rc yacht rigging

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Rig building

RC Sailboat Rigging Setup- Briefed in 17 Easy Steps

Table of Contents

Introduction

To build a model sailboat, you’ll need a lot of time, patience, and talent. Remote control sailboat beginners should start by altering or fixing a pre-existing model. It is possible to create a quicker and more sophisticated sailboat by rigging an existing model.

What to do for the rc sailboat rigging setup ?

Tether the retaining bolt and wire mainsail luff. Insert the mast stub and slide the entire main boom assembly. Push the masthead and backstay crane. Adjust the sail to match the mast reinforcement ring. Attach the eye in the mainsail clew. Close the hooks. Set the backstay’s length to the right.

To get the overall understanding, read the entire article.

Things to Bring

• Stitching Device
• Sailboat Controlled via Remote
• Thread Made From Polyester
• Fisherman’s Spectra Line
• Dacron Sails
• Utility knife

Procedure for Rigging

Use these rigging guidelines to their full extent. This ensures that the boat will sail with the qualities and performance that its creators intended. You can also check the RC dirt oval setup guide to ease your work.

Step 1: Replace Old Sails

Remove and replace the old sails. Cut out the new main and headsails from Dacron. Measure the old ones from the model and add a half-inch on each side to the new measurements. Tether the retaining bolt.

Step 2: Wire Mainsail with Eyelets

All six eyelets on the mainsail luff should have wired mainsail luff rings attached to them. 

Step 3: Place the Mast Stab

Be careful not to get the plastic collar’s bevelled edge. Insert the mast stub into the bottom of the mast.

Step 4: Slide Main Boom

From the bottom, slide the entire main boom assembly onto the mast stub.

Step 5: Slide Rings Under the Mast

Starting at the luff of the mainsail, slide all rings beneath the mast one at a time.

Step 6: Assemble Plug

Push the masthead and backstay crane. Assemble the plug into the mast. Cut a 250mm Dyneema length and tie the mainsail’s head to the backstay crane. 

Step 7: Layout the Sail

Adjust the sail to match the mast reinforcement ring at its highest point. The sail’s head may readily swivel. Poles are sheeted out at an angle of 80 degrees when the boat’s sailing with the breeze.

Step 8: Attach the Cunningham

Attach the Cunningham (downhaul) as demonstrated by cutting a 300mm length of Dyneema. Tie a cord to the eye in the gooseneck fitting’s uppermost eye. 

Step 9: Tie Bowsie’s Eye

Follow this path: First, tie one end to a Bowsie’s eye. Then, tie a second Bowsie’s eye; finally, tie a third Bowsie’s eye.

Step 10: Attach the Mainsail Clew

Attach the eye in the mainsail clew (bottom right corner) to the mainsail clew using a line.

Step 11: Close the Hook

Close the hook’s open end with thin-nosed pliers. Keep your sail from falling off while you’re out on the water.

Step 12: Replace the Sail If Needed

If you need to replace the sail, simply use a flat-bladed screwdriver to pry it open once again.

Step 13: Cut Dyneema

For the Backstay, cut a 900mm length of Dyneema. The Backstay Crane’s end hole has a loop where you can tie a piece of string. 

It’s time to attach one of our 6mm stainless steel rings to its bottom end. Using a Mast Socket, insert the mast and the rigged Mainsail into the hull.

Step 14: Attach the Loop

Once you’ve cut a 500mm piece of Dyneema, tie a loop in one end. Weave the other end through the first small gaps in a Bowsie. Then throw the rim at the bottom of the Backstay. 

Finish it back at the Bowsie. Using a metal hook in the Transom (rear edge of the hull), attach the loop to the backstay. Then put the Bowsie nearly halfway along the bottom rope and secure it.

Step 15: Tighten the Leech

To allow the leech (back edge) of the main to twist a little, lightly tighten the compression strut. Such that the leech (back edge) is under mild tension. Adjust the Cunnigham such that the luff of the sail is just slightly strained.

Step 16: Adjust the Position of the Rings

Set the backstay’s length to the right. A spacing of roughly 25 millimetres between the boom tube’s centre. Achieve the sail foot midway by adjusting the position of the silicon rings (SR5) and the mainsail clew hook.

Step 17: Connect the Foresail

Use the spectra fishing line to loop between the grommet and the eyebolt. Connect the foresail to the top of the mast before the mainsail. 

To make use of the foresail, equip the boat’s bow with a second, shorter boom. Connect the sail’s grommets to the short boom’s front and back eye bolts with spectra lines.

You can check these suggested rigging tools. You need these tools for rigging setup-

Apply a few drops of thin CA adhesive into the Dyneema cord at the point of the cut. Then cut through it at an angle. The cut end will be firm and pointed, making it simple to weave through the Bowsies.

A dollop of thin CA adhesive applied to the knot can help keep it in place. Once you’ve tied it, trim any extra rope. 

Don’t use hot gun glue as it doesn’t stick to this type of surface. If you take the time to secure all knots now, you’ll have a long-term reliable vessel.

Tips for Better Setup

A Dacron sleeve should be added where the lines come into contact with the hulls or plastic parts. Because Spectra is extremely powerful and can shred into the material.

Ask sailmakers for scraps or old, ripped sails that you may use to build the remote control boat sails. Only if they are willing to part with them.

There are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to rigging more sophisticated rigs. Like double mast designs or using spinnakers until you’ve gained some experience in the activity. Always clean your RC boat as you clean your RC car to avoid rusting. 

How tight should the rigging on a sailboat be?

If you push or tug on them, they shouldn’t wiggle about too much. So make sure they’re snug. Tighten them up if they’re still slack or floppy.There is no need to tighten any of the other shrouds after the cap shrouds are in place. Because they follow in consecutive order.

What’s the simplest way to sail a boat?

The Lateen Rig is a great starting sailboat. It only requires 2 ropes in its basic form.The Lateen Rig is one of the most basic sailing rigs. A  spar, boom, and mast are all part of this rig. As are a single jib sheet and mainsheet.

How much does it take to replace a sailboat’s rigging?

Re-rigging a sailboat can cost anything from $1,000 to $5,000. Re-rigging a 40-foot boat with wire is estimated to cost roughly $100 per foot. Which includes the round-trip costs of hauling, launching, and unstepping the rig (about $2,500).

Final Words

We’ve discussed here in detail on the rc sailboat rigging setup. This should help with the rigging setup, and we sincerely hope it does.

OK, so the above may look a little daunting. You’ll be able to recall this procedure with ease after completing it five or six times. Be familiar with and comfortable with your tools, settings, and methods.

The very best to you!

Travis Murray

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Occasional ruminations, experimentations, and observations on the art and nonsense of building wooden radio control sailboats. Thanks for visiting!

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Rigging tips for building a model ship.

• Updated on: 25th January 2021
• Written by Gary Renshaw

Introduction

Rigging is a significant part of the process of building a model ship. It can be tedious and time-consuming however putting the effort in adds to the beauty of your finished model.

In general, the instructions on rigging provided by the manufacturers of model ship kits are fairly sparse. Whilst there are several specialised and very detailed books on masting and rigging, they are more concerned with matters of historical and technical accuracy than with the sort of advice that might help the beginner to understand the best way of going about what might appear to be quite a daunting task.

Highly recommended is a 3 DVD set available from Modellers Shipyard on  Masting and Rigging . This is a comprehensive set which shows all aspects of preparing the masts, spars and yards and the rigging for a period model. For further information call our office or visit our website.

We do strongly recommend “Ship Modelling Simplified” by Mastini – it contains excellent advice on ship modelling in general and has a good section on rigging. Modeller’s Shipyard has produced the following information as an introduction to the Rigging of a model ship. The following points should be noted:

• This is a general guide only and is to be used in conjunction with any instructions and plans provided by the kit manufacturer. In particular, it must be emphasised that any illustrations used in this leaflet are purely for the purpose of example and may not relate to your specific model.
• The approaches described are not the only way of doing things and the order in which the various processes are carried out may be varied, within reason, to suit the individual modeller.

Building a model ship is as much an exercise in using the mind as it is in using your fingers and hands. In this small leaflet, we can’t hope to cover all the problems and queries that may be encountered in the construction of your model. It is necessary to spend as much time thinking about the task at hand as actually doing it. If having thought about it, you still have a problem then contact us. We’ll either be able to advise you ourselves or refer you another modeller in your area who’ll be happy to help you with “hands-on” assistance.

TYPES OF RIGGING

The rigging of a ship can be divided into two main parts:

•  “Standing” or “Fixed” rigging, which is used to support the Masts and Bowsprit.
•  “Running” rigging, which is used to manipulate spars and sails.

On an “actual” ship any Rigging which didn’t pass through a pulley block was coated with tar to help prevent it rotting. For this reason, standing rigging is often, although not always, black on ship models.

If you do want your standing rigging black, and black cord is not supplied in the kit then you can consider these options:

• You can purchase Black cord. 
• The use of black rigging “wax” gives a very authentic tarred look but it is difficult to do well.
• The cord supplied with the kit can be coloured using black dye or “Raven Oil” as used by leatherworkers/saddlers.
• Black felt-tipped “Texta” is an easy way to colour the cord.
• Black “Padawax” shoe colour is also very satisfactory.

When any liquid dye has been used it will be necessary to stretch the cord by hanging it on a clothesline, with weights, to prevent it going slack after installation on the model. It will also probably be necessary to use clear wax to eliminate any furry look in the cord.

STANDING RIGGING

This includes the rigging of the Stays, Backstay, Bowsprit and Gammoning. This is fairly straightforward and should present few difficulties. Work from the centre of the ship out and try to avoid difficult and confined spaces. A Rigging Tool presented in the Tools section of our Catalogue will be helpful when rigging. The various names for the standing rigging are presented below.

• Fore topmast stay
• Fore topgallant stay
• Flying-jib stay
• Fore royal stay
• Fore skysail stay 
• Main topmast stay
• Main topgallant stay
• Main royal stay
• Main skysail stay
•  Mizzen stay
• Mizzen topmast stay
• Mizzen topgallant stay
• Mizzen royal stay
•  Mizzen skysail stay
• Mizzen topmast backstay
• Mizzen royal backstay
• Mizzen skysail backstay
• Main topmast backstay
• Main topgallant backstay 
• Main royal backstay
• Main skysail backstay
• Fore topmast backstay
• Fore topgallant backstay
• Fore royal backstay
• Fore skysail backstay
• Bowsprit shrouds (bobstays)

Source:  “Ship Modeling Simplified” by Mastini Pages 143 –144

FITTING OF BLOCKS, EYE PINS & CLEATS

Before proceeding further fit all the eye pins and rigging blocks to the bowsprit, masts, yards, and deck – also to the insides of the bulwarks if required. Cleats may be required on the lower masts, deck or bulwarks. Pay particular attention to any area which will be relatively inaccessible once the shrouds and other standing rigging ropes are in place.

It is as well to drill out the holes in the blocks and deadeyes to facilitate the threading of the rigging cord when the time comes. 

For the most inaccessible blocks, insert a short piece of thin rigging cord through the hole and glue it to itself forming a loop. Later, when you wish to insert the permanent running rigging you cut the loop, glue the new cord to one end and pull it through the hole using the other end of the pilot cord. No awkward threading

DEADEYES (LOWER) AND CHAIN STRAPS/ DEADEYE STRAPS

In most models, the lower deadeyes are fitted into “deadeye loops” which are inserted into gaps in the outer edge of the “Channel”. Once the complete row of deadeyes are installed a capping strip is fixed along the front.

From the bottom of the deadeye loop either a straight ”Deadeye Strap” or a  “Chain Strap” goes to the side of the hull at a lower level. The style of this fitting will depend on the period to which the particular ship belongs and also the price/ quality of the ship being built.

There are several points to keep in mind when setting up these “deadeye assemblies”

The deadeye strap (or chain strap) is rarely, if ever, perpendicular. Rather, it should be at an angle which is an extension of the angle of the shroud which will eventually be attached to the deadeye above it. The diagram on the left of this page should make that mouthful clearer!!

 The lower deadeyes, the ones being attached at present, should be placed so that the three holes are positioned with the lowest one being the centre of the three. When at a later stage the upper deadeye is fitted, it is equally important that the centre hole is the highest of the three. Refer to the diagram on the right-hand side of this page.

These together with the “forestays” and “backstays” are the ropes that support the masts. Shrouds, which are the group of ropes to which the ratlines are attached, are made up in pairs with a deadeye at each end of a single rope.

First cut a piece of cord to an appropriate length and with the help of an alligator clip or a small clamp glue one end around a deadeye. This deadeye should then be temporarily connected to the front portside (left hand) lower deadeye using a wire jig. This jig will provide the correct spacing between the upper and the lower deadeye.

The loose end of the rope then goes up, around the mast and down to the position of the lower deadeye immediately behind the first. Using glue, alligator clip and another wire spacer, the upper deadeye is attached to the shroud.  At a latter stage, the double thickness of cord immediately above the upper deadeye will be bound with fine thread as shown as shown in some of our diagrams. The “Lanyards”, made of the thinnest rigging cord, are then installed as shown in the adjoining drawing. Because on the “real thing” the lanyards were constantly used to take up tension on the shrouds they were never tarred and should not be black.

Once the first pair of shrouds has been completed, the exercise is repeated on the other (starboard) side, then, back to the port side and so on.

If, when the others have been done there remains a single lower deadeye on each side then the final pair of shrouds goes from one side of the ship to the other with a large seized eye around the masthead. In all of this, it is important to ensure that the deadeyes are in straight rows parallel with the channels and with each other.

SEQUENCE OF SHROUDS

The forestays should now be fitted paying attention to the particular fittings used.  Quite commonly  “heart deadeyes” and lanyards will be used for tensioning purposes.

These are always rigged with a large seized eye around the masthead as with the “odd”  shrouds (if any). As with the shrouds they are rigged with deadeyes and lanyards but the upper deadeye will normally be at a higher level than that of the shroud deadeyes.  

The colour of the ratline cord is grey or fawn. The tying of ratlines can be fairly tedious but it is worth going to some trouble to ensure that it is done well.  Among the points to keep in mind are:

• They should not be too tight otherwise they will pull the shrouds together.
• They should be parallel to the waterline.
• On the “real thing” the spacing between each row was about 400mm  so, on a model at a scale of say 1:50, the gap would be approximately 10mm.
• Avoid tying knots tightly until all the ratlines are in place. This will allow some “fine tuning” before placing a tiny dab of glue on each knot. Placing a sheet of white plain paper behind the shrouds will assist with gaining contrast to make the tying of the ratlines a tad easier on the eyes.

ATTACHING RIGGING LINE TO BELAYING PINS

The adjacent diagram demonstrates clearly the method best used to attach the cord to the belaying pins.

If you have any difficulties determining which belaying pin a rope is intended to go to, a good rule of thumb is that the higher up the mast it starts then the further back it finishes.

ROPE COILS 

Plenty of rope coils draped over the belaying pins provide a finishing touch. These can be made from odd lengths of offcuts. If placed into the shapes you require they can be (fixed) permanently by using hair lacquer or nail polish.

WHAT SIZE ROPE TO USE

In the plans or in the instructions there should be a key or description of the size of cord to be used for various purposes. In the unlikely event that no indication is given, then the following can serve as a guide: 

Forestays & Anchor ropes – Heavy cord  

Shrouds & Backstays  – Medium cord  

Ratlines & Running Rigging – Lightest cord

RUNNING RIGGING

Once the standing rigging has been completed you can now start the Running Rigging. You will have enlarged the holes in the blocks which are already in place. Do the same with all other blocks as you come to use them.

When threading cord through blocks, you will find that a needle threader (available from sewing shops) will be very handy. Also, a smear of super glue on the end of the cord can stiffen it and make it easier to thread. Work from the centre of the ship out and try to avoid locking yourself into difficult positions. A Rigging Tool presented in the Tools section of our Catalogue will be helpful when rigging.

The various names for the Running Rigging are presented below.

• Fore brace   
• Fore lower topsail brace
• Fore upper topsail brace
• Fore lower topgallant brace
• Fore upper topgallant brace
• Fore royal brace
• Fore skysail brace
• Fore yard lift
• Fore topsail yard lift
• Fore topgallant yard lift
• Fore royal yard lift
• Fore skysail yard lift
• Main lower topsail brace
• Main upper topsail brace
• Main lower topgallant brace
• Main upper topgallant brace
• Main royal brace
• Main skysail brace 
• Main yard lift
• Main topmast yard lift
• Main topgallant yard lift
• Main royal yard lift
• Main skysail yard lift
• Mizzen yard brace
• Mizzen lower topsail brace
• Mizzen upper topsail brace
• Mizzen lower topgallant brace
• Mizzen upper topgallant brace
• Mizzen royal yard brace
• Mizzen skysail yard brace
• Mizzen topmast yard brace
• Mizzen topgallant yard lift
• Mizzen royal yard lift
• Mizzen skysail yard lift

Source:  “Ship Modeling Simplified” by Mastini Pages 145 –146

TYPICAL RUNNING RIGGING APPLICATIONS

NAMES OF MASTS & SPARS

• Fore lower mast
• Fore topmast
• Fore topgallant mast
• Fore royal and fore skysail mast
• Main lower mast
• Main topmast
• Main topgallant mast
• Main royal & main topgallant mast
• Mizzen lower mast
• Mizzen topmast
• Mizzen topgallant mast
• Mizzen royal & mizzen skysail mast
• Fore topsail yard
• Fore upper topsail yard
• Fore lower topgallant yard
• Fore upper topgallant yard
• Fore royal yard
• Fore skysail yard
• Main lower topsail yard
• Main upper topsail yard
• Main lower topgallant yard
• Main topgallant yard
• Main royal yard
• Main skysail yard
• Crossjack yard
• Mizzen lower topsail yard
• Mizzen upper topsail yard
• Mizzen lower topgallant yard
• Mizzen upper topgallant yard
• Mizzen royal yard
• Mizzen skysail yard
• Gaffsail boom
• Flying-jibboom
• Martingale boom, dolphin striker

Source:  “Ship Modeling Simplified” by Mastini Pages 142 –143

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• Bluenose Canadian Schooner

Rigging Begins

June 23, 2017

Fact check…I’m not great at rigging.  Rigging is a pretty specific skill, unique to model ship building, and this is only my second build.  On my Phantom build , I kinda rushed through rigging and just tied a bunch of knots.  I’m determined to do better this time.

The Plan for Rigging

In looking at other build logs, it seems that many modelers prefer to prepare as much rigging as possible before the masts are mounted on the ship.  This has some pros and cons…

• You can move the mast around to get a better angle to work.
• You don’t have to reach around existing rigging lines to attach things.
• You will likely use more rigging line, since you can’t precisely size each line.  You have to leave extra length on each run to ensure it is long enough.
• You have a mess of rigging lines that you need to keep organized.
• You have to do a bunch of work before you see any results.

On my Phantom build, I did all the rigging in place, after the masts were installed.  This time, I’m going to pre-rig what I can.

The general plan:

• Attach all the blocks, shackles, etc. to the masts, booms, and gaffs.
• Attach as many of the rigging lines as possible to the masts, booms, and gaffs.
• Leave each line with extra length, and coil the lines up.
• Tag each line with a sticker noting which line it is.
• Mount the masts.
• Run the shrouds and attach them to the deadeyes on the hull.
• Run the remaining standing rigging.

Over the last few months, I’ve spent a lot of time reviewing the plans and attempting to identify each rigging line.  There are some details that are not very clear on the plans, so I’ve had to research a few items.  I’m sure that I’ve got some things wrong, but I think my rigging notes are good enough to get me started.

In preparation, I’ve made the following documents:

• A diagram of all the rigging, prepared in Adobe Photoshop, that shows each rigging line using a color-coded line.  The different types of lines are on different layers, allowing me to turn them on and off to isolate lines by type.
• Diagrams of each line, showing how each line is attached, including what kind of splice, seizing, hook, shackle, etc. is used, as well as any blocks.
• A spreadsheet of all the lines, indicating the starting point, ending point, color, line size on the model, and where it is shown on the plans.

The spreadsheet assigns a unique number to each line so I can keep track of things as I’m working.  I’ve identified 89 different lines.

Types of Rigging Lines

There are two main ‘categories’ of rigging: standing and running.  I’ve never been on a boat, much less a sailing ship, so my knowledge is limited to what I’ve learned over the last couple of years.

From what I’ve seen,  standing rigging includes all the lines that hold the masts up.  These are typically fairly heavy, and are relatively ‘fixed’.  (They can be adjusted through lanyards and such, but they typically do not involve blocks or pulleys.).  Running rigging includes all the lines that hold up the sails and adjust how the sails are angled against the wind.

Standing Rigging

On model ships, standing rigging is often done with black rigging line.

The  shrouds are rigging lines that hold the masts up by their sides.  There are normally several shrouds for each mast.  The Bluenose has 4 shrouds for the each lower mast , on each side, for a total of 16.  It also has a shroud running down from the top mast , adding another 4.  These 20 shrouds are run down to the main rail, where they are secured to the deadeyes on the chain plates .

Finally, there are two top mast shrouds on the main mast, that run from the top of top mast to the trestle tree .

Stays  hold the masts on the fore and aft sides.  There are a number of different stays on the Bluenose.  A few run between the main and fore masts, while several others run down to the deck or bowsprit .

Running Rigging

Most (all?) of the running rigging on a model ship is done with tan rigging line.

The term  halliard comes from ‘haul yard’, and refers to lines that raise things.  The halliards tend to be some of the more complex rigging lines.  They typically have a number of blocks, and often weave back and forth.

The  lifts hold tings up, like booms.  The Bluenose has lifts for the main boom, the fore boom, and the jumbo jib boom.  A couple short  spreader lifts hold up the spreaders on the fore mast.

The term  tackle seems to refer more the actual pieces that form the pulleys.  However, there are a few lines on the Bluenose that the plans refer to as  tackles , so I’m using that term here.

The Bluenose has a tackle on the bottom of the main boom and fore boom.  It also has tackles for lifting the dories on both the port and starboard sides.

The  sheets are lines that control the corner of a sail.  They can keep tension, as well as control the movement of the sail.  Many of these seem to be capable of running on either the port or starboard side.

The  tacks are fairly simply lines that hold down the bottom corner of sails.

The  downhauls  run from the top of the sail down, and are used to pull the sail down when it is being stowed.

Miscellaneous Rigging

These might better fit under one of the other categories, but I’m separating them out into a  miscellaneous category because they a little different than the other lines.

Ratlines and Footropes

Ratlines are ropes that form ‘ladders’ on the shrouds.  These can be used to climb up to the upper portions of the masts.

Footropes are lines that are secured to things like the main boom and the bowsprit (not shown) where they extend outside the ship.  Sailors could stand on the footropes when they need to get out to these areas.

Flag Halliards

The  flag halliards are technically halliards (they lift something), but they are just used for flags so they tend to be pretty light/simple.  The Bluenose has three – one on the main mast, one on the fore mast, and one on the main gaff.

I didn’t bother to draw up the  clews , but these are noted on the plans so I’m including them here.  The clew lines seem to run along the edges of sails, and are used to pull up the corners of the sails.

There is a LOT of discussion online about what size rigging line should be used for the various lines.  Hardcore modelers use all kinds of resources to determine the precise size of rope that would have been used.  I’m not that fancy.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides rigging line in a few different sizes: 0.008″ (very thin, like thread), 0.021″ (medium weight), and 0.028″ (thicker).  These don’t match what’s indicated on the plans.  The plans show a variety of thicknesses, like .006″, .012″, and more.

To make things a little more complicated, I’m replacing all the rigging line in the kit with line from Syren Ship Model Company .  The kit line is fine, but Syren’s is way better.  The sizes are not always exactly the same, so I went with what was close.  The 0.008″ kit line was replaced with 0.008″ Syren line.  The 0.021″ kit line was replaced with 0.018″ Syren Line.  The 0.028″ kit line was replaced with 0.025″ Syren Line.

I decided to use these lines as follows:

Blocks, Hooks, Shackles and Splices

Knowing where lines go and what size they should be isn’t enough.  The details matter.  Each line has its own unique usage of blocks, hooks, shackles, splices, etc.  Adding all these details accurately makes all the difference in the look of the model.

I’ll just touch on the basics here, and go into more detail about how I’m implementing each piece as I get further into rigging.

There are a number of pieces of hardware that go into the rigging.  All these little bits and pieces have specific purposes.  Some are supplied by the kit, while others have to be made from scratch.

Blocks are pulleys.  (Some hardcore ship guys would probably cringe at that statement, but that is the simplest, easiest explanation).

Rigging lines are run through blocks to make things easier to pull and lift.

On a model ship, the blocks are not actually functional.  They don’t have the little wheels.  Instead, they are just small wooden pieces with holes drilled through for the lines.  Depending on the ship, a kit might have many different sizes and types of blocks.

On the Bluenose, we have single, double, and triple blocks.  A single block has one set of holes, representing one ‘wheel’ in the pulley.  A double block as two sets, and a triple block has three sets.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides blocks in a number of different sizes.  I’m only using the triple blocks.  All the others have been replaced by block from Syren Model Ship Company .  Syren’s blocks are much higher quality.

Blocks can be attached in a number of different ways.  I spent a lot of time going over the plans to determine how each block should be attached.  Typically, a hook or loop is attached to the block, which is then attached to a mast/boom/gaff, or to another rigging line.  I identified several different configurations:

• A block with a single hook attached.
• A block with a single loop attached.
• A block with a loop on both the top and bottom.
• A block with a hook on one end and a loop on the other.

Seizing a block and setting up the hook or loop is a skill that requires a lot of practice.  Many modelers have come up with creative jigs and techniques for this.

Several places in the rigging call for  hooks .  These are fairly simple metal pieces with a ring on one side, and hook on the other.  I make mine by bending brass wire.

Shackles are a little more complex.  A shackle allows a line to be secured in place, but removed at any time by removing the shackle’s bolt.  There are a number of ways to make them.  I’ve made some for the bowsprit , and my technique is covered there.

Deadeyes are typically round pieces that are used to secure the shrouds.  I installed some of these when I put the chain plates on .  Working on the deadeyes is one of my least favorite parts of rigging.

Deadeyes come in pairs, and each pair is held together by a lanyard.  This allows the lines to be adjusted to achieve the right tension.  Getting them all straight, tight, and even is a pain.

Securing the Lines

To secure the lines to all this hardware, a few different techniques are used.  On my first build, I simply tied knots for everything.  This time, I’m trying to do things better.   My usage of these techniques will not be accurate .   In many cases, I’m going to use simple versions of splices and seizings.

Eye Splices

I’ve written about eye splices before.  An eye splice is a loop in the end of the line, created by splicing the line back onto itself.  Eye splices are  much   easier to do before the line is attached (in any way) to the ship.  Try to do all your eye splices in advance.

Some places call for eye splices that have to be done in place on the ship.  In these cases, I’ll be ‘faking it’, but simply seizing the line to itself, wrapping it with thread, and hoping nobody notices.

Seized Loops

A seized loop is common on a model ship.  The end result is similar to an eye splice in that it creates a loop, but this technique allows you to tighten the line in place.  The line is looped around whatever it is being attached to, pulled tight, then tied to itself with thread.

Lanyards are used in a few places there things need to be pulled tight, but remain adjustable.  There are two main types of lanyards on the Bluenose.

The lanyards for the deadeyes are done in the traditional method.  There are many diagrams on how to do this.  The lanyard is run through the holes in the upper and lower deadeye, they tied off on the shroud.

In other places, like the spreader lifts, lanyards are used to pull the lines tight.  For these, I’ll tie the lanyard to the line, then loop it through whatever it is being attached to several times (eye bolt, bail, etc.).  Once I’ve got a few loops, I’ll tie it off again.

So, What Next?

Now that I have a plan for the rigging, it is time to get everything I can installed on the masts.  The goal is to get everything as complete as it can be before installing the masts.

Unfortunately, it is really hard to document and illustrate this as I go.  Also, it would be a little confusing for someone jumping in later looking for assistance with a particular line (they’d see one end of it installed now, and the other end installed much later).

So, to make it easier I’m not going to document the rigging prep I’m doing on the masts.  Instead, I’ll jump forward to once the masts are mounted, and fully document each line as I finish it.

Prepping all the rigging on the masts went fairly quickly, taking about a week.  Once the prep work was done, all the lines were labeled (I printed some labels).  Then I installed the masts.

Serious modelers will tell you not to glue your masts in – the rigging should hold it up if you do it right.  The advantage of that is that if you need to remove the masts in the future (repairing damage several years from now), you can.

I’m not good enough at rigging to pull that off, so I glued my masts in place.

Rigging lines and hardware installed on the masts.  Each line is coiled and labeled.

The coiled and labeled rigging lines look like a mess, but they are actually pretty well organized.  Each line is identified by the number from my spreadsheet as well as its name.

Messy, but still organized.

Now all I have to do is finish attaching all this stuff.

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Mastering RC Model Yachting: Tips and Techniques

• By - Kyle Hilson
• Posted on November 14, 2023 November 15, 2023
• Posted in RC Boats

RC model yachts are miniature versions of actual yachts that are built to be controlled remotely. They are often used by hobbyists who enjoy building, racing, or sailing these models as a pastime activity. RC model yachts are available in different types, including sailing yachts, racing yachts, and scale models, each with their unique features and characteristics. Building an rc model yacht can be a fun and challenging experience, requiring specific tools and materials. Once built, a model yacht can be sailed on water surfaces, using techniques and maneuvers required for different scenarios, such as racing or leisure sailing. In this article, we will explore the different aspects of rc model yachts, from building and sailing to racing and maintenance, and provide tips and tricks for each area.

Types of RC Model Yachts and How To Build Them

• Some types of RC model yachts are:
• Sailing yachts: designed to mimic real sailing yachts and controlled using a remote control from ashore.
• Racing yachts: specifically designed for racing and may have different features than other types of RC model yachts.
• Scale models: scale replicas of real yachts and can be of different sizes depending on the scale model created.
• Hobbyists choose to build RC model yachts for different reasons, such as:
• Learning skills, such as model building , painting, and use of power tools.
• Customizing models to their preferences and styles.
• Having full control over the model yacht’s design and components such as the sails and rigging.
• Tools required for building an RC model yacht include:
• A hobby knife or scissors for cutting parts and sails.
• A spray adhesive for adhering sails to the model yacht.
• A sanding tool for smoothing out rough edges on model yacht parts.
• Websites such as Amazon, eBay , and RC Planet offer different types of RC model yachts, parts, and kits for sale.

What are some tools required for building an RC model yacht?

Tools required for building an RC model yacht include a hobby knife, sandpaper, pliers, scissors, a power drill, and a soldering iron.

Building an RC Model Yacht: Tips, Materials, and Tools

• Building an RC model yacht from scratch requires:
• A plan or blueprint for creating the RC model yacht
• The required tools and materials
• Knowledge and some level of expertise in model building
• Tips and tricks for building an RC model yacht include:
• Start with a simpler model kit before tackling a more complex one
• Follow the model kit instructions carefully and thoroughly
• Take your time and be patient, as building an RC model yacht can be time-consuming
• Use quality materials and tools to ensure a successful build
• An example of a simple plan to build an RC model yacht is listed below:
• Websites such as HobbyKing offer various RC model yacht kits, parts, and tools to build RC model yachts as a hobby.

What websites offer RC model yacht kits, parts, and tools for hobbyists?

There are several websites that offer RC model yacht kits, parts, and tools for hobbyists including Tower Hobbies, HobbyKing, and Model Yacht Fittings.

Tips for Sailing an RC Model Yacht

• Sailing an RC model yacht requires:
• Basic knowledge of sailing fundamentals such as tacking and gybing
• Understanding how to control the yacht using a transmitter
• Installing the sails and rigging on the yacht correctly
• A calm and flat body of water to sail on
• Tips and tricks for sailing an RC model yacht include:
• Familiarize yourself with your yacht and its behavior in the water
• Practice sailing on calm days to gain confidence and experience
• Always be aware of obstacles and other boats on the water
• Adjust the sails to suit the wind conditions
• Websites such as RCGroups offer forums and discussions on sailing techniques, tips, and product reviews for RC model yacht enthusiasts .
• Learning to sail an RC model yacht is a great way to improve your real-life sailing skills and can be a fun and rewarding hobby.

What websites offer forums and discussions for RC model yacht enthusiasts?

Websites such as Model Yacht Club, RC Groups, RC Universe, and Sailboat RC offer forums and discussions for RC model yacht enthusiasts.

Techniques and strategies for improving your skills in RC model yacht racing

• RC model yacht racing is a popular aspect of the hobby and involves:
• Racing against other RC model yacht enthusiasts
• Abiding by specific rules and regulations set by RC sailing clubs or organizations
• Competing in various races such as short-course , long-distance , and offshore races
• Training and practice are essential in RC model yacht racing, and there are various techniques and strategies that can be followed to improve your skills.
• Online retailers such as HobbyKing and Tower Hobbies sell a range of products for RC model yacht racing, including specially designed racing yachts and equipment .
• RC model yacht racing events can be found worldwide, and enthusiasts can participate in local, national, and international races .
• RC model yacht racing is a thrilling and competitive aspect of the hobby and offers a sense of camaraderie and sportsmanship with other enthusiasts.

What are some techniques and strategies for improving RC model yacht racing skills?

Some techniques and strategies for improving RC model yacht racing skills include practicing on a consistent basis, analyzing and adjusting sailing techniques, studying wind and water conditions, maintaining and upgrading equipment, and seeking advice and guidance from experienced sailors.

Necessary maintenance for optimal RC model yacht operation

• Maintenance is an essential aspect of keeping RC model yachts operating efficiently and effectively, and it involves:
• Regular checks and service of the yacht, battery, rigging, and sails
• Proper storage to protect the yacht from damage or weathering
• Cleaning of the yacht’s hull and equipment using appropriate cleaners and methods
• Replacement of any worn-out or damaged parts to ensure the yacht operates at optimal levels
• There are many online resources available that provide tips and tricks for maintaining an RC model yacht, including:
• Blogs and forums such as RCGroups and RC Universe , which provide hobbyists with a platform to share ideas, ask questions, and offer advice
• Online videos, tutorials, and manuals that provide detailed instructions on how to maintain different types of RC model yachts
• Online retailers such as Amazon and eBay that sell a range of RC model yacht maintenance products such as cleaners, oils, and spare parts
• Maintaining an RC model yacht properly not only increases its lifespan but also ensures that it operates efficiently and effectively, providing hobbyists with enjoyable and hassle-free RC sailing experiences.

What resources are available online for maintaining RC model yachts?

There are various resources available online for maintaining RC model yachts, including forums and websites dedicated to RC sailing, instructional videos, online manuals and articles on maintenance and repair.

In conclusion, RC model yachting is an exciting and engaging hobby that provides enthusiasts with the chance to explore the art of sailing in miniature form. Building, sailing, racing, and maintaining an RC model yacht can be a fulfilling and immersive experience that brings joy and satisfaction to hobbyists. With an array of RC model yachts available, including scale models, racing yachts, and sailing yachts, hobbyists can choose the ideal yacht based on their preferences and skill level. Moreover, the availability of online resources, including forums, retailers, and instructions, can assist hobbyists in their journey towards becoming skilled and experienced RC model yacht sailors. Whether you choose to sail solo or compete with other enthusiasts, RC model yachting is guaranteed to provide hours of fun and thrilling experiences. So why not try it out and dive into the world of RC model yachting today!

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Home >> Model Boat Fittings >> Rigging Blocks

Rigging Blocks for Scale Models

Essential rigging pieces to fit out a sailing boat, the blocks exist in a wide range of sizes. More or less sophisticated, with a variable number of sheaves, they are adapted to the different functions associated with the  ropes on the ship. Single or turning blocks, are made of three major elements: 2 cheeks (or flanks) which enclose the block, one or several sheaves.

Manufactured with modern materials, this blocks are maintenance-free, unlike the wooden blocks that fitted the old sailing ships.

New CAP Maquettes manufactures several functional and realistic rigging blocks to fit out your models of sailing yachts. 

Available in diameters of 5, 8, 10 and 15mm, the New CAP Maquettes blocks are made of stainless steel or brass, with nylon or metal sheaves, with or without ball bearing, with swivel or shackle, in single, double or triple version sheaves, with or without a becket or a fiddle.   

They are ideally suited to move your  sailing ships .

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• Masting, rigging and sails

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Pond Yacht rigging

By JerseyCity Frankie May 3, 2015 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Jerseycity frankie.

Im sifting the internet looking for information about pre-radio control Pond yacht rigging. Working rigging for sailing scale models.

Before radio control, as I am sure all of you know, pond yachts reached a high degree of sophistication. Self tacking steering gear controlled by wind vanes, with a lot of complex brass hardware with elastic bands and adjustable sliders, were visible on deck and could be set by the user on shore to match the prevailing wind conditions and desired point of sail.

My problem is in finding authoritative information on these mechanisms. Nearly ALL of the images I find of historic Pond Yachts, those not in actual contemporary photos, are of models that have been restored and have had their steering gear simplified, presumably by antique dealers with little working sail understanding. In most of these cases its very obvious that brass fittings remaining on deck are not rigged in a way that would have an actual effect, they have merely been mocked up to look like they function and are often left unconnected to the sails.

Have any of you R.C. guys come across books or websites that deal with this aspect f the hobby? I hope there is a repository of this knowledge somewhere, it would be a shame to lose it.

• markjay , Omega1234 , Landlocked123 and 3 others

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Blue Jacket Ship Crafters, in their book department sells two books on pond models. Both books are by M. de Lesseps. They are Pond Models  and Pond Yachts How To Build And Sail Them.  These books may have the information you're looking for.

Yowch $57 on Amazon!  But I see only $21 at Blue Jacket. Thanks for the tip!

I wrote to the Central Park Yacht Club and they put me in touch with a gentleman with experience with the subject. I was touched by his generosity when he wrote back and sent along annotations on the photo I had sent him.

He explains that:

......... sheet-to-tiller rig:  there were *two* mainsheets, one used on  going to windward  and the other on the run. Both typically had hooks on the end so they could be switched.

Sailing upwind, the boat sailed on balance only, tiller centered by the elastic as shown in the picture. The beating sheet ran from the end of the boom and was hooked on the ring on the main horse. Running sheet hung loose. On the run, the running sheet would be hooked to the tiller as shown, and run out so the main boom was swung out to one side or the other. The beating sheet would hang loose. The principle is that if the boom were swung to starboard, the boat would tend to turn to port. The pressure of the wind would pull on the main sheet against the elastic and give opposite helm to the rudder , thus guiding the boat. The jib would have a single sheet, adjusted with a tensioning device,  let out for the run and pulled in for the beat.  

• IgorSky , Landlocked123 , Omega1234 and 2 others
• 2 weeks later...

Found this on Google books and it is relevant:   https://books.google.com/books?id=_jYCAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA103&dq=Pond+Models+%C2%A0and+Pond+Yachts&hl=en&sa=X&ei=8NtZVbWuHq7IsQTHgYHADg&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=Pond%20Models%20%C2%A0and%20Pond%20Yachts&f=false

• 1 month later...

Try this web site from the UK: www.vmyg.uk. Its called the Vintage Model YachtGroup, its web site has a link to a

instruction book for various self steering mechanisms and how they work. 

Looked interesting.

Bridgman Bob

Thanks for the link to the website! I thought I had seen them all by now but this was a new one to me. Here are some shots of the model I am restoring, one of two. THis example was likely not actually sailed. It has a lead keel but there is no rudder head, the rudder moves but does not pierce the deck.

The second model, not pictured, has rudimentary self steering gear and I will put up some photos of that later as I finish work on her.

I finished the restoration work I was doing on these two Pond Yacht Models. I have a new appreciation for this type of model and plan on building one of my own now. Here are some before and after photos. ANd then just some details shots.

• mtaylor , Omega1234 and markjay
• 7 months later...

However, did you notice that shipping at Blue Jacket starts at $50.00?  

Huh?    http://www.bluejacketinc.com/ordering.htm

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

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The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging

Related articles, superyacht directory.

Do you know your Bermudan rig from your DynaRig or wingsails? And which is best? BOAT explains it all...

Take a look at a modern racing yacht from above, beating to windward and heeled to the breeze, and you can see at a glance why Bermudan rigs have stood the test of time. With its fore and aft sails bladed into efficient aerodynamic shapes, a modern yacht can slice close to the wind and be driven hard. Such a sight would have been outlandish a century ago. Then, a typical trading barquentine could set 18 sails to catch light airs, but it needed a large crew to battle with canvas far out on the yards. In a modern miracle as incredible in its way as flight, today’s racing yachts can sail faster than the speed of the wind – in some cases several times faster.

A mainsail set on a single spar is an age-old concept but only in the 19th century was it adapted as the Bermudan or Marconi rig. A one-piece mainsail set on a mast without a gaff, hoisted with one halyard and controlled by one sheet, was simpler and more efficient. This revolution became the power train of pleasure yachting and racing.

But perhaps the time is coming for a re-evaluation of simpler rigs requiring fewer crew – alternatives with lower loads operated by automated systems. In an era of reduced carbon consumption, could more radical sailplans even herald a revival in sail power?

The evergreen Bermudan rig

The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising and regatta racing alike. At larger sizes, however, things start to become trickier, and the trade-offs get interesting.

Over the last decade, sail handling technology has steadily advanced to allow sloop rigs to grow larger and larger. “But with that comes a highly loaded rig, many tonnes of compression from tension in the rigging, and you have to build structure in the boat to accept that,” explains Paul MacDonald, founder and superyacht sales manager of Southern Spars.

“You have to have a lot of deck gear and captive winches below decks and the machinery for that. But over the years, boom furling systems and MPS [Multi Purpose Sails for downwind angles] stored on a drum, for example, have made sail handling safer.

Bill Tripp is the designer behind the 86-metre Aquijo , which broke new ground in 2015 as the world’s largest Bermudan ketch. Tripp prefers to call the rig a "sketch", a portmanteau word for a rig that is neither a sloop nor a ketch “because the main and mizzen are identical”. Even though the sailplan is divided over two masts, each spar is still a towering 90 metres above the water. Aquijo perfectly illustrates the issues involved with a Bermudan rig when scaled up.

“The sloop is great but I prefer the ‘sketch’ for sailing around the world under full control due to the desirability of a two-masted rig for reaching ability, which dominates passages, and the safety of controllable loads when sailing in all kinds of conditions miles from nowhere,” he says.

Upwind, Aquijo sets a jib, staysail, mainsail and mizzen, all in North Sails 3Di, totalling 3,821 square metres. A furling Code sail for reaching and downwind angles increases that to a vast 5,051 square metres.

While Aquijo has a crew retinue of 17, it can be controlled under sail by six or seven people. With custom winches to handle halyards and sheets, the sails can be hoisted astonishingly quickly for such a large rig. “It takes five minutes to put the main up, on average, and the main and mizzen can go up at the same time,” Tripp says. Aquijo has now sailed 100,000 nautical miles around the world and the owner is planning another circumnavigation through the Northwest Passage.

Tripp is not convinced of the wisdom of a much larger single-masted sloop rig. “If you are day sailing in the Med, a sloop would be awesome, but I am not sure if you had fewer sails you would be able to [reduce canvas] well enough. Also the mast is a windage problem when the keel is up and you are beam-to. If you are on anchor, that’s no problem but you’d have to be able to cope with being on the docks in 70 knots. The windage at 120 metres is not only more but the centre of effort is so much higher, and so the heeling loads all go up.”

However, British designer Malcolm McKeon , the name behind the high-performance, sloop-rigged carbon composite superyachts Missy and Ribelle , is pushing the sloop rig to new heights. His 85-metre design concept Apex, developed with Royal Huisman , would be the largest sloop-rigged yacht in the world. “The loads are enormous,” he admits, “but it is all scalable.”

“The big disadvantage is sail handling. The downwind sails are pretty complicated once you start hoisting and retrieving, even with drum and reel systems. It is not straightforward.” But, he adds, “I think we know the advantages of a sloop: if you want all-round performance you can’t beat it, even at the top end.”

Advantages of a clipper rig

The DynaRig has been around as a concept since the 1960s when German engineer Wilhelm Prölss devised these free-standing, rotating rigs as a fuel-saving solution for large commercial vessels. The idea was ahead of its time, so much so that its first realisation came nearly 40 years later when American owner Tom Perkins bought the residual technology and commissioned Dykstra Naval Architects to create a three-masted DynaRig for Maltese Falcon , his 88-metre Perini Navi.

The DynaRig is not as efficient upwind as the Bermudan rig, and is probably not the best solution for a yacht smaller than around 65 metres, suggests Jeroen de Vos of Dykstra. “We wouldn’t advise putting a DynaRig on a small yacht because there are other ways to manage sail handling. But on a larger yacht the DynaRig becomes an alternative because there is no rigging, no highly loaded sheets, low-tech [small] sails and no big winches.”

The beauty of the DynaRig is that its automatic systems can be handled by one or two people and, notes de Vos, “you don’t have to get out of your chair to go sailing. Maltese Falcon can sail on and off the anchor and can set 2,400 square metres of sail in six minutes. On other boats it takes six minutes to get the sail cover off.”

Damon Roberts of Magma Structures, which built the rigs for Maltese Falcon and the only other DynaRig yacht to date, the 106-metre Black Pearl , says: “You can do any manoeuvre easily; it’s like sailing a dinghy. There are no highly loaded sheets or ropes or flogging lines. You can luff up, bear away, tack and gybe at  any time and really enjoy sailing the boat without any apparent fuss.”

So with all these advantages, why has the DynaRig been chosen for only two sailing superyachts? For some designers, such as Malcolm McKeon, it is partly to do with compromises imposed by the large mast tubes and bearing diameters on the internal structure and layout, “particularly in the cockpit area,” he says. He also points out that the clipper ship look is not to every owner’s taste. “Sloops are more conventional looking,” he says.

Damon Roberts says there is still development work to be done. He has teamed up with Southern Spars and, with their additional resources, expects evolution with several new projects. “These include two at the moment that are twin-masted DynaRigs,” he says. “We did quite a lot of wind tunnel work early on as we felt that was really the sweet spot for it, and people will be stunned at how efficient these are.”

The future of the wingsail

Wingsails have been around for decades too, but with their adoption by the last two America’s Cups and the confluence with foiling technology, they have undergone rapid and revolutionary development.

To date, there is no proven solution for reefing a wing that would be suitable for offshore cruising or ocean passages. As the pronounced aerodynamic “nose” at the leading edge of a wing can develop force in strong winds, they could potentially make a large yacht uncontrollable in port as well.

“How do you get rid of sail and how does [a boat] handle when caught out in heavy wind conditions – which you will be? How do you keep the angle of attack all the way up the rig and how do you handle squalls?” Roberts asks. “A mechanism to reduce sail might be easy to sketch out but it is difficult to engineer.”

Jeroen de Vos says: “The wingsails are more developed towards performance and I wouldn’t say that they are as practical as soft sails or would ever make handling easier. But if somebody wants that, why not? Reefable soft sails, wings that are inflated, hoisted panels, possibly these are applicable. The development of this area is happening very rapidly.”

Paul MacDonald of Southern Spars agrees that the time is not here yet but thinks it will come. “In reality we are in the early days of wings. For the America’s Cup, they are the most efficient way of sailing by a long shot, but with them comes handling issues, which the industry hasn’t resolved yet. But I am sure they will be in 10 years’ time. Designers such as VPLP are starting to [work on concepts] and we are going to see something that is usable and efficient and suitable for ocean work eventually,” he says. “And whatever the solution is, you imagine that it will scale.”

Looking to the future

A drive for greener superyachts could present an opportunity for sail, but perhaps it needs to be less daunting.

“There is this intimidation of sheets and backstays, and sailing is a language you don’t learn in a year,” Tripp says. “But we have a project we are doing now with a yard with some new rig technology and some soft wings that we think is going to be viable.

“We can uncomplicate sailing more. If we can win people over from motorboats it will help, but we are only winning these battles one or two at a time. We need [more] projects like Sailing Yacht A , which are something really different, and do more things better with less energy. We as architects need to elicit change.”

McKeon also sees change coming. “People are more and more concerned about keeping their image green and sails are the way to do that,” he says. “Simpler sailing systems are needed. The current generation is used to Bermudan sloops. In years to come, the traditionalists will all be gone, and maybe new people will be more accepting of [different ideas]. I think in the future we will certainly have wings.”

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Strange Glow Over Moscow Skies Triggers Panic as Explosions Reported

B right flashes lit up the night sky in southern Moscow in the early hours of Thursday morning, new footage appears to show, following reports of an explosion at an electrical substation on the outskirts of the city.

Video snippets circulating on Russian-language Telegram channels show a series of flashes on the horizon of a cloudy night sky, momentarily turning the sky a number of different colors. In a clip shared by Russian outlet MSK1.ru, smoke can be seen rising from a building during the flashes lighting up the scene.

Newsweek was unable to independently verify the details of the video clips, including when and where it was filmed. The Russian Ministry of Emergency situations has been contacted via email.

Several Russian Telegram accounts said early on Thursday that residents of southern Moscow reported an explosion and a fire breaking out at an electrical substation in the Leninsky district, southeast of central Moscow.

Local authorities in the Leninsky district told Russian outlet RBC that the explosion had happened in the village of Molokovo. "All vital facilities are operating as normal," Leninsky district officials told the outlet.

The incident at the substation in Molokovo took place just before 2 a.m. local time, MSK1.ru reported.

Messages published by the ASTRA Telegram account, run by independent Russian journalists, appear to show residents close to the substation panicking as they question the bright flashes in the sky. One local resident describes seeing the bright light before losing access to electricity, with another calling the incident a "nightmare."

More than 10 villages and towns in the southeast of Moscow lost access to electricity, the ASTRA Telegram account also reported. The town of Lytkarino to the southeast of Moscow, lost electricity, wrote the eastern European-based independent outlet, Meduza.

Outages were reported in the southern Domodedovo area of the city, according to another Russian outlet, as well as power failures in western Moscow. Electricity was then restored to the areas, the Strana.ua outlet reported.

The cause of the reported explosion is not known. A Telegram account aggregating news for the Lytkarino area described the incident as "an ordinary accident at a substation."

The MSK1.ru outlet quoted a local resident who speculated that a drone may have been responsible for the explosion, but no other Russian source reported this as a possible cause.

Ukraine has repeatedly targeted Moscow with long-range aerial drones in recent months, including a dramatic wave of strikes in late May.

On Sunday, Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin said the region's air defense systems had intercepted an aerial drone over the city of Elektrostal, to the east of Moscow. No damage or casualties were reported, he said.

The previous day, Russian air defenses detected and shot down another drone flying over the Bogorodsky district, northeast of central Moscow, Sobyanin said.

There is currently no evidence that an aerial drone was responsible for the reported overnight explosion at the electrical substation in southern Moscow.

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40 facts about elektrostal.

Written by Lanette Mayes

Modified & Updated: 02 Mar 2024

Reviewed by Jessica Corbett

Elektrostal is a vibrant city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and a thriving community, Elektrostal is a city that has much to offer. Whether you are a history buff, nature enthusiast, or simply curious about different cultures, Elektrostal is sure to captivate you.

This article will provide you with 40 fascinating facts about Elektrostal, giving you a better understanding of why this city is worth exploring. From its origins as an industrial hub to its modern-day charm, we will delve into the various aspects that make Elektrostal a unique and must-visit destination.

So, join us as we uncover the hidden treasures of Elektrostal and discover what makes this city a true gem in the heart of Russia.

Key Takeaways:

• Elektrostal, known as the “Motor City of Russia,” is a vibrant and growing city with a rich industrial history, offering diverse cultural experiences and a strong commitment to environmental sustainability.
• With its convenient location near Moscow, Elektrostal provides a picturesque landscape, vibrant nightlife, and a range of recreational activities, making it an ideal destination for residents and visitors alike.

Known as the “Motor City of Russia.”

Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname “Motor City” due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.

Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Boasts a rich industrial heritage.

Elektrostal has a long history of industrial development, contributing to the growth and progress of the region.

Founded in 1916.

The city of Elektrostal was founded in 1916 as a result of the construction of the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Located approximately 50 kilometers east of Moscow.

Elektrostal is situated in close proximity to the Russian capital, making it easily accessible for both residents and visitors.

Known for its vibrant cultural scene.

Elektrostal is home to several cultural institutions, including museums, theaters, and art galleries that showcase the city’s rich artistic heritage.

A popular destination for nature lovers.

Surrounded by picturesque landscapes and forests, Elektrostal offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching.

Hosts the annual Elektrostal City Day celebrations.

Every year, Elektrostal organizes festive events and activities to celebrate its founding, bringing together residents and visitors in a spirit of unity and joy.

Has a population of approximately 160,000 people.

Elektrostal is home to a diverse and vibrant community of around 160,000 residents, contributing to its dynamic atmosphere.

Boasts excellent education facilities.

The city is known for its well-established educational institutions, providing quality education to students of all ages.

A center for scientific research and innovation.

Elektrostal serves as an important hub for scientific research, particularly in the fields of metallurgy, materials science, and engineering.

Surrounded by picturesque lakes.

The city is blessed with numerous beautiful lakes, offering scenic views and recreational opportunities for locals and visitors alike.

Well-connected transportation system.

Elektrostal benefits from an efficient transportation network, including highways, railways, and public transportation options, ensuring convenient travel within and beyond the city.

Famous for its traditional Russian cuisine.

Food enthusiasts can indulge in authentic Russian dishes at numerous restaurants and cafes scattered throughout Elektrostal.

Home to notable architectural landmarks.

Elektrostal boasts impressive architecture, including the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the Elektrostal Palace of Culture.

Offers a wide range of recreational facilities.

Residents and visitors can enjoy various recreational activities, such as sports complexes, swimming pools, and fitness centers, enhancing the overall quality of life.

Provides a high standard of healthcare.

Elektrostal is equipped with modern medical facilities, ensuring residents have access to quality healthcare services.

Home to the Elektrostal History Museum.

The Elektrostal History Museum showcases the city’s fascinating past through exhibitions and displays.

A hub for sports enthusiasts.

Elektrostal is passionate about sports, with numerous stadiums, arenas, and sports clubs offering opportunities for athletes and spectators.

Celebrates diverse cultural festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal hosts a variety of cultural festivals, celebrating different ethnicities, traditions, and art forms.

Electric power played a significant role in its early development.

Elektrostal owes its name and initial growth to the establishment of electric power stations and the utilization of electricity in the industrial sector.

Boasts a thriving economy.

The city’s strong industrial base, coupled with its strategic location near Moscow, has contributed to Elektrostal’s prosperous economic status.

Houses the Elektrostal Drama Theater.

The Elektrostal Drama Theater is a cultural centerpiece, attracting theater enthusiasts from far and wide.

Popular destination for winter sports.

Elektrostal’s proximity to ski resorts and winter sport facilities makes it a favorite destination for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter activities.

Promotes environmental sustainability.

Elektrostal prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, implementing initiatives to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources.

Home to renowned educational institutions.

Elektrostal is known for its prestigious schools and universities, offering a wide range of academic programs to students.

Committed to cultural preservation.

The city values its cultural heritage and takes active steps to preserve and promote traditional customs, crafts, and arts.

Hosts an annual International Film Festival.

The Elektrostal International Film Festival attracts filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts from around the world, showcasing a diverse range of films.

Encourages entrepreneurship and innovation.

Elektrostal supports aspiring entrepreneurs and fosters a culture of innovation, providing opportunities for startups and business development.

Offers a range of housing options.

Elektrostal provides diverse housing options, including apartments, houses, and residential complexes, catering to different lifestyles and budgets.

Home to notable sports teams.

Elektrostal is proud of its sports legacy, with several successful sports teams competing at regional and national levels.

Boasts a vibrant nightlife scene.

Residents and visitors can enjoy a lively nightlife in Elektrostal, with numerous bars, clubs, and entertainment venues.

Promotes cultural exchange and international relations.

Elektrostal actively engages in international partnerships, cultural exchanges, and diplomatic collaborations to foster global connections.

Surrounded by beautiful nature reserves.

Nearby nature reserves, such as the Barybino Forest and Luchinskoye Lake, offer opportunities for nature enthusiasts to explore and appreciate the region’s biodiversity.

Commemorates historical events.

The city pays tribute to significant historical events through memorials, monuments, and exhibitions, ensuring the preservation of collective memory.

Promotes sports and youth development.

Elektrostal invests in sports infrastructure and programs to encourage youth participation, health, and physical fitness.

Hosts annual cultural and artistic festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal celebrates its cultural diversity through festivals dedicated to music, dance, art, and theater.

Provides a picturesque landscape for photography enthusiasts.

The city’s scenic beauty, architectural landmarks, and natural surroundings make it a paradise for photographers.

Connects to Moscow via a direct train line.

The convenient train connection between Elektrostal and Moscow makes commuting between the two cities effortless.

A city with a bright future.

Elektrostal continues to grow and develop, aiming to become a model city in terms of infrastructure, sustainability, and quality of life for its residents.

In conclusion, Elektrostal is a fascinating city with a rich history and a vibrant present. From its origins as a center of steel production to its modern-day status as a hub for education and industry, Elektrostal has plenty to offer both residents and visitors. With its beautiful parks, cultural attractions, and proximity to Moscow, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this dynamic city. Whether you’re interested in exploring its historical landmarks, enjoying outdoor activities, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Elektrostal has something for everyone. So, next time you find yourself in the Moscow region, don’t miss the opportunity to discover the hidden gems of Elektrostal.

Q: What is the population of Elektrostal?

A: As of the latest data, the population of Elektrostal is approximately XXXX.

Q: How far is Elektrostal from Moscow?

A: Elektrostal is located approximately XX kilometers away from Moscow.

Q: Are there any famous landmarks in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to several notable landmarks, including XXXX and XXXX.

Q: What industries are prominent in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal is known for its steel production industry and is also a center for engineering and manufacturing.

Q: Are there any universities or educational institutions in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to XXXX University and several other educational institutions.

Q: What are some popular outdoor activities in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal offers several outdoor activities, such as hiking, cycling, and picnicking in its beautiful parks.

Q: Is Elektrostal well-connected in terms of transportation?

A: Yes, Elektrostal has good transportation links, including trains and buses, making it easily accessible from nearby cities.

Q: Are there any annual events or festivals in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal hosts various events and festivals throughout the year, including XXXX and XXXX.

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Our commitment to delivering trustworthy and engaging content is at the heart of what we do. Each fact on our site is contributed by real users like you, bringing a wealth of diverse insights and information. To ensure the highest standards of accuracy and reliability, our dedicated editors meticulously review each submission. This process guarantees that the facts we share are not only fascinating but also credible. Trust in our commitment to quality and authenticity as you explore and learn with us.

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Geographic coordinates of Elektrostal, Moscow Oblast, Russia

City coordinates

Coordinates of Elektrostal in decimal degrees

Coordinates of elektrostal in degrees and decimal minutes, utm coordinates of elektrostal, geographic coordinate systems.

WGS 84 coordinate reference system is the latest revision of the World Geodetic System, which is used in mapping and navigation, including GPS satellite navigation system (the Global Positioning System).

Geographic coordinates (latitude and longitude) define a position on the Earth’s surface. Coordinates are angular units. The canonical form of latitude and longitude representation uses degrees (°), minutes (′), and seconds (″). GPS systems widely use coordinates in degrees and decimal minutes, or in decimal degrees.

Latitude varies from −90° to 90°. The latitude of the Equator is 0°; the latitude of the South Pole is −90°; the latitude of the North Pole is 90°. Positive latitude values correspond to the geographic locations north of the Equator (abbrev. N). Negative latitude values correspond to the geographic locations south of the Equator (abbrev. S).

Longitude is counted from the prime meridian ( IERS Reference Meridian for WGS 84) and varies from −180° to 180°. Positive longitude values correspond to the geographic locations east of the prime meridian (abbrev. E). Negative longitude values correspond to the geographic locations west of the prime meridian (abbrev. W).

UTM or Universal Transverse Mercator coordinate system divides the Earth’s surface into 60 longitudinal zones. The coordinates of a location within each zone are defined as a planar coordinate pair related to the intersection of the equator and the zone’s central meridian, and measured in meters.

Elevation above sea level is a measure of a geographic location’s height. We are using the global digital elevation model GTOPO30 .

Elektrostal , Moscow Oblast, Russia