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Toe-tally Worth It – Toe Rail Replacement

Posted by Marissa Neely | Hull & Structure , Projects

Toe-tally Worth It – Toe Rail Replacement

Replacing leaky toerails with beautiful bulwarks was an intensive but rewarding job.

D espite her many attributes, our 1979 Cheoy Lee 41,  Avocet , for a time was living up to the epithet “Cheoy Leaky,” and when my husband, Chris, and I realized that the toerail was a significant source for many of those leaks, we knew we had to come up with a solution. We put a Band-Aid on by applying a bead of Teak Decking Systems caulking on the seam where the toerail met the deck and hull. That mitigated the problem for a couple of years until we had the time, money, and plan to convert our leaky toerails to lovely bulwarks.

Back in the 1970s when  Avocet  was built, the Cheoy Lee Shipyard in Hong Kong was known for its strong fiberglass construction. To make the hull-to-deck joint on which the toerail would reside, Cheoy Lee glassed in a shelf where the deck would sit in and on the hull. As the deck was dropped into place, builders applied a generous amount of sealant in the joint, then fiberglassed the two pieces from the inside.

Externally, the joint was not glassed over—a labor-intensive and expensive additional step. The quicker, tried-and-true approach was to construct a toerail and through-bolt it on top of the joint; on  Avocet , the 41-foot-long, 1¼-inch by 4-inch toerail was bent into place and drilled every 12 inches down through the wood, the deck, and the hull shelf before finally being bolted in place.

And in that final step—bolting—lay the rub. Cheoy Lee was also known for using poor-quality stainless steel, and the galvanically corroded stainless bolts and bronze nuts that connected the toerail to the deck compromised the otherwise solid structural integrity, in addition to being prone to leaking. When we removed what was left of 180-plus bolts, many of them crumbled in our hands, making it clear where the water had found voids to creep below.

Faced with the choice of repairing the damage and installing a new toerail or considering a completely new option, we opted for the latter and began looking into designing and installing a bulwark.

What’s the difference between a toerail and a bulwark? In the most basic way explained to us by various boat designers, a toerail is a piece of wood, aluminum, or fiberglass that usually does not exceed more than 3 inches tall and is bolted every few inches through the deck. Anything bigger, which typically is bolted to the stanchions for support, is called a bulwark.

Because whatever we chose would be integral to the hull-to-deck joint, we considered sailor and author John Kretschmer ’s advice on the matter, noting that the ideal hull-to-deck joint for a bluewater boat “does not rely on bolts, screws, rivets, or adhesive for strength or watertightness. The joint is heavily glassed on the inside, the entire way around the boat, and solid stainless steel rods [are used] for mounting stanchions [that] are recessed into the bulwark thus eliminating potential leaks so common when stanchion bases are through-bolted.”

Choosing the bulwark option would give us that sought-for seamless hull-to-deck joint, which would reinforce the interior glass as well as reconcile the damage and voids left by the old bolt holes. Unlike a toerail, we could drill far fewer holes to fasten the bulwark bases and stanchions, further limiting potential for leaks—and we wouldn’t use the dissimilar metals (stainless steel bolts and bronze nuts) as the builder had, so corrosion would be much less likely.

Inspired by a blog called Far Reach Voyages, in which the boat owners created and installed bulwarks on their Cape Dory 36 using a Lyle Hess Bristol Channel Cutter blueprint, we developed our design to incorporate a 6-inch-tall wooden bulwark that would sit about 1½ inches off the deck.

Chris concluded that the best way to mount the bulwark was by fastening it to a series of stainless steel L-brackets installed along the deck. Using this design, we could keep our existing stanchion bases by incorporating them into the L-brackets, making the brackets’ horizontal surface just slightly larger than the stanchion bases. When the time came to bolt the brackets to the deck, these bolts would first go through the stanchion bases, which would sit directly on top of the brackets’ horizontal surface. This would mechanically join each bracket and stanchion base without requiring us to weld them together, which would have been costly.

After running our bulwark plan by boatwrights, engineers, and local fabricators, we concluded that our design idea was sound, and we got to work. We planned to make the toerail-to-bulwark conversion part of a series of projects that included repainting the topsides and deck.

sailboat toe rail replacement

We did as much prep work in our slip as we could before our haulout. We removed the toerail by drilling out what was left of the corroded through bolts. We used a crowbar to pry the teak up from the hull-to-deck joint, though in some places where it had been sealed with 5200, we Sawzalled the pieces out.

We used an angle grinder with a flap disk to remove any remaining old caulking. Once the joint was clean(ish), Chris measured 3 inches down from the deck and marked a dot every few feet. Using a 15-foot batten we found in the boatyard, he laid the batten along the dots and then then hot-glued it to the hull. This would act as a guiding edge for the router, which he fitted with a 1/2-inch-wide straight bit.

With it, he removed a 3-inch-wide, ¼-inch-deep band of fiberglass along the outer edge of the deck and top edge of the hull. This created a bed for the two layers of 6-inch 1708 fiberglass cloth we would lay in to seal the exterior edges of the hull-to-deck joint beneath.

We did one last round of sanding with 60-grit before rounding the sharp edge where the deck met the hull, using a ½-inch roundover bit in the router. This would allow the glass to adhere better, as fiberglass does not like to conform to hard bends. Since we had anticipated laying up two layers of glass, we rounded this edge deeply enough for the glass to be inlaid with room on top for fairing compound.

sailboat toe rail replacement

With the surface prepped, we were finally ready to glass. Using a nifty worktable we had set up, I cut the glass and wet it out using a fin roller and squeegee before passing it off to Chris. This method preserved our epoxy supply and increased our efficiency. We started with the smaller area of the transom, then expanded our work to the starboard and then port sides.

Chris first applied a thin layer of US Composites medium epoxy hardener to the working surface. Working in 6-foot sections gave him just enough time to lay the fiberglass and work each piece into the edge with a fin roller to remove all the air bubbles, then be ready for the next layer as soon as I was done wetting it out. We continued this method for all 88 feet over the course of two days, taking three hours per side.

Twenty-four hours after the glass had set, we lightly sanded using 80-grit on the orbital sander to remove the amine blush and any high spots before we began applying fairing compound. Using US Composites fairing filler and epoxy, we applied three rounds of fairing compound, sanding with our Flexisander long board with 80-grit between each application to ensure a smooth surface. Then, we rolled on a two-part epoxy barrier coat that we used on not only the bottom but the topsides as well, since as a cruising boat, the entire hull is subjected to being constantly wet and rolling in the swell.

We used the barrier coat as blister protection as well as for its ultra-high-build primer characteristics that filled the small cracks, low spots, pinholes, and things we couldn’t see with the naked eye while fairing. This showed us where we needed to sand, fill, and fair more before continuing on to the Awlgrip primer for the topsides paint job.

Slowly,  Avocet  began to look a bit less derelict, with the grey barrier paint hiding her once-fairing-compound-pink hull-to-deck joint and various splotches revealing hull imperfections. Chris rolled the Awlgrip primer, and two days later,  Avocet  was completely off-white and only had to be sanded one more time before being ready for the final topcoat.

The Supports

sailboat toe rail replacement

First, though, we had to prepare for the installation of the bulwark supports. We had purchased nine 24-by-4-by-¼-inch-thick 316L stainless steel bars, which we then cut in half (it was cheaper to buy them at twice the length than to buy them at the actual length needed). After cutting them into 12-inch sections, Chris used an angle grinder with a 150-grit floppy disk to remove the matte finish left over from being cold-rolled in the manufacturing process.

Next, we had to measure the degree for each L-bracket to be bent. Each was slightly different due to the deck’s curvature. To obtain precise measurements, we used two straight pieces of timber about 16 inches long, placed one on the deck and one along the hull, and then measured the bisecting point. This measurement would ensure that the bulwark would be following the sheer line of the hull itself.

Then, we sent the measurements and the bases to a Southern California fabricator, Garhauer Marine, where a hydraulic press bent all 16 bases quickly and effortlessly. This sounds so much easier than it actually was, since dialing in the degrees on a 1/4-inch piece of stainless steel all comes down to the skill of the operator. Luckily, Doug Garhauer had over one million “hits” with this press, so we knew our metal was in experienced hands.

While Garhauer had the L-brackets, Chris used a brass L-bracket template made from a prototype to recess the bulwark bases down into the deck. This way, they would sit flush when mounted with the stanchion base on top, giving a more “factory” appearance. Chris placed the template at every stanchion base location as a guide and used a router to cut the 1/4-inch-deep pockets into the deck. Once this process of cutting holes in our so carefully faired deck was finished, we could complete the topside painting.

With the custom-shaped bases in hand, the next step was drilling out the holes to attach the stanchion bases. This also sounds easier than it was; for one thing, the stanchion bases had different hole patterns, so we would need to custom drill each one. Doug Garhauer had educated Chris on the proper technique for drilling through hard and thick material such as our stainless steel. It all comes down to using the proper tools—but not everyone can keep a drill press onboard! With Doug’s advice and our wonderful friend letting us borrow his drill press, Chris was able to drill the bases, as well as the four holes in each vertical where the bulwark boards would attach.

Finally, it was time to attach the L-brackets and stanchions to the deck. We placed the stanchion bases on top of the bracket bases with a healthy amount of butyl tape between them, then placed more butyl tape on the bottom of the brackets to seal the area between the deck and the base. We through-bolted the bases using 2½-inch-long 316 stainless steel 5/16 machine screws. Finally, we added a bead of Sikaflex to entirely fill the remaining 1/8-inch gap between the bases and the recessed deck edge.

The Bulwarks

The wood we used to construct our bulwarks was a hot topic aboard for weeks. We wanted to use teak again, but our wallets did not agree, so we researched alternative rot-resistant hardwoods. There were many great options like white oak, purple heart, black acacia, and mahogany, but we finally settled on cumaru, also known as Brazilian teak.

sailboat toe rail replacement

We ordered 100 feet of 20-foot-long, 6 x 1-inch boards from Advantage Lumber. On this part of the project, COVID became a factor when the supplier ran out of 6-inch boards, and we had to opt for 51/2-inch. At this point, we had already completed the L-bracket fabrication and drilling; this would mean that the verticals of the L-brackets would stand slightly proud of the tops of the bulwark boards. Not ideal, but it had taken months already just to get the 51/2-inch boards, so we decided to live with it.

While waiting for the wood to arrive, Chris studied scarf joints to choose the best method to join three sections of wood into a single 42-foot board. He settled on a mechanically fastened, plated scarf joint that would be 32 inches long. Hours went into mathematical equations sketched out on his signature yellow legal pad to ensure the cuts would be precise, since we only had one shot at getting this right, or else we would have to order new wood—and who knew how long that would take to be delivered? Once he transferred the sketches to the wood, Chris used an accurate combo square, circular saw, Japanese hand saw, sharp chisels, assorted drill bits, 316 stainless hardware, and marine glue to construct the bulwark plank.

sailboat toe rail replacement

With the help of our friends, we carefully maneuvered the heavy, long, and bendy plank to the L-brackets, where I was quick to secure them with C-clamps. With the bulwark now dry-fitted into place, we stood back and admired how nicely this project had come together. We were thrilled to learn that we would not have to steam the wood to conform to the boat’s shape, which was ultimately a relief despite our elaborate plan to create a steam bag using a thick plastic bag and a turkey fryer for steam.

Sixty-four 316 stainless steel fasteners later, we had bulwarks! The wood completed  Avocet ’s newly improved look, adding a hint of timeless design to her somewhat more modern construct, as well as an admiring nod to one of Chris’ favorite designers, Lyle Hess.

sailboat toe rail replacement

The final pieces were the hawse holes that would replace our prior fairleads, which we felt did not do the overall hull design justice. After Chris sanded, polished, and inset them into the bulwarks, the cast-bronze additions sparkled, beautifully complementing the wood and the boat’s overall look.

When the last hawse hole was in place, we broke free of the docklines that had seemingly weighed us down like shackles and made a mad dash to the Channel Islands so we could enjoy our boat the way she was intended. The water splashed on deck, washing overboard immediately under the bulwark through the slim gap. It was perfect. The bulwark’s height made it easy to safely store jerry cans, fenders, lines, and even the dinghy without the deck looking cluttered.

sailboat toe rail replacement

About The Author

Marissa Neely

Marissa Neely

Chris and Marissa Neely have been living aboard and upgrading their 1979 Cheoy Lee 41, Avocet, since 2018. Primarily they sail in and around Southern California’s Channel Islands. Follow them at svavocet.com, on other social platforms at @svavocet, and on their YouTube channel called Sailing Avocet.

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PlasTEAK

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Product Information

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Toe Rail Replacement: Teak or Mahogany

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St Anna

My toe rails were rebuilt with solid glass. You can get as smooth a finish as needed, just needs painting and doesnt look like wood, but it can not rot! You look like you are after a rubbing strip as well. If so I would look at the first one as it is easier to built and repair as need be. regards DC  

Bedding the inside edge of your one piece concept against a deck that seems like it will hold water against the seam, or underneath it, looks like a potential problem to me. Particularly, if you intend to varnish.  

I agree with the glass suggestion...true teak or true mahogany , if you can get them, are out of this world in price...while fake teak may look nice, it isn't as tight grained and does not have the natural oils to preserve itself...faux mahog is the same, looser grain and very prone to holding moisture...if you are insistent on the wood toe rail, you might want to laminate the pieces so they have a rabbit that will fit over the top and laminate them at the top glue joint. To handle the curve, you can't go more than about a half an inch thickness or you will spend your fortune on clamps to hold the darned things together while they dry. (speaking from experience here) If you want another idea, look at clear cedar...it has a nice patina when finished with several coats of poly, won't rot easily, and, though softer, holds up well if you don't beat it too much. You can also screw a piece of matching cedar to the outside and create a rub rail to protect the toe rail when docking or in a slip. Ed Simpson Skipper (when my wife lets me) S/V Das Dawg Haus  

Spar varnish, methinks, not polyurethane.  

CalebD

I have a Tartan 27 from 1967 that also has a teak toe (and rub) rail (different hull/deck joint though). While it looks nice once finished I believe that using wood, especially expensive wood like teak for your rub rail is a poor choice and use of materials. It cracks easily enough if/when it hits a solid object. Ask me how I know this; which is the reason I've had to replace several sections. For the rub rail portion (outboard) I'd recommend anything but expensive wood like teak or mahogany. In fact some kind of rubberized rub rail would be a more practical solution, IMHO. For the cap rail portion (top side and inboard) you could use a nice wood as this is more visible. It is also not as functional as some of the perforated aluminum cap rails that I have seen on other boats that require little or no maintenance. If you are going to go with wood (of some kind) your idea of fabricating a 1 piece molding in the shape to accommodate the hull deck joint is a non-starter (again my humble opinion). As the wood needs to be bent along the shape of the boat your molding will distort and deform. You would be better off going with 2 or even 3 rectangular shaped pieces to make up your desired shape. That is still going to require a lot of screws, bungs and delicate bending to get it to conform to the shape you want. As mentioned: wood stock of < 1/2" is much easier to bend then thicker stuff unless you want to use a steam box and jig to pre-shape your pieces. I have kept the teak toe/cap rail on our boat as it was originally and it is pretty once attached and finished but you would be surprised at how easily teak can split along the grain. Teak weathers the elements quite well but it is not really suited for this application. Not as good looking but waaay more practical for this application is stuff like this: Crest Aluminum Marine Toerail  

deniseO30

white oak, pretty common, not expensive will turn silver like teak or mahogany, bends well, and can be obtained at sawmills in long lengths. Heavy, but then teak is to.  

mitiempo

There are many woods called mahogany but what is "fake teak"? I wouldn't use cedar as it is really too soft. Iroko would be a good choice if it is available in your area. I would not want wood in that location though as it is hard to keep up and a source of leaks. Fiberglassing it over would eliminate future leaks and require no maintenance.  

Caleb The aluminum toerail you linked to is a good idea but I don't know if one is available that would work with that kind of hull/deck join. I have one but the deck sits on an inward flange of the hull, as all I have seen are designed for. Maybe there is an extrusion available that will work. It would be expensive but a wood toerail will be expensive as well as the labor involved. Denise - white oak only has one problem - if it gets wet it turns black.  

mitiempo said: Caleb The aluminum toerail you linked to is a good idea but I don't know if one is available that would work with that kind of hull/deck join. I have one but the deck sits on an inward flange of the hull, as all I have seen are designed for. Maybe there is an extrusion available that will work. It would be expensive but a wood toerail will be expensive as well as the labor involved. Click to expand...

neverknow

Look for a sheet metal fab shop in your area. They might be able to make something out of either aluminum or stainless. If done from a sheet and they have a break press long enough you can get 12 foot sections made.  

After due market research in the South Florida region, I'm leaning heavily on Jatoba. It looks like teak (tight grained, absolutely gorgeous), is cheap and locally available (Shell Lumber, Miami is excellent), and most importantly it is highly rot resistant and strong as hell. My only concern is that it will be difficult to bend into shape without cracking given its great density. Anybody have any experience with this wood?  

CorvetteGuy

I've seen boats that replaced rotten teak toerails with recycled material that has the same look as wood but with no maintnance, it bends and hold curves easily. There is a company by me and they sell outdoor furniture made of this material in many different colours from pind to black, could this be and option?  

Aesthetically, my boat needs help where it can get it, also I can't install an aluminum rail as functional as that would be, so I'm planning on wooden toerails.  

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Door Replacement Installers in Elektrostal'

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Toe Rail Replacement

  • Thread starter Mike
  • Start date Aug 7, 1999
  • Brand-Specific Forums
  • Other Sailboats

I have a 28.5 that had it's toe rail damaged a couple of years back in a storm. I've recently tried to find a replacement but to no avail. The guys at hunter sent me to Taco Metals. Taco Metals wouldn't even talk to me since I don't have an account with them. They sent me to Land and Sea who still couldn't give me a price but said they could custom order it. Oh, but you must have an account with us first, they said. One day later a sales rep was at my office with an application and a catalog but no toerail prices until I set up an account. I don't want an account. I want toe rail only. My Question. What do you have to do to get toe rail? Why is it so dificult to get a price on this stuff? Does Hunter have any old toe rail that would work on a 28.5? Any input would be much appreciated.  

why not call them??? Hunter... pick up the phone and do it they have an account with Taco and can get it for you. JB  

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COMMENTS

  1. Toe-tally Worth It

    The quicker, tried-and-true approach was to construct a toerail and through-bolt it on top of the joint; on Avocet, the 41-foot-long, 1¼-inch by 4-inch toerail was bent into place and drilled every 12 inches down through the wood, the deck, and the hull shelf before finally being bolted in place. And in that final step—bolting—lay the rub.

  2. Removing the Toe Rail

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  3. Repairing Wooden Rubrails and Toerails

    Still, wooden rails give a sailboat an admirably classic look, even when left unfinished to weather naturally, and can be a lot less work to maintain than people realize. Repairing wooden rubrails and toerails is also very simple, requiring nothing more than a couple of hand tools—as I learned when I repaired some sections of rail on my long ...

  4. Toe Rail & T-Track

    This is another exact replacement for toe rail used on the George Olson designed Olson 25, 29, 30, 911's and the Santa Cruz 27. In keeping with the boat's ultra-light design, this is an extremely light weight rail with 3/8" x 1¼" slots spaced on 2" centers.

  5. Custom Teak Boat Toe Rail Replacements

    Purchase Direct. This item is only available by contacting PlasDECK. Call us at 330-668-2587 or email us. Contact Us. The warm look of teak adds charm and a classic look to any boat. Yours can be beautiful ALL of the time without the work.

  6. Replacing the teak toe Rails. Making the new ones.

    Making continuous new teak toe rails from rough cut teak. After this video I changed my mind and decided to do it the hard way. See my channel Howell2sail a...

  7. Marine Toe Rail & T-Track

    Crest is the worldwide leader for C&C, Hunter, O'Day, Bavaria, Cape North, Olson, Wauquiez Pretorien & More Sailboat Toe Rails Our toe rail and t-track inventory is steadily growing with every new inquiry we receive. ... Exact replacement toe rails for Tartan, C&C, Hunter Marine, and other sailboat manufacturers are in stock and ready to ship.

  8. Sail Life

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  9. Toe Rail Replacement

    Maxion. 14 posts · Joined 2013. #5 · Aug 7, 2013. I've added a teak toe rail to a modern 33 ft yacht. The toerail was done in pieces to fit between the stanchions, holes for screwes were pre-drilled and sunk in the toe rail as well as the deck. Goop was added under the rail which was then placed onto the first screw hole.

  10. Toe rail replacement strategy

    I would like to replace the toe rail on a Passage 42. I found new rail but they can only ship a 24 foot section. So I'm not sure what is the best method. Should I just cut out the 8 foot damaged section and replace that much, or get 2 24 foot pieces and replace the whole thing? Opinions appreciated. Especially if you've done the process. Dave

  11. Toerail damage B323 finding a replacement

    325. Beneteau 393 Chesapeake Bay. Oct 29, 2020. #10. I have a Beneteau 393 and sustained damage to the toerail a couple of years ago. It's aluminum, and quite malleable. Mine was bent up more than inboard like yours, but the outboard lip/flange lifted off of the hull/deck joint, exposing a bit of the joint. Before you spend a lot of money, try ...

  12. Plastic Teak Toe Rails

    Here are the steps I took: * Remove the old toe rails, after prying out the bungs and removing the screws on the first 5' piece (1/2 hour), I decided to just split the toe rails with a chisel at each screw, pull off the wood and then remove the screws (1/2 hour for the other 47'). * Clean up the gelcoat from years of varnishing.

  13. Toe Rail Replacement with White Oak or

    I measured the side toe rails @ 2 7/8" high, 2 1/2" at base, 2 1/4" at top (tapered). I need 36' feet for one side X's 2 = 72' feet total, bow toe rails a little different about 6' feet and curved stern rails = 4' feet. I have received recommendations for: White Oak or Black Locust for internal structure members, that are sealed with epoxy to ...

  14. Toe Rail Replacement: Teak or Mahogany

    11 posts · Joined 2011. #1 · Oct 20, 2011. I'm replacing the toerail on a 1963 Columbia 29 MkI. I'm trying to decide which wood to go with teak, mahogany or a false mahogany like Shorea spp.. I'm also on a budget so I'm wondering if teak or true mahogany are truly worth the cost. Before you answer, consider my hull deck joint.

  15. Sailboat Restoration : Removing toe rails and a trip to the emergency

    "Tour Our 30ft Sailboat (Sailing Wanderlust) - Sail The World" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2stuOGgHCg --~--Its our wedding anniversary, we head down to ...

  16. Toe Rail Replacement

    Both toe rails appeared to be replaced properly but the fasteners were different. In my case the port side has flat head screws and the starboard side has round head screws. The toe rails were made for the fasteners that are there but they were different. This is just a cosmetic item but it bothers me. The point is carefully compare your toe ...

  17. Day 20: Moscow

    Today is the day where we had originally hoped to visit Stalin's bunker. This hope was dashed as we found out a week or two before the trip that it was cancelled for some unknown reason (we later guess it may have had something to do with the May 9th celebrations). Instead we opted for a tour…

  18. Home Window Replacement Companies in Elektrostal'

    Find replacement window contractors near me on Houzz Before you hire a replacement window contractor in Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, browse through our network of over 203 local replacement window contractors. Read through customer reviews, check out their past projects and then request a quote from the best replacement window contractors near you.

  19. Restoring the Toe Rails

    This episode is about doing our toes! More than a year after removing them, we put the toe rails back on the boat.Check out or Facebook page here: https://ww...

  20. Door Replacement Installers in Elektrostal'

    Door dealers are responsible for a variety of services, including door installation, door replacement, door repair and custom door design. If you need a new door, Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia door dealers will help you determine what kind you need, as well as shape, color, size and more. From barn doors to French doors to front doors ...

  21. Teak toe-rail replacement

    replacing teak toe rail been there. No tricks involved. Drill/chisel the bungs and remove the screws. Some screws may come out clean, but you will likely have to break away some of the old teak and then grab screws with a vise grip. Clean the screw holes and fill with epoxy with thickener. Mill a new rail from teak from local handwood lumberyard.

  22. From Moscow to Elektrostal by Train from €3.00

    Travel from Moscow (Russia) to Elektrostal (Russia) by train (52km): schedule and information to the train connection. Compare fares and buy your ticket.

  23. Toe Rail Replacement

    I have a 28.5 that had it's toe rail damaged a couple of years back in a storm. I've recently tried to find a replacement but to no avail. The guys at hunter sent me to Taco Metals. Taco Metals wouldn't even talk to me since I don't have an account with them. They sent me to Land and Sea who...