westerly twin keel sailboat

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Why twin keels are making a comeback

• Theo Stocker
• March 20, 2019

French boat builders are leading the way with versatile new twin keel boats. Theo Stocker went to discover the appeal and how to dry out in style

There are a significant number of sailors who prefer boats that can take the ground

Bilge keels can be a divisive topic. While it might seem like the majority of new boat buyers are in favour of fin keels, there is a significant undercurrent of sailors who prefer boats that can take the ground.

While fin keels offer a deeper centre of gravity, marginally less drag and more lateral resistance, making them theoretically better at sailing to windward, they are a relatively recent development and it’s not long since all yachts were long-keeled and could comfortably dry out on legs or alongside a harbour wall.

In the tidal waters of the UK, where drying harbours and half-tide creeks abound, the ability to dry out can vastly increase both your potential cruising grounds, and the cost and location of your home berth.

There are a wealth of shallow draft cruisers available on the second-hand market today.

Moody, Westerly and Hunter all produced enormously popular bilge keel models, while Southerly, Parker, Feeling, Ovni and Allures have been making lift keel and swing keel yachts for years.

Drying out opens up new cruising grounds

Latterly, it is the French centre-board yachts that have proved most popular for the adventurous sailor keen to get off the beaten track. That may explain why bilge keels have rather waned.

There are some new kids on the block, however, that are reinvigorating the concept.

Most notably, La Rochelle-based RM yachts offer a range of epoxy-infused plywood boats that can take the ground between their two keels and a weight-bearing rudder.

Hot on the heels of these French class leaders are Brittany yard Marée Haute and their Django brand, which produces lightweight GRP pocket cruisers from six metres up to 12 metres.

While they offer deep fin and lift keel options, it is their twin keeled versions that are currently proving most popular. So where better than Brittany to go for a test sail?

We went along to try drying out in the latest incarnation of these new and interesting twin keel cruisers.

BILGE KEEL OR TWIN KEELS?

There have been many design variations that come broadly under the term bilge keels. Strictly speaking, bilge keels are in addition to a long central keel, fitted near the bilge, where the hull turns from the bottom to the side of the boat.

Traditionally, these were non-structural, shallow and long, largely intended to reduce rolling. Twin keels, in contrast, replace the central keel entirely and the boat is structurally adapted to make these the main ballast-bearing hull appendages.

Some early twin keel moldings simply added two shallow-draught keels either side of the centreline, at right angles to the waterline and parallel to the centreline, but these boats often tended to sag to leeward when sailing upwind, and sometimes lacked the proper hull reinforcement at the attachment points.

More modern twin keels tend to be much better hydrodynamically aligned and, some argue, provide at least as much lateral resistance as a single keel, though in theory, more drag.

A boat with two keels will tend to be heavier because of the additional reinforcement needed to bear the loads of the ballast and of drying out, and will usually have a higher centre of gravity because of their reduced draught. Again, modern construction, narrow-chord keels and ballast bulbs all help to reduce these effects.

1 FINDING A SPOT

The art of drying out is all about finding the right spot to take the bottom. In an ideal world, you would find somewhere that is totally sheltered.

Luckily, when drying out you can tuck in much further than you normally would, but you don’t want any swell coming through that will lift the boat and drop her on her keels in the crucial moments that she is settling down, or refloating as the tide returns.

Most twin keelers will be designed to withstand some wave action on the keels, but you don’t want to push it. You then need to find an area of seabed that’s as level as possible. Despite the fact that you are suspending the boat’s weight at over a metre’s height, the wide set keels ensure she is very stable, so unless you are on rocks, you should be fine.

Finding a sheltered anchorage without too much swell is vital when drying out. Credit: Alamy

The type of bottom makes a difference too. Rocks will tend to be uneven and could damage the keels, although smaller stones won’t be a problem.

Gravel, sand or mud are ideal and will normally be pretty level. Hard sand is the ideal as you will then be able to walk to and from your boat with ease at low tide, but it’s worth having a pair of wellies on board for the inevitable muddy puddles that will be left as the water recedes.

Before you decide to dry out, it’s crucial to plan ahead. You might have enough water to get in on this tide, but you don’t want to get neaped if the tides are dropping off.

Similarly, have a look at the forecast. If the wind is forecast to change while you are dried out, check that the anchorage will remain protected.

Don’t forget to note the barometric pressure and general wind direction, which can have a significant impact on the predicted tidal heights.

While charts will help, local knowledge is king. Almanacs and pilot books will give useful advice for where to go, but ask other sailors too.

Locals may well know little spots that are well and truly off the beaten track.

2 ANCHORING

Once you have chosen where to dry out, you will need to anchor. If you are in an open bay with plenty of space, a single bow anchor will be fine.

It’s an odd feeling waiting for your yacht to go aground

If it is important which way you are facing when you dry out, however, such as on a sloping beach, in a narrow river, or if there are other boats around, you will need to lay both a bow and a stern anchor to control your position.

In drying harbours, there may already be moorings, often fore-and-aft, to stop the boat from swinging.

3 PREPARING THE BOAT

Fit any legs or transom support

You may need to rig extra gear to keep the boat upright. Some fin keel and lift keel boats will have drying-out legs.

Bilge keelers with reasonably long keels fore and aft will be stable enough fore and aft with no additional gear, but more modern twin-keelers often aim to create a tripod, between keels and a weight-bearing rudder or an additional leg.

The Django 770 has an adjustable transom leg. While this is weight-bearing it’s more of a stabiliser and should be set slightly short in a swell.

4 DRYING OUT

If you are in a place you are familiar with and have dried out in before, you should be safe to anchor or moor the boat securely and head ashore while the tide goes out.

If you are somewhere new, however, it is worth staying with the boat for the critical period that the keels are taking the bottom until the boat is securely aground.

It is worth staying on your yacht while it is drying out if you are stopping somewhere unfamiliar

This is particularly true if your boat has drying out legs, as the relatively small surface area of the leg could end up on a rock or a soft spot, and will need adjusting and tensioning to keep their boat comfortably upright.

5 HIGH AND DRY

If you are lucky, you will be able to walk ashore at low tide without getting your feet wet. If you are going ashore for a while, make sure you check the tides — you may need to carry the tender to the high-water mark if you don’t want to swim back.

It is a good chance to check your hull fittings

In most places, a pair of wellies will help when walking through mud, or over rocks. You may need to lower the bathing ladder to climb down from the boat, and to get back on when the tide is out.

Fabio Muzzolini is the sales director for Marée Haute, the Breton builders of the Django range of twin-keeled yachts

If you’re in a narrow river, low water is a good opportunity to have a look at exactly where the channel goes.

The boat will be very stable once dried out, but be careful about putting too much weight on the bow — it’s probably a good idea not to have more than one person on the bow when dried out.

A couple of buckets will also come in very handy.

Fill one of them up before you lose the water so you can wash your feet once you’ve walked back across the sand or mud.

The other bucket is for calls of nature, as you won’t be able to flush the heads.

6 REFLOATING

Afloat again and ready to sail

Waiting for the tide to return is the easy part, if all crew are back aboard.

As soon as the boat is floating, remove any drying-out legs or supports — these are remarkably easy to forget, but could cause real damage if left down.

Don’t forget to lift the bathing ladder too.

Retrieve your stern anchor first (you can do this when the tide is out if the conditions are right) and then weigh the bow anchor and you’re off.

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Ladyship: Reinventing a Westerly Pageant 23

Posted by Rob Hoffman | Boat Reviews

Ladyship  started life in 1971 as a twin-keel Westerly Pageant 23, exported from England to a Westerly dealer on the lower Chesapeake Bay. She moved from there to an owner in Virginia and somehow ended up in Corpus Christi, Texas, where she had a couple of owners. We suspect she might have been sunk at some point, possibly the victim of a hurricane, as we found hidden mud debris inside her that could not have arrived there otherwise.

When we found her, she had been confiscated for non-payment of yard storage and was in a salvage yard about to be scrapped. We bought her through an eBay ad. She had no trailer, but had her mast and boom, albeit in sorry shape.

I had been intrigued with twin-keelers for quite a while after reading about Lord Riverdale’s exploits with  Bluebird of Thorne , his twin-keel ocean racer. I then read a treatise by Bray Yacht Design in Canada that further served to kindle my interest. This is perhaps the best argument in their favor and is well worth reading:  Bray Yacht Design – Twin Keels .

From a practical standpoint, the Westerly Pageant also boasted interior accommodations still unmatched in any other 23-foot sailboat. It has more than 6 feet of standing headroom below and an enclosed head. The storage capacity is also comparatively large and, while not ever considered a “racer,” it was built in the early days of fiberglass boat construction under Lloyd’s Registry inspection. If anything, it is overbuilt by today’s standards and very solid, if comparatively heavy. My challenge was to see if we could substantially improve the performance of this very roomy, comfortable, but rather stodgy old British design and still retain most of her original character and benefits that are so enduring.

Major surgery, we cut our the aft cockpit seats and cut a hole in the hull

Making a plan

I retained the services of Cortland Steck, the same naval architect we had worked with before on our Alubat modifications (Good Old Boat, March 2013). Cort, who had been with Hunter Marine for quite a while, and I worked together to come up with this makeover of our Pageant 23. We decided to call her a Mark II version, as her changes were substantial enough to almost make her a different boat from the original Laurent Giles design. Westerly built 551 Pageants over about a nine-year production span.

There are always things that hindsight would dictate be done differently, but for the most part, we consider the project to be quite successful and the boat has performed well over several cruises and even in a regatta where she garnered second place on elapsed time in a field of about eight other sailboats of various designs, some of them much larger.

As well as generally cleaning and refinishing the boat, we made a number of major changes.

The rig was enlarged a little to add a bowsprit and a removable inner forestay. The new bowsprit is made of ipe, a hardwood that is considerably stronger than teak. An inner “soft” forestay now carries a small soft-luff roller-furling (non-reefing) lapper jib that is sheeted to new inboard tracks on top of the cabin. It can be easily removed and stored below when we want to use the larger 130 percent genoa on the headstay roller furler. We use the inner headsail in heavier wind conditions rather than reefing the big genoa, as it has a more efficient shape and can be sheeted closer inboard for higher pointing ability. It replaces the original baby stay, which is no longer needed since we added swept-back spreaders and moved the shroud chainplates aft. Sail area has increased a little as a result and the original tendency to carry too much weather helm has been eliminated by the bowsprit.

Hunter Riddle of Schurr Sails in Pensacola, Florida, designed and built the new loose-footed mainsail and both headsails. As cruisers, we do not normally carry a spinnaker, but the boat is rigged for one.

A new mast tabernacle was fabricated that allows the mast to be stored on the boat when in trailer mode. The pivot point is above the boom, which stays mounted to the tabernacle and does not need to be removed for travel. The original Proctor mast was reused, stripped of its gold-colored anodizing. It was refurbished with new swept-back spreaders that take the shrouds to new chainplates about a foot aft of their original position.

We rebuilt the aft end of the cockpit

I’m a big fan of a sturdy arch assembly on the stern, and I’ve used one on both of our boats. In each case they were built strong enough to serve as the structural attachment point for a split backstay. In  Ladyship’ s case, the arch also holds an elevated top-mounted traveler that controls the boom and the mainsheet. The traveler and mainsheet lines are led down the sides of the arch into the cockpit through blocks and cam cleats. The top of the arch is a fine place for mounting larger solar panels, and  Ladyship  carries two 100-watt panels as well as antennas on fold-down mounts for travel. The arch also supports the boom and mast when the mast is down and  Ladyship  is in travel mode on her trailer.

The sides of the arch structure carry a swiveling outboard motor carrier for the dinghy, a hard-case LifeSling MOB (man overboard) device, a center-mounted block and tackle for lifting the main propulsion outboard motor out of its well high enough for service, and a solid attachment point for the lifelines. The “roof” provided by the arch also serves as a connector point for a canvas panel (removable and without any frame) that extends overhead coverage all the way aft from the dodger. All this makes the cockpit very protected and secure. LED lights mounted under the arch illuminate the cockpit at night.

The outboard motor is raised and lowered on slides inside the well.

Outboard motor

A winch powered by a 12-volt motor provides the muscle.

The most invasive and extreme departure from the original design is the use of an outboard motor in a built-in well that allows the motor to be retracted vertically with a 12-volt winch motor, thus removing all prop drag under sail. A pair of spring-loaded bomb-bay-style door panels automatically close and seal the hull aperture as the motor and prop travel upward.

In order to build the motor well, the original tiller and rudder were removed and the stern cockpit locker and a portion of the cockpit were cut away. A new vertical workboat-type tiller controls a new transom-mounted blade rudder via a line-and-block system. The use of a vertical tiller that does not sweep across the sitting area increased the usable space in the smallish and deep cockpit.

Bomb-bay doors close the motor well when the outboard is retracted. The guard around the propeller pushes the doors open when the motor is lowered.

Moving the rudder aft to the transom also required the fabrication of a new rudder mount and reinforcement of the transom to take the additional loads. The rudder’s new location places it in the propeller’s thrust stream power and makes turning in close quarters like having “power steering.”

Ladyship  originally had a small Volvo MD-1 inboard diesel. The motor in use now is a 20-horsepower 4-stroke Tohatsu with a normal short shaft and a low-speed pusher prop. It has turned out to be more power than needed, but was originally selected for its larger alternator. In hindsight, I would now choose something smaller like a Yamaha 4-stroke 9.9 high-thrust motor, which would be smaller and lighter and still able to achieve hull speed. The trade-off for lower alternator output has been more than made up for by the 200 watts of solar panels we have on the stern arch.

Both sides of the new motor well are now lockers with removable tops for access. One of these lockers houses the 18-gallon gas tank and the other houses the 12-volt winch motor for the motor-lifting rig, the starting battery, and general storage for fenders and other equipment. Tracks on the tops of these lockers support removable one-person seats on each side of the center motor well.

Both of our boats have a very sturdy boarding ladder that’s permanently mounted on the stern and folds up vertically to be secured under the arch. These ladders can be deployed instantly and extend downward enough to allow the boats to be boarded easily and safely while on their trailers.

Down below, most of the original design and layout was retained. Because the boat no longer carries an inboard diesel, that space was used to install a Mermaid water-cooled air-conditioning system with vents that discharge into the saloon and, via ducting, into the V-berth area. This unit uses one of three Marelon below-the-waterline through-hulls to bring in cooling water for its compressor. As we sail mostly in southern climates, that makes  Ladyship ’s interior very comfortable on hot and muggy nights in a marina. We have no AC generator, so the air-conditioning is for dockside use only. At anchor, there is usually enough breeze to keep the cabin cool.

Ladyship  has a small enclosed head compartment, which now houses a marine head from SeaLand that sits atop its own gravity-fed holding tank. It has no flush plumbing to clog, just a large foot-operated ball valve. It uses a little fresh water to flush. The tank is connected to a deck pumpout with a Y-valve, so the contents can be discharged overboard via a through-hull with a 12-volt diaphragm pump where that’s legal.

The original stainless-steel freshwater tank located under the V-berth was retained with the addition of a top-mounted inspection port for cleaning. It holds about 13 gallons and is filled through a deck plate. The boat had a foot pump that fed one fixture in the galley sink from this water tank. We added a small 12-volt pressure pump to power this system. It now also supplies flushing water to the head and also to a hose bib mounted in the cockpit for rinsing things (like dogs). This hose bib can be back-fed with a hose and pressure reducer from dockside if desired.

The galley is minimal and includes a small sink with one freshwater faucet. We did replace the old countertop with a new one of Corian. For cooking, we use a non-pressurized two-burner gimbaled Origo alcohol stove. For refrigeration, we carry a single 12-volt Engel MRO40F-U1 fridge-freezer recessed into a cutout in the port quarter berth top adjacent to the galley. We use neither of our quarter berths for sleeping and they now serve for storage only. To access the aft portion of these old quarter berths more easily, we installed a pair of aluminum hatches on the cockpit seats. We installed another matching hatch on the cockpit sole for access to the bilge pumps and the air-conditioner’s cooling-water pump. There is also some storage there for a toolbox.

Ladyship’ s saloon has a new fold-up table that lowers into a double-berth position. The forward V-berths are also comparatively large and quite comfortable. We had new cushions made of 4-inch closed-cell foam covered with gray Sunbrella fabric.

The boat originally had a vinyl headliner with a foam backing that had been removed. We elected not to replace any of it, but instead we cleaned the surface and painted it with a single-part epoxy semi-gloss paint over a primer coat mixed with microsphere insulating beads.

As built, the boat had fixed saloon windows and only a pair of small round opening portlights in the head and locker areas. We removed the saloon windows and replaced them with smoke-gray Plexiglas panels that cover the entire area around the cutouts. Four new Vetus opening portlights with screens were then fitted in the Plexiglas. New round Vetus portlights were also installed forward along with a pair of rectangular side portlights for additional ventilation in the V-berth. A forward hatch over the V-berth was rebuilt, reglazed with gray Plexiglas and fitted with a solar-powered vent. New window and cabin interior trim was built of mahogany and stained to match what was left of the original interior woodwork.

The electrical system

The boat had no electrical system when we rescued her. There were remnants of old wiring that had to be removed before we completely re-wired her for both 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC circuits. Shorepower (30 amps) is brought aboard though an external plug aft that has a DEI Marine isolation device on the ground wire. The boat has several internal GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) AC sockets, and the air-conditioner has to have shorepower AC as well.

The boat has a Magnum MMS pure-sine-wave inverter/charger on the DC side that feeds a house bank of two GC-12 golf cart batteries. They give us a house capacity of 360 amp hours, which is sufficient for the electronics, Engel fridge, and all the LED lights throughout the boat.

Our electronic package includes a VHF radio and a GPS chart plotter with Wi-Fi capability. The entertainment system is a Tivoli CD player and FM-XM stereo bookshelf system mounted to the forward saloon bulkhead. The boat has active AIS (Automatic Identification System) installed and uses LED running lights. We have a tiller-pilot autopilot. The instrument package includes a conventional bulkhead compass in the cockpit and a single multi-function display head that displays information from the depth sounder and the masthead-mounted sensor for wind speed and direction.

A custom Blue Seas breaker panel controls both the AC and DC sides. The entire DC panel supply is fed through a DC-DC converter that stabilizes the 12-volt power and prevents any voltage spikes that might kill the LED lights. The boat has several internal 12-volt cigarette lighter outlets and a single fan in the V-berth. One of the 12-volt sockets has a cell phone USB charger built into it.

We use a Blue Sky Energy MPPT solar charge controller to handle the power input from our two solar panels that charge the house bank. Our charging sources for the batteries are the solar panels, the motor’s alternator output, and the Magnum inverter/charger when on shorepower.

We moved the house bank of batteries to a more amidships location and left a smaller starting battery aft for the motor. The motor is connected directly to this smaller 12-volt battery and, when it’s fully charged, the engine alternator’s output is then automatically directed to the house bank via a Balmar parasitic charger. The engine battery and the house bank are normally isolated from each other but can be combined in an emergency.

One of the cast-iron keels, the aluminum arch, and the lifelines are all electrically bonded to the mast for a lightning-discharge path to the water.

Rob cut about 6 inches off the bottom of each keel with a gas-powered concrete saw.

The sail area and the ballast/displacement ratio were recalculated to evaluate what could be safely done to improve performance. Naval architect Cortland Steck determined that our keels could be shortened by about 6 inches to give us a more favorable sail area/displacement ratio in the high teens and also to reduce wetted-surface area. These boats were over-ballasted to begin with and can benefit from some ballast removal. The specified cast iron (about 600 pounds) was removed using a gas-powered concrete saw with a diamond blade — not a job for the faint of heart!

To maintain and improve our pointing ability, we reshaped the keels’ airfoil profiles to make them slightly asymmetrical, as was originally desired in the Laurent Giles design but not implemented by Westerly due to production cost considerations. The inside surfaces of the keels were built up by about ½ inch at the apex of the chord section and the external sides were flattened some by shape sanding before all the corrosion pitting was filled. Both were then faired out and painted with an epoxy barrier. The resulting asymmetrical profile shape tends to lift the boat to weather and also reduces heeling a little.

The keels are attached to the boat with sturdy 1-inch-diameter stainless-steel bolts. We inspected them closely when we dropped the keels to clean and reseal the hull-to-keel joints with 3M 5200 and found them to be in great shape. Because the boat has no inboard engine and attendant prop shaft,  Ladyship ’s bilges are normally completely dry. The air-conditioner’s condensate never gets into the bilges because it is removed by a venturi suction device powered by the water stream exiting the cooling water circuit.

Artist Bill Barnhart adds finishing touches to the crazy topsides!

Miscellaneous

The boat has an automatic 12-volt bilge pump and a manual diaphragm bilge pump with the pump handle socket in the cockpit.

Externally, we were able to repair and refurbish the original teak rubrail while using an automotive spray enamel to repaint any of the deck and topsides areas that we did not cover with Kiwi-Grip non-skid product.

A new cockpit dodger was built by JSI in Florida, who also built the stern arch and mast tabernacle. They also did the new lifelines and supplied a lot of the running rigging and new standing rigging.

We carry three anchors: a primary Bulwagga, a second claw-style on the bow, and a single smaller claw as our stern anchor. I fabricated new PVC chain pipes for the two bow anchor rodes that are now led down into a separated stowage area all the way forward under the V-berth. The rode for the stern anchor is stowed adjacent to the fuel tank locker.

We carry  Ladyship  on a custom aluminum tandem-axle trailer with surge brakes. The trailer has an extending tongue that allows for launching at most ramps. After the modifications to the keels, the boat now draws 3 feet and, including the trailer, weighs in at around 7,500 pounds. We pull with a GMC 2500HD diesel truck.

The hull’s paint job was done by a friend and fellow sailor we met at Lake Havasu. Bill Barnhart is an internationally recognized fine artist, painter, print maker, architectural designer, and sculptor. He’s also a fine sailor and a boat restorer of considerable skill.

Ladyship is frequently trailered, albeit behind a ¾-ton truck.

Good Old Regatta fun

Ladyship  participated in the 2015 St. Petersburg Classic (Good Old Boat) Regatta, a charity event for Meals on Wheels put on every year by the St. Petersburg Yacht Club and St. Petersburg Sailing Association. Bill Wright crewed for Gabi and me and we were amazed at how well  Ladyship  performed. We raced in the Good Old Fun class that consisted of older boats of many different designs. Our class was not under any handicap rules; the boats were placed simply on elapsed time over the usual triangular club-racing course on Tampa Bay. We came in second in a field of about eight other boats and even beat a few others on elapsed time that were in the faster handicapped classes. Most of the race was in light-air conditions in which any stock Westerly twin-keeler would have found herself barely able to finish. Many of the other boats were DNF due to light air. One skipper was certain we had our motor on — LOL. We had it fully retracted!

In  Good Old Boat  May 2016, Allen Penticoff reviewed the Westerly Pageant, a 23-foot twin-keel sloop built by Westerly Marine in England. The boat had been highly customized, so we cautioned readers that  Ladyship , as she is named, is not representative of all Pageants. In fact, she is unique and well worked on, we thought readers would enjoy learning more about her refit from the man responsible. Here, in his own words, is Rob Hoffman’s story.

Article from Good Old Boat Magazine, May/June 2016.

About The Author

Rob Hoffman

Rob Hoffman says he’s much like his own good old boats…aging and in constant need of restoration. He learned to sail from a Cuban instructor in Guantanamo Bay while in the Navy patrolling the Windward Passage during the Cuban missile crisis. He’s hooked on restoring and sailing older sailboats.

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Ocean Foal, a Family Classic

This site is dedicated to Westerly’s “Westerly 22” a Denis Rayner design that was first put into production in 1963. 1963 is renowned for being  a very good vintage.

Our First Encounter

Here you see Ocean Foal when we first noticed her in front of (for this one time only) Lively Lady! Lively Lady was Sir Alec Rose’s boat that he circumnavigated the world with, returning triumphantly home to Southsea, Portsmouth in 1968. He was greeted by thousands of well wishers and given the keys to the City of Portsmouth.  He started the voyage in 1967 which was 2 years after Ocean Foal was built. Incidentally Lively Lady is presently located in Port Solent after a magnificent refit this year thanks to Alan Pridy and his fantastic team, we look forward to seeing Alan repeat that journey again very soon.

• Hull Type: Twin Keel.
• Rigging Type: Gunter.
• LOA: 22.25 ft / 6.78 m.
• LWL: 18.33 ft / 5.59 m.
• Beam: 7.50 ft / 2.29 m.
• Sail Area. (reported): 227.00 ft 2  / 21.09 m 2
• Draft (max): 2.25 ft / 0.69 m.
• Displacement: 3,150 lb / 1,429 kg.
• Ballast: 1,050 lb / 476 kg
• S.A./Disp.: 16.95.
• Bal./Disp.: 228.34
• Construction: Fiber Glass.
• Ballast Type: Iron
• Built: 1963 – 1967

Wiki https://wiki.westerly-owners.co.uk/index.php?title=Westerly_22

The Gunter Rig The Denys Rayner Gunter rigged 22, is all too often underrated as it doesn’t have a backstay or kicker, and many change the rigging unnecessarily. She has a large roller reefed mainsail, and can easily top 5.5 knots in a good breeze. I find, that when letting out more mainsheet than expected on a reach she pulls like a train and is extremely stable. In 1965 the Gunter rigged Westerly 22 “Young Tiger” did an Atlantic crossing with 3 adults, and proved what this little yacht is capable of.

Young Tiger sailed from the UK, to the Med and then on to the Caribbean in 1965 with three adults.

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Fulmar 32 mh twin keel westerly

The fulmar 32 mh twin keel westerly is a 31.92ft masthead sloop designed by ed dubois and built in fiberglass since 1979..

The Fulmar 32 mh twin keel westerly is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser.

Fulmar 32 mh twin keel westerly for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Griffon 26 Twin keel

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• Last update: 25th March 2020

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Westerly 28

Westerly 28 is a 28 ′ 2 ″ / 8.6 m monohull sailboat designed by John A. Butler and built by Westerly Marine between 1967 and 1969.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Also available with triple keel.

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• Westerly Sailboat

Westerly Sailboat Boats for sale

1972 Westerly 26 Centaur

Alderson, West Virginia

Make Westerly

Model 26 Centaur

Category Cruiser

Posted 3 Weeks Ago

The current owner purchased in 2000 and began the 5-10 year process the restore the boat. (Fuel economy is 1 gal/hr motoring.) Due to lack of time and getting older in age - The boat has sat on land for the last 9 years. She will need some TLC to get her back up into top condition. Stock #203644 Hard to find Westerly Centaur 26 twin keel coastal cruiser! The Westerly 26 CENTAUR = Westerly's most successful model and, in anything close to this size range, the most popular British production sailboat ever. It's thought that all are bilge/twin keelers This boat was built in England for the North Sea- strong and dry and rigged for single-handed sailing. Per the boat's owner, "I've had her at 8.5kts in a 25kt nor-easter in the Gulf of Mexico w/ reefed main and working jib at 4-5' - seas on the beam - and we did just fine! She has cruised the Ohio River system, Tennessee River, Tombigbee waterway, Florida and the Keys, Atlantic coast, ICW, NC Outerbanks, Chesapeake Bay, New England, Cape Cod, Hudson River, Erie Canal, Lake Ontario, St Lawrence River, 1000 Islands, Trent-Severn Canal, Georgian Bay, North Channel in Lake Huron, Lake Erie, AND she's trailer-able." Note the the seller has a custmized flat bed trailer available to move the boat or for purchase separately. --- KEY FEATURES / BOAT INFO --- * ALL block and tackle, boom vang, shackles, lines and sheets, fenders, spare parts, and equipment, etc.. are here and included with the boat. --- MODEL OVERVIEW --- She's a bright and airy boat w/ 2 opening ports - front hatch and screen doors for the companionway. A vented anchor rode locker fwd + over a dozen storage lockers throughout the boat for gear/parts/supplies etc.. Reason for selling is getting older - time to let her go and enjoy new hobbies.

Egg Harbor, New Jersey

Posted Over 1 Month

Classic English Westerly North Sea Fiberglass yacht, full sails and equipment, mounted on custom cradle, which is welded on to a heavy duty 4 wheeled trailer. (VIN # 1P94814D2WW51620 NJ tag # TBZ81B) Comes with extra sails ( jib-spinnaker- second main); new lines; all white naugahyde cushions; all hatches newly painted; anchor; life preservers; mooring bumpers. Check SailboatData.com for a history of the boat's design and features. It was designed by John Butler, one of the top British marine architects. This boat needs interior cleanup and is a lovely, safe, sturdy ocean-going sail boat. The fiberglass must be ground off and recoated plus exterior paint must be sanded off and replaced. There are soft spots on the deck and upper cabin exterior that need to be repaired. The custom cradle and 4 wheeled heavy duty trailer would be bonuses that would otherwise cost another $ 2000. The trailer hitch and brake lines need repair and 2 flat tires must be inflated or sealed. Call for details and access. The boat was previously owned by Ed May, Realtor @ ReMax of Ocean City. I have the Bill of Sale. Identical boat in the water in California is going for $ 25,000 Hull Type: Fin Keel Rig Type: Fractional Sloop LOA: 22.00' 16.71m LWL: 19.00' 15.79m Beam: 8.00' 12.44m Listed SA: 233 tt2 I 21.65 m2 Draft (max.) 3.50' 11.07m Draft (min.) Disp. 3240 Ibs.l1470 kgs. Ballast: 14551bs. 1660 kgs. SAlDisp: 17.07 Bal./Disp.: .45 Designer: John Butler Builder: Westerly Marine Ltd. (UK) Construct.: FG Bal. type: First Built: 1968 Last Built: 1972 # Built: 398 RIG DIMENSIONS KEY I: 26.00' 17.92m J: 8.70' 12.65m P: 26.70' 18.14m E: 9.00' 12.74m P~ E~ SPL: ISP: SA(Fore.): 113.10 ft2/10.51 m2 SA(Main): 120.15 ft2/11.16 m2 Total(calc.)SA: 233.25 ft2 I 21.67 m2 SAlDisp: 17.09 Est. Forestay Len.: 27.42' 18.36m BUILDERS (past & present) More about & boats built by: Westerly Marine Construction Ltd. DESIGNER More about & boats designed by: John A. Butler RELATED LINKS Westerly Owners Association www.westerly-owners.co.uk CALL ME @ 609-377-6650 TO DISCUSS

1974 Westerly Centaur 26' Sailboat

South Haven, Michigan

Model Centaur

Length 26.0

///trailer not included/// Titled and registered, currently sailed, beautifully maintained, and in the water. Slip is paid through October 15th, 2015, including electric, water, trash, bicycles, showers, free coffee, grills, etc. A beautiful classic sailboat, Serenity, is fully restored. This boat is ready to sail! Located in beautiful, South Haven, MI. Built in England, the Centaur is a real masterpiece and functional boat. All the teak and wood has been refinished and the brass meticulously polished. This boat is a real joy to sail and the powerful diesel (classic Volvo Penta MD 2B)is extremely reliable and comforting on the big lake. This boat is VERY roomy. It has 6' headroom in the cabin and the table coverts to a double bed. All New 2015: Bluewater cruising main sail with 2 reef points, 1 full batten, all possible bells and whistles Bluewater cruising Headsail 135% w/UV cover, luff tape, mainsail cover Cabin cushion covers (marine outdoor fabric) topside paint non slip coating cabin paint/varnish halyards & rigging as needed Keel's refinished, primed, and painted with 3 coats anti-fouling paint bottom painted with 2 coats anti-fouling paint Deck hardware removed and re-bedded (including windows) Keels re-bedded Rudder shaft bearing removed and re-bedded Drive shaft bearing removed and re-bedded VERY strong diesel engine serviced & injectors tested Fuel tank drained, cleaned, and refilled (very clean fuel!!) Interior painted Lifeline netting for small children/pets new fresh-water engine intake screen new water pump on engine new thermostat Equipment: Asymmetrical Spinnaker Roller Furling Headsail Loose-foot mainsail (the original roller furling boom is still operable) Composting Head (Johnson-type hand-pump head is out of the boat) Dockside Freshwater Filter System Foot Pump 17 gallon water tank Two Solar Panels Two NEW (2015) Marine Batteries All new wiring as needed. offshore life jackets radar deflector flare guns first aid kits fire extinguishers emergency hole plug kit 2 harnesses HUGE V-berth (I'm 6'4" and I sleep in it just fine!) Table legs sandblasted and powdercoated Charcoal cabin heater (burns natural lump charcoal, not the bricks)found at lumber stores. propane cook top electric oven 3 new solar vent/lights 2 anchors Ships clock, barometer, thermometer, oil lamp, compass V-berth dresser Cockpit cushions lifesling MOB system dock power cord bumpers, dock lines, etc. Many Other Details Have all manuals and historical documents

1973 Westerly Centaur

Jacksonville, Florida

Category Sailboats

1973 Westerly Centaur,Westerly Centaur 26, 1973 for sale. Clasic British sailboat in fair condition. Full headroom, Yanmar diesel 18 hp, enclosed head, 4 sails, full galley, etc. Moving must sale. Asking around $2800 or make an offer. Call or text at 904-631-0473, Ivan $2750, 9046310473

26 FT SAILBOAT WESTERLY CENTAUR

Beaufort, South Carolina

1973 26 ft Westerly Centaur for sell in great condition. The boat runs perfectly and is ready to sail. Has a strong Yanmar diesel inboard engine, tiller, three jibs, one main sail, cushions, bimini top, bathroom, two quarter berths, one master berth, salon (folds into another bed), bathroom, kitchenette, dual keeled (great for shallow waters and stability), extra set of original windows, ac unit, radio, new carpet, teak wood, and interior lighting. Can be used as a live-aboard. It comfortably sleeps 4, but has the room for 6 people. Very easy to maneuver and set sail with one person. Relocating to the city so won't be able to bring it along. -Josh-

Westerly Centaur 26' sailboat, inboard diesel, with trailer

North Ridgeville, Ohio

69' Westerly Centaur 26 ft sailboat, inboard Volvo 25 h.p. diesel, twin keel, with trailer, tiller steering, 4 sails, roller furling for head sail, 6' 4'' cabin head room, sleeps 6, head , galley, ice box, restoration is 75% completed. 6500 lb heavy duty construction built to Lloyds of London standards. $6500/Possible trade for motorcycle.

Classic English Westerly North Sea Fiberglass yacht with Yachtwin (Evinrude) 6 hp outboard motor (in excellent condition), full sails and equipment, mounted on custom cradle, which is welded on to a heavy duty 4 wheeled trailer. (VIN # 1P94814D2WW51620 NJ tag # TBZ81B) Comes with extra sails ( jib-spinnaker- second main); new lines; 30 gallon wheeled plastic refuelling tank with hose and nozzle; plastic removable on-board tanks for motor; 2 batteries; all white naugahyde cushions; all hatches newly painted; anchor; life preservers; mooring bumpers. Check SailboatData.com for a history of the boat's design and features. It was designed by John Butler, one of the top British marine architects. This boat needs interior cleanup and is a lovely, safe, sturdy ocean-going sail boat. The fiberglass must be ground off and recoated plus exterior paint must be sanded off and replaced. There are soft spots on the deck and upper cabin exterior that need to be repaired. The custom cradle and 4 wheeled heavy duty trailer would be bonuses that would otherwise cost another $ 2000. The trailer hitch and brake lines need repair and 2 flat tires must be inflated or sealed. Call for details and access. The boat was previously owned by Ed May, Realtor @ ReMax of Ocean City. I have the Bill of Sale. Identical boat in the water in California is going for $ 25,000 Hull Type: Fin Keel Rig Type: Fractional Sloop LOA: 22.00' 16.71m LWL: 19.00' 15.79m Beam: 8.00' 12.44m Listed SA: 233 tt2 I 21.65 m2 Draft (max.) 3.50' 11.07m Draft (min.) Disp. 3240 Ibs.l1470 kgs. Ballast: 14551bs. 1660 kgs. SAlDisp: 17.07 Bal./Disp.: .45 Designer: John Butler Builder: Westerly Marine Ltd. (UK) Construct.: FG Bal. type: First Built: 1968 Last Built: 1972 # Built: 398 RIG DIMENSIONS KEY I: 26.00' 17.92m J: 8.70' 12.65m P: 26.70' 18.14m E: 9.00' 12.74m P~ E~ SPL: ISP: SA(Fore.): 113.10 ft2/10.51 m2 SA(Main): 120.15 ft2/11.16 m2 Total(calc.)SA: 233.25 ft2 I 21.67 m2 SAlDisp: 17.09 Est. Forestay Len.: 27.42' 18.36m BUILDERS (past & present) More about & boats built by: Westerly Marine Construction Ltd. DESIGNER More about & boats designed by: John A. Butler RELATED LINKS Westerly Owners Association www.westerly-owners.co.uk CALL ME @ 609-377-6650 TO DISCUSS REASONABLE OFFERS - LET'S TALK!

27' O'Day sloop - moving away from ocean - must sell soon :(

New York, New York

Make O'Day

Model Sloop

Category Cruiser Boats

Aquarius is easy to single hand, is great for day sailing yet sleeps five to six in four bunks (two in the fore-peak, one to two amidships, one on either side of the engine bay that has drop down sides for engine access). She's great for either a beginner or a seasoned sailor. O'Days are very popular, often raced, and there are several internet sites with information, forums and and offering of parts. I've had the pleasure of owning Aquarius for ten years now and I love her. We're relocating and after much procrastinating I realize that the ocean will just be too far way. The previous owners had her in Oyster Bay NY for many years. She is surprisingly fast yet very stable (2,230 lb lead keel) - although not suggested, we've powered through 6'-8' seas with her. She sails very close to the wind, is roomy with loads of storage, and you can stretch out on the 6'-6" cockpit seats with custom cushions (both with lockers beneath) or seat several. There's approximately 6' headroom. She has a 30 horse power Universal Atomic Four engine whereas most boats her size have either 9.9 HP outboards (which cavitate in lumpy water) or 7 to 13 HP diesels. She starts fast, runs clean. Uses about a gallon an hour. These are so popular that new parts are still made for it - even an optional hand crank! Here's one major source of new parts, service and info: moyermarine.com. She has a new jacket side plate from Moyer Marine. There's incredibly easy access to the engine from both sides and the front. There's even an engine "room" light. She has the original 12 gallon main gas tank along with the then optional 6 gallon plastic auxiliary tank (located on a shelf in the port side locker). Aquarius was made just before the cost of oil, gas and related resins sky-rocketed and caused many boat companies to skimp on construction and then to go out of business. Her hull is solid fiberglass - no balsa to worry about, and is about 3/8" thick. The prop is bronze. The prop shaft is bronze with a recent sacrificial zinc. I consider her the best year - 1975 had the best interior layout and has a lead ballasted fin keel with skeg mounted rudder (offering some protection to it). She has a 4' draft and nice freeboard which allows for usually dry sailing and calm guests.. My son worked at West Marine during school which gave us great discounts - she has new lifelines, new lazy jacks on the main boom, new main-sheet, new bronze thru-hull valves and Y-valve for the macerator toilet, new VHF radio, solar powered charger to keep her batteries charged between use, original Loran C, new coil and ignition parts, new water pump impeller, new engine exhaust pipe to the water muffler, new rubber diaphragm on her bilge pump, a cockpit tent in almost new shape, recent 12 volt receptacle, dual batteries with selector and gauge, tiller steering with nice looking new laminated wood tiller, old auto tiller, dual cockpit scuppers, cockpit cushions, anchor, teak and stainless steel swim ladder between the split stainless steel rear pulpit, auto-tiller, loads of storage, two sinks, cabin lights, electric macerator toilet between the fore peak and the main cabin with folding teak doors for privacy, curtains, cabin inclinometer, hanging locker, cockpit "table" (portable, that spans across the seats), storage under all the berths, a 12v hand vacuum, carpeting, a large ice box under a lid in the counter that drains to outside, alcohol stove plus a propane grill that attaches to hang off of the stern. There's a GPS/Depth sounder along with the original one that still works by a light revolving within its face and is entertaining to watch. There's roller furling, a wind vane and radio aerial atop the mast, stainless bow pulpit, a boom vang, a whisker pole for downwind sailing, genoa in reasonable shape, two jibs (one is older and a bit soiled), two mainsails (one also is older and a bit soiled). Two new stainless fishing rod holders, I've several life jackets, am/fm/cd stereo, full safety equipment including fire extinguishers, radar reflector ball, first aide kit, floodlight, Lifesling overboard rescue system, a flare gun, horn, boat hook etc. I can throw in a new medium sized dog life jacket if the buyer needs it. The upholstery is in very good condition. Loads of interior teak in good condition. The former owner gave us the original set of plastic dishes, silverware and ice tongs, and I'll give them to the new owner so they can stay with the boat. What I'm aware of: minor scars from dock battles etc, and a couple of soft deck spots which I was planning on repairing this season. The hardware & connections to the hull have been resealed over the years and should be checked. We had a problem with gunk in the main tank so we had it drained and we were planning on replacing it. We've been running off of the 6 gallon tank which has given us more than enough range. The sink hand pumps aren't working but I've a new electric pump to pressurize the system waiting to be installed (Whale offers refurbishment kits if you'd rather hand pump). The hatch boards are ready for replacement, last year there was minor weeping at the toilet - it may need tightening or a new gasket, and there's some minor rust here and there on the engine. Very little rain water weeps in from the ports - I do a yearly sealing but this year haven't gotten to it yet. She's a pretty dry boat. Aquarius has loads of spare parts including a new small holding tank for the toilet, new deck hardware along with a good-sized used winch for the cabin top to make single handling even easier, new electric water pump to pressurize the water system, new electric bilge pump - all ready to be installed. Obviously I love the boat - we weren't planning on moving from Brooklyn but the house that we've bought was an amazing deal in a historic small town and we realized that's where we want to semi-retire. She's out of the water in Gateway Marina (opposite Floyd Bennett Field) in Brooklyn open to the bay and to the ocean. The marina owes us a launch but it seemed to make sense to allow prospective buyers a look at her bottom. Here's more info: oday.sailboatowners.com, odayowners.com and iheartodays.com/model_oday_27 There was an ad in Craigslist for her but it was put in without my knowledge by a marina service employee. It was taken off. The boat is sold as is, and will need to be picked up or sailed from her location in Gateway Marina, Brooklyn, NY by the new owner. Storage and shipping arrangements are the responsibility of the purchaser. You may see the boat by appointment. She is fairly priced - serious offers only please. Thank you for looking. single handling, Pearson, Catalina, sloop, beginner boat, inexpensive sailboat, C&C, Hunter, Tartan, Morgan, Cal, Beneteau, Columbia, Macgregor, Irwin, Alberg, Vanguard, Islander, San Juan, Lightning, S2, Cape Dory, Hobie, Seidelmann, Tanzer, Island Packet, Herreshoff, Newport, West Wight Potter, Sunfish, Gulfstar, Laser, Ericson, Santana, Westerly, classic plastic, Contessa, stable, solid, best sailboat, day-sailer, daysailer, open water sailing, safe, high freeboard, cruiser, masthead sloop, dinghy, racer, catamaran, trimaran, diesel, sail, boat, fiberglass, awesome boat, catboat, rowboat, cheap sailboat, tender, anchor, coastal cruiser, Gulf, Bombay Clipper, Island Packet, Westerly, inboard, Universal, Universal Atomic Four, bronze prop and shaft, Nonsuch

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WESTERLY WINDRUSH 25 (sold) – £2,495

LOA: 7.64 m

Beam: 2.26 m

Draft: 0.76 m

Construction: GRP

Hull/Keel: Twin

HIN: 333843

Description:

The Westerly 25 is a small sailboat designed by the maritime architect Denys A. Rayner in the mid sixties. The Westerly 25 is built by the British yard Westerly Marine Ltd. The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year – a few hours of work, that’s all. The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 0.76 – 0.86 metre (2.49 – 2.79 ft) dependent on the load.

Engine(s) & Electrical:

Nanni 10hp, 2 cylinder diesel (new in 1999). Serial number: 14355. Engine hours: 0. Drive type: shaft with 3-bladed prop.

Accommodation & Below Deck:

5 berths, 2 cabins, standing headroom, vinyl upholstery, saloon table, gas cooker (new), galley sink, Jabsco sea toilet.

Deck & Canvas:

Masthead sloop rig, stainless steel standing rigging, aluminium spars, rope running rigging, roller headsail furling, mainsail (new in 2014 & unused), genoa (new in 2014 & unused), 2 sheet winches, anchor, aft cockpit locker, boathook, overall cover, cockpit cushions.

Navigation & Safety:

Navigation lights, flares.

Miscellaneous:

Viewings are by appointment only. For an instant insurance quote call Euromarine Insurance Services on 01843 603345 or click on the link below: www.astonlark.com/euromarine/

Disclaimer: The particulars detailed herein are intended to give a fair description of the vessel, but their accuracy cannot be guaranteed. These particulars are supplied on the understanding that all negotiations shall be through Highway Marine Ltd who are acting as brokers for the vendor. The vendor is not selling in the course of a business unless otherwise stated. The prospective purchaser is strongly recommended to check the particulars, and where appropriate, at his own expense, to employ qualified independent agents to carry out a survey, and/or any mechanical and electrical checks.

Comments are closed.

• 2023 Tide Tables have arrived! December 1, 2022
• THE QUEEN’S FUNERAL September 15, 2022
• Thank you Your Majesty September 8, 2022
• Storage Unit Available Immediately June 29, 2022
• (no title) February 24, 2022
• LEST WE FORGET November 11, 2021

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Since the early 1970s Highway Marine has provided numerous services to both sailers and motorboat owners from our base at Pillory Gate Wharf in Sandwich.

Ever since its inception, the company has been run by the Blackmore family and continues to go from strength to strength encompassing many new aspects and services.

Company Highway Marine Limited: Directors: DJ Blackmore, LA Blackmore. Registered in England No. 1198109. Registered office: 27 New Dover Road, Canterbury, Kent.

Useful Information

Bridge contact numbers 01843 585624 Ramsgate Harbour: 01843 572 100 Dover Harbour: 01304 240 400

Emergencies: 999

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Highway Marine Ltd Pillory Gate Wharf Strand Street, Sandwich Kent CT13 9EU England

Boat Sales: 01304 613925 [email protected]

Boatyard & Berthing: 01304 613925 [email protected]

Accommodation : 01304 611433 [email protected]

© 2019 Highway Marine Limited. All Rights Reserved. Terms and conditions Highway Marine Limited: Directors: DJ Blackmore, LA Blackmore. Registered in England No. 1198109. Registered office: 27 New Dover Road, Canterbury, Kent. Website design by: Oast House Media East Kent.

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Twin Keel sailboat?

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I am considering buying a Westerly Centaur for some coastal cruising and an occasional trip out into the Mexican Gulf. I am not able to find any local knowledge here on the panhandle of Florida about this type of boat. Also my online search has produced little useful information. Does anyone here have any knowledge or experience with this type of vessel? Thanks  

Try UK Google for more UK-centric queries. There's one stored in the local boatyard. twin keels good for areas with large tides, boats rest easily on the bottom when tide's out. The one I saw has iron keels, the rust was very apparent.  

Looked around as you suggested mazzy and found some decent info, thanks. Not alot of info on sailing characteristics or stability. I guess the fact that the most positive things writen about them is the ability to beach them when the tide goes out answers many questions about them.  

You got your answer...the purpose of a twin keel is beachability...but the resulting sailboat is slow, doesn't point well and is tender (tippy...). So wether it will work for you depends on what tradeoffs you want in your next boat....  

Here are some links to some info on twin keels: Roll Attenuation and Bilge Keels Why Twin Keels, by John Letcher -site by Nels Tomlinson Bray Yacht Design and Research Ltd. - The Advantages of Twin Keels I've owned two twin keel boats over the years. The first was a Westerly 25 built in 1967. The drag is increased and they can't point quite as well as a single keel boat. The second twin keel boat I owned was a 35" custom design that was bought from me by her designer and some changes made, most notably the change from single rudder to twin sailing rudders and a centreline rudder for powering. After these modifications she was sailed from Victoria to New Zealand and back by her designer and performed admirably. Quite an interesting boat in many respects. Here's a link to her listing as she is currently for sale: Vela Yacht Sales (Victoria, BC) Brian  

Here are some links to some info on twin keels: Roll Attenuation and Bilge Keels Why Twin Keels, by John Letcher -site by Nels Tomlinson Bray Yacht Design and Research Ltd. - The Advantages of Twin Keels I've owned two twin keel boats over the years. The first was a Westerly 25 built in 1967. The drag is increased and they can't point quite as well as a single keel boat, but overall a good boat. The second twin keel boat I owned was a 35" custom design that was bought from me by her designer and some changes made, most notably the change from single rudder to twin sailing rudders and a centreline rudder for powering. After these modifications she was sailed from Victoria to New Zealand and back by her designer and performed admirably. Quite an interesting boat in many respects. Here's a link to her listing as she is currently for sale: Vela Yacht Sales (Victoria, BC) Brian  

I did find a review by Jack Horner. Google it,, as I don't have the link handy  

Hi, I own a Westerly Centaur here in Bermuda and I'm pleased with it. I've had it offshore without concern, and it was apparently sailed from the UK to the US by one of the previous owners. It's stable and tough but not fast. I single-hand it as the Admiral don't sail! Here's some more links; Westerly Owners Association Westerly-Owners : Westerly Owners Group There's a Westerly Centaur that is raced in the Jester Challenge by Alan Charleton - http://www.jesterinfo.org/  

Thanks for the links. Ever have her out in anything rough? And other than slow, is there anything you would feel a need to warn someone about?  

It is one of those "potty British things". Twin keels aka blidge keels work marvelously if your prime consideration is letting the boat sit stably on the bottom while a daily 20-foot tide runs in and out. In parts of the world where there is only a single two-foot tidal rise (i.e. Florida) the entire concept of twin keels, which add lots of drag and cost and give you back nothing in return, is unheard-of. And, outside of the UK and perhaps Nova Scotia, the resale value will be equally unheard-of.  

A few issues ago there was a good series in the UK mag Practical boat owner, it covered all the Westerlys  

Never had it out in any real heavy weather so I can't comment on that. In simply crappy conditions its fine and dry. Any Centaur is going to be an older boat now (mine is 37 years old) so look over it very carefully. Practical Sailor did a review in 1999 which was favorable. One of the editors of Sail magazine lived on his, and there's at least one documented circumnavigation ('Lookfar'). I found this link this morning BLUEMOMENT • View topic - Westerly...a proper British built boat -Horst  

Hi all We have the second “Bluebird of Thorne” she was the second 48ft bilge keel boat built by Lord Robin Riverdale who then went on to build the third “Bluebird” in association with Arthur Robb. Our Bluebird was built in 1939 and is still going strong, she is based in the UK where we can have up to a 40ft rise and fall on the tide. For about 20 years she was on a drying mooring and so took the ground without any bother twice a day. The last approx 20 years she has been afloat in a marina during the summer season, however we winterise her in a part of the harbour that dries for 10 days at a time and she doesn’t float for this period. Regarding sailing speed and pointing, well she is a cruising boat she doesn’t point quite as close as a modern fibre glass boat, but due to the fact the keels are toed in slightly this lifts her up to windward, so she points pretty well for a 70 yr old boat (if I am doing as well at 70 I wont be complaining). Speed, well although she has a larger wetted surface she is bound to be slightly slower however we are very modestly rigged (she is ketch rigged and I am sure a modern boat of a similar size would have a larger sail area) however we carry our sails for longer and she is very happy at 7.5 – 8 Kts with the wind slightly aft of the beam in 20-23 Kts of wind. We fitted a feathering propeller a number of years ago and this has mad a huge difference in light airs. We have sailed many miles in the nearly 40 Years she has been in our family and we wouldn’t swap her, she has a very good sea kindly approach, when you get her heeled one of the keels is nearly vertical, offering the most resistance against leeway and helping to carry he up to windward, the other keel is nearly horizontal offering the most amount of righting capacity, we also find that this keel has a very good dampening effect in rough weather. We have had here offshore on several occasions without any problems or worries, in fact due to her shape in the bow, she hardly ever slams unlike most of my friends boats that are flat under the bow and do, I find this very tiring. For our cruising area she is great, as she can take the ground without any worries, although I am not sure of requirement in Florida if you don’t have the tidal range. Please don’t hesitate to contact me if I can offer any further assistance.  

Back in the late 1960's I worked as a sailing instructor in a sailing school that used Westerlys. The fleet was a mix of bilge keel and fin keel versions of the same boat. (I think they were roughly 24-26 feet but I can't recall the model although Centaur sounds right.) There were clear differences between the bilge keel vs fin keel models, especially at either end of the wind range. The fin keeled boats sailed way better on all points of sail, but the difference was especially noticable in light air, a chop (the bilge keelers seemed to really roll more in a chop), and in heavy air, where the bilge keelers were slower, had trouble tacking through the wind and waves and so were prone to getting caught in irons and backing down and then take some scary knockdowns. We typically had to reef the bilge keeled versions before the fin keel versions. The biggest problem that we had was freeing them when they grounded. Once planted they were really hard aground. We could always refloat the fin keelers by heeling them and backing out. That obviously did not work with the bilge keelers. To be frank, bilge keels would be a deal killer for me in most areas of the world. Jeff  

Hi Jeff I can understand you having problems “freeing them when they grounded” and I am not disputing you did, but we had the complete opposite on several different occasions whilst tacking up a couple of rivers that we know we would go from one river bank to the other and when the speed started dropping or you could feel her aground we would tack and come straight off as she rounded up and set off on the next tack, much to the annoyance to the locals who were panicking thinking we were going aground. We draw about 7ft heeled and 5ft upright. We sometimes visit several marinas in our local area and if we were a traditionally keeled boat we wouldn’t be allowed in due to going aground. As regard to speed we used to cruse with another family who at the time had a brand new Oyster 435, ok she was 5 ft shorter than us but comparing an modern designed boat to one that at the time was nearly 60 Years old the oyster would point slightly better and was slightly faster but not by a huge amount. On some occasions when it was blowing hard we would be faster than them (probably due to the water line length). I have increased the light air sailing speed by including a big cruising chute and has helped thing along a lot. We don’t find the boat roll’s too much, in fact with a enough way on she rolls a couple of times but due to the extra keel area and wetted surface she seems to dampen the roll. My father has just completed a trip on a modern fibre glass boat, and he said I wish I was on our boat as it was so uncomfortable due to the slamming up forward. It’s all a compromise between economy and perfection, and everyone wants different things out of there boat…… as said before I wouldn’t of thought there would be much benefit of having a bilge keel boat in Florida, due to the lack of tidal range.  

It's not all negatives. A boat with twin keels isn't that tender. As mallo posted, when you touch by mistake after releasing the sheets you draw less, freeing the boat to float off while when you free sheets on a single keel boat you suddenly draw more and are more likely to stay aground. There are hundreds if not thousands of twin keel sailboats in the U.K. as well as around the world. Below are two diagrams showing two points going for twin keel boats. The picture is a boat I used to own that sailed Victoria to Mexico and back and Victoria to New Zealand and back. Also google "Bluebird of Thorne" to learn more about twin keel design and theory. Bluebird was a 50 footer designed for Lord Riverdale by the esteemed Arthur Robb in the fifties and she met her design goal and was sailed across oceans extensively. I believe she is still sailing somewhere. With respect to Jeff, while not in the category of a Farr, I think they are as good or better than many old shoes touted as "ideal". The Centaur is one of the most popular boats in the U.K. in its size for that era. The Westerly I owned was built in 1967 and I am still impressed at its construction. Different strokes for different folks. How boring if all boats were the same. Brian  

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Thank you all for your input. After reading what I could find, and thinking about it for a couple days I have decided she is not for me.  

"You got your answer...the purpose of a twin keel is beachability...but the resulting sailboat is slow, doesn't point well and is tender (tippy...). So wether it will work for you depends on what tradeoffs you want in your next boat...." Click to expand...

Mallo I clearly respect your experience with the venerable and famous BlueBird. She was truely a remarkable and innovative design. But she has very little resemblance to the Westerly's in question. I will say that it is rare to have a chance to do months of side by side testing of different keel types on otherwise identical boats. My experience was with fin vs bilge keel versions of the same boat and essentially the model in question. My experience was across a wide range of windspeeds and in multiple groundings and that is the basis of my comments. There was a very observable differences in speed and handling between the two models in questions. Since the sails were rotated between boats for a variety of reasons, but mostly because we taught new sailors to rig the boats from bare, so that sails did not make a difference, neither did which instructor was on board. I was one of the faster sailors amoungst the group and when sailing the bilge keel boats, I could not keep up with the slowest instructors on the fin keel boats, but I could easily run off and leave them when I was on the fin keel boat. One of the other more experienced instructors and I experimented sailing side by side on quite a few occasions, and the bilge keel boats clearly made a combination of more leeway, less speed, and could not point as high. (I say combination because you improve pointing angle a little but speed disappeared and leeway increased or head off a little and get a little more speed and less leeway at the price of pointing lower. Even so the fin keel boat was better at all three.) While a bilge keel boat does not have to be less stabile, achieving an equal stability to a fin keel comes at the price of a combination of higher drag and more weight. With regards to the grounding issues, I have seen versions the diagrams shown above. In reality, the Westerly's do not have BlueBird's widely skewed keel angle. The keel tips are closer together and at normal sailing angles the leeward keel was not all that much further down than the windward keel. In a grounding the leeward keel leveraged the windward keel into the bottom jambing both and making rotating the boat very difficult. We used these boats to teach how to free yourself from running aground. Whatever the throry, after dealing with the grounding problems with freeing the bilge keelers (even using the Boston Whalers to help tow them off) we stopped using them to teach freeing the boat from a grounding. Respectfully, Jeff  

Mallo My first was a westerly 25. The second was 35' long, a custom design with the hull and deck built by Bent Jesperson in Sidney B.C. and the interior was finished by Mike Betts. Michael McGrath was the designer. Actually designed by Michael for himself, a friend talked him into letting him build to the design. The construction was strip plank western red cedar with glass over. the keels were steel with ballast in the lower portion and tankage above. I was the second owner. The original owner sailed to Mexico and back. I sailed her locally only. The designer purchased her from me in 1995 and did an extensive refit which included adding twin rudders while keeping the central rudder for powering. He subsequently sailed to New Zealand and back from Victoria. In my experience, while a twin keel boat is probably a bit slower because of the drag issue, I don't find them tender. They are not a state of the art racer but then a great many cruisers are not either. Michael and Jane DeRidder from B.C. built a flush deck 40' twin keel boat in the 60's and sailed her extensively in the Pacific and are now in New Zealand. They post regularly on setsail.com (the Dashew's site). Here's a link to the listing for Marimba2 as she is now listed for sale. Michael redid the whole exterior but for the most part kept the same interior as I had with the exception of changing the u-shaped settee port side to a straight settee with pilot berth above and outboard. She is a very interesting boat and has more adventures ahead of her. Vela Yacht Sales (Victoria, BC) Brian  

Bluebird, 1939, radical new twin keel design. OK, so 70 years later, like the secret power source of Atlantis, the modern world has lost all knowledge of why this is a better design, and it has disappeared from the face of the earth? I don't say the mass market is always right, just that when something becomes THAT SCARCE there is usually a good reason it failed to take the world by storm. Or stealth. In the 80's didn't they promise us the Scheel Keel would dominate the world within ten years? Did anyone count to ten yet?  

Hellosailor If everybody sailed a Catalina, or a Farr 38, or an old shoe like many on this site own and love the world would be a very boring place. I wonder how many Sailnet members own boats that are based on designs from the early part of the last century or even earlier? How many sail schooners? How many sail Bristol Channel Cutters - based on the Falmouth Working Cutters? How many would lust after a design like the Westerman 40? We all know or should that sailing is the world's most expensive way to travel slowly. If one picks a Westsail or an old schooner or a racing tri they all enjoy what they sail. Enjoyment is not measured in speed for all. Character and style rate highly with many. Variety can be found even in some designers portfolios. The Westerman 40 is designed by Nigel Irens who also designed Idec and many other racing tris. A lot of designs are regional and just as the east coast has its share of boats harking back to a century ago England has its unique designs. Twin keel boats are very common in the UK - not so much here but they can be found. They can represent good value and are often very solid cruisers. If you want to race you won't buy one. The same can be said for a Westsail 32 or that old schooner. Should they be denigrated? I don't think so. How many twin keel boats have you sailed by the way? Respectfully Brian  

Hi Jeff Thanks for the information regarding comparing the Westerly’s, I would expect a fin keel to be slightly faster than a bilge keel due to the extra wetted surface (extra drag) and on a cruising boat that shouldn’t be much of an issue, I am sure that the Bluebird’s would have been faster if they were a fin keel configuration, I also agree because I had a conversation with Robin Riverdale about the fact that the modern bilge keel boats were a traditional boat with slight modification and two plates just stuck on, they didn’t necessarily have the angles and toe in as the boats Robin had produced. I haven’t sailed in the more recent Bluebird’s they were more along the lines of the moody etc. Its interesting what you said regarding the fact you couldn’t keep up with the fin keeled boat when in the bilge keeled boat, but could when the other way round, how much time/distance were you loosing/making?? Hellosailer It probably was a radical new design in the 1920’s and when Robin built the first one and he must of thought he could better with the design, that was why he built the successive ones. Another fact is that they still build bilge keelers (well they do in the UK) now however it’s quicker, less work and less expensive to build a fin keel as a bilge keel and at the bottom line this is what the customer wants. This is why they aren’t too popular in non tidal waters (well minimal rise and fall). I would not like to pay to have a hand built steel boat built now, it would be prohibitively expensive. If I took you out sailing and didn’t tell you the boat was a bilge keeler I doubt you would think the boat was slow… Life would be very boring as Mitiempo says if we all stood by a standard fin keel, he brings up a few good points. Also having a boat with a bit of character, history makes for some of the fun, after all that’s why we sail…… Respectfully Michael  

Michael, "slow" is a relative concept. Bluebird might be a fast boat, for many reasons. And equally important a sweet boat, what used to be called "yar". But these days, if a boat can't qualify for a negative PHRF rating, well, she may not be slow but she's also not fast. (G) Odds are there's a lot lost in getting to that negative PHRF rating, but there's also a market still for "better" boats, and twin keel variations simply haven't taken any market share that I know of--aside from places where the water is so poorly disciplined that it slips away right out from under the boats at least once or twice a day. (VBG)  

A couple quick notes here, first of all, I certainly agree with Mitempo's point about the desirability to have a diverse collection of boats available to suit the diverse range of tastes out there. In my own case, I have enjoyed owning and sailing a very wide range of boats, and in particular have enjoyed seeing their virtues and liabilities. Although I currently own and lean towards modern performance sailing craft, I certainly enjoyed owning and sailing my 1949 wooden Folkboat or my 1939 Stadel Cutter which was based on the 1800's era pilot schooner George Steers. I want to clarify that I do think that there are venues for which a bilge keel boat makes sense but based on my experience with bilge keels. It is only because of the venues in which I sail, and my tastes in how i sail that I can't imagine a circumstance in which a bilge keel boat would make sense. With regards to HelloSailors comments about the Scheel Keel, although the Scheel Keel as originally patented by Henry Scheels is comparatively rare today, the basic principles of the Scheel Keel design concept (a bulb keel whose shape is opimized to minimize drag, increase endplate effect while lowering the vertical center of gravity of the boat) is widely used today in everything from basic production cruisers to grand prix race boats. Jeff  

Hi Gonesailin40, It's probably too late to be of help to you now - you've probably got your boat! However, for what it's worth, the Westerly Centaur is very highly thought of here in the UK. They are one of the most popular yachts ever built, you see more of them around than practically any other type. I have never owned one myself but have sailed them and have had friends who have owned them. They are very seaworthy boats, and sail better to windward than people generally expect a bilge keeler to. There's a surprising amount of room in them and they are generally well built. I think that you need have no qualms about buying one, they're good. Regards, Ben (UK)  

I have been sailing a Westerly W 25 for several years. She is as she came from the factory and I am loth to change anything. Pointing? Well I am slower but I go upwind close hauled with in 2 or 3 degrees of the best. Bow on W 25 is a bit blunt so to keep speed I need to bear off a bit. Certainly a bit slower but when the rest head in I am still happy. Very stiff and hard to knock down. I have been out when the sane stay ashore. The Westerly's or mine are slege hanner tough. Hit a cement block at 7 k with starboard bilge keel. Beached her to check damage and nothing. Cement block.. knocked chunk out of that... but hope it does not happen again. Rust? Never mind they are cast. Chip it out if you want and fill and smoth. Lay the epoxy on wax paper and lay it into place smoothing to shape. You or I at least end up sneaking into places maybe one sould stay out of as they draw so little water and I ofen beach to explor with a stern anchor out and bow tied to tree or rock. The W 25 has three keels. Center and two bilge. Rudder is protected by the center keel. Resale? You get one of these and why sell it? This one stays in the family and grand children are learning to sail on her. Mine saled over to Nova Scotia from Ireland. Owners manual says she will ride out any storm. I hope I never need to find out but I expect she would do much better than 90% of what goes past me on race day. ( I do not bother with races but when any sail boat comes along face it you are racing? ) Not for everone but I love the old lady.  

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