sailboat wood heater

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Belowdecks & Amenities

Navigator Wood Stoves Provide Classic Heating and Cooking Onboard

Custom-made, cast-iron stoves are functional works of art..

Tucked into a wooded hillside in the San Juan Islands of Washington state, Navigator Stove Works is a young family operation attached to a long history of vintage stoves. Formally of Brooklyn, N.Y., and now based on Orcas Island, Navigator produces three compact wood-burning, cast-iron stove models for use on land and at sea. Originally designed for use aboard boats, the scaled-down stoves are also popular for cabins, RVs, and other small structures on terra firma.

Two of the Navigator stove patterns-the Sardine and the Little Cod-originally were made in the Lunenburg Foundry in Nova Scotia, Canada. The company, founded in 1891, manufactured a wide range of marine equipment for commercial vessels and yachts. Lunenburg ceased producing stoves in the early 1990s with the closure of its iron foundry operations. Navigator produces the Sardine and Little Cod using Lunenburgs foundry patterns.

The third model, the Halibut, is designed by Navigator and is based on old East Coast favorite, the Shipmate No. 212. Navigator also has a fourth stove in the works: a biodiesel prototype, the Herring. The Navigator stoves are custom made by order only, and the company is currently producing about 75 a year.

Safety First

As with any stove or heat source aboard, users must follow manufacturers installation instructions explicitly and heed their warnings to ensure safe operation. Installed in accordance with the manual, all Navigator stoves meet American Boat and Yacht Council liquid and solid fuel boat heating systems standards. These and other applicable U.S. and Canadian fire standards are also outlined in the manual, which all prospective buyers should study closely. For safety reasons, the stoves should not be used on a gasoline-powered boat.

The iron stoves are cast in the northeastern United States and then shipped in sections to Andrew Moore at Navigator Stoves on Orcas Islands. The stoves are sold as plain iron with a traditional stove polish, but a customer can opt to add one of six porcelain enamels -grey, black, mint, deep mariner blue, dark green, or classic barn red.

Moore prepares, polishes, and smooths the iron on each stove at his workshop, and then tweaks and assembles those ordered as polished iron. Stoves that are ordered with the porcelain coating are sent to the Midwest for coating, then flat-packed back to Moore for polishing, tweaking, and assembly. Lead times vary from one week to eight weeks, depending on availability.

All three stoves are designed to burn natural wood and charcoal. The two smallest models are best for heating 300 square feet or less. The largest model, the Halibut, is able to burn coal. The stoves are not intended for use with any other fuel sources. For use in warmer months, Navigator has designed alcohol drop-in burners. The drop-in burner literally drops into the stove top and burns denatured alcohol. The burner element is self-pressurizing and is located in the cast-bronze burner housing to minimize fuel spills. One 2-ounce filling will burn for 20 minutes. Running in simmer mode, the burn time is doubled. Tests show it takes 8 minutes to boil a liter of water. The alcohol can be refilled for longer cook times.

Navigator Stoves also sells many of the accessories associated with installing and maintaining a wood burning stove, including stove pipes, deck heads, and heat shielding. Heat shielding can be a critical issue, and Navigator offers custom-made shielding panels made from either 20-gauge stainless steel or 16-ounce copper.

The smallest and most popular model, the Sardine is a mere 12 by 12 by 11 inches, and weighs 35 pounds. The heat output is 7,500 to 18,000 BTUs.

Navigator Stoves suggests using this rule of thumb for determining required BTU: 15 x volume of space to heat = required BTUs. If extreme cold temperatures are expected, one might want to use a factor of 20. This compact Sardine is best suited for small boats or sleeping cabins aboard larger vessels. It is two-thirds the size of the Little Cod and costs $699 for plain iron and $1,199 for the porcelain enamel option.

First produced circa 1917, this solid-fuel stove was initially designed to keep fishermen warm and well fed as they jigged for cod. Simple and reliable, it is economical to run and maintain. It is intended for use in the galley, cabin, or pilothouse, or small spaces on land. By adding one or two of the alcohol drop-ins, it can essentially replace any alcohol stove onboard. The Little Cod measures approximately 13 by 18 by 14 inches and weighs 55 pounds. It produces 10,000 to 28,000 BTUs. It has a stainless-steel sea rail to keep cook pots in place, and has holes in the legs for securing stove to a platform. It is priced at $1,125 for iron and $1,675 with porcelain or $1,875 for red porcelain.

The Halibut has cast-bronze sea rails and corner posts. It has a glass firebox door, stainless-steel ash pan and oven rack, an oven thermometer, and a Halibut relief on the door. The Halibut doesn’t come up to temperatures as fast as the little stoves, but it does offer the oven for onboard cooking of bread, potatoes, and pies. It can also burn coal, whereas the smaller stoves are designed for wood and charcoal only. The platform size for the Halibut is 26 inches wide minimum, and 18 inches deep. The oven is 9 by 9 by 8 inches, and the stove weighs 175 pounds. The approximate heat output is 25,000 to 35,000 BTUs. The stove costs $2,850 with porcelain.

Herring Prototype

Navigator Stoves is also currently working on a diesel/ biodiesel prototype stove. It is intended to be 28 inches tall with a 12-by-12-inch footprint, and weigh 55 pounds. The Herring will have a glass-plate front and a herring relief on the front plate. It is designed with a “blue flame” natural draft burner from Europe and no fan or electricity is required. Tests by Navigator have shown a very clean, steady burn. The expected BTU rating is 16,000. Navigator is also working on a design for a water heating loop.

The Navigator stoves are functional art, a nostalgic throwback to simpler times. If convenience is your top priority, then don’t bother. Like any wood-burning stove, these come with soot, ash, and smoke, all of which can find its way onto the deck and cabintop. The cast iron construction is rugged, but it is also heavier than other heating options. Wood stoves take longer to heat up then a gas oven, and they require supervision and maintenance. But, notes Moore, that is the point, really.

A woodburning stove involves the sort of philosophical shift that a wooden boat requires: Convenience and ease of maintenance are not the aims. If you subscribe to the idea of a lifestyle of the present, in which you tend your fire, not just switch it on, then these well built, finely finished stoves fit the bill.

The stoves can be installed by an experienced and involved do-it-yourselfer in a couple of weekends, with the lions share of the time dedicated to thinking and planning, rather than installing.

Practical Sailor Value Guide: Woodburning Stoves
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Once the overall scheme was signed off by all, it was time to start with the surgery. Any sailor knows the trauma of adding a new hole to the boat, even above waterline… and this one was a doozy: a very large opening in .2″ steel topped with Treadmaster, backed with a very dense .75″ marine ply, and blocked for the extricated pole amidst an expanse of foam insulation filling a grid of steel ribs. After much head-scratching and calling out reference marks ‘twixt deck and pilothouse, we punched a pilot hole, then broke out the jigsaw. Here, Andrew’s assistant Jeff from Indian Summer II is carefully slurping up any remaining steel bits to prevent future rust spots…

The guys headed back to the shop to conjure a few parts, including a trim ring that compensates for the 5° camber of the deck and supports the beautiful cast bronze deck iron . This was all bedded in place using screws for clamping pressure, prompting the first of many comments that it looks like it was meant to be that way. (2012 update: I later had serious leak problems because the Treadmaster was not cut back far enough to allow a fillet of sealant… and various sealing problems developed including failure of the primer-Dolphinite interface and a crack in the trim ring from too much screw tension on the curved deck surface. I finally pulled the ring, which popped off with no effort, gave it a proper coat of wood sealer followed by Brightside polyurethane, then bedded it with 4200 after cleaning the old residue) :

This made for a nicely finished exterior appearance, but from below we could still see the wood “underlayment” – meaning that it would be exposed to radiant heat as well. The hole had been lined with copper sheeting as a first step:

In a flash of inspiration, Andrew conjured a pair of aluminum components that would further reflect heat while allowing cooling airflow. It also prompted one of many amusing photographic moments, given all the awkward angles necessary when working on a boat…

With the hole prepped, it was time to get the stove mounted. They used the cannibalized wood from the original pole to frame out the plywood wall at the end of the galley counter, allowing a clever hack in which a routed channel created clearance for a row of 1/4-20 T-nuts. The whole assembly is thus removable without dragging out the refrigerator that’s on the other side of that wall… a process that is complicated further by having to remove the foot pumps under the galley sink to provide enough fridge-movement clearance to get an arm into the cavity. Boats are for contortionists, something I am most emphatically not .

When the shelf was installed, Andrew immediately insisted that I park on it to convince myself that it is sufficiently robust…

With that test passed, he added a stainless heatshield to protect the wood… and then the stove was centered and bolted to the shelf, its tripod legs insuring that no amount of heat-induced casting warpage would cause rocking. A few leveling washers induced general positioning consensus, then it was down to the final steps.

Pipefitting is something of an art, it turns out, and I was surprised at how fiddly this part was… but patience and collective insistence on perfection eventually yielded a smooth and well-considered run. Here we are eyeballin’ and tweakin’…

Now you can see the final configuration of the deck-iron interface, with the heat shield spaced away from the headliner giving a strong sense of the etymology of stove-pipe hat :

Topside, we have a couple of operational choices. The smoke head can be plugged directly into the deck iron for a low-profile look like this:

Or, as is the case at the moment in the oppressive wind and rain of an incoming cold front, we can insert a 2-foot pipe section to improve draft and disperse the startup smoke above the level of the dodger:

And it’s done! With the pipe all fitted and already showing a patina from the test-firing, here are three views of the finished Little Cod installation on Nomadness . From the passage to the aft cabin:

Lying on the sole looking up (with the draft damper visible in the angled section):

And from the center of the pilothouse, showing the loading door on the end:

And, you see those little holes on the front corners of the top shelf surface? One of the major issues here is safety — not just keeping skin off the dangerously hot stove pipe, but keeping fast-moving knees off the sharp shelf corners, one hand attached to a handhold at all times whilst bounding along in a seaway, and careening bodies off the stove itself. Removing the original pole, which was necessary to allow pipe to pass through the deck in the only available location, complicated the problem; it’s a large enough cabin that one could get thrown off-balance easily without something solid to hold on to at every stage of a traverse from one point to another.

I have added a few more strategically-placed handholds around the boat, but the central fixture is a sort of “caging” of the stove made with 7/8″ stainless rail and Sea Dog stainless fittings .

The other huge issue, actually the biggest trade-off of this whole project, was the impact on engine and generator access. Massive sole panels have always lifted to the 90° position and locked in place with springs, but now they only make it to 60° and have to be held up manually… obviously inadequate, although the most-frequently serviced bits are still easy to reach (Racors, tank-selection valves, oil filters and dipsticks, the sticky shutoff rail on the injector pump that needs an occasional tickle, coolant caps, and so on). The raw-water impeller on the main engine, already a major pain to change, is now more so, and I shudder to think of having to change out the starter with this reduced clearance.

We’ll immediately fashion a couple of latches to support the access panels from the stove shelf, but if serious surgery is necessary, it will be necessary to unscrew the hinges and lift the units completely out (removing the stove as well if major gymnastics are going to be involved). Fortunately, it’s all serviceable by design.

Other than that detail, I am thoroughly delighted with this new life-support component in the technomadic escape pod. An efficient heat source is now readily harvestable, and even a small fire renders the cabin cozy without the Webasto roar or the shore-power requirements of an electric heater. And to anyone who Googled their way to this page whilst contemplating a stove for their boat… I can warmly recommend Andrew and his products. He exudes an old-fashioned sense of quality craftsmanship rarely seen these days, and this little stove of time-tested design is clearly going to outlast the captain of the ship.

Updates…

First, in the accessories department, a woodstove thermometer is essential. I use the Rutland one, which I got on Amazon, and it works well (though the Inferno is now getting better reviews):

Second, I finally got around to building the safety cage around the stove, and it has been a surprisingly pleasant addition to the boat… actually better than the post that had to be removed for the installation. I used standard 7/8″ stainless rail and fittings (I bought mine from Defender).

Third, it’s pretty easy to light with the normal methods (paper and little scraps of kindling), but if you want an effective shortcut, try these little fire-starters. Actually, I usually make my own with sawdust and melted wax, poured into egg cartons… but that’s a messy job and kind of a nuisance. The commercial ones work great, store forever, and save a lot of fiddling. The ones at that link should be broken into quarters, good for 144 fires.

The heavy stainless shelf took threads nicely, and where the angled braces meet the thinner heat shield they are bolted deeply into the supporting structure. I haven’t tested it with airborne body weight yet (and hope never to!) but it easily handles the dynamic loads of rough conditions and grabbing it hard to prevent a fall. The height was optimized for leaning, and the top rail will get decorative hitching some rainy night.

The latest additions (2012) are a Caframo Ecofan and a window! The fan is not as hearty an air-mover as a dedicated DC one, but who wants to cable and listen to another motor? This uses a thermoelectric element to generate power from the difference between the hot base and the relatively cool fins, and does a nice job of gently moving air across the stove and distributing it around a small boat cabin. I had considered mounting mine to one of the disks (with high-temp adhesive, given the enamel), but thought better of it… that’s precious horizontal surface most of the time and the fan lives in a foam nest off-season or underway.

As to the glass window… Andrew now offers a glass-front option when you buy one of these, but quoted me $400 for a retrofit. As much as I wanted one, that was a bit too rich on my current budget for a purely aesthetic item. This launched me on a lengthy quest, culminating at last in a source for custom pyroceramic shapes (not glass) that can take about 1300° F continuous and 10% overtemp for a short time… a healthy margin of error for a wood stove that will probably never see more than 750° F for more than a few YIKES moments as you frantically reduce the draft. It also survives thermal shock very well; here’s mine along with the Caframo fan:

It casts a beautiful warm light around the cabin, reflecting nicely off the overhead, and it’s great to see the fire without having to open the door! I still think it would be better to get the glass front option at the time you buy a new stove, but if you already have a Sardine , Little Cod , or Halibut … you can buy a piece of 3/16″ Neoceram, 6″ diameter, with pencil-grind edges from One Day Glass . (I was reselling them for a while, but don’t really need to be in the loop… gotta choose my battles!) It will pick up soot from the flames, but is easy to clean; just use a wad of wet newspaper and some of the ash from the firebox.

Follow-up (2013) note on fuel

When I had a domestic woodstove, I avoided burning driftwood because of the salt content… mixed with sticky creosote, it leaves a hygroscopic layer that absorbs moisture year-round and can quickly destroy cast iron or non-stainless stovepipe. Since this stove is enameled inside and out, I have not worried too much about that, though it is still not ideal.

Researching this recently for a discussion thread on Facebook, I turned up an interesting article (no longer online) from a chimney sweeping expert that advises against using one of my favorite fuels… mill ends. Clean, dry, neat-stacking, and often free, these cut-off chunks of dimensional lumber are really tempting, though I have noticed that they usually burn insanely hot. Now I know why (and they have other dangers as well, including salt and some nasty chemical).

Also, this classic book is worth having in your library: The Woodburner’s Encyclopedia (1976), usually pretty cheap on Amazon.

2017 Footnote

I sold the lovely Nomadness in 2016, and happily, the Little Cod did not fit the new owner’s cruising plans. I’m now installing it in a project shed near my new mobile digitizing lab, having swallowed the anchor.

Cheers, and stay warm! -Steve

29 Comments

damn, you cold water, monohull guys really DO like all the comforts of home :-)LOLOL!

OMG. I have become a monohull guy, haven’t I? Never saw that coming.

You may want to have someone who does fuel polishing to come and do a cleaning on your tanks. They treat your remaining fuel with biocide and cleaners and then pipe the fuel through filters to remove the gunk in the tank as well as the algae.

Then a treatment with biocide after that will keep the growth at bay.

Stumblingthunder

Sumblingthunder – yes, I am looking into that. Actually, I can polish onboard (two Racors and a system of valves with a transfer pump lets me move fuel among tanks, or even pickup in one and return to another while the engine is running), and I have been using biocide with the new stuff (the clean aft tank, which I just refilled yesterday). But that’s not as good as a proper tank cleaning… the question is whether or not such an extreme and expensive operation is necessary. I don’t want to wait to find out until the boat is getting thrashed in foul conditions, shaking it loose and clogging the filters…

Thanks for the comment!

Well its been a little over a month, hows the stove working out? Im looking into one for next year, and my biggest concern is that it can hold a fire overnight. Fatsco makes a tiny tot coal stove that I read an article on Good Old Boat that says it can be banked and they still have hot coals in the morning… whats your experience?

thanks deryk

Hi Deryk…

I haven’t yet tried a full overnight load… now doing the winter-moorage dance, making weekly trips to work on projects. The fires have been wonderful and the boat cozy… and it’s a great little incinerator. I’ll post when I have done some proper survival-heating!

Cheers, Steve

Just a thought that occurred regarding access below the stove. Would it work to cut that panel in half, then use a piano hinge on top to put it back together? That would allow you to fold it over itself, then open and should minimize your clearance issues. It should also be strong and fairly inobtrusive. I have brought brass hinge at Home Depot before at a reasonable price. Hope it works better than having to remove the hinges. Best of luck.

Lauren Neher

A few months have passed now, and there have been enough firings for me to have a better sense of performance. The other night it was subfreezing in the harbor, and I kept the stove going at about 450 degrees surface temp all evening. At bedtime, I stoked it full and minimized both intake and stack flow… 8 hours later when I stumbled to the galley for coffee, it was still too hot to rest my hand on (though I did not try to fire it up without kindling, as it was getting sunny).

In short, it works beautifully!

Hello, Just curious what kind of stove pipe you used? I am only finding 4 inch pipe that is for HVAC, and not for wood burning units. Thanks, Jon

Jon – I used the pipe provided by the Marinestove folks; here is the accessories page that details the pipe, shielding, bends, smoke heads, and related parts.

Cheers, and stay warm! Steve

Glad to see that your install is evolving to suit your needs. Its that element of customization that our spirited customers bring to their particular application which gives me an added boost in the shop every day. Did I mention Idaho Energy Logs to you for super long burn times? A Codger (someone who uses a Little Cod) down at Fisheries Supply in Seattle has reported incredible burn times. I need to try them. When we get into these long burn times it becomes all the more important that everyone heed the smoke/co2 alarm install recommendation. As you have witnessed boats can be tricky with air/chimney flow dynamics. Dorade vents and the like can throw a monkey wrench into the mix. Hence important to have an audible alarm alerting you to a drastic negative change in your flow dynamics. Topic shift. What do you do for hot water ? Any novel designs lurking for integrating the stove into the mix. Folks ask us from time to time and it would be a great option to be able to offer them.

Look forward to your Springtime assessment of life aboard with COD.

Cheers, Andrew / NSW

HI Andrew – great to hear from you! We just had our first burn of the season the other night, and it was quite pleasant to feel that pervasive warmth (so much nicer than the other heat sources aboard).

We picked up some very dense manufactured logs; don't know if they are Idaho. I will try them and let you know my impressions.

Thanks for the reminder on the smoke/CO2 sensors – that is in the plan for the shipnet, but I will get the hardware aboard now. Know of a combined model that is low power?

Hot water: I got rid of the demand water heater that came with the boat, installed with such a short stack that it didn't draft properly and spewed humidity/CO into the cabin. Aboard now is an Isotherm, which uses either AC (700W, well within Inverter range) or engine coolant loop. I don't have much experience with it yet, but would enjoy playing with a preheater coupled to the Cod.

Your stove always elicits admiring comments from visitors, even when just sitting there cold. I'm happy to have it aboard.

Cheers! Steve

Great job Steve! Great stove!.I am an Italian liveaboard, for 4 years in Venice (freezing cold and humid in winter) and always heating my days and night with an old wood burning stove. It makes the difference aboard. All my best and sincere compliments for your useful blog I am definitely linking your blog to mine. I row and sail to protect the water and invite people to a sustainable way of travelling and living.

Giacomo – Grazie mille!

Thank you Steve. E' un mio piacere.

I’m building a 200 sf meditation cabin on land, adobe brick. I live in northern New Mexico where worst winter temps rarely go below 0 degrees F. Will the Little Cod heat it adequately? I genuinely hope so, because I’d love to make this work out. I’m interested in the model that is red and has the glass fire door. Should we talk? Bob

Bob – I certainly think that it would work just fine in that space. The person you should contact is not me, however, but Andrew … the builder of the stoves. Sounds like a great application, and the red would be gorgeous.

How is the draft working on your little cod? I was considering going with a 4″ to 5″ adapter for a wider draft. Do you find the 4″ sufficient? Will it get a decent draft even when the setup is in “low profile” (minus the exterior chimney addition) mode?

Just want to know before I finalize my install plans, thanks!

Eric – I have never had any issues related to inadequate draft (if anything, it can be a little hard to turn down if you get it too fired up!). For this size box, I don’t see any advantage to expanding to a 5″ pipe… that’s getting into home-scale stove territory. As to the “low profile” mode, I have not experimented with that enough to answer you. I should! That is certainly how I would like it to be set up if I were in the mode of sailing/anchoring through winter months.

Cheers and stay warm! Steve

Well if you do get around to trying it, do let me know. I would much prefer to have it set up that way then have a tall chimney pipe sticking out.

I have no doubt we will both be quite warm this season 🙂

One last question actually. Do you know where they got the spacer hardware that got your pipe through the roof? I have been having a hard time finding one that will connect to 4″ pipe.

Thanks again!

Eric – you mean the deck iron? That is what the pipe connects to; no intermediate hardware. The heat-reflecting disc and hole liner were fabricated…

You can get the deck irons for 3″ or 4″ pipe from Andrew.

http://marinestove.com/Accessories.htm

It is a lovely looking stove! How is it working out, say when you’re away from civilization and other heating sources and the temperature is below freezing? Pros and cons?

Does it get much untidy in the cabin from handling and stacking the wood, or coal?

I am surprised it could still be warm after 8 hours. We have a stove in the kitchen of our house, and the wood burns down very quickly, I’d say less than 2 hours, and in the morning it’s chill.

Does the boat get dirty on the outside from the smoke?

I just fell in love with the neoceram/pyroceram window concept! We’ve got a Little Cod manufactured by the Enterprise-Fawcett foundry located in Sackville, NB, and instead of two round ports on the top surface its got one large rectangular port (the stove also came with a rectangular grilling rack that can be put in place of the solid rectangular port). I’m going to look into the possibility of getting a piece of neoceram cut to fit in place of the cast iron port but before I do I’d love to know more about your experience with your round pyroceram window. I think I’d personally go the neoceram route given the fact its used for cooktops and looks to be able to take more of a beating than pyroceram, a factor given the large area of our rectangular opening.

So, how’s your’s working out and what thickness of material did you go with (I’m assuming 3/16″)?

NICE JOB, looking at your page for ideas for an install like this for an airstream trailer, this is great!

Hi Johan, and sorry I took so long to reply! Just got through another winter…

I have been lazily using other heat sources at the dock (mostly), so I can’t report much on day-to-day operation over an extended period. From my casual use, however, I can make a few observations:

Untidy in the cabin: yes. Wood storage is kind of a nuisance, and makes me wish I had more stowage space. Mill ends are neat, but I believe I linked above to an article about their hazards (dang); harvested firewood will need to be mostly kept in a covered place outside with just the current inventory in the cabin.

Below freezing use: no problem. My boat is 44′ and this heats well.

Warm after 8 hours: not in my experience… I am willing to believe that it might be possible with practice, however, though that is pushing it (from my years with daily use of other wood stoves).

Dirty outside: I have not had a problem with that. The smoke head is on the extension pipe, and I tie the boom off to the other side.

Hello, Kai…

Glad you like the window idea! I did in fact go with neoceram… a 6-inch disc, 3/16″ thick. My only issue has been that with cooler/casual/decorative fires instead of serious hot ones, it blackens with soot. Fortunately, that is easy to clean… no need to buy the special stuff that is available; just use a crumpled wad of newspaper, moisten it, pick up some of the ash in the bottom of the stove, and give it a quick scrub followed by a wipedown with a paper towel.

Hi, I am interested in installing the “sardine” model wood stove in my first boat (Fisher37). I am concerned about sparks exiting from the chimney and setting my neighbours’ (or my own) sails on fire. Does the spark arrestor (smoke head) completely stop sparks or do you have to be very selective about your solid fuel. Cheers, Glenn

HI Glenn – I have never seen any issues with that except for a little sparkly feistiness during startup (but nothing that would be able to ignite nearby fuels). The Sardine is a sweet unit!

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Elizabeth put a Dwarf 5kw in her skoolie home 4 years ago, and it’s keeping her and her family warm while she’s building their home in Northern Vermont.

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Feb 10, 2022

Heating Our Sailboat: Diesel, Electricity or Wood, and What Kind?

Originally published in the C-Tow Newsletter

I’m not sure if you’ve noticed or not, but temperatures have started to drop again. The days are shorter, nights are longer and winter is slowly working its chilly tentacles into our daily lives. For those of us who boat year- round or live onboard, this means that we are already deep into the “what do we need to do to stay warm?” phase of the year.

Keeping warm on a boat is always a balance of many factors. The two big ones are what sources of heat are available and the second is what sources of power are available? Heaters on boats potentially use many different fuel sources from electricity, to diesel, to wood, to numerous other fossil fuels. Each has its positives and negatives. We have lived on three different sailboats and between them we used eight different sources of heat- three space heaters (two boat certified, one not), three different diesel heaters, a wood stove and a forced air heater which uses both electricity and diesel to create heat.

On our current boat we have a Webasto forced air heater, a space heater and a wood stove. Each of those heaters is great in its own way, but also has downfalls. For instance, the Webasto is great when we are at the dock. It is clean, quiet and sends warm air throughout the boat instead of just in the area where the heat is being created. It is quick and easy to turn on and off and safe and simple to run. However, it uses power, the heat from the heater quickly dissipates and it doesn’t do a fantastic job of drying out the boat. Many people absolutely love their forced air heaters and it is our preferred method of heat in the mornings or evenings when at a dock, as well as sometimes at anchor when we don’t have the time to have properly burn a wood fire. During the day while at the dock, we will also keep our space heater plugged in and running at whatever temperature is comfortable for us at the time. It is even easier to turn on and control than the forced air and it only uses one energy source instead of two for creating heat. However, if you don’t have a proper boat heater, space heaters can be extremely dangerous and in the event of a fire won’t be covered under your insurance. They can potentially fall over and cause fires, have overheating cords that cause fires, etc., and they are energy intensive, so they are not the best option for trying cut down on power bills, or for use when running off battery power.

Our third current source of heating on the boat is a wood fire place. This is my personal favourite for many reasons, including the fact that we live in a forest so it’s fairly easy to collect a fuel source. A wood fire doesn’t use any power, so even if we had dead batteries in the middle of nowhere we could stay warm, it dries out the boat quickly and releases ambient heat for hours afterwards. However, it takes a while to get the fire going, has to be stoked once every hour or two and it’s difficult to find an insurer that will insure a boat with a wood stove. Marinas also really don’t want people burning wood while at the dock. Many people also swear by their diesel wall heaters. Out of the three that we have had onboard our boats, only one of them worked as advertised. We found them difficult to light and potentially more dangerous than the other heating sources we have used. Many diesel wall heaters also need power to run their diesel pump and/ or fan, which means you are again depending on two sources of energy to keep warm. However, once they are lit and running correctly they create a lovely heat that nicely warms up a boat, burns efficiently for long periods and creates a lovely ambience.

Regardless of which type of heat you have onboard, being on the water during the winter is amazing when you can stay warm and different heating options work better for different boats and different people. It’s just a matter of figuring out which one will work best for you!

Hot Stuff – DIY Sailboat Cabin Heater

Posted by Drew Frye | Interior , Projects

A simple, low-cost stovetop heater takes the edge off a chilly cabin.

F ew sailboats have a dedicated heating system for warming the cabin, something built-in and properly vented. This makes sense because a cabin heater with a flue can be a complicated, bulky, and expensive affair, and something that’s perhaps used only on occasion. So, when it’s cool and we decide to spend a night swinging on the hook, away from shorepower, many of us rely on portable heaters, usually propane.

A portable propane heater can do the trick, but these heaters also require ventilation as they consume oxygen and emit water vapor and carbon dioxide—and produce carbon monoxide as a byproduct of incomplete combustion. The rough-and-ready solution is to crack a window, but how wide? And then how much of the heat is lost?

There is another approach, a simple, non-bulky, low-cost solution that uses an existing onboard heat source: the stove.

The stove can’t tip and start a fire (unless something combustible falls on it, which can be prevented by maintaining a clear countertop). And although stoves generally don’t include an oxygen depletion sensor like you’d find on a portable heater, it’s easy to add a carbon monoxide monitor to the cabin.

All that’s needed to turn the stove into an effective, ventilated cabin heater is to provide a heat transfer surface and a way to funnel the exhaust outside the cabin. In fact, the ubiquitous Sig Marine (now Dickinson) Cozy Cabin heaters are not much more than this: a simple burner below an inverted-can heat transfer space, connected to a 1-inch stainless steel flue.

The stove aboard my boat is an Origo 2000, a non-pressurized alcohol stove fueled by denatured ethanol. I have turned it into an efficient, safe heater by using a retired, upside-down stainless steel soup pot as the heat transfer surface, resting atop the burner. Here’s how I did it.

1-inch ribbed duct hose, stainless. McMaster Carr 5241K13, $23.80 for 5 feet
4-quart stainless soup pot, thrift store or surplus
Aluminum flashing
6 inches of 1-inch copper tubing
(1) 1-inch copper 90-degree el
Assorted small screws and two long cotter pins or nails
Plywood or similar to build slider insert, or better, install the flue through cabin roof or bulkhead if you will use the heater often

Here Is How I Did It

First, I cut a 1-inch flue opening in the side of the pot with a hole saw, into which I inserted a 1-inch copper pipe stub. I attached the pipe by slotting to create tabs inside and out, which I secured with small bolts (blind rivets would have been a cleaner solution). Next, I added a 3-inch-high flashing skirt to accommodate and hold a pot on the top. The skirt also improves the seal around the flue exit.

For the flue, I attached 1-inch (ID) corrugated stainless steel duct to the copper stub on the pot, using a cotter pin driven through both. There is no need to seal this connection because the entire length is under slight suction. This flue must rise steadily, without low spots, and be 3-6 feet long.

The first season I used my heater, I kept the exhaust system simple. I cut a 3-inch-wide board to fit the aft end of the companionway slider, drilled a hole in the board, and passed the exhaust end of the flue through it. This way, I didn’t have to drill a hole in the boat.

But after realizing my heater worked, and that there was nothing to improve, I drilled a hole in the cockpit bulkhead for a permanent flue, which is just 3 inches of 1-inch copper pipe. There’s no need to insulate the pass-through because the flue temperature never exceeds 120° F. So far, rain has not blown in, and I could easily cap it if necessary. If the wind is from ahead or the beam as it would be sailing or at anchor, the draft is fine, but if there’s a strong wind from astern—for example in a marina—it can blow the draft into the cabin. I keep a 1-inch copper 90 el, which, when pointed up, solves that.

The burner on my Origo 2000 stove is rated at 7,000 Btu. Because my stovetop heater uses the same flue size as the 5,000-Btu Sig Marine Cozy Cabin heater, I decided to not exceed that combustion rate and keep the burner valve between 1⁄2 to 2⁄3 open. This will give a heat output of about 1,500 watts, enough to fully warm the cabin of my 24-foot boat in 10-20 minutes in cool to cold weather. If I can feel some of the exhaust backing out from under the inverted pot and into the cabin, I know the burner is firing too high.

To confirm the heater’s efficiency and safety, I took some measurements. I wanted to be sure the exhaust was leaving the cabin, so I scanned the surface and flue with an infrared thermometer. The pot surface reaches about 290-340° F. By the time the exhaust reaches the outlet, it has cooled to 80-120° F, proving high efficiency. I tested the air 1⁄2-inch below the lower rim of the pot, curious whether some of the exhaust was sneaking out under the bottom; the carbon dioxide level was barely above background, and the temperature never exceeded 200° F, confirming that essentially all of the exhaust goes up through the flue.

The purpose of the flashing rim and upper pot is to add heat transfer surface area and improve heating efficiency. Most of the time, the upper pot will be empty. But if I crank the burner to high and add two cups of water to the upper pot, the water will boil in 10-15 minutes. With the burner turned down—as it should be to warm the cabin—it will simmer soup, without burning or polluting the cabin with carbon dioxide.

Another advantage my vented, stovetop heater has over a portable propane heater is dryness. Burning propane (or alcohol) produces water vapor. Dry air is nearly as important as warm air to comfort because insulation remains more efficient. An unvented heater will raise the humidity 30-60 percent, making for a clammy cabin and causing condensation on the windows—not a problem with the vented heater.

This heater will work with stoves burning alcohol, propane, CNG, butane, and kerosene , as long as the firing rate is similar. The differences in combustion are small.

Although the heater is stable enough to be used underway, the pot on top is not. Also, I don’t leave the heater on while I sleep. It’s not designed for that, and I like sleeping under a thick quilt or in a warm sleeping bag. Nor do I leave it on while away from the boat. I run it from sundown, through the dinner hour, until ready for bed. I use a carbon monoxide monitor, and when cooking on the stove, I usually crack the companionway slider to evacuate water vapor.

Just running the Origo stove for one hour with the regulator half open and the cabin tightly closed, carbon dioxide reaches 15,000 ppm and carbon monoxide level reaches 100 ppm, both well into the danger zone. A cracked window will reduce this, but unless the window is open wide enough to admit considerable draft—rather defeating the purpose in cold weather—there remains serious risk of exceeding the limits for good health and clear thinking.

Keeping a Clear Head—DF

I value my brain cells and will not take risks with them; I’ve never been a fan of portable heaters.

Carbon dioxide concentrations over 1,500 ppm affect thinking and are universally considered cause for investigation and correction. Over 2,000 ppm is considered serious by health departments. Ten-thousand ppm is the threshold of serious problems with medium-term exposure (many hours to days), and both OSHA and NIOSH limit workplace exposure to 5,000 ppm.

I did a few simple calculations for my Corsair F-24. If I run an unvented portable propane heater at about 4,000 Btu/hour (what is required for a 45° F evening), assuming no ventilation other than combustion air replacement, carbon dioxide levels will reach 60,000 ppm within six hours, about the threshold of unconsciousness.

The Flowerpot Heater Myth—DF

The story goes like this: Place a flowerpot over a stove burner, and you have an effective, safe cabin heater for peanuts. Thermodynamics says otherwise, but I decided to test this myth anyway, because it would be great if it were true. Unfortunately, none of it is true, except for it being cheap.

Without regard to the efficacy of the flowerpot heater, using one can be dangerous. About 60 percent of glazed pots and 30 percent of unglazed pots I tested shattered violently at 400˚ F, throwing large, hot pieces of pot 2-5 feet. Only by limiting the temperature to 300˚ F (by keeping the flame quite low) was the shattering risk reduced to an acceptable nonviolent level. Considering that even Corningware is not stovetop safe, this should be obvious.

I used small (5- to 6-inch-diameter) and large (7- to 9-inch-diameter) clay flowerpots over a natural gas flame (bear in mind that propane is a little hotter, alcohol a little cooler). I measured pot temperatures and cooling rates, and I calculated radiant heat output of the naked flame and burner grate, and of the pot and burner grate. It’s important to note that when the pot is on the burner, any heat radiated by the naked flame, burner, and grate is blocked by the pot.

First, some basic physics. All heated materials absorb and then radiate heat. The amount they radiate is proportional to the fourth power of their temperature, as measured on an absolute scale, either Rankine or Kelvin. The hotter they are, the more they emit and the shorter the wavelength of the emissions.

Radiation is just one method of heat transfer; the others are conduction (the direct transfer of heat between solid objects in contact with one another, like how a hot pot heats the metal handle attached to it) and convection (the movement of heat energy within a gas or liquid, like how a heat source warms the air near it and that air begins to move and circulate). But it’s only radiant heat that is relevant to the question of whether the flowerpot heater offers a benefit. This is because for conductive heat to offer any benefit, you’d have to hold the pot. Convective heat isn’t very relevant either, because the balance of the heat in the flame would end up mixed in with the cabin air anyway.

A 7-inch flowerpot heated to 320˚ F emits about 150 watts (500 Btu) of thermal radiation. If the pot reaches 400˚ F, the amount of radiation emitted increases to about 370 watts, or about 1,100 Btu. In contrast, a naked propane flame is over 1,500˚ F and the burner grate will reach 400˚ to 800˚ F, depending on location. The radiation rate of the flame and grate alone is greater per unit area than that of the flowerpot, but the area of the flame and grate combo is much smaller. The result is that the pot offers little increase in the amount of heat radiated.

On the other hand, portable propane heaters, like the Mr. Heater line, heat a ceramic grid red hot (about 2-3 times hotter than the flowerpot on an absolute scale), and are thus 20-80 times more efficient at converting fuel energy into radiant heat. However, that does not mean they create more heat; the total Btu is fixed by the amount of fuel burned and cannot be increased.

It’s often said that the heated pot stores and releases heat over a longer period, thus keeping the cabin warm long after the stove is off. This sounds good but isn’t really accurate. First, a large pot will cool relatively quickly, smaller pots even faster. A 9-inch glazed flowerpot that starts at 300° F drops to 195° in five minutes, 130° in 10 minutes, and at a half an hour is at 85° F. The same pot starting at 450° F drops to 345° in five minutes, 280° in 10 minutes, and is at 110° in a half an hour. The hotter the pot, the faster the cooling.

Second, a large pot that weighs 3.2 pounds doesn’t store a lot of heat, a smaller pot even less. The specific heat of brick clay is .22 Btu/pound, and let’s say, for example, that a large pot cools from a high of 450˚ F to a low of 55˚ F overnight. The heat released by the pot is 278 Btu.

By comparison, let’s say the cabin sole, bulkheads, and furniture have all been heated to 70˚ F during a typical day, with the air temperature dropping quickly after sunset. The specific heat of pine (for example) is .66 Btu/pound. Assuming there are 500 pounds of furnishings, linings, flooring, and supplies in the cabin, with an average specific heat value equivalent to pine, the heat capacity of the cabin infrastructure is about 6,600 Btu. Additionally, the cabin furnishings will cool much more slowly, because at any given time, the temperature difference between the furnishings and the cabin air is very small. As noted above, hot objects cool far more rapidly than cooler ones. Thus, the clay pot represents only 4 percent of the heat holding capacity of the cabin as it cools during the evening (and this heat is given up within a few minutes). A rounding error at most.

Bottom Line: If it is merely cool, pull on a sweater. You can run the stove for a few minutes now and then, cooking a meal or making tea. This is less wasteful and just as effective as the flowerpot. If it is actually cold, install a proper heating system. The benefits of a flowerpot on the stove are at least an exaggeration, and more realistically, a dangerous myth.

About The Author

draws on his training as a chemical engineer and pastimes of climbing and sailing to solve boat problems. He cruises Chesapeake Bay and mid-Atlantic coast in his Corsair F-24 trimaran, Fast and Furry-ous, using its shoal draft to venture into less explored waters. He is most recently author of Rigging Modern Anchors.

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How To Heat A Sailboat

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

If you want to extend your boating season into the winter season, stay toasty warm, and dispel the dampness that can infiltrate your boat in cold weather, you need to get a reliable boat cabin heater.

Winter sailing is always a real challenge for most sailors given that the weather conditions are more adverse and calls for more preparedness. Fortunately, several types of boat cabin heaters can transform winter sailing into a more pleasant experience by keeping the interior of the sailboat warm and cozy. So if you do not want winter to spell the end of your sailing season, you’ve come to the right place: here’s how to heat a sailboat.

As we’ve noted, there are several ways to warm your cabin during the winter season or on a cold night. From hydronic systems, heating stoves, engine heaters, forced-air systems to reverse-cycle air condition systems and electric heaters, there are a lot of options for every budget. Although these systems may work differently, the basic idea is the same. They all either use fuel or another energy system to create heat that’s spread throughout the boat.

Let’s explore the most common ways to keep your sailboat warm during the cold season. But before going into that, let’s highlight some critical details.

Table of contents

How to Choose an Appropriate Boat Cabin Heater

The thermal outputs of these heating systems are generally measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). The more BTUs a system produces, the warmer it can make your boat cabin. You should, however, remember that more BTUs will increase your electrical or fuel demands. In addition to BTUs, choosing the right heating system for your boat will depend largely on how well your boat is insulated, the kind of boat you have, how much time you spend sailing in cold weather, where you’re planning to sail the boat, and how much you’re willing to spend.

A Word of Warning

The dangers of poorly installing a heating system on your boat can never be underrated. Keep in mind that most of these systems will keep your cabin warm by burning oxygen, which can potentially fill the cabin with the deadly carbon monoxide that can quickly leave victims unconscious and may lead to death. As such, safety should be a priority.

How to Heat a Sailboat

Hydronic systems.

These systems are based on the same principles as household hot water heating systems. It revolves around a heated fluid running through a tube to radiators or fan units that warm the air. These tubes should run throughout the sailboat but the fan units or radiators can be divided based on the number of zones that the boat has.

In most cases, a hydronic system is smaller than a water heater but can also be used as a portable water heater for the boat, especially if you need hot water onboard. It’s generally installed in the boat’s engine room and can use a coolant to disperse the heat. It can use the fuel coming from the vessel’s main fuel tank or a special fuel tank.

The main advantage of using a hydronic system is that there is no moisture in the boat as there are no cold spots. An appropriate hydronic system should have a maximum output of 25,000 BTUs per hour while using 6 amps of power or 0.22 gallons of fuel.

Heating Stoves

Although they’ve been used for centuries, heating stoves remain one of the most popular ways to heat a sailboat. They can burn kerosene, diesel, and propane or even use solid fuels such as charcoal or wood. Some heating stove systems use the direct draft system whereby fresh air is pumped through a fan while others use the natural draft system whereby air is naturally pumped through the combustion process.

Either way, a heating stove should be located in the saloon to radiate heat and circulate hot air. They should be equipped with a damper to help in controlling the airflow, as well as an exhaust pipe to withdraw the exhaust gases arising from the combustion.

Keep in mind that most heating stoves do not use electricity. Nonetheless, a heating stove with an output ranging between 7,000 and 9,700 BTUs should be ideal, especially if it consumes about one pound of propane in about 5.5 hours.

Engine Heat

This revolves around using the engine’s heated coolant fluid to transfer the warmth into your boat’s cabin. The coolant lines should be designed to run from the engine into the heat exchanger. There should also be a fan that blows the cabin air into the heat exchanger so that the air is heated. The hot air can then be piped out into the boat’s interior through several hoses.

Using this system is advantageous in the sense that it’s quiet and depends on the engine’s closed-circuit cooling system, so it doesn’t require radiators or additional water pipes. Unfortunately, this system only works when the engine is running and can be quite expensive in terms of the extra engine maintenance and the fuel consumed.

Forced-Air Systems

This is a simple method that revolves around a heater burning fuel to heat air. This hot air is then forced through ducts via a series of vents to the boat’s cabin. Forced-air heaters are typically situated in engine rooms and generally have exhaust pipes to discharge combusted fuel.

The system can be turned on either manually or through its thermostat so that air and fuel are drawn into the combustion chamber to ignite the fuel and air blend under a controlled flame. This heated air is then forced into the duct and spread throughout the boat’s cabin.

Electric Heaters

This can be a perfect option if you occasionally go out on the water during cold days. Electric heaters function much like normal home ACs and usually run on 12-volt power. They’re typically mounted inside the cabin and run on electricity generated from the boat’s batteries that heat the coils. A fan draws air over the coils where it’s heated before another fan blows it into the boat’s interior.

The main downside of this system is that it has to use electricity, which means that you cannot venture very far from the shores. This is because you’ll need to recharge the batteries now and then and this will run them down very quickly.

Reverse-Cycle Air-Conditioning Systems

This works in the same way as a normal household heat pump by running in the reverse cycle. They’re typically very expensive but can be a great way to extend your sailing in the winter, especially if you want to circumnavigate the globe.

Another good option of heating your sailboat is heading south to sunny places such as Florida during winter. In most cases, the south is a bit warmer than the north during winter and you can keep going until you find the hotter climes of the south.

Installing a heating system is a great way of making the cold nights and winter season more pleasant and attractive. There are, of course, several ways to ensure that your boat is heated and warm, especially if you do not want to put the boat into storage and get back to the normal life on dry land just because it’s winter!

So if you still want to make winter a perfect sailing season , keep your cabin cozy with the above-described heating systems.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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CB-1008 CUB Cubic Mini Wood Stove

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Easy to install and easy to operate!
Eco-friendly
Produces very little smoke due to its secondary combustion system!
Much safer than a diesel or propane cook stove!
Removes humidity from the cabin.
The rail is easily removable.
Measures only 11" (Wide) x 12" (High) x 10.5" (Depth) ( 27.94 cm x 30.48 cm x 26.67 cm ).
If you remove the rail, you have a cooking area of 5" ( 12.7 cm ) from the flue to the edge of the plate and 11" ( 27.94 cm ) side to side.
Well seasoned hardwood and pressed logs are the best fuels to burn.
Ideally the wood should be cut to 5 3/4" ( 14.60 cm ) long. It could be cut slightly longer. However 5 3/4" ( 14.60 cm ) allows for good airflow around the sides and it does not damage the insulation on the inside.
6000 BTU - 14, 000 BTU
1.75 - 4.1 KWh
Requires a horizontal clearance of 20" ( 50.8 cm ) in all directions without shielding and a vertical clearance of 30" ( 76.2 cm ).
Clearances reduced to 3" ( 7.62 cm ) when using proper mounting and shielding.
The stove needs a complete flue system comprising of 3"(7.62 cm) flue pipe, 5"(12.7 cm) insulated pipe and exit kit NOT INCLUDED
3/16" laser cut steel top plate.
1/8" laser cut steel body.
1/2" thick vermiculate firebrick insulation.
3/16" thick self cleaning robax glass.
Brass plated coil handles.

Customer Reviews

FAILURE TO READ AND FOLLOW WARNINGS MAY RESULT IN SEVERE INJURY, FIRE AND/OR POSSIBLY DEATH.

Never use liquid fuel or any other material containing fuel to start the fire Only use well seasoned hardwoods or pressed logs without wax or glue as a binder. Appropriate pressed logs should have a wood stove symbol on the packaging. Never use liquid fuels, pellets, or green wood.
Never operate your stove without carbon monoxide and smoke detectors
Never open a window, hatch or door downwind of the stove
Never use liquid fuel or any other material containing fuel to start the fire
Do not operate your stove when the stove door is open
Never leave your stove unattended when in use.
Inspect and clean your flue pipe regularly. (weekly, until you determine your own cleaning schedule.)
Keep fuel lamps, fuel containers, aerosol cans and any other combustibles at least 6 feet away from the stove
Never use oil when cooking on the top of the stove
Do not touch the surface of the stove when in use
Never leave children and pets unattended when stove is in use
Never use your stove in very rough seas
Do not dry wet clothes directly on the stove
Your appliance requires periodic maintenance and cleaning. Failure to maintain your appliance may lead to smoke spillage in your boat, cabin, or RV
Never clean stove when your stove is hot
Children and adults should be alerted to the hazards of high surface temperature and should stay away to avoid burns or clothing ignition
Due to high temperatures, the appliance should be located out of traffic and away from furniture and draperies
Even after the appliance is out, the stove and the glass will remain hot for an extended period of time
Under no circumstances should this appliance be modified
Do not operate the appliance with the glass door removed, cracked or broken
Do not strike or slam shut the appliance glass door
Always allow a small amount of air to enter cabin, open a window, hatch or vent up wind from the stove to replace air consumed by the stove
Nontoxic smoke will be emitted during the first hour of operation as the paint is curing. Open windows or hatches as required to vent cabin. Or you can cure the paint outdoors by attaching a couple sections of stove pipe to the stove and lighting it outside. To eliminate the odor can take up to 20 – 30 hours of burn time.
Never operate the stove without the baffles being installed correctly.

Inspection and Maintenance

1. Remove ashes from previous use

2. Inspect the flu pipe and clean if necessary

3. Inspect the window and verify that it is free from cracks and breaks

4. Inspect the door gasket and verify that it is properly secured and free of damage

5. Clean the window

6. Close the secondary air intake by pushing the control handle to its furthest rear position

7. Open the primary air intake to its maximum setting by sliding the control handle to its furthest right position

8. Place small timber, paper or cardboard and a log inside the stove and light the fire using a long neck lighter or matches

9. After a few minutes begin to open the secondary control

10. When the stove has reaches its optimum temperature, add larger pieces of wood and adjust the primary and secondary controls to the desired heat output

11. To extinguish the fire, simply close both the primary and secondary air intakes

Tips and tricks

1. To clean the window, use commercially available stove window cleaner or simply dip a damp cloth in the ashes and rub on window. A scraper can also be used but this will reduce the lifespan of the window.

2. To keep the window clean during use, pull the embers towards the front of the stove and place the new burning material towards the rear of the combustion chamber

3. To prevent excessive amber accumulation, allow embers to burn and reduce before adding more wood

4. When starting the fire with pressed logs, cut small 1 inch slices until optimum temperature is reached

5. Pressed logs expand as they burn. Avoid positioning them in a way that can put pressure on the window as they expand

6. The gasket surrounding the door will become very brittle over time. Avoid touching it when operating or cleaning your wood stove

7. In certain high wind conditions, a growling sound may be heard. This is normal and does not represent any danger. Adjust the primary air intake to reduce or eliminate the sound

Returns are only accepted within 30 days of receiving your order. Returned items must be unused, in its original packaging, and protective film must not be removed from the stainless steel products. If a used item is returned, a stove for example: A 160.00$ refurbishing fee must be deducted from the refund along with a 60.00$ restocking fee.

How many BTU’s does the Cub produce?

6000 to 14000BTU’s.

How big is the Cub?

Width: 11” Height: 12” Depth: 10.5”

How much square footage will the Cub heat?

100 -200 square feet.

How much does the Cub weigh?

27 LBS or 12.25 KG.

What size logs fit into the Cub?

5 ¾” long logs, and it can take up to three or four 2”x4” pieces.

What size is the glass?

6 1/4" x 4 3/4" x 3/16" thick.

What size is the flue collar?

Outside diameter: 3”

Inside diameter: 2 7/8”

Thickness: 1/16”

What are the stoves made of?

They are constructed from laser cut steel plate 1/8” to 3/16” thick! Vermiculate insulation, 3/16” thick self-cleaning Robax glass and quality hardware.

Are the stoves certified?

They are not. Please do your due diligence before placing an order. (Check your local law and regulations.

Is there a warranty on the stove?

Overall wear and tear are not covered. For example: scratches, rusting, baffles, insulation, glass etc.

ALL DAMAGE REQUIRES A PHOTO SENT TO [email protected] .

We offer a warranty on the glass for the first 90 days of use.

If the stove body gets structurally damaged (excludes glass, wear and tear, insulation, intake mesh etc) and you would like to repair it, we will do so free of charge. However shipping will not be covered.

We will gladly help you out.

Can you remove the rail on top of the stoves?

You can, simply align the tabs under the top plate with the holes in the top plate with pliers and it will slide out with ease.

What kind of wood is best to use?

The best wood to burn is well seasoned hard woods. This will help you achieve the best heat output along with the longest clean burn. You can also use pressed wood logs. We do not recommend pellets.

What are the two screws inside the firebox for?

They hold the baffles in place by putting pressure on the top plate. The baffles allow the secondary combustion system to work efficiently.

How does the secondary combustion system work?

Simply put, it pulls air from underneath the stove and introduced in the fire box at the top. The hot air mixes with the smoke and ignites the gases which are created by the burning wood. This produces heat with energy, which would otherwise have been lost up in the flue pipe providing better efficiency.

How much clearance is needed between the stove and combustibles?

Clearances required are 20” in all directions lateral to the stove unless installed with one of our wall mounts. If no shielding is present then you need to provide 20” clearance to combustibles. A 30” Clearances applies to the top of the stove to the surface above. Under the stove should also be shielded and an air gap should be provided.

How long does it take to cure the paint and how do I do it?

Once this process is done the stove will not need to be cured again. The curing of the paint will require you to burn the stove at high heat for several hours. It can take 1-3 hours for the paint to stop smoking. It can then take 20-30 hours for the smell to stop being produced.

This can be done outdoors to prevent the space from being filled with smoke. You can bring the stove outdoors and attach 2-3 sections of pipe. Run it hot and this will evacuate the moisture out the paint. If no pipe is used, the stove will not get hot enough to adequately evacuate the moisture.

Where do the stoves draw their air from?

The air must be replaced since the stove is constantly consuming oxygen. The stove will draw air from the room. In most cases you can open a window or a hatch and that should be enough to replace the air. For spaces that do not have a window, or if you do not want to have a window open, you can use our wall mount with fresh air intake. This will bring air from outside to the area where the stove draws its air from.

Can I use it to cook?

Definitely. We have made many meals on our stoves. The Grizzly has a mini roaster which makes easy to cook virtually anything you want! We would suggest not to cook with oil or grease because it could be fire hazard.

How do I light the stove?

1. Set your intakes: Open the primary air intake found on the front (open when pushed to the right). Keep the secondary air intake closed (found under the stove, closed when pushed

2. Take some paper and place some in the firebox, take some kindling and place it on top of the paper.

3. Light the paper and keep the door open for about five minutes.

4. Once it gets going you can introduce your wood, close the door and let it go for another 20 minutes.

5. After the 20 minutes has elapsed you can then begin to open the secondary air intake activating the secondary combustion system and dampen down the primary as desired.

For more details see here.

How do I extinguish the stove?

You will close both air intakes on the stove by pushing the primary intake all the way to the left, and the secondary combustion slider all the way to the back.

The fire will begin to die out right away, it will take some time for all embers to be fully extinguished. Do NOT leave a lit stove unattended.

How do I maintain a clear window?

The glass that the stove comes with is a self-cleaning glass made for wood stoves. Once the stove reaches temperature, the glass will begin to clear. To maintain a cleaner window, you can pull the coals forward, and then place the new wood towards the back. The quality of the wood will also have an impact and the cooler the stove is run, the darker the glass will be.

How do I clean a dirty window?

When the glass is cold you can mix a bit of ash with some water and rub it in circular motions.

How often do I need to replace the insulation?

The life span of the insulation will vary. It will last longer if the wood is not cut too large which will prevent chipping it. Also placing the wood as opposed to throwing the wood inside will also keep the insulation from deteriorating quickly. Replacement kits are available on our site for each stove.

24 LBS or 11 KG

How many BTU’s does the Grizzly produce?

8000 to 18000 BTU’s.

How big is the Cubic Grizzly?

Width: 13” Height: 15” Depth: 12”

How much square footage does the Grizzly heat?

200 -400 square feet.

PLEASE NOTE : The square footage mentioned are for spaces with low ceilings. Example; if you have a space that is 180 square feet with high ceilings it’s best to go with the Grizzly to compensate for the extra space needed to be heated.

How heavy is the Grizzly?

39 LBS or 17.7 KG

What size logs fit into the Grizzly?

6 ¾” long logs and it can take up to four or five 2”x4” pieces

Open the primary air intake found on the front (open when pushed to the right). Keep the secondary air intake closed (found under the stove, closed when pushed forward).

Take some paper and place some in the firebox, take some kindling and place it on top of the paper. Light the paper and keep the door open for about five minutes.

Once it gets going you can introduce your hard wood, close the door and let it go for another 20 minutes. After the 20 minutes has elapsed you can then begin to open the secondary air intake activating the secondary combustion system. You can also dampen down the primary as desired.

How to shut the stove off?

Push the primary intake all the way to the left, and the secondary combustion slider all the way to the back.

You will need to close both air intakes on the stove and the fire will begin to die out right away, it will take some time for all embers to be fully extinguished.

How to keep a clean glass?

The stove glass is a self-cleaning glass made for wood stoves. Once the stove reaches temperature, the glass begin to clear. To maintain a cleaner window, you can pull the coals forward, and then place the new wood towards the back.

How much flue pipe do I need?

The top of the flue pipe must surpass your roof line by one foot to ensure proper draft and safety.

We recommend a minimum of 40” of straight pipe.

What is the diameter of the flue pipe?

Our stoves take a 3" double wall flue pipe.

How do I connect the flue pipes together?

You will begin by taking the pipe having the flow arrow facing up. Take the second section of pipe and have the inner wall that is crimped and have the edge hit the inside edge of the pipe below.

Do this at an angle with the seams aligned.

As you push down and twist, bring the pipe up to vertical. You can then push down as far as it will go.

Place a block of wood on the floor and a block on top of the flue, and tap with a hammer until the pipe above comes onto the bump on the pipe bellow.

Do this for all sections until your flue pipe is complete then the entire length can be installed onto the stove.

Fix the pipes together with a screw at each seam

How do I clean the pipe?

You can see how to clean the pipe here

Can I exit out of a wall?

We do not suggest to do so. This is for several reasons:

You will have two elbows creating turbulence slowing the draft.

The slower draft will create more creosote buildup.

You will have more of your flue pipe outside which will cool the pipe quicker and this will also

Reduce the draft, and create more creosote.

For these reasons we do not have elbows for our pipe, nor do we know any that will work with our pipe.

A straight run up and out the roof is the best practice for a properly functioning stove.

How do I exit the pipe?

You can see all the items required to exit the pipe here

Instruction on how to do so is found here

Does the wall mount come with the mounting bracket and all necessary hardware?

Yes it does, it comes with everything needed; the mounting bracket, screws, bushing, and washers.

When do I need to use the wall mount with fresh air intake?

Normally the air is replaced by opening a window slightly.

The wall mount with fresh air intake will bring air from outside to the area where the stove draws its air from and this would be used in spaces that do not have a window to open or in spaces where you did want to open a window. It will bring the replacement through a 2” flex hose you would connect to the manifold found under the wall mount.

How much does it cost for shipping?

The shipping cost varies depending on what you order and how far it needs to travel to reach your location. To get a shipping quote we suggest you add the products you would like to purchase, input your information and it will give you an exact price with taxes and shipping included.

How long does it take to receive my Cubic once purchased?

Once the order is placed it will take 1-3 business days to ship.

After the order leaves our facility, it will take 4-7 business days to arrive for Canadian orders.

U.S and international orders will take 1-3 business days to arrive once shipped. Once it ships, it is up to the shipping company to ship it on time.

Do I need to pay tax?

For Canadian orders, tax is collected at the time of purchase.

For U.S clients there is no tax.

For international clients, tax will be paid upon arrival of the item - if applicable.

How is it shipped?

In Canada it will be Canada post who does the delivery.

For U.S and international orders, it will be DHL who will do the delivery.

What if the items arrive damaged?

If the items arrive damaged. Please take a photo and send it to us at [email protected] . We will assess the best course of action.

What if I need to return or exchange an item?

For returns, please refer to our return policy.

If you need to exchange an item that you have already received in exchange for another (ex. wall mount to floor mount), please send us an e-mail.

General Information

How draft is produced & how to reduce it.

Draft is generated in the flue pipe. When you first light a fire in the stove, the heat warms up the flue and air climbs upward, creating a convection effect. This upward pull of air is what creates the draw of air into the fire box allowing the stove to function. The flue pipe being the “engine” of the stove is why a double wall flue pipe is required.

The double wall constructions maintains flue gas temperatures which greatly improves the draft and pipe cleanliness. There are many factors when it comes to draft creation such as; the temperature of the flue, the length of the flue system, weather conditions, and the space where the stove is installed among other factors.

Draft is reduced dramatically when any bends are introduced.

This is why we do not recommend to introduce any elbows in the flue system.

Draft can also be reduced if you do not run the flue pipe past the highest point of the roof, due to a lack of moving air over the cap. This is crucial for optimal stove performance and safety.

Types Of Flue Pipe

There are three main types of flue pipes: Single Wall, Double Wall and Insulated. We suggest to only use our 3" double wall flue pipe in conjunction with our insulated pipe to prevent the cooling of the gasses and for optimal draft.

Our stoves require a 3” double wall flue pipe.

A single wall flue pipe should never be used on our stoves.

A double wall flue pipe will maintain the temperature of the flue gases as hot as possible, to allow for proper draft and to have the least amount of creosote buildup.

The pipe should be insulated as it goes through the ceiling roof and all the way to the cap. This can be achieved with our insulated pipes.

What Is Creosote? + Cleaning Process

Creosote is created by the process of burning wood.

The buildup of creosote inside the flue pipe and the cap will happen over time. Whenever flue gases come in

contact with a cold surface, (either the pipe or the cap), the creosote will condensate and stick to that surface.

This is why you must check the flue pipe regularly to determine the rate at which this process happens so you can create a cleaning schedule in accordance with your setup.

It is recommended to clean every week or so, until a schedule has been created.

The rate of this process is dependent on many factors; quality of wood, the type of flue pipe you use, temperature of the stove and flue pipe, as well as how you set the settings on the stove.

As mentioned above, keeping the flue gases hot will keep the build up to a minimum and using a double wall flue pipe while insulating the section of flue pipe on the exterior of the space - will help keep the flue cleaner for a longer period.

See cleaning instructions here

Exiting through a wall

Our stove and flue pipe are quite small. Any elbow you introduce creates turbulence, restricting the draft which reduces the performance of the stove. When you exit out a wall you would introduce two elbows. One to go out, and one to go up. Also since you exit at a lower point in the space.

You have more flue pipe outside than if you exited out the roof. This would require you to insulate a much larger portion of your flue pipe. This is a more expensive set up, it requires more work, and you will end up with a lesser performing stove. For these reasons it is not suggest to exit through a wall.

How to maintain a clear window

This is dependent on a few factors that are important to keep in mind if your goal is to maintain a cleanliness of the stove.

Firstly, the amount of heat in the fire box. Secondly, if you are burning dirty or humid wood and also the amount of wood you put into the stove.

These are all contributing factors to consider. If you add too much wood at once you will drop the temperature of the stove and the glass will darken.

Once it comes back up to temperature the glass will begin to clean it self. When reloading the firebox, pull the coals to the front (without blocking the air intake) and place the wood toward the back and this will allow the window to stay clearer for longer.

Also when you introduce a new piece of wood, it can take 5-10 minutes for the moisture/humidity, and oils to be released. During this time you will see a darkening of the glass due to the humidity being released and will clean it self once the wood has its moisture removed.

Our stoves are insulated, this reflects the heat back into the stove improving the functionality of the secondary combustion system. It also holds heat and radiates it over a longer period of time.

Secondary combustion

The secondary combustion works by pulling oxygen from the secondary air intake, mixing it with the gases produced by the burning wood and gets reignited. This allows the stove to use energy that would otherwise be lost.

This system works when the stove is up to temperature. You can control the secondary combustion by opening and closing the slider found on the underside of the stove. Pulling the lever forward towards you to open, push towards the stove to close.

Quotes and shipping

For a price or shipping quote, simply select the items you wish to purchase, input your information and it will give you an exact price with no obligation to buy!

Lighting the fire/extinguishing the fire

When starting a fire in a Cubic Mini Wood Stove it is made easy by placing 2 or 3 balls of crumpled up paper and a few small pieces of wood on top. Light the paper and the little pieces of wood will catch fire. Once that happens let it go for a few minutes to allow the pipe to heat and start creating draft.

You can then go ahead and introduce a piece of wood. It is suggested to leave the door open until the piece catches fire, then you can close the door. Once your fire is lit it is suggested to fully open the primary air vent to allow the flue pipe to heat up as much as possible.After 20 minutes or so you may reduce the primary air intake and open the secondary air intake to activate the secondary combustion system which will burn hotter and cleaner.

When you wish to put out the fire, simply close all air vents. You will see the flame die down immediately and in a little while the embers will die as well.

Complete and total combustion of fuels

With normal use of the stove, the ashes out is normally only needed every few days. To prevent the buildup of ash too quickly you must wait until the wood is almost completely consumed before adding more wood.

If you add wood prematurely ashes will build up quicker than they are supposed to.

Types of Fuel

With a Cubic Mini Wood Stove there are a few fuel types you may use; soft wood, hard wood, pressed logs, and coal. You can use soft wood to get the fire going. Once it is lit you can use hard wood. Pressed logs are a great choice as they are easy to cut to size, and they also burn very hot and clean.

You must read the package to see if it can be used in an air tight stove and that it is not made with glue. Coal is another choice and is similar to using wood.

Reason for Draft Issues

In most cases a lack of draft is caused by not maintaining flue gas temperatures, having an elbow or worst, to have two - or to have a large portion of non-insulated flue pipe outside.

If those are not the cause of the draft problem then it is most likely air coming and going from the wrong area. If you have a window open downwind and not upwind the air will come in down the pipe and want to exit through the window instead of coming in through the window and out the pipe.

This can be resolved by opening a different window or orienting either your boat or RV in the proper direction if possible. Another reason could be due to an obstacle near by the cap. If this is the cause, you would have to run the flue pipe up and above the obstacle allowing for free moving air to pass over the cap.

If your pipe is not maintaining its flue gas temperature, that can also cause problems. However, as mentioned above you can insulate it to combat that cooling effect.

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Out here on the 'Wet' Coast, specifically in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia, keeping the cabin of your boat warm and toasty makes for a better boating experience. A wood stove is a great solution, but marine wood stoves are costly. The smallest ones available are still too large for the sixteen-foot sailing barge I intend to build (my own design) shown below.

So as a warm up to building the boat itself, I decided to make the wood stove first. A pretty extensive search online yielded few results or examples of anyone making their own small solid fuel heater for a boat, so I decided that I would document the construction of mine for the sake of interest.

However, this is not a building plan or instructions to construct this stove. I assume no liability whatsoever for anyone copying this design, or even being remotely inspired to do something similar.

Having said that, here's how I went about making this stove: The main body of the stove is a piece of mild steel box section, 3/8 inch thickness and six inches by six inches by seven inches long. I was able to find it at a local machine shop in their scrap bin. The ends were already square and just need a little dressing with a file.

I chained drilled (more on that later) a round hole to accept a muffler fitting and finished the hole well enough to basically tap the fitting in tightly from the inside, and secured it with nail after drilling a hole to accept it. I made three feet with carriage bolts and black iron plumbing fittings. The stove will be bolted down so I figured three feet were enough, and with the single foot at the front, it will be easier to sweep and clean under the stove.

Next I made the back of the stove with a six inch by six inch piece of ¼ inch mild steel plate, and drilled and tapped to accept 10-32 machine screws to bolt it on. Before doing so, I smeared on copious amounts of stove cement to seal it.

I dressed everything up with a file after assembly.

The front was made much the same way, but I used countersunk 6-32 screws, and prior to installation I cut out the opening for the door.

The above photo shows how I cut the holes by chain drilling. The secret is to drill each hole slightly overlapping the last. If you drill too closely however, the drill point slides off into the previous hole. When this happened I flipped the piece over and came in from the other side. I used the lowest speed on the drill press and kept the belt loose enough that I could stop the chuck with my hand. This allowed me to drill without clamping thereby speeding up the process. If the bit grabbed, the drill would stall rather than spinning the piece like a whirling scimitar. There is no guarantee the belt on any drill press will slip when you want it to. So if you are going to do what I did at least wear heavy gloves and in any and every case, safety glasses. Like my Dad used to say, "do what I say, not what I do" so folks I'm making no recommendation here. My advice is, always clamp your work and keep your hands clear.

Once the piece was cut out, I put it in the vice and filed the edges to my scribed lines with a bastard.

Here you can see the draft control I made. The knob on the left is made of a piece of brass drilled and tapped to accept a 6-32 screw which is installed in a countersunk hole from the back of the piece so it can slide across the front easily. The right knob is drilled and tapped for a 10-32 screw that protrudes from the inside of the stove though a tapped hole. To adjust the draft I loosen the right knob and move the control to the desired position, and then tighten.

The most time consuming of the whole project was making the door. I wanted a window so I could see the cheery flame and avoid suicidal thoughts when it is raining. I was able to source a piece of stove glass quite cheaply from the local glass supplier - enough to make a few spares. The glass is very expensive otherwise - about $90 a square foot, but they had a scrap piece they couldn't use and let me have it for $10.

I made a frame from mild steel the same thickness as the glass, and sandwiched it between an inside frame, and the door itself (see test result at the end of the article). The door is larger than the stove opening by ½ inch all around. The glass frame, and rear frame are the same size as the stove opening. The openings in the door and the rear frame are slightly smaller (about 1/8 inch all around) than the glass itself. The rear frame is drilled and tapped to accept 6-32 screws, and the door and glass frame were drilled larger so the screw threads cleared. Before assembly I smeared it all up with stove cement.

If you are wondering what those three things are on the door they are clamps called clecoes. They are really handy for this sort of work.

Nothing dresses up a stove like this more than some brass trim. I found this brass fork at the local Salvation Army thrift store for two bucks. I sawed the end off and mounted like a grill over the window - kind of a Poseidon's trident. I figured it would make it a little more nautical.

The hinge is a plain old door hinge, cut and shaped. I shimmed it so that it would make the door fit nicely with the gasket thickness taken into account.

I used an anchor nut locked even tighter with a castle nut as a latch. A decorative brass handle made from another thrift store find is on the other end of the bolt. The gasket is glued on with a special wood stove gasket glue that is clear and looks like model cement. I painted the stove with flat black Tremclad high temperature paint.

The stove would not operate correctly the first time because I ran it without a chimney. Also, the heat from that first trial cracked the glass. When I dis-assembled the door I realized that the tight frame around the glass, along with it all being cemented together caused stresses resulting in the fracture.

I cut a new glass, but installed it without the middle frame, instead using gasket material around the glass. I did not use cement either. Before firing the stove I used a propane torch to heat the whole thing up and see if it would crack again and it did not.

I put on a piece of muffler pipe as a chimney and built a fire with some dry wood. Once the fire was going I threw in a dozen charcoal briquettes and closed the door. I left the draft control full open. The stove threw heat for a good six hours before I went to bed. I don't know how long it burned after that, but I'm very happy with the result. We should be very comfortable in our little boat.

Alan Jones swarfmakeratshawdotca

How to Heat a Sailboat: 6 Practical Options

For most sailors, boating season ends when the weather begins to get cold. It’s just too unbearable being out on the water with such a strong chill in the air. Or is it? If you could heat up your boat, you could extend the sailing season even longer, which would be delightful. How do you warm a sailboat?

We recommend the following 6 options for heating your sailboat:

Fully insulate you sailboat
Use a forced-air furnace
Try a reverse cycle air conditioner
Get some electric heaters
Rely on hydronic heat
Warm up with a heating stove

If you have yet to hear about some of these heating options, keep reading. In this article, we’ll discuss each heating method in-depth, including some practical tips you can use for safe, efficient heating aboard your sailboat!

Stay Warm on Your Sailboat with These 6 Methods

Southernly sailing.

This first option for keeping toasty aboard your sailboat doesn’t require any heating units. Instead, when you feel those wintry winds chill you to the bone, set course for the south. In the United States, southern states tend to stay pretty warm all year long, even when most of the rest of the country is suffering from bitterly cold winters.

You can reliably sail to Florida, California, or anywhere in the southern part of the country and feel instantly warmer. Try it for yourself!

If you don’t have the luxury to spend your winter in warmer locations then here are a few ways to stay warm during cold weather.

Fully insulate your sailboat

Insulating your boat will not only allow you to retain the heat in the cabin but it will also minimize the humidity levels and condensation in the cupboards. By insulating your boat you will have no condensation issue in your cupboards and cabinets besides the heat retention will greatly improve.

Having low humidity and condensation levels will make it a lot easier to heat up your boat. In addition to that carpeting your boat is also going to provide good insulation during the winter months. I would recommend laying out a carpet and a carpet underlay underneath the carpet to insulate your floor properly. This technique alone, will make a huge difference in the temperature of your cabin.

When selecting your underlay, make sure you select the one which has the highest insulating properties, generally the underlay that is designed for concrete or cement slabs provides the highest insulating properties and a good option to go for. Check out this useful video on how to insulate your boat:

Forced-Air Furnace

A forced-air furnace is another great option to consider. This heating system uses propane, oil, fuel, or gas as a main heat source. Return ducts allow the forced-air furnace to absorb outdoor air, warm it up, and then send it back to you so you can fight the cold.

All the excess exhaust should go off-deck if your furnace is ducted correctly. Using a forced-air furnace to its fullest extent will require the installation of ductwork in your sailboat. This can be costly, but if you plan on sailing in cooler weather in the years ahead, then it’s a worthwhile investment.

The main drawback with this system is finding a proper place (close enough to the cabin) to install the furnace. Forced air furnaces are by large installed in the stern locker, located 10-15 feet away from your cabin. Blowing the heat through the ducts this far will cause heat loss. To prevent the loss, you need to insulate your pipes using armaflex insulation material. Here are some advantages and disadvantages of forced air furnaces.

Instant Heat Available Through all cabin rooms
The Heating system is easily regulated
Solid solution for heat your boat
Even heat distributions via the vents
Dries air inside the cabin quickly
Can easily heat your lockers and the engine lockers
It is complex to install the wires and ducts and fuel supply
Ducting and isolating the ducts is hard job
These furnaces consumes a lot of electricity
Carbon build up inside the ducts can cause clogging the ducks in the long run.

Reverse Cycle Air Conditioner

Who says you have to retire your air conditioner when the summer ends? You can keep using it into the fall if yours has reverse cycling.

A reverse cycle air conditioner can both cool and heat an area, so it’s a great unit to have onboard your sailboat. The refrigeration cycle that normally provides cool air remains intact with a reverse cycle air conditioner, but, when you want warm air instead, that cycle goes backward.

Here’s how it works. The indoor evaporator coil takes on the role of a condenser coil to make heat. Outside of the unit, your second condenser unit also changes its act, becoming an evaporator now. This allows the second condenser to send cold air out and away from your sailboat rather than keep it in as it usually does.

Your reverse cycle air conditioner can also work as a dehumidifier and an air purifier, so it’s really like four things in one. Of course, for all that convenience, you will pay significantly more for a reverse cycle air conditioner than most of the other heating options we’ll discuss on this list.

Still, we’d say it’s seriously worth considering buying a reverse cycle air conditioner. You can have reliable cooling on those especially hot days, then sufficient warmth when you’re shivering, and all in one handy unit. Since you’ll want to save space and limit weight capacity on your sailboat, a reverse cycle air conditioner seems like an almost perfect solution.

Electric Heaters

A few electric heaters on your sailboat can also be a viable option for warding off the cold. Each heating unit within the heater takes electrical energy and transfers it into heat energy that you can feel. That heating unit is known as an electrical resistor.

The electrical resistor includes nichrome wiring to convert electricity into usable heat. Ceramic insulators will also boost the heat output, making electric heaters quite effective.

You have all sorts of options for electric heaters, many of which are suitable for sailboats. Let’s discuss these options in more detail now.

Heat pumps: A compressor within the heat pump uses electricity to kickstart the refrigeration cycle. During that refrigeration cycle, outdoor air passes through the heat pump, with the heat energy separated from the air. That heat then travels through your sailboat, warming it up. Heat pumps also have an evaporator that uses liquid. This liquid will begin boiling so it can be used as a source of heat, although the fluid does not boil at high pressure.
Storage heating: Storage heaters are common in the United Kingdom, but they’re used elsewhere in the world too. Clay bricks within the storage heater get warm and then send out the warm air when you need it most.
Fan heaters: A forced convection heater or fan heater includes an electric fan within, hence the name. This fan moves air faster to provide quick warmth. However, you must keep fan heaters away from other items, as they could ignite what’s nearby if it’s flammable.
Convection heaters: Thermal conductors within a convection heater will warm up the air when it cycles in. The buoyancy of hot air allows it to rise so cool air can enter the convection heater in greater quantities, being warmed up immediately. Some convection heaters use thermal fluid or oil. They’re less risky than fan heaters, as convection heaters are not as prone to ignition.
Infrared radiant heaters: An infrared radiant heater has elements within that reach high temperatures, releasing infrared radiation. This radiation goes through the heater, connecting with an absorbing surface and becoming heat. The heat is designed to hit items and people rather than the whole space itself, providing optimal warmth.

Hydronic Heat

We’re still not done discussing heating options for your sailboat yet. Hydronic heat is a type of heating system that’s especially known for its energy efficiency. The internal system has a tube that goes beneath the floor. Usually, this floor is that of a home, but your sailboat’s cabin areas are also applicable. The hydronic heating system then produces radiant heat from the floor up.

Within your hydronic heat system is hot liquid, typically water. The liquid moves through the heat system’s hoses via piping. All along, the very hot temperature of the liquid is maintained so its levels are near boiling. You can even use your sailboat thermostat to adjust the water temperature in your hydronic heating system through the plumbing manifold.

Depending on how you set your temperature, you can turn on certain zones of your sailboat so those are the only ones that are heated. You can also set different temperatures from one zone to another. If one part of your sailboat stays pretty comfortable, then maybe you set the heat lower than the driver’s seat near the windshield, as this area might get pretty cold.

The heating unit’s pumps will send in freshwater as needed to be boiled and transferred. As the water eventually cools down, it goes through the boiler again and is reused. That’s a big part of why hydronic heating systems are so efficient.

Heating Stove

Since you spend so much time on your sailboat, you might as well opt for a heating stove. Also known as a wood-burning stove or diesel drip stoves, not only can these stoves act as a source of warmth, but they can cook food as well.

A heating stove may rely on diesel fuel or sawdust bricks or other sources of biomass fuel from wood. The stove itself is made of steel, cast iron, or another form of sturdy, durable metal. Within the stove is a firebox with fire bricks around it. Air controls make the heating stove safe to use, as does a ventilating stove pipe that you’d angle offboard, as the combustible gases combine here, which would be dangerous to be around.

When you light the heating stove, the gases move to the chimney. For the combustion gases to exit the fire chamber through the chimney, your flue gas temperature must surpass the outdoor air temperature. That’s not too hard in the fall! Here are some pros and cons of heating stove:

It has Simple design
Requires minimum installation
Provides Cosy home feeling
It dries the boat well
Has a Cooktop
It can be used as a source for radiator
water pipes
Learning curve
Produces soot
Chimney installation can be challenging
Takes longer to get the cabin warm

When choosing heating stove for your boat make sure you have a quality carbon-monoxide detector installed and make sure you change the batteries every 6-9 months.

Can You Use Engine Heat to Warm Your Sailboat?

Some sailors also recommend gathering by the engine to take in the heat that’s generated around here. Since your boat engine has coolant fluid that’s warmed up as the engine runs, this warm fluid could send heat towards the cabin.

This doesn’t make for the most viable heating solution unless you have a heat exchanger, coolant lines, and a fan. The coolant lines should go from your engine to your heat exchanger, which takes the air and warms it up. The fan then sends the cool air towards the cabin. Hoses can push out the warm air to you.

If you like to take your sailboat out somewhere, turn it off, and just sit on the quiet water, engine heat for warmth won’t work. You’re only getting heat when the boat runs. Also, you’re using a lot of fuel for this heating method and potentially putting undue strain on the engine.

So yes, while you can use your engine as a source of heat, it’s not an option we’d highly recommend.

Conclusion

Has the weather taken a turn for the colder? Don’t retire your sailboat quite yet! With heating stoves, hydronic heat, electric heaters, a forced-air furnace, reverse cycle air conditioning, or even engine heat in rare instances, you can sail well into the colder months while staying nice and warm.

I am the owner of sailoradvice. I live in Birmingham, UK and love to sail with my wife and three boys throughout the year.

Newport Solid Fuel Heater

The Newport Solid Fuel Heater is a small stainless steel solid fuel heater designed for casual use. This heater burns one to two 1” thick wood or presto log, a handful of charcoal briquettes or coal. Removable ash drawer and damper control.

Compact and Efficient: The Newport Solid Fuel Heater is a small, stainless steel heater designed for casual use. It burns one to two 1” thick wood or presto logs, a handful of charcoal briquettes, or coal.
Easy Installation and Operation:
Requires 3” diameter chimney parts.
Minimum 4ft or maximum 8ft of chimney is required; a 6ft straight run with no elbows works best.
For chimneys 6ft or longer, a barometric damper is highly recommended.
Permanent fresh air vent needed in the unit's area.
Moisture Control:
Creates a dry heat to reduce moisture inside the vessel.
Convenient Features:
Equipped with a removable ash drawer for easy cleaning.
Includes a damper control for heat adjustment.
Specifications:
Width: 7.88″
Height: 14.7″
Weight: 15 lbs
Heat Output (approx):
Low: 3000 BTU
High: 8000 BTU

The Newport Solid Fuel Heater offers a convenient and efficient way to provide heat in casual settings. With its compact size and easy-to-use features, it's a practical choice for your heating needs.

Solid Fuel Heater Installation & Operating Manual

Solid fuel information sheet.

Please expect up to 5 business days for processing and shipping.

Shipping rate calculated at check out.

Grilling in the Wind

Featuring handy knobs and rollaway hood - our Sea-B-Que will keep you grilling on the windiest days.

Home Comforts

Sturdy, reliable, and sure to bring a comfortable feeling to your small spaces.

From Our Customers

★★★★★ We installed a Mediterranean oven in 2009 and it has also been problem free. Their customer service is top notch.1 Tara Google Review

★★★★★ The solid fuel stove has kept me warm in the winter for years, and kept the boat dry. S Waddington Google Review

★★★★★ Six stars if I could! Extremely helpful, truly experts in their field. It was a pleasure to deal with the Dickinson Stove company. Robert Google Review

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COMMENTS

Wood Stove Heating For Sailboats
#1 · Apr 2, 2020 Within the first 5 minutes of this video, there are several ideas that might be helpful to heat a sailboat for cool or cold weather. The rest of the video tells how to install a wood stove, similar, possibly, to what the good Captain Slocum might have used. At the end of the video, Rebecca explains why the decision to go wood.
Wood Stoves for Boats
The Dwarf 3kW. Our smallest stove, the Dwarf 3kW, is a great option for smaller boats and milder climates where less heat is required. The compact size is perfect for fitting in tight spaces. The tall firebox, airtight controls, and secondary burn technology give the Dwarf 3kW stove the longest burn time in the 3kW size.
Small, Efficient, Modern Wood Burning Stoves
Mini wood stove designed to heat boats, cabins and RV's up to 40' long. Produces 6000 to 14000 BTU's! Measures only 11 x 12 x 10.5! Eco-friendly Much safer than a diesel or propane heater Durable! Constructed from laser cut steel plate 1/8 to 3/16 thick! Easy to install and easy to operate! 3-inch flu pipe diameter
The Little Cod Wood Stove from Navigator Stove Works USA
Width: 18 inches (45.75 cm) Depth: 13.75 inches (35 cm) Weight: 55 pounds (25 kg) Efficiency: 74% Construction: Cast iron Fuel Type: Solid fuel Glass Window: Frontside glass window option available Sea Rail: Stainless steel "Sea Rail" standard with stove (to keep cook pots in place); brass upgrade optional
Navigator Wood Stoves Provide Classic Heating and Cooking Onboard
1 Tucked into a wooded hillside in the San Juan Islands of Washington state, Navigator Stove Works is a young family operation attached to a long history of vintage stoves. Formally of Brooklyn, N.Y., and now based on Orcas Island, Navigator produces three compact wood-burning, cast-iron stove models for use on land and at sea.
The Little Cod Boat Wood Stove
The Little Cod Boat Wood Stove. By Steve | October 3, 2008. The season is turning, that's obvious. We're pinned down in Deer Harbor with a frontal system coming through… 30-40 knots tomorrow, a brief respite on Sunday, another blast on Monday. We parked here to rendezvous with Andrew of Navigator Stove Works and get the black-enameled ...
Boats
Most folks installing a wood stove in an boat are going to be limited on space. Therefor, building a wall mounted heat shield tends to make the most sense. This will allow you to reduce clearance requirements for the stove and single wall pipe down to only 6" from any part of the stove or pipe to nearby combustible materials protected by the ...
Heating Our Sailboat: Diesel, Electricity or Wood, and What Kind?
Heaters on boats potentially use many different fuel sources from electricity, to diesel, to wood, to numerous other fossil fuels. Each has its positives and negatives. We have lived on three different sailboats and between them we used eight different sources of heat- three space heaters (two boat certified, one not), three different diesel ...
Creative Cubic Mini Wood Stove Installation on sailboat ...
9.1K 197K views 4 years ago ...more ...more How to order New Sails — Sailing Uma [Step 177] Sailing Uma Frozen Orchids won't keep you warm! One step closer to being ready for the cold was to...
Hot Stuff
F ew sailboats have a dedicated heating system for warming the cabin, something built-in and properly vented. This makes sense because a cabin heater with a flue can be a complicated, bulky, and expensive affair, and something that's perhaps used only on occasion.
How To Heat A Sailboat
Daniel Wade June 15, 2022 If you want to extend your boating season into the winter season, stay toasty warm, and dispel the dampness that can infiltrate your boat in cold weather, you need to get a reliable boat cabin heater.
CB-1008 CUB Cubic Mini Wood Stove
Mini wood stove designed to heat boats, cabins and RV's up to 40' long. Durable! Constructed from laser cut steel plate 1/8 to 3/16 thick! Produces 6000 to 14000 BTU's! ... The Cub Wood Stove is Cubic Mini's first wood burning stove. It's birth was inspired by one too many cold, damp nights in a boat. Our Cubic Mini creator built this stove ...
Duckworks
Homemade Wood Stove For a Small Boat. 6 inches wide by 6 inches high (excluding feet) by 8 inches deep. Out here on the 'Wet' Coast, specifically in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia, keeping the cabin of your boat warm and toasty makes for a better boating experience. A wood stove is a great solution, but marine wood stoves are costly.
How to Heat a Sailboat: 6 Practical Options
Sail south. Fully insulate you sailboat. Use a forced-air furnace. Try a reverse cycle air conditioner. Get some electric heaters. Rely on hydronic heat. Warm up with a heating stove. If you have yet to hear about some of these heating options, keep reading. In this article, we'll discuss each heating method in-depth, including some practical ...
Wood stove on a sailboat?
Properly done, any combustion stove can be safely installed in a boat.I live aboard and heated with wood for 2 years. PO also heated with wood a couple years. The big issue for me is hauling and storing enough wood. Also, it seems it's either too hot or too cold in the boat.It took about 6 arm loads of wood per 24 hour day to heat in cold weather. 2 cords a month in really cold weather.
Halibut Wood Burning Cookstove For Boats: Wood Burning And Coal
Oven Size: 9 x 9 x 8 inches. Firebox Size: 11 x 5 x 6 inches. Weight: 175 pounds. Construction: Heavy cast iron, with cast bronze sea rail corner posts and 1/2″ brass rails. Fuel Type: Solid fuel, with 3/8″ cast iron firebox linings for coal use, shaker grate, and stainless steel ash pan. Chimney Requirements: Uses a 4-inch chimney pipe.
Newport Solid Fuel Heater
Compact and Efficient: The Newport Solid Fuel Heater is a small, stainless steel heater designed for casual use. It burns one to two 1" thick wood or presto logs, a handful of charcoal briquettes, or coal. Requires 3" diameter chimney parts. Minimum 4ft or maximum 8ft of chimney is required; a 6ft straight run with no elbows works best.
Dickinson Marine Newport Solid Fuel Heater
PRODUCT #. AVAILABILITY. 864814. 00-NEWSF. In Stock: Leaves Warehouse: Same Day. The Newport Solid Fuel Heater is a small stainless steel solid fuel heater designed for casual use ideal for boats 20-25ft. This heater burns one to two 1" thick wood or presto log, a handful of charcoal briquettes or coal. Removable ash drawer and damper.
Need Info on Cole Wood Heater
Aug 17, 2005. 97. - - Halifax, Nova Scotia. Mar 23, 2007. #1. New boat officially changing hands next week, comes with a Cole wood burning heater (see photo). Looks like it is well installed, although the current owner has not used it in the six years he has owned it. My first sail (bringing her home) will be in early May along the north ...
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