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A site for sailors, by sailors, replace your sailboat running rigging, replacing running rigging on an older sailboat.

If you’re thinking of buying a used sailboat it’s probable that your final selection will be a boat that is a few years old – and the halyards, mainsheet, backstay, jibsheets and other running rigging will probably look a little old, dirty and frayed.

Your first thought may be to replace this old stuff with some of the bright new high tech line you can find in your local chandlery.

But you should think carefully before you go ahead and buy any high tech replacement running rigging. You could be setting yourself up for some serious problems, as well a spending a lot of unnecessary money into the bargain.

high tech is too strong

The biggest problem with rigging and older sailboat with high-tech lines to control the sails is that the lines are too strong for the boat. Old turning blocks, padeyes, sheaves and cam cleats as well as genoa tracks and rope clutches are just not capable of handling the loads you can exert using high tech line.

Consider this – a half inch diameter Samson Tech-12 (12 Strand Technora) line has an average breaking load of 33,000 pounds.

You could lift your boat with it!

And if you get a young, strong, enthusiastic “gorilla” on a halyard winch, he could pull the headboard out of the sail, damage the sheave at the masthead or pull the turning block at the base of the mast out of the deck.

no knots allowed

Tests done by the magazine Practical Sailor and others show that if you tie any type of knot in a high-tech line, you can reduce the breaking strength of the line by up to 80%. With very slippery high tech line it is also possible to pull the knot through itself, and with an extra slippery line such as Yale Light it’s even possible to pull an eye splice out..

This is a very serious problem for the average sailor.

Here are the problems in a nutshell:

  • a bowline or other knot in a high tech line reduces the breaking strength by up to 80%
  • for jib sheets you must increase the line size to account for the reduced strength – more $$$$
  • an eye splice is required to attach a shackle to a halyard. Splices should be made by a professional
  • high tech line is very difficult to cut. Normal rigging knives and hot knives are almost useless
  • all turning blocks and sheaves must have a diameter of at least 8 times the line diameter
  • old sheaves, turning blocks and other hardware will probably not be strong enough for high tech line
  • high tech line can cost up to $10 per foot
  • splicing any of these high tech lines is not for the faint hearted!

a possible solution

Generally it’s much better to stay with the more traditional line for the running rigging of older boats.

In the US, Sampson, New England Ropes and Yale all make a double braid dacron line very suitable for almost all the running rigging on an older sailboat.

Sampson Ropes make a double braid dacron called XLS, New England Ropes make a similar product called Sta-Set and Yale Ropes product is called Vizzion. Marlow Ropes in the UK produce Marlowbraid.

These products sell from $1.00 to $2.50 per foot. You’ll need about 500 feet for an average 30 footer.

Any line that you have to handle such as jib sheets, halyards and mainsheet should be about half inch (12mm) diameter for a good grip, and jib sheets and mainsheets should be one of the “softer” feel products.

As I have done a fair amount of club racing, my personal preference would be to use any of the above products for everything except the halyards and then go for a lighter, low stretch, high tech product such as New England Ropes T-900 for the halyards and get the eye splices done professionally.

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Running Rigging on a Sailboat: Essential Components and Maintenance Tips

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 8, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

replace running rigging sailboat

Short answer running rigging on a sailboat:

Running rigging refers to the ropes and lines used for controlling the sails and other movable parts on a sailboat. It includes halyards, sheets, braces, and control lines. Properly rigged running rigging is essential for efficient sail handling and maneuvering of the boat.

Understanding Running Rigging on a Sailboat: How to Get Started

Title: Deciphering the Intricacies of Running Rigging on a Sailboat: An Enlightened Journey Begins!

Introduction: Ah, the allure of sailing! Picture yourself gracefully gliding across sun-kissed waters, propelled solely by the power of the wind . If you’re new to this mesmerizing world, it’s crucial to understand every aspect – including running rigging. Fear not, fellow adventurer! This comprehensive guide will unravel the mysteries surrounding running rigging and equip you with valuable knowledge to embark upon your own nautical odyssey.

1. The Foundations: What is Running Rigging? Running rigging encompasses all the ropes and lines aboard a sailboat that are used to control sails and their systems. Think of it as a symphony conductor guiding each instrument precisely when they are needed. Understanding its components requires delving into various key elements.

2. The Halyards: Hoisting Your Sails with Elegance Halyards form an integral part of running rigging by facilitating the raising and lowering of sails effortlessly. These vital maneuvering aids connect from the masthead down to specific positions where they secure each sail precisely at one end while granting sailors control at their opposite extremity.

3. Sheets & Controls: Directing Your Power Source Next up in our deconstruction are sheets and controls – essential components for controlling sails’ angles based on wind direction. By cunningly pulling or easing these lines, you can swiftly adjust your sails’ positioning according to weather shifts, resulting in optimal performance .

4. Cleats & Winches: From Taming Lines to Seizing Moments Even Hercules would yield to cleats and winches when taming robust ropes! Cleats serve as steadfast anchors onto which lines can be temporarily secured, providing necessary stability during navigation’s turbulent moments. Winches, on the other hand, offer mechanical assistance by efficiently winding or unwinding lines using a drum mechanism – a sailor’s secret weapon for effortlessly controlling lines under high tension.

5. Blocks & Pulleys: The Silent Workhorses Up Above Blocks and pulleys, hidden amongst the chaos of running rigging, serve as silent heroes deserving recognition. These nifty devices allow lines to redirect their path efficiently, minimizing friction while maximizing mechanical advantage. Imagine them as your trusty allies, ensuring smooth adjustments without burdening you with unnecessary strain.

6. Mainsail Furling Systems: Embracing Elegance in Simplicity To master running rigging effectively, one must grasp the concept of mainsail furling systems. These mechanisms enable swift and straightforward reefing or unfurling of the mainsail using dedicated ropes or electrically-powered systems. By harnessing this technology correctly, you’ll unlock newfound ease in sailing endeavors.

Conclusion: Congratulations! You’ve delved into the intricate world of running rigging on a sailboat and emerged more enlightened than ever before. As you embark upon your maritime journey armed with this invaluable knowledge, remember that practice leads to mastery. Understanding how these distinct elements harmonize will transform you into a maestro, skillfully orchestrating every aspect of your sailing adventure with grace and finesse. Bon voyage!

A Step-by-Step Guide to Setting Up Running Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Sailing with Confidence: A Masterclass on Setting Up Running Rigging

Introduction:

Embarking on the open sea , feeling the wind against your face as you glide through the water, there’s no greater thrill than sailing. However, to truly harness the power of the wind and have a seamless experience, it is essential to understand how to set up your running rigging. In this comprehensive guide, we will take you through each step of this crucial process, equipping you with the knowledge and confidence necessary for smooth sailing adventures.

1. Assessing Your Needs: The Foundation for Success

Before diving into the nitty-gritty details of setting up your running rigging, it’s important to assess your specific needs according to your sailboat’s design and intended use. Factors such as boat size, mast height, and sail types play a significant role in determining which rigging configurations will work best for you.

2. Selecting Materials: Optimal Performance, Durability & Safety

Choosing suitable materials for running rigging is paramount to ensure reliable performance while maintaining the safety of both crew and vessel. From strong yet lightweight synthetic fibers like Dyneema or Spectra to traditional options such as polyester or nylon, understanding their properties and appropriate applications is essential in making informed decisions.

3. Understanding Key Terminology: Speaking Sailors’ Language

Like any specialized field, sailing has its own set of terminology that can feel overwhelming at first. Fear not! We’ll guide you through key terms such as halyards (hoisting lines), sheets (lines controlling sails), reefing lines (to reduce sail area), allowing you to converse confidently with fellow sailors.

4. Anchoring Your Mast: Secure Your Foundation

The process begins by firmly anchoring your mast at its base using a fitting called a mast step or deck collar. This immovable foundation provides stability throughout various sailing conditions while reducing unnecessary strain on all related rigging components .

5. Hoisting the Sails: Halyards & Their Art

To set sail, a crucial step involves hoisting your sails with precision. Correctly attaching halyards to the designated points on the mast and sail, while ensuring proper tension and alignment, will enable you to control raising, lowering, and reefing the sails with ease—an art form in itself.

6. Harnessing the Wind’s Power: Sheets & Trimming

Once your sails are aloft, skillful manipulation of sheets becomes paramount. Understanding how to trim them properly allows you to harness the wind’s power effectively while achieving maximum speed and maneuverability—a true dance between sailor and nature.

7. Streamlining Movement: Fairleads & Blocks

Efficiency is key when it comes to running rigging. By employing fairleads (pulleys) strategically placed around your vessel and appropriately using blocks (pulley combinations), you can minimize friction within your system, allowing for fluid movement with less effort during sail adjustments.

8. Reducing Sail Area: Reefing Lines at the Ready

As conditions change or storms approach, being able to reduce sail area swiftly is essential for safety purposes. Learning how to utilize reefing lines effectively enables you to adapt your sails according to environmental demands without sacrificing control or stability.

9. Fine-Tuning Your Set-Up: Tension & Balance

The final touch lies in adjusting tension throughout your running rigging system to achieve optimal balance and performance. Maintaining proper tension prevents undesirable effects like excessive wrinkles on sails or slack lines that compromise efficiency—fine-tuning that separates amateurs from seasoned sailors.

10. Everyday Maintenance: Caring For Your Rigging

Just as a well-maintained engine ensures peak performance, regularly caring for your running rigging also guarantees smooth operation over time. Simple tasks such as rinsing off saltwater residue or inspecting for wear and tear go a long way in prolonging the life of your rigging and ensuring a safe voyage.

Conclusion:

With this step-by-step guide, you are now equipped with the knowledge needed to set up running rigging on your sailboat like a seasoned sailor. By understanding the essential components, choosing suitable materials, and mastering the techniques necessary for trimming and maintenance, you’ll confidently navigate the open seas while experiencing the true joy of sailing . Bon voyage!

Frequently Asked Questions about Running Rigging on a Sailboat Demystified

Welcome to the world of sailing! If you’re a beginner or even if you’ve been sailing for a while, running rigging can often seem like a complex and confusing topic. But fear not! In this blog post, we are here to demystify all your frequently asked questions about running rigging on a sailboat.

Q: What is running rigging? A: Running rigging refers to all the lines and ropes that control and adjust the sails on a sailboat. It includes halyards, sheets, reefing lines, downhauls, and any other line used to set or trim sails .

Q: Why is running rigging important? A: Running rigging plays a crucial role in controlling the shape and position of the sails, allowing the boat to harness wind power efficiently . Properly adjusted running rigging enables better sail control, improved performance, and increased safety on board.

Q: How many types of running rigging are there? A: There are several types of running rigging found on most sailboats. Some common ones are halyards (used to lift or lower the sails), sheets (used to control the tension and angle of the sails), outhauls (used to adjust the foot of the mainsail), furling lines (used for rolling up or unfurling headsails), and vang systems (used for controlling boom height).

Q: What materials are used in running rigging? A: Traditionally, natural fibers like hemp or manila were used for ropes. However, modern sailboats mostly use synthetic fibers such as polyester or Dyneema due to their durability, low stretching properties, and resistance to UV degradation.

Q: How do I choose the right running rigging for my boat? A: The choice of running rigging depends on various factors such as boat size/type, sailing conditions, intended use, personal preference, and budget. It’s always advisable to consult with a reputable rigging professional who can assess your specific requirements and recommend the appropriate type and diameter of ropes for your boat .

Q: How often should I replace my running rigging? A: The lifespan of running rigging depends on various factors including usage, exposure to sunlight, and regular maintenance. As a general rule of thumb, inspect your running rigging regularly for signs of wear and tear. If you notice any fraying, excessive stretching, or damage, it’s essential to replace the affected lines promptly.

Q: Can I maintain my own running rigging? A: Yes! Regular maintenance is key to prolonging the life of your running rigging. Simple tasks like washing with fresh water after use, removing dirt or salt residue, and storing the lines properly can significantly extend their lifespan. However, if you’re unsure about any specific maintenance tasks or need assistance with more complex issues, it’s best to seek advice from a professional rigger.

Q: Are there any advanced techniques related to running rigging? A: Absolutely! Advanced sailing techniques often involve various adjustments using different lines simultaneously. For example, using barberhaulers to control genoa sheeting angles or implementing cunningham systems for mainsail shape adjustments. These techniques require practice and knowledge but can greatly enhance sail efficiency and boat performance.

Now that we’ve demystified some frequently asked questions about running rigging on a sailboat, we hope you feel more confident in understanding this vital aspect of sailing. Remember that every boat is unique, so investing time in learning about and maintaining your specific running rigging system will undoubtedly pay off in smoother sailing experiences ahead!

Choosing the Right Materials for Your Sailboat’s Running Rigging

When it comes to your sailboat’s running rigging, choosing the right materials can make all the difference in ensuring optimal performance and longevity. But with a plethora of options available, it can be a daunting task. Fear not, for we are here to guide you through this decision-making process, providing you with a detailed professional, witty and clever explanation.

First and foremost, let’s clarify what we mean by “running rigging.” In sailing terms, this refers to all the lines (ropes) used to control the sails and their adjustments while underway. These lines include halyards (used for raising and lowering the sails), sheets (controls the angle and trim of the sails), and various other control lines like reefing lines or vang lines. Each requires specific characteristics based on its purpose.

When considering materials for running rigging, durability is paramount. You want something that can withstand constant exposure to UV rays, saltwater, friction wear, and general wear and tear. One material that stands out in terms of resilience is Dyneema®. This high-performance synthetic fiber boasts an incredible strength-to-weight ratio similar to steel but without the weight or corrosion concerns. Paired with excellent resistance to UV degradation and abrasion resistance properties, Dyneema® offers a long-lasting solution for your running rigging needs.

But hold on! While Dyneema® may seem like an obvious choice, there are other factors to consider as well. For instance, ease of handling plays a significant role in determining which material is right for you. Some sailors prefer traditional materials like polyester or nylon due to their familiar feel and ease of tying knots. However, these materials tend to stretch more under load compared to Dyneema®, which can affect sail shape and overall performance .

To address this issue without compromising on durability or ease of handling completely, manufacturers have developed hybrid rope constructions where different fibers are combined strategically within a single line. For example, a Dyneema® core can be paired with a polyester or Technora cover, harnessing the best of both worlds. This combination provides the strength and low stretch characteristics of Dyneema® while maintaining that traditional feel when handling.

Now, let’s sprinkle in some wit and cleverness as we delve into the importance of reliability. When out on the open seas, you don’t want to be caught off guard by a line failure because you chose an unreliable material. Imagine your excitement as the wind picks up, preparing for an exhilarating sail, only to have your sailing dreams dashed due to a snapped halyard! Trust me; it’s not an experience you’ll find amusing, nor will your crew appreciate your comedic skills at such moments. So, don’t skimp on quality.

To ensure reliability and avoid any unplanned comedy acts on board, investing in well-respected brands known for their commitment to excellence is key. Reputable manufacturers like New England Ropes or Marlow Ropes are popular choices among sailors worldwide. Their rigorous testing processes and innovative designs guarantee performance reliability no matter what Mother Nature throws your way.

We hope this detailed professional, witty and clever explanation has shed some light on choosing the right materials for your sailboat’s running rigging. Remember to consider durability, ease of handling, and reliability when making your decision. And if you’re still unsure or need further assistance—don’t hesitate to reach out to fellow sailors or consult with professionals who can offer personalized advice tailored to your unique sailing style. Happy rigging!

Essential Tips for Properly Maintaining and Inspecting Running Rigging on a Sailboat

As any experienced sailor knows, properly maintaining and inspecting the running rigging on a sailboat is crucial for optimal performance and safety on the water. The running rigging refers to all the lines or ropes that control the sails, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Neglecting this essential aspect of sailboat ownership can lead to inefficiencies in sailing, potential equipment failures, or even dangerous situations while out at sea. So, whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting out, here are some essential tips to keep your running rigging in top shape.

1. Regular Inspection: The first step in proper maintenance is conducting regular inspections of your running rigging. Look for signs of wear and tear such as fraying, chafing, or any weakening spots in the ropes. Pay close attention to areas where lines are frequently under tension or make contact with other hardware, as these are typically high-stress areas prone to damage.

2. Cleaning: It’s vital to keep your running rigging clean and free from contaminants like dirt, saltwater residue, or mildew buildup that can affect their performance over time. Use a mild soap and water solution along with a soft brush to scrub away any grime.

3. Protect from UV Damage: Exposure to sunlight can accelerate the wear and degradation of your ropes due to UV radiation. Consider covering them with protective sleeves or using UV-resistant coatings specifically designed for sailing applications.

4. Lubrication: Keeping your running rigging well-lubricated ensures smooth operation and prolongs their lifespan. Apply a suitable marine-grade lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts like pulleys and cleats but be cautious not to apply excessive amounts that could attract dirt or create messy situations.

5. Check Fittings & Hardware: A comprehensive inspection should include examining all fittings and hardware associated with your running rigging – blocks, shackles, cam cleats – to ensure they are in proper working order. Tighten any loose fittings and replace any worn or damaged hardware promptly.

6. Replace Worn-out Lines: As with anything made of rope, running rigging will eventually reach the end of its serviceable life. Don’t wait for lines to fail before replacing them. Look out for signs like significant diameter reduction, loss of flexibility, or extensive wear and tear. Replacing worn-out lines early can save you from potential accidents or interruptions during your sailing adventures .

7. Proper Storage: When not in use, it’s essential to store your running rigging properly to avoid unnecessary damage or deterioration. Coil the lines neatly and hang them in a cool, dry place where they are protected from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.

By following these essential tips for maintaining and inspecting your sailboat’s running rigging, you’ll be able to enjoy smooth sailing while ensuring your safety out on the water. Regular inspections, cleaning, UV protection, lubrication, checking fittings and hardware, timely replacements when necessary, and proper storage – all these factors contribute to keeping your running rigging in top shape for optimal performance on every voyage.

Remember that sailboat ownership is an ongoing learning process – stay curious and educate yourself further through reputable sources such as books or online forums dedicated to sailing techniques and equipment maintenance. Happy sailing!

Upgrading Your Sailboat’s Running Rigging: What You Need to Know

When it comes to sailing, few things are as important as the running rigging of your sailboat. From controlling your sails to maneuvering through tricky waters, the quality and functionality of your running rigging can make all the difference in your sailing experience. In this blog post, we will explore everything you need to know about upgrading your sailboat’s running rigging.

Why Upgrade?

Before diving into the details of upgrading your running rigging, let’s discuss why it is necessary in the first place. Over time, the wear and tear on a sailboat’s running rigging can lead to compromised performance and safety concerns. As such, periodic upgrades become essential to ensure optimal functionality and reliability on the water .

Choosing Material

One of the most critical decisions when upgrading your running rigging is choosing the right material. Traditionally, sailboats have used materials like polyester or Dacron for their ropes. While these options are cost-effective and suitable for casual sailors, advanced materials like Dyneema or Spectra offer superior strength-to-weight ratio and lower stretch capabilities.

Furthermore, these modern fibers provide exceptional durability against UV degradation and abrasion resistance – perfect for longer ocean passages or demanding racing environments. Investing in high-quality lines may be more expensive upfront but pays off by enhancing both safety and performance while extending the overall lifespan of your rigging system.

Understanding Line Construction

Now that we’ve covered material options let’s move onto line construction. When choosing new lines for your running rigging upgrade, understanding their construction plays a vital role in achieving desired results.

Double braid construction is one popular option known for its balance between stretch resistance and knotability. It consists of a core surrounded by a braided outer cover – providing both strength and flexibility when handling heavier loads.

Alternatively, single braid construction offers improved flexibility by using only one continuous rope with a braided or twisted cover. This design is perfect for smaller sailboats, giving you lighter and more manageable lines while sacrificing some load-bearing capacity.

Finding the Perfect Fit

Upgrading your running rigging goes beyond simply replacing old lines with new ones; finding the perfect fit for your specific needs is crucial. Before making any purchases, take time to assess how you use your sailboat and what characteristics matter most to you.

Consider factors like line diameter, breaking strength, elongation under load, and grip comfort when evaluating potential options. While durability is essential, striking the right balance between strength and weight can significantly enhance your sailing experience .

Installation 101

Now that you’ve selected the ideal running rigging components let’s talk about installation. Proper installation ensures optimal functionality and reduces potential snags or accidents on the water.

Start by studying your sailboat’s existing rigging setup and create a detailed plan to avoid confusion during installation. If possible, consult with experts or refer to manufacturer guidelines for best practices.

Lastly, pay careful attention to tensioning techniques when installing your new lines – correct tension prevents slack that may hinder overall performance during navigation.

Maintaining Your Upgrade

Once completed, maintaining your newly upgraded running rigging becomes an essential part of owning a sailboat. Regular inspection of ropes for wear and tear is necessary since even high-quality materials require upkeep.

Additionally, proper storage away from UV rays and harsh weather conditions can further extend the life of your upgraded running rigging. By following maintenance guidelines provided by manufacturers and incorporating routine checks in pre-sail preparations, you can ensure continued reliability throughout every journey.

Upgrading your sailboat’s running rigging is a worthwhile investment that guarantees enhanced safety and performance while providing endless possibilities on the water. Choosing suitable materials based on usage patterns, understanding line construction principles, finding the perfect fit for specific needs, meticulous installation processes, and regular maintenance are key elements in achieving desired results.

So, take the plunge and upgrade your running rigging today – it’s time to elevate your sailing experience to new heights!

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Simple Ways to Optimize Running Rigging

  • By Erik Shampain
  • December 6, 2022

It’s easy to underestimate the benefits of good running rigging. There are many rope products on the market, and there is a time and a place for most of them. Let’s take a look at lines that need the most attention and why, as well as basic rules for using low-stretch line, using lightweight or tapered line where most beneficial and using rope that is easy to work with.

Let’s start up front with the headsail halyard. Luff tension greatly affects shape and thus performance of the jib or genoa, so having a halyard that is as low-stretch as possible is paramount.  Saving a little weight aloft is also key, so find a lightweight rope as well. It’s a little against the norm, but for club racing boats that aren’t tapering their halyards, I really like some of the Vectran-cored ropes. Products like Samson’s Validator and New England Ropes V-100 are easy on the hands and easy to splice.  For a little more grand-prixed tapered halyard, talk to our local rigger about using a DUX core, or other heat-set Dyneema, with a Technora-based cover. Lately, I’ve been using a lot of Marlow’s D12 MAX 78 and 99. Tapering the halyard saves weight aloft as well. I like soft shackles for jib halyards. There, weight savings aloft generally outweighs the little extra time a bowman needs to attach the sail. This is especially true in sprit boats where the jib is rarely removed from the headstay. 

Pro Tip: When not racing, use a halyard leader to pull the halyards to the top of the mast, getting the tapered section out of the sun. For extra protection, put all the halyard tails into an old duffle bag at the base of the mast when not in use.

For jib sheets, I follow the same low-stretch rule as the jib halyard. I don’t want the jib sheet to stretch at all when a puff hits. On boats with overlapping genoas, I don’t generally recommend tapering the line because by the time the genoa is trimmed all the way in, the clew is really close to the block. On boats with non-overlapping jibs, tapering is an easy way to save a little weigh.  Plus, the smaller core size runs through across the boat more easily in tacks. I’ve been using soft shackles on the jib or genoa sheets for a while now, mostly because they don’t beat the mast up during tacks. There also a bit “softer” when they hit you. 

What about jib lead adjusters? There are a couple of approaches here. Some believe a little stretch is okay, as it allows the lead to rock aft a couple of millimeters in puffs, which twists the top of the jib off slightly. This can be fast as it helps the boat transition through puffs and lulls. I am a fan of this as long as it isn’t too stretchy. I use low-stretch Dyneema for the gross part of the purchase and then a friendlier-on-the-hands rope for the fine tune side, the part that is being handled.  Samson Warpspeed or New England Enduro Braid work well.

Spinnaker sheets are a fun one. They should be relatively low-stretch but not necessarily the lowest stretch. I’ve found that near-zero stretch lines can wreak havoc on people and hardware when flogging or when the chute is collapsing. They have to be easy on the hands, as they are the most moved sheets on the boat, and they should be tapered as far as you can get away with. Tapering saves weigh, which is very important in keeping the spinnaker clew lifting up, especially in light air when sails want to droop. Again, Samson Warpseed and New England Enduro braid are good. For boats with grinders or even small boats with no winches, a cover that is a little grippier or stronger is good. Most Technora-based covers work well for this purpose.

Pro Tip No. 2: On boats with asymmetric spinnakers I like to connect the ‘Y’ sheet with a soft shackle that also goes to the spinnaker. This saves weight. I sew a Velcro strip around one part of the shackle (see picture) so that the soft shackle stays with the ‘Y’ sheet when open. This is beneficial when you have to quickly disconnect or re-run a sheet, replace one sheet, or even quickly replace a soft shackle. On most boats I will keep one spare spinnaker sheet with soft shackle down below as a spare side, changing sheet, or code zero sheet. On boats with a symmetric spinnaker, we’ll splice the spinnaker sheet to the afterguy shackle to save weight in the clew.

The spinnaker halyard has a couple of more options. For halyards supporting code zeros, zero stretch is important. The same principals we used when talking about the jib halyard apply here. For boats without code zeros, I like a little softer halyard with a touch of give. Those tend to run though sheaves better without kinking. Enduro and Warpseed are good for these applications. Most bowmen prefer a shackle that is quick and easy to open. Since a happy bowman is a good thing, I will generally use an appropriately sized Tylaska shackle or dogbone style shackle for those halyards

For symmetric spinnaker boats, the afterguy must be very low stretch line. I go back to products like covered Vectran for club-level sheets. I also find that afterguys generally last longer if I don’t taper them.  When the pole is squared back, the afterguys often run pretty hard across the lifelines, producing a fair amount of chafe. Covered lines help minimize that. 

For tack lines on asymmetric boats, I like matching spinnaker halyard material on club-level boats and using low-stretch heat-set Dyneema cores with a chafe resistant cover for grand prix and sportboats.

Like the headsail halyard, a near-zero stretch main halyard is also important. For me the same line applications apply. Keep the mainsail head at full hoist at all costs. I will often match the material I use for main and jib halyards.

It is most important that the main sheet sit in the winch jaws well and tail perfectly. This is a strict combination of sizing and pliability. I’ve found that the New England Ropes Enduro braid and the Samson Warpspeed II work well for club-level boats with and without winches. For a slightly longer lasting product with some chafe resistance, try any manufacturer’s Technora-based covered line.

The most under-appreciated and least thought about rope on a boat always seems to be the outhaul. The last thing you want when the wind comes up is for your mainsail to get fuller. Spend some time here and use very low-stretch rope. Most heat-set Dyneemas will work great for the gross tune side of the purchase.

Pro Tip No. 3: Minimizing the last purchase of an outhaul greatly increases the ease with which it can be pulled on or eased out. For example, you could have a 6-to-1 to one pulling a 2-to-1, pulling a 2-to-1 and then to the sail for a 24-to-1. Or, better yet, you could have a 4-to-1 pulling a 3-to-1, pulling a 2-to-1 for a 24-to-1 as well. The latter example will work better. Trust me. I’m a doctor . . . sort of. We built an outhaul like this on a SC50. I can pull it on upwind in heavy air with little problem. On the flip side, in light air downwind, it eases just as well.   In fact, if memory serves me right, we did a 3-to-1 in the end rather than the 4-to-1 for a total of 18-to-1 and it worked well.

Runners and backstays should have extremely low stretch. A pumping mast and sagging forestay in breeze isn’t fast. Runner tails, like the mainsheet, should perfectly fit the winch and tail easily without kinking.

With so many options readily on the market now, it can be very confusing. I always recommend contacting your local rigger if you have any questions at all about what rope is right for you. They’ll get you pulling in the right direction.

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Replacing Your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on november 27, 2018.

Question – When should I replace my standing rigging?

From the Rigger – According to industry standards, the anticipated lifespan for stainless steel rigging is 10-12 years for wire and 15-20 years for rod. Of course, a number of factors affect a rig’s lifespan including load, sailing conditions, mileage sailed, age, fatigue from cyclic loading, environmental influences such as salinity and contamination, and frequency of care and maintenance. Many people believe that only heavily used rigging needs to be replaced, but the continuous flexing of loose wire that is not under load can take a serious toll as well. The flogging of a loose shroud can actually be harder on wire than steady pressure.

Unfortunately, there are not always visual clues that your rigging has passed its life expectancy. Things to look for include corrosion, pitting, cracks, and broken strands or “meat hooks” on the wire. Rust and discoloration can indicate the location of a crack or crystallization of the metal. Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion.

The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded mast bases, hardware that is stripped on the mast, frozen pins, chainplates that are failing, etc.). A rig inspection beforehand can minimize surprises.  And word of warning… jobs often get expensive because the customer decides, once the mast is down, to add furlers, masthead units, new sheets and halyards, etc. These additions add up quickly and affect the cost of parts, labor, special order shipping, taxes, etc. We are happy to accommodate your requests, but the cost of your job will escalate quickly.

Although we work closely with the boatyard during the job, you will need to negotiate yard fees (crane, mast lay days, etc.) directly with the yard of your choice. They are not included in our estimate. Driscoll Boat Works and Shelter Island Boat Yard are both within walking distance of Rigworks. Assuming it fits in our racks and we have room, we may be able to avoid mast lay day charges by storing your mast here at Rigworks.

As a quick side note… people often ask if they should switch from rod to wire rigging or vice versa during the re-rig (usually from rod to wire as rod is much more expensive per foot). Be aware that this is not a simple conversion and can be quite expensive. The terminations for wire vs. rod can be quite different and require a lot of customization.

Want to prolong the lifespan of your rigging? Here are a few suggestions…

Maintain your standing rigging! Like your car, your sailboat needs TLC. Perform routine cleaning/polishing to remove corrosives, identify chafe points and other damage, and properly tune your standing rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay). Stainless does not like to be deprived of oxygen, so keep tape off your rigging to avoid anaerobic corrosion. For more information on rig maintenance, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/maintaining-your-standing-rigging/ and download our rig-care pamphlet at https://rigworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Standing-Rigging-Care.pdf .

Get regular rig inspections! This is a very inexpensive investment (by yachting standards ) to ensure that your rig is in sound condition. Why not schedule annual service as you would with a car? Let us go over your rig from top to bottom and end to end to identify trouble before it gets worse. For more information on rig inspections, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/the-scoop-on-rig-inspections/ . Our riggers can also tune your rig, either at the dock or under sail. Not only will your rig last longer when properly tuned, your boat will sail better, and who doesn’t love that!

Consider pulling your rig every 5-6 years to inspect the mast base, chainplates, turnbuckles, wire, etc. This is considerably less expensive than a full re-rig and, again, may identify issues before they become catastrophic.

And PLEASE do not buy a used boat without a professional rig inspection! We have had many customers who have found a ‘great deal’ on a used boat only to discover that they need to spend a small fortune on new rigging. A boat with bad rigging is at best a pain in the #@$ and at worst a lethal weapon. There is nothing more expensive than a “cheap” boat!

A customer came into our shop the other day to discuss his 33-year old rigging. He said it looked fine. He asked “Isn’t the industry standard just a ploy by manufacturers to sell more wire”. Since we also stand to gain when you replace your rigging, let us say that many insurance companies will not insure sailboats with aged rigging. This should be a warning. If they are not willing to take the financial risk, are you willing to risk yourself and your crew?

Finally, should you decide to sail with that old rigging, consider checking out the ‘Ask the Rigger’ article titled “Rigs Fail… Are You Ready?” at https://rigworks.com/rigs-fail-ready/ .

Safe Sailing!

Rigging 3

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Question: My halyard is binding. What’s up? From the Rigger: Most boat owners do not climb their masts regularly, but our riggers spend a lot of time up there. And they often find badly damaged Read more…

replace running rigging sailboat

Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me? From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’… Forestay (1 or HS) – Read more…

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Selecting Rope – Length, Diameter, Type

Question: Do you have guidelines for selecting halyards, sheets, etc. for my sailboat? From the Rigger:  First, if your old rope served its purpose but needs replacing, we recommend duplicating it as closely as possible Read more…

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Running Rigging for Cruising Sailors

  • By Bruce Bingham
  • Updated: October 15, 2020

During my 75 years of sailing, I’ve become aware of the chasm between cruisers and racers. But I’ve never understood it because I have always been both. Even when I cruise, I’m racing—against changing weather, the need to get home in time for dinner, whatever. What that really means is that I’m determined to get the most speed out of my boat at all times. And to do so means having excellent running-rigging systems.

There are three issues in play when deciding on whether to install or upgrade your running rigging. First, do you want to increase your ease and convenience when adjusting sail trim? Second, are you willing to add lengths of line (as well as lengths of time) to make sail-trim adjustments? And last, how much investment are you willing to make to reach your sail-handling (i.e., running-rigging) goals?

I can scratch only the surface of this complicated topic and not present a ­comprehensive guide to all systems and conditions. Hopefully I’ll encourage you to think of how you might be able to improve your systems to make your sailing better and more satisfying.

Let’s begin by looking at sail-trim adjustments, which encompasses many items: sail curve (or draft, also called cord), luff tension, foot tension, sail twist from head to foot, and attack angle (the angle of wind as it approaches the sail’s leading edge, or luff).

On racing boats, all of the power required to make these adjustments is enhanced with more-powerful winches, larger crews, expensive low-friction blocks, and extremely strong and flexible lines. All of the running-rigging systems on racing boats are also appropriate for cruising boats, but cost often plays a deciding factor when making hardware and arrangement choices.

Increasing the power of running-rigging systems will always cost more, but it will also result in ease of handling and efficiency of controlling mainsail and headsail trim. Let’s move on, focusing first on the main.

Main Outhaul

Mainsail draft (depth of the sail’s curve) is controlled primarily by the outhaul but also may be supplemented by halyard tension and mast bend. So, let’s concentrate on the outhaul if for no other reason than its ease of use, as long as it is easily adjustable and also conveniently reachable. Unfortunately, most outhauls that I see on cruising boats are not adjustable and are usually a bundle of knots, difficult to reach when under sail, and almost impossible to untie without a marlinspike or fid. So let’s fix this first.

The mainsail outhaul on my Cape Dory 28 Nikki ’s boom end is a 2-to-1 tackle with its hauling end attached to another 2-to-1 tackle, also called a cascade or Burton. In light air, when sailing to weather, the draft of the main can be flattened by taking in on the 2-to-1 part of the tackle. In strong breezes, flattening the mainsail’s draft is easily done by hauling in on the Burton only, a total power ratio of 4-to-1. Both of the outhaul tackles have their own clam cleats mounted on the side of the boom.

I don’t ­recommend mast bending to most cruisers because its proper application depends largely on the boat owner’s knowledge of the nature and dimensions of the curve built into the sail by the sailmaker. In a nutshell, though, when sailing to weather, mast bend will flatten the luff of the sail. When sailing off the wind or in light air, a straight mast will increase the curve or draft of the sail for better drive.

If your halyards are only general-purpose Dacron line (like those used for dock lines and sheets), as you tighten them, they will stretch and have little to no effect on sail shape with increased wind. Keep in mind that as windspeed increases, the draft of your sails will also increase, causing a greater heeling moment. The increased draft will also cause the sail luff to become fuller and reduce the ability to point upwind.

I really like limited-stretch and no-stretch halyards. They help reduce the sail draft near the luff from increasing when the wind builds. Limited-stretch halyards won’t stretch markedly when tightened in order to flatten the sail luffs. No-stretch or limited-stretch halyards might sound racy and will cost more, but the payoff is better performance, especially in strong winds. Good halyards are an easy fix that pay big dividends.

Cunninghams and Downhauls

Cunninghams and downhauls are essentially the same thing: Their function is to provide tension adjustment to the lower portion of the luff of a sail. A Cunningham, however, is more associated with the mainsail; downhauls are ­generally used with a headsail or staysail.

The purpose of Cunninghams and downhauls is to provide a rapid and convenient method of changing and distributing the tightness of a sail luff from tack to head, primarily on sails whose luff is in a mast slot, aluminum furling extrusion or attached to a stay with piston hanks; all of which cause friction that resists the luff from equalizing its load along its length. Since the halyard pulls upward from the top and the Cunningham pulls downward from slightly above the tack, the load in both directions equalizes the tension of the sail’s luff.

When you hoist a ­mainsail, there will often be about twice the tension on the luff above the spreaders than between the spreaders and the gooseneck. The load on the Cunningham is used to increase the lower luff tension. So, instead of cranking the halyard so tight that the winch is nearly torn off the mast or cabin top, raise the sail only until you begin to feel the luff load up, then tighten up the Cunningham until it feels about the same as the halyard. That’s the way your mainsail was designed and made, with about equal tension along the full length of the luff.

The cordage used as a downhaul or tack attachment for staysails and headsails, ­including those with roller-­furling systems, should be set up as tackles that are adjustable under sail. The cord should be long enough to set up a 4-to-1 tackle, and cleated or tied so that rapid luff tension can be adjusted ­without a hassle, whether slacking off in light air or tightening in a heavier breeze.

Gaining Mechanical Advantage

When I bought my schooner, At Last , back in the mid-’70s, she had lots of line and blocks but not a single winch. I think that most of her previous sailing had been done by a crew of six or a smaller crew made up of 300-pound gorillas. At that time, I weighed only 135 pounds, and my partner, Katy, was about 15 pounds lighter. Neither of us were what you would call “husky.”

Sailing At Last in light air was not difficult, but when it blew over 8 knots, every evolution became quite physical. We learned the first rule of manpower pretty quickly: The more line we pulled to achieve any sail adjustment (main or foresail sheet trimming, gaff hoisting, etc.), the more power was developed and less personal exertion was required.

Yes, eventually we did install sheet winches for each of the headsail sheets, but not for the main or foresail halyards or sheets, outhauls, vangs or topping lifts. For those, we added blocks and line to each system. It was like multiplying our crew. Every sail-trim maneuver became markedly easier—but slower. So, if we at least doubled the line length by adding sheaves, we also multiplied the power by the same ratio (not deducting for friction) and reduced the ­hauling load by the same ratio.

The rule of tackles is straightforward: The number of moving parts equals the mechanical advantage (power ratio). Google “block and tackle mechanical advantages,” and you will find excellent graphic diagrams with their power ratios.

Leading Systems to the Cockpit

More and more boat owners want every sail-control line led to the cockpit. This invariably requires at least three additional blocks or sheaves to be added to most ­running-­rigging systems, thus increasing friction as well as adding lots of line (I call it “spaghetti”) in or near the cockpit. In the case of reefing, leading all lines to the cockpit actually makes most reefing much more ­difficult and inefficient.

In 2009, my 28-foot Nikki won the Florida West Coast Boat of the Year award in a long series of races over several months’ time. Most wins occurred in extremely high winds because we had practiced reefing in under 45 seconds. That had become possible largely because of deftly efficient tackles, all kept within a single person’s reach. Only the main sheet went to the cockpit and was usually handled by the helmsman.

Mainsheets and Travelers

Thirty years ago, virtually all mainsheets were attached to the aft end of the boom and to a multisheave block on a short and mostly inefficient traveler at the stern of the boat. Because of the position of the traveler, its angle of effectiveness was fairly narrow, so when far off the wind (beam and broad reaches and running), the amount of downforce on the boom became little to ­negligible, rendering the traveler useless.

A double-legged ­mainsheet never accomplished its intended goal of acting like a traveler. Such a mainsheet always vectors the load to the longitudinal center of the boat on all points of sail regardless how far apart the lower blocks are spread. It was the racers who came up with the idea of moving the mainsheet to the approximate middle of the boom and down to a longer track and adjustable car (the traveler), usually just forward of the main companionway hatch on the cabin top. With this arrangement, the mainsheet becomes the major controller of both boom angle as well as mainsail twist by its increased downforce on the boom and sail.

The traveler car should be controlled by a port and starboard tackle of at least 3-to-1 advantage for boats up to 24 feet, 4-to-1 for boats up to 30 feet, and 5- to 6-to-1 for boats up to 34 feet and beyond. I also recommend the use of cam or clam cleats for all traveler control lines.

Racing sailors also came up with the idea of a boom vang attached to the forward portion of the boom at the upper end, and to a bale at the base of the mast at the lower end. This is what you usually see on most sailboats today. That simple arrangement was a giant leap forward in the area of mainsail-twist control. But almost indiscernible additional improvement seemed to occur. Nowadays, most boom vangs aren’t all that efficient and ought to be brought into this century.

The first improvement should be to pull downward on the boom vang line in order to pull down the boom. However, I rarely see a vang rigged this way, which means it loses about half of its power ­advantage. Most vangs I see are pulled upward or aft to ­exert a download on the boom, thus losing more power.

A really practical boom vang should have at least a snap shackle on the lower block so it can be quickly detached from the mast base and moved to a car on the genoa track or a hole in a perforated aluminum toe rail. This will allow the boom vang to exert much more of a vertical download. The more vertical the vang, the more downforce on the boom. Another benefit to the detachable boom vang is that the lower block can be brought forward of the mast and attached to a stout deck-pad eye or perforated toe rail so the boom vang can also act as a preventer when sailing downwind.

Doubling the power of the boom vang can be accomplished simply and easily with a small investment by adding a 2-by-1 cascade (also, again, called a Burton), which is a single 7-by-7-foot or 7-by-37-foot stainless cable run though a wire block on the boom with one end shackled to the vang bale at the mast base. The other end of the wire is fashioned with an eye to which the upper end of the vang tackle is attached. So if your vang tackle is 5-to-1 and the cascade is 2-to-1, your vang will become 10-to-1. Then by moving the lower end of the vang from the mast to the toe-rail eye, a dedicated deck-pad eye or a genoa-track car, you have doubled it again, all for about $40.

The vang that I have ­described is most efficient when sailing long distances without jibing or tacking, but if you’re simply afternoon daysailing around the bay, the vang would be more conveniently left attached to the bale at the mast base.

I have never seen a rigid boom vang that was routinely adjusted while under sail; they’re really only a boom ­support system while under power or tied up to a dock.

Main Boom Topping Lift

I put the topping lift in the same underused category with the main outhaul; too often it’s a bundle of knots at the end of the boom that have not been adjusted or adjustable in decades.

A proper topping lift is meant to raise and store the boom off the Bimini when not in use. When under sail, however, its purpose is to adjust the weight of the boom so it changes the sail twist in various wind conditions and points of sail. It works in the opposite direction of a boom vang; it pulls the boom upward while the vang pulls downward. Upward increases sail twist, and downward reduces it.

A topping lift should also be used to take the weight of the boom off the mains’l leech when putting in a reef, then tightened again while shaking out the reef. The topping lift should be adjustable on any point of sail, which translates into “reachable.” Also, lifting your outboard from your ­dinghy becomes a simple matter by using your boom vang tackle attached to the end of the boom, and “topping” the boom with the topping lift so the outboard can clear the aft pulpit and lifelines.

Backstay Adjusters

These are used to apply tension to the backstay, which is transferred to the headstay for the purpose of flattening the luff of the headsail…or slacking the backstay, thus also easing the headstay to add more draft to the jib or genoa, as would be desirable when off the wind. When closehauled and/or sailing in a stiff breeze, a flattened headsail is preferred to lessen the boat’s heeling moment and to allow the boat to point up a little closer to the wind. With a backstay adjuster, this can be done in a few seconds with an adequate tackle arrangement.

Adjusting a headstay is usually impossible while under sail with the headsail sheeted in tightly. There are special turnbuckles and hydraulic backstay adjusters that can be used while under sail, but they are not as rapid as the appropriate backstay tackle systems. When tightening the backstay, the mast is also slightly bent to help flatten the draft and remove the “cup” from the luff of the mainsail at the same time as the headsail. So double benefits are derived from one simple adjustment.

Making your boat perform better does not have to be, nor should it be, a lot of work. In reality, effective running-rigging systems will make sailing a lot less strenuous, as well as more enjoyable and rewarding. Your boat will look better and perform better, and teach you a lot about getting the most out of the wind while adding joy to your afternoons under the clouds.

Don’t avoid the possibilities. Embrace them.

Boat designer, builder, writer, illustrator and longtime CW contributor Bruce Bingham lives aboard his Cape Dory 28, Nikki , on Florida’s Gulf coast.

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Average Sailboat Maintenance Costs (with 4 Examples)

A lot of new boat owners overlook the maintenance costs of sailboats - and maintenance can get pricey quickly. To save you from surprises, here's a full overview of costs you can expect when owning a sailboat.

What is the average sailboat maintenance cost? The average annual maintenance cost of sailboats is between $2,000 - $3,000. However, larger boats of 30 feet and up will cost considerably more. The actual total annual cost is $3,000 to $7,000, due to other recurring costs like docking and insurance fees.

However, what you'll actually pay really depends on the type of boat you have and what you do with it. Not all maintenance is as important. If you're on a budget, you can maintain your boat reasonably well for just $1,000 / year. I'll explain how below.

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On this page:

Breakdown of yearly maintenance cost, different costs for four situations, seasonal maintenance, recurring longterm maintenance, incidental maintenance costs, other costs to keep in mind.

Let's start by getting a good overview of the different maintenance costs. Here's a full overview of all the recurring maintenance from most to least frequent. I'll explain each line item in detail later on.

The average maintenance cost will be roughly $255 dollars per month for boats under 30' or just under $3,000 per year.

As you can see, most of these costs are longterm recurring maintenance costs. Some of these might not apply to your situation. Also, there are a lot of costs you can save on substantially if you do simple maintenance yourself or have a simple boat. Let me explain.

The total maintenance cost varies a lot, depending on the following factors:

  • length of the boat
  • saltwater or freshwater use
  • racing, cruising, or liveaboard use
  • sail area and rig type of the boat

Still, we want a general feel of what to expect. That's why I've calculated the average maintenance costs for four different types of boat below:

Maintenance cost for four boat types:

Your specific maintenance cost will vary depending on what type of boat you have and how you'll use it. Below, I'll go over four different situations and explain what type of maintenance you'll most likely will and won't do, and what the price tag is for each situation.

24 ft Daytripper

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Most people starting out will get a smaller size boat and use it for day trips and weekend trips. These boats have less moving parts and less critical parts. It will be important to maintain a couple of parts, though:

  • seasonal maintenance

With a first boat, you most likely won't invest in new sails or the standing rigging if you don't have to.

The total maintenance cost for a small daytripper will average around $1,600 per year or $133 per month.

30 ft Budget Sailboat

What would be the maintenance cost if you were on a tight budget? Well, for starters, I'd recommend doing most small maintenance yourself and ignore all non-essential. On sailboats, however, there aren't a lot of non-essential parts. But here are some things we could do out to save some big bucks:

  • don't set aside money for long-term recurring maintenance (rigging, sails, hardware, and batteries)
  • don't outsource engine maintenance, instead do oil changes ourselves
  • antifoul less frequently (every 4 years)
  • budget DIY winterization

Winterizing your boat yourself can cost you as little as $50 for antifreeze and an oil change afterward.

The total maintenance cost on a tight budget can get as low as $275 per year, or $23 per month.

34 ft Liveaboard

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Liveaboards that don't really sail that much have less maintenance to do in one way, and more in another. The sails, rigging, and engine will be less critical if you won't take her out very often. Also, you'll have plenty of time doing odd jobs yourself, since you'll be living on the boat. On the other hand, it will be very important to maintain hull health, as even small leaks will lead to condensation and mold, which is horrible for your health and living standard.

Replacing electronics won't be very important - however, your batteries will need to be replaced more often.

Important maintenance:

  • hull cleaning and painting
  • replacing batteries

If you live on a boat in a location where it falls below freezing temperature (good luck!).

The total maintenance cost for a liveaboard will average around $1,550 per year or $129 per month.

40 ft Bluewater Cruiser

replace running rigging sailboat

If you own a bluewater cruiser, your maintenance cost will go up a lot. Saltwater is a lot more corrosive, and the stress on your rigging and sails will be higher. Sun wear and constant use will wear down the sails and rigging even more. Your engine will wear out faster, and you'll need more incidental repairs as well.

The interval of longterm maintenance will increase dramatically in these conditions.

On top of that, maintaining your boat properly is critical. In marine environments, everything can go wrong exactly one time for it to be critical.

You want a reliable boat, which means you'll fix anything that needs fixing immediately.

Your sail area will most likely also be larger, which means your sail replacement will be more expensive.

One advantage is that you might not need to winterize if you're a fulltime cruiser since you'll probably spend your winters in Bermuda.

The total maintenance cost for a bluewater cruiser will average around $3,225 per year or $269 per month.

There are three types of maintenance:

  • seasonal maintenance - yearly recurring jobs
  • long-term recurring maintenance
  • incidental maintenance

Let's go over each type and break down which costs to expect exactly.

Winterizing

Winterization is an often-overlooked cost, but it can be one of the largest expenses each year. If you're like me, and not so lucky to live in Florida, you need to winterize your boat.

Failing to winterize it will increase your maintenance cost over time, as the engine wears out more quickly, and your plumbing and equipment will fall apart. Winter storms and ice can damage the hull and mast as well. Learn all about the dangers of failing to winterize here .

It's the best way to protect your boat in wintertime, period.

It consists of two parts:

  • Winterizing - costs $500 to $1000 - This is the preparation for winter storage. You flush the cooling system with anti-freeze, and the boat gets wrapped in a shrink wrap cover.
  • Winter storage - costs $50 per ft on average
Here's the full winterizing checklist

For dry storage, part of the process can be to shrink wrap your boat. Now, this is expensive, and it is hard on the environment. Some boaters don't shrink wrap in the winter because of it.

Here's the average cost to shrink wrap a boat

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Antifouling

Your boat will need bottom paint roughly every 2 years (could be longer, but to be safe, let's keep it at two). It's also called antifouling paint because it helps to protect your hull from weeds, barnacles, and so on. Barnacles can slice through your boat's bellow! So you don't want them on there.

On average, it costs about $15 to $20 per foot to get your sailboat hull painted professionally.

For a 26' sailboat, that's just 500 bucks. Money well spent.

Read more on the cost of antifouling your boat

Batteries have a limited number of charge cycles. Deep cycle batteries (which are best for household functionality) need replacing every 4-6 years and will cost roughly $600. If you use your batteries extensively, they will most likely need replacing after 3-4 years, for example, for liveaboards or full-time cruisers.

Replacing the sails

Good quality cruising sails will need to be replaced every 10 years or so.

The cost of new sails is on average:

  • 26' Bermuda Sloop rig will cost you about $1,000 - $2,500.
  • 34' Bermuda Sloop rig will cost you about $3,000 - $5,000.
I won't go into detail, but I have written an in-depth article about the cost of new sails (opens in new tab). It's a really helpful post (with a formula) if you want to know what to expect.

Replacing the standing rigging

Most people that own a sailboat will have to replace the sails and rigging at least once in their lifetime. Replacing the mast is uncommon, but if you're unlucky and get demasted, it will need to be fixed. So I've added it to the "be aware this might happen" list - but won't add it to the monthly recurring costs.

Standing rigging are the cables that support the mast. Click here for a full walkthrough with diagrams.

If you need to replace the mast and boom, prepare to spend anywhere between $15,000 - $25,000.

The cost of replacing the standing rigging is, on average, $4,000 every 10 years.

Running rigging

The running rigging consists of all the lines, sheets, and so on that is used to haul and operate the sails. It wears with time due to UV exposure, flogging, strain from the wind, and regular use. In most cases, you'll only have to replace your running rigging every 5-10 years, but it will cost you $5,000 on average.

replace running rigging sailboat

Deck Hardware

Deck hardware consists of the bullseyes, tiller , eye straps, cleats , and so on. All this small hardware needs to be replaced every 20-30 years and will amount to about $1,500.

Engine & Engine Parts

Gas engines run for about 1,500 hours, diesel engines run for 5,000. After that, you'll need to change them out.

Most engines will last you about 20 years, depending on the amount of use and whether you use it properly. Gas engine will last a lot less long than diesels.

A standard 15HP or 20HP outboard gas engine will cost you about $5,000 - $6,000 and needs replacing every 20 years or so. If you do the work yourself, it's more something like $1,000 - $1,500.

Read more on the lifetime expectancy of marine diesels here

Replacing the engine

  • sailboats with inboard engine: $5,000 - $10,000
  • sailboats with outboard engine: $1,000 - $1,500
  • most powerboats (inboard engine): $15,000 - $35,000
  • small outboard engines (2-5 hp): $1,000 - $1,500
  • large outboard engines (100+ hp): $10,000+
  • installation cost: $200 - $2,000

Installation Prices

The installation of the engine will cost a few hundred to a couple of thousand dollars. With inboard engines, this is not something you can easily do yourself - it isn't just unscrewing a motor and screwing a new one in.

The deciding factor of how much will this cost exactly is whether you can simply bolt the new engine in or whether you have to adjust all other parts, including shaft logs, exhausts, electrics, and so on.

Of course, if you have an outboard engine the installation price will be nothing more than a few drops of sweat, swearing, and back pain for a day or two.

Read more on boat engine replacement costs here.

Risers and Manifolds

  • cost of 1 riser : $140 - $200
  • cost of 1 exhaust manifold: $150 - $300
  • cost of labor: $500 - $1,500

Most people need 2 risers + 2 exhaust manifolds. Parts total: $600 on average That's just what it is. Where you can really save some money, is on the labor. Labor total: $1,000 on average It's about a days worth of work. A professional needs roughly 8 hours to get the job done.

Read more about the cost of replacing risers and manifolds here.

Boat starter replacement

Inboard engine (and generator) starters cost from $40 - over $1,000 depending on the engine. Outboard starters run from about $100 - $500. Skilled marine technicians charge from $75 - $150 per hour. Your costs will range from a couple of hundred dollars for a small outboard up to over a thousand for a large or difficult to reach inboard.

That's a broad range, but if you know what you need for your boat, then you can get a better idea of the cost. The final price depends on two things - what type of engine you have, and how hard it is to get to the starter.

Read more on the average cost to replace a boat starter here.

Replacing safety equipment

USCG safety regulations require you to replace safety gear regularly.

  • Lifejackets have to be replaced every 10 years.
  • Flares have to be replaced every 42 months. You could consider buying a LED electric distress light instead, which will last you a lifetime.
  • If you carry a life-raft you'll need to replace that every 12 years as well.

Adhering to the minimum safety requirements shouldn't cost you more than 150 - 250 dollars every 5 years. But if you want the good stuff, need more fire extinguishers, plan on spending more like $600. If you want a life raft, that's another $1,500.

To avoid you have to go cheap on your safety gear, I've put it in the budget for $500.

If you want to know exactly what the USCG safety requirements are, including checklists , definitely check out my article here.
  • Hull repairs
  • Electronics update
  • Recovering a sunken boat
  • Sailboat mast replacement
  • Keel repairs
  • Rudder repairs
  • Replacing or refabricing boat cushions

One-time costs:

  • Registration : costs of registration differ per state, but usually run anywhere from $3 - $10 per foot.
  • Taxes : differs per state and country. Most governments want you to pay property tax and sales tax. Sales tax is usually about 5%. Property tax varies and is more complex, so I'll leave that up to you to figure out.
  • Trailer : $1,000
  • Sailing club initiation fee : $1,500 - $4,000

Recurring costs:

  • Mooring : $10-15 per foot per year (can be much higher for prime locations)
  • Insurance : typically 1.5% of the total value of the boat. So a $50,000 26' cruiser will cost 750 bucks.
  • Maintenance : a good rule of thumb is 10% of the boat value. Expect to spend anywhere between $500 - $2,500 per year for small to mid-sized boats.
  • Fuel : depends on how much you use the boat and the engine, but on average something between $100 - $150. - Find out how much fuel a sailboat uses in my article here (opens in new tab).
  • International License : if you want to sail on international waters, you have to get your ICC (International Certificate of Competence ). Plan on spending anywhere between 400 to 500 dollars.
  • Safety equipment : plan on spending anywhere between 150 to 600 bucks for lifejackets, first aid kit, and distress signals.
  • Winterize boat : $2,000
  • Sailing club: $800 - $1,500

Vonnie Harrington

Dear improvesailing.com webmaster, Your posts are always well-supported by facts and figures.

Bryon Soper

Hello improvesailing.com webmaster, You always provide useful information.

Tressa Valencia

To the improvesailing.com admin, Your posts are always well-referenced and credible.

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running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft

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I had an idea to hire out running rigging replacement on a 30ft sloop, with nothing fancy, just a double braid polyester. The estimate turned out to be 1700-2000+. So I told the rigger to replace just the main halyard for now (and I will do the rest by myself). He wants close to $500 for the halyard. This seems like at least 4x or 5x the cost of materials. Does this seem reasonable or am being taken for a ride?  

davidpm

Don't know about the price but you may want to consider sta-set-x for the halyard as it is only a few penny's more than stay-set (double braid) but with less stretch. Also I would want to know if the shivs need replacing as that would up the cost. So if your mast is what less than 40' and you have the halyard run back to the cockpit you have maybe 90' of line probably 5/16" or 3/8" at about a $1.00 a foot retail and possibly a new shackle and about two hours maybe three at $100 an hour it looks like 3 to 4 hundred might be closer unless you are not telling us something. Like the boat is on a mooring a mile out in the harbor and the line parted and the mast needs to be climbed.  

CalebD

Here is a tip: do it yourself. It is actually pretty easy to do. Halyards are pretty easy to replace by stitching the new line onto an end of the old line and pulling it through. David is right that if your sheaves at the top of the mast are messed up this can be much more difficult to do. Most of the lines on your boat are easy to replace but the line may cost a significant amount of money. I'd guess that you could replace ALL your running rigging on a Tartan 30 for under $500 in materials. I'd consider getting this sewing tool to attach the 2 lines together: BAINBRIDGE INTL Needle at West Marine be smart about burning the ends of each line you cut.  

When we got our Taran 27' about 8 years ago the PO spent the day with me and we replaced a sheet and and a halyard together. It was not difficult to do without going up the mast in a boasuns chair. There is also the trick of using a paper clip that has been bent into a double hook arrangement to grab each end of the line. You don't really want a joint between the lines that is fatter so splicing might or might not work as well as just sewing the two bitter ends together and covering with the rigging tape of your choice. I also really like to know how my running rigging lines are routed. DIY makes sense to me.  

sailjunkie

CalebD said: There is also the trick of using a paper clip that has been bent into a double hook arrangement to grab each end of the line. You don't really want a joint between the lines that is fatter so splicing might or might not work as well as just sewing the two bitter ends together and covering with the rigging tape of your choice. I also really like to know how my running rigging lines are routed. DIY makes sense to me. Click to expand...

JimsCAL

I replaced the main halyard and spin halyard on my previous boat. Had the eye splices done by Defender's rigging service and pulled them through using a light messenger with the mast up. Pretty easy job.  

Zib, I'm with Caleb on this one. $300 worth of labor, hell, I'd be ashamed if it took me a single hour to replace an existing line with a new one. Buy an extra ten feet of line and a splicing kit and video, spend some time learning how to splice in whatever the end fitting will be and consider yourself well paid by the savings. Or run a messenger line with the old halyard, then drop the new line and eye off at a shop and have someone make the splice. That surely can't cost more than $75....and you can still feed the new halyard "backwards" with the messenger line that way. The rigger's time is certainly worth money, but three hours at a hundred apiece to run a halyard...I hope that includes a titanium shackle, because the price of gold is only $1600 an ounce these days and 24k plating doesn't need a dollar's worth of it.  

Cal28

I just spent an inordinate amount of time researching and then purchasing new running rigging. Fortunately I have all the original specs for my sailboat ... if you don't try looking here Sailboatdata.com is the worlds largest sailboat and sailing yacht database with more than 8000 sailboats, sailing yachts, and sailing dingies listed. I'm modifying deck layout and running everything back to the cockpit ... no real existing hardware (I have to purchase) so it was relatively easy to spec size. I sketched out each and every line ... measured what I could to determine what I wanted/needed ... read as many posts as I could here and on Cruiser's Forum and Anything Sailing regarding grade and quality ... personally spoke with 2 riggers and 3 chandleries ... got quotes from Cajun Rope (good place to look and compare notes as they have premade kits id'd for many size boats) and two other places as well as searching ebay for bulk ... and in the end ... ending up purchasing at R&W Rope ... (as suggested by SailingDog somewhere here awhile ago) ... great helpful people and very competitive pricing ... You might just give them a try ... (no affliation) and yes ... do it yourself ... I'm 63 and not the most mechanically inclined ... but it sure aids in learning ... hope this helps ... John  

fryewe

zibadun, 900 is out of the question. And why would you feel obliged to do business with someone who didn't give you a good faith quote on work you offered him? Your request for quote shouldn't be considered "bothering him" since he should be in business to be bothered by customers and happy for it. If you are not rerouting lines on deck and needing new hardware, running rigging should cost you not much more than the cost of the line. Splicing is easy with a little practice. I had never spliced double braid until last year. I picked up a couple of books and the splicing tools needed and practiced a bit, and now can put an eye splice in a line in just a few minutes. Also learned to back splice to terminate the ends of my running rigging. You should be able to re-use your halyard shackles if you are using the same size line you currently have. It's great to be self sufficient in every area you can be, and splicing running rigging is a skill you'll be happy to have. All the best, Will  

weinie

I replaced all my running rigging w/ sta set custom ordered thru west marine for about 750. My boat is a 27 catalina and this included: main halyard w/ shackle jib halyard w/ shackle main sheet jib sheet travelers headsail furling line lazy jacks topping lift w/ shackle boom vang line  

also, it takes about 5 minutes to replace a halyard, assuming the new one has the shackle and you dont have to go up the mast. I used twist tie wire that i removed the plastic coating from and "sewed" both ends together. Then i finished it w/ electrical tape. Worked great. 'Cept I got lazy and didnt bother sewing the lazy jack line since the halyards went so easy. I jerked hard on the wrong end of the line by accident and it did indeed separate. I had a guy from the marina reach the block with the line, which was about 10' off the deck with a ladder.  

Cruiser2B

cost me about $500 to do Main, jib ,spinnaker halyards, topping lift and spinnaker pole topping lift, all with 3/8 Sta-Set line on my Alberg 30. I of course did this myself and lit took all of a morning. This also was buying 3 new shackles. I could never afford to sail if I had to pay someone repair simple things. I think you should try and tackle it.....Should be no problem!  

zz4gta

Sta-set is cheap. are you asking for a replacement shackle? New splice in the line? Is it parallel core? If it's a double braid then it should be something like $60-$80 for the line. 70 for the splice 50ish for the install. So at the high end, it'll be $200.  

Where are you located? I do rigging on the side, and could do it for less than 1/2 with better materials.  

Sanduskysailor

For future reference, replacing an existing halyard is a piece of cake. Quick and cheap. It takes all of 10 minutes and $5.00 worth of supplies. 1. Go to Home Depot and buy some super 33+ electrical tape- regular tape works but this stuff is 7 mil vinyl and stretchy. 2. Cut the shackle off the old halyard. 3. Butt the old halyard head end and the new halyard tail end together, wrap a couple of turns of tape tightly around the joint. 4. Spiral wrap (with gaps) from a foot above the joint to a foot below the joint. Wrap tightly. 5. Spiral wrap as above in the opposite direction. 6. Test by pulling as hard as you can. The joint shouldn't come apart as the spiral wrap compresses when you load it. 7. Pull halyard through mast. 8. Cut the tape off and you are done. Works every time- easy and very little skill. My suggestion for your halyard would be 8MM Novabraid Syntec from R&W Rope Warehouse. $.74/foot. Lower stretch than Sta=Set X for less money. I have no affiliation with anyone in the cordage business.  

To be official I checked with my rigger and he said he would figure an hour plus materials. Sta-setx is about $1.00 a foot retail, the high-tech stuff can be 3 bucks or more so unless there is more to the job than we know it should be closer to $200 than to $500 for the standard cordage based on these calculations.  

blt2ski

I used Sampson XLS Extra T and did the main and jib sheets, main, 2 jib and spin halyards, boom lift, ie 2nd main halyard for lack of better term. Probably spent 1200-1500 including new shackles and having Fisheries in Seattle do the eye splices at about $20 per. I have a 38' mast on my 30' boat! 50-100' jib, AS sheets, do not remember the main sheet or halyard off the top of my head, will swag halyards at about 70-80', inlcuding 10' for running back to cockpit along cabin top........I did the work myself other than the eye splices! Marty  

all understood about the job cost. I have pointed the rigger to this thread and he can reply, if he likes. Thanks guys so much for your help, especially for tips on how to DIY.  

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When should standing rigging be replaced?

  • Thread starter Project_Mayhem
  • Start date Nov 9, 2020
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Project_Mayhem

I've read that standing rigging should be replaced anywhere from 10 all the way up to 20 years and also simply based on condition. My boat has been in fresh water all its life. To the best of my knowledge it hasn't had a trailer until last year so the mast was up through the winter. Most recent receipt was for lower stays 10 years ago. Overall condition is good with some kinks here and there. No signs of corrosion or stray strands anywhere. Would you replace this?  

FastOlson

If you have (reasonable) evidence that the PO replaced only the worst sections, it's safe to assume that the rest of the rig is getting ancient and failure prone. 20 years is what we go by for fresh water usage, for a max time.... and matter of fact we are now replacing our 2004 complete rig. Be sure to replace the turn buckles also -- not much more $, and it's great to be sure of the integrity of the entire rig.  

jssailem

Standing rigging replacement. Just got home from my first sail with my 7 year grandson on my 47 year old boat. One of his first observations “Granddad that’s a pretty big pole. Is it going to fall down, cause that would hurt.” When and why do you change standing rigging. Easy answer “before it can fall down.” There is sailors knowledge based on observations and experiences that have formed the rules of thumb. 6-10 years for salt water exposed rigging and 15-25 years for fresh water rigging. Rough guides that depend on location of the boats sailing experience, how the boat has been used, and how the boat will be used. On a new to me boat I want to know the condition by inspection of the rigging and all the connections to the mast and hull. If I’m a day sailor with close proximity to repairs and my mast is easily fixed/taken down that is different than if I am planning an extended cruise isolated from repair resources and skilled help. Racing and heavy weather sailing tests the strength of the rigging. Replacement of the rigging components is more frequent and based on inspection. Kinks in wire is like chafe on a line. It requires more careful consideration of condition, usage, and inspection for signs of failure. Proper size and material components for the rig are further consideration. When I refitted my mast and rigging I had the help of a seasoned rigger. He advised that with the size of my mast, the manufacturer was known to have undersized the rigging. Based on my sailing plans he suggested we increase the wire and components one size. I base my decisions on my planned usage and condition of rig more than on a number of years. The reactive answer to your question is a probable Yes it is time. The resulting knowledge of “The Rigging” was new in 2021, is peace of mind and will serve a little should you decide to sell at a future date. Also there is a sense of confidence when that thunderstorm approachs that the rigging is new and solid. It should be one less worry about will we weather the storm. Now those 20 year old sails might be the next issue. Good luck.  

Project_Mayhem said: Overall condition is good with some kinks here and there. Click to expand

shemandr

Project_Mayhem said: ...I've read that the inner stays rarely snap. Does that mean that replacement time for those is longer? Click to expand

ontherocks83

ontherocks83

On our old boat we had the Port Aft lower shroud fail while sailing. The mast stayed up, but it sounded like a gun shot and was scary as hell. On our new boat the PO could not remember when or provide receipts to how old the standing rigging was. When applying for insurance they either wanted proof that the rigging was under 10 years old or to have a rigger inspect it and report its condition. I ended up just replacing all of the standing rigging through rigginonly.com in Fairhaven Ma. They were awesome to deal with and the price was very reasonable. To be honest I feel much more comfortable knowing the age and condition of the rigging especially when the wind picks up. And realistically all of the rigging on a 25' boat should not be expensive at all.  

ontherocks83 said: I ended up just replacing all of the standing rigging through rigginonly.com in Fairhaven Ma Click to expand
dlochner said: For Rigging Only . If you don't live nearby, call them and then send them the old rigging, they will duplicate it. Good service, good quality, nice people. Click to expand

rgranger

I think another factor to consider is how much of the "life time" of the rigging was spent with the boat in the water and the mast up. A boat in the water is in constant motion and the rigging experiences constant micro shock loads even when sitting in the slip. A boat spending most of the last 10 years on a trailer with the mast in a cradle has only corrosion to consider. It will always be a judgment call. You can't eliminate all risk on a sailboat and how to make that call will be different bassed on an individual's risk tollerance.  

dLj

Don't forget that this site will also replace your rigging. Just a FYI. dj  

tfox2069

Step 1 - Hire a professional rigger with a good reputation to do a thorough survey of your standing AND running rigging. Let them know any of your concerns before they get started. Step 2 - Evaluate their recommendations and decide for yourself. I just had a full rigging inspection done and the evaluation split the recommendations into: - "Good" (inspected and no action required) - "Watch" (no immediate action required but inspect regularly and plan to replace in the near future). In one case my VHF antenna's protective cover had UV degraded to the point of compromise and at some point the rigger felt the freezing and thawing of moisture entering the antenna would cause it to fail. I opted to replace now. - "Action now" (potential for failure soon). One example here was my mainsail halyard whose splice had UV degraded to the point the strength was compromised. I opted to replace now. Two other side benefits - if I have a rig failure I have a half leg to stand on with insurance that I did my best to maintain my rigging, having had a recent full inspection by a rigging company and rectified all known problems. Also, piece of mind that I'm not ASSUMING my rig is fine, but I have photographic evidence and expert advice of that (they took 141 photos during the inspection). I bought the 2009 boat in 2018 with no record of any rigging inspection or maintenance, so I figured the time was right at 11 years in salt water for a beefy B&R rig. They also discovered during the inspection that all my bolts on my radar were backing out - some nearly ready to fall to the deck (they fixed on the spot) and found my radar wire seal had popped out of the mast (fixed that on the spot). Worth EVERY BIT of the $150 I spent on it.  

Helpful

I would think at the first notice of a few broken strands in more than two of the wires. When the rig is tuned the wires are stretched. Before re-tuning the rig the mast base, turnbuckles and stay fixtures should be inspect. A boat with sound supports should not require re-tuning in less than 5 years. Any requirement to re-tune the rig more often than that would point to wires been stretched beyond their tensile strength minimums. The most important determinant would be the boat's use; a boat used for racing or offshore cruising would require the wires to be inspected and replace more often. Boats used for coastal cruising, week ending or day sailing may go longer. I personally take stock of a pleasure boat's components and their age and will not load an older boat's rigging as much as I would a newer one. I have broken more than my share of components in newer boats while a lot less in older boats. I agree with a general average of 20 years for replacing the standing rigging.  

This is some excellent information! I'm on Lake Michigan. I push the boat hard whenever conditions allow and am always a bit leery of its old rigging. I'll pull the standing rigging and as much hardware as reasonably possible (tangs, bolts, pins, turnbuckles, etc) and drop it off to a local rigger. I found some tests that some SBO folks had done many years ago on the O'Day 25's standing rigging. Their solidworks simulations revealed the rigging was on the lighter side. I'll also inquire about upgrading to one size up.  

Benny17441 said: I would think at the first notice of a few broken strands in more than two of the wires. Click to expand

Timm R Oday25

Timm R Oday25

When we brought our Oday 25 home ,I knew judging from the lack of care the previous owner shown the rigging might also be suspect. Every spring I replaced a set of shrouds . It was about $200 each spring. If there is a kink from a shroud or a stay ,it usually happens from stepping the mast .I've learned to not be in a hurry .  

I'll agree that most of the kinks were created during stepping or prepping for storage  

The reason it is a scheduled item is that a visual inspection prolly won't detect defects. Maybe dying or some other high tech test would. But you can't really detect corrosion down into the swage. I recently sailed on a boat that had rust around the wire/swage on all the shrouds. I think the owner needs to replace those but there's a Covid problem. The good news is that after a spirited sail, which was pretty physical, my hip didn't hurt. Every other muscle did but the hip was fine and I think I'm good to go.  

David in Sandusky

David in Sandusky

It sounds to me that the question is when, not if you will go for new rigging. When I thought about it this way, it seemed easy to give ourselves 20 years of confidence for our Lake Erie boat, rather than take the risk of waiting. We are cruisers who sail around 500 nm per year, and are able to avoid frequent encounters with heavy weather by laying over if storms are in the offing.  

David in Sandusky said: It sounds to me that the question is when, not if you will go for new rigging. Click to expand
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Sail Away Blog

Beginner’s Guide: How To Rig A Sailboat – Step By Step Tutorial

Alex Morgan

replace running rigging sailboat

Rigging a sailboat is a crucial process that ensures the proper setup and functioning of a sailboat’s various components. Understanding the process and components involved in rigging is essential for any sailor or boat enthusiast. In this article, we will provide a comprehensive guide on how to rig a sailboat.

Introduction to Rigging a Sailboat

Rigging a sailboat refers to the process of setting up the components that enable the sailboat to navigate through the water using wind power. This includes assembling and positioning various parts such as the mast, boom, standing rigging, running rigging, and sails.

Understanding the Components of a Sailboat Rigging

Before diving into the rigging process, it is important to have a good understanding of the key components involved. These components include:

The mast is the tall vertical spar that provides vertical support to the sails and holds them in place.

The boom is the horizontal spar that runs along the bottom edge of the sail and helps control the shape and position of the sail.

  • Standing Rigging:

Standing rigging consists of the wires and cables that support and stabilize the mast, keeping it upright.

  • Running Rigging:

Running rigging refers to the lines and ropes used to control the sails, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines.

Preparing to Rig a Sailboat

Before rigging a sailboat, there are a few important steps to take. These include:

  • Checking the Weather Conditions:

It is crucial to assess the weather conditions before rigging a sailboat. Unfavorable weather, such as high winds or storms, can make rigging unsafe.

  • Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment:

Make sure to have all the necessary tools and equipment readily available before starting the rigging process. This may include wrenches, hammers, tape, and other common tools.

  • Inspecting the Rigging Components:

In the upcoming sections of this article, we will provide a step-by-step guide on how to rig a sailboat, as well as important safety considerations and tips to keep in mind. By following these guidelines, you will be able to rig your sailboat correctly and safely, allowing for a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Key takeaway:

  • Rigging a sailboat maximizes efficiency: Proper rigging allows for optimized sailing performance, ensuring the boat moves smoothly through the water.
  • Understanding sailboat rigging components: Familiarity with the various parts of a sailboat rigging, such as the mast, boom, and standing and running riggings, is essential for effective rigging setup.
  • Importance of safety in sailboat rigging: Ensuring safety is crucial during the rigging process, including wearing a personal flotation device, securing loose ends and lines, and being mindful of overhead power lines.

Get ready to set sail and dive into the fascinating world of sailboat rigging! We’ll embark on a journey to understand the various components that make up a sailboat’s rigging. From the majestic mast to the nimble boom , and the intricate standing rigging to the dynamic running rigging , we’ll explore the crucial elements that ensure smooth sailing. Not forgetting the magnificent sail, which catches the wind and propels us forward. So grab your sea legs and let’s uncover the secrets of sailboat rigging together.

Understanding the mast is crucial when rigging a sailboat. Here are the key components and steps to consider:

1. The mast supports the sails and rigging of the sailboat. It is made of aluminum or carbon fiber .

2. Before stepping the mast , ensure that the area is clear and the boat is stable. Have all necessary tools and equipment ready.

3. Inspect the mast for damage or wear. Check for corrosion , loose fittings , and cracks . Address any issues before proceeding.

4. To step the mast , carefully lift it into an upright position and insert the base into the mast step on the deck of the sailboat.

5. Secure the mast using the appropriate rigging and fasteners . Attach the standing rigging , such as shrouds and stays , to the mast and the boat’s hull .

Fact: The mast of a sailboat is designed to withstand wind resistance and the tension of the rigging for stability and safe sailing.

The boom is an essential part of sailboat rigging. It is a horizontal spar that stretches from the mast to the aft of the boat. Constructed with durable yet lightweight materials like aluminum or carbon fiber, the boom provides crucial support and has control over the shape and position of the sail. It is connected to the mast through a boom gooseneck , allowing it to pivot. One end of the boom is attached to the mainsail, while the other end is equipped with a boom vang or kicker, which manages the tension and angle of the boom. When the sail is raised, the boom is also lifted and positioned horizontally by using the topping lift or lazy jacks.

An incident serves as a warning that emphasizes the significance of properly securing the boom. In strong winds, an improperly fastened boom swung across the deck, resulting in damage to the boat and creating a safety hazard. This incident highlights the importance of correctly installing and securely fastening all rigging components, including the boom, to prevent accidents and damage.

3. Standing Rigging

When rigging a sailboat, the standing rigging plays a vital role in providing stability and support to the mast . It consists of several key components, including the mast itself, along with the shrouds , forestay , backstay , and intermediate shrouds .

The mast, a vertical pole , acts as the primary support structure for the sails and the standing rigging. Connected to the top of the mast are the shrouds , which are cables or wires that extend to the sides of the boat, providing essential lateral support .

The forestay is another vital piece of the standing rigging. It is a cable or wire that runs from the top of the mast to the bow of the boat, ensuring forward support . Similarly, the backstay , also a cable or wire, runs from the mast’s top to the stern of the boat, providing important backward support .

To further enhance the rig’s stability , intermediate shrouds are installed. These additional cables or wires are positioned between the main shrouds, as well as the forestay or backstay. They offer extra support , strengthening the standing rigging system.

Regular inspections of the standing rigging are essential to detect any signs of wear, such as fraying or corrosion . It is crucial to ensure that all connections within the rig are tight and secure, to uphold its integrity. Should any issues be identified, immediate attention must be given to prevent accidents or damage to the boat. Prioritizing safety is of utmost importance when rigging a sailboat, thereby necessitating proper maintenance of the standing rigging. This ensures a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Note: <p> tags have been kept intact.

4. Running Rigging

Running Rigging

When rigging a sailboat, the running rigging is essential for controlling the sails and adjusting their position. It is important to consider several aspects when dealing with the running rigging.

1. Choose the right rope: The running rigging typically consists of ropes with varying properties such as strength, stretch, and durability. Weather conditions and sailboat size should be considered when selecting the appropriate rope.

2. Inspect and maintain the running rigging: Regularly check for signs of wear, fraying, or damage. To ensure safety and efficiency, replace worn-out ropes.

3. Learn essential knot tying techniques: Having knowledge of knots like the bowline, cleat hitch, and reef knot is crucial for securing the running rigging and adjusting sails.

4. Understand different controls: The running rigging includes controls such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Familiarize yourself with their functions and proper usage to effectively control sail position and tension.

5. Practice proper sail trimming: Adjusting the tension of the running rigging significantly affects sailboat performance. Mastering sail trimming techniques will help optimize sail shape and maximize speed.

By considering these factors and mastering running rigging techniques, you can enhance your sailing experience and ensure the safe operation of your sailboat.

The sail is the central component of sailboat rigging as it effectively harnesses the power of the wind to propel the boat.

When considering the sail, there are several key aspects to keep in mind:

– Material: Sails are typically constructed from durable and lightweight materials such as Dacron or polyester. These materials provide strength and resistance to various weather conditions.

– Shape: The shape of the sail plays a critical role in its overall performance. A well-shaped sail should have a smooth and aerodynamic profile, which allows for maximum efficiency in capturing wind power.

– Size: The size of the sail is determined by its sail area, which is measured in square feet or square meters. Larger sails have the ability to generate more power, but they require greater skill and experience to handle effectively.

– Reefing: Reefing is the process of reducing the sail’s size to adapt to strong winds. Sails equipped with reefing points allow sailors to decrease the sail area, providing better control in challenging weather conditions.

– Types: There are various types of sails, each specifically designed for different purposes. Common sail types include mainsails, jibs, genoas, spinnakers, and storm sails. Each type possesses its own unique characteristics and is utilized under specific wind conditions.

Understanding the sail and its characteristics is vital for sailors, as it directly influences the boat’s speed, maneuverability, and overall safety on the water.

Getting ready to rig a sailboat requires careful preparation and attention to detail. In this section, we’ll dive into the essential steps you need to take before setting sail. From checking the weather conditions to gathering the necessary tools and equipment, and inspecting the rigging components, we’ll ensure that you’re fully equipped to navigate the open waters with confidence. So, let’s get started on our journey to successfully rigging a sailboat!

1. Checking the Weather Conditions

Checking the weather conditions is crucial before rigging a sailboat for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. Monitoring the wind speed is important in order to assess the ideal sailing conditions . By checking the wind speed forecast , you can determine if the wind is strong or light . Strong winds can make sailboat control difficult, while very light winds can result in slow progress.

Another important factor to consider is the wind direction . Assessing the wind direction is crucial for route planning and sail adjustment. Favorable wind direction helps propel the sailboat efficiently, making your sailing experience more enjoyable.

In addition to wind speed and direction, it is also important to consider weather patterns . Keep an eye out for impending storms or heavy rain. It is best to avoid sailing in severe weather conditions that may pose a safety risk. Safety should always be a top priority when venturing out on a sailboat.

Another aspect to consider is visibility . Ensure good visibility by checking for fog, haze, or any other conditions that may hinder navigation. Clear visibility is important for being aware of other boats and potential obstacles that may come your way.

Be aware of the local conditions . Take into account factors such as sea breezes, coastal influences, or tidal currents. These local factors greatly affect sailboat performance and safety. By considering all of these elements, you can have a successful and enjoyable sailing experience.

Here’s a true story to emphasize the importance of checking the weather conditions. One sunny afternoon, a group of friends decided to go sailing. Before heading out, they took the time to check the weather conditions. They noticed that the wind speed was expected to be around 10 knots, which was perfect for their sailboat. The wind direction was coming from the northwest, allowing for a pleasant upwind journey. With clear visibility and no approaching storms, they set out confidently, enjoying a smooth and exhilarating sail. This positive experience was made possible by their careful attention to checking the weather conditions beforehand.

2. Gathering the Necessary Tools and Equipment

To efficiently gather all of the necessary tools and equipment for rigging a sailboat, follow these simple steps:

  • First and foremost, carefully inspect your toolbox to ensure that you have all of the basic tools such as wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers.
  • Make sure to check if you have a tape measure or ruler available as they are essential for precise measurements of ropes or cables.
  • Don’t forget to include a sharp knife or rope cutter in your arsenal as they will come in handy for cutting ropes or cables to the desired lengths.
  • Gather all the required rigging hardware including shackles, pulleys, cleats, and turnbuckles.
  • It is always prudent to check for spare ropes or cables in case replacements are needed during the rigging process.
  • If needed, consider having a sailing knife or marlinspike tool for splicing ropes or cables.
  • For rigging a larger sailboat, it is crucial to have a mast crane or hoist to assist with stepping the mast.
  • Ensure that you have a ladder or some other means of reaching higher parts of the sailboat, such as the top of the mast.

Once, during the preparation of rigging my sailboat, I had a moment of realization when I discovered that I had forgotten to bring a screwdriver . This unfortunate predicament occurred while I was in a remote location with no nearby stores. Being resourceful, I improvised by utilizing a multipurpose tool with a small knife blade, which served as a makeshift screwdriver. Although it was not the ideal solution, it allowed me to accomplish the task. Since that incident, I have learned the importance of double-checking my toolbox before commencing any rigging endeavor. This practice ensures that I have all of the necessary tools and equipment, preventing any unexpected surprises along the way.

3. Inspecting the Rigging Components

Inspecting the rigging components is essential for rigging a sailboat safely. Here is a step-by-step guide on inspecting the rigging components:

1. Visually inspect the mast, boom, and standing rigging for damage, such as corrosion, cracks, or loose fittings.

2. Check the tension of the standing rigging using a tension gauge. It should be within the recommended range from the manufacturer.

3. Examine the turnbuckles, clevis pins, and shackles for wear or deformation. Replace any damaged or worn-out hardware.

4. Inspect the running rigging, including halyards and sheets, for fraying, signs of wear, or weak spots. Replace any worn-out lines.

5. Check the sail for tears, wear, or missing hardware such as grommets or luff tape.

6. Pay attention to the connections between the standing rigging and the mast. Ensure secure connections without any loose or missing cotter pins or rigging screws.

7. Inspect all fittings, such as mast steps, spreader brackets, and tangs, to ensure they are securely fastened and in good condition.

8. Conduct a sea trial to assess the rigging’s performance and make necessary adjustments.

Regularly inspecting the rigging components is crucial for maintaining the sailboat’s rigging system’s integrity, ensuring safe sailing conditions, and preventing accidents or failures at sea.

Once, I went sailing on a friend’s boat without inspecting the rigging components beforehand. While at sea, a sudden gust of wind caused one of the shrouds to snap. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but we had to cut the sail loose and carefully return to the marina. This incident taught me the importance of inspecting the rigging components before sailing to avoid unforeseen dangers.

Step-by-Step Guide on How to Rig a Sailboat

Get ready to set sail with our step-by-step guide on rigging a sailboat ! We’ll take you through the process from start to finish, covering everything from stepping the mast to setting up the running rigging . Learn the essential techniques and tips for each sub-section, including attaching the standing rigging and installing the boom and sails . Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner, this guide will have you ready to navigate the open waters with confidence .

1. Stepping the Mast

To step the mast of a sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Prepare the mast: Position the mast near the base of the boat.

2. Attach the base plate: Securely fasten the base plate to the designated area on the boat.

3. Insert the mast step: Lower the mast step into the base plate and align it with the holes or slots.

4. Secure the mast step: Use fastening screws or bolts to fix the mast step in place.

5. Raise the mast: Lift the mast upright with the help of one or more crew members.

6. Align the mast: Adjust the mast so that it is straight and aligned with the boat’s centerline.

7. Attach the shrouds: Connect the shrouds to the upper section of the mast, ensuring proper tension.

8. Secure the forestay: Attach the forestay to the bow of the boat, ensuring it is securely fastened.

9. Final adjustments: Check the tension of the shrouds and forestay, making any necessary rigging adjustments.

Following these steps ensures that the mast is properly stepped and securely in place, allowing for a safe and efficient rigging process. Always prioritize safety precautions and follow manufacturer guidelines for your specific sailboat model.

2. Attaching the Standing Rigging

To attach the standing rigging on a sailboat, commence by preparing the essential tools and equipment, including wire cutters, crimping tools, and turnbuckles.

Next, carefully inspect the standing rigging components for any indications of wear or damage.

After inspection, fasten the bottom ends of the shrouds and stays to the chainplates on the deck.

Then, securely affix the top ends of the shrouds and stays to the mast using adjustable turnbuckles .

To ensure proper tension, adjust the turnbuckles accordingly until the mast is upright and centered.

Utilize a tension gauge to measure the tension in the standing rigging, aiming for around 15-20% of the breaking strength of the rigging wire.

Double-check all connections and fittings to verify their security and proper tightness.

It is crucial to regularly inspect the standing rigging for any signs of wear or fatigue and make any necessary adjustments or replacements.

By diligently following these steps, you can effectively attach the standing rigging on your sailboat, ensuring its stability and safety while on the water.

3. Installing the Boom and Sails

To successfully complete the installation of the boom and sails on a sailboat, follow these steps:

1. Begin by securely attaching the boom to the mast. Slide it into the gooseneck fitting and ensure it is firmly fastened using a boom vang or another appropriate mechanism.

2. Next, attach the main sail to the boom. Slide the luff of the sail into the mast track and securely fix it in place using sail slides or cars.

3. Connect the mainsheet to the boom. One end should be attached to the boom while the other end is connected to a block or cleat on the boat.

4. Proceed to attach the jib or genoa. Make sure to securely attach the hanks or furler line to the forestay to ensure stability.

5. Connect the jib sheets. One end of each jib sheet should be attached to the clew of the jib or genoa, while the other end is connected to a block or winch on the boat.

6. Before setting sail, it is essential to thoroughly inspect all lines and connections. Ensure that they are properly tensioned and that all connections are securely fastened.

During my own experience of installing the boom and sails on my sailboat, I unexpectedly encountered a strong gust of wind. As a result, the boom began swinging uncontrollably, requiring me to quickly secure it to prevent any damage. This particular incident served as a vital reminder of the significance of properly attaching and securing the boom, as well as the importance of being prepared for unforeseen weather conditions while rigging a sailboat.

4. Setting Up the Running Rigging

Setting up the running rigging on a sailboat involves several important steps. First, attach the halyard securely to the head of the sail. Then, connect the sheets to the clew of the sail. If necessary, make sure to secure the reefing lines . Attach the outhaul line to the clew of the sail and connect the downhaul line to the tack of the sail. It is crucial to ensure that all lines are properly cleated and organized. Take a moment to double-check the tension and alignment of each line. If you are using a roller furling system, carefully wrap the line around the furling drum and securely fasten it. Perform a thorough visual inspection of the running rigging to check for any signs of wear or damage. Properly setting up the running rigging is essential for safe and efficient sailing. It allows for precise control of the sail’s position and shape, ultimately optimizing the boat’s performance on the water.

Safety Considerations and Tips

When it comes to rigging a sailboat, safety should always be our top priority. In this section, we’ll explore essential safety considerations and share some valuable tips to ensure smooth sailing. From the importance of wearing a personal flotation device to securing loose ends and lines, and being cautious around overhead power lines, we’ll equip you with the knowledge and awareness needed for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. So, let’s set sail and dive into the world of safety on the water!

1. Always Wear a Personal Flotation Device

When rigging a sailboat, it is crucial to prioritize safety and always wear a personal flotation device ( PFD ). Follow these steps to properly use a PFD:

  • Select the appropriate Coast Guard-approved PFD that fits your size and weight.
  • Put on the PFD correctly by placing your arms through the armholes and securing all the straps for a snug fit .
  • Adjust the PFD for comfort , ensuring it is neither too tight nor too loose, allowing freedom of movement and adequate buoyancy .
  • Regularly inspect the PFD for any signs of wear or damage, such as tears or broken straps, and replace any damaged PFDs immediately .
  • Always wear your PFD when on or near the water, even if you are a strong swimmer .

By always wearing a personal flotation device and following these steps, you will ensure your safety and reduce the risk of accidents while rigging a sailboat. Remember, prioritize safety when enjoying water activities.

2. Secure Loose Ends and Lines

Inspect lines and ropes for frayed or damaged areas. Secure loose ends and lines with knots or appropriate cleats or clamps. Ensure all lines are properly tensioned to prevent loosening during sailing. Double-check all connections and attachments for security. Use additional safety measures like extra knots or stopper knots to prevent line slippage.

To ensure a safe sailing experience , it is crucial to secure loose ends and lines properly . Neglecting this important step can lead to accidents or damage to the sailboat. By inspecting, securing, and tensioning lines , you can have peace of mind knowing that everything is in place. Replace or repair any compromised lines or ropes promptly. Securing loose ends and lines allows for worry-free sailing trips .

3. Be Mindful of Overhead Power Lines

When rigging a sailboat, it is crucial to be mindful of overhead power lines for safety. It is important to survey the area for power lines before rigging the sailboat. Maintain a safe distance of at least 10 feet from power lines. It is crucial to avoid hoisting tall masts or long antenna systems near power lines to prevent contact. Lower the mast and tall structures when passing under a power line to minimize the risk of contact. It is also essential to be cautious in areas where power lines run over the water and steer clear to prevent accidents.

A true story emphasizes the importance of being mindful of overhead power lines. In this case, a group of sailors disregarded safety precautions and their sailboat’s mast made contact with a low-hanging power line, resulting in a dangerous electrical shock. Fortunately, no serious injuries occurred, but it serves as a stark reminder of the need to be aware of power lines while rigging a sailboat.

Some Facts About How To Rig A Sailboat:

  • ✅ Small sailboat rigging projects can improve sailing performance and save money. (Source: stingysailor.com)
  • ✅ Rigging guides are available for small sailboats, providing instructions and tips for rigging. (Source: westcoastsailing.net)
  • ✅ Running rigging includes lines used to control and trim the sails, such as halyards and sheets. (Source: sailingellidah.com)
  • ✅ Hardware used in sailboat rigging includes winches, blocks, and furling systems. (Source: sailingellidah.com)
  • ✅ A step-by-step guide can help beginners rig a small sailboat for sailing. (Source: tripsavvy.com)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how do i rig a small sailboat.

To rig a small sailboat, follow these steps: – Install or check the rudder, ensuring it is firmly attached. – Attach or check the tiller, the long steering arm mounted to the rudder. – Attach the jib halyard by connecting the halyard shackle to the head of the sail and the grommet in the tack to the bottom of the forestay. – Hank on the jib by attaching the hanks of the sail to the forestay one at a time. – Run the jib sheets by tying or shackling them to the clew of the sail and running them back to the cockpit. – Attach the mainsail by spreading it out and attaching the halyard shackle to the head of the sail. – Secure the tack, clew, and foot of the mainsail to the boom using various lines and mechanisms. – Insert the mainsail slugs into the mast groove, gradually raising the mainsail as the slugs are inserted. – Cleat the main halyard and lower the centerboard into the water. – Raise the jib by pulling down on the jib halyard and cleating it on the other side of the mast. – Tighten the mainsheet and one jibsheet to adjust the sails and start moving forward.

2. What are the different types of sailboat rigs?

Sailboat rigs can be classified into three main types: – Sloop rig: This rig has a single mast with a mainsail and a headsail, typically a jib or genoa. – Cutter rig: This rig has two headsails, a smaller jib or staysail closer to the mast, and a larger headsail, usually a genoa, forward of it, alongside a mainsail. – Ketch rig: This rig has two masts, with the main mast taller than the mizzen mast. It usually has a mainsail, headsail, and a mizzen sail. Each rig has distinct characteristics and is suitable for different sailing conditions and preferences.

3. What are the essential parts of a sailboat?

The essential parts of a sailboat include: – Mast: The tall vertical spar that supports the sails. – Boom: The horizontal spar connected to the mast, which extends outward and supports the foot of the mainsail. – Rudder: The underwater appendage that steers the boat. – Centerboard or keel: A retractable or fixed fin-like structure that provides stability and prevents sideways drift. – Sails: The fabric structures that capture the wind’s energy to propel the boat. – Running rigging: The lines or ropes used to control the sails and sailing equipment. – Standing rigging: The wires and cables that support the mast and reinforce the spars. These are the basic components necessary for the functioning of a sailboat.

4. What is a spinnaker halyard?

A spinnaker halyard is a line used to hoist and control a spinnaker sail. The spinnaker is a large, lightweight sail that is used for downwind sailing or reaching in moderate to strong winds. The halyard attaches to the head of the spinnaker and is used to raise it to the top of the mast. Once hoisted, the spinnaker halyard can be adjusted to control the tension and shape of the sail.

5. Why is it important to maintain and replace worn running rigging?

It is important to maintain and replace worn running rigging for several reasons: – Safety: Worn or damaged rigging can compromise the integrity and stability of the boat, posing a safety risk to both crew and vessel. – Performance: Worn rigging can affect the efficiency and performance of the sails, diminishing the boat’s speed and maneuverability. – Reliability: Aging or worn rigging is more prone to failure, which can lead to unexpected problems and breakdowns. Regular inspection and replacement of worn running rigging is essential to ensure the safe and efficient operation of a sailboat.

6. Where can I find sailboat rigging books or guides?

There are several sources where you can find sailboat rigging books or guides: – Online: Websites such as West Coast Sailing and Stingy Sailor offer downloadable rigging guides for different sailboat models. – Bookstores: Many bookstores carry a wide selection of boating and sailing books, including those specifically focused on sailboat rigging. – Sailing schools and clubs: Local sailing schools or yacht clubs often have resources available for learning about sailboat rigging. – Manufacturers: Some sailboat manufacturers, like Hobie Cat and RS Sailing, provide rigging guides for their specific sailboat models. Consulting these resources can provide valuable information and instructions for rigging your sailboat properly.

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RC Sailboat Rigging Setup- Briefed in 17 Easy Steps

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Table of Contents

Introduction

To build a model sailboat, you’ll need a lot of time, patience, and talent. Remote control sailboat beginners should start by altering or fixing a pre-existing model. It is possible to create a quicker and more sophisticated sailboat by rigging an existing model.

What to do for the rc sailboat rigging setup ?

Tether the retaining bolt and wire mainsail luff. Insert the mast stub and slide the entire main boom assembly. Push the masthead and backstay crane. Adjust the sail to match the mast reinforcement ring. Attach the eye in the mainsail clew. Close the hooks. Set the backstay’s length to the right.

To get the overall understanding, read the entire article.

Things to Bring

  • Stitching Device
  • Sailboat Controlled via Remote
  • Thread Made From Polyester
  • Fisherman’s Spectra Line
  • Dacron Sails
  • Utility knife

Procedure for Rigging

Use these rigging guidelines to their full extent. This ensures that the boat will sail with the qualities and performance that its creators intended. You can also check the RC dirt oval setup guide to ease your work.

Step 1: Replace Old Sails

Remove and replace the old sails. Cut out the new main and headsails from Dacron. Measure the old ones from the model and add a half-inch on each side to the new measurements. Tether the retaining bolt.

Step 2: Wire Mainsail with Eyelets

All six eyelets on the mainsail luff should have wired mainsail luff rings attached to them. 

Step 3: Place the Mast Stab

Be careful not to get the plastic collar’s bevelled edge. Insert the mast stub into the bottom of the mast.

Step 4: Slide Main Boom

From the bottom, slide the entire main boom assembly onto the mast stub.

Step 5: Slide Rings Under the Mast

Starting at the luff of the mainsail, slide all rings beneath the mast one at a time.

Step 6: Assemble Plug

Push the masthead and backstay crane. Assemble the plug into the mast. Cut a 250mm Dyneema length and tie the mainsail’s head to the backstay crane. 

Step 7: Layout the Sail

Adjust the sail to match the mast reinforcement ring at its highest point. The sail’s head may readily swivel. Poles are sheeted out at an angle of 80 degrees when the boat’s sailing with the breeze.

Step 8: Attach the Cunningham

Attach the Cunningham (downhaul) as demonstrated by cutting a 300mm length of Dyneema. Tie a cord to the eye in the gooseneck fitting’s uppermost eye. 

Step 9: Tie Bowsie’s Eye

Follow this path: First, tie one end to a Bowsie’s eye. Then, tie a second Bowsie’s eye; finally, tie a third Bowsie’s eye.

Step 10: Attach the Mainsail Clew

Attach the eye in the mainsail clew (bottom right corner) to the mainsail clew using a line.

Step 11: Close the Hook

Close the hook’s open end with thin-nosed pliers. Keep your sail from falling off while you’re out on the water.

Step 12: Replace the Sail If Needed

If you need to replace the sail, simply use a flat-bladed screwdriver to pry it open once again.

Step 13: Cut Dyneema

For the Backstay, cut a 900mm length of Dyneema. The Backstay Crane’s end hole has a loop where you can tie a piece of string. 

It’s time to attach one of our 6mm stainless steel rings to its bottom end. Using a Mast Socket, insert the mast and the rigged Mainsail into the hull.

Step 14: Attach the Loop

Once you’ve cut a 500mm piece of Dyneema, tie a loop in one end. Weave the other end through the first small gaps in a Bowsie. Then throw the rim at the bottom of the Backstay. 

Finish it back at the Bowsie. Using a metal hook in the Transom (rear edge of the hull), attach the loop to the backstay. Then put the Bowsie nearly halfway along the bottom rope and secure it.

Step 15: Tighten the Leech

To allow the leech (back edge) of the main to twist a little, lightly tighten the compression strut. Such that the leech (back edge) is under mild tension. Adjust the Cunnigham such that the luff of the sail is just slightly strained.

Step 16: Adjust the Position of the Rings

Set the backstay’s length to the right. A spacing of roughly 25 millimetres between the boom tube’s centre. Achieve the sail foot midway by adjusting the position of the silicon rings (SR5) and the mainsail clew hook.

Step 17: Connect the Foresail

Use the spectra fishing line to loop between the grommet and the eyebolt. Connect the foresail to the top of the mast before the mainsail. 

To make use of the foresail, equip the boat’s bow with a second, shorter boom. Connect the sail’s grommets to the short boom’s front and back eye bolts with spectra lines.

You can check these suggested rigging tools. You need these tools for rigging setup-

Apply a few drops of thin CA adhesive into the Dyneema cord at the point of the cut. Then cut through it at an angle. The cut end will be firm and pointed, making it simple to weave through the Bowsies.

A dollop of thin CA adhesive applied to the knot can help keep it in place. Once you’ve tied it, trim any extra rope. 

Don’t use hot gun glue as it doesn’t stick to this type of surface. If you take the time to secure all knots now, you’ll have a long-term reliable vessel.

Tips for Better Setup

A Dacron sleeve should be added where the lines come into contact with the hulls or plastic parts. Because Spectra is extremely powerful and can shred into the material.

Ask sailmakers for scraps or old, ripped sails that you may use to build the remote control boat sails. Only if they are willing to part with them.

There are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to rigging more sophisticated rigs. Like double mast designs or using spinnakers until you’ve gained some experience in the activity. Always clean your RC boat as you clean your RC car to avoid rusting. 

How tight should the rigging on a sailboat be?

If you push or tug on them, they shouldn’t wiggle about too much. So make sure they’re snug. Tighten them up if they’re still slack or floppy.There is no need to tighten any of the other shrouds after the cap shrouds are in place. Because they follow in consecutive order.

What’s the simplest way to sail a boat?

The Lateen Rig is a great starting sailboat. It only requires 2 ropes in its basic form.The Lateen Rig is one of the most basic sailing rigs. A  spar, boom, and mast are all part of this rig. As are a single jib sheet and mainsheet.

How much does it take to replace a sailboat’s rigging?

Re-rigging a sailboat can cost anything from $1,000 to $5,000. Re-rigging a 40-foot boat with wire is estimated to cost roughly $100 per foot. Which includes the round-trip costs of hauling, launching, and unstepping the rig (about $2,500).

Final Words

We’ve discussed here in detail on the rc sailboat rigging setup. This should help with the rigging setup, and we sincerely hope it does.

OK, so the above may look a little daunting. You’ll be able to recall this procedure with ease after completing it five or six times. Be familiar with and comfortable with your tools, settings, and methods.

The very best to you!

replace running rigging sailboat

Travis Murray

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IMAGES

  1. Rigging for beginners # 1. Sailboat rigging explained from standing rigging to running rigging

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  2. Running Rigging Upgrade Kit C-30 Complete

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  3. Why replace sailboat running rigging?

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  4. Sailboat Standing Rigging Diagram

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  5. Rigging Explained: Standing & Running (Sailboat Parts Explained

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  6. How to Replace Your Standing Rigging for Less

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VIDEO

  1. JPK 39 FC running rigging, boat tour before sailing Epi 4 Seas2

  2. Can We Rig Our Boat? Rigging our Wayfarer Sailing Dinghy for the first time! Ep 3

  3. Rigging inspection #shorts #shortvideo #rigging

  4. This Is How Most Sailing Running Rigging Failures Happen #sailing #sailingvideo

  5. 36' Sailboat Wrapped in a Mooring Ball

  6. Sailboat BEACHED!

COMMENTS

  1. When to Replace Your Running Rigging

    Apr 7 Many boat owners are reluctant to replace their running rigging, and for good reason, it can be expensive! But you know what is more expensive? Having to hire a rigger to climb your mast to run a new halyard after the old one breaks. So here are some tips and things to look for so that you can replace your running rigging before it breaks.

  2. Replace Your Sailboat Running Rigging

    a possible solution Generally it's much better to stay with the more traditional line for the running rigging of older boats. In the US, Sampson, New England Ropes and Yale all make a double braid dacron line very suitable for almost all the running rigging on an older sailboat.

  3. Average Cost to Replace Running Rigging (with Examples)

    For a 30-foot sailboat, the cost to replace a main halyard can be around $500. The estimated cost of replacing your boat's running rigging with sheets is around $1,700-$2,000+. For an average 40-foot boat, you can expect to pay around $4,000 for wire rigging replacement, which may include control lines.

  4. Running Rigging Calculator

    Our running rigging calculator can instantly spec lines for more than 5,000 sailboats. Just select your boat below and you're a couple clicks away from new, top quality rigging. We've reduced the choices to a minimum to make ordering as simple as possible. (If you prefer more choices, please see our Running Rigging Builder.)

  5. Replacing Your Rigging

    "My belief is that you should be replacing your sailboat's standing rigging every 10 to 15 years." But this time frame also is variable, depending on the boat's purpose and use. For instance, for an offshore bluewater boat, Madden recommends 10 years, and for a serious coastal cruiser, more like 12.

  6. Ask SAIL: Replacing Running Rigging

    A rope with a Dyneema core (SK 78 or better) with a polyester cover that can be removed from the working ends would be best. To avoid excessive wear, make sure your halyard sheaves are the proper type for whatever line you select. For all remaining running rigging, you can use polyester double-braid rope.

  7. How to Re-Rig a Sailboat

    Cruising World 4.29K subscribers Subscribe 27 3.5K views 1 year ago With the help of the rigging experts at West Marine, Cruising World shows us how to re-rig a sailboat with new running...

  8. Running Rigging for Sailboats: Everything You Need to Know

    1. Halyards: Starting from the topmast, halyards are used to hoist or raise sails. There are different types of halyards depending on the type and size of sail being raised - genoa halyard for headsails, main halyard for mainsails, spinnaker halyard for spinnakers, etc.

  9. Running Rigging on a Sailboat: Essential Components and Maintenance

    Short answer running rigging on a sailboat: Running rigging refers to the ropes and lines used for controlling the sails and other movable parts on a sailboat. It includes halyards, sheets, braces, and control lines. Properly rigged running rigging is essential for efficient sail handling and maneuvering of the boat.

  10. Understanding Running Rigging

    Regardless of ­whether you sail a modern, ­fractional-rigged sloop or a wishbone-rigged staysail schooner, it's the running rigging that sets, trims, reefs and furls the sails. In the bad old days, decks were full of wobbly, sheaved high-friction blocks and essentially one kind of cordage.

  11. Inspecting, Maintaining and Replacing Standing Rigging

    Aug 14, 2015. It's one of the most important features on a sailboat, but many owners put standing rigging at the back of their minds when it comes time to do their pre-season safety checks. A prudent sailor should inspect his or her standing rig at least once each season and should know when the time comes to replace most or all of it.

  12. Simple Ways to Optimize Running Rigging

    On boats with non-overlapping jibs, tapering is an easy way to save a little weigh. Plus, the smaller core size runs through across the boat more easily in tacks. I've been using soft shackles on...

  13. Replace running rigging

    We have a Hunter 26.5 1989 and have purchased new sails. We need to replace the running rigging. We plan to replace the main halyard and sheets. the jib is a furler job so we would just replace the sheets. This should be easy to do since the mast and boom are off the boat (on a stand in the...

  14. running rigging replacement.

    4,638. Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA. Feb 3, 2020. #3. I looked on this site and on the internet and did not find a running rigging schedule of diameters and lengths as shown in later model owner's manual. You might be a be able to determine the running rigging length for the halyards from the boat's dimensions shown in the attached manual.

  15. Replacing Your Standing Rigging

    Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion. The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote.

  16. Running Rigging Replacement

    Running Rigging Replacement. New owner of a 1989 Catalina 30. The maintenance log is pretty skimpy, and does not note any renewing of the standing/running rigging. As far as the standing rigging, I relocated the boat, via road transport, to a new location. During re-comissioning, the boatyard mentioned that I was getting "close" on replacing ...

  17. How to remove running rigging and replace with mousing lines

    The PBO Project Boat needs new running rigging. Chris Evans of XP Rigging in Poole visits the Maxi 84 and explains how to remove old lines and replace them w...

  18. Running Rigging for Cruising Sailors

    Let's begin by looking at sail-trim adjustments, which encompasses many items: sail curve (or draft, also called cord), luff tension, foot tension, sail twist from head to foot, and attack angle (the angle of wind as it approaches the sail's leading edge, or luff).

  19. Average Sailboat Maintenance Costs (with 4 Examples)

    The average maintenance cost will be roughly $255 dollars per month for boats under 30' or just under $3,000 per year. As you can see, most of these costs are longterm recurring maintenance costs. Some of these might not apply to your situation.

  20. running rigging replacement cost for a 30ft

    #2 · Jul 18, 2011 Don't know about the price but you may want to consider sta-set-x for the halyard as it is only a few penny's more than stay-set (double braid) but with less stretch. Also I would want to know if the shivs need replacing as that would up the cost.

  21. When should standing rigging be replaced?

    When and why do you change standing rigging. Easy answer "before it can fall down.". There is sailors knowledge based on observations and experiences that have formed the rules of thumb. 6-10 years for salt water exposed rigging and 15-25 years for fresh water rigging. Rough guides that depend on location of the boats sailing experience ...

  22. How To Rig A Sailboat

    Running Rigging: Running rigging refers to the lines and ropes used to control the sails, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Sail: The sail is the large, usually triangular, piece of fabric that catches the wind and propels the boat forward. Preparing to Rig a Sailboat Before rigging a sailboat, there are a few important steps to take.

  23. RC Sailboat Rigging Setup- Briefed in 17 Easy Steps

    Procedure for Rigging. Step 1: Replace Old Sails. Step 2: Wire Mainsail with Eyelets. Step 3: Place the Mast Stab. Step 4: Slide Main Boom. Step 5: Slide Rings Under the Mast. Step 6: Assemble Plug. Step 7: Layout the Sail. Step 8: Attach the Cunningham.

  24. Vadim Luppo on Instagram: "Friends, today we have a Najad 390 with a

    1,533 likes, 27 comments - how.to.buy.sailboat on February 24, 2024: "Friends, today we have a Najad 390 with a Volvo Penta engine, a teak deck and a huge amount of eq..." Vadim Luppo on Instagram: "Friends, today we have a Najad 390 with a Volvo Penta engine, a teak deck and a huge amount of equipment in the Caribbean for 132,000 euros!