Captain Curran's sailing blog

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October 16, 2015

Replacing a broken gooseneck on my sailboat mast, 2 comments:.

Captain Curran, The problem I have is the stainless steel car that attaches to the mainsail clew is stuck inside the aluminum boom groove. I have tried striking it with a mini sledge and now I am a little afraid it will break the car in half instead of loosening it if I hit it with all of my force. I am tempted to try heating it with a propane torch to loosen it up. Do you think this will work without causing weakness or sag to the aluminum boom. Thanks. [email protected] S/V Zig Zag

I'm a fan of the propane torch I would just go easy A few seconds of heat in the right spots Then start tapping with a mallet A good pre soak with solvents should help But only if you can get the solvents into the contact points Good luck and keep me posted!

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Boom goosenecks! fixed or sliding?

Windkiller

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Hello I'm curious as to opinions on the merits or lack therof of the fixed vs sliding goosenecks(with downhauls) Most of my boats have had sliding types with downhauls I was given to understand they give more sail adjustment options What say you all?  

I agree with you.  

The sliding gooseneck allows you to tension the luff of the main. by hauling down the gooseneck after raising the main. As boats get larger, a winch is usually provided for this purpose, permitting a fixed gooseneck.  

mitiempo

If you have or are planning for a solid vang you need a fixed gooseneck.  

Thanks that's qute informative i have a Danica 16 (NOrdica 16 full keel pocket cruiser) Somebody had replaced the mast and in doing so put a fixed gooseneck on it...but seemly too high as the boom end wants to hang down and the sail bags out freakishly, So I was considering switching to a sliding unit Perhaps I'll just consider moving it down It is a light rig though Any opinions on that?  

RichH

You may simply be not correctly raising your (dacron) mainsail which will 95% of the time result in the conditions you describe, or the mainsail may need a bit of 'adjustment' by a sailmaker. Here's the 'fix': How to properly RAISE a woven dacron mainsail - SailboatOwners.com  

Thanks I'll try that suggestion I'm heading over to work on her right now  

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Rise Up! How to Raise Your Sailboat Mast

Posted by Zoran Glozinic | Dogwatch , Projects , Sails & Canvas

Rise Up! How to Raise Your Sailboat Mast

Spring is here and marinas will soon be filled with mast-raisers. And while the world is filled (to the brim?) with mast-raising solutions, I have another. I believe my method is possibly the simplest solution most applicable to a wide range of boats. It allows a sailor to raise a mast independently, without a crane, affording freedom. It also enables a sailor to do it by themself. And while most mast-raising solutions require various panoply of items a sailor needs to either purchase or fabricate—various gin poles, A-frames, lifting poles, winches, 2×6 boards, lawn-mower wheels, and mast supports mounted to rudder fittings on the transom—and while sailors who trailer their boats to various waters have to carry all of that with them, the solution I’ve come up with uses a very small amount of extra equipment, so small it can almost be carried in one’s pocket.

fixed gooseneck sailboat

Everything rigged and mast ready to be raised with a tug on the mainsheet.

So, what is required and how do you rig it?

  • First, to use my solution, your mast should have a mast base/step or tabernacle on which the mast can pivot. This is common.
  • Next, there will need to be an attachment point on either side of the boat, aligned with the mast pivoting point—athwartships and on the same axis. You might need to get creative here because each boat is different. The two attachment points (eyes are fine) can be permanent (as in this photo), or they can be made using a steel ring and two short lengths of steel wire or chain temporarily attached to an existing hardpoint. The wider these attachment points are spaced, the better, because they serve as hardpoints to attach two sets of temporary shrouds.
  • About seven feet above the mast step (or as high as you can comfortably reach up the mast when it’s vertical) on either side of the mast, there must be tangs or permanent mounts to attach the mast-supporting set of temporary shrouds. I used a length of ¼-inch threaded rod that passes through the mast and through two small hardwood blocks and two small tangs made from mild steel. I install these tangs when needed, using wingnuts. When sailing, there is nothing on the mast to snag halyards, and the two small holes are not something I worry about.

And that is it for boat modifications.

fixed gooseneck sailboat

Mast successfully raised, note the athwartships attachment points on the dorade boxes and the two sets of temporary shrouds.

fixed gooseneck sailboat

A close-up view of the athwartships attachment points.

To raise and lower the mast, I rig things and operate as follows. In this example, the mast is attached to a pivoting base and stowed lowered onto the bow pulpit.

  • Between the athwartships attachment points and the mast tangs, I attach a set of temporary shrouds. These I made from coated wire rope (the same as used for lifelines). These will remain taut for the duration of the mast raising or lowering (because they’re attached on the same axis on which the mast pivots) and serve to prevent the mast from swaying from side to side.
  • I attach the boom like I’m ready to sail, 90 degrees to the mast, connected to the gooseneck fitting and with the topping lift and end-of-boom mainsheet rigged. I use the main halyard and boom downhaul to keep the gooseneck fixed (so it cannot slide up or down, if track-mounted).
  • Between the athwartships attachment points and the clew end of the boom, I attach a second set of temporary shrouds. These I made from low-stretch braided line and they will also remain taut for the entire mast raising and lowering.
  • Once all set, I pull on the mainsheet (rigged with 4:1 block-and-tackle for purchase) to raise the mast. It’s relatively easy and the mast remains in control; I can stop and start at any point in the process if needed.

If my mast was instead pivoted aft and stowed on an aft-rail support, I could still use the same method, but I would have to attach a separate gooseneck fitting on the front of the mast and some separate running rigging to function as the topping lift does.

Happy spring mast raising!

fixed gooseneck sailboat

One nice-to-have modification I’ve made is to the pulpit where my mast rests when stowed. I made a wooden mast support mounted on the bow rail. The rubber roller has two positions: the lower position is used for winter mast storage, and the upper position allows for easy mast sliding, fore and aft, when getting it to the exact position in order to install (remove) the pivoting bolt/pin at the mast base or tabernacle. When not in use, I stow this support at the bottom of a sail locker.

About The Author

Zoran Glozinic

Zoran Glozinic

Zoran Glozinic is a retired business professional who has been messing around in boats and old cars all his life. He currently lives in Laval, Quebec, where he divides his free time between a good old English bilge-keel boat and a 16-year-old Saab car.

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Raising the Gooseneck

  • Thread starter steve.bp65
  • Start date Sep 25, 2015
  • Hunter Owner Forums
  • Smaller Boats

Crazy Dave Condon

I would not suggest doing that. However with the mainsail up, take a pair of binoculars and see how much room or distance at the height of the sail to the top of the mast. You have to figure some stretch to the mainsail as over time that can happen. If you do not have enough space, then you have only two options. Option 1 would be to cut the sail height down and that would hurt the performance a lot but it would allow the movement of the boom up. Option 2 would be to take the boat back to the person who measured for the bimini because I hate to say this but there is a heck of a lot of liability there because he should have figured for that. Generally a good loft if questioning the height would have raised the mainsail and then measured for proper fit. I think your installer erred in this case and he should be responsible for making things right.  

twodzusfittings

This action in my opinion, and as previously stated in other posts, has no merit and is not necessarily fact, would lead to a change in the main sail performance. By setting the boom higher, it will make the sail baggier, if the sail currently fills the length of the mast when fully hoisted. I adjusted my Bimini slightly higher, so that the boom can swing just under the front of the Bimini. As the sail does not come all the way to the end of the boom, there is now no interference.  

put a reefing cringle on the leach about 6 in up from the boom, when you sail with the bimini up tie in that short reef, it will be like a flattening reef and will keep the boom a little higher and not hurt performance much, I have sailed a boat for years with this and seems to work ok.  

Siamese

It appears the two main options are to raise the boom or lower the bimini. There's probably no right or wrong option, so I can only say what I would do if I'd made this blunder. I'd bite the bullet and have the bimini lowered. No way I'd cripple my boat with a permanent reef. I wasn't there for the conversation with the fabricator and don't know if boom position was ever discussed, and whether you represented it to him directly or indirectly as being in the sailing position. Did you, or did you not tell him the boom was in the sailing position? If you did, then morally, it would be your responsibility. All that said, if it was me, and I had told him that's where the boom is when sailing, I'd pay for the refit of the canvas, and ask him if he offers a discount for people who screw up, but either way, I'd have it recut.  

My 240 came from previous owner with a Boomkicker to support the boom, so no need for the topping lift. The front of my Bimini just fits under the boom this way and works very well for me. I haven't seen how the boom is positioned without the boomkicker, but maybe that's so something to consider to help you out.  

Crazy Dave Condon said: I would not suggest doing that. However with the mainsail up, take a pair of binoculars and see how much room or distance at the height of the sail to the top of the mast. You have to figure some stretch to the mainsail as over time that can happen. If you do not have enough space, then you have only two options. Option 1 would be to cut the sail height down and that would hurt the performance a lot but it would allow the movement of the boom up. Option 2 would be to take the boat back to the person who measured for the bimini because I hate to say this but there is a heck of a lot of liability there because he should have figured for that. Generally a good loft if questioning the height would have raised the mainsail and then measured for proper fit. I think your installer erred in this case and he should be responsible for making things right. Click to expand
twodzusfittings said: This action in my opinion, and as previously stated in other posts, has no merit and is not necessarily fact, would lead to a change in the main sail performance. By setting the boom higher, it will make the sail baggier, if the sail currently fills the length of the mast when fully hoisted. I adjusted my Bimini slightly higher, so that the boom can swing just under the front of the Bimini. As the sail does not come all the way to the end of the boom, there is now no interference. Click to expand
Siamese said: It appears the two main options are to raise the boom or lower the bimini. There's probably no right or wrong option, so I can only say what I would do if I'd made this blunder. I'd bite the bullet and have the bimini lowered. No way I'd cripple my boat with a permanent reef. I wasn't there for the conversation with the fabricator and don't know if boom position was ever discussed, and whether you represented it to him directly or indirectly as being in the sailing position. Did you, or did you not tell him the boom was in the sailing position? If you did, then morally, it would be your responsibility. All that said, if it was me, and I had told him that's where the boom is when sailing, I'd pay for the refit of the canvas, and ask him if he offers a discount for people who screw up, but either way, I'd have it recut. Click to expand
caverun said: I'm only new to sailing and on the two occasions that I had sailed her I had mistakenly sailed with the topping lift attached thinking this was the done thing. I sail my 240 with the topping lift attached all the time. With the mainsail raised it is slack, and with the main down, it supports the boom. You do know the topping lift is adjustable at the front of the boom? One of the 3 lines running through the boom is for the topping lift- so you could try sailing with it tightened to support the boom with the sail up- this will give you worse sail shape of course, but you could try it. Click to expand

sailmaster39

Raise gooseneck I'm gonna disagree with everybody, I raised my boom on a Beneteu 235 about 6 inches, no noticeable difference in performance. You cut your sail also unless you have extra room on top of mast.  

Ron20324

Why not just undo the main's tack fitting and see how much farther you can raise the sail?  

whoever made the bimini should have refused to make it if he was not use to sailboats. I would take the boat back to him for a recut.  

isaksp00

Long thread, but ... per Caverun's comments, if the topping lift is set up correctly you should be able to lower and raise the boom. The PO on my boat had altered it by using a fixed length wire rope from the mast crane to a shackle attached to the aft boom fitting (the topping lift line through the boom had been removed). I fixed it, by reinstalling a nylon topping lift line into the boom, and shortening the wire rope so it ended about 3 ft above the boom end, and adding a small swivel block to the lower end of the topping lift wire. The topping lift nylon line routes out the rear of the boom through the sheave, up to the swivel block, then down to be tied off to the boom end. I can raise the boom by pulling the topping lift at the front end of the boom. I leave it a bit high when the main is stowed and then loosen the line after I raise the main. Something like this (or any correct use of the topping lift through the boom) would allow you to raise the boom a bit when sailing. The shape of the main might not be ideal in that case, but since it ought to be rigged properly anyway, you could try it when it is high enough to clear the bimini and see how it looks.  

It is not uncommon to have the end of the boom supported only by the sail to drop two or more inches below its parallel position. That will not yield the best sail shape for most conditions. We usually look for the boom to run parallel to the boat's deck but it is not unusual to sail with the boom's end higher than the goose neck. This creates an angle which raises the mid section of the boom and it could provide the gap needed to clear the bimini in cases where the goose neck can not be lifted any more. Yes you can adjust the height and support the boom while sailing with the topping lift. Before making any changes just give it a try by just raising the end section of the boom until it clears the top. If you are not happy with the sail shape then see how far up you can bring the gooseneck. Make sure there is room to raise the sail fully to a tightened position and that should provide the limit to how high it can go. If you must rivet the goose neck then allow a little extra room for sail stretch.  

patn44

you might have to recut the sail (there by loosing sail area / speed) if you raise the boom.  

I really don`t think raising the gooseneck 3-4 inches would affect performance significantly. You should have room to raise your sail without altering your sail. Everything is a compromise. As stated earlier my,the previous owner of my Beneteau 235 raised the gooseneck 6 + inches and I still beat the competition. This was my second Beneteau 235,so I know the boat. Have Fun Richard  

Steve; There has been a lot said from cutting the sail, raising the boom, performance affected/not affected and so on. First I was involved with the 23.5 project and introduced this boat. The original bimini design is the same sold by the Forum Store as I was there for the first measuring of the bimini offered in either 4 or 6 feet long. Your approach to cutting it down is what I would have told you. I am not a naval architect but have been around boats most of my life and learned from the best and the old timers who knew a trick or two. I speak only in layman's terms. The Hunter water ballast boats I was very much involved and sold the majority as a dealer. Now you can see I try to help from a layman's standpoint. As for the topping lift on the 23.5 it is a Z Spar or U.S Spar (Z spar) that has the lever up forward but the line can slip. As for the topping lift, it keeps the boom from falling into the cockpit damaging the boat and folks from being hit with or without injury. Here is a trick I did with mine since the line slipped thru the lever at times. I use to put a big knot in it so it could not slip thru the lever all the way. In adition there is a block with two sheaves, becket ( for attachment) with a v jam used in small boat boom vangs that I would tie to the end of the line exiting the boom and then rounte the 1/4 inch line topping lift thru it so I could raise or lower the boom and simply jam that line in a hurry. My customers liked that set up.  

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Sunfish gooseneck assembly

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    Columbia Payne 9.6 sailboat For Sale; Used sailboat parts for sale. Beta 16 hp diesel engine for sale (SOLD) Where Am I Now? Sailing the World. The Boat. To Do List; The Route. ... fixed-gooseneck-retrofit. Jacob / October 20, 2017 / 0 / 342. 0. Shares. Facebook Twitter Pinterest Google+. Jacob 2017-10-20. Previous post There is no more story.

  19. Fixed Mast Bracket C-30 Gooseneck

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