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Bow pulpits in standard and custom sizes, standard size bow pulpits.

Our line of heavy duty composite fiberglass bow pulpits are designed for ease of installation. There is no fiberglass work required to install our bow pulpits. We provide mounting instructions along with options such as color matching and anchor rollers. The standard size bow pulpits are for boats ranging in size from 17′ to 55′.

Custom Bow Pulpits

Beachcomber can fabricate bow pulpits in a variety of sizes and configurations. We can take a customer’s drawing and create the bow pulpit. When there is a damaged bow pulpit beyond repair, the customer can ship us the original bow pulpit. We will fabricate the new bow pulpit to the original design. The construction will be a hand laminated fiberglass composite. We can also match the color.  The original hardware can be reinstalled or new hardware can be provided. As with all our marine products, the bow pulpits come with a two year structural warranty.

Standard Small Bow Pulpit

For boats 17′ – 35′

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Shown: 77 1/2″L X 18″W X 6 1/4″H Available at any length 50″ to 77 1/4″

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Custom bow pulpit to replace a damaged one.

Meridian 490 Original Bow Pulpit

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How to Select the Best Bow Roller for Your Anchor and Boat

Storing a large bulky piece of metal like an anchor can sometimes be tricky. In this article, we'll discuss the most popular options for storing your anchor, including using a bow pulpit, anchor roller, or anchor well.

Anchor Well or Other Storage Compartment

Many boats, especially smaller ones, come with an anchor well at the front of the boat to store an anchor and rode. For those that don't have a built in well, under the captain's seat is also a popular location for a quasi anchor well! If your boat has an anchor well, it's the most logical place to store your anchor. The main downside to using an anchor well is that the anchor needs to be retrieved from the well for use and they're normally built to accommodate only folding flat anchors like a Danforth, opposed to other bulkier anchors like a Bruce or Delta. If using a windlass, you'll want the anchor to be permanently fixed to the bow of the boat, making the use of an anchor well impractical.

Anchor Well Pros and Cons

• Keeps the anchor out of the way
• Convenient as often requires no installation of additional hardware
• Difficult to store many non-flat anchors like Bruce, Rocna, Delta, etc.
• Anchor cannot be easily deployed
• Can't use a windlass

If you're so lucky, your boat will come with a bow pulpit, which is a protrusion at the bow of your boat specifically for holding an anchor. Pre-installed bow pulpits are normally constructed from fiberglass but do-it-yourselfers will often construct them from teak or marine lumber.

Because a bow pulpit mounts the anchor further away from the bow of the boat, it allows for a wider range of sizes and styles of anchors to be used (the design of plow and claw style anchors often requires for them to be mounted a fair distance from the bow of the boat). A bow pulpit keeps your boat cleaner as it doesn't involve muddy chain and rope being dragged up the deck of your boat and they offer convenient access to your anchor (especially important for use with windlasses). For better or worse, a bow pulpit adds to the overall length of your boat, which is nice if you're selling your boat but not so nice if you have to pay for an extra 2' of moorage because of the pulpit.

Bow Pulpit Pros and Cons

• Keeps the anchor far away from the bow, allowing for a larger range of of anchor sizes/styles to be mounted
• Provides quick and easy access to your anchor
• Ideal for use with windlasses
• Expensive to install
• Adds to the overall length of your boat (meaning more moorage fees)

Standalone Bow Roller

The happy medium between an expensive after-market bow pulpit or simply storing your anchor in an anchor well, is to use a standalone anchor roller.

Many boats come with an anchor roller pre-installed, however, if your boat did not, they can generally be simply installed on to the bow of your boat. A bow roller functions in much the same way as a bow pulpit, allowing you to keep your anchor permanently mounted on the front of your boat. The bow roller can be used for storing the anchor but it also makes retrieving the anchor by hand much easier.

There's often a limit to how far a standalone bow roller can protrude off the bow of your boat meaning there can be limits of the size and style of anchor you can use.

Standalone Bow Roller Pros and Cons

• Allows for easier retrieval of the anchor
• There are often limits to the size and style of anchor you can use
• Doesn't keep the anchor as far away as a pulpit, meaning mud/dirt may be strewn across your deck upon retrieval and the anchor may potentially bang the hull when stored

Tips on Selecting a Bow Roller

Picking the right bow roller for your boat is predicated largely by what size and style of anchor you are using. Most bow roller manufacturers will give you a selection guide for the most popular styles and sizes of anchors. However, the most important things to keep in mind when selecting a bow roller are:

• Does the bow roller keep the anchor an adequate amount of distance away from the boat?
• Can the shank fit through the loop of the roller?

In our experience, Danforth/Fortress, CQR, and Delta anchors generally fit interchangeably on an anchor roller such as the   Universal Bow Roller. Bruce/Claw anchors can fit on similar bow rollers as CQR and Delta anchors, but fit well on a special type of specific   Bruce Anchor Roller.

When purchasing a bow roller, keep in mind how much mounting room you will need (again, most manufacturers should include a diagram of this). Installing a bow roller is a fairly basic installation undertaken by even the most novice do-it-yourselfer. Installation normally takes just 2-4 bolts mounted, through the fore-deck (gasp- holes!). A mounting plate should be used.

Remember when using a windlass and a bow roller, the windlass should not be holding the weight of your stored anchor for long periods of time as this creates unnecessary stress and the anchor can potentially be released unexpectedly. Instead, either tie the chain/rope to a cleat or use a chain stopper.

Published May 01, 2018

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What is a bow pulpit.

A boat pulpit is a board or set of boards attached to the bow/front, typically installed in a u-shaped configuration. Bow inserts are available for specific models as well. The boat pulpit serves several purposes. It can be used to secure your anchor, anchor rode and windlass/power winch or as a mooring point to tie your boat up to your dock. Because it overlooks the water, it is commonly used by fishermen who want a better view of their quarry and is especially useful for jigging.

While boat pulpits may not be a necessary feature, many boat owners feel they “complete” the look of their boat. Depending on it the size and shape, the boat pulpit it a great place to take in the sun or recreate your favorite scenes from Titanic if you are so inclined.

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Bow Pulpit - CMBOW45 45"L x 12" W x 3"H

C&M Marine Products

Dimensions can be found in the Images Gallery.

Metal Anchor Roller sold separately :  https://marinefiberglassdirect.com/products/anchor-roller-for-bow3-fiberglass-bow-anchor-pulpit?_pos=1&_sid=80746332f&_ss=r

This Bow Pulpit is produced by C&M Marine Products and is  proudly made in the USA.

*All International Orders may require additional shipping charges depending on location.

Customer Reviews

Bow Pulpit - CMBOW33 33"L x 11" D x 2" H

Bow Pulpit - CMBOW49 49"L x 16"W x 2"H

Bow Pulpit - CMBOW60 60"L x 17"W x 3.75"H

Casting Platform 12" x 18" - Brushed Tan/Teak - Spotting and Sighting Fly and Flats Fishing Gheenoe

Casting Platform 14" x 18" - Brushed gray - Spotting and Sighting Fly and Flats Fishing or Gheenoe

Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

On this page:

The hull is the heart of the boat. It's what carries everything: the mast, the sails, the rigging, the passengers. The hull is what provides the sailboat with its buoyancy, allowing it to stay afloat.

Sailboats mostly use displacement hulls, which is a shape that displaces water when moving through it. They are generally very round and use buoyancy to support its own weight. These two characteristics make sure it is a smooth ride.

There are different hull shapes that work and handle differently. If you want to learn more about them, here's the Illustrated Guide to Boat Hull Types (with 11 Examples ). But for now, all we need to know is that the hull is the rounded, floating part of any sailboat.

Instead of simply calling the different sides of a hull front, back, left and right , we use different names in sailing. Let's take a look at them.

The bow is the front part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'front'. It's the pointy bit that cuts through the water. The shape of the bow determines partially how the boat handles.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

• The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
• The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

• Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
• Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

• Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
• Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
• Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

• The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
• The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

• Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
• Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
• Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

• Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
• Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
• Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
• Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
• Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
• Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
• The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
• The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

• Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
• Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

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You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

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How to Install a Used Sailboat Bow Pulpit

Introduction: How to Install a Used Sailboat Bow Pulpit

The restoration of a Venture 17 sailboat  would be incomplete without a used bow pulpit installed.  I didn't want to spend a fortune on a custom made pulpit  (I've done that in the past - pricey $$) and trying to make my own from aluminum rail or stainless steel pipe wasn't working out.  I scoured Craigslist and other local sources for a used one without any great success until stumbling onto a used one for a Cal 25.  Obviously the Cal is much larger than this little 17 but I figured I would give it a try.  As it turned out, it fit very well, gives a nice forward rake, and makes the forward deck feel even larger as the rails swing out a little bit.  It even came with the stainless steel hardware. The installation is simple.  Just line it up until it looks right, mark the holes, and then drill them out.  Use boat caulk/life caulk around all the holes and the mounting plates.  Also use washers top and bottom.  A full backing plate inside would have been an even better idea. Bow pulpits are almost a necessity for safety as far as I'm concerned for any kind of sail work upfront.  Without one there is simply nothing to grab while bouncing around. Thanks for taking a look.

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Boat Anchor Rollers & Bow Plates

A good boat anchor roller keeps your anchor line running smoothly, whether you're dropping anchor or weighing it. Great Lakes Skipper's huge inventory of discount new and replacement boat parts and hardware includes stainless steel boat anchor rollers, anchor pulpit housings, and marine anchor roller housings made by Windline, Dive N Dog, Challenger Industries, Sea Dog, Kingston, and more.

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You know us as the leading U.S. maker of custom stainless boat parts. Now, buy stock White Water Marine lifeline stanchions manufacturer-direct, in hundreds of configurations.

White Water Marine is a preferred vendor for J/Boat replacement bow pulpits, stern rails, lifeline stanchions and much more, servicing all makes and models.

When you need to replace a damaged or failed lifeline stanchion on a vintage boat, call White Water. Your boat builder long gone? No worries. Have us make you an exact replica.

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That's us. We fabricate custom stainless steel plate and tube for the marine environment. One branch of our business is in the manufacture of OEM parts for leading boat builders. We also supply fittings direct to boat owners. And we build stylish all-climate railings and other architectural fixtures for marinas and yacht clubs. Meet the marine stainless fabricators who do it all. Is it art or is it White Water?

You love your vintage boat. But try finding parts. Say you damaged a pulpit or a stanchion. You need a swim ladder or an anchor roller. Maybe you just want to spruce up the old gal with some shiny new custom stainless fittings for the 21st century. We do that.

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Need a repro of an ages-old part? We just might have the drawings in our database.

We can replicate almost any stainless fitting for a classic boat, working from your measurements. Or, in many cases, we will have the original builder OEM specs in our extensive database. We also work directly with amateur builders and enthusiastic customizers. Preserve the existing look or go all in for a modern updating.

We make OEM stanchions, pulpits and other critical fittings for some of the leading boat builders in North America. It's one of our growing segments. We can't drop names because that's proprietary data. But if you think of some brands which are known for premium quality, that stainless was probably engineered by us.

Harborside structures have to be able to absorb a beating from the elements. Rain, humidity, sun and wind eat materials for an appetizer. Now add salt. And so marinas and yacht clubs turn to White Water for architectural railings that resist structural failure and ensure a reliable safety factor. While at the same time looking gorgeous.

There's a small but significant inland segment of our business. White Water also does custom stainless architectural fabrication for high-end commercial and residential construction. We work closely with the builder and often with the owner. Count on White Water for turn-key design/build services, no matter how challenging the specs.

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bow pulpit 2057

Pair of bow pulpits for sailing boats made of mirror-polished AISI 316L Ø22 stainless steel tube, supplied with brass bushes and M8 female threads, 2 different measures available.

bow pulpit Small

... size from 17′ to 55′. Custom Bow Pulpits Beachcomber can fabricate bow pulpits in a variety of sizes and configurations. We can take a customer’s drawing and create ...

bow pulpit Large

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If distance A on your boat is smaller than called out in the table below, the anchor should fit and deploy without difficulty.

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Bow Pulpit Seat

• Thread starter LiveAloha
• Start date Aug 9, 2014
• Hunter Owner Forums

Been wanting a bow pulpit seat for some time now. Finally found one that allows access to the anchor locker also and is sturdy enough to stand on. Just need to install the forward looking latches in the that were included and I am good to go!  

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HernandoBeacher

That seat looks awesome. Where did you find it?  

Very nice.  

Bob 04 H260

Great idea ! I like it a lot, Bob  

You guys inspired a winter project. $140 in Seateak lumber (7/8”), teak oil, and Seachoice spring clamps. Less than $200, and only tools used were a jigsaw and a drill.  

tfox2069 said: You guys inspired a winter project. $140 in Seateak lumber (7/8”), teak oil, and Seachoice spring clamps. Less than $200, and only tools used were a jigsaw and a drill. Click to expand

Hunter 42 Owner Modifications and Upgrades

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