The Woodwork Place

Can You Apply Spar Urethane Over Paint? (Or Should You Leave Painted Wood Unsealed)

Spar Urethane is one of the most water-resistant exterior wood sealers you can easily get your hands on.

This wood sealer is so weatherproof that it’s widely used on outdoor decking and garden furniture.

So, if you want a durable low maintenance way to protect that coat of paint, why wouldn’t you seal it with a few coats of Spar Urethane?

Well, in this post you’ll learn why Spar Urethane is one of the most water-resistant and weatherproof exterior sealants you can use. You’ll also find out if paint even really needs a top coating sealer in the first place.

And keep reading to discover why ‘tacky’ paint is very difficult to seal with Spar Urethane…

spar urethane over paint

This post may contain affiliate links to products that we receive a commission for (at no additional cost to you). Learn more here.

First Off, Does Paint Really Need A Sealer?

Depends on the type of paint.

Most interior paints may need some kind of sealant to protect them from moisture. However, if it is an exterior-graded paint, then it does not need extra safe-guarding.

Exterior paints often have mold-resistant additives and other weatherproofing ingredients. And they make exterior paint a great top coat all on it’s own.

Related Post: Can You Mix Paint And Polyurethane? (Solved!)

But What Do You Put Over Paint To Protect It?

You can use Spar Urethane.

Spar Urethane, (also sometimes known as Spar Varnish or Yacht Varnish), is a very water-resistant urethane-based sealer. Designed primarily for exterior wood, it’s been used to weatherproof outdoor furniture, fences, and even boat decking.

Plus, thanks to added UV-blockers and rot-resistant additives, this low-maintenance finish is one of the most reliable outdoor sealants around.

It has more flexibility to it than polyurethane (which is another urethane-based finish). And this allows Spar Urethane to shrug off scratches and scrapes easily.

All of those reasons are why applying a non-penetrating clear Spar Urethane over paint can be a good idea.

Can Spar Urethane Go Over A Coat Of Latex Paint? A Spray-on water-based urethane will work well over latex paint. But, only if you’ve allowed the latex paint time to dry completely first.

So That Means You Can Use Spar Urethane On Painted Wood, Right?

As long as the coat of paint has both dried and cured, you can coat a non-penetrating Spar Urethane over it.

Now, there are two key caveats here;

1). Use A Spray-On Spar Urethane

When paint dries and cures, it forms a water-repellent seal on the surface of wood.

So a penetrating Spar Urethane isn’t going to work, since it will not be able to sink past paint.

2). The Paint Must Be Cured

Drying and curing are in fact two different processes that paints and finishes go through.

When paint dries, it goes through a process of evaporation turning it from a liquid into a film.

But, a ‘dry’ paint may sometimes still feel tacky to the touch. It may even leach off oils and resins. And it will definitely still be ‘off-gassing’ and releasing fumes into the air.

And this is because the process of curing is still ongoing.

You see, curing is a chemical reaction that takes longer than evaporation. But, it is the curing process that completely changes paint into a durable (yet thin) solid substance.

However, wholly cured paint will not feel soft, won’t feel sticky, and won’t smell of fumes. So that means that the surface of a wholly cured paint is uncontaminated enough for Spar Urethane to adhere to.

What Is Off-Gassing Exactly? Solvent-based paints and sealants often release fumes. These chemical fumes are called VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds). And when they release into the air, this is referred to as ‘off-gassing’.

And Can You Use Spar Urethane Over Oil-Paints Too? Or Will It Peel Off?

There are certain types of oil paints that can make it appear as though Spar Urethane will never stick to them.

However, it is curing that’s the real problem — not incompatibility between paint and sealant.

You see, very slow-drying oil paints — especially ones with added Refined Linseed oil — can take weeks (if not months) to cure.

However, an oil-based Spar Urethane will adhere to these oil-paints, but only if you’ve waited for those paints to cure first.

Related Post: A Quick Guide To Painting Landscape Timbers (+ 3 Easy Time Saving Tips!)

What About Tacky Paint? Can You Get Spar Urethane To Stick To It?

Well, Spar Urethane needs to be applied onto a ‘clean’ surface.

What this means is that the surface shouldn’t have wet solvents, greasy oils, or liquid chemicals on it. All of those things can (and often will) prevent the adhesion of Spar Urethane to that surface.

This is why any base coat finish/paint/sealer needs to have already cured first before you go sealing it.

Now, the main problem with tacky paint is that it simply has not cured.

Tacky paints can still leach resins/oils and release VOC’s. And all of those things prevent a Spar Urethane top coat from sticking and staying in place.

Related Post: What’s With All That Sticky Residue Left Behind After Paint Stripping? [Explained!]

To Wrap Up, Here Are The 3 Key Takeaways From This Post…

  • 1). Spar Urethane adheres best onto ‘clean’ surfaces that are not contaminated with wet solvents, chemicals or greasy oils.
  • 2). If a coat of paint is still tacky, it may still be leaching resins/oils and off-gassing. All of these things prevent Spar Urethane from adhering to tacky paint.
  • 3). But, if paint has finished drying and curing, you can use a Spray-On Spar Urethane finish to seal it.

References:

Goehring, L., Li, J., & Kiatkirakajorn, P. C. (2017). Drying paint: from micro-scale dynamics to mechanical instabilities. Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 375(2093), 20160161.

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How to Use Yacht Varnish? (A Step-by-Step Guide)

yacht varnish on top of paint

Are you looking for a way to give your boat a polished, professional finish? Yacht varnish provides a layer of protection and a beautiful shine that wont fade over time.

In this step-by-step guide, well explain what yacht varnish is, the benefits of using it, and how you can apply it to your boat.

Well also discuss preparation, application, drying, and sanding between coats, so you can be sure your boat is looking its best.

So, if youre ready to learn how to use yacht varnish, lets get started!.

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Yacht varnish is a protective coating used to seal and protect wood surfaces on boats.

To apply yacht varnish, start by sanding the wood surface with a fine-grit sandpaper.

Then, apply a thin coat of the varnish with a brush, working in long, even strokes.

Allow the varnish to dry for 24 hours before applying a second coat.

Finally, sand the surface with very fine sandpaper before buffing it with a soft cloth.

What is Yacht Varnish?

Yacht varnish is a specialized wood finish designed to protect outdoor wood surfaces from moisture and UV damage.

It typically consists of a blend of resins, oils, and solvents that provide a tough, yet flexible coating, which is ideal for protecting boat decks, outdoor furniture, and other wood surfaces that are exposed to the elements.

Yacht varnish also provides a glossy, attractive finish that enhances the beauty of the wood.

Unlike paint, yacht varnish does not completely cover the wood, allowing the natural grain of the wood to show through.

It is also relatively easy to apply and maintain, making it a popular choice for marine and outdoor wood surfaces.

Benefits of Yacht Varnish

yacht varnish on top of paint

When it comes to protecting outdoor wood surfaces, yacht varnish is an excellent choice.

Not only does it protect the wood from moisture and UV damage, but it also adds a beautiful shine and luster to the wood.

Yacht varnish is a long-lasting coating that can provide years of protection under the right conditions.

It is also easy to apply and can be used on a variety of wood surfaces, including boats, decks, and other outdoor wood surfaces.

When applied correctly, yacht varnish offers many benefits.

It forms a protective barrier against moisture and UV damage, preventing fading, cracking, warping, and other damage that can occur with prolonged exposure to the elements.

The coating also helps keep the wood from rotting, which can be an issue if the wood isn’t properly sealed.

Finally, the varnish adds a beautiful shine and luster to the wood, making it look like new.

Yacht varnish is also easy to apply and can be used on a variety of wood surfaces.

It is a great choice for any outdoor wood surface, including boats, decks, furniture, and more.

It is also relatively inexpensive and can be found at most home improvement stores.

With the right application, yacht varnish can provide years of protection and a beautiful finish to any outdoor wood surface.

Preparing the Wood Surface

Before applying yacht varnish, it is important to properly prepare the wood surface.

The surface should be thoroughly cleaned and dried, and any old varnish should be removed.

Sanding the wood will also help to ensure a smooth, even finish.

It is important to use the correct type of sandpaper for the project.

For instance, a medium-grit sandpaper is suitable for most wood surfaces, while a finer grit may be necessary for surfaces that require a more delicate finish.

Once the surface is prepared, it should be wiped down with a damp cloth to remove any dust or debris.

This will help ensure a successful application of yacht varnish.

Applying the Varnish

yacht varnish on top of paint

When it comes to applying yacht varnish, its important to understand the steps involved in the process.

First, the wood surface should be clean, dry, and sanded.

This ensures that the varnish will adhere properly and will provide maximum protection.

Next, apply a thin coat of varnish with a natural-bristle brush.

This helps to ensure even coverage and minimal brush strokes.

Allow the varnish to dry before applying a second coat.

Its important to allow the varnish to dry completely before applying any additional coats.

Sand lightly between coats to help ensure an even surface.

Additional coats should be applied as needed, but always be sure to allow the varnish to dry completely before exposing the surface to the elements.

With proper application, yacht varnish will protect your outdoor wood surfaces for years to come.

Allowing the Varnish to Dry

When it comes to yacht varnish, it is important to allow the varnish to dry completely before exposing the surface to the elements.

This will ensure that the varnish is properly bonded to the wood and will provide optimal protection from moisture and UV damage.

It is best to allow the varnish to dry for at least 24 hours before applying a second coat.

The drying time will also depend on the temperature and humidity of your environment, so it is important to allow for extra time if these conditions are not ideal.

Once the varnish is dry, it is recommended to lightly sand the surface before applying a second coat.

This will help to ensure that the varnish bonds properly and that the finish is even and smooth.

If additional coats are needed, the process should be repeated.

It is important to allow the varnish to dry completely between each coat, as this will ensure that the varnish fully bonds with the wood.

For best results, allow the varnish to dry for at least 48 hours before exposing the surface to the elements.

By allowing the yacht varnish to dry completely, you can be sure that the wood is properly protected and that the finish will last for years to come.

Sanding between Coats

yacht varnish on top of paint

Sanding between coats is an important step when applying yacht varnish.

After each coat of varnish is applied and has dried, the surface should be lightly sanded to remove any imperfections.

Sanding helps create a smooth, even finish and provides more effective protection against moisture and UV damage.

It also helps ensure that the next coat of varnish adheres properly to the surface.

When sanding between coats, use a fine-grit sandpaper (preferably around 320-400 grit) and sand in the direction of the wood grain.

This helps prevent scratches and other damage to the wood.

Be sure to only sand lightly, as sanding too aggressively can damage the wood and reduce the effectiveness of the varnish.

After sanding, use a clean cloth or brush to remove any dust or debris from the surface.

This will help ensure that the varnish adheres properly and provides the best possible protection.

Once the surface is clean, apply the next coat of varnish as normal.

With proper sanding between coats, yacht varnish will provide effective protection and lasting results.

Applying Additional Coats

Once you have applied the first coat of yacht varnish, it is important to apply additional coats for the best protection.

Depending on the specific product you are using, you may need to apply anywhere from two to seven coats.

It is important to allow the first coat to dry completely before applying any additional coats.

When applying additional coats, it is recommended to lightly sand the surface between each application.

This will help ensure a smooth, even finish and allow the varnish to adhere better.

After sanding, be sure to remove any dust or debris before applying the next coat.

When applying multiple coats of yacht varnish, it is important to use the same type of brush and same technique each time.

This will help ensure a consistent finish.

For example, if you used a natural-bristle brush when applying the first coat, it is recommended to use the same type of brush for subsequent coats.

Additionally, use long, even strokes when applying the varnish.

It is important to note that you should avoid applying too many coats of yacht varnish.

Too many coats can cause the varnish to become too thick and may make the surface appear uneven.

Generally, three to four coats should be more than enough.

Once you have finished applying the desired number of coats, allow the varnish to dry completely before exposing the surface to the elements.

With proper application and care, yacht varnish will help protect your outdoor wood surfaces for years to come.

Final Thoughts

Yacht varnish is a great way to protect your outdoor wood surfaces from moisture and UV damage.

Its important to apply yacht varnish correctly in order to get the best results.

Start by preparing the wood surface, then apply a thin coat with a natural-bristle brush.

Allow the varnish to dry before sanding and applying additional coats as needed.

With proper application, you can enjoy your outdoor wood surfaces for years to come.

Now that you know how to use yacht varnish, why not give it a try on your next project?.

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Varnish on top of paint?

Discussion in ' Materials ' started by andysailor , Aug 19, 2019 .

andysailor

andysailor Junior Member

I'm planning to paint the floor inside my boat with a 2 component paint, single stage. The floor will be painted with a white color 2 inches wide and thinner 1/4 inch stripes between. To protect it I also plan to put a couple of varnish coats (2 component) on top of it. I will sand between each coat. Anything in particular I should have in mind? Should I paint the whole floor white and mask it afterwards or should I mask it from the beginning?  

Blueknarr

Blueknarr Senior Member

I have a few concerns about your plan. 1 painted floors are typically slick when wet. Varnish especially so 2 Varnish quickly yellows. The yellowing is less noticeable or desirable over wood. It could be quite noticeable over your white under coat. 3. Two part paint is usually has a very hard surface. Single part varnish would flake off of it. Two component paint alone should last a long time. If you want a clear coat on top, use a two stage paint/clear system. The color and clear are formulated to be applied in quick succession so they chemically bond together. Your plan allows for only mechanical bonding. Masking; Painting solid then adding stripes is quicker and easier, but results in raised stripes. Masking and counter masking the stripes may contribute to a smoother surface. It will take much greater effort and consume significantly more masking materials. There's a likelihood of having masking errors that leave voids along the color separation boundry (over masking of stripes) or zones where the second color is on top of first (under masking). Even perfectly masked, one color could be applied thicker than the other, resulting in an undulating surface. Either way all masking ought to be removed before the paint fully sets. Not an easy task on floors. How do you plan to reach the middle? Good luck  
Blueknarr said: ↑ I have a few concerns about your plan. 1 painted floors are typically slick when wet. Varnish especially so 2 Varnish quickly yellows. The yellowing is less noticeable or desirable over wood. It could be quite noticeable over your white under coat. 3. Two part paint is usually has a very hard surface. Single part varnish would flake off of it. Two component paint alone should last a long time. If you want a clear coat on top, use a two stage paint/clear system. The color and clear are formulated to be applied in quick succession so they chemically bond together. Your plan allows for only mechanical bonding. Masking; Painting solid then adding stripes is quicker and easier, but results in raised stripes. Masking and counter masking the stripes may contribute to a smoother surface. It will take much greater effort and consume significantly more masking materials. There's a likelihood of having masking errors that leave voids along the color separation boundry (over masking of stripes) or zones where the second color is on top of first (under masking). Even perfectly masked, one color could be applied thicker than the other, resulting in an undulating surface. Either way all masking ought to be removed before the paint fully sets. Not an easy task on floors. How do you plan to reach the middle? Good luck Click to expand...

Deering

Deering Senior Member

Will this floor be located inside an enclosed cabin or out in the elements?  
I am very experienced with single vs multiple component and single vs multiple stage coatings. Varnish by definition is always single pack and single stage. There are other clear coats that can be multi component or multi stage. They could be urathane, acrylic or lacquer, but not varnish. The multi clears typically yellow far less than varnish does. One inch of fresh wet clear will appear a similar color as a proper coat a year old. Three inches -- three years. Put a paint chip in the bottom of a pail of clear for a preview. Opaque coatings usually wear better than clears of simular resin systems. Clearcoating over non-skid will reduce its effectiveness. Touching up paint that has been clear coated is much much more difficult than touching up single stage paint.  
Deering said: ↑ Will this floor be located inside an enclosed cabin or out in the elements? Click to expand...
Blueknarr said: ↑ I am very experienced with single vs multiple component and single vs multiple stage coatings. Varnish by definition is always single pack and single stage. There are other clear coats that can be multi component or multi stage. They could be urathane, acrylic or lacquer, but not varnish. The multi clears typically yellow far less than varnish does. One inch of fresh wet clear will appear a similar color as a proper coat a year old. Three inches -- three years. Put a paint chip in the bottom of a pail of clear for a preview. Opaque coatings usually wear better than clears of simular resin systems. Clearcoating over non-skid will reduce its effectiveness. Touching up paint that has been clear coated is much much more difficult than touching up single stage paint. Click to expand...
As an industrial painter, I have jump thru hoops keeping"paint" off of floors. It would be difficult for my to choose to paint one now. My advice to you: Practice masking stripes on sample boards that ate at least two feet square. Cheep paint will suffice for the first attempts. Make a full 4x8 foot sample with the good stuff before starting the actual floor. You will be amazed by what you learn not to repeat from the first four practice panels. Try both masking techniques previously mentioned. Will the raised stripes be acceptable to you? Is the amount of texture in the non-skid acceptable to you? How was sanding between the stripes? Does clear fill in too much non-skid? Does clear sufficiently even out raised stripes? Dirty and test clean mustard, mud, motor oil, ... , off of sample. I have used "no wax floor cleaner and polish" to protect painted floors. It has to be renewed weekly as part of the cleaning schedule. It also add some traction. Never under estimate the value of large test pieces Good luck  

Howlandwoodworks

Howlandwoodworks Member

Some finishes have a maximum thickness, if exceeded they will become brittle and can chip or unzip.  

gonzo

gonzo Senior Member

Blueknarr said: ↑ The multi clears typically yellow far less than varnish does. One inch of fresh wet clear will appear a similar color as a proper coat a year old. Three inches -- three years. Put a paint chip in the bottom of a pail of clear for a preview. Click to expand...
gonzo said: ↑ Do you mean mils? Three inch thick paint seems like a lot. Click to expand...
Do you have a photo of any paint job you have done where the coating is 4 inches thick? I am really curious.  

ondarvr

ondarvr Senior Member

I don’t think people are understanding the 3” method of testing for future color. We always discourage clears from being used over whites, and some other bright, bold and light colors. Open the container of most clears and they don’t look “clear” at all. It’s just that in a very thin film they don’t impart enough color to cause a problem. As they age the color normally yellows, now the yellow tint may be very noticeable. Blues and other tints may be mixed into the clear to hide the yellow/amber tint of most resin bases. The 3” in the can view can give an idea of what the clear may look like in the future. I would avoid mixing and matching brands and types of coatings unless you’ve done extensive testing to ensure they are compatible long term. There’s nothing worse than a clear coat peeling off or radically changing color over an otherwise good paint job.  
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Gonzo, I respect you and usually agree with what you post. BUT Re-read my posts carefully. I never said to apply paint inches thick. I DO claim that looking thru several inches of unapplied clear coat gives an indication of future color shift.  

Phil Westendorf

Varnish Issue

Varnish problem.

JuLia

epoxy yellowing without uv block varnish-alternatives?

Steve_uk

Hardtop design

aaronhl

West System 410 under polyester type top coat

aknudsen

Plywood on top of cf foam core panel, will it warp?

Pink foam - countertops.

trekker

Tinting Barrier Coat, Using as Topcoat ?

Rob McKeown

I stuffed up with the topcoat/gelcoat

Tungsten

Concrete counter tops

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The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

Two-part varnishes leading in durability as long-term test reaches 24-month mark..

yacht varnish on top of paint

Like spotting land after a long passage, were glad to say that the end of our long-term exterior wood finishes test is finally on the horizon. Time, weather, and Southwest Floridas unrelenting sunshine have clearly taken their toll on the test panels over the last 24 months, and as the evaluation moves into its third year, only 19 of the original 54 test products will continue on in our survival-of-the fittest finish matchup. Given that most wood coatings are rarely expected to last longer than two years in the marine environment-particularly in super-sunny locales-its no surprise that we’ve seen more significant changes in the coatings in the last six months than we had in previous checkups.

Our search for the ideal wood finish-relatively easy to apply, easy to maintain, lasts multiple seasons, and is affordable-began in 2007 when we took a look at the different types of exterior wood finishes on the market, their pros and cons, and how easy they were to apply ( one-part varnishes , August 2007; varnish alternatives , October 2007; two-part varnishes , December 2007; teak oils and stains , April 2008). Launched in 2008, the long-term panel test aimed to determine which type of coating offers the best and longest protection and which products stand out among their peers.

We hope the comparison enables readers to decide which finish best matches their own taste, potential labor investment, and wood protection needs.

We’ve rated the test products every six months and reported on the coatings durability in the May 2009 issue ( six-month checkup ), December 2009 issue ( 12 months ), and January 2011 ( 18 months ) issues. Here, we offer the two-year report on the survivors.

How We’re Testing the Marine Varnishes

Testers applied dozens of exterior wood finishes (22 one-part varnishes, six two-part varnishes, 18 synthetics and satins/varnish alternatives, and eight teak oils and sealers) to small panels of bare solid teak. Each was assigned a number for blind judging and was applied per manufacturers instructions. If makers gave a range for the number of coats to apply, testers went with the minimum.

Initial testing rated each products ease of application and original gloss and reflective qualities. In the summer of 2008, the test panels were mounted on a wooden rack (aka: The Rack), which was set up in an unobstructed area on the roof of the PS workshop in Sarasota, Fla., to ensure that all panels received the same amount of weather exposure. The top part of each panel was covered to create a control area that testers used for comparison over time. Every six months, we disassembled The Rack and rated the panels on how well their coating integrity, gloss, and color had fared over time with constant exposure to the elements.

The test was designed as an endurance test, a fight to the finish, so we have not done any maintenance coats or touch-ups to the test panels. These products can be expected to have much longer lifespans if they are regularly maintained.

How We’re Rating the Marine Varnishes

Testers rate each panel on three long-term performance criteria: coating integrity, gloss retention, and color retention. Excellent and Good coating integrity ratings mean that no maintenance is needed; a Fair indicates that its time for a maintenance coat; Poor means the fat lady has sung, and the coating would need to be removed and re-applied. Excellent ratings are given only to those with an uncompromised coating. This time, panels with Poor and Fair- coating integrity were pulled from the test.

Color and gloss retention ratings are relative to the panels original finish. Initial gloss and ease of application are relative to the field within each coating category; these were assigned immediately after the panels were coated.

It was tougher to pick Recommended coatings at the two-year mark, as most wood finishes aren’t intended to go that long without maintenance. One-part varnishes that earned PSs recommendation this go-round were rated Fair for coating integrity (none rated better than Fair ) and had no Poor ratings. Recommended two-part systems rated Good or better for coating integrity with no Poor ratings. No varnish alternatives or teak oils/sealers were recommended at two years.

VALUE GUIDE: Varnish Alternatives

What we found.

What a difference a season makes! With the exception of a few two-part products, the test coatings had lost their sparkle at the two-year mark. Ratings slipped across the board. The UV abuse had obviously taken its toll, sucking the life out of most of the coatings, particularly the clear finishes.

Those clinging to life with Fair coating integrity are still protecting the wood, but they’ve lost their looks. In the real world, all of the one-part varnish and varnish alternative test panels would be due for a maintenance coat, and some-like HMG K Type Varnish, West Marine WoodPro Plus (rebranded Epifanes Rapidclear), and Ace Spar Varnish-would be overdue.

The biggest overall decline was within the one-part varnish test group: Not a single one rated better than Fair for coating integrity or gloss retention, and nearly half of the test field was retired after this rating round. Just six months before, eight of the 19 products rated Good for coating integrity and six rated Good for gloss retention. In 12 months, seven dropped from an Excellent coating integrity to a Fair.

The one-part varnishes offering the most protection after two years are Detco Crystal, Le Tonkinois Vernis, and Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. However, their extended protection comes with tradeoffs: Detco rated only Fair for application, Le Tonks gloss started to slip after one year, and Pettits 2067 started losing its original color after 12 months.

One hardware store varnish has surprisingly held its own over the long haul: Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. At half the cost of the Recommended one-part varnishes, Minwax slacked in the color retention department, but it has proven its multi-season durability.

Four of the nine varnish alternatives have been voted off The Rack after two years, and none performed well enough to earn our recommendation for two-year wood protection.

Interlux Perfection marine varnish

The Cetol products are still at the head of the pack, albeit a somewhat mangy-looking pack. The cloudy, opaque look of the Cetol Marine and Marine Light products may not appeal to everyone, but the fact they’ve maintained their color for more than a year is a good example that higher-solids finishes tend to offer better UV protection.

The Cetol Natural (with gloss) test panel fell from a Good coating integrity six months ago to being dropped from testing. Its performance mirrors what we’ve seen in the field: Give it a little loving once a year with a scrubby pad and a fresh coat, and it’ll last the long haul.

Its taken two years, but the two-part varnishes are finally starting to show their age. Surprisingly, the first products to be dropped from this group are two that performed well in past PS tests: Bristol Finish and Honey Teak. This is likely because the life of a wood finish in Florida is always going to be shorter than in our past test locales in New England.

The other two-parts are still holding up well, with Interlux Perfection and Nautiking Nautithane offering uncompromised protection and better-than-expected gloss after 24 months. Perfection has been reformulated since the test began and is now sold as Perfection Plus.

The temporarily discontinued (since 2009) Smiths Five Year Clear has also proven to be a top-notch finish, but its not available at this time.

While HMG Acrythane XSC didn’t earn our Recommendation this time, it was a top 18-month finish, it still looks good, and it costs less than the Nautithane.

Conclusions About Exterior Varnishes

After two years of testing, we’ve come to accept that perhaps there’s no Holy Grail of exterior wood finishes. It would appear, unfortunately, that we can’t have it all: easy to apply, easy to maintain, long-lasting protection, and a budget-friendly price tag. The reality is that, like much in life, wood protection is all about compromise and balancing your needs with your wants.

There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, and the boat owner who finds gratification in the wet, glossy look of a two-part varnish borne of painstaking preparation and careful application will weigh our test data much differently than the one who regards brightwork maintenance as a masochistic endeavor. For the latter, we recommend seeking out a varnish alternative (easy to apply, easy to maintain) that suits your tastes. With modest maintenance, the Cetol products with gloss overcoats have proven to be the most durable.

For areas where slippery-when-wet coatings wont do, Cetol Natural (without gloss overcoat) or our top-pick teak oil, Star brites Tropical Teak Sealer (classic teak) should be considered. The Star brite will need to be reapplied every three or four months.

If you’re looking for a harder, more abrasion-resistant finish that’ll make it past the year mark, check out the top one-part varnishes like Detco Crystal or Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. Boat owners in sailing areas that see less sunshine than our Florida test site should also consider Pettits Flagship 2015 or Captains 1015. One-part varnishes require a little more work upfront and quick attention when they are scratched or dinged, but they also offer a more traditional, high-gloss look. The one-part varnishes in our test slipped dramatically after a year and half, so we suggest an annual maintenance coat, whether they look like they need it or not.

As this test has shown, when it comes to long-lasting protection and gloss, two-part varnishes just can’t be beat. They may be a pain to apply-and should you let the coating fail, you had better invest in a heat gun-but their durability is unmatched.

The top two-part after two years of testing was Interlux Perfection. Because we’ve not yet tested the reformulated Perfection, the top pick honors go to Nautikings Nautithane. While its price tag ($120 per quart kit) is a bit hard for most of us to swallow, Nautithane earned across-the-board Good ratings after two years.

The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

Practical Sailor often supplements panel testing with product challenges aboard our test boats to see whether top products still earn their keep in the real world and to try out new products. Two such evaluations are our exterior wood finish tests.

In the January 2011 issue, we introduced a head-to-head matchup of varnish alternatives—market-newcomer PolyWhey from Vermont Natural Coatings versus perennial favorite Interlux’s Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak—that had been applied to our Cape Dory 25 test boat. For that test, we’ve just let nature run its course: no band-aid touchups, no maintenance coats, no freshwater rinses, no TLC at all.

Comparatively, we’ve been testing Cetol Natural aboard our Chesapeake Bay-based Union 36 test boat, where it was laid on with the Cetol gloss overcoat in 2008; in this evaluation, testers have applied annual maintenance coats and given the coating regular TLC. Here’s the latest on both of these tests:

PolyWhey vs. Cetol Death Match

The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

In the fall of 2010, testers applied three coats of Caspian Clear PolyWhey to the coamings and companionway trim on the Cape Dory, which is sailed several times a week and lives on a mooring in Sarasota Bay, Fla. We also applied Cetol Natural to the boat’s toerail, and previously had applied it to the tiller and forward hatch trim.

PolyWhey is a unique wood finish that uses whey protein, a by-product of the cheesemaking process, as a binder. It’s touted as a more eco-friendly and more sustainable coating than petroleum-based polyurethanes, which can have up to 75 percent more volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

Consistently among the top varnish alternatives in PS’s tests, Cetol Natural is not as muddy-looking as its predecessors, Cetol Marine Light and Cetol Marine—like the Caspian Clear, it allows the wood’s natural grain to show and has a low gloss.

As far as application, both the Cetol and PolyWhey are quick and easy to apply, with much shorter recoat times than hard varnishes and less (or no) sanding between coats. The main difference that we found in these two finishes was with durability.

The PolyWhey turned out to be a much softer coating than the Cetol. It held up for about two months, but after three months, it was in need of a recoat, and at six months, it needed a total takedown—and Cetol had emerged as the death-match victor.

The PolyWhey on the coaming was the first to go: Where crew backs often lean against the wood, the finish was all but gone after four months. The PolyWhey on the companionway slides held on for about that long, but by six months, they were ready for a do-over as well.

The Cetol on the toerail was in need of a few touchups after six months, mostly in areas where fenders and docklines came in contact with it. But the tiller and hatch trim were still fairly well-protected almost a year after application. Although we’d recommend a maintenance coat at this point, testers plan to see how many more months we can eek out of the coating before we reach the point of no return.

Bottom line : We applaud VNC’s efforts to offer a “green” wood finish—and their creative recycling of dairy industry “trash”—but we can’t recommend it over Cetol for an exterior coating in the marine environment.

The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

Cetol with Overcoat

Testers applied three coats of Cetol Natural with Cetol Marine Gloss overcoat to the Union in March 2008. Once a year, we scuff it up with a 3M pad, give it a freshwater rinse, and brush on a maintenance coat.

Compared to a clear, glossy varnish, it looks decent and the maintenance regimen is more realistic for our tastes and available time. However, one downside to softer, varnish alternative coatings—even those with an overcoat—is that they don’t stand up as well as hard finishes to dings and abrasion. Example: The Union’s toerail has one place in need of touching-up where a fender line wore away the finish. (See photo above.)

Bottom line : The Cetol Natural with overcoat has held up very well. While applying the topcoat may mean added effort, both our panel tests and test-boat evaluations have shown that the coating will last much longer and need fewer bandaids if the soft Cetol is protected with the semi-hard topcoat.

Teak oils and other naturally based finishes like PolyWhey, need maintenance coats every few months. Their chemical cousins, however, like Cetol, have proven they can offer good protection with only annual nurturing and the occasional touchup.

  • C-Tech Marine (Bristol)
  • Deft Finishes
  • Le Tonkinois
  • Premapro (Coelan)
  • Signature Finishes
  • Smith’s Five Year Clear
  • Vermont Natural Coatings
  • West Marine
  • Woodplus Marine

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

17 comments.

I’m surprised you didnt include Alwood from Awlgrip

Search Awlwood on the website. We have a couple reports. October 2014 (chandlery), and June 2015 issues. Download the PDFs, because the tables haven’t been loaded online yet. It is broadly comparable to Sikkens Cetol.

opps, Awlwood not alwood

All very interesting……The “bottom line” is just flush the line in fresh water.

Thank you for the great info. I am going order year of Practical Sailor.

What is your opinion of covering a 2 part varnish with a one part?

It is certainly a comprehensive test. I’ve taken the journey of sticking with one of your “good” one part varnishes, Epiphanes Wood Finish gloss 10 coats with Epiphanes final two matte finishes. I’ve been quite impressed with it over the past 8 years on both my Cape Dory Typhoon and my Alberg 30. My conclusion is, read your directions carefully and be patient through all phases of application. Teak requires a caregiver! Great read especially during this pandemic period.

Great review. Your test is useful for me because I want to buy but dont know which product is the best. I must say that I like all of those mentioned above and price is really cheap. It’s always good to hear other input.

You missed out Pettit’s Gold, a water-based varnish. I have used it, and it’s great. For long life? Too soon to tell. Cetol has mostly been a disaster, especially with the Gloss overcoat. Applying Cetol can be tantamount to vandalism.

That’s really nice post. I appreciate your skills. Thanks for sharing.

Did you continue with testing to date, I am after a product that want yellow or bloom because of constant direct sunlight. I am in the North West of Australia where the temp at it’s coolest is 30+ Celsius for a couple of months and peeks over 50 + Celsius for a lot more than the couple of cooler months.

I use Rust-Oleum 207008 Spar Varnish. So much better than those water-based varnishes. This stuff protects almost forever. We used to use this kind of spar varnish in the Navy to protect the woodwork exposed to salty air.

The Interlux Varnish became my favorite varnish on teak fixtures when I tried it out 2 years ago. This is because of the immense difference it makes in the way it lends my pulpit or anything made of teak with a sophisticated, good-as-new finish.

It’s strange that you call out Pettit Z-Spar Captains 2067 as a top performer in the conclusions, but it’s not shown in the chart. Those Pettit products that are included in the chart don’t appear to be top performers. I’m confused.

After less than a year the Bristol finish I used on my boat looks terrible and will have to be removed. The folks at Bristol are absolutely no help at all. Their disclaimer is that they know nothing about boats. I most strongly advise against using this product for marine application. I have photos taken immediately after application, two months after, and eight months after if anyone is interested. By the way, the problem manifested on well prepped old teak and well prepped new teak. Could have just been a bad batch of finish but as I said, the folks at Bristol were no help. I ADVISE AGAINST USING BRISTOL FOR MARINE APPLICATIONS

I’m certain that the analysis of marine varnish was expensive and time consuming but one area that could benefit many subscribers if it was conducted continuously. Practical Sailor is the only place that I can rely on for accurate, up-to-date information on the products I need and use.

This is an important maintenance topic to me. Maintaining brightwork is a lot of labor. This article was last updated in June 2020. I would appreciate an update. I have been using Epifanes clear high gloss varnish for the last five seasons. It gives a good finish but it needs to be touched up one a year even though my boat is under cover for six months of the year. I sail on Lake Erie.

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Which Yacht Varnish Is Best For My Boat?

Yacht varnish is a specialized type of varnish that is often used on boats. It has several advantages over conventional varnish, which is why it is becoming more and more popular among boat owners. In this guide, we will discuss the benefits of yacht varnish. We will also answer some common questions about yacht varnish. So if you are interested in learning more about this topic, keep reading!

Yacht varnish is a type of varnish specifically designed for boats. It is typically made from a tougher resin that can withstand the harsh conditions that boats are exposed to, such as salt water and sunlight. Yacht varnish also often contains UV inhibitors to help protect the wood from fading and other damage caused by exposure to sunlight. Conventional varnishes are not as durable as yacht varnish and will not stand up to the same conditions. This makes them less suitable for use on boats. However, they can still be used for other applications, such as furniture or around the garden.

Which types of varnish to use on my boat?

Marine varnish can be divided into three different types, each with its own perfect uses. Yacht owners choose to use one or all of these types for better performance.

Tung Oil-based varnish 

Is the most popular type among yacht owners who take boat maintenance seriously. International Schooner or Goldspar Boat Varnish are both oil-based varnishes that coats the wood evenly leaving a smooth finish while requiring minimal preparation work before it can be applied. This only requires a couple of coats. Is advisable to lightly sand the surface between coats to achieve the highest quality glossy finish. The smooth, high gloss finish will protect teak parts from water stains and help to maintain their appearance over time! Its UV protection helps prevent mould growth too which is especially important in wetter climates. Oil-based varnish is easy to apply and can be repaired by sanding and re-oiling the wood, meaning it will last longer than other conventional varnishes. It's also easier to apply compared with water-based yacht varnish which requires no sanding or priming before application.

Water-based boat varnish

Often used on marine boats where there is not much exposure to agitation or rubbing, making oil-based varnish too heavy for use. This yacht varnish type tends to leave a thin, powdery residue that needs sanding down after drying but offers better penetration into the wood than its oil counterpart. Polyurethane boat varnish - is much more hard-wearing than oil or water-based yacht varnishes. Stronger than oil-based or water-based yacht varnish, polyurethane yacht varnish tends to dry quickly and offers an ultra-hard surface that is resistant to impact, scratching and denting. This yacht varnish type has a high gloss tough finish so it's best suited for areas of the boat that are exposed to more wear and tear. This type of varnish can also be divided into two categories as one part polyurethane boat varnish and two-part polyurethane varnish.

One Part Polyurethane Varnish

The yacht varnish that is most commonly used for yacht paint jobs. The yacht varnish offers a quick drying time and can be easily re-coated within hours between each coat. It should be noted that due to its rigidity it is not recommended to be used for painting highly flexible wooden areas as it might crack in time leaving the wood exposed to elements. Two-Part Polyurethane Varnish - is the varnish with longer working times, making it easier to apply on larger boats. It's advisable to use only one part polyurethane yacht varnish for smaller projects as two-part yacht varnishes tend to leave an unprofessional finish when applied by hand. This type of varnish is extremely tough and consists of two products mixed together. It offers very good protection from moisture and UV damage but the same as the above this is not suitable for some areas on your yacht (such as spars) and it will crack as the wood moves and will leave the wood exposed to the elements.

Is yacht varnish waterproof?

Yes, yacht varnish is typically waterproof. This makes it a good choice for protecting boats from the elements. It can also help to keep the wood of the boat looking its best for longer.

Does yacht vanishes need a primer?

No, yacht varnish does not typically need primer. However, it is a good idea to test it on a small area of the surface you are going to varnish to make sure it adheres properly. If you do decide to use primer, make sure it is designed for use with yacht varnish.

Does yacht varnish seal wood?

Yes, yacht varnish seals the wood. It forms a protective barrier that helps to keep the wood from damage and keeps it looking its best for longer.

How long does yacht varnish last?

The lifespan of yacht varnish varies depending on the brand and the conditions it is exposed to. However, it typically lasts for several years, anywhere from two to three years before you need to apply a new coat or two. Some varnishes obviously last longer than others depending on the area where they will be applied.

Which is better? Woodstain or yacht varnish?

There is no simple answer to this question as it depends on the specific application and the needs of the user. However, in general, yacht varnish is a better option for protecting wood from the elements and keeping it looking its best. It is also typically more durable than wood stain, which makes it a better choice for boats.

Why is it important to sand between coats?

It is important to sand between coats of yacht varnish because it helps to create a smooth, even surface. This makes the final coat of varnish look its best and helps to protect the wood from damage.

How many coats should I apply?

The number of coats you should apply depends on the specific product you are using and the area you are varnishing. In general, two to three coats are sufficient. However, it is always a good idea to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.

What type of finish can you get?

There are three types of finish on boat varnish: gloss, semigloss, and satin. Each one has its own benefits and drawbacks, so it is important to choose the one that best suits your needs. Gloss finish is the most durable, but it is also the most reflective. This can make it difficult to see in bright sunlight. The semigloss finish is less reflective than gloss, but it is still quite durable. It is a good choice for areas that receive moderate amounts of sunlight. The satin finish is the least reflective and also the least durable. However, it can provide a more natural look to the wood. It is a good choice for areas that do not receive a lot of sunlight.

Can you paint yacht varnish over wood stain?

Yes, you can put yacht varnish over the wood stain. However, it is important to make sure that the stain is fully dry before applying the varnish. Otherwise, you may end up with a sticky mess.

How long does it take for yacht varnish to dry?

The drying time for yacht varnish varies depending on the brand and the conditions it is used in. In general, you can expect it to take anywhere from six to eight hours to fully dry. However, it is always a good idea to read the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.

Can you thin yacht varnish?

Yes, you can thin yacht varnish if it is too thick. However, you should only use a thinner that is specifically designed for use with yacht varnish. Otherwise, you may end up with a poor-quality finish.

What is the best way to remove yacht varnish?

The best way to remove yacht varnish depends on the type of finish you have. If you have a glossy finish, you can use a polishing compound. For a semigloss or satin finish, you can use sandpaper. In general, it is best to remove yacht varnish with a power sander. However, you can also remove it by hand if you are careful.

Can I apply a new coat over the existing varnish?

Yes, you can apply a new coat of varnish over the existing varnish. However, it is important to make sure that the old coat is in good condition. Otherwise, you may not get the desired results.

Does yacht varnish go yellow?

Yacht varnish is designed to keep your boat looking good as new even throughout the season's hottest and coldest temperatures. The UV inhibitors prevent yellowing, which can otherwise occur due to exposure to external factors like sunlight or rainwater on a dock; they also remain slightly soft so that it will not crack when expanding or contracting with changes throughout each year. Liquids such as engine oils may cause blistering if left unprotected by an anti-blister agent like silicone lubricant (which contains graphite).

Is yacht varnish oil or water-based?

Yacht varnish is typically oil-based. This makes it more durable and resistant to fading. However, water-based varnishes are also available. These are less durable but easier to apply.

So which yacht varnish is right for you?

Choosing the right yacht varnish depends on how much time you want to put into maintaining your boat as well as its location. We stock a wide range of varnish suitable for any type of wood on your vessel.

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How to Paint over Varnish

Last Updated: April 30, 2021 Approved

This article was co-authored by Sam Adams . Sam Adams is the owner of Cherry Design + Build, a residential design and construction firm, which has been operating in the Greater Seattle Area for over 13 years. A former architect, Sam is now a full-service contractor, specializing in residential remodels and additions. There are 13 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. wikiHow marks an article as reader-approved once it receives enough positive feedback. This article received 15 testimonials and 86% of readers who voted found it helpful, earning it our reader-approved status. This article has been viewed 602,203 times.

You can easily get rid of the varnish and give a wooden item or surface an instant upgrade. Wash your item, fill in any uneven spots with wood putty, and sand the surface. Apply 1-2 coats of primer, let it dry, then apply 2-3 coats of water-based paint. With some preparation and paint, you can transform your wooden furniture and surfaces like furniture, staircases, and flooring.

Cleaning and Sanding the Wood

Step 1 Wipe down the area you want to paint with a household cleaner.

  • Cleaning the surface gets rid of anything that may stop the paint from sticking.
  • To ensure it’s safe to use your particular cleaner on your surface, read over the instructions.

Step 2 Fill in any cracks or imperfections with a wood putty and a scraper.

  • Evening out your surface with wood putty ensures the paint applies evenly and smoothly.

Step 3 Wait about 30-90 minutes for the putty to dry completely.

  • If you sand the wooden surface before the putty is completely dry, your surface may be uneven.

Step 4 Sand the area...

  • Cover your mouth and nose with a facemask to avoid breathing in the dust and debris as you do this.
  • For an extra-smooth finish, sand the surface with medium-grit (60- to 80-grit) sandpaper after you finish with the fine-grit sandpaper. This is helpful if your wooden surface is very damaged or uneven.

Step 5 Wipe down the surface completely to remove any dust.

Applying the Primer and Paint

Step 1 Use a paint roller if covering large, flat areas.

  • To use the paint roller, dip the roller into the paint and move your hand back and forth to saturate the roller.

Step 2 Apply the primer and paint with a medium-sized brush to cover small or intricate surfaces.

  • Apply a second coat of primer after the first dries if you are covering very dark stain or varnish. [10] X Research source
  • Oil-based paints are not recommended when painting over varnish. The paint may not absorb into the wood properly. [12] X Research source

Step 6 Let each coat of paint dry for around 30-60 minutes.

  • If you don’t wait for the paint to dry, it may dry unevenly and look odd.
  • If you like the way your wooden surface looks after 1 coat of paint, you don’t have to apply additional layers.
  • The varnish will dry in about 1-2 hours, and you can use the wooden object or surface.

Expert Q&A

Sam Adams

Things You’ll Need

  • Household cleaner
  • Wooden surface
  • Scouring pad
  • Fine-grit sandpaper
  • Electric sander
  • Paint roller or paintbrush
  • Water-based primer
  • Water-based paint
  • Paint mixing stick
  • Water-based varnish (optional)

  • If there’s any spot you don’t want to paint, apply painters tape to keep it covered. After the paint is dry, remove the tape. [16] X Research source Thanks Helpful 21 Not Helpful 22
  • If you are repainting a dresser or chest, you can remove the hardware before you paint it if you’d like to preserve the finish. [17] X Research source Thanks Helpful 21 Not Helpful 23

yacht varnish on top of paint

  • Wear a mask if you are not in a well-ventilated space. The fumes of paints and varnishes can make you dizzy, nauseous, or give you a headache, so it’s best to cover your face and nose. If you are in a well-ventilated area, like a room with a large open window, then you don’t have to worry about the facemask. [18] X Research source Thanks Helpful 19 Not Helpful 28

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Paint Ceramic Plates

  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=34s
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=50s
  • ↑ https://www.bobvila.com/articles/2145-quick-tip-choosing-sandpaper/
  • ↑ https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-paint-a-wooden-dresser-apartment-therapy-tutorials-178977
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=2m28s
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=2m31s
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=1m43s
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=2m8s
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=2m13s
  • ↑ http://www.justpaint.org/why-oil-painting-over-msa-or-archival-varnish-is-not-recommended/
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=2m34s
  • ↑ https://inmyownstyle.com/how-to-paint-an-old-wood-chest-of-drawers.html
  • ↑ https://youtu.be/8YEML20wk0E?t=1m36s

About This Article

Sam Adams

If you want to paint over a surface that has been varnished, clean the object and fill in any cracks or imperfections with putty. Once the putty has dried, sand the area thoroughly with 80-120 grit sandpaper, then wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove any dust. Coat the surface of the object with primer and let it dry for 30-60 minutes, then cover the surface with an even coat of water-based paint. If you need multiple coats of paint, let each coat dry for about an hour before applying the next one. Keep reading to learn the best technique for sanding the wood! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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The Handyman's Daughter

3 Tips for Painting over Polyurethane or Varnish

By: Author Vineta Jackson

Posted on Published: January 31, 2019  - Last updated: July 28, 2023

Home » Home Improvement » Painting

How to Paint Over Clear Top Coat so it Doesn't Peel

Read this before you try painting over polyurethane or varnish! That clear coat makes it difficult for paint to adhere properly unless you follow these three simple tips!

How to Paint Over Clear Top Coat so it Doesn't Peel

There's nothing worse than putting hours of effort into painting a newly acquired piece of furniture, only to have it scratch and peel off at the slightest touch! With some prep work and these simple tips, you can successfully paint over polyurethane treated surfaces and give your furniture or trim a whole new look!

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Can you paint over polyurethane?

While you can paint over polyurethane and other clear coatings, it's essential to prep the surface with a high-quality primer first. Polyurethane produces a smooth, glossy finish that can repel most paints. Using a bonding primer ensures proper adhesion by creating a surface that's receptive to paint.

For example, I bought what I thought were unfinished IKEA Trofast drawer units for my son's IKEA Lego table . Little did I know, but they had a thin coat of clear varnish over the wood! I didn't realize it until I had applied the first coat of paint, which scratched off under my fingernail easily.

red paint scratched off by fingernail

So frustrating! The only way to fix it was to sand off all the paint and try again. This time, I took the time to properly prepare the polyurethane surface, and the paint turned out beautifully!

two IKEA Lego tables made from IKEA Trofast drawer units, made to look like giant Lego bricks

Another problem that can arise with older, worn polyurethane treated surfaces is that the tannins in the wood can bleed through the cracks, leaving you with a blotchy finish. Oak is the biggest culprit, and can make white paint turn orange over time!

When I painted my ugly melamine cabinets with oak trim , I found that the grab bars at the top of the cabinet door weren't as crisp white as the rest of the panel. But with the right primer, I could block the tannins from bleeding through.

before and after photos of painted lower kitchen cabinets

Want to learn my tricks? Here's how to successfully paint over polyurethane or other finished wood!

How to Prepare Polyurethane Treated Surfaces for Paint

Method #1: sanding.

I know, I know, no one likes to sand! It's a very tedious part of any DIY project. But removing the polyurethane before painting is the best way to ensure the good results.

Luckily, you don't need to remove all the finish from the surface. Just roughing up the surface with fine grit sandpaper is enough to get the paint to stick to polyurethane. With a little elbow grease, you'll be ready to paint in no time!

orbital sander removing old stain from tabletop

Sanding is especially important if you plan to stain the wood a different color instead of painting it. The stain can't be absorbed into the wood if there's a layer of protective finish on it!

When I refinished my dining table , I used progressively finer sandpaper grits to restore the wood to a smooth finish. With just a few passes of the sander, all that yellowed varnish was removed (along with scratches, dents and gunk)!

dining table in process of being refinished

But how do you sand curved pieces or intricate details? Try these contour sanding grips for things like spindles or round table legs. For sanding in concave curves or holes, I like to use a drum sander attachment on my drill or Dremel .

contour edge sander

After sanding, make sure to remove all the dust with a damp cloth or tack cloth before painting.

Method #2: Deglosser

So you want to paint over polyurethane without sanding? Then you need this stuff! Deglosser is also known as liquid sandpaper. It's great for all those nooks and crannies or intricate details, or if you have a large piece that would take forever to sand.

The chemical acts like fine grade sandpaper, and will etch the polyurethane coating and allow paint to stick. However, it is a pretty powerful chemical, so make sure you use the proper eye and skin protection , and wear gloves!

Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations deglosser on pine wood background

It's always a good idea to test the deglosser on an inconspicuous area of your project first to make sure it doesn't ruin the wood. To apply, just saturate a clean rag with the solution and wipe it over the entire surface. Let it dry, then you're ready to paint!

Check out the video below for a deglossing technique using acetone on polyurethane treated wood like trim.

When I painted my melamine cabinets , I used the deglosser in the Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations kit to clean and rough up the surface for painting. I was worried that the paint wouldn't adhere to the slick plastic laminate, but it worked like a charm! After two years, it still looks great!

painted melamine cabinets with oak grab bars with new hardware

Method #3: Bonding Primer

If you don't want to sand or use deglosser, you can prime polyurethane with a good quality primer first. Not only will it ensure that your paint will stick, but it will take less coats to get full coverage! I've used two types of bonding primer for different situations.

Zinsser B-I-N primer is a shellac based primer that will stop tannin bleed in its tracks! It requires mineral spirits to clean up, so be sure to keep some on hand for any potential spills or drips. This is what I used on the oak sections of my kitchen cabinets.

The other primer I recommend is INSL-X Stix bonding primer . This stuff will stick to anything, including tile! It's what I used when I painted my tile floor , backsplash tile  and the IKEA Trofast drawer units, and it's held up amazingly well!

INSL-X bonding primer on tile floor

For the best finish, give the primer a quick sanding with 220 grit sandpaper and clean off the dust with a tack cloth before starting to paint. This will remove any brush strokes and give you the flawless look you want!

How to Paint over Polyurethane

Now that you've gone through the proper preparation steps, you're ready to paint!

What type of paint should I use?

Any type of paint will work, now that the surface has been sanded, deglossed or primed. You should choose the best paint for your particular project.

  • Oil based paints are the most durable, but can have strong fumes and dries slowly.
  • Latex paint , which is typically used as wall paint, is less durable and is better suited to low traffic areas. But it's a water based paint that has less odor and dries quickly.
  • Enamel paint , such as Benjamin Moore Advance (my personal favorite), has the best of both worlds. It's incredibly durable like oil paint, but with low VOCs and faster drying time like water based paints.

Clean the entire surface

Wipe down all the areas to be painted with a clean cloth and mineral spirits to remove dirt and dust. For particularly greasy areas, such as kitchen cabinets, use dish soap to break down the oils and get it squeaky clean. Use a dry cloth to soak up any excess moisture before moving on to the next step.

mineral spirits being applied to table top

Apply primer

Primer provides a cost effective base coat that will hold up better than painting directly onto the wooden surface. Make sure you use oil based primer if you're using oil based paint, and water based primer if you're using water based paint.

applying primer to chair legs

Allow the primer to dry, then give it a light sanding to remove rough spots. Water based primer will raise the grain of the wood, and a quick sand with fine grade sandpaper will knock down those raised fibers.

Finally, it's time to paint! Apply the first coat with long, even strokes, and try not to brush over already painted areas. Allow the paint to completely dry before applying a second coat. Check the can for recommended recoat times.

Allow the paint to dry overnight at the very least after the final coat, so it has time to cure and harden.

painting baseboards

If you want an ultra-durable finish, you can apply polyurethane over the paint. Check out this article comparing polycrylic vs polyurethane for a closer look at which one to choose.

Now that you know how to paint over polyurethane and other clear top coat finishes, you can tackle that old furniture that's been sitting in your garage!

Check out these other painting tutorials!

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Can you paint tile backsplash? Yes, here's how!

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How to Paint a Picture Frame [2 Different Ways]

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5 Tips for Using Metallic Furniture Paint Like a Pro

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Can you spray paint glass? Yup! Here's how!

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Spray Paint Tips and Tricks for a Flawless Finish

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How to Strip Paint from Wood

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Painting over varnish and old paint

  • Thread starter stone beach
  • Start date 3 Jan 2023

stone beach

"Remodelling" my heads compartment, existing finish is a combination of varnish on plywood bulkhead panelling (its an old boat) and a hodge podge of paint on interior grp surface. Shape is too complicated to panel out with formica faced ply or similar so I intend to finish all in a gloss (probably white) paint to brighten it up and facilitate future cleaning. I am trying to scrape / sand all but some remnants are likely on the varnish surfaces and the internal grp surface profile makes full removal of existing coatings impossible. Looking for knowledge on which paint might stick to any varnish and old paint remnants. Might be a different primer for each?  

Well-known member

Rub down and degrease with white spirit, paint with a "bathroom" type paint such as Dulux Easycare sheen.  

Stemar

Tranona said: Rub down and degrease with white spirit, paint with a "bathroom" type paint such as Dulux Easycare sheen. Click to expand...

V1701

Have a look at the Zinsser range of paints...  

Farmer Piles

Farmer Piles

Definitely go for Zinsser products, fantastic range of paints that will cover and cope with anything.  

I used a Zinsser primer/sealer/stain cover coat (2 over old varnish) then a bathroom paint (can't remember which brand but not expensive). Worked well.  

Boater Sam

Zinsser stain cover block first then Johnsons sheen top coat. Both excellent paints.  

Thanks to all for comments  

Uricanejack

Read the requirements for the new paint carefully. Most paints can not go on top of all different old paints.  

That is where the Zinsser comes into its own. We had the oil feed pipe to a Rayburn weep into the wall in one of our holiday cottages. We stripped all the plaster off, let the wall dry out and re-rendered. The oil still seeped through from the wall behind. Four thick coats of Zinsser Cover Stain topped with a couple of coats of emulsion, we have had no trouble since. As a base coat, it will cover anything - even oily render.  

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Best boat varnish: 7 top options for gleaming woodwork

  • Drew Maglio
  • October 13, 2022

Different varnishes do different jobs. Understanding their properties will help you decide what's the best boat varnish for your woodwork. Drew Maglio explains all...

best-boat-varnish-81hp8vGUltL._AC_SL1500_

Few things are as quintessential to the archetypal sailboat as gleaming, iridescent woodwork that is indicative of a recent coat with one of the best boat varnish products on the market.

Choosing a product and methodology to apply marine varnish to achieve such results is not as simple as it would seem at first glance however, and this guide aims to make the whole process easier for novice and seasoned boat-owners alike.

First things first, what exactly is boat varnish? Put simply, varnish is a chemical solution of three parts which includes a penetrating oil, resin, and solvent.

Boat varnish for exterior use, aka. “spar varnish” — aptly named because it was designed and envisioned as a flexible protective coating to protect a yacht’s wooden spar in the harsh (outdoor) marine environment — both protects and beautifies a vessel’s wood parts.

It does so by sealing the wood with a somewhat hard, yet flexible, clear protective barrier that can last up to three years of UV and element exposure in temperate climates for the most durable two-part product formulations.

These days, most high-end boat varnishes use tung oil and an alkyld or polyurethane resin. Of the two types of resin, polyurethane — either one or two part — is going to be much more durable and resistant to UV, abrasion, fuel/solvent spills, and impacts.

While a two-part product cannot be applied over a one-part product, a two-part product is going to last much longer and be far more durable. Hence for high traffic areas like cabin soles, a two-part polyurethane product cannot be beat for longevity and durability.

Boaters should be aware that the most onerous task of applying boat varnish is the surface prep, which requires removing all flaking previous coatings by sanding, washing with solvent to degrease the surface, in addition to taping nearby areas to keep the varnish off.

Because of that, I highly recommend using quality products over cheaper, lower cost options which will mean your boat needs revarnishing far more often.

International Perfection Plus two-part varnish

Best polyurethane boat varnish

yacht varnish on top of paint

International Perfection Plus is a well-known two-pot polyurethane

International Perfection Plus (sold in the US under the Interlux brnad) is arguably the best overall marine spar varnish on the market. This two-part polyurethane formulation is not only the most aesthetically spectacular, but also the most durable and longest lasting when exposed to UV.

This two-part product is applied to bare wood after careful sanding and degreasing and can be rolled/brushed or sprayed. It uses a proprietary Interlux thinner and one’s results will be excellent if one follows the recommended procedures to the “t.”

Of all the boat varnish products on this list, this two-part product is probably the least DIY-friendly.

Reasons to buy

• Most durable marine varnish in terms of hardness and flexibility • Best UV resistance • Most beautiful (glossy) varnish if applied properly • Hardness and longevity makes it a prime contender to redo cabin soles and floor boards (after proper surface prep)

Reasons to avoid

• Difficult application for inexperienced laymen • Expensive

Buy International Perfection PLUS two-part varnish on Amazon (UK)

Buy International Perfection PLUS two-part Varnish on Gael Force Marine

Buy Interlux Perfection PLUS two-part varnish on Amazon (US)

Buy Interlux Perfection PLUS two-part varnish on West Marine

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

Epifanes clear varnish.

best-boat-varnish-P004_128_001_002_1500

Epifanes Clear Varnish includes tung oil and alkyd

Epifanes offers quality marine paints and varnishes at reasonable prices and their Clear High Gloss Varnish is no exception. With 64% solids content (tung oil) and an alkyd base, this varnish is sure to be brilliant in terms of gloss with reasonable durability and longevity.

With one-part alkyd products, boat owners can expect up to two years of protection before maintenance is required if left out in the elements year-round. This product can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed.

• Affordable, quality one-part product • High solids content results in very glossy finish • Relatively easy to apply and achieve satisfactory results

• Not as much UV protection as other offerings • Not as impact or abrasion-resistant as other offerings

Buy Epifanes Clear Varnish on Amazon

Buy Epifanes Clear Varnish on West Marine

best-boat-varnish-202242_LRG

International Paints are also sold in the US under the Interlux brand

International Schooner Premish Varnish

A traditional marine spar varnish — albeit a good one — is Interlux’s Schooner Varnish.

With an alkyd base, 47% of tung oil solids, and UV inhibitors to boot, this product is a well-balanced one-part product that is suitable for a variety of uses. This product can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed.

• Affordable, quality one-part product • Well-balanced product in terms of UV protection and solids content • Relatively easy to apply and achieve satisfactory results

• More expensive than Epifanes • Not as impact or abrasion-resistant as some other offerings • Not as much UV protection as some other offerings

Buy International Schooner Varnish on Amazon (UK)

Buy International Schooner Varnish on Gael Force Marine

Buy Interlux Schooner Varnish on West Marine

best-boat-varnish-61z1PTI2iUL._AC_SL1000_

Total Boat Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish

Best value boat varnish

In recent years, Total Boat has become very popular offering products comparable—and sometimes superior—to the “big three” of Interlux, Petit, and Epifanes, at a fraction of the cost and their “Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish” is no exception. This one-part formulation uses linseed oil and a modified polyurethane base.

• Very affordable one-part proper “marine” varnish • Does not require sanding • Comes in matte for those seeking a satin finish • One-hour re-coat time

• Tends to cure quicker than most varnishes and therefore can cure before properly “flowing out” • Requires 6-8 coats

Buy Total Boat Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish on Amazon (US)

Buy Total Boat Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish on Walmart

sikkens cetol marine

Cetol Marine Wood Finish

Best boat varnish for external teak

Cetol has been making alternative wood finishes for a long time. While this product does not have the aesthetic beauty of freshly applied gleaming varnish, it lasts far longer and stands up to UV better than every one-part varnish on this list.

When I had peeling varnish on my 1987 Ericson 38-200 sailboat moored in the tropical Florida Keys, I elected to use Cetol’s “Natural Teak” offering in lieu of varnish and found it incredibly easy to apply and long-lasting, requiring no surface prep to speak up but a quick hand sand and power wash. For outside teak, Cetol cannot be beat.

• Incredibly easy to achieve satisfactory results • Affordable • Long-lasting even when exposed to UV

• Not as beautiful as real varnish • Softer and less durable to impact/abrasion compared to most varnishes, especially polyurethane formulations

Buy Cetol Marine Wood Finish on West Marine

miniwax helmsman spar urethane

Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane

The last product featured on our list is Miniwax’s one-part polyurethane spar varnish. While not the most beautiful finish available, this product is durable (hard and abrasion-resistant), easy to use, and very affordable, making it a good choice for touching up one-part varnishes inside a boat’s cabin.

For repairing, touching up, or even redoing cabin soles, this would also be a decent budget option and therefore is included on this list. Unlike the many UV-resistant offerings on this list, Miniwax Helmsman is not very UV-resistant and therefore is not recommended outdoors.

• Very affordable, even for a gallon • One-part polyurethane enhances durability and longevity over alkyd-based products • Good for sailors on a budget needing to repair and touch up existing interior varnish

• Not as beautiful as alkyd-based marine spar varnished • Not very UV-resistant • Yellows in sunlight

Buy Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane on Amazon (US)

Hempel Dura Gloss

Best solvent-based boat varnish

Hempel Dura Gloss

Hempel Dura Gloss Varnish is a urethane modified alkyd, ideal for interior use

Hempel’s Dura Gloss Varnish is a urethane modified alkyd, ideal for interior use

On the downside, alkyd varnishes lack resistance to abrasion and usually only one coat can be applied per day, which can make varnishing a drawn out process.

The more expensive types are formulated to speed up cure times, improve gloss retention and generally last longer.

Buy Hempel’s Dura-Gloss Varnish on Amazon

best-boat-varnish

Varnish properly applied to brightwork is a joy to behold. Photo: Thornton Cohen/Alamy

Which type of boat varnish to choose?

Varnishing often appears to be a simple task, but there’s a bewildering choice of boat varnishes on the market, writes Rupert Holmes.

An understanding of the qualities of different types of varnish is needed to choose the optimum one for each purpose. This is particularly true for exterior woodwork which has to withstand the ravages of sun, rain and frost.

There are only a few basic types of varnish, although in many cases hybrid products are available, particularly alkyd/ tung oil and alkyd/modified urethanes that can offer a wider range of desirable properties.

Polyurethane boat varnish

Polyurethane varnishes are a harder option with good wear resistance, but they lack the flexibility of alkyds. In addition, they tend to sit more on the surface of the timber, so often do not adhere as well to the substrate, which can make them prone to flaking and chipping.

The lack of flexibility makes a pure polyurethane unsuitable for traditionally planked boats, but it can be ideal for plywood , as well as for cold moulded and strip planked hulls.

Polyurethanes are available as both one-pot and two-pot products, the latter giving a harder coating and faster cure, which allows multiple coats to be applied in one day.

Article continues below…

A man working with boat woods to make repairs to a boat

Boat wood: a complete guide for yacht owners

Boatbuilder and finisher Lyndon March explains which types of wood work best for different repairs and modifications on board

how-to-recaulk-teak-decks-PBO272.teak_decks.img_5627

How to re-caulk teak decks: Vagabond 47 owners explain how they did it

First, they removed the old caulking between the planks using a Bosch Palm Router and pinned a guide into the…

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However, according to a recent report by the Environment Investigation Agency, there are grave questions over the sustainability and sourcing…

If you need to save the varnish overnight, take a look at this top tip on preserving two-part varnish in the fridge. However, they are a much more expensive option.

N.B. One-pot polyurethane can be applied over two-pot varnish but not the other way round.

Ultra-flexible single-pot polyurethanes, such as Coelan have an elasticity of more than 300%. It can also seal cracks, is highly resistant to impact damage and doesn’t need overcoating for several years and can last twice as long as traditional varnishes.

The biggest downside is that it’s four or five times more expensive than typical basic alkyd varnishes, so up-front costs are higher, although its long term performance means the total cost difference will be smaller.

yacht varnish on top of paint

Many boat varnish products can be painted, sprayed or rolled

Tung oil varnish

Tung oil is also frequently used in traditional varnishes: it soaks in well and, although a pure tung oil product will usually cure very slowly, the final finish is very tough.

Solvent-based varnish

Traditional solvent-based one-pot alkyd varnishes are ideal for use with traditionally built wooden boats. The coating is soft but flexible, which makes it resistant to cracking when used on timber that expands when wet and contracts in dry summer weather. Additionally, the initial coats tend to soak into the timber effectively.

Epoxy resin

Epoxy resin can also be used to coat timber, but generally has poor resistance to ultra-violet light, so a varnish needs to be applied over the top. Beware inexpensive ‘yacht’ varnish sold in DIY stores – the low prices are usually easy to explain in terms of extended drying times or poor long-term performance when used outside.

Dealing with surface damage? Don’t delay!

Whatever type of varnish is used, don’t delay on sealing any areas of damage. The key priority is to keep water out, so don’t wait until you have time and suitable weather for a full repair – touch in the damaged area immediately.

This may not have a silky smooth finish initially, but don’t worry. Even if it’s a few weeks before you’re able to do a proper fix you know there won’t be any further degradation.

Top boat varnish tip

A useful tip is to clean out one of the small match pots DIY stores sell to enable customers to test household colour schemes and fill it with varnish. They have a brush built into the lid, which never needs to be cleaned, thus making a quick touch up of damage a task that only takes a couple of minutes.

Find out how to get the best finish with these 8 top tips for varnishing .

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What You Need To Know About Buying Yacht Varnish

yacht varnish

Yacht / Marine Varnish Plays An Important Role

Yacht Varnish is key to keeping your boat exterior in great condition. When it comes to owning a yacht, there are many exciting factors that will factor into your decision. From the layout and amenities to the style and aesthetic, there are numerous things that play into owning a yacht.

However, for many people, one of the most important factors is the look and feel of the boat. When you own a yacht, it’s essential to take care of it so that it remains in great condition for years to come.

A big part of caring for your yacht involves making sure you have all the necessary supplies on board.

A little bit of history on the origin of Yachts:

The word yacht itself was first utilized in Dutch back in the 16th century and said like “jacht” Dutch people were among the innovators of modern recreational sailing. They chased pirates and enemies on fast yachts while dominating the seas.

Nowadays, Yachts are not just for the rich but are used by many for recreational sailing. You can even rent a luxury yacht for a special occasion or date to enjoy with your friends and family. Yachts are available for sale online, a fully crewed yacht can be rented for a few thousand pounds!

Questions & Answers:

Is there an alternative to tin yacht varnish.

Yes, we have specifically formulated an Aerosol version, clear gloss. This is helpful for smaller areas that you need to coat. It can also be used for all types of external wood for protection. Find this product here: https://www.palatinepaints.co.uk/product/yacht-varnish-clear-gloss-for-exterior-wood-aerosol-spray

How long does yacht varnish take to dry?

Varnish depends on the varnish humidity and temperature, as well as on whether you want it to dry before things get cold and humid late in the day. You would like to be dust-free for a couple of hours so that the varnish gets dry enough that it won’t pick up dust.

Our Yacht varnish is surface dry in 2 hours with a hard dry in 8.

Is it possible to Varnish over existing varnish without sanding?

It is possible to varnish over the existing finish, but it is not recommended. You may experience adhesion issues because you don’t know what the base clear coat is or whether it is compatible with varnishes, even if you were able to determine it.

You must clean and wipe down the surface with mineral spirits and lacquer thinner on dampened cotton cloths before varnishing. Finally, you must sand the surface lightly.

What is the Purpose of Yacht Varnish?

Varnish is a protective coating that is applied to the surface of your boat to help protect it from the elements and against staining. While you may not be able to prevent your boat from being scratched or scraped as it is in regular use, using varnish can prevent your boat from getting stained.

This is especially true of the areas that are used the most like the table, the floors, and the walls. In addition to protecting your boat, varnish also helps your boat look even better. With a smooth and shiny surface, your boat will look more attractive and stylish than ever before.

Our Yacht varnish doesn’t just have to be limited to your Yacht though, It has many uses such as being applied on pieces of furniture, entrance doors and musical instruments.

An overview of the benefits of using our Marine Yacht Varnish

  • It provides excellent adhesion to wood and impregnates the material’s surface instantly, adhering to the wood structure for a long time and having a long-lasting effect.
  • UV radiation is absorbed and converted into heat by special components present in yacht varnish, making the sun’s almost negligible effect on the material protective film intact.
  • The varnish protecting boats from UV radiation contains special compounds that absorb and convert ultraviolet light into heat, protecting the protective coating from degradation. This minimizes the sun’s adverse effects.
  • The material is resistant to abrasion and wear thanks to the coating. The film protects the coating from scratches and chips in this case.
  • No chemical reactions occur when wiping the surface using household chemicals, if necessary. Acids, alkalis, and salts do not cause a reaction.

Why does your yacht need varnish?

Just like any other boat, your yacht needs to be protected with varnish. This protective coating is applied to the surfaces of your boat to prevent it from being stained and water damaged, it keeps out moisture and as mentioned in the benefits above, it provides you with a high level of UV protection . In addition to keeping your boat in great condition, varnish also makes your boat look more attractive.

With our high gloss varnish, it creates a quality finish that is smooth and shiny.

If you own a Yacht and want to keep the wood in great condition, you’ll be needing to apply several coats of Yacht varnish but the results would be fantastic, one that you would love to show off. Palatine Paints have spend years testing and applying all of our paints to ensure we reach the highest level of quality possible, our Yacht varnish has glowing reviews which allows our product to speak for itself.

Yacht Varnish

Yacht Varnish Clear High Gloss, Interior & Exterior, 1lt | 2.5lt | 5lt

£ 11.57 – £ 42.75

Palatine Yacht Varnish is a tough, traditional varnish for new, previously painted, stained or varnished surfaces.  Its quality and high gloss finish means it’s perfect for yachts, boats and other exterior wood projects.

Also available in an aerosol .

Wood Yacht Varnish Marine Clear Gloss Aerosol

Yacht Varnish Spray – Clear Gloss Aerosol

£ 7.26 – £ 73.11

A tough varnish in a handy spray can for quick and easy use. Not just for yachts and boats, but all sorts of exterior uses.

  • Protects new, previously painted, stained and varnished surfaces
  • Extremely durable – resists cracking and blistering
  • High gloss finish spray
  • Also available in a tin format

One thought on “ What You Need To Know About Buying Yacht Varnish ”

is this varnish white inside the tin. jd

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What Kind of Varnish Goes Over Painted Wood?

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Varnish can be used to protect, preserve, and enhance paint. With all the modern advances in coatings -- polyurethane, shellac, urethane, or varnish -- some confusion about formula is to be expected. Most professionals agree that water-based varnish is the best product to use over paint.

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Water-Based Formula

Video of the Day

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Varnish is more durable than paint and imparts luster to painted surfaces. When applied over previously painted handrails, furniture, steps, or other woodworking projects, varnish forms a protective layer that allows paint to show through. Most clear-coat products yellow over time, due in part to oil-based formulas that contain volatile organic compounds. Products that contain VOCs are considered health hazards. Water-based varnish doesn't contain VOCs and will not yellow like oil-based clear-coat products. Water-based varnish is also sometimes referred to as water-based urethane, though the products may have slightly different formulas. They both perform the same duties.

Surface Preparation

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To get a smooth coat of varnish, the underlying paint surface must be clean and smooth. If the surface is grimy or dirty, wash it off with a soapy sponge and allow it to dry. Preparation should also include sanding the painted surface lightly with 100-grit sandpaper to rough it up so that varnish will adhere better. If you see flaking paint, use a wire brush to remove the loose particles, and then continue with the sandpaper until the surface feels smooth to the touch. Removal of paint isn't necessary unless it's flaky or loose. If the wire brush won't take it off, don't force it.

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Varnish will not adhere properly to oil-based paint without first adding a primer. If you're dealing with an older painted surface, the paint is often oil-based. To determine whether the paint is oil-based, test it by rubbing a small area with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If the paint rubs off, it's likely oil-based and requires a water-based primer before applying varnish. If you can't determine whether you're dealing with oil-based or water-based paint, simply apply the primer anyway. Adding a primer over water-based paint won't hurt.

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Choose your gloss wisely. High-gloss varnish is exactly what it sounds like. It adds a glossy sheen to the painted woodwork. Use it for a contemporary look. Medium-gloss varnish has some gloss, but not enough to catch the eye. Low-gloss or satin finish is for retaining the older look of the paint, or for more of an antique finish.

Spray or Brush

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A smooth finish is doable with a paint brush if you're experienced, but the best finishes are typically sprayed on. For most smaller jobs, an aerosol can of water-based varnish will do the job. Hold the can about 8 inches from the surface at about a 30-degree angle. Spray overlapping bands of varnish to coat the surface lightly. When it's dry to the touch, sand the surface lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. If the surface is carved, detailed, or has tight corners you can't reach with sandpaper, use fine-grit steel wool. Be careful when sanding corners and edges; it's easy to sand through the paint in these locations. Add up to three more coats for a deeper gloss and better protection.

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The Best Marine Varnishes

Written by J. Harvey / Fact checked by S. Numbers

best marine varnish

Let’s face it, we don’t give as much credit to the almost perfect combination of boats and varnishes. After all, vessels aren’t exactly cheap. They aren’t immune to deterioration as well. If there’s one solid way for you to preserve the life of your investment and even take her beauty up a notch, wouldn’t you seize it?

For my part, I can wholeheartedly say that these varnishes are great investments, especially if we’re talking about the best marine varnish. These concoctions go beyond their practical benefits, lending anything made of wood with a nice finish that only unlocks and magnifies their natural exquisiteness.

I can say as much for the products I’ve featured here. They have given me noteworthy, if not outstanding, results that make the others I’ve tried in my more than ten years of boating and fishing pale in comparison.

marine-grade-varnish

  • Great finish
  • Easy to use
  • Great value for money

yacht varnish on top of paint

  • Superb satin finish
  • High gloss protection
  • Very versatile varnish

yacht varnish on top of paint

  • Easy to apply
  • Excellent UV protection

Table of Contents

1. Rust-Oleum 207008 Marine Spar Varnish

2. totalboat gleam marine spar varnish, 3. epifanes cv.500 clear varnish, 4. mccloskey 7509 man o’war spar marine varnish, 5. totalboat 482869 lust marine varnish, 6. epifanes wfm.500 wood finish matte, 7. minwax 63200444 helmsman spar urethane, 8. interlux iva316/qt cetol natural teak varnish, 9. mccloskey 7505 man o’ war spar varnish, 10. pettit marine paint flagship varnish 2015, 11. system three 1855s16 marine spar varnish, 12. duralux m738-1 spar varnish, 13. old masters 153617 spar marine varnish, factors to consider when choosing marine varnish, what is the best marine varnish, what is the difference between spar varnish and marine barnish, how do you apply marine varnish to wood, how long will marine varnish last, is marine spar varnish waterproof, best marine varnish reviews.

If I’m going for all-around reliability and protection from sun and moisture damage, I’d choose this varnish in a heartbeat.

This is my go-to varnish for anything wood found in my sailboat. Whether it’s furniture or railing or sometimes even the bow, I often get the kind of maintainability I want every time I use this. The finish is no less attractive and only gets glittery over time in a number of my past applications.

Thinned up to around 30%, it dries quickly enough to apply multiple coats in a day. Sometimes I go for as low as 20%, down to even 5%. It’s because thinning too much does tend to backfire and lead to the varnish taking a long time to dry. It’s easy to use with everything considered.

If you want the best results, I’ve found that using a fresh foam brush with every coat would result in optimal smoothness. It may seem like a waste, buying multiple brushes, but the results are unrivaled, to say the least. I’ve had applications that lasted for a good 3 years before I needed to refinish them.

  • Excellent UV and water protection
  • More affordable but with high-end results
  • Low shelf life

This varnish smoothly combines ease of use, beautiful finishes, and above-average durability. The winning formula for successful marine finishes for wood, in short.

This varnish is versatile in that it leaves plenty of routes open for you to take. For one, I like that they give you plenty of freedom when choosing the shine you want. It’s also available in different sizes, so I always get to buy only the proportions I deem fit for a specific project.

I have to be partial to the satin finish, though, since it delivers the exquisite luster I like to see in my indoor boat furniture and fixtures like railings. However, I always make sure to apply a high-gloss varnish if I’m working on anything that has to be exposed to the sun for long hours. That being said, I like that this product gives you both satin and gloss options.

I make sure to apply the high-gloss varnish as a topcoat, and I’ve gotten excellent results, mostly 1 to 2 years of unblemished finishes, with this practice. Sometimes, it’s shorter than that, especially on wooden areas that are more exposed to the elements. Yet, it’s protection you normally expect and can get from high-gloss varnish. In addition, it’s a varnish that’s also noticeably on the thin side, so I kind of get that it wears away faster than thicker varieties.

  • Uncomplicated to apply
  • Has multiple sheen and size options
  • Not as durable as others

Another safe option, Epifanes marine spar varnish is anything but average with its status as a crowd favorite. Expect superior finish and durability if you choose this.

This varnish easily earns a spot here, considering its unchanging and undeniably positive reputation among boaters. Simply put, it’s hard to fault because of the wonderful results it can bring. The shiny, attractive gloss that has the Epifanes trademark is rarely surpassed by other marine-grade varnishes in my opinion.

What’s equally neat is that it’s not difficult to apply. You don’t really need to sand it with every coat, unlike the majority of other brands out there, but I still suggest you do it, especially in the later coatings. I recommend using marine spirits as a thinner with a 2:1 ratio, and take the time to pour it through a strainer to guarantee a smooth finish. At best, you’ll have to set 5 to 7 days of gradual coating to get the kind of attractive finish you want; and I mean capital-A attractive.

As in other great exterior varnishes, this product is an example to follow when imparting UV protection. At least, that’s what I think is primarily responsible for the excellent finish and the overall durability. I use this as much on my sailboat’s wood portions above the waterline and furniture as well as furnishings in my home, and the finish often lasts for 2 years on average.

  • Amazing shine and finish
  • Takes a while to dry
  • Short shelf life

yacht varnish on top of paint

McCloskey’s Man O’War spar varnish is durable, to an almost no-brainer degree. It’s what I buy if I want to get the best out of what spar varnish offers to the average boater.

Despite its relatively hard finish, spar varnish tends to wear out faster than urethane. It’s a natural thing, so I won’t bother to list it as a con. You can’t mimic the deep amber tint, caramelization, and versatility of good old spar varnish, and this brand delivers no less than that trio of perks.

If I’m going to name a worthy brand representative of spar varnishes, I’d promptly pick this one. It adheres excellently to any kind of wood, so I generously slather any wooden fixture in my boat with this once I get a hold of a bottle.

While it’s easy to use, you’d better be prepared to invest time working with this varnish. I use mineral spirits for thinning, and I make sure to apply thin coats, starting from the middle, using a mini roller and a brush, mohair and ox hair respectively. I sand in between coats, and overall it takes time since it dries slowly.

The durability stems a lot from the outstanding UV protection. My sailboat’s wooden bow that has this finish has been battered by rain a good number of times already, and it’s still holding up after a year since the initial application. Since it’s effortless to apply, I just sand and recoat every once in a while.

  • Outstanding UV protection
  • Adheres to most types of wood
  • Classic, eye-catching spar varnish finish
  • Slow-drying
  • Limited availability

yacht varnish on top of paint

TotalBoat is a household name in the marine industry as far as paints and varnishes go. This is the brand’s best offering if we’re going to consider fundamental factors like durability, shine, and value for money.

I need to stress outright that this varnish is extra thick, almost honey-like. If you don’t thin it out to at least 50%, you’ll only end up grappling with it to less than desirable results. It’s not exactly beginner-friendly with that considered, but it does pay off since you get optimal protection and the kind of shine any boat owner would be proud of.

Speaking of the finish, it begins to shine through once you hit the one-year mark. At least, that’s what I get from most of the vessels and furniture I apply it to. I can say that it’s smooth sailing once you take the time to know the right consistency.

I often use a roller and apply 5 coats then do a recoat after 2 hours in a whole day. Ideally, the last two coats should only be thinned by about 10% only. It might get tricky applying it then but, trust me, you’ll get the hang of it.

I get the results I want within a day or two — or more at times during less than optimal humidities and temperatures. Even so, that’s obviously quicker than handling traditional varnish, which takes weeks to settle. I do acknowledge the thinner’s role in helping with the drying time.

  • Excellent shine and finish
  • Proven durability
  • Becomes easy to use with practice
  • Quick-drying

yacht varnish on top of paint

If we’re talking about top-of-the-line, marine-grade durability, this one deserves to be called the best marine wood finish.

This is my favorite to use on teak because of its proven waterproof capabilities and the fact that its satin finish has just the right amount of sheen, for me, at least. It brings out the beauty of the teak and almost any wood I apply it to, for that matter, and this is coming from someone who has tried numerous marine-grade varnish before. I’ve had furniture that managed to maintain its finish for an impressive 5 years with the help of this varnish.

It’s a bit of a challenge to apply. It actually flows well enough as it is, and I rarely have to thin it with every application. However, you have to make sure that you apply it evenly with every coat and oftentimes as quickly as possible. Once I get patchy and bubbly results, that’s the only time I thin it, and I sand after the first coat, totaling up to 3 coats on average. It will dry more slowly if I thin it, though.

  • Excellent durability
  • Nice satin finish
  • Flows smoothly without thinning
  • Brings out the beauty of the wood extremely well
  • Fairly cost-effective
  • Not beginner-friendly

yacht varnish on top of paint

Though not marine-grade, Minwax has proven to be just as durable as many products with that label. It’s very easy to use and delivers just the right amount of shine.

I often use this on my sailboat’s furniture, and if left with no other options, even the wooden exterior of the hull and bow. It goes well with canoes, but I only tend to apply it on the ribs, rudder, and planking. While not marine-grade, it’s great for outdoor furniture, and, to me, that’s always a good sign of heavy-duty UV protection.

If I want to reinforce the protection, I only need to apply more layers, 4 coats at most but not less than 2. I’ve only used it on oak-made fixtures, though, and I get the longevity and finish I want with that kind of simple setup. The varnish lasts up to 1 to 2 years before recoating becomes necessary, with minor peeling only appearing after a year based on my experience.

I like that they give you plenty of options with regards to sheen and container sizes. I prefer satin for my interior furniture. I once made the mistake of not mixing it well and got a result that’s almost similar to high gloss. To avoid this, you need to make sure you mix it for a good 5 minutes and scrape the sides and bottoms of the can as you do so. This guarantees the soft shine you’re aiming for.

  • Plenty of sheen and size options
  • Decent durability
  • Dries quickly
  • Not exactly marine-grade

yacht varnish on top of paint

This varnish earns my thumbs up with the kind of inimitable finish it can deliver and its relatively easy application.

This has since become my favorite varnish on teak fixtures when I tried it out 2 years ago. This is because of the immense difference it makes in the way it lends my pulpit or anything made of teak with a sophisticated, good-as-new finish. It’s not overly glossy, which I attribute to the “natural teak” claim, and only darkens the wood a tad so it will still maintain its natural hues.

I’m glad it didn’t cause any yellowing, and after my second application, I can still say the same. It has a runny consistency that merits forgoing thinning on the first coat. I like to use a brush when applying it to have better control over coverage, which is great enough as it is, and all I can say is that I’ll apply this to my boat’s bow and rails the moment they start showing signs of wear.

Nonetheless, it would be pushing it to say that it’s as durable as the other varnishes here. It only took a year before my bow showed signs of peels and cracks. However, after I applied a single maintenance coat on the entire thing, I found that it limited or delayed the damage since I’ve yet to see signs again after doing a recoating. That being said, I suggest applying a fresh layer at least once a year to make the most out of this marine varnish for boats.

  • Outstanding finish
  • No sanding and thinning required in most cases
  • Good coverage
  • Minimal darkening
  • Well worth the money
  • A bit pricey
  • Not durable

yacht varnish on top of paint

Budget-friendly, reliable, and just as good as other solid brands, this McCluskey varnish is a must for anyone choosing to go for value for money all the way.

The fact that this varnish can give you outstanding satin finishes and superb durability without going overboard in cost should give you a ready hint why a lot of boaters are shifting to this product. When I say superb durability, I mean thick coatings that you’ll be confident will last for years.

In my case, the minimum is 3 years on all my wood projects, boat bows, railings, and furniture included. You may start seeing peels and scratches here and there, as evidenced by the 7-year-old canoe that I refurbished 3 years ago. But, to me, it’s still none the worse for wear and nothing a minor recoating job won’t remedy.

The finish is not unlike the ones I get from the other varnishes mentioned here. It accentuates the natural color and look of the wood, and I’m saying this for redwood, teak, and light oak, which are the types I’ve applied it to. It dries in a day like most spar varnishes and typically doesn’t need to be thinned, though sanding is ideal per coat.

Incidentally, I need to underline the fact that this varnish is one of the few that doesn’t skin over in the can after you’ve stored what’s left of it. At least, that’s what I can say for most of the cans I’ve purchased and stored, with about a third of the can full in a year.

  • Works well for most types of wood
  • Superior durability
  • Doesn’t skin like other varnishes
  • More reasonably priced than other brands

yacht varnish on top of paint

This rarely figures in marine varnish review posts, and that’s unfortunate considering it’s another top-quality marine varnish that doesn’t yellow, imparts a glossy and thick appearance, and superb UV protection.

Usually, I use this as a general-purpose varnish for the teak and cedar parts and fixtures of my one and only yacht. It gives a deep-colored, thick, glossy, grainy, and smooth finish that I can’t get enough of. It doesn’t yellow at all, probably because of the UV additive used, at least, partly. Anyway, this is one positive quality I always like from any alkyd varnish that is done right.

I prefer to spray this one, following the 20% thinning guideline. Spraying shortens the time for full coverage. I sand lightly between coats using 220-grit sandpaper, and by and large, I only need 3 to 4 coats to get the beautiful finish I described above. It takes almost a whole day to dry, but I don’t mind since I get quality results.

As for durability, I can safely say it’s UV stable. I often leave a couple of chairs and tables out on the deck if the weather’s great, oftentimes, for an entire day. Besides a few scratches in some parts, which aren’t UV-related, they haven’t peeled yet and have maintained their shininess after 2 years since application. I can say the same for the yacht’s teak pulpit.

  • Doesn’t yellow
  • Superb UV protection
  • Proven gloss retention

yacht varnish on top of paint

To me, this is the best boat varnish if we’re only considering durability. It also earns a ready checkmark in protection and attractive finish, making it nothing short of tough to beat.

As far as durability is concerned, the longest that I’ve seen this last without undergoing any kind of major peeling or cracking is close to 3 and a half years. It was on my favorite canoe, which I use fairly regularly for freshwater fishing. 3 years is the maximum for any exterior wood varnish for me, and without a doubt, many boaters would say the same.

I attribute most of the longevity to the excellent water and UV protection. My canoe has borne the brunt of rain and water splashes over the years. I can say the same when I expose it to extensive sunlight exposure when I go fishing in Lake Erie. Top-tier durability in my book.

I sometimes use a thinner with this varnish, but I’ve found that you don’t really need to thin it if you use an HVLP spray gun. Sure, it takes a while to dry and you have to be extra careful, but I’ll take that any day if I get to enjoy these perks and results consistently.

  • Outstanding durability
  • Relatively attractive finish
  • Easy to apply with a sprayer
  • Comes in gloss and satin varieties
  • Dries slowly without a thinner

yacht varnish on top of paint

A true gem of a find, Duralux exceeded my expectations with its durability and versatility.

In almost any kind of marine varnish for exterior doors, durability and protection immediately go well together. This spar varnish proves it doesn’t belong on the back burner by delivering both. One of my canoes that I applied this on is still going strong for more than a year, and that’s a quality not a lot of products can boast of.

I’ve had varnish that didn’t take more than a month to start peeling and cracking. That’s after a fresh application, mind you, and, yes, I follow brand recommendations to a tee if I haven’t discovered a better way to apply it. This varnish has kept my other canoes shiny every time so I deemed it deserves the spotlight.

Moreover, it doesn’t yellow over time, unlike some clear varnish I’ve used before. You may argue that there’s a lot of variables when it comes to varnish yellowing, like sanding and possible chemicals it can react to. I’m not sure whether this is spar polyurethane, but I’m betting it is since that’s the only type of varnish I’ve used that doesn’t give me the yellowing effect even with minimal to no sanding.

  • Satisfactory finish
  • Uncomplicated application
  • Doesn’t yellow over time
  • Doesn’t dry quickly

yacht varnish on top of paint

Old Masters’s varnish shouldn’t be overlooked for its conveniences and quality that only a few top-tier varnish brands can bravely claim they can deliver every time.

This is among the lesser-known spar varnishes that don’t yellow even after a long time has passed. The canoe that I refurbished 3 years ago would prove as much, as it’s still holding up well, surprisingly if I might add. To be honest, this was a second option when I bought it as I didn’t have TotalBoat and McCluskey varnishes available back when I did the finishing job.

I was pleasantly surprised by how things turned out. I followed the instructions and stirred it well. It’s just the right kind of thick, to the point that I don’t have to thin it when applying with a brush or roller. I do have to thoroughly sand and clean the surface first, and it evens out nicely with every coating.

It dries quickly enough for me to apply a second coat in a single day, making me think it’s an exception among oil-based spar varnishes. At best, I give an allowance of 8 to 10 hours before brushing the next coat. Obviously, that’s a time-saving perk I’ll take any day.

It doesn’t produce a yellowing effect, even when applied to parts of my canoe that are regularly exposed to heat, sunlight, and the elements. That’s noteworthy considering it’s a clear varnish. I even have to say that the slightly weathered look it has gotten lends it a charm that most boaters would appreciate.

  • Easy application
  • Decent durability and finish
  • Doesn’t yellow with age
  • Limited to small pint-sized cans

best-boat-varnish

Based on my experience, there are many “safe” marine varnish options out there. This only means you’re likely to not run out of beginner-friendly brands and can guarantee high-quality results at the same time. Whether it’s high-gloss or satin, all spar varnishes are easy to apply over new wood or previously coated surfaces. Marine varnish is also not partial to any type of wood and can accommodate those commonly found aboard or form part of a vessel, like teak, redwood, oak, etc.

However, that doesn’t completely discount the need to pay attention to certain factors when making your decision. These are usually the ones I make a note of when planning to start a varnishing job.

  • Durability – I’ve found that marine-grade polyurethane is hard to equal when it comes to finishes that are guaranteed to last. Most spar varnishes pale in comparison to their urethane counterparts in this regard because polyurethane tends to last for a minimum of 3 years before re-coats are needed, based on my experience. This is why they’re great options as a marine varnish for outdoor furniture.

For spar varnishes, I’ve had finishes that only lasted a year or even less. At best, these two offer equally potent UV protection, waterproof benefits, and even resistance to scratching.

  • Drying Time – Are you working with a severely limited timeframe and need to complete coats within a day? You may want to consider varnishes that dry faster like water-based spar urethane since these can dry in only a few hours. Most spar varnishes require a whole day of waiting to apply coats, assuming climate conditions are optimal.
  • Ease of Use – To ensure you won’t end up throwing away your money, don’t ignore how easy or hard a specific varnish is typically applied.
  • Shelf Life – It won’t hurt to pay attention to how long a specific can of varnish will last while in storage.
  • Gloss – This is admittedly a largely subjective factor, but if you’re opting for high-gloss varnish, it’s almost always the one with the best durability. However, do you like your wood to be extra shiny? There are semi-gloss and satin finishes that are just as attractive, if not more, especially when used on anything wood that is below deck.

We also need to discuss the possibility of a varnish yellowing or darkening the wood that it is applied to. Sometimes, the darkening could be due to the UV additive or tint used; thus, making it unavoidable unless you opt for a different varnish brand altogether.

As for yellowing, there are ways to avoid it. I shall discuss it below, but sometimes, it’s due to the actual product as well, especially if they are clear, alkyd, or oil-based. It’s not an absolute thing, though, and there are products that prove to be exceptions to this rule.

marine-spar-varnish

You’ll hear a lot of experienced boaters recommending brands like Epifanes, TotalBoat, McCloskey, and Rust-Oleum. I agree with them because, to me, these brands can easily meet the standards of high-quality marine varnish. Each one has qualities where they serve to shine better, and the reviews I outlined above should give you a good idea about what they are.

Nonetheless, I’m not completely discounting the other brands I included here. I daresay that they’re just as good as those top-dog brands, especially in essential factors like durability and a long-lasting aesthetically appealing finish. Moreover, I find them to be valuable substitutes if any go-to brand happens to be unavailable and won’t even hesitate to pick them as the main option based on certain requirements of a finishing job.

Incidentally, you may have noticed that I didn’t include ease of cleaning when discussing these brands. That’s because most, if not all, of them are very easy to clean for me. At least, for the almost uniform smooth finishes that I get out of them.

There’s not much, really. When boaters use the term “spar varnish”, chances are, they’re also automatically referring to marine varnish. You can also see this in how brands usually label their products in online stores, like Sherwin Williams marine spar varnish or TotalBoat gleam marine spar varnish, to cite a few examples. If you’re using spar varnish, it’s almost always marine-grade.

Both terms give the ready connotation of finishes that provide heavy-duty protection against the harsh elements usually involved when boating, fishing, and cruising. You’ll find plenty of oil-based spar varnishes (i.e. tung oil, alkyd resin, etc.) that are imbued with additives that serve to accentuate the natural beauty of the wood, as well as solvents and other chemicals that promote fast drying and add UV protection.

Since certain varnishes have different components or are more natural or synthetic, it’s best to stick to the manufacturer’s instructions when applying any kind of varnish. However, we can’t deny that most projects share a few essential guidelines, such as the following:

  • Preparation usually entails sanding between coats. The most ideal to use for this purpose is 180 to 220-grit sandpaper or even a Scotchbrite pad will do sometimes. Take note that some varnish products can do without sanding, especially for the initial coat. But, this would still depend on whether you’re applying it to a bare wooden surface or if it’s been previously coated before. If it’s the latter, then you’d most likely need to sand it first.
  • Clean the dust that forms after sanding using a clean rag. I wipe it down further with a tack rag to ensure no dust or debris would still be present the moment I start applying coats.
  • As for temperature and humidity, it’s best to apply any kind of marine varnish if the temperatures during the entire day don’t go above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity should be 50 to 60% or even slightly lower than that. I found that the smartest route to take is to be patient and wait for the right climate before going ahead with a project, especially if you know that it will take a number of days to finish.
  • Thinning depends a lot on the product. If it’s too thick, it’s often necessary to do this, even if the brand doesn’t mention it in the instructions. The safest route for this is to follow a 2:1 varnish to thinner ratio. Mineral spirits are recommended.
  • I also recommend taking the time to strain the varnish using a paint strainer to ensure a smooth finish. Sometimes, this can make all the difference in the world in getting the kind of finish that any boater would be proud of.
  • As for applying coats, there are certain products that require you to start from the middle so that you can ensure an even coating. Others would caution about wiping too much, while many suggest, as is often the case in spar oil-based urethane, to make thin coats for every layer.
  • Bristle brushes and badger-hair brushes are often the standard tool for application. But, again, there are products that are easier to apply with a spray or roller.

Most marine varnishes typically last for at least 2 years. There are brands that have a minimum of 3 years before they begin showing signs of damage. I can attest to marine varnish that keeps its shine and protection for 5 years, and I’ve highlighted the exact products that can achieve that.

Ultimately, if you keep its sun exposure to a minimum, you’re guaranteed to extend any kind of varnish’s lifespan. I’ve noticed that varnished fixtures and furniture in my yacht tend to last significantly longer than the ones that are exposed to sunlight extensively, regardless of the varnish’s UV-protective capabilities.

This is almost always the case considering this type of varnish is marine-grade. Most experts attribute this to spar varnish’s flexibility (i.e. its ability to expand and contract with the wood). However, equally many attribute it to the simple fact that spar varnish is mainly oil-based, allowing to wick away moisture with ease.

Now, do you have a good idea of what the best marine varnish brings to the table? With all things considered, the best parting advice I can give is to not hesitate to try out the options available to you. Sure, there will always be no-brainer choices, but it didn’t take long for me to find out that it pays to try out other brands because they may give your boat the kind of shine or longevity you’ve always wanted.

yacht varnish on top of paint

“I am James Harvey – founder of Boating Basics Online. It is established with the drive to help out first-time boaters, which are those desiring to explore their way through the water. So if you are new to boating, start from here with me. “

IMAGES

  1. Yacht Varnish Exterior: What you need to know

    yacht varnish on top of paint

  2. Excelsior Yacht Varnish Mahogany 1l

    yacht varnish on top of paint

  3. Marine Boat Yacht Varnish Gloss

    yacht varnish on top of paint

  4. SeaMark Gloss Yacht Varnish 180ml

    yacht varnish on top of paint

  5. Ronseal Yacht Varnish Gloss Clear 500ML

    yacht varnish on top of paint

  6. PAINT AND VARNISH

    yacht varnish on top of paint

VIDEO

  1. T-Top Paint Marine

COMMENTS

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    Yacht varnish is a type of protective coating used to protect wood on boats from the harsh effects of weather, sunlight, and salt water. It is a combination of oil and resin that forms a hard, durable finish. Yacht varnish is designed to be applied over existing paint, providing an extra layer of protection for the wood.

  2. Can You Use Yacht Varnish Over Acrylic Paint? Here's What You Need to

    Yes, you can use yacht varnish over acrylic paint. It is important to make sure that both the paint and varnish are fully dry before applying the varnish. Additionally, it is also important to make sure the surface is properly prepared before beginning the varnishing process. Sanding the surface with fine-grit sandpaper and then washing the ...

  3. All About Varnishing Your Boat

    Thin the first coat 50% by volume—1/2 ounce of thinner to every ounce of varnish. Thin the second coat 25 percent, the third 10 percent. Wipe off surface oil with a rag dipped in thinners. Just before varnishing, wipe teak down with an acetone-saturated rag to remove surface oil. Use a foam brush.

  4. Can You Apply Spar Urethane Over Paint? (Or Should You Leave Painted

    2). If a coat of paint is still tacky, it may still be leaching resins/oils and off-gassing. All of these things prevent Spar Urethane from adhering to tacky paint. 3). But, if paint has finished drying and curing, you can use a Spray-On Spar Urethane finish to seal it. References: Goehring, L., Li, J., & Kiatkirakajorn, P. C. (2017).

  5. How to Use Yacht Varnish? (A Step-by-Step Guide)

    Short Answer. Yacht varnish is a protective coating used to seal and protect wood surfaces on boats. To apply yacht varnish, start by sanding the wood surface with a fine-grit sandpaper. Then, apply a thin coat of the varnish with a brush, working in long, even strokes. Allow the varnish to dry for 24 hours before applying a second coat.

  6. Varnish on top of paint?

    Varnish especially so. 2 Varnish quickly yellows. The yellowing is less noticeable or desirable over wood. It could be quite noticeable over your white under coat. 3. Two part paint is usually has a very hard surface. Single part varnish would flake off of it. Two component paint alone should last a long time.

  7. Everything you need to know about Yacht Varnish

    Yacht Varnish is an incredibly durable solvent-based varnish that was originally used to on boats to protect the wood and prevent it from decaying over time. Nowadays, this type of product is more commonly used for exterior household projects, when you are looking to give timber a high-gloss finish that lasts.

  8. The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

    How We're Testing the Marine Varnishes. Testers applied dozens of exterior wood finishes (22 one-part varnishes, six two-part varnishes, 18 synthetics and satins/varnish alternatives, and eight teak oils and sealers) to small panels of bare solid teak. Each was assigned a number for blind judging and was applied per manufacturers instructions.

  9. What's the best varnish for your yacht?

    Ronseal yacht varnish. A durable, long-lasting marine varnish for wood that flexes with the movement of the wood and resists peeling and cracking. This varnish is slightly more pricey than the Screwfix varnish, but gets great reviews. You can buy the Ronseal brand of yacht varnish in B&Q and other retailers.

  10. How to varnish a boat step by step • Epifanes

    Thin the second coat by 25%. After two or three coats apply the varnish without any thinner to a minimum of seven coats. The more coats the better the UV protection and longevity. Light sanding or the use of a Scotch Brite between final coats is highly advised. Epifanes Woodfinish Gloss.

  11. How To: Choose the Best Varnish for Your Boat

    Schultz's advice for varnishing is simple: Use the traditional stuff. If starting with bare wood, thin the varnish to start and lay on the coats. "Ideally, apply seven or eight coats, then add a coat in a few months. That way you always have a new coat. It's better than doing ten coats all at once.".

  12. Which Yacht Varnish Is Best For My Boat?

    The yacht varnish that is most commonly used for yacht paint jobs. The yacht varnish offers a quick drying time and can be easily re-coated within hours between each coat. It should be noted that due to its rigidity it is not recommended to be used for painting highly flexible wooden areas as it might crack in time leaving the wood exposed to ...

  13. How To Apply Varnish Over Paint? (2 Steps)

    2. Apply The Varnish. Apply 2-3 varnish coats over paint with a paint sprayer or roller. Wait until one coat dries before applying the next one. Water-based varnish takes around 6 hours to dry between coats, while oil-based varnish takes around 24 hours. The number of varnish coats depends on the surface type.

  14. How to Paint over Varnish: 13 Steps (with Pictures)

    1. Wipe down the area you want to paint with a household cleaner. Spray any basic household cleaner over top of your surface, and wipe it in circular motions using a clean rag. If there is any stubborn dirt or residue, spray a bit of cleaner over the spot, and use a scouring pad to scrub it away.

  15. 3 Tips for Painting over Polyurethane or Varnish

    Apply the first coat with long, even strokes, and try not to brush over already painted areas. Allow the paint to completely dry before applying a second coat. Check the can for recommended recoat times. Allow the paint to dry overnight at the very least after the final coat, so it has time to cure and harden.

  16. How to Apply Varnish Like a Pro

    Allow to evaporate completely before applying varnish. If teak was already clean and smooth: Use 320-grit sandpaper to sand in the direction of the grain. Remove sanding dust and wipe away residue with a tack cloth. Follow by wiping with a clean, lint-free cotton rag wetted with TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100.

  17. Painting over varnish and old paint

    19. Visit site. "Remodelling" my heads compartment, existing finish is a combination of varnish on plywood bulkhead panelling (its an old boat) and a hodge podge of paint on interior grp surface. Shape is too complicated to panel out with formica faced ply or similar so I intend to finish all in a gloss (probably white) paint to brighten it up ...

  18. Clear Yacht Varnish In Satin & Gloss

    Make sure your wood is dry before you begin. Choose a day that's reasonably warm (above 10°c) and dry. This varnish isn't suitable for decking though. How to prepare wood for varnishing. You will need to remove old stain or varnish by sanding it down. Use 120 grit sandpaper and sand away the old finish. Wipe down the surface with white ...

  19. Best boat varnish: 7 top options for gleaming woodwork

    A traditional marine spar varnish — albeit a good one — is Interlux's Schooner Varnish. With an alkyd base, 47% of tung oil solids, and UV inhibitors to boot, this product is a well-balanced one-part product that is suitable for a variety of uses. This product can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed. Reasons to buy.

  20. Yacht Varnish Exterior: What you need to know

    Palatine Yacht Varnish is a tough, traditional varnish for new, previously painted, stained or varnished surfaces. Its quality and high gloss finish means it's perfect for yachts, boats and other exterior wood projects. Also available in an aerosol. SKU: YV Categories: Decorative Paint, Decorative Top Coat, Marine Gloss, Palatine Paints, Wood ...

  21. What Kind of Varnish Goes Over Painted Wood?

    Choose your gloss wisely. High-gloss varnish is exactly what it sounds like. It adds a glossy sheen to the painted woodwork. Use it for a contemporary look. Medium-gloss varnish has some gloss, but not enough to catch the eye. Low-gloss or satin finish is for retaining the older look of the paint, or for more of an antique finish. Advertisement.

  22. A Guide to the Different Types of Varnish

    Apply the varnish across the grain then lay-off the varnish with long strokes along the grain. Hold the brush at 45 degrees. On large areas, a thin foam roller can be used to apply the varnish across the grain, followed immediately with a wide brush to tip it off. Again, remember to go with the grain.

  23. The 13 Best Marine Varnishes Reviewed in 2024

    McCloskey 7505 Man O' War Spar Varnish; 10. Pettit Marine Paint Flagship Varnish 2015; 11. System Three 1855S16 Marine Spar Varnish; 12. Duralux M738-1 Spar Varnish; 13. Old Masters 153617 Spar Marine Varnish ... This rarely figures in marine varnish review posts, and that's unfortunate considering it's another top-quality marine varnish ...

  24. Can You Use Yacht Varnish on Dining Table?

    After cleaning up the dust with the tack cloth, apply the stain or primer and paint. Finish with a clear coat. Spar varnish, or boat varnish, is designed to protect and beautify wooden parts on boats. While it can be used on a dining table, it is not the best option as it is meant for exterior use and can be quite flexible.