cs30 sailboat owners manual

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CS 30 is a 29 ′ 11 ″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by Tony Castro and built by CS Yachts (Canadian Sailcraft) between 1984 and 1990.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

This was the most popular model built by CS yachts with more than 90 built in the first year alone. Shoal draft version: 4.25’/1.3m. Shoal draft (wing keel with spade rudder); 4.5’/1.37m.

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CS 30 - basic info needed

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Need to learn a few things about the CS 30: Am I right that the hull is solid, NOT balsa cored anywhere? Did the factory overbore and epoxy the drill-throughs where the deck hardware was mounted, or otherwise prevent water from getting into the balsa core at the deck gear locations? Every model boat seems to have some "typical" trouble areas that will develop over the years. What typical problems should I be looking for when considering a purchase of a used CS 30? Which of those issues are in the have-to-fix category, and which should be considered deal-breakers? Some folks say that the CS 30 was designed for the Great Lakes; but others say it is fine for coastal ocean cruising. Is there any reason why an coastal ocean sailor should stay away from the CS 30? Finally: when the wind spikes, on my current boat I furl the jib, and sail on the mainsail alone -- reefing that only when the wind hits persistently more than 22 knots. The total "standard" sail plan on my boat is weighted: mainsail=57% and jib=43%. On the CS 30, the mainsail accounts for only 45% of the standard 462 SF sail plan. When the wind spikes, will the CS 30 handle well on mainsail alone; or what is the recommended response?  

Hull is solid, nor balsa core. Deck is balsa cored but solid along the perimeter where the toe rail bolts thru and the genoa track portions are solid. Note sure at the chain plates. Cockpit drain hoses should be replaced or inspected. Solid core AC wiring should be replaced. The holding tank should be fitted with an internal extension tube that will allow complete emptying of the tank. I dont like sailing with only one sail up. The 30 has a quite a bit of sail (with the 150 genoa), It feels too unbalanced to me on just one sail. I plan on purchasing a good used jib this winter to be better ready next year for those 25+ knt days.  

"nor" should read "no"  

Sailing with just the jib is a fine solution on boats with smaller mains. In addition to it being more convenient to simply unfurl the jib and go than to raise the main, on these boats the jib gives more drive than the main and may be necessary to retain good control. The only caveat is to anticipate and manage the resulting lee helm, in particular you need to ensure good momentum before going into a tack as it is easy to stall the boat. I never found jib-only sailing on my CS36T a problem, whereas the boat would only go downwind under main alone. The CS 30 is a sweet racer-cruiser, fine for coastal use, but you might lookup the story the story of the crew that raced one half-way to Bermuda before they got off... .  

can you remove the small inner forestay on a cs30, thanks  

Yes, its known as a baby stay. it is there to prevent the mast pumping when the loads are high during downwind sailing. i put a quick release fitting on the bottom. Unless youre racing you wont need it. IMHO  

After 4,587 surveys (including 36, CS30's) I have concluded that although not without faults, the CS boats (in particular the 27, 36T and 30) are at the very top of the heap of production boats. Paul Tennyson drew up a QC program and actually enforced it from day one of the plant opening. If you have surveyed one CS30, you have surveyed them all. Quite simply, by far the most consistent product of any builder. Send me a PM with your email address and I will send you an actual survey of a typical CS30 (Private info redacted) later tonight. It may give you an idea of what to look for. PS. I've never owned a CS and had no interest in the company.  

boatpoker said: After 4,587 surveys (including 36, CS30's) I have concluded that although not without faults, the CS boats (in particular the 27, 36T and 30) are at the very top of the heap of production boats... Click to expand...

gallilaw said: Need to learn a few things about the CS 30: Some folks say that the CS 30 was designed for the Great Lakes; but others say it is fine for coastal ocean cruising. Is there any reason why an coastal ocean sailor should stay away from the CS 30? Click to expand...

I just read this article on the CS30 abandoned on the return from Bermuda. It is a bit disconcerting, for sure. www(dot)soundingsonline.com/news/rented-epirb-brings-ocean-rescue-twice I wonder if they had the baby stay in place to reduce mast pumping, or would it not have helped? Isn't there a better option than mast wedges? In more general terms, how tender is the CS30, compared to say, a C&C 30 Mk1 (stiff), or a C&C 30 Mk2 (tender)? Not related to the above, just wondering.  

Hello all, This site has a wealth of info and photos of the CS30: CS30 Documents - Bottrell.ca  

I don't think that cruising around Vancouver Island necessarily requires a very large boat. Choose a decent weather window and learn enough in advance to avoid the extreme currents and numerous reefs.  

where is the story of the CS30 during Bermuda race? Thanks, Doug  

? ... post #14 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk  

As a proud owner for 5 years of a CS30 I will testify to the build quality, racing regularly after dialing in the needs of the Boat she is quite competitive. Should be reefed sooner than you would think, the Boat is easily sailed to hull speed. There's a "groove" that might be a bit hard to find at first but once found is easy to maintain. I did not buy for offshore work and frankly would have looked for something different, not because of the size just another design direction. Relatively tall rig, light(ish) displacement was my choice and I have no regrets at all. The recount of the offshore ditch proves the Boat can take more than the crew in almost every case and the hull problems would certainly be traced to a damage not properly repaired, there's just no design element of concern in the hull deck joint. The baby stay is there to stiffen up the mast column with inline stays but its a pretty tough stick, not bendy like the JBoats. Motoring in those conditions is tough on any Boat, I would have a third reef and a storm sail for those conditions but its a flat bottom to be pushing hard in the rough stuff.  

Wondering if I could take you up on your Kind offer to others about sending a CS30 survey? I live in Halifax NS and am looking at purchasing an (as yet unseen) '85 CS30, and receiving a survey might be very helpful in my hunt. Thanks, in advance. My email is: dean(at)deanmc(Dot)ca Dean  

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The Cs 30 is a 30.0ft masthead sloop designed by Tony Castro and built in fiberglass by CS Yachts (Canadian Sailcraft) between 1984 and 1990.

500 units have been built..

The Cs 30 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

Cs 30 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Canadian Sailcraft 30

Posted by Bert Vermeer | Boat Reviews , Monohull , Reviews

A Quick racer/cruiser from Canada

When Jack and Marilyn Williams moved west from their home province of Ontario in 1977, settling near Victoria on Vancouver Island, one of their priorities was to get out on the surrounding ocean.

They sailed their first boat, an O’Day 27 purchased in 1978, extensively through the spectacular cruising grounds of British Columbia, including a voyage out to Barkley Sound on Vancouver Island’s wild west coast. With an appetite for more distant horizons, the couple decided they wanted a bigger boat. A friend of theirs sailed a Canadian Sailcraft 36, a significantly larger boat and a bit more than they were prepared to take on. But they were impressed by Canadian Sailcraft design and workmanship and found a 1986 CS 30 that met all their expectations.

Jack and Marilyn were soon the owners of Musashi , named for a historical Japanese folk hero of the samurai era — an author, artist, philosopher, and swordsman. An artistic rendering of the hero remains framed on the cabin bulkhead.

With Musashi their sailing life expanded, including a 1991 Vancouver Island circumnavigation, a 30-day, 800-nautical mile adventure proving the CS 30 capable of open ocean seas and winds. Winds on the west coast can easily reach 40 knots at headlands, with whitecapped following seas under blue skies — a sailor’s dream. In the following years, they cruised Washington state’s Puget Sound, the Broughton Archipelago to the north, and the Canadian Gulf Islands.

Musashi’s stern carries an abundance of safety gear, plus a barbecue, swim ladder, anchor rode reel, and bimini with solar panel.

Leaning toward the IOR-influenced designs of the 1980s, the CS 30 is essentially a slippery hull that also features a comfortable cruising interior. Created by transplanted British designer Tony Castro, the CS 30 complemented the Canadian Sailcraft lineup between the 27 and 33. With an extensive background in developing race boats to current rules, Castro created a go-fast cruising boat that excels on all points of sail. A slim bow, beamy midship, and tapered stern all point to a hull that will sail well on the wind. The tall rig and deep keel complement that ability, and Castro designed both wing-keel and shoal-draft keel versions.

Construction

Canadian Sailcraft had a well-earned reputation for quality construction and finish. The company built 500 CS 30s at its factory in Brampton, Ontario, between 1984 and 1990. The single-skin hull with balsa-cored deck produced a comparatively light hull strengthened by a bonded fiberglass substructure under teak-and-holly floor panels.

The hull/deck joint is an inward-turned flange bolted through the anodized toerail on 4-inch centers with butyl tape used as a sealant. Interestingly, while most aluminum toerails of this era were slotted, the CS 30 has evenly spaced holes that serve as handy attachment points for turning blocks or fenders.

The 3,440-pound lead fin keel draws 5 feet 6 inches. The optional wing keel adds another 140 pounds with a 4-foot 6-inch draft, and the shoal keel is 400 pounds heavier with a 4-foot 3-inch draft. All three keel options are attached directly to the hull with a double row of stainless steel bolts. There is no keel stub as part of the hull, which results in a very shallow bilge sump under the floorboards, too shallow for the installation of a standard immersion-style bilge pump. A factory-installed manual pump is easily accessible from the helm position in the cockpit locker. Jack reports that the sump is generally dry, but with such a small capacity in the bilge before the floorboards start floating, I would install a remote bilge pump with a high-water alarm.

Deck and Rigging

The Isomat keel-stepped, double-spreader anodized aluminum mast has all shrouds terminating at single chainplates set well inboard of the toerail. This leaves a clear, unobstructed passage forward. However, without lower shrouds spaced fore and aft there is a risk of mast pumping in heavy seas. A jackstay has been provided as a preventive measure. The chainplates are bolted to the internal bulkhead, tucked behind removable fiberglass covers. On our review boat there was some evidence of water leaks in this area, so sealant around the chain- plates should be checked regularly.

Halyards are led aft from the mast base through turning blocks.

The mast has an integrated spinnaker track on the forward side, with control lines for the car included. However, without bearings on the car, it would be difficult to move under load. All running rigging is internal to the mast and exits at the base, turning out to deck organizers and aft to line stoppers with Lewmar 30 self-tailing winches. This is a perfect setup for the cruising family or singlehanded sailor, but not ideal for the racer as it’s going to get crowded in the cockpit.

The stem fitting at the bow is cast aluminum, incorporating a single bow roller and fairleads for docklines. The anchor locker lid has a molded arch at the forward edge for an anchor shaft reaching back from the roller. Unfortunately, this setup does not lend itself to easy installation of a windlass, something Jack is seriously considering as his next project.

The bow is clean, with ground tackle stowed in a locker and cleats mounted quite far aft and near the rails.

The backstay is secured to a chainplate mounted low on the slightly reversed transom. Adding an adjuster would require some thought, as the attachment point to the chainplate is almost out of reach. A remote hydraulic system would work well here.

The deck has a molded non-skid texture that has survived very well over the years. Contrary to the tradition of the day, the cabintop handrails are stainless steel, not high-maintenance teak. Musashi has four opening portlights on each side of  the cabin trunk, a large deck hatch over the V-berth, another over the main cabin, and a smaller hatch over the head. For inclement weather, a single Dorade vent provides circulation in the main cabin. This is more than adequate ventilation for a boat sailed in Canada, where it’s more important to keep the rain out than let a tropical breeze in! That said, I am somewhat surprised that an opening port was not installed in the galley to help ventilate cooking moisture.

Sail tracks long enough for virtually any size headsail hug the cabin trunk, allowing for close sheeting angles. The mainsheet traveler is mounted on the cabintop over the companionway sea hood, keeping the traveler out of the cockpit. Although the cabintop would not be considered cluttered, the multiple hatches, sail control lines, and sea hood leave little room for feet.

Unlike more modern designs with shallow cockpits (allowing for tall, roomy aft cabins), the CS 30 has a wonderfully deep and secure cockpit. Seating is long and wide, with cutouts to accommodate the 36-inch wheel mounted on a guarded pedestal. Coamings are tall enough to provide excellent back support.

Although the full height bridge deck ensures that any seas flooding into the cockpit won’t run into the cabin, it does make climbing into the cabin a bit more cumbersome.

For storage and access, there are three cockpit lockers, as well as a deep portside locker in the cockpit, that the average person can easily climb into for servicing the back end of the engine, transmission, hot water tank, and various electrical paraphernalia.

The use of numerous fiberglass moldings and composite panels is evident in this view of the saloon and forward cabin — most significantly, the pan that forms the sole and berth foundations. Note the molding that covers the bulkhead/deck join.

Accommodations

As I climbed over the bridge deck and into the companionway, my first impression was of bright, efficient use of space, with off-white interior panels that complement the teak trim.

A dedicated nav station is unusual in a 30-foot boat; the swing-out stool permits easier access to the quarter berth.

The compact galley has everything a cook needs to prepare tasty meals, and the U-shape provides security in a seaway.

The U-shaped galley is immediately to port. A deep single sink with both pressure and hand-pumped water is near the centerline. A good-sized icebox is next to it against the hull. For longer sailing adventures, Jack has added a portable Dometic cooler/freezer. A gimbled two-burner propane range with oven is against the hull, with storage behind it. There is also excellent storage in a cabinet under the countertop. To starboard is a small navigation station with a pull-out stool. There is limited room for navigational instruments, but the chart table will hold a typical-size chart book. Aft of the table is a double-wide, and very long, open quarter berth. Where many quarter berths are restricted in width by the engine compartment, on the CS 30 the engine is forward of this berth, and the mattress stretches all the way to the cockpit locker on the port side. There is certainly no sitting headroom under the cockpit sole, but lots of shoulder room.

Plumbing for a shower is included in the head, which is simple to keep clean. With an opening port and deck hatch, ventilation is good.

The starboard settee can be pulled out into a double berth. The 30-gallon freshwater tank is located underneath. Additional storage is available behind the seatbacks. A fold- down table on the bulkhead easily seats four. Handholds include oiled teak rails that run the length of the cabin under the portlights, and a stainless steel post at the galley island.

Moving forward, the head is a separate compartment to starboard. Opposite it is a substantial hanging locker. The locker door performs double duty, also serving as a door for the V-berth, which is relatively small. Although there is a fill-in panel to create a wide mattress at the shoulders, the berth is relatively short for a 6-foot person.

Although the CS 30 was originally equipped with a two-cylinder Volvo Penta 2002 18-hp diesel engine, Musashi is now powered with a three-cylinder Beta 20 installed in 2020. Jack also replaced the 18-gallon aluminum fuel tank mounted behind the engine and the hot water tank in the cockpit locker.

Access to the engine compartment is behind the bottom half of the companionway stairs, which are built into a large, removable fiberglass box. The Beta 20 has all major servicing points at the front of the engine, and access is excellent.

Heating the interior to a comfortable level is critical in British Columbia, particularly in the shoulder seasons. An Espar diesel forced air furnace was added during a recent upgrade.

The electrical panel and battery switch are located behind the companionway, easily visible and accessible. Two 6-volt AGM house batteries are located under the portside settee, with two 12-volt starter batteries under the starboard settee. A solar panel atop the bimini frame over the aft end of the cockpit keeps the batteries topped up.

Sailing conditions were challenging when I climbed aboard Musashi , with not a breath of wind on a calm fall day. Control under power was exactly as expected, the deep rudder in the prop wash providing precise directional control even at low speed. Backing down was dead straight. I was expecting prop walk in one direction or the other, but that was not evident. Jack cruises at about 2,500 rpm with 5.5 knots of boat speed. Engine noise in the cockpit was acceptable.

Motoring out over mirrored water, we found a patch of wind, then hoisted the main and pulled out the genoa. The Harken roller furling performed well. Both the full-batten main and 110% genoa were about 5 years old, with excellent shape. Musashi accelerated smoothly in the light 7 to 9 knots of breeze, heeling nicely and pointing well. The cockpit coaming on the leeward side was ideal for watching sail trim and reaching the genoa sheet winch. She tacked easily through 100 degrees and would likely do better with a bit more wind. The Whitlock geared steering was very sensitive to the touch, with excellent feedback and no noticeable slack — no cables to adjust or maintain. The wind was too light to cause any weather helm, but Jack reports that even in heavier air, with the sails trimmed properly, the CS 30 can go hands-off for long distances.

Although we didn’t have an opportunity to sail through any seas, Jack and Marilyn report that Musashi had no undesirable characteristics while sailing in ocean waves during their Vancouver Island circumnavigation. The boat was not squirrelly in heavy following seas, and they were quite confident in her capabilities.

The PHRF ratings for most fleets in the U.S. and Canada are 150 seconds per mile. A J/30’s numbers are very close at 144, while an O’Day 30’s are around 189.

I believe the CS 30 is exactly what Tony Castro intended all those years ago: a fast coastal cruiser designed without the constraints of racing rules. Fast under all points of sail, efficient under power, and nimble under both, the CS 30 exemplifies quality design and production. Fastidiously maintained, Musashi is a fine example of the heyday of volume  production boats. I would have no hesitation taking this good old boat for extended coastal cruising, including open ocean sails off the West Coast of British Columbia.

A recent search for CS 30s for sale found only two, priced at $23,000 and $25,000.

Slip Stream is a 1985 model, Hull #25 of around 500 built between 1984 and 1990.

CS 30 Owner Comments

I own a 1985 CS 30 shoal- draft version with a 150% roller-furling genoa. That and the mainsail work well up to about 12 knots of true wind before the boat feels overpowered with excessive weather helm. In the 12- to 20-knot range, I furl the genoa to the size of a 110% genoa. I also put a reef in the main. The boat is quite stiff. At about 45 degrees of heel, the rudder loses grip in the water and the boat rounds up.

I consider the build quality better than the typical production boat such as a Catalina, but not as good as top-level boats. The boat is probably on a par with a C&C, Pearson, Sabre, or Tartan. The hull is on the light side and it has more sail area than most 30-footers, so I consider it more of a bay boat or a coastal cruiser than an oceangoing boat. The boatyard needs to be careful in the placement of the jack stands, as the fiberglass is on the thin side and there are no solid bulkheads aft of the companionway.

The packing gland on the propeller shaft is hard to adjust unless you remove the rear side of the engine compartment. The batteries are located under the galley sink, making them somewhat hard to remove or replace.

I once had a leak between the keel and the bottom of the boat due to the sealing material deteriorating after 30 years of use. The keel had to be dropped and new sealant applied. The boat is susceptible to gelcoat blistering. When I purchased the boat in 1993, the previous owner had just had the old gelcoat removed and a barrier coat applied. I found that if I kept the boat in the water year-round, some blistering reappeared. I fixed those spots and started hauling the boat out each winter and have had no further problems.

—Wade Moler, Linthicum, Maryland

Mark’s wife, Carole, skippers Silhouette in their home waters of New Brunswick.

I am the owner of a 1988 CS 30. She has the deep keel and points very well. I sailed for many years with a 150% genoa, but when I purchased new sails I opted for a 135 as I was often sailing with a partially furled #1. These boats like to be sailed fairly flat. They love 10 to 15 degrees of heel, and you will easily see why if you get overpowered. She isn’t generally considered tender, but finding the right amount of sail area is key. The bottom is on the flat side forward, which can lead to some pounding when the going gets rough.

In my opinion, the boat is very well built. There are plenty of articles about blistering of the gelcoat, but I did an epoxy bottom job on her and have never experienced blistering.

I like the cockpit shape, and in particular the height of the cockpit seatbacks. The coaming isn’t the most comfortable, but the trade-off is the comfort of the cockpit seats.

The fact that one has to step up onto the cockpit seats to get around the helm isn’t a big inconvenience. I bought a Lewmar folding steering wheel, which is absolutely wonderful when lounging in the cockpit at the dock or cleaning the boat.

—Mark Bridges, Shediac Bay Yacht Club, Shediac, New Brunswick

There is very little exterior wood to maintain, only the companionway trim. There is no core in the hull or the stringers, except the one behind the holding tank. Only the deck and coach roof have core. The keel is lead, so it doesn’t rust. There is no core in the rudder (the bottom is hollow and sacrificial in case of grounding). You do need a drain hole for winter storage, however.

I like the ease of regular maintenance and the build strength — after two groundings, one at more than 5 knots hitting a vertical rock to a dead stop with no hull damage, I can attest to that. There’s very good engine access and singlehanding is easy. The interior is spacious, with standing headroom everywhere.

The space behind the nav table and breaker panel is very limited. It’s hard to overstate how difficult it is to run new pipes and wiring. There’s very little space between the hull and interior finishing. If you like to tinker with systems, spend a day drilling multiple holes in the fiberglass stringers on the port side (remember, there is no core to rot; water actually circulates in the stringers anyway) that go from the galley sink all the way to the head sink, and are large enough to run wires. I did manage to add an electric bilge pump, forced air heater, modern autopilot, and an inverter, but it required a lot of creative use of space and drilling large holes through multiple layers.

The extremely pointy V-berth is only usable for a single typical adult. Most owners use the rear double berth.

—Benoit Grégoire, Montreal, Quebec

Benoit Grégoire’s Exode Urbain is well equipped for cruising with a swim ladder, a life ring ready for deployment, and a barbecue grill.

When we were shopping for a sailboat in 2001, the beautiful lines and features of this boat captured our attention. However, the 5-foot 5-inch fin keel was a concern for our home waters in northern Minnesota. After consulting with Mars Metals in Burlington, Ontario, we decided to purchase the boat and modify the keel. We reduced the draft to 4 feet 3 inches (with a chain saw) and added a bulb custom made by Mars Metals.

The hull has remained solid after 38 years, with minimal blistering. The bilge is shallow, making it difficult to maintain a dry bilge.

Occasionally the deck-and-hull joint will leak, especially when beating to windward in heavy winds. The stanchions would be improved with a better design for connecting to the deck.

—Paul and Diane Losinski, Cold Spring, Minnesota

About The Author

Bert Vermeer

Bert Vermeer and his wife, Carey, live in a sailor's paradise. They have been sailing the coast of British Columbia for more than 30 years. Natasha is their fourth boat (following a Balboa 20, an O'Day 25, and another Islander Bahama 30). Bert tends to rebuild his boats from the keel up. Now, as a retired police officer, he also maintains and repairs boats for several non-resident owners.

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Canadian Sailcraft Cs 30 Boats for sale

1988 Canadian Sailcraft CS30

San Diego, California

Make Canadian Sailcraft

Category Sailboats

Posted Over 1 Month

1988 Canadian Sailcraft CS30 30' CS30 '88 "Fritha" The Canadian Sailcraft, Fritha, is an exceptionally clean and well maintained vessel. A comfortable near coastal cruiser or a great little PHRF handicap racer. Interior is like new and the decks and spars are in great condition. Come take a look.

1985 Canadian Sailcraft CS30

Sea Bright, New Jersey

1985 Canadian Sailcraft CS30 This well built Canadian boat is well known for her performance and cruising comfort. Built to high standards with a solid fiberglass hull, lead keel and spade rudder. All lines lead aft to the cockpit for easy sailing.

Bayville, New Jersey

1985 Canadian Sailcraft CS 30 Sailboat

Toronto, Ontario

Model CS 30

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 30.0

1985 CS 30 - Asking $35,000 Hull #4401deep fin 5'-6" draft30' LOA10'-3" beam Hull: - White topsides and white deck with darkblue boot stripe.- The bottom has layers of VC tar with yearly coats of VC17m anti fouling paint. Engine: - 18hp Volvo 2002 (very clean)- Racor Fuel Filter- 2 bladed fixed prop Ventillation: - 7 opening ports- 3 opening hatches (lewmar)- 1 day-night ventilator Bilge: - Automatic/manual switch-rule 500 gpm bilge pump- Manual bilge pump, emergency bilge pump thru engine intake Electrical: - 2003 True Charge 10-amp charger- 2 x 12 volt house batteries (220 amp)- new bow light- new steaming/fore deck light- voltmeter- 50 feet shore power cable Cabin: - Standard CS30 Layout- 6'-2" headroom- v berth, dry locker, head, settee,nav station and quarter berth- Teak and holly floor (refinished 2004)- two burner propane stove with oven. Instruments: - Depth and knot log- Autohelm 4000- Standard Horizon Intrepid VHF with RAM mic- Pioneer am/fm/CD with tow speakers- Magellan 315 GPS Sails:- North sail main with one reef and Furling Genoa 2006- Main sail cover 2006- North #3 storm jib- North cruising spinnaker with hoisting sock and whisker pole- Sheets, turning blocks, adjustable baby stay, furler, deployable lazy jacks- All lines to cockpit with 8 clutches- 2 Lewmar 2-speed ST44 primaries- 2 Lewmar 2-speed ST30 secondaries. All halyards and sheets 2003. New Additions: - Ice box converted to NOVAL KOOL refrigerator 2007- New boom added 2012- Back stay adjuster replaced 2014 Misc: - custom cockpit cushions- doger, cockpit shade, teak flagpole, barometer and clock- 25 lb CQR with chain and 250' rope , lunch anchor- cockpit table- Force 10 BBQ- Stern rail seats- heel level indicator- bow seat, folding cradle- Winter frame Includes owners manual for boat and gear. Well cared for ... its time for someone else to enjoy her. Docked in Toronto ,Ontario, Canada

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• Yamaha Manuals
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Yamaha CS-30 Owner's Manual

• Service manual (47 pages)
• Owner's manual (24 pages)
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27-34 6/10/03

CS 27 for Sale � Gananoque, Ontario Excellent cruiser/club racer 1976 desirable shoal draft 3�11� sloop rig / 8HP diesel Well equipped and well maintained. Accommodations: Sleeps five with two forward on a V berth, two on a port convertible dinette, one on starboard settee. New cushions 2002. Large hanging locker to starboard aft of v-berth. Head is to port/aft of v-berth with toilet, and wash basin. U-shaped dining area with double fold down table. Storage under Port and Starboard Settee. Custom Cherry/Ash cabin sole. Galley: Two burner pressurized gimbaled alcohol stove, stainless steel sink with electric pump, ample storage and large cooler for provisions. Cockpit: Stainless Steel Force 10 charcoal BBQ, boom tent, pedestal steering with binnacle compass and beautiful mahogany cockpit table 2002, cockpit cushions new 2002, huge storage capacity in 4 cockpit lockers. Rigging: Sloop rig, deck stepped aluminum mast and boom spreaders, Split backstay with adjuster, wheel steering, boom vang, upgraded traveler, Aluminum whisker pole, spinnaker pole. All lines lead aft for single-handed sailing. Winches: 2 � Genoa sheet winches, 2 -Secondary winches, 2 - Halyard winches on cabin top, includes two winch handles. Sails: #1, #2, #3 foresails--1 main with Jiffy reefing for single handed sailing--1 spinnaker with snuffer sock and turtle. Lots of running rigging for sails (all include snap shackles) Ground tackle: 7.5 Kg Bruce anchor with approx 60 feet of chain and 120 feet of rode, mounted on upgraded bowroller, Danforth anchor with approx 15 feet of chain and 60 feet of rode. Many extras: See web page for details/pictures: www.cyberus.ca/~ahemlin Asking $23,750 cdn

Excellent condition, well maintained, immaculate teak interior.

Bright red hull/white rim. Hull painted last year. Antifouling spring '06. Main, genoa (150%), jib, stormjib, new spinnaker. Tiller steering. 4 Lewmar winches. Yanmar Diesel 8HP (serviced spring '06), new batteries, Danforth anchor, Dinghy, Garmin GPS, VHF, Sony AM/FM/CD-player cabin/cockpit speakers. BBQ, made to measure cockpit cushions. Survey 2005. Asking price: $21.000,00 We are only selling our dreamboat, due to a worktransfer abroad. She is at the Royal St. Lawrence Yachtclub, Dorval, Québec. email : kflynn4[AT]sympatico.ca -->

Asking $29,000 - (DEEPLY DISCOUNTED!!! MUST SEE- MUST SELL NOW.

Asking $63,000;

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Looking for a Catalina 30 Manual

• Thread starter Ron Allen
• Start date Sep 19, 2013
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 30

I have a 1989 Catalina 30 #5528 and am looking for an owners manual.Just purchased the boat and am unsure about some of the connections for the mast and roller set up.Thanks, Ron  

Stu Jackson

Ron,m have you tried Google? Catalina 30 owners manual shows a lot of hits.  

Yes ,thanks Im a member but the manual posted is for an older version of the boat.  

Here is the C 30 Manual Funny I have never actually seen or found this manual online until now. It should be on the Catalina 30 Website but it isn't. Its rather brief being only about 13 pages, but has some valuable info in it for the beginner. It also mentions a general handbook for the C 30, which I've also never seen before. The International C 30 website only has the parts manual.  

Attachments

• Catalina-2030-20Mark-1 Owners manual.pdf 2 MB Views: 3,744

OK, OK, if you want a C30 manual for a boat that's NOT a C30 but about as close as you can get, try this: http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf Almost everything, including the basic electrical, is the same, except for location(s).  

Did you check Catalinadirect.com?  

@LuzSD. I have the 1990 C30 manual, you're right that would be a bunch of scanning. If you get a specific question, snap a picture and email it.  

I also have the manual for a 1990 and scanned it to PDF. but it is a large file and cannot be emailed. Close to a 100gb. I'll see if there is a way to reduce it or break it up in smaller sections.  

It'd be helpful if Ron, the OP, came back and answered the questions those of you who are kindly offering raised. What can be so different in an 88 boat than others?  

Lost Parent

check catalina direct  

39.95  

jrowan said: Funny I have never actually seen or found this manual online until now. It should be on the Catalina 30 Website but it isn't. Its rather brief being only about 13 pages, but has some valuable info in it for the beginner. It also mentions a general handbook for the C 30, which I've also never seen before. The International C 30 website only has the parts manual. Click to expand

Just got back to reply.Thanks for the manual.I printed it out and it seems that there is not much difference in the 34 to the 30.Thanks Again Ron  

Hi is it all on 1 file?You can use winzip to reduce it to a more manageable size.Thanks for your help.... Ron  

Re: we have one........... but Thanks for the help.My problem is the rigging.The boat mover took all my lines off and I do not have pics of the lines or the way the Hood fureler attaches to the front stay.Thanks again Ron  

I now have the document in 3 parts at around 7gb each which I can email if you want. It is pdf. Just send me a PM  

Thanks I just sent you a PM.......Ron  

Doug, I wonder if your pdf scan of the full owners manual can be uploaded to the International Catalina 30 website, as it would be a great document for C 30 owners to have, & would answer a lot of questions that newbies have about their boats.  

Done! Didnt realize I could upload http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Catalina_gen_25168855.pdf  

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