sailboat open transom

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Open Transom trend

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I have noticed a trend toward open transom boats in the new models. Am I the only one that thinks that this is a bad idea? Racers started using them because it is self bailing and reduces weight, but what are the advantages for a cruising boat? Does it just look cool? I have a number of concerns including: Safety - Isn't someone going to get washed overboard? Following seas - See my first concern. Environmental - Every piece of junk in the cockpit is going to wind up in the ocean.  

crow551 said: I have noticed a trend toward open transom boats in the new models. Am I the only one that thinks that this is a bad idea? Racers started using them because it is self bailing and reduces weight, but what are the advantages for a cruising boat? Does it just look cool? I have a number of concerns including: Safety - Isn't someone going to get washed overboard? Following seas - See my first concern. Environmental - Every piece of junk in the cockpit is going to wind up in the ocean. Click to expand...

I love em. It's fast. If someone is going to get washed overboard, it's b/c they aren't tethered in. No one gets washed off the BACK of the boat, almost always the side. The TP52 has an open transom, the Antrim 27, minis, open classes, and many others designed specifically to go from California to Hawaii (typically a downwind ride) all have open transoms. If you have kids they should be in a PFD as the law states, or down below. Or better yet, watched by a responsible parent. Call me crazy, but that shouldn't be a big issue for boat designers, the safety of unattended children in the cockpit.  

zz4gta said: I love em. It's fast. If someone is going to get washed overboard, it's b/c they aren't tethered in. No one gets washed off the BACK of the boat, almost always the side. The TP52 has an open transom, the Antrim 27, minis, open classes, and many others designed specifically to go from California to Hawaii (typically a downwind ride) all have open transoms. If you have kids they should be in a PFD as the law states, or down below. Or better yet, watched by a responsible parent. Call me crazy, but that shouldn't be a big issue for boat designers, the safety of unattended children in the cockpit. Click to expand...

My friend has a Dehler 33 with an open transom that was designed as a cruiser/racer. It has a great feature that solves this issue. The boat has a custom designed removable locker that can be installed across the aft end of the cockpit, converting it from an open transom boat into what is basically a standard transom boat with a swim platform. I'm surprised more companies don't do this with their open transom designs. I agree with the OP about his three points and think that for a CRUISING boat, it doesn't make much sense.  

sailingdog said: My friend has a Dehler 33 with an open transom that was designed as a cruiser/racer. It has a great feature that solves this issue. The boat has a custom designed removable locker that can be installed across the aft end of the cockpit, converting it from an open transom boat into what is basically a standard transom boat with a swim platform. I'm surprised more companies don't do this with their open transom designs. ... Click to expand...

Brezzin, If you can close the transom then like in your case then I am less concerned. I would not consider that an open transom, but a door to your swim platform. As for trash going overboard, I don't like your response. It shouldn't happen. I have no problem with this feature on race boats with everyone leashed in, but on a cruising boat I am not going to be harnessed to be the boat all the time.  

crow551 said: I have no problem with this feature on race boats with everyone leashed in, but on a cruising boat I am not going to be harnessed to be the boat all the time. Click to expand...

A netting should solve the problem of MOB. Not sure I see the advantages. Saves weight? Then take off the sides and bow, and get a windsurfer? They do look cool though.  

I like the open transom. It does self bail instantly and there is no concern about dirt in the scuppers leaving you with a wallowing boat with a filled cockpit, or with a hose clamp coming loose and causing the cockpit to drain into the bilge. It makes it infinitely easier to safely board the boat from the dinghy and also to get someone aboard in an MOB situation. We sail with a small dog and small grandchildren. When they are aboard I tie a fender under the folding helmsman's seat, and there is no room for them to go overboard. Both the kids and dog always were a PFD, and in rough conditions all should be tethered. I suspect that those who are worried the open transom will cause the boat to be pooped have never experienced that phenomenon. I would be interested to hear from anyone who has.  

Another problem with these boats is that the deck on some continues at the same level into the cabin (see the new Moody for an example). So you don't just have to worry about a boarding wave flooding the cockpit but the cabin as well.  

Jeff_H said: "So where do you sail with such clement weather that you NEVER get water sluicing down the deck? Its not where you sail, but what you sail. If you sail modern boats you almost never have water slucing down the deck, at least not aft of the leeward shrouds. "And since when will a PFD act to keep someone in the boat?" When its an inflatible with a harness which is teathered to the boat. Corm, You need to spend more time with modern boats and hardware- Trust me on this.. Jeff Click to expand...

But I am also bothered by the extremes we go through to avoid percieved 'inconvenience' . It drives me crazy that the award for innovative hardware went to a motorized winch made in range of sizes that includes small enough for small boats, and that has one button that can ease and another to sheet in, saving the inconvenience of having to actually handle the sheet. It drives me crazy to hear salesmen hawking the absense of a bridge deck or mid-boom mainsheeting or arch mounted travelers because they avoid the inconvenience of stepping over something that is knee high. At some point we need to admit that one of the joys of sailing is doing something which is not always convenient. Click to expand...

Open end of the boat----too large a hole for me. I dont need my feet wet by the sea washing in from behind.  

The inconvenience of stepping over a bridgedeck or a transom might just be the difference between having a seaworthy boat and a dock queen.  

Thus we can explain the Rep Pwr 9 that SD doth possess.  

Some people just do not like change and never will. My Grandfather never bough a car with an automatic transmission and my great granddad though cars were a bad thing and stuck to mules and such. Designs move on and are driven by many factors. The boats with aft openings into the cockpit have been in use for many years..... almost every charter (80 to 90%) have open cockpits.... think you could also consider all cats having them. My boat has one and went though a couple of hurricanes with no water in the cabin and no reason for concern on the mooring with 105 MPH winds and very confused seas coming in all directions at the same time. She was dry as a bone. Although no by choice I've had following seas over 7 feet pass under me on a trip to the Spanish Virgins... got a wet heal on right foot once. In heavy seas you ALWAYS put your companion way board up, but I've never had water enter the cockpit except for when I drip it coming from the swim platform. I personally would never want the hassle of getting aboard a boat with out one unless it was tied up to a dock....... as has been said before.... that could be one reason people who know what they want in a boat often exclude those that are difficult to get in from the water. Everyone has preferences..... in the Carib it is very clear what that is as far as transoms go. But each to his own.... my great granddad would probably still have his mule if he were still around.  

That gives a whole (hole) new meaning to island berth. :laugher  

Anytime something has been lost overboard, it's gone over the side, not out the back. Usually it's the butter fingers of a crew member that loses the winch handle, gps, phone, so I don't see how a closed transom has anything to do with it. Locking winch handles always make me chuckle, they never "magically" fall overboard, it's when the human element is molesting one that causes the tragedy. And yes, a PFD with tether will keep someone on board better than your grasp or that of the jolly green giant. I still stick to my statement kids should not have the run of the boat relying on lifelines, netting, or a boats design to keep them on board.  

We have a Beneteau 361, open transom. So far I have lost a radio and a leatherman, but still love the open transfom for boarding and water access.  

This is the same to me as full vs fin keel, marconi vs fractional rig, center vs aft vs deck salon........... or the footed vs non footed main,,,,,, Take your pick, choose you postives and negatives, and move on from there! Marty  

Small dogs and little ones can easily slip through that opening. It's a nagging fear on my boat. I plan on putting some netting across that opening. However, the sugar scoop and open transom are a nice feature. All things in equal measure.  

Love the open transom.... makes it easier for pirates to board in the middle of the night  

It drives me crazy that the award for innovative hardware went to a motorized winch made in range of sizes that includes small enough for small boats, and that has one button that can ease and another to sheet in, saving the inconvenience of having to actually handle the sheet. It drives me crazy to hear salesmen hawking the absense of a bridge deck or mid-boom mainsheeting or arch mounted travelers because they avoid the inconvenience of stepping over something that is knee high. At some point we need to admit that one of the joys of sailing is doing something which is not always convenient. And yes your are right I do sound like a curmudgeon, what of it.... Click to expand...

Open transom boats DO NOT take on water from the stern, the swim step doesn't even get wet.  

Race boats tend to have a a lot of folks in the cockpit, making a large cockpit with an open transom essential. Many heavy duty offshore cruising boats have minuscule cockpits that will not take on much water.  

The answer is short steep waves, the type we get off the East coast, in the quick building storms we get. When the boat surfs down the face and the bow hits the trough and slows, the wave just keeps going right into the cockpit. I have personally had this happen to me on multiple occasions so I know for a fact that it can and does happen. I have also been pooped in closed cockpit boats and they drain at a snails pace compared to how fast it came in. Personally having experienced both I much prefer to get pooped with an open transom than a closed cockpit and scuppers. Of course I prefer not to get pooped at all but it can happen and has probably happened to me about 12-15 times over 35 years of sailing in closed cockpit boats. When we were running back to Portland in 2005 during a pretty good storm I filled the cockpit of our Catalina on multiple occasions on just that one trip. We'd hit the trough, the boat would rapidly slow and poof here comes the water again, usually just the crest and foam but still a decent amount.. Probably not going to get seas that steep or short in 1k feet of water but we do get some short wave periods here and this can create the perfect environment for water entering an open transom boat..  

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What is a Sailboat Transom?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

In sailing terms, a transom is the flat vertical section at the back of the boat. Outboard motors are mounted to the transom.

The transom is a structural and stylistic part of the sailboat. Additionally, most of the transom is visible from above the waterline. Outboard motors are almost always mounted to the transom. Powerboats, such as runabouts and ski boats, usually also have a transom.

Table of contents

What is the Transom Used For?

Transoms are an integral part of a sailboat's hull, and they also happen to be a very useful mounting point for all kinds of equipment. Transoms are used to mount outboard motors, antennas, and sometimes the rudder.

What Kind of Boat has a Transom?

Virtually every kind of modern vessel has a transom. Watercraft that utilize this design feature include speedboats, houseboats, fishing vessels, cargo ships, warships, and (of course) sailboats. Transoms are common because they simplify the construction process of boats and ships. The transom design commonly found on sailboats became popular during the 20th century.

Previously, shipbuilders utilized complex and attractive lines on the vessel's stern. These lines made watercraft more aesthetically pleasing, but they required complex framing and a highly skilled workforce. The introduction of the flat transom design greatly reduced boat construction cost, time, and complexity.

How to Identify a Sailboat Transom

Locating and identifying the transom of a sailboat is easy. The transom is located at the rear of the vessel and is sometimes referred to as the "stern" of the boat. Using this terminology for the transom is only half correct, as the transom itself is just one piece of the stern.

What does the Transom of a Sailboat Look Like?

The transom of a sailboat is often a wide, flat surface located on the outside of the vessel's stern. It's the place where you'll often find the name and home port of the vessel, along with a number of stern-mounted utilities.

Transoms come in all shapes and sizes, depending on the design and purpose of the boat. They can be square, round, small, large, and shaped like virtually anything. However, most modern sailing vessels use relatively simple rounded-rectangle transoms.

Is the Transom located Above the Waterline?

Yes, the majority of the transom is located above the waterline (assuming the sailboat is still afloat). Some transoms, especially on more elegant yachts, are smaller and preceded by a dramatic upward-sloping stern.

Some sailboats, such as schooners, often utilize more elegant transom designs. Early yachts of the Edwardian period are known for their dramatic sterns and elegant transoms.

Sailboat Transom Styling

Sailboat transoms vary significantly in styling, though the simplest designs are usually more common. Many sailboat transoms are not completely flat. Instead, they often sport a slight outward bow or curve.

Additionally, sailboat transoms do not always have a perfect 90-degree vertical orientation. Instead, they often slope backward or forwards. This design feature has many names, including the 'launch-style' stern.

Types of Sailboat Sterns

The primary types of sailboat sterns are the transom stern (as described above) and the canoe stern. Transom stern sailboats are far more common today due to their simplicity, utility, and relative ease of construction.

Canoe-stern sailboats don't have what most people would consider a transom. Instead, these vessels are pointed on both ends—bow, and stern. And while there are some advantages to canoe-stern designs, they lack the simple utility of a flat stern.

Advantages of a Transom Stern Sailboat

The transom stern is the most popular sailboat configuration today, and for a good reason—as we mentioned earlier, there's a lot to be said about utilizing a clean, flat surface at the rear of the boat.

Given the proliferation of outboard motors, it's extremely useful to have a flat and strong surface to work with. This is especially important on larger sailboats that don't come equipped with inboard motors.

The transom adds an increased layer of strength and structural rigidity to the hull. Additionally, the transom stern opens up numerous hull design possibilities and allows designers to focus on stability, experiment with new materials, and utilize modern hull forms.

A sailboat with a transom is much easier to construct than a canoe-type vessel, especially when using traditional materials. What once took weeks of careful lofting, planing, cutting, and steaming is now accomplished with a laser cutter and a single piece of heavy-duty plywood.

Transom-Mounted Outboard Motors

Outboard motors are tricky to mount on canoe-stern vessels, as there's no flat place to put the motor. A sailboat transom negates this issue entirely. Many sailboats between 20 and 30 feet in length have one (or more) outboard motors mounted to the stern.

Outboard Placement

When under sail, many sailboat owners retract their outboard from the water to avoid creating drag and throwing the boat off course. This is especially true on boats with a transom-mounted rudder, as the outboard can never be placed in the middle of the transom.

Outboard placement doesn't matter very much on a transom sailboat, as sailors can steer with the vessel's rudder while under power. Many sailboat outboards aren't designed to move side to side—instead, they're mounted in a fixed position on a retractable bracket.

Retractable Brackets

Maritime engineers spent decades devising all kinds of sailboat outboard motor brackets. Today, you can find virtually any kind of bracket to mount an outboard to your transom. Some brackets allow you to steer from the outboard, but many do not.

Brackets for larger sailboats often swing out and up rather than hinging on a single point. This allows sailors to move the outboard completely out of the way and elevate it, which keeps the equipment dry while underway.

Other transom-mounted outboard motor brackets are typically manually-operated, and sometimes utilize levers, gears, or hydraulics to reduce the strength required to lift the motor out of the water. On high-end boats, electrically-operated outboard brackets take the weight off entirely.

Sailboat Transom Structure

The structural significance of sailboat transoms cannot be overstated. These mostly flat sections of material are often one of the thickest parts of the boat. This is especially true on powerboats, where much of the engine force is transmitted to the hull through the transom.

An easy way to understand this concept is to examine the transom of a typical aluminum 'John Boat.' Most of these boats have additional support brackets at the base of the transom, along with a thick piece of oak or mahogany located around the motor mounts.

What is a Sailboat Transom Transom Made Of?

Sailboat transoms are usually made out of a thicker piece of its hull material . Wooden sailboats often use two or three layers of thick plywood to make the transom, as it's also the rearmost mounting point for hull frames and planks.

Fiberglass sailboat transoms are, as you would expect, made of fiberglass. However, fiberglass boats often incorporate a structural form beneath the glass and resin. Form materials are usually either balsa wood, plywood, or another composite. Layered fiberglass transoms are strong and long-lasting.

However, fiberglass transoms are not impervious, especially when water finds its way into the wooden core. This usually happens due to cracks, accidents, and neglect. If the wood behind the fiberglass rots, it compromises the structural integrity of the transom.

Is a Cracked Transom a Big Deal?

Yes, a cracked transom can be a very big deal on sailboats and powerboats alike. A crack in the transom is usually formed by stress or manufacturing defects, and it's akin to a crack in any other structural part of the boat.

It's essential to ensure that the transom of your sailboat is structurally sound, regardless of its build material. Check the transom for cracks, soft spots, deformities, and rot before purchasing a sailboat or venturing out on the water.

Sailboat Transom Repairs

So, your transom needs some work. Is it worth scrapping the boat, or can it be saved? Generally speaking, a sailboat with a damaged transom isn't automatically relegated to the scrap heap.

Transom repair cost and procedure vary depending on what the boat is made of. Wooden, steel, and aluminum sailboat transom repairs generally require a higher skill level than fiberglass boats.

Most boatyards can repair virtually any kind of damage to a fiberglass sailboat transom as long as you're willing to pay for it. Remember, the cheapest way to repair your transom is to maintain it before it leaks, cracks, or rots.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Converting to Open Transom

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Alixander Beck , Oct 13, 2005 .

Alixander Beck Junior Member

Are there any specifics to consider when converting to an Open Transom design? I am restoring this wooden dinghy with a new deck and bouancy. I will add bouancy in the Bulkheads and raise the floor 2 1/2" to add bouancy beneath it. I have spoken with some dinghy sailers and they have suggested 2 4" "tubes" in the rear bulkhead to help in sailing the boat dry after a capsize. As far as the construction of the "tubes" and installation I have that under control but was wondering if there are any specific design considerations I should be aware of. Some pictures...  

Attached Files:

Alix's toy0001.jpg, pic2003-08-02_0062.jpg.

Penfold Junior Member

If that's the rig you intend to use, I'm not sure I'd be that concerned about a capsize - but if you built the floor aboout 3 or so inches above the waterline and boxed in those side decks to form side tanks you could chop the trans off for sure - what you will of course need is a substantial transom cross beam of some sort to hang the rudder off - but I'm sure you've thought of that. This is my boat - it don't have a transom either!!  

Yes thank you. I did not say that this was a Racer it is a restoration project. My concern is not whether or not this boat will capsize - becuase it will - My concern is how to empty the cockpit quickly when full of water. Chopping of the transom is not an option as I mentioned before this is a restoration to original form/design with slight modification not a frankenstein-boat Your boat looks fast - faster than mine - Congratulations, but I was looking for helpful feedback not braggery.  

Raggi_Thor Nav.arch/Designer/Builder

If you want an open transom, can you make the sole sloop backwards to make sure the water exits there? What about selfbailers like they use in the Yngling? One on each side where the sole meets the hull, at the widest part?  

Tim B Senior Member

There is an old trick (assuming that the floor is above the waterline at the transom) of drilling two 1" diameter (25mm) holes, one either side to let the water drain out. Laser 13s and 16s did this with great success as, (i think) does the Laser Stratos. It's a good system and requires a minimal change. Tim B.  

I was thinking of the type that "suck" the water out if the boat is sailing.  

Doug Lord Guest

transom drains I think the big drains and raised cockpit sole are a good idea. You might want to consider some sort of rubber(maybe epdm) flaps on the outside so if you had to move aft to work on the rudder it would not necessarily flood-at least not quickly.  

astevo Junior Member

best form of flaps are mylar or xray film stuck on with double side tape at the top, bit of vaseline round the edges will help the leaks, but every form of the stern flaps ive ever seen leaks a bit, especially if the stern drags a bit. other options are a bit of neoprene with a bit of plastic on the back of it to hold it flat, these can handle a bit of elastic to hold them into place, which you can then release if you swim.  

I am very sorry. I thought your post meant converting to an open transom - ie where there was a transom, the intention is to have an open space. Using tubes to drain thro the aft tank is quite common in racing boats, and like a lot of racing features, it would work very well in a cruising boat. Please do not take my post as braggery. I was meant to be read as 'anything is possible'. Look at the back of an International Contender for great transom tubes, or a Lark or Scorpion for great flaps - one of the best mylar type films I have found to do it is easily available from stationary stores (acetate sheet for making overhead projector slides), secure it with simple gaffer tape is ok, but vacuum bagging tape (good chandleries will be able to get some for you) is better. I think however from experience of rebuilding at least half a dozen Firefly dinghies in the last year - including my own 1951 built one, that doing a proper job on the increase in bouyancy is the key to the challenge. If you design and build it properly it will massively reduce the 'scoop' area as the boat is righted after a swim and you may well find it possible to 'dry' capsize like a laser or a modern dinghy. Watch out you don't overdo the buoyancy however, or build it too low down else you may find the boat floats too high on it's side, in which case you may find you struggle to get back aboard, or even that the boat turtles straight away - which will also tend to happen if the sail area is small. A better idea used by heavier displacement boats is the self bailer - they work well at even low speeds now and if it is windy enough to capsize, you will have the speed to make them drain the boat in no time. An old boat builder once reminded me when I was in two minds about fitting one, that a self bailer weighs less than a plastic hand bailer full of water... and the transom can remain intact... Draining fast in open boats that 'scoop and keep it in' is always done best with a 2 gallon bucket and a digging the garden action! I was also not suggesting a frankenstien approach. This sort of job requires skill and consideration of the original - obviously. In our yard we do these sort of conversions all the time and they take days and we never make any money on them - but we do them anyway! As to whether my boat is faster than yours or not - I'm sorry but I don't understand the comparison - I was mearly pointing out that open transoms (as your post puts it) normally mean NO transom and that it is a very ordinary thing, done on race and cruising boats the world over - and the photo was intended to show that very wet boats benefit from the design very well indeed. No offence or braggery was intended in any way. Please accept all due apologies if that was how you read it - and I hope these comments from someone who's been 15 years a boat builder are of better use.  

In my experience, LARK flaps can be absolutely pants. It's not helped by the rules stipulating a minimum distance from the transom floor (which is not the lowest point). I got so fed up with the flaps on my LARK that I just glued some perspex into the transom and now use a self bailer and 1/2 a milk bottle. It seems to work much better, considering that I don't get a lot of water in the boat anyway. As long as you have the with the floor and drain principle, it's not going to flood as long as the floor is above the DWL. The only way it COULD flood is if you were sailing backwards (another reason for me not having flaps on the LARK). Even if it does flood a little, it's going to drain out pretty quick as long as the floor slopes down aft. Tim B.  

come to think of it You know Tim, you're right. Come to think of it, I sealed my Lark transom flaps up and didn't use them because when you're sitting in the right place up wind (ie as far forward as you can get just about), the bottom of the flap opening would have been about 75mm above the water, and if you filled up after a capsize, they let more water in than out unless you were planing, and as anyone knows if you've got a boat full of tide you can't sheet in too hard for fear of the rig getting bent (a common problem with Lark rigs too) I did also have the problem of them nearly filling the boat up when I was reversing in traffic - and when sitting around between starts hove-to with my feet up eating lunch! good to see how a flap works tho- even better as an example of how class rules mess things up sometimes!  

Thanks for all the suggestions. Tim B. - the boat does already have the 1" drains which work well for emptying the boat after sailing, but they take forever if the boat is full in the chop, not to mention they sit at the bottom of the transom. Penfold, Appologies for my hasty descisions, your comments are useful and appreciated. Thanks. I think I may just increase the bouancy and leave the open transom on the back burner for now. Maybe take another look at it after evaluating how she sails with the added bouancy. Penfold, Could you please elaborate on the increase of bouancy possibly causing turtling? It's something I'd like to avoid at all costs if possible.  

Sure... Consider the boat lying on its side, capsized. In an ideal world you want the sails on the water so it stays stable with the centre line of the boat about 6in above the water so you can reach the centreboard and get her up. If the centre of bouyancy (c of B) is in the sole of the floor, there can be a tendancy for this to rotate the hull around the centre of gravity - which in most dinghy hulls is around the top of the centre board case sort of area. The hull will always try and rotate until the c of g is directly under the c of b... Sounds like a difficult thing to do right? Actually it's quite easy - you just have to work out the centres of volumes of the buoyancy compartments correctly to ensure that the c of g of the hull is lower in the boat than the c of b when the boat is upright, then when on it's side the hull will try to right itself (won't be able to because of the rig being full of water of course) so that in a capsize the boat will stay on it's side. Working it out is easy in metric because of course 1 litre of air will support 1kg of mass etc...  

Ah I see, So by that explanation there should be more bouancy in the side decks that on the Sole, to keep the bouancy higher than the CoG, which would be the steel CB in this case? In this picture are the ducts those rectangular sections at the bottom of the transom? and is that a cap over the tubes that this man is holding? Thanks Penfold!  

internationalContender6.jpg

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It looks like a waterproof inspection hatch cover he's putting on to the back tank so not a tube really... But yeah, the triangular ducts are drain tubes down from the cockpit - which has a false floor in this class so the boat drains easily. Aim to spread the buoyancy around... a false floor will keep the boat dry but very much reduces head room when crossing the boat, and of course you have the problem of how to repair hull damage... Making side deck 'tanks' is a good way to stiffen the boat, give fixed buoyancy and will probably help reduce inversion in a capsize... gotta go now, finished work early for a change and a weekend of sailing ahead of me! - good luck, Penfold  

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Yacht Dreaming

What Are the Different Types of Sailboat Transoms?

Sailboats come in all shapes and sizes, and the transom is an important part of the structure of the boat. It is important to know the different types of sailboat transoms to ensure that you choose the right one for your boat. In this article, we will explore the different types of sailboat transoms, including Semi-elliptical, Counter, Straight and Reverse transoms, and discuss the advantages and disadvantages of each type so that you can make an informed decision.

Types of Sailboat Transoms

When choosing a sailboat transom, you should consider the type of sailing you plan to do and the kind of boat you want. The four types of sailboat transoms are: Semi-Elliptical, Counter, Straight, and Reverse Transoms. Semi-Elliptical transoms are the most common and offer good balance between performance and comfort in most sailing conditions.

Counter transoms are good for high-performance boats, but may not provide the same level of comfort as Semi-Elliptical transoms.

Straight transoms are usually found on smaller boats, and provide a great balance between speed and stability. Reverse transoms offer excellent performance but tend to be less comfortable than other types of transoms. In the end, choosing the right sailboat transom will depend on your needs, preferences, and the type of sailing you plan to do.

When making the decision, remember that whatever type of sailboat transom you choose, it should be made from high quality materials and be properly fitted to the boat. A well-fitted transom provides a great deal of stability to the boat and allows it to perform optimally in the water.

Take your time to research the different types of transoms, and talk to experienced sailors who can provide valuable insights and advice. With the right information, you can choose the right sailboat transom to ensure you get the most out of your sailing experience.

Semi-Elliptical Transom

A semi-elliptical transom is the most common type of sailboat transom and it’s a good choice if you’re looking for a reliable, durable transom. It has a rounded, semi-circle shape at the back of the boat, which helps to keep water from entering the boat while keeping the boat steady in the water.

It also helps reduce drag and offers great performance. The semi-elliptical transom is also the easiest type to use and maintain, so it can be a great option for those new to sailing.

The semi-elliptical transom is often used in larger boats and provides both stability and comfort. It also offers more space for the helmsman and crew.

This type of transom provides ventilation and can be used to increase the overall speed and performance of the boat. With a semi-elliptical transom, you can also reduce the amount of turbulence and drag, which can help to improve the overall speed and performance of the boat. The semi-elliptical transom is a great option for both beginners and experienced sailors alike.

It offers stability, comfort, and a great performance boost. It’s easy to use and maintain which makes it a great choice for all types of sailing. If you’re looking for a reliable, durable transom that offers great performance and is easy to use and maintain, then the semi-elliptical transom is the perfect choice for you!

Counter Transom

A counter transom is a great choice for those seeking a sailboat that has a more modern look. It features a flat back and a downward slope, which creates a unique shape and adds aesthetic appeal to the design.

It offers increased stability, as well as improved performance in choppy waters. The transom also helps to make the boat easier to maneuver and allows for smoother sailing.

It also offers protection from strong winds and waves. Its overall design makes it a popular choice among sailors, and it is a great option for those looking to build a reliable and attractive sailboat.

The counter transom also offers an added level of safety by providing a secure platform to stand or sit on while sailing. Its design helps reduce the risk of capsizing or falling overboard, and its increased stability makes it easier to control the boat when sailing in rough waters. The counter transom helps to reduce drag and can improve the boat’s performance in any type of water.

The counter transom is an excellent choice for those looking to build a modern and attractive sailboat. It offers increased stability and improved performance in choppy waters, as well as added safety and a secure platform for standing or sitting. Its design helps to reduce drag and makes the boat easier to maneuver, making it a great option for any sailor.

Straight Transom

Straight transom sailboats are a straightforward option that offer a classic look. They’re often seen on classic yachts, though they can also be found on modern vessels. When it comes to performance, the straight transom is known for its stability and ease of maneuverability.

They can have lower speed than other types of sailboat transoms. They can be more difficult to tack or turn than other types of sailboats.

For those looking for a simple and stable boat, the straight transom is an excellent option.

The straight transom is an ideal choice for those wanting a classic look. It’s also great for sailors who don’t require superior speed or maneuverability. The straight transom is relatively low-maintenance and offers an array of customization options.

It’s also easy to install and, depending on the sailboat model, can be relatively inexpensive compared to other types of sailboat transoms. All in all, the straight transom is a classic option that can provide stability and a classic look that can be found on both modern and classic yachts.

Reverse Transom

Reverse transoms are a great option for those who want maximum performance from their sailboat. They provide the most power and speed, and they also have the added benefit of providing extra room in the cockpit.

With a reverse transom, you get all the power and speed you need, plus the extra room to store gear. The downside to this type of transom is that it can be costly to install and maintain.

But if you’re looking for the best performance, a reverse transom is the way to go. When it comes to maintenance, a reverse transom is relatively easy to keep in good condition. You’ll want to check the wood or fiberglass every couple of years for signs of wear and tear, and you’ll want to make sure the hardware is in good working order.

It’s also a good idea to regularly inspect the rub rails and other hardware for any damage. With the proper maintenance, your reverse transom should keep your sailboat performing at its best for many years to come.

What Are the Different Boat Hull Types for Monohull Yachts?

What Are the Different Types of Small Sailboats?

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Boat Transom Heights – The Beginner’s Guide

Whether your on a pontoon boat, fishing boat, or speedboat boating is always one of the best times you can have. As summer approaches there will be more boaters taking to the water.

Among them will be first-timers or those who have recently purchased their boats.

Buying a boat can be an exciting purchase. With it comes a lot of responsibility and new things to learn including  boat maintenance  and boat basics. Here we will guide you in how to get the right boat transom height.

Before we get started let’s see what a boat transom is and what it does. The transom is the flat vertical section at the rear of the boat.  It is where the outboard is mounted, and some boat owners place the name of the boat.

The height of the transom is calculated by measuring from the bottom of the hull to the top of the transom, using the center line.

On most newer center consoles and offshore boat transoms might include a rear door leading to a swim platform as well as a molded setback bracket.

Why your boat transom needs to be the right height

It is extremely important that the boater understands the significance of the transom’s height.

The height of the boat transom dictates the size of the outboard motor. The motor is what powers the boat so the two go hand-in-hand.

If the height of the boat transom is off it can cause major issues. A reverse transom that sits too high can impact the propellers of the motor and motor bracket. The propellers will also have trouble reaching the water.

When the boat transom is too low, the motor could end up underwater. This would not be a good thing.

The short and long of transom heights

As mentioned above, the operation of the propeller relies on the transom height. To achieve this, the motor itself has to be attached at the correct height.

Beginning boaters should be aware of the boat’s measurements.

Industry standards dictate that for short shaft engines the transom height should be 15″. A long shaft engine requires a height of 20″ and extra-long shaft engines will need a transom height of 25″. 

While this is the case there is certain saltwater motors that are extra extra long at 30″ and 35″ shaft.

Keep these numbers in mind if you ever have a need for a new outboard motor for your boat.

The pros and cons of properly mounting the outboard motor to the transom

Mounting the outboard motor in accordance with the industry standards is important. However, there may be times when a boater strays away from these recommendations.

Knowing how this can affect the overall operation of the boat is a factor to be considered.

Here we look at the effects of standard, lower and higher mounting.

Standard mounting is always best for the beginner

Of course, it’s always best to go with standard practices when choosing the  best boat engine .

Generally, the anti-ventilation plate on most engines is aligned with the bottom of the vessel. This is measured by the propeller shaft being parallel to the vessel’s bottom.

The outboard comes with mounting holes and brackets. These are vertically aligned so the boater can make adjustments.

As with anything, there are exceptions to the rule. If you decide to make adjustments, please consult a marine engine dealer about the boat design.

Lower mounting is not for the beginning boater

In lower mounting, the engine is set lower than the recommended standard. Doing this can have adverse effects.

Mounting the motor lower on the boat transom  can create  excessive spray, increase case drag, reduce underwater clearance, and negatively impact faster boats.

It also cuts into speed and fuel efficiency.

This could also effect your travelling capabilities on the boat trailer. It is possible that the motor could hang low while transporting on the boat trailer causing future boat repairs.

There is a simple test to see if your outboard motor is set at the best height. Simply start with the engine in idle, followed by  trimming the motor out by one-half to full trim.

Safely but briskly accelerate. If the propeller fails to ventilate, the motor is mounted to low.

There are instances where a lower mount may be okay.  Some fishing boats can handle the motor being underwater. This, however, is not recommended for the beginning boater.

Higher mounting is the most complex

Higher mounting decisions should be left to the professionals. One of the main concerns is causing the engine to overheat if not enough water reaches the engine to keep it cool.

The boater must also consider if the boat transom support is designed to bear the weight of a higher mount. No one wants to have issues with a new transom or boat repairs.

Boaters who consider going with a higher mount can see increased speeds. It can also improve the experience of driving a faster boat.

Increased RPM and additional horsepower feed the need for speed. This alone can outweigh the negatives when deciding to adjust the mount upwards.

On the downside, a higher mount can interfere with the boaters steering capabilities.

All things considered, sticking with the industry standard is best for the beginner. Always weigh the risks of making adjustments.

Calculating your boat’s transom angle

Another important measurement is the transom angle.

The transom angle is the vertical incline of the transom and is measured in degrees. The boat transom can be flat with zero degree angles. Or it can have an angle degree as high as 30.

The average transom angle is around 14 degrees.

Boat transom angles play a pivotal role in the flexibility of the boats trimming abilities.

Trimming in, trimming down, and trimming out are all terms that a beginning boater should learn. Each one has a totally different effect on the boat’s performance.

You don’t have to be a mathematician to determine the correct boat transom angle. However, you will need an understanding of how the degrees will alter the boat’s usability.

It doesn’t matter if you have a fiberglass boat, bay boat, big or small boat. Take your time and understand your boat and your entire transom.

Now that you have a better understanding of boat transom heights it’s time to take out the ruler and get the perfect measurements.

How can Westshore Marine & Leisure help?

If you decide to make some custom adjustments we have the  experience and know-how  to make it happen.

Whether you already own a boat or looking for your first watercraft we are here to service your needs. If you have a question or need additional information,  contact us  today.

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Transom Brackets For Small Outboards: Fulton Rates Best

In our test of eight transom-mounted brackets, the fulton was the easiest to operate. garelick's model for motors up to 20 hp earns runner-up honors, and omc's unit deserves consideration..

The most common form of auxiliary propulsion for small sailboats is the outboard motor. On some boats, it is mounted in a well forward of the transom. Such arrangements conceal and protect the motor but may not allow it to be tilted up to get the prop out of the water when sailing. More common, perhaps is the mounting of a bracket on the transom. These generally have two positions—up and down—for lowering the motor’s prop into the water, and raising it. Brackets should be strong, durable, and, most importantly, easy to operate without having to hang out over the transom.

What Was Tested We rounded up eight brackets from five manufacturers—Fulton, Garelick, Triangle, Minn Kota and Outboard Motor Corp. (OMC). Prices ranged from $95 to $380. All are manually operated, except for the electrically powered Minn Kota.

Early on we discovered that your choice depends not only on the outboard’s horsepower and weight but also on whether it’s a two- or four-stroke. We understood why weight and horsepower make a difference but weren’t sure why a four-stroke would require a special, and subsequently more expensive, bracket.

“It’s the increased torque and thrust of a four-stroke,” said Jayson Klade, a Fulton Industries technical representative. The four-stroke’s greater force imposes more stress on the bracket; therefore it needs to be stronger than a bracket for a two-stroke.

How We Tested The main criteria for evaluation was ease of use, but also considered was the ease of assembly and mounting, quality of materials, price and instructions. We noted how sturdy each bracket was by shaking the motor from side to side and fore and aft while placing the bracket in several positions—a “wiggle test,” if you will. We also measured the range of motion, or vertical distance, of each.

To test, we collaborated with our sister publication, Powerboat Reports, whose editor owns a 21′ walkaround with a large outboard; his interest was mounting a small backup “kicker.”We had a local machine shop weld up a stainless steel plate that could be bolted to his boat’s transom and used to mount the brackets.

Three motors were used—a 2000 Nissan 5-hp four-stroke, a 1980’s-era 9.9-hp Mercury two-stroke and a 1970’s 15-hp Evinrude. We hauled the boat, mounted each bracket and tried all three outboards on each one.

What Was Found The three Garelick models, the four-stroke Fulton model and the OMC bracket included 3″ bolts; the other Fulton bracket came with 2-1/4″ bolts, too short for the 2-1/2″ thick transom. This was annoying as no one likes to interrupt a project with a trip to the hardware store.

Minn Kota and Triangle included no hardware.

Instructions that came with most of the brackets were fairly good, advising where to mount them so the outboard could perform properly. Minn Kota failed to offer this information, and the Triangle came with no directions.

All but one bracket—the two-stroke Fulton—offered clearance between the motor and the bracket handle when tilted. Most used some sort of spring as its primary lifting and lowering mechanism. All except the Triangle and Minn Kota included raised strips of polypropylene or stainless steel on the mounting boards to prevent the motor from sliding off.

We were surprised that OMC and Garelick’s instructions advised that the motor be taken off before trail-ering the boat. We figured the brackets would face much more stress at sea than rolling down the highway. But representatives from both companies told us otherwise. A bump in the road can cause more damage than a large wave, they said.

“The G-forces are greater on the road,” said Dean Devore, OMC director of product development.

Only one bracket, the four-stroke Garelick, came with a safety harness to prevent the motor from sinking to the bottom if it came off the bracket.

All Fulton and Garelick models offered at least four levels to adjust outboard trim. Two of the three Garelicks—the up-to-8 hp and up-to-20 hp models—included flange-type brackets that allow you to convert the unit from a negative transom setup (an angle greater than 90°) to a positive transom (an angle less than 90°, seen mostly on sailboats). But the conversion involves swapping the brackets, reversing their position and adjusting the springs. Each of the five adjustment holes represents a 7° increment.

With most of the coil-spring models, you must be very careful while operating the bracket when it is not mounted on the boat. The force of the springs is so great that you could seriously injure yourself if you trigger the release with a finger or hand inside the mechanism. Garelick’s instructions provide several warnings; Fulton’s instructions do not.

Fulton: Two-strokes up to 10 hp We found this model extremely difficult to raise, so much so that we had to put our left knee on top of the transom and our right foot in the motor well to gain enough leverage to move it. The difficulty stems from the unit’s lack of springs and the fact that you must simultaneously push the one-arm lever aft and up, which is very awkward. Lowering the unit wasn’t much easier.

Fulton representative Jayson Klade said the company recognizes this problem and may discontinue this model because of it. He said he has had calls from older owners who have had trouble moving a 2-hp outboard on this bracket.

The unit itself is solidly built, with an anodized aluminum bracket and a polypropylene mounting board. However, the bolts used to secure this board to the bracket were rusted. We suggest replacing them with stainless steel.

This was the only bracket that presented clearance problems. The Evinrude 15’s steering arm hit the bracket’s lever handle, and the Mercury’s choke smacked it when the motor was tilted.

Bottom Line: Not recommended, mainly due to the difficulty we encountered raising and lowering the unit.

Fulton: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model, also anodized aluminum, was much easier to operate than its little brother, due to its four springs, 1-3/4″ wider stance and larger, two-arm lever. With all three engines, we needed only one hand to operate it.

However, we found two drawbacks. First, installation requires shimming (placing a 1″- to 2″-thick block of wood or aluminum between it and the transom) if mounted below the rubrail and on a flat transom, such as ours. Without a shim, the lever handle will hit the transom. In addition, shimming may require longer mounting bolts. Second, the springs obstruct eight of the 12 mounting holes, making installation more difficult. (Use a long screwdriver to bend the spring ends out of the way.) Fulton recognizes this design flaw and is working on it, said Klade.

Bottom Line: Recommended. The easiest to operate.

Garelick: Two-strokes up to 8 hp The body of this unit is stainless steel. Its four torsion springs helped us lift and lower it easily. You can also lessen the spring tension by cutting up to three of the four springs if lowering the bracket is too difficult due to the use of a light motor.

Click here to view the Transom Brackets Value Guide.

Our main complaint with this bracket was the sloppy play (fore and aft) in the up position encountered during the wiggle test. Even with its locking mechanism engaged, the bracket afforded too much play.

Bottom Line: Easy to use but its sloppy play is a drawback.

Garelick: Two-strokes to 20 hp This is essentially the same bracket as the smaller Garelick, except its longer body gives greater vertical travel, and it includes eight springs instead of four. We encountered no wobbling and found it to be even easier to operate than the smaller Garelick.

Bottom Line: Recommended. Only the Fulton four-stroke model is easier to operate.

Garelick: Two- and Four-strokes up to 30 hp This model is well-made and the only one equipped with two locks and a safety harness. Unfortunately, we had great difficulty lowering all three outboards.

The motors were not heavy enough to overcome the unit’s spring-loaded tension. Garelick says it becomes easier after you get the feel for it. We never did. The company does not advise cutting the springs on this model, so we have little confidence that it will work with motors up to 15 hp. We’d only use it for heavier motors, such as those from 20 to 30 hp.

We also discovered that this unit requires shimming to be installed on a boat with a flat transom. (Like the small Fulton, we were only able to mount it because the stainless steel plate acted as a shim.) The directions do point this out: “Add a 1″ shim if the release handle is at or below the rubrail or the top of the transom.” But some of the diagrams show a successful mounting on a flat transom. This is misleading and confusing to the installer.

Note: Garelick listed the wrong telephone number in the directions. The correct number is listed at the end of this story.

Bottom Line: Recommended only for use with engines from 20 hp to 30 hp.

OMC: Two- and Four-strokes up to 15 hp Unlike the Fulton and Garelick brackets, this model operates with a gas-filled cylinder. It was easy to operate, accomplished by moving a small lever with a red handle to positions marked “raise” or “lower.” To lower, simply jerk the motor up slightly and push down; to raise, push down on the motor, and the lift unlocks and rises. However, unlike most of the others, the OMC does not have multiple positions for engine trim—only two, up and down.

“We’ve found that most people only use one level anyway,” said OM’s Devore. “Rarely do they want to change settings.” For $380, the most expensive motor lift in our group, the consumer might prefer this option. (The device’s shock alone costs about $100, according to Devore.)

Like Garelick, OMC warns against trailer travel with the engine on the boat. It goes a step further, though, advising the owner to attach a rope to the engine in “choppy water,” suggesting to us that the manufacturer is not very confident of its product. “Perhaps that could be worded better; we are just being overly cautious,” said Devore.

OMC recently introduced a larger bracket made of die-cast aluminum (the model we tested is a combination of die-cast and stamped aluminum) for outboard motors up to 125 pounds that retails for $380.

Bottom Line: Works very well, but price is a drawback.

Triangle: Up to 10 hp This unit came without hardware or directions. Its wooden mounting board is susceptible to rotting because raw wood is exposed on the inside of its four mounting holes. In addition, we couldn’t safely attach the 9.9-hp Mercury because the 7″-wide mounting board was too narrow. The circular pads of the engine’s bolts hung off the plate. With no directions, we weren’t sure whether this bracket could hold four-stroke engines. We called Triangle, and a representative ruled them out.

Another concern is the spring on this stainless steel unit; it failed to hold the weight of the Nissan and Mercury motors. We discovered this abruptly when the Nissan came crashing down after we had released the locking mechanism. Needless to say, we believe that this bracket needs a stronger spring.

Bottom Line: Not recommended, due to its weak spring, very narrow and unprotected wooden mounting board.

Minn Kota: Two- and Four-strokes up to 20 hp This was the only electrically powered (12V) bracket tested. We found installation easy, the directions simple and the motor, which turns a jack screw to raise and lower the mounting board, worked effectively.

Even though this unit is listed in the West Marine catalog, it is not intended for saltwater use, which explains the steel components (only the mounting board is anodized aluminum). Minn Kota may come out with a saltwater version in 2002, said spokesman Dave Golladay.

We thought the electrical connections were inadequate (for salt- or freshwater use), especially the two spade connectors that attach to the unit’s motor. They are directly exposed to the water.

The silicone meant to protect the motor’s housing was sloppily applied, hanging off and failing to cover certain spots.

The Minn Kota flunked our wiggle test. The two arms attached to the jack screw don’t offer enough support. We would attach a third arm—there’s room.

The jack screw is a potential problem, too, because it sticks out when the unit is up, leaving it open to be struck by the corner of a dock or other solid structure. Golladay said, “These are all very good points. We’re trying to enhance that product line. Our primary focus is trolling motors.”

Bottom Line: Not recommended. An automatic bracket is a great idea, and one we’d like to see developed, but the Minn Kota’s subpar materials and construction make it difficult to recommend.

Conclusion The Fulton four-stroke bracket is our top choice for any size outboard. It does require some shimming, but its solid construction and ease of use place it ahead of the pack.

Our runner-up, the Garelick (up to 20 hp) was extremely easy to use, and it’s $60 less than the Fulton. But it’s limited to two-stroke engines, which leads us to this point: Because four-strokes are becoming more popular, it does not make sense for manufacturers to continue producing brackets for two-stroke use only. We think it only confuses the consumer. (For instance, we’ve received reader letters asking why some motor lifts are restricted to two-stroke motors.)

Case in point: A 5-hp four-stroke does not produce as much torque as a 20-hp two-stroke, and yet the Garelick (up to 20 hp) restricts all four-strokes.

The OMC bracket was also impressive, but you have to be willing to pay. The smallest Garelick worked well, but its failure in the wobble test is a concern.

We don’t think you should consider the other models because they had, in our opinion, too many flaws.

Contacts- Fulton Performance Products, Inc., 50 Indianhead Drive, P.O. Box 8, Mosinee, WI 54455; 715/693-1700. Garelick, PO Box 8, 644 2nd St., St. Paul Park, MN 55071; 651/459-9795. Minn Kota, Johnson Outdoors, 706 Holly Lane, Mankato, MN 56001; 800/227-6433. OMC, 3225 Prairie Ave., Beloit, WI 53511; 847/689-5630. Triangle, Inc., 51 Fernwood Lane, Roslyn, NY 11576; 516/365-8143.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

i have a 19 foot sail boat with a 5 hp nissan ob. the Garelic a bracket MN 10470 (not sure of MN). The main issue is the grommets spacers corrode within 2 seasons . I sail in salt/brackish water. I complained and they gave me a discount on another one they said better modle. It did the same thing. Not sure what to get now that I purchaesed a 6 hp Tahatsu that is heavier 55lbs.

Anyone know where I can buy a gas cyclinder for the OMC bracket

Darrell, what about short shaft vs long shaft outboards? Can I use my short shaft 15 Hp Evinrude on a sailboat with a bracket?

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Your Ultimate Guide to Boat Transoms

Last Updated: March 31, 2023 Fact Checked

Transom Definition

Transom uses, can a transom get damaged, can you repair a transom, caring for a transom.

This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff writer, Devin McSween . Devin McSween is a wikiHow Staff Writer. With a background in psychology, she has presented her research in social psychology at a variety of conferences and has contributed to several manuscripts for publication. At wikiHow, Devin combines her love of writing and research with the goal of bringing accessible information to wikiHow readers that will help them learn and grow. She earned her BS in Psychology from the College of Charleston. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 14,891 times. Learn more...

You might be familiar with the hull and stern on a boat, but what is a transom? And is it important? On most boats, the transom is the vertical reinforcement at the stern of the boat. There’s definitely a lot of terminology to learn and remember when boating, so we’re here to tell you more about what the transom is and what it does. Then, to help you boat safely, we’ll tell you what to look out for and do if your transom gets damaged.

Things You Should Know

• A transom is a flat structure at the back of a boat that motors are usually attached to. It reinforces and supports the back of the boat.
• Over time, stress from the motors can cause cracks to form on your transom that water leaks into. As more water enters, the transom can rot.
• The best way to repair a damaged transom is to replace it. Once water enters and rots the transom, its structure is difficult to fix.
• To care for your transom, check it regularly for cracks and peeling seals. If you suspect it's wet, get a professional to take a sample.

• Lots of boaters put the name of their boat on the transom, which is another great way to tell where it is.
• Transom and stern are separate things, though they’re often used interchangeably. The stern is a direction, while the transom is a structure on the boat.
• Transoms can come in many different shapes and sizes. Depending on the type of boat and its size, they might be rounded or square. They also aren’t all flat, as some are angled upwards or downwards.

• If the boat has a motor, the sturdiness of the transom also helps to absorb the motor’s energy.

• The size of the transom often depends on how many motors are on the boat. A boat with 2 or more motors puts a lot of stress on the transom, so it needs to be thicker.

• Any damage to your hull can damage your transom, too. Scratching the bottom of your boat when you’re in too shallow water or hitting debris at high speeds can crack your transom.

• Replacing your transom with a professional can cost around $1,500 to $5,000, depending on the size of your boat. While that’s certainly not cheap, it’s super important that you have an undamaged transom to boat safely!

• Rust stains below screws and bolts, warping, and cracks are also common signs your transom is rotting.

Expert Q&A

You might also like.

• ↑ https://www.townandtourist.com/what-is-the-transom-on-a-boat/
• ↑ https://boatbuy.com.au/wet-transom-truths/
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH5CPO-upOA
• ↑ https://www.boatsafe.com/transom-saver/

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competition sailing yacht rocket51

Overall length : 15.5 m Width : 4.32 m Draft : 3.5 m

Born from our determination to create the world’s fastest race boat on corrected time. This is a long story of innovation and minute attention to detail, backed by the America’s Cup expertise of Botin Partners.The team settled on a ...

catamaran sailing yacht ZERO CAT

Overall length : 29.4 m Width : 12.3 m

Sunreef Yachts reveals the first images of the Sunreef Zero Cat superyacht. Measuring over 90ft the sailing catamaran concept currently developed by the shipyard’s R&D department will be able to produce ...

cruising sailing yacht 530

Overall length : 16.4 m Width : 4.99 m Draft : 2.3 m

... legendary Dufour Performance and Grand Large ranges come together as one. The ultimate merger of two worlds has created a sailboat with incomparable characteristics. The Dufour 530 is a vibrant reflection of our ...

cruising sailing yacht 56

Overall length : 17.2 m Width : 5.05 m Draft : 2.5 m

... ocean. Every day, we strive to design yachts to make your dreams of offshore adventures a reality. A peerless yacht with stunning aesthetics, the Dufour 56 is designed, first and foremost, for high-sea ...

cruising sailing yacht 61

Overall length : 19.2 m Width : 5.48 m Draft : 2.8 m

DUFOUR'S SUPERB FLAGSHIP YACHTS FOR GENUINE SENSATIONS Once more, Dufour combines comfort with performance in the design of the new 61. The result is pure harmony to enhance your incomparable sailing ...

cruising sailing yacht 55

Overall length : 16.93 m Width : 4.99 m Displacement : 18,542 kg

Innovative, bold, and original, this Jeanneau Yachts 55 is a direct and uncompromising response to meet the needs of sailors who love to travel and who appreciate beauty. This sailing yacht ...

cruising sailing yacht 60

Overall length : 18.28 m Width : 5.2 m Draft : 2.55 m

... ergonomic design that adapts to suit your preferences... with the Jeanneau Yachts 60, you benefit from a multitude of possible configurations and options, enabling you to give your sailboat a unique personality ...

cruising sailing yacht 65

Overall length : 20.7 m Width : 5.4 m Draft : 2.95, 2.2 m

Flagship of the line, the Jeanneau Yachts 65 targets excellence in comfort, in equipment, and in the feeling of spaciousness on board, for you to experience the cruises of your dreams and inimitable moments to savour ...

cruising sailing yacht C57

Overall length : 16.16 m Width : 5.28 m Draft : 1.99, 2.52 m

... intelligent features which offer the maximum enjoyment on and by the water. 100% MADE IN GERMANY. FOR 100% PURE JOY. A BAVARIA yacht is the perfect interaction of many éléments. Everything is built around the extensive ...

cruising sailing yacht C50

Overall length : 14.99 m Width : 5 m Draft : 1.85, 2.3 m

... benchmark in the 50-foot sailing yacht category. It offers an élégant, fiat hull line and stunningly dynamic silhouette. Everything is clear and minimalist, reflecting our understanding of good, modem ...

catamaran sailing yacht Ocean Class

Overall length : 15.75 m Width : 7.83 m Draft : 1.17, 2.49 m

... pleasure of sailing at wind-speed, in absolute comfort and total safety. With all the marine qualities inherited from CATANA, the Ocean Class also offers an innovative concept of unique living space on a blue water ...

fast cruising sailing yacht GS 52

Overall length : 17.05 m Width : 5.15 m Draft : 2.9 m

... in 1987, this new addition marks the return of a legendary model. At the time, approximately sixty units were produced of a yacht described as “a masterpiece destined to last”. Prophetic words indeed: the new Grand Soleil ...

cruising sailing yacht 51

Overall length : 15.55 m Width : 4.85 m Draft : 2.45, 2.05, 3.2 m

... 51 is a no-compromise sailing yacht , a pure sailor, more a sportscar than a limousine. It is designed to be reactive to steer and responsive to sail adjustments, bringing the sensations of sailing ...

cruising sailing yacht X5⁶

Overall length : 17.25 m Width : 4.9 m Draft : 2.5, 2.9, 3.3 m

... design philosophy was very clear from the outset - like all our luxury yachts , we place a huge emphasis on giving the owner a superb and comfortable sailing experience, on a yacht that ...

cruising sailing yacht 50CS

Overall length : 15.46 m Width : 4.9 m Draft : 2.35 m

... of Contest Yachts , with each model over the years most popular for the perfect balance of sailing ease, performance and onboard comforts. Two super suites and a third cabin option, yet still a yacht ...

cruising sailing yacht 63CS

Overall length : 19.29 m Width : 5.5 m Draft : 2.9 m

... family and friends in control, working the yacht , enjoying the entirety of the sailing and the huge space both above and below deck. It’s about smart sailing with simple but sophisticated ...

cruising sailing yacht 55CS

Overall length : 17 m Width : 5.02 m Draft : 2.55 m

... That's never the case at Contest Yachts , and in the Contest 55CS we have gone to new lengths to show just how aesthetics and practicality really can make perfect partners. How for different types of ownership a yacht ...

cruising-racing sailing yacht A62

Overall length : 18.6 m Width : 5.3 m Draft : 3 m

... make it a genuinely innovative sailing yacht . It is fast, responsive, fun yet easy to sail, safe, comfortable, with plenty of space and volume, both inside and outside. The design was developed using ...

cruising sailing yacht A66

Overall length : 20.46 m Width : 5.4 m Draft : 3.2 m

... Nauta Design and Reichel/Pugh. Nauta describes the new 66’ yacht thus: “Modernity, ease of handling and seduction are the key words for the design we created for Advanced Yachts . We designed the yacht ...

cruising sailing yacht A80

Overall length : 23.98 m Width : 6.2 m Draft : 3.5 m

... Pugh, and Italian yacht designers Mario Pedol and Massimo Gino of Nauta Yachts . The development and optimization of the A80’s innovative hull shape benefits from Reichel/Pugh’s experience designing the ...

catamaran sailing yacht 1600

Overall length : 16.1 m Width : 8.1 m Draft : 0.6, 2.6 m

The 1600 reflects our aspiration to create the ideal cruiser in every aspect: this is the ultimate offshore cruising catamaran. POINTING ABILITY & SHALLOW DRAFT THE ULTIMATE OFFSHORE CRUISING CATAMARAN Captive daggerboards, which ...

cruising sailing yacht 52

Overall length : 15.9 m Width : 3.4 m Draft : 2.2 m

... short-handed, performance racing yacht , a Spirit 52 has previously won the single-handed, round the island race at Antigua Classic Week. With a top speed of 16 knots, the Spirit 52 is one of Spirit Yachts ’ ...

cruising sailing yacht 74

Overall length : 22.7 m Width : 4.8 m Draft : 3 m

... specifications. Spirit Power All the style, elegance and craftsmanship of Spirit’s modern classic sailing yachts applied to a portfolio of sophisticated motor yachts from tenders ...

Overall length : 19.7 m Width : 4 m Draft : 3 m

Designed for bluewater sailing , the Spirit 65 has also proven herself on the race circuit and is a regular competitor at UK and Caribbean classic regattas. Offering a blend of style and practicality, the 19m Spirit ...

cruising sailing yacht 50 HURLANTS

Overall length : 16 m Width : 5.2 m Draft : 1.85 m

... of the world without barriers. The possibility of a custom design is very important to META YACHTS . None of our designs are set in stone. META YACHTS is open to suggestions and offers ...

cruising sailing yacht 50

Overall length : 16.3 m Width : 5.2 m Draft : 1.8 m

... 50 is a sailing boat from the META range, developed since 2020. A first class offshore sailboat, the META 50 is designed for long distance cruising. Designed for a round-the-world trip, safety and comfort are essential ...

cruising sailing yacht

Overall length : 17.5 m Width : 4.95 m

... collaboration has given birth to many projects and the Custom Yachts 17.50 is the perfect illustration of these values. The possibility of a custom design is still very important to META YACHTS . We ...

classic sailing yacht S/V BOUNTY

Overall length : 17.5 m

Specifications: LOD- 57'6" LOA- 66' LWL- 50' Beam- 13'4" Draft- 6'3" Sail Area- 1500 sq ft Fuel- 200 gallons Water- 250 gallons Cold Molded Hull Perkins 90hp Diese

catamaran sailing yacht Code C.69

Overall length : 69'00" Width : 31'06" Draft : 3'10", 5'10"

... designed by François Pérus & Romain Scolari. The Code C.69 is the first cruising racing catamaran built by Black Pepper Yachts . Her conception is the result of many years of reflection at Black Pepper; she is also ...

ocean cruising sailing yacht Code 2

Overall length : 64'07" Width : 17'04" Draft : 5'07", 15'00"

This magnificent, luxury cruising racing yacht follows the exclusive style of Black Pepper’s® “Codes”. Inspired by the latest-generation of Imoca 60 ocean racing hulls, she is destined for offshore cruising ...

cruising sailing yacht Code ​3

Overall length : 82'03" Width : 21'03" Draft : 11'00", 18'00"

This recent cruising racing yacht is a veritable masterpiece of technology, design and attitude, revolutionizing the world of Maxi yachts … Wide hull, inverted sheer, inverted bow, small dog house, huge ...

cruising sailing yacht 70

Overall length : 21 m Width : 2.74 m Draft : 4 m

Comfort design and performance are ideally combined in this project, from its natural light luminous interior through the sizable deck glass surfaces. The deck layout is divided into distinct areas offering while under sail at once ...

catamaran sailing yacht R6

Overall length : 17.07 m

cruising sailing yacht TOFINOU 16

Overall length : 15.9 m

Tofinou 16 is a unique yacht intended for day cruises or longer-term getaways, and which fully benefits from the features that made the luxury brand a success: the lines and performance of a classic sailing ...

cruising sailing yacht SOU’WESTER 53

Overall length : 52'04"

... new Hinckley Sou’wester 53 carbon epoxy sailing yacht is the first to deliver modern, family sailing with a beautiful inside-out layout so you can enjoy it all together. Experience the ...

cruising sailing yacht 56MS

... this growing industry. However the roots of the successful bluewater poweryacht franchise actually lie under an impressive sailing legacy that saw the construction of over 250 cruising sailboats. PAE’s Mason line was ...

cruising sailing yacht CENTURION 57

Overall length : 17.7 m

... the luxury yacht market. Powerful, thoroughbred, as manoeuvrable as a racing yacht yet as comfortable, elegant and luxurious as a super yacht , the Centurion 57 is the quintessence ...

cruising sailing yacht 53

Overall length : 16.18 m Width : 14'03" Draft : 6'00"

... performance, the Kanter 53 also boasts the safety and comfort expected of a world-class yacht . As performance and ease of operation are crucial to the success of a cruising yacht , the Kanter 53 was ...

cruising sailing yacht BOUGAINVILLAEA 62

Overall length : 62'01" Width : 15'07" Draft : 6'01"

... spectacular off-shore, world-cruising yacht . Beyond featuring truly exhilarating sailing speeds, great stability and an unmatched level of comfort, the Bougainvillaea 62 is also one of the safest blue-water ...

cruising sailing yacht BOUGAINVILLAEA 65

Overall length : 19.81 m Width : 16'01" Draft : 7'08"

... world cruising yachts , the Bougainvillaea 65 is one of Kanter's widely acclaimed, custom-designed and built, light-displacement ocean voyaging yachts . Like her "Bermuda Series" sisters, the Bougainvillaea ...

trimaran sailing yacht 52

Overall length : 52'00" Width : 28'10" Draft : 6'02"

... and elegance. Moving inside and on the deck is smooth and safe. It boasts remarkable seaworthiness, performance (both sailing and motoring), and comfort. She is easily handled by a small crew. The hulls of NEEL trimarans ...

racing sailing yacht OCEAN 82

Overall length : 26 m Motor power : 135 kW Fuel capacity : 1,000 l

... self-sufficient sailing yacht ever made of its size. The OCEAN SAIL 82 measuring 25-meters in length, is not only a fast and stable sailing yacht , its also has many ...

racing sailing yacht OCEAN 72

Overall length : 22.25 m Width : 5.7 m Draft : 3 m

... technological developments in the field of self-sufficient yachts surpassing its competition by years. DECKS LAYOUT From the first day on the goal was to design the best electric performance yacht ...

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20 Best Small Sailboats for the Weekender

• By Mark Pillsbury
• Updated: August 4, 2021

In order to go cruising, most of us require a sailboat with a head, a galley, and bunks. The boat, likely a 30-footer and more often a 40-footer, will have electronics for navigation and entertainment, refrigeration if the trip is longer than a coastal hop, an engine for light wind, and, depending on our appetites for food and fun, perhaps a genset to power our toys and appliances.

To go sailing , however, all we really need is a hull, mast, rudder, and sail. To experience the pure joy of sheeting in and scooting off across a lake, bay, or even the open ocean, there’s nothing better than a small sailboat – we’re talking sailboats under 25 feet. You can literally reach out and touch the water as it flows past. You instantly feel every puff of breeze and sense every change in trim.

Some of the boats in this list are new designs, others are time-tested models from small sailboat manufacturers, but every one is easy to rig, simple to sail, and looks like a whole lot of fun either for a solo outing on a breezy afternoon or to keep family and friends entertained throughout your entire sailing season. This list is made up of all types of sailboats , and if you’re looking for a list of some of the best small sailboats for beginners, you’ll find exactly that here.

Any one of these popular boats could be labeled as a trailerable sailboat, daysailer, or even a weekender sailboat. And while most would be labeled as a one or two person sailboat, some could comfortably fit three or even four people.

Marblehead 22 Daysailer

If you have an eye for elegant lines and your heart goes pitter-patter over just the right amount of overhang beneath a counter transom, the Marblehead 22 daysailer, designed by Doug Zurn and built by Samoset Boatworks in Boothbay, Maine, will definitely raise your pulse. Traditional-looking above the waterline and modern beneath, the cold-molded hull sports a deep bulb keel and a Hall Spars carbon-fiber mast with a wishbone rig and square-top main. The 11-foot-9-inch cockpit can seat a crowd, and a small cuddy forward will let you stow your friends’ gear for the day. samosetboatworks.com

Catalina 22 Sport

Many a harbor plays host to an active fleet of Catalina 22s, one of the most popular small sailboats over the years, given its basic amenities and retractable keel, which allows it to be easily trailered. Recently, the company introduced the Catalina 22 Sport, an updated design that can compete with the older 22s. The boat features a retractable lead keel; a cabin that can sleep four, with a forward hatch for ventilation; and a fractional rig with a mainsail and a roller-furling jib. Lifelines, a swim ladder, and an engine are options, as are cloth cushions; vinyl cushions are standard. The large cockpit will seat a crowd or let a mom-and-pop crew stretch out and enjoy their sail. It’s clear why the Catalina 22 is one of the best sailboats under 25 feet. catalinayachts.com

With its large, open-transom cockpit and sloop rig, the Hunter 22 makes a comfortable daysailer for family and friends. But with its cuddy cabin, twin bunks, optional electrical system, opening screened ports, and portable toilet, a parent and child or a couple could comfortably slip away for an overnight or weekend. Add in the optional performance package, which includes an asymmetric spinnaker, a pole, and a mainsheet traveler, and you could be off to the races. The boat features a laminated fiberglass hull and deck, molded-in nonskid, and a hydraulic lifting centerboard. Mount a small outboard on the stern bracket, and you’re set to go. marlow-hunter.com

Not sure whether you want to race, cruise or just go out for an afternoon sail? Since 1958, sailors have been having a ball aboard the Uffa Fox/George O’Day-designed Daysailer. Fox, who in the 1950s was on the cutting edge of planning-dinghy design, collaborated with Fall River, Massachusetts boatbuilder O’Day Corp. to build the 16-foot Daysailer, a boat that features a slippery hull and a small cuddy cabin that covers the boat roughly from the mast forward. Thousands of Daysailers were built by various builders, and they can be found used for quite affordable prices. There are active racing fleets around the US, and new Daysailers are still in production today, built by Cape Cod Ship Building. capecodshipbuilding.com

BayRaider from Swallow Boats

Easy to rig and trailer, the BayRaider from England’s Swallow Yachts is a relative newcomer to the small-boat market in the United States. Nearly all of its 19 feet 9 inches is open cockpit, though a spray hood can be added to keep the forward sections dry. The BayRaider is ketch-rigged with a gunter-style mainmast. The topmast and mizzen are both carbon-fiber, which is an option for the mainmast as well. The BayRaider can be sailed with a dry hull in lighter conditions or with 300 pounds of water ballast to increase its stability. With the centerboard and hinged rudder raised, the boat can maneuver in even the thinnest water.

$28,900, (904) 234-8779, swallowyachts.com

Big fun can come in small packages, especially if your vessel of choice happens to be the 12 ½-foot Beetle Cat. Designed by John Beetle and first built in 1921, the wooden shallow draft sailboat is still in production today in Wareham, Massachusetts at the Beetle Boat Shop. With a draft of just 2 feet, the boat is well-suited for shallow bays, but equally at home in open coastal waters. The single gaff-rigged sail provides plenty of power in light air and can be quickly reefed down to handle a blow. In a word, sailing a Beetle Cat is fun. beetlecat.com

West Wight Potter P 19

With berths for four and a workable galley featuring a cooler, a sink, and a stove, West Wight Potter has packed a lot into its 19-foot-long P 19. First launched in 1971, this is a line of boats that’s attracted a true following among trailer-sailors. The P 19′s fully retractable keel means that you can pull up just about anywhere and go exploring. Closed-cell foam fore and aft makes the boat unsinkable, and thanks to its hard chine, the boat is reportedly quite stable under way. westwightpotter.com

NorseBoat 17.5

Designed for rowing and sailing (a motor mount is optional), the Canadian-built NorseBoat 17.5—one of which was spotted by a CW editor making its way through the Northwest Passage with a two-man crew—features an open cockpit, a carbon-fiber mast, and a curved-gaff rig, with an optional furling headsail set on a sprit. The lapstrake hull is fiberglass; the interior is ply and epoxy. The boat comes standard with two rowing stations and one set of 9-foot oars. The boat is designed with positive flotation and offers good load-carrying capacity, which you could put to use if you added the available canvas work and camping tent. NorseBoats offers a smaller sibling, the 12.5, as well; both are available in kit form.

$19,000, (902) 659-2790, norseboat.com

Montgomery 17

Billed as a trailerable pocket cruiser, the Montgomery 17 is a stout-looking sloop designed by Lyle Hess and built out of fiberglass in Ontario, California, by Montgomery Boats. With a keel and centerboard, the boat draws just under 2 feet with the board up and can be easily beached when you’re gunkholing. In the cuddy cabin you’ll find sitting headroom, a pair of bunks, a portable toilet, optional shore and DC power, and an impressive amount of storage space. The deck-stepped mast can be easily raised using a four-part tackle. The builder reports taking his own boat on trips across the Golfo de California and on visits to California’s coastal islands. Montgomery makes 15-foot and 23-foot models, as well. If you’re in search of a small sailboat with a cabin, the Montgomery 17 has to be on your wish list.

With long overhangs and shiny brightwork, the CW Hood 32 is on the larger end of the daysailer spectrum. Designers Chris Hood and Ben Stoddard made a conscious decision to forego a cabin and head in favor of an open cockpit big enough to bring 4 or 5 friends or family out for an afternoon on the water. The CW Hood 32 is sleek and graceful through the water and quick enough to do some racing, but keeps things simple with a self-tacking jib and controls that can be lead back to a single-handed skipper. A top-furling asymmetrical, electric sail drive and Torqeedo outboard are all optional. The CW Hood 32 makes for a great small family sailboat.  cwhoodyachts.com

Sun Cat from Com-Pac

Shallow U.S. East Coast bays and rock-strewn coasts have long been graced by cat boats, whose large, gaff-rigged mainsails proved simple and powerful both on the wind and, better yet, when reaching and running. The 17-foot-4-inch Sun Cat, built by Com-Pac Yachts, updates the classic wooden cat with its fiberglass hull and deck and the easy-to-step Mastender Rigging System, which incorporates a hinged tabernacle to make stepping the mast a one-person job. If you want a personal sailboat ideal for solo sailing, the Sun Can is a great choice. Belowdecks, the twin 6-foot-5-inch berths and many other features and amenities make this cat a willing weekender.

$19,800, (727) 443-4408, com-pacyachts.com

Catalina 16.5

The Catalina 16.5 sits right in the middle of Catalina Yachts’ line of small sailboats, which range from the 12.5 to the 22 Capri and Sport, and it comes in both an easy-to-trailer centerboard model and a shoal-draft fixed-keel configuration. With the fiberglass board up, the 17-foot-2-inch boat draws just 5 inches of water; with the board down, the 4-foot-5-inch draft suggests good windward performance. Hull and deck are hand-laminated fiberglass. The roomy cockpit is self-bailing, and the bow harbors a good-sized storage area with a waterproof hatch. catalinayachts.com

No roundup of best small sailboats (trailerable and fun too) would be complete without a mention of the venerable Hobie 16, which made its debut in Southern California way back in 1969. The company has introduced many other multihulls since, but more than 100,000 of the 16s have been launched, a remarkable figure. The Hobie’s asymmetric fiberglass-and-foam hulls eliminate the need for daggerboards, and with its kick-up rudders, the 16 can be sailed right up to the beach. Its large trampoline offers lots of space to move about or a good place to plant one’s feet when hanging off the double trapezes with a hull flying. The boat comes with a main and a jib; a spinnaker, douse kit, trailer, and beach dolly are optional features. hobiecat.com

Novice sailors or old salts looking for simplicity could both enjoy sailing the Hunter 15. With a fiberglass hull and deck and foam flotation, the boat is sturdily built. The ample freeboard and wide beam provide stability under way, and the heavy-duty rubrail and kick-up rudder mean that you won’t have to worry when the dock looms or the going grows shallow. Both the 15 and its slightly larger 18-foot sibling come standard with roller-furling jibs.

$6,900/$9,500 (boat-show prices for the 15 and 18 includes trailers), (386) 462-3077, marlow-hunter.com

Super Snark

Under various owners, the Snark brand of sailboats, now built by Meyers Boat Co., has been around since the early 1970s. The Super Snark, at 11 feet, is a simple, easily car-topped daysailer that’s fit out with a lateen rig and sail. Billed as unsinkable, the five boats in the company’s line are built with E.P.S. foam, with the external hull and deck vacuum-formed to the core using an A.B.S. polymer. The Super Snark weighs in at 50 pounds, and with a payload capacity of 310 pounds, the boat can carry two.

$970, (800) 247-6275, meyersboat.com

Norseboat 21.5

Built in Canada, the NorseBoat 21.5 is a rugged looking craft that comes in a couple of configurations: one with an open cockpit and small doghouse, and another with a smaller cockpit and cabin that houses a double berth for two adults and optional quarter berths for the kids. Both carry NorseBoat’s distinctive looking carbon fiber gaff-rigged mast with main and jib (a sprit-set drifter is optional), and come with a ballasted stub keel and centerboard. Because of its lightweight design, the boat can be rowed and is easily trailered.

$36,000 (starting), 902-659-2790, norseboat.com

Flying Scot

Talk about time-tested, the 19-foot Flying Scot has been in production since 1957 and remains a popular design today. Sloop rigged, with a conventional spinnaker for downwind work, the boat is an easily sailed family boat as well as a competitive racer, with over 130 racing fleets across the U.S. Its roomy cockpit can seat six to eight, though the boat is often sailed by a pair or solo. Hull and deck are a fiberglass and balsa core sandwich. With the centerboard up, the boat draws only eight inches. Though intended to be a daysailer, owners have rigged boom tents and berths for overnight trips, and one adventurous Scot sailor cruised his along inland waterways from Philadelphia to New Orleans.

Known primarily for its line of racing dinghys, RS Sailing also builds the 16-foot, 4-inch Venture, which it describes as a cruising and training dinghy. The Venture features a large, self-draining cockpit that will accommodate a family or pack of kids. A furling jib and mainsail with slab reefing come standard with the boat; a gennaker and trapeze kit are options, as is an outboard motor mount and transom swim ladder. The deck and hull are laid up in a fiberglass and Coremat sandwich. The Venture’s designed to be both a good performer under sail, but also stable, making it a good boat for those learning the sport.

$14,900, 203-259-7808, rssailing.com

Topper makes a range of mono- and multihull rotomolded boats, but the model that caught one editor’s eye at Strictly Sail Chicago was the Topaz Taz. At 9 feet, 8 inches LOA and weighing in at 88 pounds, the Taz is not going to take the whole crowd out for the day. But, with the optional mainsail and jib package (main alone is for a single child), the Taz can carry two or three kids or an adult and one child, and would make a fun escape pod when tied behind the big boat and towed to some scenic harbor. The hull features Topper’s Trilam construction, a plastic and foam sandwich that creates a boat that’s stiff, light, and durable, and shouldn’t mind being dragged up on the beach when it’s time for a break.

$2,900 (includes main and jib), 410-286-1960, topazsailboats.com

WindRider WRTango

WRTango, a fast, sturdy, 10-foot trimaran that’s easy to sail, is the newest portable craft from WindRider International. It joins a line that includes the WR16 and WR17 trimarans. The Tango features forward-facing seating, foot-pedal steering, and a low center of gravity that mimics the sensation of sitting in a kayak. It weighs 125 pounds (including the outriggers and carbon-fiber mast), is extremely stable, and has single-sheet sail control. The six-inch draft and kick-up rudder make it great for beaching, while the hull and outriggers are made of rotomolded polyethylene, so it can withstand running into docks and being dragged over rocks.

$3,000, 612-338-2170, windrider.com

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What sailboats have step-thru transoms?

• Thread starter Ward H
• Start date Dec 1, 2012
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Admiral asked me today to "Is it possible to get a sailboat with an open back to make it easy to get in and out of the water?" Googled and didn't come up with much so I ask the question here. In the 25 to 28' range, can anyone recomend sailboats that have open (sugar scoop?) transoms or step thru transoms w/ or w/o door? Thanks  

http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_album&Itemid=278&catid=65&page=model Most of the newer Hunters in that size range have that feature.. The 280s are very nice http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&Itemid=278&pid=11915&page=sshow&mn=&catid=64  

Catalina 250, 270 and 28, Capri 26  

My 1990 Hunter 27 has a sugar scoop transom. What price range are you looking at?  

Are you a trailer sailor? If not your world is fairly large for open transoms. Maybe a little less so with the trailerable boats. Hunter & Catalina's all have them for many years back.  

If your a trailer sailor the Hunter 260 has a sugar scoop.  

Anchor Down

Anchor Down said: And if you're not a trailer-sailor, it still has a sugar scoop. Click to expand

Tried trailer sailing, choose to go the marina route instead. Budget would be <$15k. Happy with an older boat. Shoal keel prefered, pleanty of skinny water where I sail. I have seen some newer Hunters with the sugar scoop transom but they are out of our price range. Are they found on boats built between 1980 and 1990? Guessing newer than that would be out of our price range. Thanks Ward  

I know it's a little bigger than your looking but the King 40 has the whole cockpit open to the stern a really cool design  

Scott T-Bird

Here's a Hunter 265 ... In Mystic, Conn. for $7000. It is a fin keel with a shallow draft, perfect for your waters. It is a 1988 model and has the step-through transom. It fits your budget nicely and leaves you plenty of money for upgrades. I think the drawbacks are outboard motor and tiller steered, but many people consider those features as more attractive than the alternative. There is one of these on our lake that was for sale a few years ago. While it was in 'tired' condition, it is still a very nice boat. It was sold for quite a bit less than $7,000 as far as I know. I think this boat would be right up your alley! http://newport.boatshed.com/hunter_265-boat-124566.html  

Bad Obsession

try www.yachtworld.com Set the search perimeters and then take a look at all the different boats that come up!  

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My Cruiser Life Magazine

What Is the Transom on a Boat? EXPLAINED

Transom is an old word deeply rooted in tradition, like many nautical terms. The word is also used in architecture in a similar function. So what is the boat transom, and why are they important?

The backend of a boat is called the transom. The boat’s backend has a fancy name just like all other things nautical and on boats. This definition is important to understanding the transom in boat design since it’s usually a vertical panel of the boat’s hull set crosswise to the sides.

Here’s a quick look at the origins of the word and the different types of derrieres sported by all the sorts of vessels on the Seven Seas.

Table of Contents

Why is the transom important, what is the transom made of, small boats (e.g., dinghies, small fishing boats), medium boats (e.g., recreational runabouts, center consoles), large boats (e.g., yachts, sailboats), specific measurements, factors influencing transom size, canoe sterns or double enders, raked – classic transom stern with overhangs, flat transom sailboats, reverse transom designs, other boat transom features, flat transom powerboats, outboard motor transom, how to measure transom height, what is transom height, boat transom angle, outboard motor transom height, 1. assess the damage, 2. decide on diy vs. professional repair, 3. prepare for repair, 4. repair process for minor damage, 5. major structural repair or replacement, 6. waterproofing and sealing, 7. inspection and testing, 8. regular maintenance and inspection, is transom the same as the poop deck, the boat’s transom – demystified, faqs (frequently asked questions), what is the transom.

Like all other things nautical and on boats, the boat’s backend has a fancy name. It’s called the boat transom. The word derives from as far back as 1300s Middle English and can trace its roots even further back to Latin and Old French words that meant transverse or crosswise.

This definition is important to understanding the transom in boat design since it’s usually a vertical panel of the boat’s hull set crosswise to the sides.

A similar word in nautical lingo is “stern.” Stern is more of a direction, though, as in setting the “stern lines” when docking or “powering astern” when driving in reverse. In contrast, the boat transom is a part of the boat located on the stern.

Depending on the type of boat in question, whether it is a small boat or a large boat, the boat transom might support some important gear. For example, small powerboats often have their outboard motors mounted on their transoms. Many sailboats mount rudders on the transom. Larger vessels may support swim platforms back there.

What is the transom for? Well, the transom serves several important functions:

• Structural support – The transom provides critical structural reinforcement and helps support the shape and integrity of the stern. It braces the sides of the hull.
• Mounting platform – The transom provides a mounting location for the engine(s), rudder(s), steering gear, and other hardware that needs to be positioned at the stern. Holes and hardware can be mounted into/onto the transom.
• Lift point – Lifting slings are often attached to the transom to allow lifting the boat. The transom safely distributes the lifting forces across its width.
• Work platform – On smaller boats, the transom can provide a work platform for tasks like removing/storing gear, boarding, washing, maintenance, etc.
• Drainage – Scuppers and drain holes are often built into the transom to allow water to safely drain off the deck from the stern.

On most boats, the design and engineering of the transom is absolutely essential.

Boat transoms are typically constructed out of the following materials:

• Wood – Usually marine-grade plywood or teak, this was historically the most common material for transoms. It’s easy to cut and shape, provides good support, and allows for mounting hardware. However, wood requires a lot of maintenance to prevent rot over time.
• Fiberglass – Now the most popular choice for transom construction. It’s durable and waterproof, providing excellent structural support. Fiberglass doesn’t rot and requires little maintenance. It can be molded with built-in contours. Gelcoat provides a nice finish.
• Aluminum – Aluminum transoms offer the strength of metal with the corrosion resistance that’s essential around water and salt. They need very little maintenance and hold up well to impacts. However, they require specialized fabrication and are difficult to repair if bent or damaged.
• Composites – Some modern transoms use advanced composite materials like carbon fiber or other epoxy resins for very high strength weight ratios. These require specialized construction methods and repairs can be difficult and expensive.

The transom material is chosen based on considerations like cost, weight, strength needs, corrosion resistance, ease of fabrication, and repair-ability. High performance offshore power boats may use exotic composite transoms, while small recreational and fishing boats still often rely on versatile and repairable wood or fiberglass transoms.

How Big is the Boat Transom?

The size of a transom on a boat varies widely depending on the type and size of the boat itself. There’s no one-size-fits-all measurement, as the transom must be proportionate to the vessel’s dimensions, intended use, and the type of propulsion system it accommodates.

• Width: Can range from a few feet to the full width of the boat, typically up to 6 feet for very small boats.
• Height: The height above the waterline can be as low as a few inches to about a foot, depending on the boat design and the need to prevent water ingress.
• Width: Generally follows the beam (width) of the boat at its stern, which can be anywhere from 6 to 12 feet.
• Height: The transom height from the deck to the bottom of the boat (not including the motor) might range from 1 to 3 feet, with variations for specific uses (e.g., fishing, watersports).
• Width: For larger vessels, the transom can be quite wide, matching the beam at the stern, which could exceed 15 feet or more.
• Height: Height can vary significantly, with some transoms extending two stories or more, incorporating features like swim platforms, boarding areas, or even garages for smaller watercraft.
• Short Shaft: About 15 inches
• Long Shaft: About 20 inches
• Extra-Long Shaft: 25 inches or more
• These measurements are important for matching the motor shaft length to ensure optimal performance and prevent damage.
• Purpose of the Boat: Fishing boats, for example, may have lower transoms for easy access to the water, while speedboats might have higher transoms to accommodate powerful engines and enhance performance.
• Type of Waters: Boats designed for calm waters can have differently designed transoms compared to those intended for rough seas, where a higher transom may prevent water ingress.
• Aesthetics and Design: The overall design ethos of the boat will influence transom dimensions, balancing functionality with the desired appearance.

Sailboat Transom Designs

Nothing brings a sailboat design together quite like the boat transom does. Of course, there are many different designs out there, but to some extent, the boat transom is a trendsetter.

For example, in the 1970s, it was fashionable for bluewater cruising sailboats to have canoe-style sterns. Sometimes called double-enders, these boats were sturdy and solid. They’re trademarks of the Valiants and Hans Christian fleets.

Today, the sleeker looks of the reverse or flat transom have taken over. This is mostly due to the changes in yacht design over the last few decades. Today, emphasis is placed on wide cockpits with walk-through transoms and big swim steps.

The boat transom is just one feature in the overall design of a yacht. Therefore, it’s impossible to draw any big conclusions from this one feature. It’s even impossible to declare one better than the other.

What we can say with confidence is what we like. Some love the salty looks of those canoe sterns, while others find them cramped and dated. Some sailors want sugar scoop-style boat transoms with a big swim platform, and others want the curvy lines of a heart or champagne flute-shaped rear end.

Bringing the stern of a sailboat (and sometimes a powerboat) back to a point like a canoe lends a salty and traditional look to any vessel. Canoe sterns are often compared to transom stern sailboats. It implies seaworthiness, although whether or not it provides any real benefits is up for much debate.

Canoe sterns are common on many of the cutters from the 1960s and 1970s, including famous designs like the Westsail 32, Valiant 40, or Hans Christian 32. On smaller vessels, it’s also often combined with a hung rudder, such as on the Bristol Channel Cutter, Pacific Seacraft Moriah, or the Morris Francis.

The rake of the transom refers to the angle at which it extends afterward. If a transom is raked, it angles away from the vessel. If it is flat, it is vertical. And if it angles in toward the boat, the boat transom is said to be reversed.

Raked transoms, combined with long overhangs, were popular on racing boats for most of the 20th century. This resulted from limits on waterline length placed by racing rule committees. So designers added long overhangs that would add to the waterline as the boat healed.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Clay Burkhalter (@burkhalterphotos)

Flat transoms have a distinctive look and allow a boat to carry the boat beam farther aft. This is great for having bigger cockpits and more hull volume in the rear of the boat.

Flat transoms are an iconic feature of Island Packet sailboats, which is a great sailboat to live in , but they’ve been used in many others as well. The Passport 40, a well-regarded Bob Perry design, has a particularly graceful one.

Flat transoms are very popular in modern yacht design, with Beneteau , Catalina , and Jeanneau offering yachts or sailboats with wide, flat transoms with rear door fold-down swim steps.

Reverse transoms angle forward toward the bow of the boat. Several famous designs carried reverse transoms, like Sabres and Hylas yachts.

Sugar Scoop Transom

Sugar scoops are reverse transoms that are hollow in the center line, allowing space to design in a built-in swim platform and stairs. This is very popular on catamarans.

Transom-Hung Rudders

Many boats include an externally mounted or transom-hung rudder.

Wineglass or Heart-Shaped Transom

One unique and eye-catching transom design is the heart-shaped transom, which is usually raked and sometimes includes a prominent overhang.

A few examples of boats with beautiful behinds like this include the Shannon 38 and the Cabo Rico 38 and 42.

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Power Yacht Transom Designs

Enough about sailboats of all types , it’s time to get somewhere already. Power vessels have transoms too, and they’re just as valid and appreciated.

Flat transoms are likely the most common powerboat feature. For one thing, this suits the planning hull form well. Where sailboats come to a fine exit at the rear, a planning boat will need a broad wetted surface to support the boat’s weight at speed. The result is a flat and broad transom sported by all sorts of vessels.

Flat transoms often support an added-on swim platform. Many smaller boats have a flat transom where outboard motors are mounted. An outboard bracket is used if the motor doesn’t attach directly to the transom.

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A fantail is a semi-circular aft deck, so the transom is curved. It’s a classic look that you’d find on the back end of the HMS Titanic or other classic wooden yachts of the early 1900s.

View this post on Instagram A post shared by Seattle Ship Canal Spotter (@seattleshipcanalspotter)

Powerboats and fishing vessels with outboard motors will hang them on the boat transom.

The traditional and simplest way to do so is to mount them directly on the boat transom. An outboard transom will usually have a notch cut out of the top of it, which will allow space for the motor to be mounted. Unfortunately, this reduces the freeboard of the boat transom itself and could present a problem in following seas or when operating astern. Some offshore designs combine the cutout with a self-bailing well to keep the rest of the boat dry.

The molded outboard bracket is a modern method of preserving transom height while allowing outboards to be mounted low. These are mounted onto boat transoms and allow for standard outboard shaft lengths to be used, no matter the boat’s size or the actual boat transom height.

Outboard Transom Mounting

Sizing your outboard correctly is critical to getting your boat’s performance right. The goal is to get the anti-cavitation plate, located just above the propeller, roughly in line with the bottom of the boat. It needs to be the right height, not too far above the keel and not too far below. It also needs to match the hull’s angle so that the thrust from the engine propels the boat forward at the most efficient angle.

While the transom is an important structural integrity component in any boat, a transom that supports an outboard needs to be extremely strong and structurally sound.

As described above, the entire transom height can describe two things; one is the actual freeboard provided, and another is the outboard mounting height. The boat’s design will dictate what length of outboard motor shaft you should use.

The boat transom height is measured from the lowest point on the keel along the center line to the spot where the outboard motor’s mounting holes bracket rests. In the case of a dinghy or johnboat, this point may be the top of the transom. In the case of a larger offshore boat, it may be to the top of a cutout on the transom. If the boat has a bracket, the measurement is made from the bottom of the keel to the top of the bracket.

Depending on the design, this number may or may not represent the freeboard available from the transom. The freeboard is the height of the sides of the boat above the water. Generally, the more freeboard you have, the better. Extra freeboard provides a drier ride and keeps waves and splashes out.

Height isn’t the only consideration when measuring a boat’s transom for an outboard motor. You’ll also want to consider the transom angle. A flat transom will be vertical when the boat is at rest. Many powerboats have transoms that angle aft, meaning that the outboard needs to be trimmed up slightly to sit correctly.

Outboard brackets allow for adjusting their mounting angle to neutralize the effects of an angled transom. But the brackets can only correct for so much, so in some cases, you may have to use an angled backing block when you mount the motor.

Motor manufacturers have standardized a few basic lengths for their outboard motors. Of course, the precise measurements will depend on the engine’s power rating. But outboard or inboard motors are usually available in short, long, and extra-long shaft lengths.

When looking for what size transom for a short shaft motor, you’ll need to consider a few things. Don’t just assume that a “short shaft motor” means the same thing for every engine–one manufacturer may believe short means 15 while another uses 17. Some may have an XS extra-small shaft option available.

Additionally, a short shaft five hp engine may be 15 inches, while a short shaft 300 hp engine may be 25 inches. While 15, 20, and 25 inches are the industry standard, you should double-check the specifics of your engine before making such a big commitment.

Here are some of the standards, but remember to double-check these numbers for your make and outboard model.

Outboard Height on Transom

What to do about a damaged transom.

A damaged transom can compromise the structural integrity and safety of your boat, so it’s important to address the issue promptly. Repairing a damaged transom involves several steps and might require professional help, especially if you’re not experienced in boat repair. Here’s what you can do:

• Extent and Type: Determine the extent and type of damage. Is it superficial, like paint or gelcoat damage, or structural, affecting the wood or fiberglass core?
• Water Intrusion: Check for signs of water intrusion in wooden cores, a common issue that can lead to rot and weaken the structure.
• DIY: If the damage is superficial or you have experience with fiberglass or woodworking, you might opt to repair it yourself.
• Professional Help: For structural damage, especially if fiberglass work or complete transom replacement is needed, seek professional assistance. Boat repair specialists can ensure the repair is done correctly and safely.

If you’re attempting DIY repairs for minor damage:

• Gather Materials: You’ll need materials like marine-grade plywood (for wooden transoms), fiberglass cloth, resin, and possibly gelcoat for finishing.
• Safety Gear: Use appropriate safety gear, including gloves, masks, and eye protection.
• Clean and Dry: Ensure the area is clean, dry, and free of debris.
• Fill and Seal: Fill small cracks or holes with epoxy resin or a fiberglass repair kit. For wooden transoms, ensure the wood is dry and treat with a wood hardener if necessary before filling.
• Sand and Finish: Once the repair material has cured, sand the area smooth and apply paint or gelcoat to match the surrounding area.
• Remove Damaged Material: For major repairs, the damaged portion of the transom, including any rotted wood or delaminated fiberglass, must be completely removed.
• Replace Core Material: Install new marine-grade plywood or an alternative core material, ensuring it’s properly sealed and bonded to the hull.
• Rebuild Fiberglass Layers: Apply new layers of fiberglass cloth and resin over the core, building up to the original thickness.
• Finishing Touches: Sand the repaired area smooth, and apply paint or gelcoat to match the boat’s finish.

Ensure that all repairs are properly sealed and waterproofed to prevent future water intrusion, paying special attention to any areas where hardware is reattached to the transom.

After the repair:

• Inspect: Thoroughly inspect the repair area and surrounding transom for any signs of missed damage or potential weak spots.
• Test: It’s advisable to perform a water test in a controlled environment to ensure the repair holds up under real conditions.
• Prevent future damage by regularly inspecting the transom and entire hull for signs of wear, damage, or water intrusion, especially if the boat is older or frequently used in harsh conditions.

Is Transom the Same as a Stern?

while the transom is part of the stern, they are not the same. The stern refers to the whole back end of the vessel, and the transom is a specific structural element within that area. Understanding the distinction helps in appreciating the design and functionality of boats and ships.

In essence, while the transom is a structural component that helps define the shape and function of the stern, the poop deck is an elevated platform or deck located at the ship’s stern, offering a distinct functional space. These terms are not interchangeable and refer to different aspects of a ship’s anatomy and design.

And there you have it! I tried covering all I could about boat transoms, but let me know if I missed anything and if you have other questions.

What is an engine transom?

The transom is the vertical section of a boat’s hull that is perpendicular to the sides of the hull and located at the back. For example, an engine transom is designed to hold an outboard motor.

Do all boats have a transom?

Yes, although various boat transoms can look different from one another. The transom is an integral part of the boat’s hull and an important part of the overall design. It serves both aesthetic and functional purposes. The only exception to this rule is vessels designed with a canoe stern, sometimes called a double-ender. Instead of terminating in a flat transom, these vessels feature a rounded stern with no vertical surface.

Why is the transom important?

The transom of the boat is an important design feature of its hull. In sailboats, the type of stern a boat has will dictate some of its design and performance characteristics, but the type of transom alone will make little difference. In general, the greatest advantages in performance come from out-of-sight below-the-watertight design qualities. The transom is, more often than not, designed for aesthetic appeal. The transom will belay what sort of boat you are looking at in powerboats. Outboard motor transoms are functional. Planing hulls will tend to have broad, flat transoms. And finally, displacement hulls will have a variety of transoms, much like sailing vessels.

Matt has been boating around Florida for over 25 years in everything from small powerboats to large cruising catamarans. He currently lives aboard a 38-foot Cabo Rico sailboat with his wife Lucy and adventure dog Chelsea. Together, they cruise between winters in The Bahamas and summers in the Chesapeake Bay.

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