constructed, offers a persuasive case for solar power. The sun-powered, 102-foot catamaran, which recently broke its existing Guinness World Record for completing the fastest trans-Atlantic crossing with a solar boat (22 days), docks in Miami later this week. Stops in New York and Boston are also included in its 2013 itinerary . Following its U.S. visit, the vessel will set sail on a trans-Atlantic, scientific expedition to study climate change.

For most U.S. sailors contemplating investing in renewable energy sources for the first time, it makes sense to buy a solar panel before a wind generator. For about $700, you can buy a pair of 60-watt panels that can generate about 240 watt-hours or 20 amp hours (assuming four hours of peak sunlight). This won’t cover the amp-hour requirements of a modern cruising boat, however. (To roughly convert a solar panel’s watt rating to amp-hours per day, marine technical author Nigel Calder offers the formula: amp-hours per day at 12 volts = the panel’s rated wattage 3.) Although wind generators can deliver more than double this output during a 24-hour period, many U.S. anchorages and marinas don’t have the consistently breezy conditions they require to reach their potential. That conclusion was borne out during our long-term test of five models on a hilltop in Rhode Island, a relatively windy U.S. location, during the mid-1990s. Testers then came to the dismaying conclusion that over the long haul, an average 50-watt solar panel would outperform the units we tested.

Results were different in 2007, when we simultaneously tested five wind generators through a breezy Chesapeake Bay winter. The results of that wind generator test (accessible only to subscribers) and an article on choosing a wind generator based on that test offer a more optimistic view of wind energy. As the results of the 2007 test demonstrate, in windy areas such as the Caribbean, wind generators can do a much better job of keeping up with the demands of 12-volt refrigeration, usually the biggest energy hog on a cruising boat.

Ultimately, which system will be most efficient for you depends greatly on the region you intend to cruise. Although many long-term cruisers making a loop through the Caribbean do just fine with solar alone, those with high energy demands find that supplementing solar with wind energy offers the best opportunity for keeping batteries charged 24/7.

There are several websites that discuss the pros and cons of these alternative energy sources from a sailors perspective. EMarine, a company that sells both solar panels and wind generators, offers a cut-and-dried comparison of solar vs. wind . Although the article is based on some generic assumptions that may or may not apply to your cruising region, it offers a concise look at the pros and cons. Nigel Calders “ Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual ” offers a more detailed discussion of these two systems. Last year’s blog update on solar panels also includes a number of links to Practical Sailor articles on solar trickle chargers, using multi-point power technology to boost solar panel output, tips on prolonging lead-acid battery life, and options for mounting high-output installation.

If you can look past the obvious sales pitch, West Marines West Advisor on solar panels also offers a good overview of solar systems for marine use . Although it has been a while since we have looked at solar panels, we are not big fans of flexible panels. If you are seriously in the market for a solar panel, look for rigid panels with 20-plus-year warranties. Since much of the appeal of solar panels is their durability, we would be interested in hearing about readers experiences with specific brands of solar panels over the long haul in the comments section below.

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The role of solar panels and wind generators on a sailboat

Discover the benefits of using solar panels and wind generators on your sailboat and how they can provide a clean, sustainable, and reliable source of power for your journey.

The Role of Solar Panels and Wind Generators on a Sailboat

Sailing is an incredible way to explore the world, connect with nature, and spend quality time with your family. As you embark on this exciting journey, it’s essential to equip your sailboat with the right tools and equipment to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. One of the most critical aspects of sailing is having a reliable and sustainable source of power. In this article, we will discuss the role of solar panels and wind generators on a sailboat, their benefits, and how to choose the right system for your needs.

Table of Contents

Why solar panels and wind generators are essential for sailboats, benefits of solar panels on a sailboat, benefits of wind generators on a sailboat, choosing the right solar panels for your sailboat, choosing the right wind generator for your sailboat, combining solar panels and wind generators for optimal power generation.

As you set sail on your adventure, you’ll quickly realize that having a reliable source of power is crucial for your sailboat’s operation and your comfort. Modern sailboats rely on electricity for various purposes, such as navigation, communication, lighting, and powering appliances. Traditional power sources like diesel generators can be noisy, expensive, and harmful to the environment. Solar panels and wind generators offer a clean, quiet, and sustainable alternative to generate electricity on your sailboat.

Solar panels are an excellent choice for generating electricity on a sailboat. They harness the sun’s energy and convert it into electricity, which can be used to power your boat’s systems and appliances. Here are some of the benefits of using solar panels on your sailboat:

Clean and sustainable energy source : Solar panels produce electricity without emitting harmful greenhouse gases, making them an eco-friendly option for your sailboat.

Low maintenance : Solar panels require minimal maintenance, as they have no moving parts. A simple cleaning of the panels every few months is usually sufficient to keep them in good working condition.

Silent operation : Unlike diesel generators, solar panels operate silently, allowing you to enjoy the peacefulness of the open sea.

Cost-effective : Although the initial investment for solar panels can be high, they can save you money in the long run by reducing fuel costs and generator maintenance expenses.

Flexible installation options : Solar panels come in various sizes and shapes, allowing you to install them on different parts of your sailboat, such as the deck, bimini, or davits.

Wind generators are another excellent option for generating electricity on a sailboat. They use the power of the wind to spin a turbine, which generates electricity. Here are some of the benefits of using wind generators on your sailboat:

Clean and sustainable energy source : Like solar panels, wind generators produce electricity without emitting harmful greenhouse gases.

Works day and night : Unlike solar panels, wind generators can produce electricity both during the day and at night, as long as there is sufficient wind.

Complementary to solar panels : Wind generators can be an excellent complement to solar panels, as they can produce electricity when solar panels are not generating power due to cloudy weather or at night.

Cost-effective : While wind generators can be more expensive than solar panels, they can still save you money in the long run by reducing fuel costs and generator maintenance expenses.

Easy to install : Wind generators can be easily installed on your sailboat’s mast or arch, making them a convenient option for power generation.

When selecting solar panels for your sailboat, consider the following factors:

Power requirements : Determine your sailboat’s daily power consumption to choose the right size and number of solar panels.

Type of solar panels : There are three main types of solar panels: monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and thin-film. Monocrystalline panels are the most efficient but also the most expensive. Polycrystalline panels are less efficient but more affordable, while thin-film panels are the least efficient but offer the most flexibility in terms of installation.

Space availability : Consider the available space on your sailboat for installing solar panels. Flexible solar panels can be a good option if you have limited space or irregular surfaces.

Budget : Determine your budget for solar panels and choose a system that meets your power requirements without breaking the bank.

When selecting a wind generator for your sailboat, consider the following factors:

Power requirements : Determine your sailboat’s daily power consumption to choose the right size and type of wind generator.

Wind conditions : Consider the average wind conditions in the areas where you plan to sail. Some wind generators perform better in low-wind conditions, while others are more suitable for high-wind areas.

Noise level : Some wind generators can be noisy, which can be a concern if you value peace and quiet on your sailboat. Look for wind generators with low noise levels.

Budget : Determine your budget for a wind generator and choose a system that meets your power requirements without breaking the bank.

For the best results, consider combining solar panels and wind generators on your sailboat. This combination allows you to harness the power of both the sun and the wind, ensuring a more reliable and consistent source of electricity. When one system is not generating power, the other can compensate, providing you with the energy you need to power your sailboat’s systems and appliances.

To combine solar panels and wind generators effectively, consider the following tips:

Balance power generation : Ensure that both systems can generate enough power to meet your sailboat’s daily power consumption.

Optimize space : Install solar panels and wind generators in a way that maximizes space efficiency and minimizes shading or interference between the two systems.

Integrate with your boat’s electrical system : Use a charge controller and battery bank to store and distribute the electricity generated by both systems.

Solar panels and wind generators play a crucial role in providing clean, sustainable, and reliable power for your sailboat. By understanding their benefits and choosing the right systems for your needs, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience for you and your family. Combining solar panels and wind generators can offer the best of both worlds, providing you with a consistent source of electricity to power your sailboat’s systems and appliances. So, as you embark on your sailing adventure, consider investing in solar panels and wind generators to make your journey more eco-friendly, cost-effective, and enjoyable.

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Sailing with solar power: A practical guide

  • Duncan Kent
  • November 13, 2020

The latest solar technology makes self-sufficient cruising much more achievable. Duncan Kent gives the lowdown on everything you need to get your boat sorted

Solar_Paul Cleaver_Alamy

SOLAR POWER ON BOARD

Solar power is fast becoming the most popular and economic method of keeping the batteries charged on a boat.

Particularly now that the efficiency of photovoltaic (PV) panels, charge controllers and batteries is improving every day.

Furthermore, the latest technology in regulators and charge controllers has brought about a noticeable increase in useable power output, so the problems of shading and non-alignment can be compensated for more easily.

Not only has PV equipment become more efficient and cost-effective, but many of the modern devices we want to use on a boat have become less power hungry.

This means it is now far easier to provide your entire yacht’s electrical needs, both 220Vac and 12/24Vdc, from natural energy resources – particularly solar power, even if you are planning on a fully electric boat .

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Thinking carefully about how much power you need and how much your boat can accommodate is key to planning a solar array. Credit: Graham Snook

WHAT DO YOU NEED?

For instance, a boat with two new, good quality, deep-cycle house batteries of 100Ah each would supply 100Ah of energy to consume between charges, if you only use the recommended 50% of available charge between each charge cycle to protect the batteries.

From this you could run:

  • a modern 12Vdc fridge (approx. 1.5Ah, or 36Ah over 24hrs),
  • all LED lighting (say 20Ah per day),
  • various small device chargers (20Ah)
  • and a number of other items such as water pumps, TVs and stereos (25Ah/day)
  • Totalling around 100Ah.
  • For this you’d need 400W of solar capacity.

Of course, if you like to run a lot of AC devices off-grid such as hair dryers, microwaves, toasters and the like, then you’re going to need a DC/ AC inverter, which will take you to another level in power consumption terms.

But even then, with careful planning, solar could provide a large portion of the power you need before resorting to engine charging or a generator.

THE AVAILABLE SPACE

In practical terms, a modern 40ft monohull would have the space for around 1,200W of PV panels (cockpit arch, sprayhood top, deck), maybe 1,500W with the addition of a few portable panels for use at anchor.

The 1,200W of fixed position solar array could produce around 360Ah on a sunny summer’s day (zero shading) or more likely 250Ah on the average UK summer’s day.

So that’s enough for your 100Ah general DC consumption plus another 150Ah of AC consumption via the inverter.

Of course, to do this you’ll most likely need to increase your battery capacity to around 400-500Ah for maximum flexibility (you’ll need to store as much as possible during daylight hours), a typical figure for a 40-50ft offshore cruising yacht these days.

001_Solar-power__GS1

Get your solar charging right and you may never need to hook up to shore power

Typical daily inverter loads for a cruising yacht off grid might be:

  • induction cooking plate (20min) 60Ah
  • microwave (15min) 30Ah
  • coffee maker (20mins) 25Ah
  • hair dryer (5min) 15Ah
  • laptop charger (2h) 10Ah
  • or around 140Ah in total.

The trick is to monitor the batteries’ state of charge (SOC) at all times and vary your use of the inverter to suit.

For example, you might want to cook supper mid-afternoon, when solar is in abundance, and then reheat it in the evening when you want to eat it.

In some cases, when you’re cruising in warm climates such as the Med, you might end up with excess charge from your solar panels .

In this situation, many long-term cruisers devise a method of ‘dumping’ the extra energy by heating water for showers.

Do bear in mind if you’re planning to live aboard full time , then it’ll be a whole different story on cloudy days and during the winter, when inverter use might need to be knocked on the head entirely.

Continues below…

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POWER DISCREPANCIES

There’s often confusion as to how much power you can harvest from a solar installation.

A PV panel is nearly always advertised stating its theoretical peak output power (Pw).

But in reality, on a yacht where there are limited areas in which to mount them, they will more likely produce a maximum of 60% of their peak output if mounted horizontally, increasing to 80% if tilted towards the sun and regularly adjusted.

The latter is rarely achievable on a boat, however, as even at anchor it can swing through an arc of 180° in wind or tidal shifts .

Solar-power_SunWare-Textile-Bimmi-Mo

Flexible panels can be mounted on sprayhoods or awnings to add power when it’s needed at anchor or in harbour

INSTALLATION

Having trawled through hundreds of ‘deals’ to get the best price on the most efficient panels you can afford you now need to know how to install them to best fulfill your energy generation needs.

The output, even from the highest quality photo-voltaic array, will only be as good as the installation itself.

So following our guidelines should ensure you extract every last drop of energy from your investment.

PANEL MOUNTING

Sailing boats are not the ideal structure on which to mount wide, flat PV panels.

So before you go ahead and purchase what looks like the biggest and best, take a few minutes to decide on exactly where you can mount them, as this will affect what size and type of panels you should buy.

In many cases the first choice would be on an arch, davits or gantry aft, especially if you already have, or plan to fit one.

Solar-power_Solar-on-gantry

Dinghy davits, particularly on multihulls, can support a huge solar capacity

These allow a solid metal framework to be constructed that will be strong enough to take the heavier, more productive rigid PV panels.

You can also build in some form of adjuster to the framework that will allow the panels to be orientated towards the sun for the best performance.

With luck (or careful planning) a gantry will also keep them aft of the boom, thereby eliminating loss of output caused by boom shading.

The next most popular position for mounting the panels is on a cockpit sprayhood or bimini, although this will often mean using the flexible or semi-flexible panels, which are generally less efficient than the rigid ones for the same area.

ELEVATED MOUNTING

Alternatively, there are kits available for mounting panels onto lifelines, which can allow their elevation to be manually adjusted to a certain degree.

Solar-power_Adjustable-on-a-pole

Pole-mounted panels can be used for maximum adjustability

Finally, panels can be fitted directly onto the deck by either gluing them down using mastic or attaching them onto a rigid support frame.

Once again you will probably need to use semi-flexible panels – especially if the deck surface is curved.

Rigid, glass-coated panels will obviously not be suitable for deck mounting in an area that is frequently walked over.

Don’t be tempted to drill through the panels, even along the edges, as this will invalidate the warranty and possibly damage the panel.

Solar-power_Adjustable-PV-panel-mount

With solid panels, the ability to adjust the angle can add significantly to output

It might seem obvious, but the key to an efficient system is to avoid shading wherever possible.

It’s no good fitting expensive, high-efficiency PVs right under the boom as they’ll perform little better than the cheaper types.

Saying that, in good quality panels each cell will be isolated from the next by a series of diodes (one-way electrical valves), so that if one cell is shaded at least it won’t drag down the other cells within the same panel.

Older panels often didn’t have these, so the slightest partial shading caused the output of the entire panel to cease.

OVERHEATING

Another important factor that is often ignored when installing the panels is that of overheating.

If a PV panel gets too hot, which is quite likely if mounted directly onto a flat surface without an air gap behind, its output will drop quite noticeably.

To allow for some air circulation behind the panels it’s best to apply mastic adhesive in numerous large dabs.

This is best achieved by placing wooden spacer strips between the dabs until the mastic has completely cured, after which the spacers can be removed.

You might need some form of trim around one or more of the outside edges, though, if they are positioned where sheets and other lines might get caught under them.

Raising the panels up will also help water to drain off and thereby helping to avoid possible delamination from sitting in water for too long.

CHARGE CONTROL

A PV module cannot supply an electrical device directly due to the changeability of the sunlight, which in turns varies the current it can produce.

Therefore, it has to be connected to a battery, which stores and smooths its output.

Whatever the size of your solar array you will need to fit a regulator, or charge controller as they are now more commonly known, to the system in order to control the output and to help extract as much power from the panels as possible.

There are two types of PV charge controller.

The older designs, called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) types, were fairly basic voltage regulators and simply output volts at just above battery level.

The latest controllers use Multi Power Point Tracking (MPPT) technology and can accept much higher input voltages (up to 240Vdc).

MPPT controllers can be up to 30% more efficient as they use the peak output of the panels to charge the batteries, even compensating for partial shading.

BEWARE FAKE GEAR

If you buy online do be careful to ensure you’re getting what you pay for.

There are a huge number of fake MPPTs out there, which are simply the much cheaper PWM dressed up with fake labels.

It’s hard to tell which is which, but the old adage of ‘if it looks too good to be true, it usually is’ makes good sense.

MPPT controllers are usually bigger and heavier than PWMs, but if in doubt call or email the supplier to discuss the pros and cons of their kit before buying.

If they’re not happy to chat and advise you then I would steer clear of their gear.

Some good MPPTs are made in China, but unless they have a UK supplier, I wouldn’t bother with them as you’ll have no follow-up advice.

To calculate what size controller you need simply divide the panel’s peak power in Watts (Wp) by the battery voltage, which will give you the maximum current (Amps) they could theoretically supply.

For example 240W/12V = 20A. Although it’s unlikely you’ll ever get near the peak output from any PV panel, it’s best to go for the maximum possible.

Induction cooking

Induction cooking is now a reality on board, even without shore power

PV panels come with a short length of cable, usually around 1m long.

Some are supplied with MC4 connectors already attached but most only provide bare wires.

The latter can be easily extended using proper waterproof connections but thought must be given as to the current rating and voltage drop (usually max 3%) for the size of cable you intend to use.

If in doubt, bigger is better!

Panels can sometimes be ordered with the wiring on the back so that the cable can go straight below deck through a hole under the panel.

031_Solar-power

You may need to fit extra battery capacity if you want to run an inverter from solar charging

SERIES OR PARALLEL?

A commonly asked question is ‘should I wire my PV panels in series or in parallel?’

The simple answer is, if there’s any danger of frequent shading to one or more of the panels then install them in parallel.

If wired in series the shading of a single panel will drag down the output from all of the others in the same series.

PARALLEL IS PREFERRED

Most commonly, multiple panels are wired together in parallel to a single charge controller, with diodes protecting each panel from discharging the others should one become partially shaded.

With the advent of MPPT controllers, however, there can sometimes be a benefit to wiring two or more identical panels into a series bank, thereby presenting a higher voltage to the controller.

It’s worth noting that, like batteries, wiring PV panels in series increases the voltage only – the current capacity of the array remains the same as for a single panel.

‘Where’s the benefit of wiring them in series then?’ you might ask.

Well, the higher the voltage fed into the MPPT, the more consistent it will be with its output, which could, in some cases, prove more efficient than a parallel installation with PWM controllers.

It’s also likely to be necessary if you have a 24V domestic system.

SERIES WIRING

Series wiring is usually only done when the cable runs are long, as it helps negate the voltage drop caused by the resistance of the cable.

While a decent controller will have no problem handling the output from four or even five panels wired in series, it is often inappropriate for sailing yachts as shading just one of the panels will reduce the output of the entire series array.

If you need to do so in order to reduce cable runs then it’s best to split the panels between each side of the boat – a series bank on each side.

If you do this, then you would ideally fit a separate controller to each series PV bank and then connect their outputs together in parallel to the battery bank.

Note, however, that panels wired in series must all be the same types with an equal number of cells per panel.

Furthermore, the charge controller needs to be sized for the total of all panel voltages added together and the current rating of one individual panel.

Differently rated panels can be connected together in parallel but only if each panel has its own controller.

The outputs of the individual controllers can then be joined together to go to the battery bank.

BATTERY BANK QUESTION

Another frequently asked question is ‘Can I connect another charging source to the battery bank while the solar array is charging?’

The answer is yes.

Any decent PV controller will be protected against feedback from other charging sources.

Solar-power_8366-Regina

Think carefully about where shade from mast, boom and rigging will fall. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CABLE SIZE AND CONNECTORS

A frequent cause of reduced output from PV arrays is wiring that is too small.

The resistance of a wire conductor increases in direct proportion to its cross-sectional area, so go as big as is practicable for the least cable loss.

Each panel should be supplied with the correctly sized cables for its own maximum output.

But if you’re combining panels, either in parallel or in series, you will clearly need to rate the single feed cable to suit the maximum current available at theoretical peak solar output and to minimise voltage drop.

Likewise, the cable from the controller to the batteries should be sized to suit the controller’s maximum output current and protected with a fuse.

For outside it’s important to use exterior grade cable, which is double- insulated and UV-proof.

WEATHERPROOF CONNECTORS

And wherever possible use compatible weatherproof connectors (usually MC4) to those found on the panels rather than cutting off the plugs and hard-wiring them.

Field- assembly MC4 plugs are available, so you don’t have to drill large holes in the decks or bulkheads when feeding the cables through.

When joining more than one panel together try to use the approved multiway connectors; not only do they keep the wiring neat and tidy, but they also offer a greater contact area than budget terminal blocks.

If you have to use screw-type connectors make sure to fit proper ferrules to the wire first to avoid any stray wires in the multistrand shorting across the terminals.

When feeding a cable from above to below deck, try to go through an upright bulkhead where possible to minimise ‘pooling’ of water around the access hole.

Also, use a proper watertight deck seal that matches the cable you’re using.

If drilling through a cored deck you need to drill a larger hole first, fill it with epoxy resin and then drill the required size hole through the epoxy to ensure no water gets into the deck core.

Ideally, the charge controller should be mounted no further than 2m from the battery bank.

If you need to go further, you’ll require larger cabling to reduce the voltage drop.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

A generous solar array will keep you self- sufficient indefinitely. Credit: Graham Snook Photography

CONTROLLER LOAD TERMINALS

There is often confusion over the ‘load’ output of a charge controller (often depicted by a light bulb) and what can safely be connected to these terminals.

Rarely explained in the manual, the load terminals should be pretty much ignored in a marine installation as the output on these terminals is usually very limited (10A max).

Some attach an LED light to them to indicate the controller is operating, but all your usual electrical loads should remain connected to the batteries with the battery terminals on the controller connected directly to that battery bank via a fuse.

It is possible, though, to control a high-current switching relay in certain conditions.

Installation

Parallel installation is more resilient to shading, but a series installation will increase peak charging outputs. A combination of the two offers some of the benefit of both

CIRCUIT MONITORING

Unlike most cheap PWMs, the majority of good quality MPPT charge controllers come with an alphanumeric LCD screen to let you know what is going on.

This can either be a remote display or simply one on the front of the box.

It’s obviously a lot better to have a proper numerical display than to rely on a few flashing LEDs to tell you when something’s not right.

So if your chosen controller doesn’t have one be sure to fit a battery monitor (the shunt type) into your solar circuit between the controller and the batteries.

It doesn’t have to be a very ‘smart’ monitor, just one that can display the voltage and current being supplied by the panels.

For smartphone addicts there are several wifi apps that will do the job remotely on your phone or tablet.

DEVICE PROTECTION

All good quality PV panels feature built-in diode protection between each cell to prevent a shaded cell from dragging down the productive ones.

In addition, there will be internal blocking diodes on the final output to protect the panel from polarity reversal and to ensure that the batteries can’t discharge back into the panel during the night.

The latter can be added externally, the former can’t, so check before you buy.

A fuse, rated just above the maximum current available, should be fitted between each panel and the charge controller.

Another fuse should then be installed between the charge controller’s output and the batteries.

In the case of multiple arrays, this second fuse will be rated higher than the individual panel fuses and should match the maximum current rating of the cable.

With this protection installed other charging devices can be connected in parallel at the battery, meaning the solar can be left connected even when you are hooked up to shore power and the battery charger is operating.

In some circumstances, however, this arrangement can affect the sensing of the battery by the charger, causing it to fall back into float mode.

If this becomes apparent it can be overcome by installing a manual/auto switch to disconnect the solar array when on shore power.

041_Solar-power_SF

Check the flex of the solar panel is sufficient for your deck

EXCESS POWER DUMPING

A solar charge controller works by disconnecting the supply from the PV panels when the batteries are fully charged.

But for some full-time liveaboards in sunny climates that can be considered a waste, when the excess power could be put to good use – heating water, say.

This is commonly done using an inverter to supply AC power to the heating element.

Alternatively, you can now buy a 12Vdc element for your calorifier (hot water tank) and supply this directly from your battery bank.

Both of these methods would require a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) to disconnect the element should the battery voltage drop below a pre-set level.

Don’t expect boiling hot water, as there will probably only be enough spare power to take the chill off it before your battery bank reaches its lower threshold voltage.

A 600W/12V element will draw some 50A, from the batteries, whereas a 1kW AC element run through an inverter will need close to 100A.

Solar-power_Solara-68W-PV

A small, semi-flexible panel will be sufficient for keeping batteries trickle charged, but not for heavy use

RIGID, FLEXIBLE, OR SEMI FLEXIBLE?

Despite massive recent improvements in semi-flexible panels in recent years, the solid glass panels still offer a higher power density.

That said, they are heavier, more awkward to mount and can’t be walked on, so unless you have a dedicated gantry aft, you’re better off choosing the more rugged semi-flexibles.

Modules incorporating monocrystalline cells also have a better output than those with polycrystalline cells (that’s cells made from a single slice of silicon as opposed to layers of smaller pieces).

Output voltage also depends on the number of cells on the panel.

In the past this has commonly been 32, but now some 36 and even 40 cell panels are available.

That said, they’re larger, of course, so an array of interconnected smaller panels might be a better solution.

Module efficiency is now more often around the 20% mark, as opposed to 12-15% for older models and semi- flexible (up to 20° bend) are usually better than flexible (up to 180° bend).

039_Solar-power_Yingli-Panda

A rigid panel is more efficient, but less robust

There are a huge number of panels on the market, but many use the same cells.

Sunpower Maxeon cells are exceptionally good, as are the Panasonic HIT range and LG, but they are pricey.

If the maker is offering a 25-year guarantee instead of a 3-5 year one, you can be pretty confident they’re good.

When it comes to charge controllers it’s definitely worth paying a little more for a decent MPPT.

A cheap PWM might be okay just to keep a small starter battery charged with a 30W panel, but the MPPT will give you much more when it comes to heavy service.

Victron are probably top of the range, while cheaper brands like MakeSkyBlue and EPever are also good value – but treat imports of unclear origin with care.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Duncan Kent

Duncan Kent has been evaluating and reviewing yachts and marine equipment for the past 30 years

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sailboat solar panel wind generator

Installing alternate power sources

Solar, wind can power a boat at anchor with system that take up less space than ever.

There is no greater pleasure than anchoring your boat and lingering as long you like. At face value this seems like a simple proposition, but our lives have gotten a little complicated. A crew at anchor will want to run the fridge, music, lights and more, and this all takes electricity. Thankfully, technology has advanced to where these systems can run indefinitely given ample sun and wind. Your time at anchor is only limited by water tankage and the beer in your fridge.

I recently helped a couple set up their Whitby 42 for long-term cruising with a self-sustaining electrical system. The boat was already optimized for efficient energy consumption with an efficient refrigerator, LED lighting and more. But the goal of self-sustaining electrical required solar panels, a wind generator and a system to monitor it all.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

One of the first jobs was to segregate the house loads to the house bank and the engine load to the start bank, both the positive and negative side. Isolating the negative side isn’t usually required, but the owners wanted a battery monitoring system, which requires that all the negatives of the loads flow through the monitor’s shunt. I added a few bus bars in the engine room to connect all the loads together.

The boat was originally equipped with a diode-based battery combiner, which works well but can drop almost a volt in the process. Losing this volt of charging power makes charging that much slower. I replaced the combiner with a Blue Seas Automatic Charging Relay or ACR. The ACR connects the banks together if it sees a charging voltage of roughly 14 volts on either side of the relay. The banks are paralleled when a charging voltage is present and isolated when there is not.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

We opted to connect the solar panels in a series configuration vs. parallel configuration. Although a parallel connection offers redundancy—if one panel fails, the rest keep working—and shadows have less of an effect on output, a series connection is more efficient. It will charge in less light and the higher voltage yields less system current so the voltage drop across the wiring is lower. As a side benefit, the cabling is a little cleaner too, as the panel cables just snap together and you take a cable from each panel back to the controller. Speaking of “snapping together” most solar panels these days use MC4 connectors, which are industry standard connectors that are both waterproof and very UV stable. I would recommend that you use, or fabricate, MC4 cables to connect to the controller. 

I used MC4 cables to connect the panels to the controller, and per the controller instructions, 2-gauge wire from the controller to the house bank. I used a Blue Seas circuit breaker in both the connection to the panels and from the controller to the house bank. It is critical to install a circuit breaker or some other form of disconnect in the positive connection between the panels and controller so that you can disconnect the panels to work on them. In theory you could just open one of the MC4 connectors, but this is a high-power DC connection with sufficient current and the nonquenching DC arc will destroy the connectors in time. 

We mounted a Leading Edge 300 wind turbine mounted on a custom bracket on the mizzen mast. The wind turbine is externally regulated with a diversion load controller. To regulate battery charging and to stop the turbine from over powering in high winds the controller dumps excess power to a large wire wound resistor. To prevent the generator from spinning uncontrollably fast in high winds, the unit uses a run/stop switch which shorts the output of the generator. In winds up to about 20 knots the stop function actually stops the blades,  and between 20 and 40 knots the function allows the blades to jog along. At more than 40 knots of wind, it is recommended that the generator be lashed perpendicular to the wind.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

The owner also wanted more granular performance data on the solar and wind system. One of the reasons we chose the Outback controller was the built-in diagnostics, logging and display. The controller will use the instantaneous input/output operating parameters and totals them each day. We don’t have direct telemetry on the wind generator but have discussed adding a system in the future. For now the owner measures the system voltage and current with a clamp-on meter.

It’s time to setup your boat and get out there. With a little work, you won’t be the boat that needs to break the solitude by running your engine to charge.

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sailboat solar panel wind generator

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What You Need To Know About Boat Solar Panels

Advertisement

Sunshine and boats are a natural together, so why not use all that free energy? Here’s the lowdown on solar panel selection and installation

Solar panel in use on top of a vessel in open waters during sunlight.

I first embraced the idea of solar power while up a pole (literally) in the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway replacing dead batteries. It was the early 1980s, and I was maintaining buoys, beacons, and other such Aids To Navigation (ATON) for the U.S. Coast Guard, replacing massive, nonrechargeable batteries with rechargeable solar-powered ones. The higher-ups said the solar rechargeables would last six years – twice as long as the one-shot batteries. As the deck-ape in charge of lugging all those batteries up and down the ladders, my back and I immediately appreciated the whole “free power from the sun” thing, a concept I continue to embrace.

The strategy behind s olar energy onboard is simple: A solar panel converts sunlight into electricity, after which wiring conducts it to your batteries for storage until needed. Solar panels are used to keep batteries or banks charged rather than to power equipment directly. This arrangement allows the panels to store generated power whenever produced, while providing a steady source of power to a piece of equipment even when the panel is producing no power.

While they do require an initial outlay, solar panels can easily pay for themselves in money saved and independence gained over their service life. They’re noiseless, have no moving parts, and they provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance. Solar panels also have the benefit of being modular, letting you start small and add more as your power requirements increase.

The benefits of solar

Almost any boat can benefit from solar power. Whether at a slip, mooring, or on a trailer, boats can keep their batteries topped off without the need for external power. You can also use solar power to supplement or even replace other onboard charging sources, reducing or eliminating the need to run engines or generators to keep batteries topped off (a wasteful practice that burns fuel while wearing down the costliest pieces of equipment onboard).

While underway, it’s a plus to be able to recharge a dead battery in an emergency – say, to operate a VHF radio or navigation gear. While dockside, solar panels keep batteries charged and vital systems (such as bilge pumps) up and running without the need for shore power.

Large solar panel mounted to a covered vessel docked in a harbor.

Just about any boat can benefit from solar power, whether it’s to keep batteries topped off or supplement other onboard charging sources.

Solar panel mounted on a vessel in use during a sunny afternoon.

Mount solar panels where they are exposed to maximum sunlight but do not interfere with operation of the vessel. 

Large solar panel in use on a clear and sunny day.

Bottom: Something as simple as the shadow of a line or shroud can reduce or halt output.

Types of panels

Solar panels contain photovoltaic cells – small silicon semiconductor devices that convert sunlight into electricity. Each cell generates between 0.45 and 0.5 volts, depending on exposure to direct sunlight. Cell size determines amperage, with a 3-inch cell producing roughly 2 amps, a 4-inch cell a little over 3 amps, and a 5-inch cell around 5 amps.

Construction-wise, the three main types of solar panels are monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and amorphous (or thin-film) technology.

Monocrystalline panels have been around the longest and remain the most popular. The panels are constructed of thin slices of crystal silicon (each cell is cut from a single crystal) housed in a rigid, aluminum frame and covered with tempered shatterproof glass. The panels have a uniform black, blue, or gray appearance and are generally quite rugged, although they can be cracked or broken if subjected to extreme abuse.

Monocrystalline panels have the longest service life of the three types. With a conversion efficiency of around 17%, they’re also the most efficient and have the highest electrical output per area, but they are also the most expensive.

Polycrystalline cells are sliced from a cast silicon block and have a shattered glass appearance. Built in much the same way as monocrystalline panels, they’re rectangular, giving the panel itself a tiled look. Their life span is similar to monocrystalline panels, and while their conversion efficiency is lower (by 14%), they’re also a bit less expensive.

Amorphous panels are made by placing a thin film of active silicon on a solid or flexible backing (such as stainless or aluminum sheeting) depending on whether the panel is to be rigid-framed and glass-fronted or flexible. Flexible amorphous panels, in which cells are sandwiched between rubber and polymer covers, are light and tough enough that you can walk on them and, in some cases, even roll them up for storage.

This type of solar panel is also better if shade is an issue. With crystalline panels, even the thin shadow of a rope or shroud across one cell can reduce or halt output of an entire module. Amorphous panels have “bypass” diodes that essentially turn off shaded cells and provide a current path around them. Some monocrystalline panels also have bypass diodes, but this feature comes at an increase in cost.

Amorphous panels are the least expensive of the three types, but their efficiency is also lower – around 8%, or roughly half that of a monocrystalline type. This lower output is somewhat mitigated in newer panels, however, which use three-layer construction. Each layer absorbs different colors of the solar spectrum, so the panel will deliver more power longer each day and during lower light conditions than the other two types.

Mounted solar panel charge controller

The charge controller should be mounted below decks and as close to the battery as possible. 

SunSaver-10L Solar Controller

Follow manufacturer instructions for wire connections.

Planning the system

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on knowing what you want the system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a single battery or supplement an overall vessel energy plan? Answering these questions up front will help determine the type, size, and number of panels required.

To understand the process better, let’s walk through the basic steps to determine power requirements and installation considerations for a single solar panel installation. While the example itself is simple, the steps are the same used to plan more complicated installations.

For our example, the goal is to install a solar panel to provide charging for a single 12-volt, 100-amp-hour wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel.

The first step is compiling a daily power consumption estimate to determine how much solar power is needed.

The daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly 1%, meaning our 100-amp-hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours just to maintain the status quo. The anchor light draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, and we’ll assume it operates 10 hours each night. Multiplying current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) generates a daily energy expense of 500 milliamps or .5 amps.

This means our solar panel must meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps – one amp of battery self-discharge rate plus .5 amps of power draw for the anchor light.

Next up is figuring out panel size and the best mounting location. For our example, let’s assume the panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt horizontally mounted panel should generate between 3- and 5-amp hours per day.

We’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge our 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with a minimum of 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts.

Keep in mind that’s the minimum needed, which may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome problems like cloudy days or inherent electrical resistance within the panel or installation components. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you’ll want to install a solar charge controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging.

Attempts to plan a system that tries to use the output of the panel and capacity of the battery to prevent overcharging (and avoid the installation of a charge controller) is false economy and should not be done. The system will never meet its full output potential and, worst case, can damage the battery due to overcharging.

A word on ‘charge controller confliction’

If your vessel has multiple charging sources, such as solar panels and a wind turbine, a crucial but often overlooked consideration is “charge controller confliction.” In short, this is an issue where the charge controller for your solar panel and the charge controller for your wind turbine are internally adjusted to the same maximum charge voltage set point. This means they are constantly fighting each other to be the dominant power source, which results in diminished overall charging output and performance. An in-depth article on this issue can be found at ­missioncriticalenergy.com (in the website footer, click “Superwind Turbine Manuals & Technical Bulletins.” Under the header “Charge Controllers,” select the document “Resolving Charge Controller Confliction”).

While this article addresses charge controller confliction at remote, off-grid sites, the information provided is also applicable to vessel installations. — F.L.

Location and mounting

Solar panels should be mounted in a location where they are exposed to the maximum amount of sunlight but do not interfere with operation of the vessel or the movement of passengers and crew. Solar panels will typically be either fixed or mounted on some type of movable bracket that allows you to actively point the panel toward the sun for maximum output. Both methods have their pros and cons. Fixed panels (which are normally mounted horizontally) don’t produce as much power as a panel that can be adjusted to face the sun. The downside is that adjustable panels must be aimed throughout the day to maximize their output.

Marine-grade heat shrink connectors for solar panels

Use good quality, marine-grade heat shrink connectors (top) and liquid electrical tape (right) to create airtight, waterproof seals and reduce corrosion.

Liquid electrical tape being applied to create airtight, waterproof seals and reduce corrosion.

Installation

After choosing and mounting your panel, it’s time to connect it. The first thing you need to determine is the size (gauge) of the wiring to be used. Multiply your panel’s rated amp output by 1.25 (which adds a 25% safety factor). Then measure the length of the entire wiring run, panel to battery, and multiply by 2. Once you have these two numbers, refer to the American Boat and Yacht Council’s (ABYC) 3% voltage-drop table for wire size. Ancor Products offers a handy wire calculator on its website ( ancorproducts.com/resources ).

Always use good quality marine grade connectors  and tinned, multi-stranded copper wire with vinyl sheathing. The wire will run from the solar panel to the charge controller first, then to the battery. Try to keep the wire run as short as possible, and if it transits an external deck or cabin house (it likely will), be sure to use an appropriate weatherproof deck fitting.

The charge controller should be mounted below decks and as close to the battery as possible. You’ll always want to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for connections, but in a typical installation you’ll connect the solar panel’s positive (red wire) lead to the charge controller’s positive input wire or terminal and the negative (black wire) lead to the charge controller’s negative input wire or terminal.

Next, connect the charge controller’s negative output to the battery negative terminal and the controller’s positive output to the battery’s positive terminal via an appropriately sized in-line fuse (or circuit breaker). ABYC recommends these be installed within 7 inches of connection to the battery or other point in the DC system. To reiterate, the installation of the charge controller can vary among models, so follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Finally, ensure all connections are waterproof and secure any loose wire runs with wire ties and cable clamps for a neat installation. Then get ready to lean back and soak up some free sun.

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS Accredited Marine Surveyor with more than 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s also an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. He can be reached via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” and website captfklanier.com.

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Best Wind Generators for Sailboats of 2024

Sailing gives us freedom: we don’t need a motor or fuel to travel the oceans. That freedom isn’t absolute. Most sailors still rely on electricity for lighting, refrigeration, small appliances, and to run the electronics that we rely on for navigation and safety. That means we need batteries, and if we rely on batteries, we have to charge the batteries. Since we’re already using the wind to move us from place to place, it makes sense to use that same energy source to keep our batteries charged up and ready for action. Wind generators are increasingly becoming a standard feature on cruising sailboats, and a wide range of products have emerged to meet the demand. This review of the best wind generators for sailboats will help you select the product that best meets your needs.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Solar Panels for Sailboats .

Quick Answer - The Best Wind Generators for Sailboats

  • AutoMaxx DB-400 View at Amazon
  • Primus Wind Power Air-X Marine View at Amazon
  • Nature Power 2000W View at Amazon
  • Missouri General Freedom II View at Amazon
  • Nature Power 400W View at Amazon

Comparison Table - Best Wind Generator for Sailboats

Reviews - the best sailboat wind generator, automaxx db-400.

  • Optimal Power AT : 28 MPH
  • Rated Output : 400 Watts
  • Voltage : 12V
  • Minimum Wind Speed : 6.7 MPH
  • Maximum Wind Speed : 112 MPH
  • Blade Diameter : 48”
  • Automatic Braking Controls Your Speed In High Wind
  • Built-In Charge Controller And Overcharge Protection
  • Maximum Power Point Tracking Gets The Most Power From Any Wind

BEST BUDGET WIND GENERATOR

If you want to try out wind power without spending a fortune and you’re looking for a basic, versatile device suitable for use on land or water, the Automaxx DB-400 is what you need. The durable polypropylene and fiberglass construction of this affordable wind generator resists corrosion and all parts are protected from both water and UV radiation. 

Some reviewers complain that these units fail to spin at the advertised cut-in speed and generated less power than expected, but many others reported performance consistent with expectations. It’s difficult to say whether these deficiencies are caused by installation issues, inconsistent products, or excessive expectations. It’s always good to test your unit on arrival and assure that it’s doing what it needs to do! 

As with all units listed here, you’ll need a mounting pole for this generator, but other than that it’s ready to install: the charge controller is built-in and you can wire it to your battery pack and forget about it!

Primus Wind Power Air-X Marine

  • Weight : 13 lb.
  • Voltage : Adjustable Output
  • Minimum Wind Speed : 8 MPH
  • Maximum Wind Speed : 110 MPH
  • Blade Diameter : 46"
  • Easy Installation: Wire Directly To Battery Bank
  • Auto-Brake Regulator Slows Blades When Battery Is Charged
  • Built-In Charge Controller
  • Marine-Specific Design And Materials

BEST OVERALL SMALL WIND GENERATOR

The Air-X Marine is the Rolls-Royce of small wind turbines. It’s made entirely in Colorado, and the relatively high price is reflected in the features and overall quality of the unit. It costs three times as much as an entry-level unit with the same output rating, but you get what you pay for.

The unit squeezes its mechanical and electrical components into a tiny ultralight package that is ideal for higher mounts and requires much less effort to secure than heavier bulkier units. You get a sophisticated built-in charge controller with external indicators to tell you when you are charging and when your batteries are full, and the unit is fully use-ready. Just wire it to your battery bank and you’re ready to charge.

This unit is one of the most popular sailing wind generators on the market for good reasons. It’s quiet, efficient, and gets the job done with no extra effort and very little maintenance.

Nature Power 2000W

  • Weight : 38 lb.
  • Optimal Power AT : 45 MPH
  • Rated Output : 2000 Watts
  • Voltage : 24V
  • Blade Diameter : 70”
  • External Controller With LCD Output Display
  • Industrial-Strength Aluminum Body With Marine-Grade Coating Means This Generator Will Last Your For Years To Come
  • Electromagnetic Brake System For Overcharge Control
  • Low-Noise Carbon Fiber Blades

BEST OVERALL LARGE WIND GENERATOR

This is the big boy: a full-on 2000 watt marine wind turbine, ready to install and power up some serious juice to feed those hungry batteries. The unit is designed to be effectively maintenance-free, with a coated cast aluminum body and carbon fiber blades engineered for quiet operation. There’s an external charge controller with an LCD output display to let you know what you’re generating and what your charge status is. Electromagnetic braking prevents potential damage from high winds and overcharging.

You’ll need 45 knots of wind to generate the full 2000 watts, but even at lower speeds, you’ll be putting out enough power to keep your batteries topped up. Paired with a solar array, this wind generator will give you all you need for complete energy independence!

Missouri General Freedom II

  • Weight : 59 lb.
  • Blades : 11
  • Optimal Power AT : Not Specified
  • Voltage : 12/24V
  • Minimum Wind Speed : 6 MPH
  • Maximum Wind Speed : 125 MPH
  • Blade Diameter : 62.5"
  • Rust-Proof Galvanized Components With Zinc-Plated Hub Make This Wind Generator Almost Indestructible
  • 28-Magnet Generator For Maximum Power
  • Aerodynamically Tapered Carbon Fiber Blades

BEST POWER-TO-PRICE RATIO 

If you’re looking to step up to a higher-output wind system without spending a fortune, Missouri General delivers with the Freedom II. This unit adopts a radically different design philosophy, featuring 11 carbon fiber blades to get maximum power out of wind in the lower end of the charging range. The Freedom II uses a permanent-magnet generator and several other unique design features to achieve high efficiency and durability.

This unit is quite inexpensive on a price-for-power scale, but it does not arrive installation-ready and you’ll have to add a charge controller, a dump load to protect your battery from overcharging, and cables. You’ll probably also need to have an electrician install the unit to assure that those components are correctly connected and working as they should!

Nature Power 400W

  • Optimal Power AT : 27 MPH
  • Minimum Wind Speed : 7 MPH
  • Marine Grade Coating And Sealing For Durability
  • Low-Noise Carbon Composite Blades
  • Smart Charge Controller For Maximum Output

BEST LIGHTWEIGHT BUDGET WIND GENERATOR

Nature Power turbines are designed specifically for marine use and offer a durable, corrosion-resistant cast aluminum body and whisper-quiet carbon fiber blades. There’s a specialized electromagnetic braking system designed to keep the unit within its electrical and mechanical limits without the wear and tear associated with mechanical braking and a smart controller that adjusts the voltage-to-current ratio for peak charging efficiency. The low weight of the unit makes it ideal for mast installations or other high mounts. As with any relatively low-output wind generator, you can’t expect to rely on this unit for all of your charging needs. It’s very well suited to use in conjunction with solar panels: on hot, still days the sun does the work, and when the weather turns sour or you’re out at sea, the wind will kick in with its share. This is an excellent choice for the wind component of a combined solar/wind generation system.

THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BUYING A WIND GENERATOR

It’s important to recognize that while wind power is useful, it isn’t magic. Most modern wind generators will begin generating power in quite light winds, but the output may be minimal and you’ll need sustained higher winds to deliver the charge you want.

If you’re moving downwind, you may get less charge than you expect: if the wind is at 20 knots and your downwind speed is 8 knots, your wind generator will be effectively receiving 12 knots, not 20! Many sailors find that a wind generator combined with a solar array is the most effective power solution, and some add a towed generator that generates power when dragged through the water as an additional option. The power mix that best suits you is something you’ll have to decide, but there’s a good chance that wind will be part of it!

Read through these things to consider to get a better sense of how to choose which wind generator is right for you so that you can get back on the water and enjoy the wind in your hair without worrying about losing electricity unexpectedly!

MANAGE YOUR EXPECTATIONS

A common complaint about wind generators is that they don’t deliver as much power as expected. This is more often a problem of simple physics than an issue with defective units or improper installation. The power delivered by wind increases with the cube of the wind speed, meaning that (keeping things very simple), a 20-knot wind delivers 8 times the power of a 10-knot wind. If you expect a unit that’s rated to deliver 400 watts of power at 28 knots of speed to deliver 200 watts at 14 knots, you will be disappointed, and it won’t be the unit’s fault!

While most units will cut in (start working) at 6 to 7 knots, don’t expect to generate measurable power until you reach 10-12 knots. Remember that if you’re on a downwind heading the apparent wind – the wind speed actually experienced by your generator – will be wind velocity minus hull speed. And remember that most anchorages were chosen because they are protected from the wind.

All in all, you are likely to find yourself generating less power than you expected. That doesn’t mean the installation is useless: it will contribute, it will charge your batteries while you sail, and if used in conjunction with solar panels, it can meet your charging needs. It’s a useful tool, not a magic bullet!

INSTALLATION

Your choice of generator will be affected by your installation options. Some sailors opt for masthead or mizzenmast installations, which can receive up to 50% more wind than lower placements but which are less accessible for maintenance and involve longer cable runs with more resistance. If you’re looking at such an installation, you’ll want a lightweight, low-maintenance unit. Most sailors prefer installation above the cockpit or transom, high enough to keep blades away from people and equipment but low enough for easy access and relatively short cable runs.

WATCH OUT FOR HIGH WINDS

Manufacturers claim very high maximum wind tolerances, but these are often based on wind-tunnel tests using controlled wind from a single direction. Turbulence can increase the burden on the device, and if you’re expecting wind in excess of 50 knots, taking down the generator is a wise precaution.

THE NOISE FACTOR

Noise and vibration were once huge problems with wind generators, with users reporting everything from a repetitive whump to a screaming howl. Modern construction and improved blade design have made turbines much quieter, but noise and vibration can still be issues. It’s great to generate power while you sleep, but not so great to have your generator keeping you awake! You may wish to check out some working installations to get a sense of how much noise is involved.

If you’re wondering whether to go with wind or solar, All At Sea and eMarine have useful articles weighing in on that eternal debate. For more information on Wind Generators, try these articles from Yacht Unlimited and Sail .

FEATURES EXPLAINED

About those numbers.

Rated Output is the maximum number of watts a unit can put out under ideal conditions. These numbers are based on wind tunnel tests and are rarely if ever achieved in the field.

Minimum (or “cut-in”) Wind Speed is the wind speed required to turn the blades. Very little power will be produced at this level.

Maximum Power is achieved at a specific target wind speed. Most units are designed to begin braking or “cutting out” power at speeds above this level.

Blade Diameter is the end-to-end distance between blade tips. You’ll need to consider this distance when mounting the unit to keep the blades well clear of any obstructions.

Voltage is the unit’s output voltage, which needs to match the voltage of your battery array.

Maximum Wind Speed is the highest wind the unit can survive. This may be substantially reduced by turbulence!

SOME COMMON FEATURES

Charge Controllers are devices that regulate the output of your generator to maximize the charging of your battery. Some units have built-in controllers with different levels of sophistication, and others do not.

Braking may be mechanical or electromagnetic and is used to assure that the unit’s rotation will not exceed its mechanical or electrical limits. Electromagnetic braking is claimed by some to produce less wear and tear.

Tracking Systems keep the blades facing the wind and keep the unit from spinning on its mount axis, which will twist the cable and damage the installation.

Blades may be fiberglass or carbon fiber, with more expensive units usually using carbon fiber. Many blades are designed to flex and shed wind if wind velocity exceeds design limits.

Corrosion Resistance is achieved by using a variety of coatings and materials. Marine environments place an aggressive burden on materials and both exterior materials and sealing are very important to keep units working.

A Dump Load is a device that diverts excess power to resistors that radiate it as heat, protecting batteries from overcharging.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out these popular buyer's guides:

Sailboat Anchors

Sailboat Winches

Sailing Shoes

Solar Panels for Sailboats

Bilge Pumps

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How to Install a Wind Generator on a Sailboat

How to Install a Wind Generator on a Sailboat | Life of Sailing

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

The marine wind generator is, without a doubt, one of the most effective ways of charging your boat's batteries while you are away from the electricity grid. One of the most important things to take into account when selecting a marine wind generator for your boat is the installation process.

As a sailor, you'll most definitely rely on electricity in running various parts of your boat. In addition to the power needed to run the electronics that are of great importance for navigation and safety, electricity is essential for lighting, refrigeration, and running other appliances. But because you always sail deep in the water where there's no electricity, you need another source of power that we can use to charge the boat's batteries while we are out there on the water. This is where the wind comes in handy. You're already using wind to propel your sailboat, so it makes sense to use the very same wind to charge your boat's batteries and ensure that every part of your boat runs smoothly and meets your sailing needs.

Marine wind generators are more and more becoming a standard feature on sailboats. They are a great source of renewable energy and one of the most important things is to learn how to install a wind generator on a sailboat. Installing a wind generator on a sailboat is a process that must start with an assessment of the sailboat's power needs. Knowing the amount of power that your boat will consume in 24 hours will at least give you a rough idea of the size of the battery bank you require and how many amps your charging devices should produce.

You should also know where and how to install the wind generator's system. This will, of course, directly affect how well the wind generator's turbine converts the wind power into electrical energy. You should also ensure that the amount of battery storage available on your sailboat, as well as the controls available, is efficient in ensuring that the generated power doesn't go to waste.

In this article, we'll take a comprehensive look at how to install a wind generator on a sailboat and everything else you need to ensure that your wind generator works properly and efficiently.

Table of contents

The Importance of Using a Wind Generator on a Sailboat

Even though wind generators may not be of much help off the wind, they are increasingly becoming more appealing to sailors looking for an alternative source or extra power for their sailboats. The fact that they rely on the same wind that you use to move from one point to the other makes them quite a hit. Additionally, today's marine wind generators have undergone continuous improvement over the last few decades and are now well proven and quite reliable. This is exactly why wind generators are still common in sailing despite the advent of solar panels and hydro generators.

A wind generator will keep your boat's batteries charged at all times as long as there's wind. It doesn't matter whether you're at the port or out on the water, the wind generator will continuously pump out power even on cloudy days. That's not all; wind generators are cost-effective since they're maintenance-free and do not need any launch or recovery. More importantly, there are very powerful wind generator units that can produce more than 400 units of power, which is just enough to keep a fairly medium sailboat running and operating for 24 hours.

But just like with anything that has advantages, there must be some disadvantages. One of the most noticeable downsides of relying on a wind generator is that the power produced by the generator can significantly reduce if there's no wind. Most wind generators can manage to produce about 200 watts of power in wind speeds of 20 knots but things can even become worse when you're anchored at the port since winds are generally very low at the ports. As such, you may need an additional source of power such as solar panels, especially if your sailboat has heavy power requirements.

Installing a Wind Generator on a Sailboat

Installing a wind generator on your boat's charge system is a serious process that requires careful planning and attention. As we noted earlier, this process should start by first assessing your boat's power needs. You should be able to determine the amount of power that your boat and its appliances need to consume in at least 24 hours. This will certainly give you a clue of what you require.

The general idea is to ensure that you don't have to keep your boat's engine running so as to keep your batteries charged because this might not be enough in running your boat's appliances. In most cases, a boat's power needs are modest. Well, the boat generally needs power for lighting, running the navigation and safety equipment, refrigeration, and powering a stereo, if any.

The Equipment Required

One of the most important pieces of equipment required when installing a wind generator on your sailboat is the turbine. Generally speaking, the turbine should be functional at both medium and high wind speeds. You have to, however, keep in mind that even the biggest wind generator won't produce much power if the wind speed is below 8 knots. The turbine should be tough, reliable, and quiet. You certainly do not want a turbine that sounds like an approaching helicopter as this can be so annoying.

Given that early models are very noisy, three-bladed rotors are becoming more and more popular. They are smartly designed with CAD blades that significantly reduce the whistling and thrumming sounds that occur at the tips of the blades. These modern rotors are also designed to be more efficient and reduce friction through the use of permanent magnet alternators that allow speeds of the blades to be reduced, thereby reducing the noise levels considerably.

With that in mind, some of the best wind generators to go for include Air breeze, Eclectic Energy, Leading Edge, Rutland, Silentwind, and Superwind.

The Aerodynamics of Turbine Blades

Ensuring that power moves from the turbine's alternator and safely into your batteries may seem like a simple process. There are, however, aerodynamics involved and it only makes sense if you understand how they work.

In terms of the blades, they operate based on a similar principle or a plane's wing. There may be some differences but they are generally designed to produce optimum output. This means that the turbine blades should not go too fast as it can mitigate the wind generator's efficiency. The same applies if it is too slow. In essence, it works like a car gear so having very high or low gear can be inefficient. The idea here is that the airflow will become unstable if the blades are at very high speeds.

The best way to solve this problem is to rely on the "tip speed ratio". This technically describes whether or not the blade tips are moving faster than the actual wind speed. As such, the blade tips should be moving at 320 knots on 20-knot wind speed but there should also be the survival speed, which is just the right wind speed that is needed to produce the right amount of power to sustain your sailing needs.

The Amount of Power that Your Boat Needs

It's of great importance to budget for the amount of power to ensure that every facet of your sailboat is functioning properly. Of course, there are obvious appliances such as plotters, interior lights, and fridges. There are also navigation lights, engine monitors, entertainment systems, pumps, watermakers , gas alarms, electric winches, hydraulics, and many other things. You should also make a good margin that will have you covered if there's an emergency.

You should also consider other things such as air conditioning (though this may need fuel) as well as the type of sailing you're planning to do. Will you be sailing upwind or downwind? Well, such minute factors can significantly affect the amount of power that your boat needs. It is, therefore, crucial to determine a clear and accurate idea of how much power you need to generate to perfectly operate every part of your boat.

Mounting the Wind Generator

One of the most challenging things that revolve around how to install a wind generator on a sailboat is where to mount it. Location is very fundamental and can either positively or negatively affect how your wind generator operates.

The golden rule that governs the position of the wind generator is quite straightforward. It should be mounted in an area of the vessel where there will be no interruption of the flow of air or wind to the turbine from all directions. Generally, the wind generator is mounted on the boat's mast with two stays. You can easily raise or lower the wind generator if it is installed with a pivoting base. But if it is installed on a fixed mast, it can cause difficulty if you want to secure the wind generator when there's an impending storm.

And because the main aim is to optimize the output from a wind generator, there are a few important things to do. The most important thing is to ensure that it is very stable. This is because even a slight rolling or pitching might just be enough to rotate it away from the wind. The wind generator also requires clean air from all directions and as much as possible.

As you can see, these two principles seem to be at loggerheads given that you'll get more wind speed as you go higher but this may affect the stability of the turbines. With this in mind, mounting the wind generator on mizzen masts can be a good option but choosing to mount the turbine just above the cockpit is an even better option. The idea here is that it will be a lot easier to manually control the turbine if all other options of braking it doesn't work. Again, installing and maintaining the turbine overhead the cockpit is a lot easier than when it is mounted on the mizzen masts.

That's not all; mounting the turbine over the cockpit also means that the cables need to transport power from the turbine to the alternator are much shorter. This means that the wire diameter will be a lot smaller without necessarily affecting the voltage. The fact that the voltage can drop if the wind generator is mounted up higher on the masts should be particularly important.

This is because it can affect the overall performance of the wind generator and the power it produces and this means that the power supplied to your sailboat might just fall short. Again, a considerable amount of weight can be reduced if the turbine is mounted just over the cockpit. The cables will be reduced and the overall stability of the wind generator will be increased if it is installed overhead the cockpit.

Of course, you'll also have to install the electrics that come with the wind generator unit. For example, there's the controller that is used in regulating the power supply from the turbine, as well as the dump load resistor that is essential in absorbing any excessive current that may be produced when the batteries are fully charged. There's also an inline stop switch, which is essential in turning off the unit when it's not in use. Well, most of these installations are straightforward and are generally shown in the unit's installation guide.

Assembling the turbine should also be a walk in the park. Units do come with fasteners and are accompanied by installation instructions that are easy to understand and follow, thereby making the installation and assembling process a breeze.

So if you've decided to install the wind generator overhead the cockpit, which is our best location, you must find a perfectly sized pipe and mount it solidly at any corner of the stern. You have to ensure that you support the pole with at least some diagonal tubes so that it doesn't swivel. And if you are planning for an off voyage escapade, using the hose clamps to secure the main pole might not be the wise thing to do. This is because they'll most likely snap and twist as a result of constant vibration and miles of hard sailing.

Securing Your Boat's Wind Generator

With that in mind, you should also be prudent enough to secure the wind generator if there's a pending storm. As a sailor, you should be prudent, stay alert, and prepared in case there's a storm. The most important thing is to know the dynamic of the wind generator and how to apply electric brakes or even have the turbines lowered when there is a storm.

You can do this if the wind speeds are more than 15mph. This is of great importance in ensuring that the wind generator does not overheat or the blades do not break. You can also choose to remove the wind generator altogether and store it in a safe place.

All in all, the importance of having a wind generator on your sailboat as an alternative energy source can never be downplayed. This is a great source of renewable energy that will have your boat working perfectly well even if you are sailing in some of the remotest corners of the world. Just know how to install the wind generator, have it maintained, and protected when there's a pending storm and you'll be good to go.

Until next time, happy Sailing!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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sailboat solar panel wind generator

Best Marine Solar Generators And Panels for Your Boats

Using the best marine solar generators and panels for your boat is vital in helping you reduce the cost of fuel, noise levels and carbon emissions.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

The marine solar generators and panels are installed in the boat, to ensure that you enjoy the full benefits of solar energy converted into electricity, which will be vital for running your boat. The solar generator will provide energy to power up your electrical appliances in the boat, including the laptop and mobile phone, while sailing.

Types of solar panels

1.   monocrystalline solar panels.

This is one of the oldest and most developed solar panels. It is often regarded as a premium solar option with the most efficient solar cell type.

2.   Thin-film solar panels

This is a type of solar panel, an incredible new development in the industry. The differentiating feature of thin-film solar panels is that they are not commonly made from silicone. Instead, they can be manufactured from distinct materials, including amorphous silicone and cadmium telluride. 

3.   Polycrystalline Solar Panels

These solar panels are a recent development; however, they are rising in popularity, convenience and efficiency. The polycrystalline cells are manufactured from pieces of silicone crystal melted together. The cells are vital for aiding efficient absorption of sunlight on the panel and converting into electric energy for powering various appliances. But its efficiency is lower than monocrystalline solar panels.

Who can use solar generators and panels?

Portable solar generator and panels can be used by everyone to perform various operations and functions.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Solar generator and panels can be used by individuals to power various electrical appliances while going out for a camping trip. Solar generator and panels are vital in ensuring that they won’t run out of power to recharge their essential electrical devices, such as flashlights, mobile phones, GPS, and mini-fridge, which can keep their food and meat fresh for an extended period.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

For Boats Owner

The portable solar generator and panels can be used to power appliances and tools on the boat when sailing. You can use the charge from the solar panels and generators to power up lighting at night when sailing in the sea.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

For Householder

Portable solar generator and panels are also essential for supplying power to lights and other appliances at home, including TV, fridge, boilers, mobile phones, and laptops. They also  provide electricity and heating water used in the household.

Benefits of Marine Solar Generators and Panels

1.   cost-efficient.

One of the benefits of marine solar generators and panels is cost effective. Solar power is readily available, and a renewable source of energy. It’s much affordable to produce power using solar power generators compared to gas generators.

2.   Environmental friendly

Solar generators and panels installed in boats can convert the sun’s renewable energy into electric energy, which is eco-friendly, significantly reducing fuel costs, noise levels and carbon emissions.

3.   Portable and reliable

The solar generators are portable and can be carried from one place to another. The solar generators and panels can also be powered by solar in almost all types of weather, including cloudy days.

4.   Eliminate sound pollution and offer silent operation

The best solar generators and panels for boats eliminate sound pollution and offer silence during boating operations in the sea. The gas-generators that power the boats produce annoying sounds and emissions, which cause disturbance to marine life. The solar generators can generate the required power to run the boat without creating excess sound or pollution.

Best Portable Solar Generators and Panels for Boats

sailboat solar panel wind generator

BLUETTI  PV 200 200w solar panel

This solar panel is made from long-lasting material and laminated technology that make it scratch-resistant and durable. It’s foldable and portable, making it efficient and convenient to carry during an outdoor camp. This solar panel features a 200 watt monocrystalline panel with a high conversion efficiency. The conversion efficiency is up to 23.5%, making it much higher than the typical solar panel charger.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

It also has an excellent 95% transparency that performs much better than the similar rated polycrystalline solar panels. You can use this solar panel to charge solar generators to power various electrical appliances at home or during outdoor activities.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

BLUETTI   AC 200max+2* B 230 power station+3* PV 200 solar panel combo

The BLUETTI AC 200 max is the first modular and expandable BLUETTI power station. AC200MAX  solar generator has an incredible 2200W full power pure sine inverter and 2048Wh ultra-durable LFP cells, which can allow up to 500W through the adapter and 900W of solar input. You can simultaneously charge this incredible power station through solar panels and wall outlets, simply boost an exceptional 1400W total charging rate.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

AC200MAX can power smartphone(10W) 175+ times, or LED light bulb(20W) 75+ hrs, or a fridge(90W) 17+ hrs.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Flexible VS. Rigid Solar Panels

Flexible solar panels.

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Flexible solar panels can be assembled and charged up in one place while moving from one place to another. Flexible panels can offer green energy in areas where it’s not readily available and can be used to power appliances on a boat, RV, or during a camping trip.

Advantages of Flexible Solar Panels

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Portability

The flexible solar panels are lightweight and have a handle, making them easy to transport from one place to another. They are simple to install and suitable for various services that cannot withstand a lot of weight.

Rigid Solar Panels

sailboat solar panel wind generator

The rigid solar panels are the popular panels we tend to see during our day-to-day activities. They are usually mounted on the rooftops and encased with glass-fronted units. They offer numerous benefits and reliable, clean, efficient and eco-friendly energy.  

sailboat solar panel wind generator

Each rigid solar panel is adjoined with a stable aluminum frame that protects the cells. It makes it much easier for the installers to handle the panels and bear more weight than the flexible solar panels.

2. Wind Resistant

The modified glass fronts protect the cells from any external elements, and the secure mountings ensure that the panel is not affected in any way by strong winds. The rigid solar panels are also much less affected by scratch or tear.

Simple Rules for Best Power Production

For you to maximize the power production of marine solar panels, it's vital to maintain, take care and have a regular check-up of your solar panels from time to time.  Some of the simple rules to follow to ensure that you obtain the best power production from your solar panels include:

1.     Monitor System Performance

One of the ways of ensuring that marine solar panels are functioning at their peak is by monitoring or examining the health or condition of your entire panel system from time to time.

2.     Keep Your Solar Panels Clean

Another important rule that you should consider is cleaning the solar panels regularly. The accumulating dust on the marine solar panels will hinder the solar panels from performing in the best way. The dust combines with the prolonged moisture in solar panels, which forms mud that can cause blockage of sunlight from reaching your solar cells. You should ensure that you spray and light brush your panels regularly to keep them clean.

3.     Avoid Shade by Keeping the Trees Trimmed

Marine solar panels produce energy depending on the amount of solar energy heating up the surface of them. This means that the more solar energy heats the surface of your panel, the more power the panel will produce. You should check every few months that the shrubs and trees are not overgrown to prevent them from blocking the solar panels to receive maximum sunlight.

Frequent asked questions

Q1: Is a solar generator a good investment?

A solar generator is a great investment. It’s one of the most incredible ways to obtain extra energy to power various electrical appliances at home, camping trip, and outdoor activities.

Q2: What can the best marine solar generator s and panels  be used to power?

The marine solar generators and panels can be used as backup energy for the boat, restore the boat’s batteries and power various appliances in the boat.

Q3: What are the pros of solar panels?

Solar panels provide a significant return on investment since you will not need to pay utility bills afterward. They are pollution-free and emit no greenhouse gases after installation.

Solar generators are built to withstand all types of weather conditions; thus, they would only require simple maintenance and visual checks to keep them up and running. The best marine solar generators and panels are environmentally friendly, they reduce pollution, noise, and do not produce any greenhouse gases or atmospheric emissions that cause harm to the earth. Let’s embrace the use of solar generators since they are cost-effective and offer numerous benefits to the environment.

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Wind generators, yay or nay?

  • Thread starter fred1diver
  • Start date Feb 25, 2023
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Ask All Sailors

fred1diver

Hello everyone, another couple of questions for the hive mind. was looking at getting solar panels for my boat, but I simply don’t have the room for them. So I got to thinking about wind generators, I can get a 400w for under 400$cdn. I don’t know if that would be sufficient for my boat, I mainly want to keep the batteries full when away from dock, I am running an ice box refrigeration, lights and radio, not sure what my needs are in terms of watts. so my main question is those who have wind generators, do they work well?  

Ralph Johnstone

Ralph Johnstone

fred1diver said: I don’t know if that would be sufficient for my boat, Click to expand

Rich Stidger

Rich Stidger

Well, here is my 2 cents worth. And I think worth every penny too! 10-12 years ago I put a 400W Air-X on my h40.5. My goal was to top off my house batteries after I left with my boat on a mooring, so that I would not have to run my genset excessively before I left. This goal was met very well. I could leave my batteries at maybe 85% SOC and they would easily top off in a few days. However there were no loads on the batteries when the boat was left on the mooring. No refrigeration; nothing. My location was in Narragansett Bay, RI, and the average wind was under 10kts. The wind would typically come up around 10am and blow at 12-16 kts until about 4pm. My 400W Air-X would start charging over 10kt. So on an average day I might get 4 hours of wind over 10kts. That is not a lot of charging in my location. Before considering a wind generator, you should determine the real wind speeds that you will actually see. Now I have been in winds of 25-30 kts and in those conditions the wind generator pushes out 20+ amps, but that is not the average. I would guess that the average number of amp-hours that my wind generator produces is about 20Ah per day. That is nowhere near enough for refrigeration, and it might not be quite enough for all of the other DC loads depending upon what else you are running. I think the first thing you need to do is to analyze how many Ah each load on your boat consumes in a day. Then you can have a good idea on what you can realistically supply from a wind generator. To do this, measure the current draw for each item and multiply by the number of hours you use it each day. Make up a table and tally the totals. This will give you the total daily power requirement. If you still think a wind generator will meet your needs, I would look at the 200W units that begin charging at a lower wind speed. The maximum power will be lower, but the time that the wind will be in a range to produce power will be longer. Of course if you have heavy winds every day for many hours, that could let you use a larger 400W generator. Back when I installed my Air-X, solar panels were very expensive and much less efficient than they are today. Today I would go with solar as opposed to a wind gen, given my experience and state of the technology today. But you said that you don't have room for solar panels, so maybe that option is out. But I would look closely and get creative with mounting. If you are giving up on refrigeration, a much smaller panel could supply all of your needs. And, BTW, solar is quiet. Wind generators, not so much. I hope this helps. NO refunds on the 2 cents......  

Helpful

fred1diver said: Hello everyone, another couple of questions for the hive mind. was looking at getting solar panels for my boat, but I simply don’t have the room for them. So I got to thinking about wind generators, I can get a 400w for under 400$cdn. I don’t know if that would be sufficient for my boat, I mainly want to keep the batteries full when away from dock, I am running an ice box refrigeration, lights and radio, not sure what my needs are in terms of watts. so my main question is those who have wind generators, do they work well? Click to expand

jssailem

My thoughts lean toward Solar. On average I would think you get more solar generation than wind generation. I had not thought about the noise element of wind. I have seen them on power boats, but every time the wind has been a light or non-existent breeze.  

For wind generators to be effective there needs to be a good breeze, around 12-15 knots. Check the specs. How much current is being produced at different wind speeds? They work well in the tropics in the tradewinds, I don't think Ottawa is in the trade winds. Solar is a better option. They work especially well when a big windless high pressure system settles in and they will provide some energy even when it is cloudy. The point @Ralph Johnstone was making is the size of the panels depends on the other charging methods and the amount of energy that is being used. For some folks 50 watts of solar serves them well, for others 300 or more watts is needed. For Ottawa and the Great Lakes, solar is a better choice than wind. The next question is how much solar is needed.  

Thanks everyone for all the great replies, I will have to figure out how much solar I need and where to install the panels, I have a rather long boom, almost to the backstay so it doesn’t leave much room, maybe if I raise the boom a bit  

just to give you a idea I had 300 watts of solar and by 11am my house bank would be fully charged. Also I would not need shore power from April to Nov.  

Be better off with solar panels and a lot quieter.  

Joe

Seems to me you might consider both solar and wind.  

dLj

It's been my understanding that it depends upon where you sail. Also that often when there is limited light, often there is more wind, and vice versa. If you are staying in one region, then you assess what kind of prevailing winds you have. How's that for a non-answer... dj  

Crusty Ol Salt

Crusty Ol Salt

I do not own a wind generator. The guy that owns the catamaran on the next pier over does. Our boats are separated by 75 to 100 ft. We were BSing one afternoon by my boat and I looked at him and said "Is that your generator making noise?" His response was "you should hear it when its really blowing" I am not sure if it is a maintenance issue or not. I occasionally watch the Okellys on YouTube. They converted from wind to solar because of the generator noise. I think my next upgrade will be solar.  

Don S/V ILLusion

Don S/V ILLusion

if you don’t have sufficient wind to drive a generator, you probably have the engine running.  

jon hansen

dLj said: It's been my understanding that it depends upon where you sail. Also that often when there is limited light, often there is more wind, and vice versa. If you are staying in one region, then you assess what kind of prevailing winds you have. How's that for a non-answer... dj Click to expand

NYSail

Not familiar with wind generation but I love my solar.... 400 watts. I run my refrig/freezer non stop during the summer with no issues. Battery bank is 580ah (480ah house / 6 v and 100ah starter / 12v). On the hook never have to run genset to charge. This summer we are ditching the slip and moving full time to our mooring as the boat now is self sufficient. Good Luck! Greg  

NYSail said: Not familiar with wind generation but I love my solar.... 400 watts. I run my refrig/freezer non stop during the summer with no issues. Battery bank is 580ah (480ah house / 6 v and 100ah starter / 12v). On the hook never have to run genset to charge. This summer we are ditching the slip and moving full time to our mooring as the boat now is self sufficient. Good Luck! Greg Click to expand

And I likewise thank them....... Unless we have a heat wave in which case we all close the hatches, fire up our gensets and turn on the a/c! Actually, there is little noise from the gensets besides the splash of water from the exhaust. Greg  

NYSail said: And I likewise thank them....... Unless we have a heat wave in which case we all close the hatches, fire up our gensets and turn on the a/c! Actually, there is little noise from the gensets besides the splash of water from the exhaust. Greg Click to expand
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Rooftop turbines aim to capture power in windy cities

Also: what is the glasgow declaration on sustainable tourism.

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Our planet is changing. So is our journalism. This weekly newsletter is part of a CBC News initiative entitled "Our Changing Planet" to show and explain the effects of climate change. Keep up with the latest news on our  Climate and Environment page .

Sign up here  to get this newsletter in your inbox every Thursday.

  • A global pledge to make travel more sustainable
  • How a former ski hill in southern Alberta became key to studying climate change

There's a reason they're called wind "farms" — because wind power is usually generated in rural areas, using turbines with massive blades that are tall and noisy. 

That design doesn't really work in cities, where densely packed buildings tend to block and redirect wind, making it gusty and variable in speed and direction, says Ted Stathopolous, an engineering professor at Concordia University in Montreal who studies the effects of wind on buildings.

That poses a challenge for traditional turbines, which are designed to harness wind travelling horizontally at relatively high speeds in a consistent direction.

Yet cities are home to millions of people who use power, and Stathopoulos says harnessing local wind could provide resilience when storms take down transmission lines.

So far, tests of urban wind turbines have failed to generate much power, thus discouraging investment. But Stathopoulos says relatively little has been done to optimize urban locations to generate wind power. "There is a lot of potential for development there."

A number of companies are trying to take advantage of that with innovative designs. Here's a look at a few.

Flower Turbines , based in New York City, creates vertical wind turbines that look like large, skinny tulips (see gif above). They're designed to be installed on the ground or on a flat roof. The vertical-axis turbines can start generating power at low wind speeds of just 0.7 metres per second, compared to 3.5 m/s (or 12.6 km/h) for traditional wind turbines. The company sells one- and three-metre-high models in the U.S and Europe. (See video here .)

PowerNEST  (see gif below), made by IBIS Power in Eindhoven, the Netherlands, is a rooftop unit that integrates wind and solar in what the company describes as a "flowing kinetic sculpture." It uses fins on the edges of the rectangular frame to direct air to vertical turbines that sit underneath a roof of solar panels. The wind helps cool the panels and increase their efficiency. The company says the system can capture six to 10 times more electricity than rooftop solar panels alone. So far, the company has created a handful of demonstration projects in the Netherlands. (See video here .)

Aeromine Technologies , based in Houston, has a technology with no external blades, so it isn't really a turbine. Instead, it captures air between stationary, hollow airfoils (similar to those used to stabilize race cars) and funnels it to a partially enclosed propeller underneath. The company says this harnesses and amplifies building airflow in wind speeds as low as 2 m/s (or 8 km/h), while also allowing the unit to generate power at high wind speeds in "most extreme weather conditions." The company has a pilot running in the U.S., and says it will be announcing several pilots in Canada later this month.

O-Wind , made by O-Innovations in Lancaster, U.K., was featured in one of What On Earth? 's first issues, in 2018 . Its inventors won the International James Dyson Award that year for a soccer ball-sized prototype designed to harvest wind from any direction when mounted on the side or roof of a building. Since then, they have honed and patented the design and produced a larger functional prototype. They have received grant funding to install pilots in urban areas.

There has been at least one Canadian design: RidgeBlade , made by Kingston, Ont.-based The Power Collective. (As of January 2023, CBC News has been unable to reach the company; the phone and email listed on its website have been disconnected.) The RidgeBlade was designed to use the existing surface of a pitched roof to focus wind and boost its speed as it travels through turbines along the roof's ridge. "Placing the turbine in this high-flow area means that up to nine times the energy is available to it compared to a [traditional horizontal-axis wind turbine] system," the company said on its website, which offers residential and commercial modular units for sale.

—  Emily Chung

Reader feedback

In response to Molly Segal's piece on the growing interest in solar power generation in Alberta , Brian Collinson wrote:

"As an Alberta native who left at the very height of the oil boom, I was fascinated by this account of how solar power has taken off in my province of birth. It's an intriguing example of how, if you create the right conditions, renewables can flourish. I hope legislators and regulators in other provinces and territories are taking note!"

Write us at   [email protected] .

Old issues of what on earth are right here ..

CBC News has a dedicated climate page, which can be found here .

Also, check out our radio show and podcast. This week, we hear about a brand new climate change course that will soon be mandatory for all Arts students at the University of New Brunswick.  What On Earth airs on Sundays at 11 a.m. ET, 11:30 a.m. in Newfoundland and Labrador. Subscribe on your favourite podcast app or hear it on demand at CBC Listen .

The Big Picture:  A pledge to travel more responsibly

In these dreary days of winter, thoughts inevitably turn to warmer climes. But given the environmental cost of flying and visiting increasingly precarious destinations, there is growing awareness that something needs to be done to make travel more sustainable.

One of the legacies of the COP26 climate summit in 2021 was the Glasgow Declaration on Climate Action in Tourism, an initiative meant to decarbonize the tourism sector and protect ecosystems. As the declaration's founding document states, "rebalancing our relationship with nature is critical to regenerating both its ecological health and our personal, social and economic well-being."

So, who has signed on? Tourism boards, tour operators and travel agents, mainly, including Destination Québec Cité and Turisme de Barcelona (see photo below) and brands like Expedia and Contiki. At this time, the declaration has 700 signatories who have committed to implementing climate action plans within a year of signing. 

Those initiatives can include helping restore natural habitats and using more renewable energy in their operations. The goal of the Glasgow declaration was to urge travel organizations to commit, as a united sector, to aligning with broader UN ambitions to make the world net-zero by 2050. But as with many climate pledges in the travel sector, this one is still voluntary.

Tourists walk through Barcelona.

Hot and bothered: Provocative ideas from around the web

Here's some good news about a successful global environmental agreement: the ozone layer will have fully recovered in most of the world by 2040 , a UN assessment has found.

Floating solar farms are already popular on lakes around the world. Now, scientists and engineers are trying to develop solar panels that work in rough water, so they can float on the ocean .

Is your food causing environmental destruction? In Europe, this may soon be less of a worry. The European Union has agreed on a landmark law to prevent companies from selling beef, coffee and a handful of other commodities in the EU if they're grown on land where forests were recently cleared .

Freetown, the capital of the African country of Sierra Leone, has appointed its first chief heat officer to help it cope with rising temperatures and other climate-related changes.

How a former ski hill in southern Alberta has become key to studying climate change

Researchers on a mountain tweak equipment to measure snowfall.

Virtually every snowflake that falls on Fortress Mountain in Alberta's Kananaskis region is recorded and watched.

"We're in a time when we get extreme weather and a changing climate," said John Pomeroy, director of the University of Saskatchewan's centre for hydrology. So "we try to follow every drop of water, every flake of snow, and see where it's going."

The centre's Coldwater laboratory has outfitted this former ski area in the Alberta Rockies with instruments placed on ridges, glaciers, valleys and creeks. The data collected here is being used to form new and more reliable climate prediction models for flood, drought and water supply forecasting. 

Nowadays, these models are based on physics rather than historic observations. 

"If you have a model that's based on physics, you can throw at it a weather pattern or a climatic condition that we've never seen and the laws of physics still hold," Pomeroy said. 

Research technician Kieran Lehan says his main role is managing 35 hydrometric stations — not just on Fortress Mountain, but in other parts of Kananaskis and the Icefields Parkway. It's often a case of figuring out how to keep stations and sensors running through freezing temperatures. 

"When you have this many stations and this many sensors … things just go wrong, especially in the winter," Lehan said. "I have no shortage of work."

If temperatures dip low enough, batteries at some stations need to be swapped out. And that's a heavy lift: a camping cooler full of car batteries needs to be dragged to the site and buried in deep snow as a backup if wind and solar power fail.

But data isn't just collected from the ground. Madison Harasyn, who is a research technician, pilots drones equipped with various sensors, including a Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR) sensor.

"We do take snow surveys over different locations in the Fortress Basin just to verify snow depth and density in those areas," Harasyn said. "It's basically like taking a million samples of snow depth over the fortress basin in one day versus … going and doing it yourself and then disrupting the snow as well while physically measuring it."

At every station, Pomeroy has a laundry list of ongoing experiments as well as discoveries researchers with the centre for hydrology and experts from other institutions have made here.

Discoveries like how the tree line in Kananaskis is creeping higher. Trees hold snow in place, but the snow that shrouds the tops of trees and is caught in branches often evaporates into the atmosphere — never making it down the streams as meltwater.

Pomeroy said they've learned how avalanches transport snow into lower elevations where nice, slow-melting reservoirs are created. He also pointed out a lake that's empty in winter but full in spring. Pomeroy said it's not fed by a stream, but from groundwater stored inside a mountain.

All of these discoveries mean more understanding, and more data to plug into the complex formulas the Coldwater lab develops to create forecasting models and shares openly with governments here in Canada and across the world.

With new technology, like supercomputers, Pomeroy said scientists are now able to manage complex calculations quickly. 

"There will be more floods in the future and hopefully we'll be able to predict them better than we have in the past."

— Helen Pike

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Corrections

  • A previous version of this story stated that the Carbon Offsetting and Reduction Scheme for International Aviation (CORSIA) was comparable to the Glasgow Declaration on Climate Action in Tourism in terms of its voluntary nature. This is not the case. Jan 13, 2023 10:02 AM ET

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  • Previous Article
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  • I. INTRODUCTION
  • A. Definition of a hybrid power park
  • B. Aim of this review
  • C. Outline of work
  • II. TEMPORAL VARIABILITY CHARACTERISTICS
  • A. Wind variability
  • B. Solar variability
  • III. WIND ENERGY MODELING
  • A. Wind resource modeling
  • B. Wind power modeling
  • IV. SOLAR ENERGY MODELING
  • A. Solar resource modeling
  • B. PV power modeling
  • V. HYBRID POWER PARK MODELING
  • A. Correlation between resources
  • B. Benefits from correlation
  • C. Tower and blade shading
  • D. Optimal sizing
  • E. Control strategies
  • F. Research opportunities
  • VI. DISCUSSION
  • VII. CONCLUSIONS
  • AUTHORS' CONTRIBUTIONS
  • ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
  • DATA AVAILABILITY

Review on power-production modeling of hybrid wind and PV power parks

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Oskar Lindberg , Johan Arnqvist , Joakim Munkhammar , David Lingfors; Review on power-production modeling of hybrid wind and PV power parks. J. Renewable Sustainable Energy 1 July 2021; 13 (4): 042702. https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0056201

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The interest for co-located wind and solar photovoltaic (PV) parks, also known as hybrid power parks (HPPs), is increasing both in industry and in the scientific community. Co-locating wind and PV can lead to synergies in power production, infrastructure, and land usage, which may lower the overall plant cost compared to single technology systems. This review paper summarizes the existing research on power output modeling related to utility-scale HPPs and identifies knowledge-gaps. The main literature shows that there is a need for improved modeling methodologies accounting for the variability of the combined power production. There is potential for immediate improvement by combining state-of-the-art models that have been developed in separate fields and harmonizing the vocabulary across the different research fields. The study also shows that the total number of peer reviewed studies on utility-scale HPPs is limited and further research, in particular comparative studies, is needed to give a comprehensive view of the benefits and challenges of combining technologies. Other areas such as physical design, control strategies, market participation, and quantification of the possible synergies for physical implementation of HPPs also need to be studied further.

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The 9 Best Solar-Powered Generators to Keep Your Camping Gear and Home Running

These solar-powered portable power stations keep your batteries full during power outages and off-grid campouts.

These days, gas-powered generators aren’t the only option for charging on the go. Solar-powered generators—also called portable power stations—are a growing sector of the power market. I started using these a few years ago and was thrilled with having a clean, efficient charging system that doesn't roar or burn through gas.

Larger units can also provide peace of mind in areas where power outages are a concern. Depending on output, many of these portable power stations can sustain household appliances the way a gas generator would. Run out of juice? Attach a few solar panels and you’ll start recharging the power station immediately— no emergency fuel run necessary.

While plenty of people I know use these to power home appliances, my own use is mainly focused on smaller units. I keep a Goal Zero Yeti 200X in my car camping bin, and have used Jackery’s fast-charging Explorer 240 as a backup when power might be unreliable. I’m usually looking to keep my phone, headlamp, and headphones charged, but I’ve used power banks to heat water in an electric kettle, grind coffee, and power my laptop during remote work sessions.

My primary concerns are portability and convenience, which means I appreciate fast wall and solar charging, and since I always like to have a backup, I seek out units that don’t drain power in storage. Ease of use is also important—is the display easy to read? Does it make sense on the screen? Bonus points if I can tell how much power is available via a quick glance. In the past few years, these criteria have become easier to meet. There are now plenty of compact, affordable units that have better charging capabilities than before. Think of these as giant versions of battery power banks used to charge phones during travel or when outlets are scarce.

Most power stations can be charged in a wall outlet, a vehicle's 12-volt port, or with solar panels (often sold separately). Once the charging station is juiced up, you can charge battery-powered gadgets on the go, or keep lights or appliances running off-grid with the bigger, higher-powered models. Each unit holds a certain capacity for charging devices, measured in watt hours, or Wh.

In the future, I’d love to see the weight-to-power ratio continue to progress, with lighter, more portable units that don’t skimp on charging capabilities. I’m also somewhat surprised that we don’t see more advanced screen options on most units, with most currently only offering a fairly basic LCD readout. It gets the job done, but some of the readouts and stats can be confusing to toggle through.

For these picks, I took into consideration my own testing and consulting, charging capacity, ease of use, weight, and what different people might need them for. In the most recent update, Popular Mechanics test editor Brad Ford was instrumental in providing additional input for larger-capacity usage cases.

Finally, “solar-powered” doesn’t mean you need the sun to charge these power stations. They all have the capability to charge with solar panels, but almost all of them can charge in an AC wall outlet or with a 12-volt vehicle port.

The Best Solar-Powered Generators

  • Best Overall: Jackery Explorer 1000 Portable Power Station
  • Largest Capacity: Bluetti AC200MAX Expandable Power Station
  • Best Portable Option: Goal Zero Yeti 200X Solar Generator
  • Best Budget-Friendly Option: Jackery Explorer 240 Portable Power Station
  • Most Versatile: Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Solar Generator
The Expert: I have been traveling in the outdoors for as long as I can remember, and I’ve spent the past decade reviewing camping gear, overlanding items, and other outdoor equipment. I take multiple extended car-camping trips each year with a portable, convenient setup that includes barely more than a bin of car-camping goods, a piece of memory foam, and the topper on my truck.Since I’m usually working while I’m on the road, my main charging needs are personal devices like a phone, laptop, and headlamp. My go-to portable power solutions are typically mid-range in size and capacity, as I don’t need a ton of charging on the road like someone powering the lights in a trailer or RV would need. My go-to portable power solutions are typically mid-range in size and capacity, as I don’t need a ton of charging on the road like someone powering the lights in a trailer or RV would need. For this update, I consulted with the Popular Mechanics in-house test team, with input from test editor Brad Ford for larger devices and at-home usage.

What to Consider

What is a solar generator.

In some ways, solar generators are misnamed. “Technically, a PV (photovoltaic) panel—or solar panel—is what generates power,” says Ford. “The problem is that sunlight varies throughout the day, so voltage fluctuates and there is no sunlight available at night.” This means that a battery is technically needed to store power, and a power inverter is needed to convert and provide constant alternating current (AC) used for most electrical devices.

The battery and inverter combine in one unit and become a power station. Solar panels without a power station are not particularly useful, so the term “solar generator” typically refers to both the panels and the station used in conjunction.

What Size and How Much Capacity Do You Need?

One of the main differences in these models is how much charging “juice” they can store, referenced in watt-hours. Watt-hours are a measure of a unit of energy (watts) that can flow over time (hours). Consider the electronics you plan to pack or will need to keep charged, and how much juice you’ll need for each one. This can also pertain to estimating generator size for potential home back-up.

For instance, running a refrigerator will take a lot more power than recharging your phone or powering your lights. Consider making a list of the items you’ll need to charge or power, and checking how much each one needs to run. From there, consider how much time you’ll need to run them, and how long the solar-powered generator will take to recharge once it is depleted.

Note that solar panel specs list the highest capacity the panel is capable of, in the perfect conditions—it is not uncommon to see only 50% to 75% of the watts a panel is listed for.

Charging Capacity

This goes hand in hand with your needs. Once you figure out what you’ll be charging or running with your power station, you can start comparing capacities per full charge or hour of use on each unit. The price goes up as the capacity increases, but most people heading out for an off-grid weekend will want at least around 40 amp-hours, or 500 watt-hours.

If you’re looking for a home-powering backup for power outages, look for a model with at least 3,000Wh, and I recommend 500 watts (minimum) of solar panels for recharging. Keep in mind that solar panels are not usually included with the unit, and I recommend buying both at the same time for maximum efficiency in charging.

I listed the watt hours as “Wh” in the specs for each model for easier comparison.

Portability

While weight and size don’t directly correlate to the technicalities of power banks, they impact the convenience of each model. Many camping and overlanding setups have limited space, so the more compact models likely have a higher appeal as a result.

That said, most units weigh at least 10 pounds, and the weight and size increase quickly with greater capacities. Before purchasing, consider where you plan to store the power bank, and the space in your vehicle or camper where it will live while you’re on the road. If you plan to use this power bank solely as a home backup option, portability will matter less, but consider how much effort it will take to move it around within your home or in your outdoor space.

How We Selected

I’m a seasonal car camper. This means I take off for base-camping trips in spring and fall when the deep wilderness is hard to access here in Montana. I’ve spent the last few seasons testing a variety of solar-powered generators to power my smaller items, like phones, headphones, small battery packs, speakers, headlamps, and sometimes my laptop. Since my car camping setup is low-tech (no portable fridge to be found), I’ve rarely needed anything bigger than 300 Wh, or the equivalent of about 25 phone charges. I have tested larger models for the express purpose of gear trials, however.

My testing ranged from a quick overnight to more than a week on the road, and included charging power banks in AC outlets, in the 12V outlet in my truck on road trips, and with solar panels. I compared charging capacity, weight, power input, and how easy each unit is to use and transport. For the ones I didn’t personally test, I talked to overlanding experts and car campers, looking for a range of models that will suit everyone from users with less charging needs (like myself) to people looking for a backup for household appliances and to power their camper appliances.

It’s all about compromise, which means balancing charging capacity with weight and price. The heavier models with lower charging capacities and longer recharge times didn’t make the cut, and I did my best to balance the criteria for a variety of models that suit different needs. Price typically doesn’t factor into my picks, though I did list a few smaller, more affordable models.

Jackery Explorer 1000 Portable Power Station

Explorer 1000 Portable Power Station

This is a fan favorite for car campers, remote workers, and overlanders. I used it on a media trip where we had to keep multiple camera batteries charged during a week-long outing. It has a max capacity of 1,002 watt-hours, which is lower than you'll find with others on this list, but can actually power items for longer than some higher-capacity models. This won’t be your best bet for powering larger appliances, but it’s an ideal power station for smaller items and off-grid camping.

We charged our photographer’s camera batteries while we were charging the power bank on solar power (it was a very sunny winter day), which proved effective and efficient.

This model has eight ports, including two AC outlets, two USB-C ports, a 12-volt car port, and two standard USB-A outlets. It can charge a typical laptop eight times or power a small refrigerator or powered cooler for over 15 hours.

The Jackery Explorer 1000 can be charged with solar panels or a 12-volt outlet in your vehicle while you’re on the move, and we did both on our trip. It has fairly standard charging times, with 11.5 hours in a car outlet, 6.5 hours for solar panels, and just 5.5 hours to fully charge in a wall outlet. I did find this somewhat hard to use after dark, and had to use my phone flashlight to see the sides of the power bank that didn’t have lights. Otherwise, very few complaints.

Bluetti AC200MAX Expandable Power Station

AC200MAX Expandable Power Station

For home backup, Bluetti’s AC200MAX is a powerful solar generator that allows you to stay off-grid while keeping appliances running. The 2,048 watt-hours battery capacity and 2,200-watt power output can handle everything from a refrigerator to keeping travel trailer lights on. One of the key features is the expandable capacity—increasing the capacity to more than 8,000 total watt-hours—by connecting the power station to additional batteries. The batteries are sold separately, but for people concerned about keeping appliances running in the event of a power outage, it’s worth the extra expense for peace of mind.

Charge time in an AC outlet can take up to six hours, but dual charging capabilities mean in the right conditions, you can have this unit fully charged in two hours by using a solar panel in conjunction with grid charging—increasing input from 900 Wh to 1400 Wh. The station has 16 charging ports, including wireless charging pads, AC, USB-A, USB-C, and 12-volt ports for both car and RV charging.

Goal Zero Yeti 200X Solar Generator

Yeti 200X Solar Generator

This is the power bank I take on shorter trips where I’ll be working remotely, but won’t have 100% reliable access to power outlets. It weighs just 5 pounds and fits in my car camping bin, and I can also charge it using the 12V outlet in 8 hours, or halfway in just a few hours. It’s easy to plug in for drives between locations, and is also a solid backup to leave charged in a to-go bin in the chance you wind up somewhere without accessible power.

I use this for items like my phone, a small speaker, and headphones, but I’ve also powered my laptop on it for two full power cycles. I’d recommend this for anyone looking for a portable, compact generator for charging phones, portable speakers, headlamps, cameras, and earbuds… basically anything where you won’t need to be powering an RV or refrigerator.

The Yeti 200X charges fully in 8 hours via the 12-volt car charging port, and I’ve charged it fully in 3 hours with solar panels on a sunny day. It only has four ports—a 12-volt outlet, an AC port, and two USB ports—but it will suffice for most quick needs. Keep an eye on the charging capacity after a few seasons. I have started to notice it diminish in the past year.

Jackery Explorer 240 Portable Power Station

Explorer 240 Portable Power Station

Most of my needs are for charging smaller items… I don’t own a camper or RV, and I don’t need to power a refrigerator out in the wild. It’s hard to say what’s more relevant for outdoors people, but for those who have low-maintenance car camping setups like myself, this 240WH power station is probably all you need.

This is reasonably priced, weighs just over 6.5 pounds, and is reliable for its cost. I’d recommend this for people heading out for an overnight or weekend but want to keep lower-powered devices charged. It’s also a great backup to leave stashed in a vehicle for emergencies, as it doesn’t take up too much space. I was surprised that you need to push the buttons to activate the charging (I had assumed I could just plug something into the port and it would start charging), but double-check that your gear (or the unit) is actually charging.

The handle is comfortable to carry, and since this is such a small power bank, the top handle is sufficient for moving it around. I’ve been able to fully charge this with the Jackery SolarSaga 60W solar panel in just under 5 hours, which is pretty rad for a power bank that can charge an iPhone 24 times.

The Explorer 240 can charge five devices at once, with a USB-C port, two USB-A ports, and a 100-watt AC outlet. It’s one of the most portable on this list, and is also super convenient for fast charging for an overnight trip.

Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Solar Generator

Yeti 1500X Solar Generator

Optimized for campers who spend extended periods of time off-grid, this high-powered generator has a 600-watt input, allowing it to fully charge in just a few hours with the right equipment. This model will run a full camper or serve as a reliable backup for home power, and the simple interface and charging adapters add to its appeal.

I love the adaptability of this unit, which comes with additional add-ons like the Home Integration Kit, which allows people to hook it up to an in-house circuit breaker. It also has something the brand calls the “Expansion Module,” which gives it the ability to charge it via your vehicle’s alternator on the road. This is a solid all-around pick for anyone who doesn’t want to be caught off-guard with power needs and wants a few ways to make sure the power bank stays charged.

This is one of the best-selling power stations on the market, with enough juice to run a full-size fridge for more than 28 hours and charge a smartphone 127 times. It has over 1,500 watt-hours of capacity, making it a stellar option for running a camper. It can be recharged in anywhere from six to 14 hours in a wall charger, depending on what gear you have.

This model comes with a few different options for solar panels—just be sure to read the specs and charging time before deciding which one to get. The Goal Zero’s 100-watt solar panel takes roughly 18 to 36 hours to recharge the power station, depending on conditions.

Anker SOLIX F2000 Generator

SOLIX F2000 Generator

The heavy-duty wheels and telescoping handle on Anker’s SOLIX F2000 are easy to use, allow you to stand upright when pulling, and are a dream for people who regularly find themselves moving their power station around, whether it’s at a campsite or to different parts of the house during a power outage.

Along with convenience, this generator is a powerhouse, and can easily keep your refrigerator running, a heater for greenhouses (yes, we received questions about this) and your RV bright and warm.

We’re also impressed with Anker’s app that allows us to check the charging status or power being generated without continually going outside to check. The app also lets you turn power to the AC and USB ports on and off remotely, keeping tabs on how much energy is being utilized.

The SOLIX F2000 has 12 ports, including two car ports, an RV-specific outlet, four AC ports, three USB-C charging ports, and two for USB-A. In sunny conditions and moderate temperatures, this can recharge with a 200-watt solar panel in just a few hours, and can support up to 1,000 watts of solar input.

EcoFlow Delta Portable Power Station

Delta Portable Power Station

Falling right in the sweet spot of weight, this power bank is lighter for its power than the Yeti 1500X, and it stays secure when strapped down in a moving vehicle or camper. The EcoFlow Delta has the most ports (13!) out of any power station on this list, which means more charging efficiency and easier tracking of charge drain, perfect if you need to power and charge several devices in a short amount of time.

This is a beefy generator. With 1,800 watts of total output and over 1,200 watt hours, this is powerful enough to charge anything you would bring overlanding or camping. It could even power up an electric vehicle if you get stuck with no charging station in sight.

Despite the larger capacity, this model can be charged with four 100-watt solar panels in just four hours with optimum conditions, and eight hours in most conditions—which I find impressively fast for a power station of this size. It charges fast in a standard wall AC outlet as well, going from zero to 80-percent in just an hour. This is on the heavier side, but with that much power and so many charging options, it can be worth it for a one-and-done power setup.

Goal Zero Yeti 500

Yeti 500

The sixth iteration of Goal Zero’s Goldilocks-sized power station, the Yeti 500 has a similar capacity and capabilities as the previous model, the Yeti 500 X. This is a fantastic middle ground for anyone looking for an off-grid weekend, or who might not need to power appliances during an extended outage, but who wants peace of mind in case of emergencies.

The 500W AC power doubles to 1000W with the surge mode, and has enough power to run a refrigerator, lights in a camper, and small kitchen appliances, so even with a power outage, you can still have your morning coffee and keep your perishable items safe.

Goal Zero’s entire line is quite rugged, built for outside and travel use without the stress of fragile items. The Yeti 500 is highly water resistant with a rating of IPX4, and is shock proof and can maintain power output (though less efficiently) at below-zero temperatures.

This also has a faster charging time compared to previous models, and can fully charge in less than an hour and a half in a standard AC outlet, though solar panel charging will take around three hours with a 200W panel.

Yoshino B2000 Solid State Solar Generator

B2000 Solid State Solar Generator

Tested and Reviewed by Brad Ford

(Note: this model is available with two or three solar panels. We only tested it with one, so I’m doubling my findings with respect to solar observations, to align with performance for two panels)

Yoshino’s B2000 Solar Generator is different from virtually any other on the market, in that it utilizes a solid state battery. This means the electrolyte in the battery is solid, rather than a liquid. There are a couple advantages of a solid electrolyte—First, it has a higher energy density, allowing the battery size/weight to be reduced. Second, solid electrolytes are more stable and won’t leak. Regarding weight, the B2000 is both light and compact for its capacity.

We tested solar charging on a cloudless, winter day in Northeast, PA. In the bright, mid-day sun, using one portable 200-watt panel, we topped out at 181 watts input. With two panels, that would translate to 362 watts and an estimated charge time between three and four hours. Over the course of five hours, we repositioned the panel twice, to keep optimal alignment with the sun as input slowly dropped to 70-watts for the one panel.

On average we were able to charge the battery at about 10% per hour, which is pretty respectable for portable panels. Adding a second panel doubles the watts, and cuts charging time in half.

The power station itself performed well when tested running a 21-cubic foot, full size refrigerator. We were able to get an impressive 18 hours and 8 minutes of run time, from 100% charge, until the B2000 shut down. And with Wi-Fi connectivity, we were able to monitor the power usage remotely with Yoshino’s app, on a smartphone.

We also tested the B2000, using a constant load of 470-watts which it ran for 2 hours and 24 minutes. For reference, we used four 60-watt light bulbs, an oscillating fan, and a small personal heater to reach 470-watts. The unit has two USB-C ports, two USB-A ports, and a wireless charging pad on top.

The B2000 features multiple charging options. Aside from solar, it can also be charged via a 120-volt AC outlet, or 12-volt DC car adapter—included.

Charging Tips to Keep Your Solar-Powered Generator Running From Expert Maggie Slepian

a cell phone charing on a solar generator

What are your priorities when choosing a solar-powered generator?

I am a low-maintenance camper, and most of my background is in lightweight backcountry travel. That means I prioritize space-saving and ease-of-use, so my go-to power banks have between 250 to 600 watt hours, and weigh less than 15 pounds.

This is perfect for a weekend trip, with the on-the-go (car or solar) charging capabilities to put my mind at ease for longer trips. Mostly I’m charging small items, so one charge lasts a long time. However, plenty of people in the van-life and remote-work world are powering their RVs and vans, and relying on multiple laptop charges. For that, I’d recommend one of the larger units.

What can a solar-powered generator charge and power?

A solar-powered generator can charge and run almost anything that requires power—it just depends on the capacity. These generators can charge power tools in the shop, laptops for remote work, and personal devices like bluetooth headphones and speakers .

A solar-powered generator with a higher power capacity can even power household appliances in the event of a power outage. And the fact that these are solar-compatible means you aren’t reliant on the electrical grid to recharge them.

What is the best way to charge a generator?

Every unit on our list has multiple charging options, including wall (AC outlet), car (12-volt), and solar. Each input method charges your unit at a different speed, and solar also depends on the conditions.

I try to charge up my power banks whenever I can, so I’m never caught off guard trying to leave on a trip with a dying power bank. If this happens (which it has), I’ll charge it in my vehicle's 12-volt port while I’m driving, though this is often slower than solar or a wall unit.

Solar power is the most sustainable and typically fastest way to power these— just be sure you have enough wattage in the solar panels to make it effective. I recommend keeping the generator stored with at least an 80 percent charge, and unplug them once they’re fully charged—keeping them plugged in longer than necessary can degrade the battery.

Most units will have a simple readout display showing the remaining battery charge, and it’s a good practice not to allow your battery pack to get below 20 percent.

Headshot of Maggie Slepian

Maggie Slepian is a full-time freelance writer in the outdoor industry and has tested gear professionally for almost ten years—she is an avid backpacker, trail runner, bikepacker, and horseback rider and has thru-hiked thousands of miles on the Appalachian, Colorado, and Ouachita trails, along with backcountry travel on terrain including coastal trails, the desert, and high alpine peaks. Maggie has written for New York Magazine, Huffington Post, REI, and Outside. She is a columnist with Backpacker Magazine and is the co-founder of BackpackingRoutes.com. Contact her at MaggieSlepian.com.

Headshot of Bradley Ford

Brad Ford has spent most of his life using tools to fix, build, or make things. Growing up he worked on a farm, where he learned to weld, repair, and paint equipment. From the farm he went to work at a classic car dealer, repairing and servicing Rolls Royces, Bentleys, and Jaguars. Today, when he's not testing tools or writing for Popular Mechanics, he's busy keeping up with the projects at his old farmhouse in eastern Pennsylvania.

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Finding Fun in Michigan & Beyond

Michigan Wind Farm Map (2023)

Michigan Wind Farm Map

The Michigan Wind Farm Map offers current, proposed, deferred, or canceled projects in Michigan. Information is taken from public and government reports from the Michigan Public Services Commission. This site is updated as information becomes available.

The Great Lakes Map of Wind Farms in Michigan

Map and Data of Wind Turbines in Michigan last updated March 18, 2023

The Upper Thumb & Mid Michigan Leads in Renewable Energy

The first wind turbine installed in the Upper Thumb was at Laker Elementary School near Pigeon in 2005. 1

The first industrial wind farms were Harvest Wind near Elkton and Michigan Wind 1 near Ubly. Both came online in 2008. 1

Michigan’s Thumb (Huron, Sanilac, Tuscola) currently has 836 operating turbines producing 1584 MW of electricity. 59% of the total operating in the state. 7

Huron County has the largest installed wind energy base in the Great Lakes region, with 472 active wind turbines. 7

The Upper Thumb region hosts a high-capacity, 140-mile electric transmission line.  This project is called the Thumb Loop, capable of carrying electricity or up to 2,800 wind turbines.  2 

Gratiot Farms Wind Project went online on December 16, 2020, and featured 60 turbines with a 150-megawatt capacity, enough to power about 58,000 residents.

As of August 2021, Michigan has an installed operational capacity of 3,102 MW. 7

Gratiot County has the second-largest installed base of wind turbines in Michigan. (420) When the new Consumers Energy Wind Farm is completed, it will leave only four of the county’s 16 townships, Arcada, Elba, Seville, and Sumner townships, without a wind park. 8

Michigan Wind Energy Operational Stats

Michigan Wind Farm Map

As of August 2021, Michigan has a total of 1,581 operational turbines producing 3,102 MW. Plans underway show a total of 1,658 turbines with 3,527 MW operational at the end of 2021. Source : Michigan Public Services Commission

The as of May 2020, the Michigan Public Services Commission is currently tracking progress on 33 wind farm projects. Source: Michigan Public Services Commission

In February 2019, there was a total of 3,000 MW attributed to renewable energy production. 69% was wind energy followed by Hydroelectric (12%), Biomass (7%), Landfill gas (5%), Solar (4%), and Municipal solid waste (3%) – Source: Report on the Implementation and Cost Effectiveness of the P.A. 295 Renewable Energy Standard – February 15, 2019

In 2017 11.3% of all electricity produced in Michigan was generated by renewable. – Source: Report on the Implementation and Cost Effectiveness of the P.A. 295 Renewable Energy Standard – February 15, 2019

As of April 2020, Michigan has an Installed Wind Capacity of 2,684 MW. Source : American Wind Energy Association , USGS

In 2015 all of Michigan’s electric providers met – or exceeded – the 10 percent renewable energy standard set by the Michigan legislature.

Michigan’s new renewable standard will increase to 12.5 percent in 2019 and 2020 and 15 percent in 2021, as required by Public Act 342. A goal of 35% by 2025. Source: Report on the Implementation and Cost Effectiveness of the P.A. 295 Renewable Energy Standard – February 15, 2019

As of April 2020, Michigan ranks 12th in the nation for installed wind turbines. Source: American Wind Energy Association

DTE Energy owns and operates 18 wind parks and 31 solar farms that will produce more than 1,760 megawatts of energy, enough to power 670,000 homes.

Consumers Energy owns 3 and operates 18 solar farms. The company has plans to add nearly 8,000 MW of solar, including approximately 1,100 MW through 2024.

Mid-Michigan’s Isabella l and Isabella ll are Michigan’s largest wind parks.

As of April 2020, wind energy has created between 4,000-5,000 jobs in Michigan. Source: American Wind Energy Association

There are at least 27 manufacturing facilities in Michigan producing components for the wind industry. Source: American Wind Energy Association

Michigan’s Thumb’s highest wind speeds occur from September through April, averaging 12.4 miles per hour. The summer months from April through September are calmer, with an average hourly wind speed of 9.1 miles per hour.

Approximately $4.2 billion has been invested in wind energy projects in the state of Michigan. Source: American Wind Energy Association

While Michigan’s Thumb region leads the Great Lakes area with over 1368 MW of capacity, the latest completed projects in Mid-Michigan Gratiot County will host 400 turbines with 823.8 MW of capacity.

Top 5 Wind Counties in Michigan

The following chart represents the top five counties in Michigan with the most wind turbines. In August 2021, Gratiot and Isabella counties overtook Huron in terms of the most output capacity. However, Huron county remains the leader with the most installed wind turbines in operation.

Locate Michigan Wind Farms Near You

Michigan Wind Farm Map

Currently, there are no ongoing tours available to casual visitors. However, during special events like Cheeseburger in Caseville or the Harbor Beach Mariners Festival , DTE has been known to host tours. Check the event directory for potential tours in the Upper Thumb.

Detailed Michigan Wind Farm Pages

Specific details for each wind farm in the greater Thumb and Michigan area can be found in the links below.

  • Apple Blossom Wind Farm
  • Beebe Community Wind Farm
  • Cross Winds Energy Parks (I, II, III)
  • Deerfield Wind Farm
  • Gratiot Wind Farms
  • Lake Winds Energy Park
  • Michigan Wind 1 
  • Michigan Wind 2
  • Pinnebog Wind Farm
  • Thumb Wind Park Sigel
  • Tuscola Bay Wind I
  • Crescent (Hillsdale)Wind Farm

Wind Energy Growth in the United States

U.S. Wind Capacity estimates up to 2020

The U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) expects that new U.S. wind capacity projects over the next year will be near the annual record level of additions last set in 2012. Wind capacity additions in the United States through June 2019 totaled 3.7 gigawatts (GW). Wind projects reported to EIA through surveys and on EIA’s Preliminary Monthly Electric Generator Inventory. Operators expect another 8.5 GW to come online by the end of 2019, with an additional 14.3 GW by 2020.

U.S. onshore wind capacity

The cumulative U.S. established onshore wind capacity exceeded 100 gigawatts (GW) as of the end of September 2019, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration’s (EIA) Preliminary Monthly Electric Generator Inventory. More than half of that amount has been installed since the beginning of 2012. The oldest wind turbines still operating in the United States came online as early as 1975.

Michigan No Longer Leads in Wind Energy

Top States for Wind Capacity 2020

By the end of September 2019, 41 states had at least one installed wind turbine. Texas had the most capacity installed, at 26.9 GW, followed by Iowa, Oklahoma, and Kansas. These four states accounted for half of the total U.S. installed wind capacity. It’s estimated that the United States would have about 122 GW of wind capacity by the end of 2020.

FAQs – Frequently Asked Questions About Wind Farms

Mla citation for this story.

Hardy, Michael. (2022a, February 18). Michigan Wind Farm Map (2022) • Active And Planned Wind Projects . Thumbwind Publications. https://thumbwind.com/michigan-wind-farm-map/

Related Michigan Wind Farms Reading

  • Huron Continues to Lead in Wind Incidents in 2017 – 2017 data obtained from Caithness Windfarm Information Forum, a global incident collection group in the UK showed that since 1990, Huron County continues to lead Michigan in terms of wind farm accidents and incidents.
  • Michigan Competitive in Wind Production, But Future Limited – Over the past twenty years, the Great Lakes region has been steadily increasing the number of new wind projects and wind energy output. Now that pace looks to have slowed with more local communities placing acting tighter zoning control over industrial wind development. Se our map of wind turbines in Michigan for details.
  • Michigan Wind Farm Accidents – Publicly reported incidents regarding structural, environmental, personal injury, and transport incidents associated with industrial wind energy. Includes a map similar to the map of wind turbines in Michigan
  • What to Do During a Power Blackout – A Checklist – Looking ahead, we thought it was a good idea to provide a quick checklist for preparing for an extended power outage of at least three days. Extended power outages can occur after a severe storm with associated high winds. Here is the list of supplies and things to do to make the best of it.

Sources Consulted For Map of Wind Turbines in Michigan

  • AWEA U.S. Wind Industry Online Wind Projects and Manufacturing Facilities
  • Detroit Free Press
  • Weatherspark.com
  • “Map services and data are available from U.S. Wind Turbine Database, provided by the U.S. Geological Survey, American Wind Energy Association, and Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory”.
  • Michigan Public Services Commission – Report on the Implementation and Cost Effectiveness of the P.A. 295 Renewable Energy Standard February 15, 2019
  • Today in Energy – U.S. Energy Information Administration
  • Michigan Public Services Commission
  • Gratiot to get 6th wind farm

59 thoughts on “ Michigan Wind Farm Map (2023) ”

What about the Gratiot County wind farm?

I plan on an update in the Fall.

I have a cabin on lake Huron in Oscoda and can see a row of red lights on a clear night, Could it be possible these are wind farms in the thumb

Yes that’s exactly what your seeing. By next year you may see up to 200 more turbines. Thanks for your observation.

Do these red dots on the horizon have an effect on you?

From where we are at we look north toward you. There are frees behind us so we don’t see the turbines. I’m sure they are visible to you and at Tawas.

Do you know the location of the wind farms in the Consumers Energy Cross Winds Project planned for Huron County?

Crosswinds Energy Park will be located in Tuscola county in Michigan’s Thumb. Consumers Energy plans to locate the the wind turbines for 150 MW project in Columbia and Akron Townships.

Do you know the location of the wind farms in the Consumer’s Energy Cross Winds project planned for Huron County?

I work on the beach at Tawas Point State Park, on clear days I too see the turbines offshore, can you tell me the name of the wind farm that appears offshore in Tawas? I was assuming that what I see was near Caseville.

Your seeing the Echo Wind Park. DTE is currently working to get all 70 turbines online this year.

Thanks for the info. On the clearest of days you can just make out the tops of the turbines…if I remember right, the curvature of the earth allows us to see around 8 miles…it would be a fun trip to kiteboard out there and back.

I’m moving to Deford soon. I’m interested in employment, in support of the wind farms. Where can I find job postings?!

Sorry, I misunderstood the intent of your site. I thought you supported wind farms. Please feel free to NOT post my earlier comment. But, I would be interested in hearing more of your thoughts about how wind farms are spoiling The Thumb. Thanks!

Hi Jim, I neither support nor oppose wind development in the thumb. I have been very critical of how the initial development was handled. It was a land rush by energy companies and land owners who hoped to cash in. Now local government is wiser and taking a step back to assess the damage and draft new regulations.

On the plus side, renewable energy is a requirement for a sustainable future. I wholeheartedly support wise implementation and use of wind and solar.

Thanks for stopping by.

This is clearly disingenuous. Mr. ThumbWind, you evidently have an anti-wind stance. Stating otherwise is telling.

I’m sorry you feel this way. As a life long resident and taxpayer in Huron County I feel there has to be healthy skepticism about what DTE and others are telling the community. Nothing wrong with that. Don’t you agree?

It’s not a question of how I feel. Your statements on the matter are evidence enough “in favor of turning this land into a Green-Zone example for industrial energy production and a corporate farming enterprise that only pollutes and spoils the Tip-o’ the Thumb.”

You can characterize it as “healthy skepticism” or whatever else you like but it’s just NIBY plan and simple.

I took my wife and children on a “color tour” today. We visited http://www.johnsonsgiantpumpkins.net/ as well as stopped for lunch at a local eatery and bought some grocers for the drive around the Tuscola Bay Wind Farm. We put around $200 into the local economy…..because the

After driving thru the are between M81 and M25 for over 5 hours I can tell you a few things.

1)Wind turbine are massive. With the right vantage point you can see them from miles away. With the wrong vantage point (even within a mile) the entire Farm of over 75 turbine can be invisible. 2)With winds in the 20mph range today the noise from dry standing corn made it so I couldn’t hear the turbines. Passing cars were many times louder. This wind turbines are basically silent. 3)Almost no one lives in the area were these turbines are in operation. The houses in the area are for the most part a mile or more apart. Lots of Corn and Soy Bean very few people. I would guess the peak population density anywhere I drove today(that was within a mile of a Turbine)was under 50 people per square mile. Most of the area was probably 10 or under with some 0 in there. 4)Wind Turbines at first glance are a very rare example of form and function peaking a pinnacle together.

We will be going back, farther north to see more of the development and other sights in the thumb…..that I have only been to once before……after living near Detroit for 30 years and in Michigan my whole life…….

I also find it noteworthy that clearing the land and planting massive mono cultures for sale down state is fine…in-fact the basis of the entire economy in the area…but Wind Turbines to make power to sell down state is looked upon negatively by some.

I have written about wind turbines and support natural sources of energy. Smiles, Robin

Love seeing windmills, Can you tell the best hwys, in the thumb area to view them. Traveling with in a week from US23 north.

Get to Bay City and take M-25 To Port Austin. You will start seeing the turbines near Sebwaing. Have a good trip.

You have got to take the back/dirt roads … and then you will only see the smaller turbines that have been built. Nothing like the 499 plus footers that will be built … on “flat”land .. small turbines “nestled” amongst hilly land is no more than a deception to get you to fall for the monstrosities that are to follow.

I’m interested in the positives and negatives of wind turbines. I think they are beautiful in a sleek kind of way. But I don’t have to live near them. And one of my birder friends says they are deadly to migrating birds, yet another says they can be placed out of migrating paths and are not deadly to birds. Confusing.

PS: Thanks for stopping by my blog.

In the last few weeks I have seen a number of trucks hauling turbines west on M12 . Where are they headed?

I’m looking into it.

The last few months I have seen many trucks hauling these west on M12 through Saline. Where are these going?

I will have to check that one out. There was a project I that area but it was halted about a year ago.

There has been a wind farm just north of Deckerville for several years. Why is it not on the map?

What is the name of the project?

Probably Michigan Wind 2. It’s a bit larger than indicated by just the green marker. Eg: http://wikimapia.org/#lang=en&lat=43.635827&lon=-82.705078&z=12

Thanks…I’ll be adding additional announced projects soon.

Could you tell me how many turbines are going up on Schott Road in Dwight township in Huron County, Mi

I will have to research for an exact number.

I continue to see wind mills being trucked west on US-12 through Saline, Clinton and to US-127. I am not sure where they go after that. That is as far as I have followed them. Have you determined where these might be going?

I am bringing a group of 20 university students on a civic engagement/career exploration trip around Michigan and would like to know if anyone can provide me direct contact info to request a wind farm tour in the thumb area of Michigan? If so, please email it to me at [email protected]

Michele..DTE has conducted tours during the summer months. I would think that Ferris would be a welcome visitor. I will try to make contact with the local DTE staff to close the loop for you. What dates are you thinking?

Tuesday, March 8th in the afternoon or Wednesday, March 9th in the morning. I can be reached at 231-591-2685. Thank you!

Michele..I’ve reached out to DTE and they may call you directly. the Harvest Wind parks I Huron Co. are quite a sight.

FUCK WIND TURBINES!!! I bought a house on Lake Huron for the view, and it is being WRECKED by UGLY wind turbines…I am trying to start a class action suit against them!!!!

Good luck with that

I have been pro renewable energy for quite some time however those turbines are enormous, ugly and a complete distraction they ruin the landscape, they look like something out of HG Wells War of the Worlds, very little has been spent on experimentation with fusion which could provide an entirely new form of clean energy

We agree. While wind energy must be part of the solution its not the sole source for renewable. Thanks for stopping by.

How do you pick the land…does each farmer have the same chance?

Energy companies conduct studies for placement of wind turbines in specific areas. This is overlaid on maps showing structures, zoning and restricted areas such as homes and schools. The result is a patch work of land area in which owners can be offered a lease. Thanks for stopping by.

We have a cottage on Lake Huron in Tawas City. Most nights, we can see a line of flashing red lights on the lake’s horizon. First time I saw them, I didn’t know what to make of it — especially since they all flash in unison. I’d be interested in the reason for that, since there must have been some additional cost to make that happen. If the wind farm is near Sebawaing as you say, that’s around 34 miles across the bay. By the way, on and around the 4th of July we can also see fireworks displays taking place in the thumb across the bay. I imagine folks in the thumb can do the same.

Those I the interior will notice the lights flashing at night. Those on the shore will not see them.

“Plans underway show 1,151 turbines with 2,132 MW operational at the end of 2016.” A nearly doubling in turbine count? Where? Do you have some information to support this claim?

Hi James, those estimates were cast in 2010 based on the passage of Michigan Senate Bill 213. That bill can be found here. http://www.michigan.gov/documents/mpsc/2007-SNB-0213_254495_7.pdf

Also refer to http://www.michigan.gov/documents/mpsc/wind_farm_summary_407660_7.pdf for specific cur the builds and estimates. Thanks for stopping by

There is a windmill park scheduled to be built in 2017 in southern Sanilac county. Fremont and Speaker townships are supposed to get between 75 and 100 windmills. Land has been leased.

Thanks for the information. Good stuff.

What kind of jobs do these wind parks offer the people of the thumb area?

Once built the wind farms employ about 5-10 people to manage several farms. They are all monitored remotely. They are specially skilled specific to the turbine type and project.

They are in the Ithaca, MI area.

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IMAGES

  1. How to Install Solar Panels on a Sailboat

    sailboat solar panel wind generator

  2. EP 09: Solar & Wind Generator Installed on our Sailboat

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  3. Sailing Britican: How To

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  4. Is a Wind Generator on a Sailboat Worth the Cost?

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  5. 5 Best Wind Generators For Sailboats (2020)

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  6. SOLAR Vs. WIND

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COMMENTS

  1. Sailboat Wind Generators: The Ultimate Guide 2024

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  2. Choosing a Wind Generator for a Sailboat

    Today's solar panels are less expensive and more efficient than ever before, while wind generator technology hasn't progressed much in the last 50 years. Still, there are limited times when wind generators make the most sense on sailboats.

  3. 5 Best Wind Generators For Sailboats (2024)

    Wind generators, also known as micro turbines, have come a long way since their first appearance on the cruising scene back in the 1970's. ... The Superwind generators also can be combined with solar panels and conventional diesel generators. The Superwind generator family also uses a brushless A/C stator for maximum control of noise and radio ...

  4. Solar Panels vs. Wind Generators

    For most U.S. sailors contemplating investing in renewable energy sources for the first time, it makes sense to buy a solar panel before a wind generator. For about $700, you can buy a pair of 60-watt panels that can generate about 240 watt-hours or 20 amp hours (assuming four hours of peak sunlight). This won't cover the amp-hour ...

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  7. How-to: Installing a Wind Generator

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  8. Installing solar and wind power on your boat

    We would install two solar panels on the bimini and a wind generator high on the mizzen mast. We installed two 180-watt panels built with Sunpower Maxeon cells, which are semi-flexible panels with very good efficiency. A canvas shop sewed pockets on the boat's existing bimini to hold the panels, which feed into an Outback Flexmax FM80 charge ...

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  10. Know how: Wind Generators

    Wind generators have a natural appeal to sailors in need of extra power. They harness the same element that we rely on to get from A to B, and the technology behind them is well proven and reliable. Despite the growing popularity of hydrogenerators and ever more efficient solar panels, wind generators are still a common sight on bluewater ...

  11. EP 09: Solar & Wind Generator Installed on our Sailboat

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  12. What You Need To Know About Boat Solar Panels

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  13. Wind Generator vs Solar Panels Which is Better For Your Boat?

    Solar panels produce power only when the sun shines. A wind generator on the other hand, has the potential to produce power 24 hours a day. Even if a wind generator produces only 20 watts, it does it 24 hours a day. Higher wind speeds can produce lots of power. Wind generators really produce power when sailing on a reach.

  14. Best Wind Generators for Sailboats of 2024

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  15. How to Install a Wind Generator on a Sailboat

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  16. Wind Generator vs Solar Panels on My Boat?

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  17. Marine Wind Generator

    It is often desirable to combine wind and solar for power generation on a cruising sailboat. The V400 Wind Generator and external hybrid controller is ideal for an integrated wind/solar installation using our CMP 90 watt, CMP 140 watt or CMP 130 watt solar panel. The V400 Wind Generator is a work horse. It has Magnalium Alloy construction which ...

  18. Can A Wind Generator Power My Sailboat?

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  19. Best Marine Solar Generators And Panels for Boats

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  20. Wind generators, yay or nay?

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