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Meet Our Customers

Welcome to Sailrite’s "Meet Our Customers” page where we feature fascinating interviews and interest pieces submitted by our customers. This page enables us to spotlight our loyal and creative customers and tell their stories. From tales of complete canvas refits to testimonials about how Sailrite products and services have greatly enhanced and improved their DIY lifestyles, these stories are sure to inspire you as much as they inspire us.

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

Stay Safe at Sea With a Custom Jackline System

A study by the U.S. Coast Guard found that from 2000-2011, drowning accounted for 73% of sailing deaths. It’s a senseless tragedy when a sailor goes overboard because they aren’t properly tethered, or they’re tethered but get dragged alongside the boat and drown because the tether is far too long. But the worst part is that these deaths could easily be avoided if the sailor had installed a safe and useful jackline system.

Longtime Sailrite customer Captain Donald Quackenbush is a veteran sailor with 28 years and 100,000 miles of sailing experience. He’s been a 100 Ton U.S. Coast Guard Master Captain for 20 years and, as a member of the National Boat Handling Committee, created the Man Overboard System that is taught by the U.S. Power Squadron nationwide and is also available as a college course at the University of West Florida. He has generously offered to share his vast knowledge on sailboat safety measures with us. Everyone should feel safe on the water, and Captain Quackenbush’s system is set up in a way that, when properly installed, will prevent you from going past the toerail and dragged through the water.

One of the greatest benefits of Captain Quackenbush’s system is that it offers sailors the “third hand” so often needed while at sea. The tethers are shorter than most popular tether options on the market, meaning you don’t have to hold the tether with one hand as you move around the boat. This hands-free system gives the sailor freedom of movement compared to commercial jackline and tether setups. It enables the sailor to lean or pull against the tethers while working, offering support and stability. The three key parts of the captain’s jackline system are the location of the padeyes, the length and construction of the jacklines, and the short legs of the “Y” tether. We’ll cover all three aspects below and show you how to install this lifesaving jackline system on your boat. Captain Quackenbush has installed his jackline system on several customers’ boats over the years with excellent results and a perfect safety record.

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Installing the Padeyes

The first step is to install the padeyes in the correct locations. Most sailboats will require eight padeyes. Install a padeye right outside the companionway so you can hook yourself in as you exit the cabin during severe weather. The helmsman should always be tethered while on watch, so install a padeye in the cockpit (a second padeye at the aft end of the cockpit may be needed on larger boats). A padeye should also be attached near all four corners of the cabintop so that the jackline runs down the halfway point between the toerail and the boom as near as possible. This should make it possible to reach the boom and toerail but not go past either point.

Finally, two padeyes are installed on the foredeck, one center aft and the other center forward. The aft foredeck padeye should be reachable from either forward end cabintop padeye without unhooking. The padeye at the forward end foredeck should be forward enough so that you can reach the anchor, windlass, etc., but aft enough so that you can’t fall off the boat at the foredeck. Captain Quackenbush recommends through-bolting the padeyes as you will put a lot of pressure on the system if you slip or a wave sweeps your feet out from under you.

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It’s not necessary that the padeyes are placed the entire length of the foredeck and cabintop. The most important factor in padeye placement is that you should be able to move around the entire boat and never be unhooked in severe weather. So as long as you can reach the next attachment point without unhooking yourself from the current one—and the padeyes are far enough from the edge of the boat to not be able to fall overboard—the system is set up correctly.

You may be wondering why you can’t just use the cleats to attach the jacklines instead of installing padeyes. The reason is that the entire goal of Captain Quackenbush’s system is to keep you on the boat at all times, and the cleats are too close to the edge of the boat. Even with a short tether, you would still roll over the side of the boat. During inclement weather, this is the last thing you want to have happen. It’s incredibly difficult to hoist yourself back onboard when you’re being tossed around and soaked by a merciless storm, especially if you’re a solo sailor. Usually it’s impossible.

Jackline Do’s & Don’ts

Once you have the padeyes installed, the next step is adding the jacklines. You will have three jacklines on your boat: one each running along the port and starboard sides of your cabintop, and one running aft to forward on the foredeck. The beauty of Captain Quackenbush’s system is that with jacklines running along the cabintop and down the center of the foredeck, and with shorter tether lengths than commercial offerings, nothing will ever be around your feet and ankles as a potential tripping hazard. Captain Quackenbush uses Dyneema or Spectra webbing for his jacklines. Both have very little stretch under load, have good UV resistance, and the padeye knot or hook holds the webbing up at each end, making it easy to hook in. Another benefit to using webbing is that it is flat and, therefore, won’t become a tripping hazard should you step on it. Never use wire or line as they can roll underfoot. Be sure to pick a webbing color that is visible at night and easy to see. White seems to work best.

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The jacklines are removable for easy repair and storage. Sew a hook to one end of the jackline to clip to the padeye with repeated or heavy stitching (92 or heavier), and then tie the other end to the opposite padeye using an anchor bend and two half hitches. Or, you can tie both ends if you choose. Because the webbing is nonstretch, the jacklines don’t need to be tied super tight. The sun is your jacklines’ worst enemy, so storing them when not in use will help to prolong their life. Captain Quackenbush says his jacklines last about five to ten years, and he sails about 250 days a year. To check the quality of your jacklines, take them to a quiet location, hold the webbing up to your ear, and flex it. If you hear crackling, that’s a sign your jacklines are becoming brittle and need to be replaced.

Creating the Tethers

Now that you’ve got your padeyes and jacklines installed, the final step is sewing your own tether for your harness. Captain Quackenbush recommends a Y tether, meaning it’s shaped like a Y with one attachment point at the harness and two legs that attach to the jacklines. The central hook should be heavily sewn with a box X stitch and heavy UV thread as well. Go over it several times as you sew it. The hook that attaches to the harness should be brightly colored and easily visible at night (Suncor Poly Grip Harness Clip #103763 is a great choice) should you ever need to unhook in an emergency in poor visibility.

The tethers are made with tubular webbing with a heavy bungee cord inside to shorten them further when not in use. One tether leg should be shorter than the other so that you have a choice of tether lengths based on where you are hooking in on the boat—the leg for the foredeck jackline is typically the shorter one and the cabintop leg is typically the longer one. Determining the lengths of your tethers will require some measuring and experimentation on your boat. Create a Y tether with longish legs and tied on hooks, then go out on deck and determine the distance you need from the jacklines to just reach the toerail and boom with considerable pressure. Do the same with the foredeck jackline. Once you have your measurements, you can finish constructing the tethers and add the internal bungee. Sailrite offers tether kits or supplies sold separately to make your own custom design.

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The genius of the two-leg tether system is that you can move around the boat from one jackline to another without ever unhooking. Two tethers also allow you to be attached to a jackline and another spot on the boat, such as the mast, for even more security. This is a huge safety advantage and can be the difference between staying on your feet or being tossed around when the boat is pitching and rolling during rough weather.

Proper tether and jackline lengths are determined by the size of the boat. Every boat requires a separate setup. Jacklines should be located halfway between the toerail and the mast/boom. The padeyes should be placed so that you can move from the cockpit to the jackline, and then from one jackline to the next without ever unhooking. Simply switch back and forth between the two tethers as you move around. Keep the unused tether hooked back on the D-rings of your harness when not in use. Spending a bit of extra time during the planning stage—taking measurements and experimenting with padeye placement, and jackline and tether length—will ensure your safety while sailing. And that peace of mind is priceless.

The problem with commercial tether and jackline designs and kits on the market, according to Captain Quackenbush, is that they allow the sailor to fall off the boat and get dragged through the water. The tethers are so long they drag around your feet, getting tangled and tripping you. This requires you to constantly hold the tether up off the ground, leaving you with only one working hand and creating a very dangerous situation in rough weather. Likewise, jacklines located along the side decks also present a serious tripping hazard. The annoyance and inconvenience of these commercial tethers and jackline kits is why so many sailors don’t use them in favor of faster and easier movement around the boat. A deadly gamble.

A Message From Sailrite

We at Sailrite feel confident in recommending Captain Quackenbush’s jackline system to our customers. In fact, here’s what Owner and Vice President Matt Grant has to say about this system: “Captain Quackenbush is a longtime Sailrite customer with a keen understanding of safety and self-reliance at sea. His system makes perfect sense and his sole motivation in helping Sailrite to write these instructions is to save lives. Sailrite applauds Don and others like him who encourage safety at sea and are willing to freely share ideas.”

We’re hoping that by spreading the word about this great safety system we can help keep sailors safe and—most importantly—stay on their boats! Sailing is a wonderful sport and hobby, and it should be enjoyed to its fullest at all times without the worry or concern of your tether and jackline system failing you.

Visit Sailrite.com for all the supplies needed to install Captain Quackenbush’s jackline system on your boat: -8 Harken Folding Padeyes (#320611) -1 Suncor Poly Grip Harness Clip (#103763) -2 Suncor Asymmetrical Wire Lever Harness Clips (#103760) -Dyneema 1” Webbing (#106406) desired yardage

Disclaimer: The information in this article is the opinion of Sailrite Enterprises, Inc., and is not corroborated or verified by a sailing safety authority. Sailrite shall not be held liable in the event of injury or death. Use at your own risk.

Sailrite is your one-stop DIY shop! We are a passionate crew of do-it-yourselfers who strive to equip you with the supplies and how-to knowledge you need to tackle your next project. Do you want to learn upholstery, leatherwork, canvaswork, hobby sewing, bag making or more? We have the fabric, tools, hardware, sewing machines and notions you need to master any DIY. And even if you’ve never sewn before, our tutorials and how-to videos are designed for beginners and experienced crafters alike.

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12 thoughts on “Stay Safe at Sea With a Custom Jackline System”

Thank you for publishing this. It will serve all of us who sail extensively (or even just a little), to give more thought to this most fundamental safety requirement: Stay on the boat! I sail on the Inside Passage in the Pacific Northwest, and going overboard can easily be fatal.

After experimenting with various jackline configurations, I found most to be cumbersome and prone to creating their own hazard (from tripping). I’ll look harder at this in light of Captain Quackenbush’s recommendations. My boat is small – 26 feet on deck, and her deck is the more cluttered for it. My own solution is to use a spare halyard (my tops’l halyard) cleated to a length that allows me full travel on the deck, and which should keep me out of the water in any circumstance.

I’m aware that this solution has its own limitations as well, but most every system does. Reading this article will occasion a rethinking of my approach, and possibly to change or modify it. Thanks

I’m so glad you found this article useful! Glad we could help you rethink your jackline system and your approach to safety.

This is the most comprehensive system I have ever seen described! Everyone should install this!

Thank you for this useful information. I love the Y shaped harness design which enables you to double clip between jackstays and the bungee to keep it shortened. I will recommend adopting this harness system on our rescue vessels.

Smart ! I would consider to use something more than a 1“ Dyneema Web band. The 1“ brakes at aproxx 3800 lbs. The load required for one person is 1024 lbs of i am not malinformed. That makes 2048 lbs for two. Now add 30 – 40% (from total) for The knots. Allow some safety margin as well , this way the whole system as described is on the risky side. I always have a short Loop around the mast. That allows to hook in while working on the mast. This loop works fine with a 10-12mm dyneema rope. In addition i feel comfortable to carry a piece of rope (about 10ft) on my belt to fix myself or something while in working position.

I agree, we should avoid all all cost to fall over board. Fair winds ! Peter

The 1″ Dyneema webbing we sell at Sailrite has a minimum breaking strength of 4,540 pounds. We also sell 2″ Dyneema webbing with a minimum breaking strength of 20,590 pounds, which would definitely be more than enough strength.

Thank you for the tip about keeping a short loop around the mast for hooking in. That’s a great idea!

We asked Captain Quackenbush to take pictures of his jackline system so our readers could have a better visual of what the setup looks like. He was not out at sea at the time and was near shore when the pictures were taken. When he’s really sailing he keeps his dog securely tethered to the boat in the interest of safety. Thanks!

I could not resist commenting. Very well written!

This design is incredible! You most certainly know how to keep a reader entertained. Between your wit and your videos, I was almost moved to start my own blog (well, almost…HaHa!) Great job. I really loved what you had to say, and more than that, how you presented it. Too cool!

Hello there! Do you use Twitter? I’d like to follow you if that would be okay. I’m absolutely enjoying your blog and look forward to new updates.

Sailrite is on Twitter! Here is the link: https://twitter.com/sailrite

Great article.

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Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

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how to install jack lines on a sailboat

iNavX

Using Jacklines and Tethers

August 6th, 2020 by team

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

by B.J. Porter (Contributing Editor) 

Jacklines and tethers can save your life. But used incorrectly, they won’t work and can even cause harm.

So what’s the proper way to use jacklines and tethers? Jacklines need to be installed with enough tension in a position that won’t let you go overboard, and a tether should always attach to the boat or jackline.

There are more specifics about when to use them and how. But jacklines that let you overboard can kill you, and a tether that’s not attached to the boat is useless.

Jackline Installation

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

The risk of an improper jackline installation is that it will still let a sailor go overboard who may drag with the boat and drown. Jacklines give safety by helping you stay in the boat, but a jackline which will let you get dragged is dangerous, because it makes you feel safe but isn’t.

Jacklines need to be tight and installed so they don’t run all the way to the bow or stern if you can do it. Preferably, they should be as inboard as possible. While you need to reach the bow or stern with your tether on the jackline, running the jackline to the edge of the boat allows enough room for you to go overboard.

Most commercially made jacklines are flat webbing, which is recommended because it won’t roll under your feet like a round rope. Better quality jacklines like the ones we use are reflective, so they are visible at night if you’re carrying a light. Nylon webbing stretches when wet, so strap it tight when you install it.

Check the tension to see how much you can deflect the jackline from it’s installed line. You want as little wiggle room as possible. When you’re installing, clip a tether on it and haul it towards the lifelines. Does the end reach over the lifelines? Because if that end is clipped to your harness, that’s your body going over the lifelines if you fall.

If you are planning an overnight sail or are expecting heavy weather, install them before you leave. Installing jacklines in the dark or building weather is a lot more difficult.

Tether Choice and Use

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

Always use a double tether with an easy release clip. If you struggle to open the clip when it’s warm in the cockpit, it will be almost impossible fumbling in the dark with cold, wet hands, or in the water under load.

Our preference is for asymmetrical tether legs – a longer leg and a shorter one. For working, I prefer clipping with the shorter leg since it lowers the chance of going overboard if the jackline stretches. For moving I’ll use both, and when I’ve gotten where I’m going I’ll double clip on.

Higher quality tethers will have an indicator thread stitched into the webbing to show if the tether has ever overloaded; this is a World Sailing safety requirement. A shock-loaded tether will lose working strength, and the telltale thread will break when this happens. Replace any tethers with broken threads.

Moving Around the Boat with Jacklines and a Tether

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

“One hand for you, one for the boat” is only the beginning for safely moving on deck offshore, especially at night. If you are leaving the cockpit, always have one end of your tether attached to the boat.

Our rule offshore is anyone how comes above after dock tethers to something, even in the cockpit (where we have several handy rings). A few other excellent rules are:

  • Never leave the cockpit without clipping on first. Jacklines should be installed so you can do this.
  • Move slowly and carefully, so you can watch your footwork and what you’re clipping on to.
  • When moving, always clip your next tether leg on before removing the last one.
  • Always move on the high side of the boat, unless you have to work on the leeward side. Staying windward and clipping to the jackline on that side means if you fall, you’ll end up on the boat and not in the water.
  • Double clip when you aren’t moving. Leave one end of your tether on the jackline, but you can loop the other end around a shroud, cleat, or other hard point on the boat as a backup.
  • Do NOT clip to the lifelines. They aren’t usually strong enough to hold the point shock-load of your body on a tether. If you have to clip near a rail, go around a stanchion.

Additional Resources

Safety is a critical topic, and we hope you’ll look at a few more valuable resources to help you get your jacklines straight.

  • https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/jackline-installation-advice
  • http://www.mysailing.com.au/news/practical-tips-for-using-jacklines
  • https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Safety-Harnesses-Tethers-and-Jacklines
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how to install jack lines on a sailboat

  • Banishing Sidedeck Jacklines Forever

Phyllis removing our sidedeck jacklines.

There is no question in our minds that changing to a centreline jackline (as detailed in the last two chapters) has made us a lot safer than we were when we used sidedeck jacklines.

But here’s the very cool and surprising thing: It’s actually easier and faster to use our new system.

Read on for why:

  • A tether running on the centreline seems to foul less often on sheets or other lines than one running on the sidedeck.
  • In most evolutions that require access to the bow (most notably poling out the jib), one person works the bow and mast and the other the cockpit, so once we are both in position there are no added tether changes, whereas with the old system the bow person changed from the sidedeck to mast tether at least twice to complete the job.

Net result, we have actually reduced the number of tether changes compared to using a sidedeck jackline, running cockpit to bow, and a separate mast tether. 

And this is not theory. This summer we tested our new system by doing all of our normally-required deck tasks without resorting to the sidedeck jacklines even once  (see the video at the end of this chapter).

Added Two Tethers

That said, though being attached to the tethers that run on our centreline jacklines allows us to accomplish almost every task on the boat, there are two exceptions:

Dropping The Main

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First, when dropping the main, one of us needs to jump up on the mast pulpit to grab the halyard so that it doesn’t fly about, but both the tethers attached to the jacklines are a tad too short for this.

So we have added a tether that we leave permanently attached to a pad eye on the mast and change to it just before dropping the main.

Another solution would be to use a boat hook to snag the halyard. We did try that but found it awkward and I guess deep down I kind of take pride in still being able to jump up there at age 65.

That said, it’s not the safest or smartest thing to do, particularly for an old fart, so I have already made a note to see what we can do to fix it. Probably some sort of custom short handled hook that remains stowed at the mast.

But even if that does work, this tether will stay because it also comes in handy if we need to climb up on the dodger or bimini, say to tie in a reef, since it can be easily moved to one of the many hard points on the boom.

Furling The Main

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Second, to furl the main, one of us needs to stand on the aft cabin top. We used to simply move one of the cockpit tethers to the top of the boom gallows to do this, but this got a bit awkward when we added our new cockpit enclosure , so we have added a permanent tether to the gallows, that can also be used for anything we need to do aft of the cockpit.

(You will notice that these two tethers are made from rope, not webbing; more on how and why in the next chapter.)

Loose Tethers

Whenever I write about our system of using multiple tethers that remain attached to the boat, someone will worry in the comments about said tethers tapping on deck or washing out of reach.

And that worry would seem logical. However, in over 20 years of using this system, while sailing tens of thousands of offshore miles, some of it in pretty nasty weather, that has just not been a problem. Not really sure why, but there it is.

That said, we did find one new problem after our change to centreline jacklines: If I casually drop the cockpit tether inside the cockpit, as was my habit, after I have changed to the tether attached to the centreline jackline running from cockpit to mast, I will have a problem on my return to the cockpit because I won’t be able to reach the cockpit tether without disconnecting from the cabin top tether.

jhhomd1-9261583

The solution was simple: we just leave the cockpit tether attached to a webbing loop we added to the bimini support as shown. Now if we can just train a certain old fart to remember to use said loop, all will be well.

A Surprising Safety Benefit

As is the case with most any project, no matter how well planned, once we got all this done and had used it for a while something unexpected became apparent, but the cool thing is that it was all positive for centreline jacklines:

jhhomd1-9281615

You often see crew using their tether to steady themselves as they move around the boat. But as the above photo shows, with sidedeck jacklines this is at best a small reduction in fall risk and at worst an illusional benefit, since the tether is attached to a line at one’s feet and is therefore adding almost no real stability.

jhhomd1-9281613

On the other hand, with a centreline jackline the stability benefit is real and substantial because the attachment point is both inboard (the direction of safety) and higher than our feet (on most boats).

You have to play with this offshore in some waves to really feel the gain, but trust me, it’s huge. I can also see how a quick grab at the tether, attached inboard, would stop me falling even after I lost my balance and particularly if the direction of my fall was backward.

Yes, I know, one hand for me, and one for the ship, and the one for me should always be on a rail or shroud (never the lifeline), but in the real world there are plenty of occasions where that rule gets broken and this added benefit could save the day.

Over To You

While each owner will need to think about the details, I’m pretty sure that the system we have detailed in this chapter and the last can be the basis of a system that will work on most any boat.

The Right Thing To Do

Let’s all get rid of those sidedeck jacklines now.  Ours are gone forever, as shown in the photo that opens this chapter.

As recent tragedies have shown, at best sidedeck jacklines are much less safe than centreline jacklines and, at worst, perhaps more dangerous than no jacklines at all , since they confer a false sense of security.

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More Articles From Online Book: Crew Overboard Prevention & Recovery:

  • We Should Focus On Staying Aboard, Not Recovery
  • The Risks of Falling Overboard at Sea
  • The Real Reason to Use a Harness and Tether
  • Staying Attached To The Boat
  • Flawed Jackline Systems, Part 1
  • Flawed Jackline Systems, Part 2
  • Better Jackline Systems
  • An Efficient Foredeck Centreline Jackline
  • Jacklines: Materials, Fabrication and Installation
  • The Right Tethers To Keep Us Aboard—Part 1, A Mix
  • The Right Tethers To Keep Us Aboard—Part 2, Construction and Hardware
  • Harnesses and Lifejackets and How to Use Them
  • Crew Overboard Prevention—Use of Climbing Harnesses
  • Should We Wear Lifejackets or Harnesses, Both, Neither?
  • Which Lifejacket Auto-Inflator Should We Select?
  • Crew Overboard Recovery, Is The Quick Stop Bogus?
  • Crew Overboard Recovery—Our Replacement For Quick Stop
  • Time to Stop Using And Selling Tethers with Gibb-style Hooks

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Safety Lines

  • Thread starter Stephen Ord
  • Start date Dec 22, 2002
  • Hunter Owner Forums
  • Ask A Hunter Owner

Stephen Ord

How does one rig the lines (straps) that one should clip your safety harness to in order not to fall overboard? I have seen some layouts but am afraid that if one fell overboard you would be virtually keelhauled. I want to have a layout so that my crew (wife) feels confident to go forward to reef or douse a sail. She and I both have Sospenders with harness.  

Jacklines. Stephen: What you are looking for are Jacklines. They are made from high strength nylon web. They usually attach to the bow cleat and to another cleat on the stern. I would have to agree with you that their is the possibility that one would be could be dragged through the water. It advantage is that you know where your victim is located. This may not be the case if they fall overboard. I have also seen a method where the owner has attached life vinyl coated line cable to the cabin. This would provide less movement of the for deck, so it would not be my choice.  

Stephen The jacklines are usually attached to padeyes not cleats. The tether from the jackline to the harness should have a length that keeps you from being dragged in the water. That is the purpose of correctly installed jacklines.  

What we do? We have different systems on our yachts however on the 260 we run Nylon webbing attached to the mainsheet U bolt on the cockpit floor up and around the mast and back to the U bolt again. Have not had anyone go over yet but I figure this is the best solution. I would not recommend the cleats at all. With the line going around the mast it means you can clip on and reach the bow.. It also means a shorter jackstay so less stretch.  

Hi Stephen, most articles that I've read... suggest that you install two jack lines, port and starboard between a bow cleat and stern cleat. In practice the experienced opinions tell you to always clip onto the windward jack line to reduce the chance of being "keel hauled". Terry  

Why wouldn't one use the cleats? I am curious why some have suggested that you do NOT use the cleats. They are reinforced at some of strongest attachment points on the boat. The mfg of the jack lines also recommend either the cleats or a pad eye. If you do some research, there are complaints with the webbing that it does stretch. Some article that I have reviewed recommend that you soak the lines in water and then attach them at the bow & stern attachment point. Stephens concerns are justified!  

Windward attaching of the harness tether is a good point Terry. Cleats are for docking lines, fenders, running rigging, etc Steve. Padeyes, properly installed, not only free up cleats but also place the jacklines where you want them.  

Mickey and Debbie McHugh

Clip Forward, Cleat Aft The 45 foot jacklines I got at WM have a large S/S clip on one end, so that clips to the forward most perforation (hole) in the toetail, and then I make the aft end fast to a stern cleat. This way, I can get them really tight and they lay right down on the flat deck so less chance of tripping on them. Don't use a regular line, since you might fall if you step on it and it rolls. (decks should always be kept as clear as possible) Install a padeye forward if you don't have a perforated toerail or other solid attachment point, but DO use the aft cleat. The web around the cleat stays tight and lays flat, so the stern cleat is still very usable if you need to put a line on top of it. If both ends have a clip, then it would be difficult to get/keep your jacklines tight. Whatever forward attachment point you use, be sure it allows you can go as far forward as you might be required to go. I wouldn't want to re-clip while on the bow.  

why "jacklines" Any particular reason why we have to use the webbing-type lines that are marketed as ad hoc "jacklines"? Why not just extra-low-stretch yacht braid? Forgive the stupidity of this question but I am considering rigging a boat with harness gear only for the first time, and I have no experience making decisions about this part. JC  

Chuck Wayne

jacklines Use the Jacklines-not only are they very high strength, but they lie flat on the deck-a round line is a slipping hazard if someone steps on it- usually, people clip on the bow and tie off the bitter end on an aft cleat- make sure that the aft end is inboard enough so that if someone is tethered and washes aft, they stay on the boat when they come to the end of their tether. it's really hard to recover someone if they go over the stern  

Harness Length Why is then that they make the Line from your harness so long? Most I have seen are about 6 - 10 feet. In order to avaoid being swept over the Jackline should stop 10 feet from the stern. Right?  

I like shorter tethers. I plan on experimenting with shorter tethers next time I use them. I use nylon webbing for the jack line and find it stretches and don't like the idea of plasic covered wire rope. I think with a 2' long tether on a correctly positioned jack line I could reach every where on my deck.  

Need to clip on in the cockpit. Stephen: You need to clip on in the cockpit and be able to steer the boat and go to the bow. You need to be able to get to the jib and the main sail. All of this needs to be done without unclipping from your jacklines. The majority of the tethers are about 6' long. This pretty much dictates that you either have a double tether (two clips if you want the jack lines to stop at the cockpit) or have the lines run close to the stern.  

Bruce Mulford

What about running the jackline..... From a bow cleat aft right down the center of my H410 to the top of the arch, directly over the helm. With a 6' tether it seems like I could clip on as I leave the cabin, get to the wheel, but be safe from going very far over the side (13'10" beam). Only problem I can think of is in going to the bow I have to get around the inner shroud, and the mast depending on which side of the mast the line is on. This could probably be dealt with with a double clip on the tether. The 410 is brand new and I have the harness, tether and web jackline but am not sure how best to hook it up. Comments and ideas welcome.  

Mark F. Arena

How I plan to get my sorry butt back on the boat. Nobody has addressed my biggest fear re this issue-so I will: I sail Lake Erie solo quite a bit, and have become concerned about reentering the boat if trapped at either port or starboard stern (I picture me OB, sliding back along a jack line, ending up at either rear corner of the boat, in the H2O<--brrrr). Proposed solution: I am thinking of installing single steps at each corner, mounted on the corner rails, with a tether hanging down on each side to just above H2O level. OB?-NP-tug your tether, raise your sorry self into the boat, open beer. Any comments/criticism before I proceed?  

David Foster

Docklines as jacklines on h27 We attach 25' docklines to each of our two bow and stern cleats. On departing the dock, while motoring out of the marina, we tie the docklines that were in use into a jackline. First we put a bowline loop in the end of the bow line around a bight (loop) of the stern line. we then haul on the stern line around the stern cleat to tension the line, and tie it off on the cleat. The unused docklines on the other side are already made up in this way. This keeps the docklines on deck, but out of the way while underway. When returning to port, we just undo the lines as required, once we are out of the seaway. At anchor/mooring, they stay in place. While the round lines could be a tripping hazard, they do line right against the cabin on our '77 h27, and have not caused a problem yet. The Admiral comments that we are always mangaing the tether along the jackline when moving along it, so it's unlikely to step on it. Our decks have good width (the shrouds attach outboard along the toerail), and against the cabin roof is not a natural foot placement. The bowline knot makes a natural stop against being swept too far aft. It's clear with our 6 foot tethers that a fall over the lifelines would still leave one dragging in the water. I have hooked on to the jackline on the opposite side to prevent this while single handing in five footers. In any case, overboard and attached is a whole lot better than overboard and adrift! By the way, the same system worked just fine on the modern h340 we chartered this summer in the North Channel. Our standard MOB recovery is to move the vang (on snap shackles) to the end of the boom, and attach it to the harness, or lifesling to provide a 4 fold advantage in lifting one of us back onboard. We also have a pad eye in the cockpit to clip on there. You can get outside the lifelines, but not in the water from this point, and we spend 95% of our heavy weather time hooked up there. (Of course, the other 5% is the most hazardous time when going forward.) David Lady Lillie  

Mark I guess you didn't read all the posts. It was suggested that the tether be short enough to not allow you to go overboard.  

Jack Line use The purpose of the Jack Lines and a safety harness is to prevent the sailboat from sailing away without you if you happen to fall overboard. The lifelines and/or safety netting on the sailboat’s stanchion is the last line of defense to keep you in the boat. Most of the times when sailors fall over board, they fall over the lifelines and not under them. Some sailors have added a third lifeline or safety netting to decrease the chance of sliding under the lifelines. If you need to use a safety harness attached to the Jack lines, then the harness line needs to be long enough to allow you free movement. Some sailors have talked about shortening the length of the harness safety line to keep them in the boat, but shortening the line may increase your chances of being pulled and losing your balance by the safety harness as you move forward if it is too short. If you are using the Jack lines when sailing solo, then by all means add some sort of rope ladder or step to help you re-entering the sailboat from the stern. The big danger when using the Jack line is falling under the lifelines and being hung up on a stanchion at the bow and having no way to re-enter the boat. That’s the reason most solo sailors add netting or a third lifeline to ensure that if you fall overboard, you do not fall under the lifelines and get caught up forward on a stanchion. Another thing is that the Jack line must be continuous from the bow to the stern. If you have it segmented, than you might again be hung up forward away from your ladder at the stern. And if you use the Jack line on the opposite side, then the same danger of being hung up and dangling forward and away from the rope ladder or step at the stern of the boat if you are sailing solo. Remember if you fall overboard using a safety harness and Jack line, you must drift to the stern of the boat and re-enter the boat at the stern using a rope ladder or step, unless you are physically able to haul yourself before than by using just the web harness line. Dock lines are not rated as a life safety device. You should use Jack lines that approved by the Offshore Racing Council (ORC) as a life safety device. These are just one sailor’s opinion, how you use Jack line if up to you. Fair Winds. Clyde  

Jack Line use cont. If you are sailing short handed, i.e. with only one other crewmember, then whenever someone needs to leave the cockpit and go forward, the other crewmember must be in the cockpit. The crewmember in the cockpit prepares a man overboard retrieval sling that is ready to be deployed. If the crewmember up forward should fall overboard, the crewmember in the cockpit must not leave the cockpit. The second crewmember must heave-to and performs a MOB. The crewmember that falls overboard must swim; push-off the side of the hull if the sailboat is heeled over and does whatever it takes to get to the stern of the sailboat. If the second crewmember leaves the cockpit and goes to the aid of the first crewmember up forward, the possibility that both crewmembers being hung up forward and being lost is greatly increased. Fair Winds. Clyde  

The best explanation I have seen yet Clyde - Thank you for the best explanation of why the Jacklines are set up as most books describe but do not explain why. I would think the only problem would be the stanchions getting in the way.  

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how to install jack lines on a sailboat

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how to install jack lines on a sailboat

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  • Safety & Seamanship
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Jackline Materials Evaluation

Owners of larger boats need to look for less elastic materials..

how to install jack lines on a sailboat

Most offshore sailors are familiar with jacklines, those long lines-typically made of high-strength, low-stretch webbing-that run along the deck, offering a convenient way for sailors to clip in with their safety tethers and still move about. They provide peace of mind when going forward, and security in the event of a misstep. In previous articles, we reviewed the use of tethers and jacklines . In this report, we take a closer look at the ideal jackline material, with particular focus on elasticity and how the best material is not the same for big boats as it is for smaller boats.

In our recent article on do-it-yourself webbing projects , readers asked about making their own safety equipment using the webbing that rock climbers rely on. Although racers at the highest level often fabricate their own safety gear, we hesitate to recommend DIY safety gear for everyone because it requires intimate knowledge of the material specifications as well as the load requirements for the application.

A DIY jackline is possible, however. Manufacturer specifications for webbing and cordage tend to be fairly accurate. And, for tether and jackline applications, it doesn’t require rocket science to calculate the loads. The amount of stretch and impact imparted by a fall has been exhaustively tested and modeled in rock-climbing applications.

Jackline Materials Evaluation

The questions that matter for jackline applications are: Will the line stretch so much that a sailor can slip over the side, and will the impact be so great that it will over-strain the system or injure the sailor? Both are possible without proper design, and as well see, one material doesn’t work for all boat sizes. While the International Sailing Federation (ISAF, the world governing body for the sport of sailing) has a minimal, one-size-fits-all standard for jacklines (see accompanying story), we can do better by choosing materials and sizing appropriate to the specific boat.

What We Tested

In order to come up with some basic guidance for choosing jackline material according to boat size, we built a model for performing a series of tests that allows for common materials and variables. The products tested included: 1-inch nylon rock-climbing webbing, 1-inch polyester jackline webbing, 3/16-inch and -inch Dyneema, and 3/16-inch and -inch 7-by-17 stainless-steel cable (Grade 316). Although Dyneema jacklines are often encased in 1-inch webbing to reduce the potential for rolling underfoot, we didnt do this because the webbing doesn’t affect the Dyneemas strength or stretch.

How We Tested

All of the results posted in the accompanying table were based on a combination of lab testing and load modeling. Any assumptions regarding installation and application in the real world were confirmed on one of our test boats in the Chesapeake Bay. To estimate loads, we needed a test dummy to fall, and for this, we used the standard mass (225 pounds) as described in ISO 12401, an established international test for safety harnesses and tethers.

We assumed that a crewmember on a bigger boat, because he had more distance to fall, would attain a higher velocity than one on a smaller boat. We made the jackline slightly shorter than the boat, and we assumed that only one sailor would fall on the jackline at a time. (None of the products we looked at recommended that more than two people be attached to a single jackline simultaneously.)

We set a limit for impact force at 700 pounds. The U.S. military uses 1,200 pounds for a safe parachute opening force, but that is with a full body harness. To determine final impact force on the body of our victim, we factored in tether stretch, but not the shifting of the harness on the body, and any chest compression; each of these would reduce the peak impact load. Once stretch was accounted for, the real-world forces on the body were reduced to less than 500 pounds in all cases.

Observations Model

The data is presented in the accompanying table, Jackline Materials Test. The yellow areas indicate acceptable design combinations, while pink areas indicate specific failures. As the jackline becomes longer, stress goes up, so more stable, stronger materials are required.

Stretch: The tightrope effect gives very different results on a long jackline versus a short one. Due to the increased fall speed on larger boats, stretchy materials like nylon webbing will be ineffective on boats longer than 25 feet. On boats over 35 feet, even commercial polyester webbing jacklines will stretch farther than the 2.5-foot allowance we used as our baseline, making high-modulus materials very desirable.

Impact: Without some stretch, the sudden stop at the end of a fall could be dangerous, particularly on a smaller boat with a high-modulus jackline. There is no need to use a material lower in stretch than required.

Stress: High-modulus jacklines deliver very high loads to deck fittings, which may be an issue on both small and large boats. On the smallest boats, decks are thinner and even mooring cleats may not be strong enough; on larger boats, weak hardware fittings may reduce the safety factor.

Small boats (shorter than 30 feet): For the smallest boats, nylon webbing-even though it doesn’t quite meet ISAFs strength requirements-provides a safe, dependable alternative. Because the shorter distances involved, the dynamic loads of a fall on a small boat are relatively low, and a nylon jackline functions at a higher safety factor than any other material.

Large boats (40 feet and longer): Based on our findings regarding stress, we are hoping that ISAF will consider upgrading its working load limits for anchors and jackline materials on boats over 40 feet. ISAFs minimum safe working load (SWL) for a webbing jackline is currently 4,500 pounds (before factoring in stretch). Although this seems like a cautious number, in a maximum impact scenario, the jacklines on a large boat that adheres to these minimum guidelines will have a safety factor that is as low as 2:1.

Safety factors: All cordage loses its strength as sunlight and weathering take their toll. Thus, the minimum acceptable 2.4:1 safety factor will diminish over time (the 2.4 safety factor is used by OSHA for climbing and safety gear in like-new condition subjected to a one-time worst case fall-not to be confused with a safe working load). We recommend owners of boats 40 feet or greater aim for jackline materials and deck fittings that can withstand 8,500-pound loads when using high modulus (Dyneema or stainless steel cable) jacklines. This might be considered overkill, but it allows for a conservative safety factor of 2.4:1, a margin that is still less than the 3:1 safety factor that is the norm in other hazardous occupations that require safety tethers.

Product Reviews

The prices in the following product summaries are for a set of two, 35-foot long jacklines. This would be adequate for a 30-foot boat, allowing for an extra 3 feet to tie off or lash as applicable. The exception is the 1-inch nylon webbing, which was a shorter length, since this product is only recommended for smaller boats.

Blue Water Webbing

While not quite up to the ISAF strength standard, Blue Waters 1-inch webbing product is available at outdoor stores like REI (www.rei.com). Commonly used by rock climbers, it has an adequate safety margin and is cheap enough that you can replace it frequently so that it maintains close to its design strength.

This is an acceptable choice for the coastal cruiser in a small boat with a tight budget. It is a little stretchy (which can be reduced by pre-wetting and tensioning), but this is manageable as long as the length does not exceed 20 feet. Provided that you can fabricate strong end connections or use deck cleats, we see no problem using this webbing. It can also serve as an inexpensive cover material for high-modulus jacklines (Dyneema or stainless steel). We found a set of two, 20-foot jacklines for about $19, or 36-cents per foot.

Bottom line: This is the Budget Buy pick for boats shorter than 25 feet. We do not recommend it for jacklines over 20 feet long.

West Marine Webbing

With a 6,000-pound strength, this 1-inch, bright-yellow polyester webbing easily exceeds ISAF standards and is a good design compromise for most boats. Pre-stitched with an eye at one end, the West Marine jacklines are easy to set up on most boats. They easily attach to a bow cleat with a cow hitch, and the tail can be cleated to a stern cleat (allow 3 feet for cleating and adjustment). While this setup is acceptable and inexpensive, a boat ideally will have dedicated attachment points 4 to 5 feet short of the bow and stern.

A set of two 30-foot West Marine jacklines sells for $150.

Bottom line: This jackline is Recommended for all boats up to 40 feet long.

Wichard Lyfsafe Jacklines

The Wichard Lyfsafe jacklines are very similar to the West Marine jacklines but have a full-length, reflective strip. While this can be useful when wearing a headlamp, we rarely do this at night because we want to preserve our night vision. The adjustable buckle was more trouble than it was worth; every time you adjust the length there is a cover to be removed. A lashing or cleat hitch worked better for us-but this is also a matter of preference.

A set of two 27-foot jacklines retails for between $142 and $175 online.

Bottom line: Weve been using both the Lyfsafe and the West Marine jacklines for several years now and cannot detect any real difference between them, except for the Lyfsafes reflective thread. Both are excellent options for boats up to 40 feet.

Mantra Mark IV webbing

Balance Communitys Mantra Mark IV polyester webbing is designed for the sport of slack-lining, a recreational form of tightrope walking; it has been showing up on race boats in the 35- to 45-foot range. This webbing product is stronger than common polyester webbing, lower in stretch, less expensive, and plenty durable. It is available in green or purple.

Prices online run about $75 for a 35-foot set of two. You can add a sewn end loop at each end for $7.

Bottom line: As is often the case with equipment that does not have the marine designation, this product is much more affordable than others in this category. This is our Budget Buy for boats under 40 feet.

Polyester or Nylon rope

Although we did not model any specific half-inch polyester or nylon rope, our test boat (a 34-foot catamaran) has used half-inch, nylon double-braid for many years, and it has served fine on that boat, where the jacklines are rigged along the top edge of the cabin trunk.

Polyester and nylon rope offer considerable stretch, which is beneficial on a catamaran because it moves quickly and there is a potential for a crewmembers body to pick up a fair amount of velocity during a fall. The test boats center-cockpit design makes for very short jacklines (20 feet long on a 34-foot boat) relative to the boats beam (16 feet). Because of high UV resistance and high safety factor, the rope can remain rigged at all times for at least five years. That said, this material is absolutely the wrong choice for most monohulls.

High-quality double-braid from major cordage houses sells for about $1.25 per foot.

Bottom line: Rope is not a recommended jackline material for monohulls; multihulls are a different story, however.

Jackline Materials Evaluation

With relatively low cost, light weight, low-water absorption, and ease of splicing, 12-strand, single-braid, quarter-inch Dyneema can seem like a wonder rope, but it does have its caveats. Although we can’t recommend it for small boats due to the high-impact forces and the loads that it could impart to deck fittings, Dyneema offers reduced stretch for boats less than 30 feet, and is the right answer for boats greater than 40 feet. For boats over 35 feet long, we do recommend upsizing from ISAF requirements (4,500 pounds SWL) to 8,600 pounds. This will give it increased durability, a more acceptable safety factor, and allow for two sailors at the same time. Jackline anchors must match the 8,600-pound rating.

Some sailors demand that the lines be encased in 1-inch webbing to reduce rolling underfoot, and others like them bare to allow the clip to slide smoothly. If we were planning to leave them rigged continuously, we would upsize to 5/16-inch diameter to provide an allowance for UV and wear (even if covered, the ends are bare). You must follow the manufacturers guidance on any splices or lashing used to form loops.

Our pair of 35-foot Dyneema jacklines totaled $160, including the webbing sheath.

Bottom line: This is our Budget Buy for boats 25 to 55 feet long.

Annapolis Performance Sailing

The custom-made jacklines from Annapolis Sailing Performance (APS) are fabricated from quarter-inch Amsteel and 1-inch tubular webbing-similar to our do-it-yourself Dyneema jackline. The APS jacklines include a splice in each end; one end is cow-hitched to a fitting, the other lashed with 1/8-inch Spectra cord, which allows for size adjustment.

Weve sailed with these on race boats and found them to be ideal. Priced at $1.62 per foot, plus $34 labor, means that a pair of 35-foot APS jacklines will run about $215.

Bottom line: These are the Best Choice for boats 25 to 55 feet long.

Stainless Steel

Although quarter-inch stainless steel jacklines are more expensive than webbing and rope options and can impart potentially harmful loads on hardware and falling sailors, stainless-steel cable can be the right answer for boats longer than 50 feet. Stainless steels long service life and imperviousness to sunlight (giving the jacklines the ability to be permanently rigged) are important advantages. We recommend upsizing from the ISAF requirements (4,500 pounds SWL) to 7,500 pounds SWL to increase durability and to allow for up to two sailors on the line at once. Anchor points must also be suitable for the increased load, and the line should be encased in 1-inch webbing to reduce rolling underfoot.

Riggers can assemble stainless-steel jacklines for about $350 per set.

Bottom line: Durability makes these our Best Choice for boats over 50 feet.

Spider Silk Mark II webbing

Made from Vectran, Balance Communitys Spider Silk Mark II 1-inch webbing has stretch comparable to stainless steel cable of the same breaking strength, yet its light weight allows for a monstrous 15,000-pound rating in 1-inch webbing.

Though we have not yet tested Spider Silk in the real world, the specifications are certainly impressive, and it used for slack lining. Vectran typically has excellent flex durability, and although its somewhat vulnerable to UV, the damage levels off after about 500 hours, and there after, its comparable to polyester webbing.

Because of its ultra low stretch, Spider Silk should only be used in lengths over 60 feet. Available in white only, it runs about $242 for a 35-foot set; sewn ends are available for $10.

Bottom line: The specs are impressive, and we are waiting for real-world reports from big boats. Any early-adopters out there?

Conclusions

A harness, tether, and jackline are no guarantee youll stay onboard. The most common failure is that the sailor slips out of his harness, which is loosely fitted over wet foul-weather gear. For maximum security, wear a harness fitted with crotch or leg straps. No matter how fit and broad-shouldered the sailor is, it is always possible to slither out of any harness when your hands are overhead (such as when reaching up toward rescuers).

All of the jackline products we investigated are suitable for certain boats or certain circumstances, but some are simply a bad choice in the wrong application. High-modulus materials can be a bad match for small boats, and larger boats should go beyond ISAF standards to 8,500 pounds when installing high-modulus jacklines. The readily available, commercial polyester jacklines rated for 6,000 pounds safe working load are a good, all-around choice for 30- to 40-foot sailboats.

Jackline Materials Evaluation

  • ISAF Guidelines to Jacklines

Jackline Materials Evaluation

  • Installation Advice
  • Balance Community
  • Blue Water Ropes
  • West Marine

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Installing an Outboard Motor Jack Plate on a Boat

  • By Jim Hendricks
  • Updated: March 24, 2020

Jack plates perform two key functions. One is setback, which distances an outboard from the boat’s transom, allowing the propeller to run in less-turbulent water. Jack plates also move an outboard up and down to optimize performance and enable a boat to venture into shallower water than it might otherwise. Jack plates find the greatest applications on bass boats, bay boats, tunnel hulls and some flats skiffs. There are manual jack plates, but the most versatile models allow for vertical adjustments while underway using electric controls at the helm.

Brands such as Bob’s Machine Shop, CMC, SeaStar Solutions and T-H Marine offer a wide range of models. For this retrofit installation, we chose a SeaStar standard jack plate, which is rated for up to 300 hp and offers 5.8 inches of travel via a hydraulic actuator. Featuring corrosion-resistant powder-coated aluminum construction and stainless-steel hardware, it’s available in setbacks ranging from 4 to 12 inches. We chose one with a setback of 6 inches for our 200 hp outboard on a 21-foot bay boat. With the boat on a trailer, we removed the outboard prior to beginning the installation.

Selecting the Setback

“There is no set rule on setbacks,” says Davor Baros, product manager for SeaStar jack plates. “Boatbuilders test different setbacks to find out which one provides the best performance.” Performance can be affected by flotation at the back of the boat because more setback means moving the center of gravity farther back. Also, the location of trim tabs can affect the need for greater setback to get the prop into cleaner water, Baros reveals. This decision is left to the builders because they know their hulls the best. “For an aftermarket installation, the best thing to do is look at the setbacks similar boats get from builders,” Baros says. “With all that being said, it seems smaller boats favor bigger setbacks, as it provides the engines with cleaner water and more of a fulcrum for hole shot. For bigger boats, they typically go with 4 inches, as more setback just adds weight without speed or hole-shot advantages.”

Skill Level: 3.5 of 5

Finish Time: Approx. 4 to 5 hours

Tools and Supplies

  • SeaStar Solutions JP5060R standard jack plate with 6-inch setback ($1,100, fredwarner1.net)
  • Hoist for removing and reinstalling outboard ($45 per day for 1,500-pound capacity hoist, Sunbelt Rentals)
  • Outboard lifting eye (if the motor is not already equipped with one)
  • Stainless-steel engine and jack-plate mounting hardware (as supplied or recommended by the engine manufacturer)
  • Socket wrench set
  • Box/open-end wrench set
  • Torque wrench
  • Transom stiffener plate for upper transom mounting bolts ($22.95 for T-H Marine TSP2DP, iboats.com )
  • Marine below-the-waterline sealant, such as 3M 4000 UV
  • Crimping tool
  • Mounting screws for relays

The four 1/2-inch OD outboard manufacturer- supplied mounting bolts must be fitted to the jack plate prior to installation. Insert each through the SeaStar-supplied 1/2-inch washers, and then from the transom side of the outboard mounting plate through the bolt holes. Loosely thread on the mounting nuts to prevent the bolts from falling out until you’re ready for step five. Temporarily connecting the wire harness might also allow you to actuate the jack plate to access the engine mounting holes.

Tip: If the setback is 10 inches or the outboard is over 250 hp, six bolts are required for mounting the engine to the jack plate, and the jack plate to the transom. A transom stiffener for the upper bolts is recommended regardless of setback or horsepower.

Use 1/2-inch OD bolts with locking nuts and washers supplied or approved by the outboard manufacturer. Each bolt must be long enough to pass through the transom and jack-plate mounting surface, and provide enough thread for the washer and locknut. Apply below-the-waterline marine sealant to the mounting holes in the transom and insert the mounting bolts through the transom (from the inside) and through the jack-plate mount. Attach a washer and locknut, and tighten to the recommended torque specs.

Check for Clearance

Starting with the jack plate at its lowest position, verify full steering travel through the entire trim range. At the full down position with steering at center, carefully tilt the engine to verify if interference occurs as the outboard is tilted, paying close attention to the steering cylinder, tie bars, steering hoses, engine rigging and the outboard itself. If interference exists, add a tilt-limiting device or move the motor up to a higher set of mounting holes.

Find a dry, accessible place near the stern of the boat to mount the two relays. Use mounting screws (not supplied) to secure them, using the mounting holes on the up- and down-relay brackets. Plug in the wiring harness to the relays and route the other end of the harness to the starting battery. Attach the ring terminal from the circuit breaker to the 12-volt DC-positive post on the starting battery, and the black ring terminal to the negative post. Plug in the actuator connector to the pigtail from the jack plate.

Cut an appropriate rectangular opening in the dash. Route the two switch wires (blue/white and green/white) from the relay harness to the hole. Connect a 10-amp-fused wire to a 12-volt source on the breaker panel and route through the hole. Crimp on female spade connectors to each wire. Connect the 12-volt wire to the center spade on the switch, with the blue/white lead to the bottom spade and green/white to the top spade. Don’t seat the switch into the dash until after the rest of the installation is complete.

Read Next: How to Make Your Boat Faster

Tip: Many jack-plate brands also offer gauges to indicate outboard height. The optional SeaStar SmartStick/gauge kit ($290.86, boatstore.com ), for example, includes a sensor, wire harness, and 2-inch gauge for the dash.

Use a hoist to lift and maneuver the outboard. Select the mounting hole on the outboard bracket that will best suit your boat and application. Move the engine into position. Feed the outboard bolts on the jack plate into the mounting holes on the engine bracket. Fit each bolt with a washer and locknut, and use a torque wrench to tighten to 90 foot-pounds, or the engine manufacturer’s recommended value. Use the rocker switch to test for clearance, then seat the switch on the dash.

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Cole Brauer becomes first American woman to race sailboat alone and nonstop around world

A CORUNA, Spain (AP) — Alone, Cole Brauer braved three oceans and the elements as she navigated her sailboat for months.

When she and her 40-foot (12.2-meter) sailboat arrived Thursday in A Coruna, Spain, the 29-year-old became the first American woman to race nonstop around the world by herself, traveling across about 30,000 miles (48,280 kilometers).

Brauer, all 5-foot-2 (1.6-meter) and 100 pounds (45.4 kilograms) of her, is one of more than a dozen sailors competing in the Global Solo Challenge. Brauer was the youngest and only woman in the group that set sail in October from A Coruna.

The starts were staggered. Brauer took off Oct. 29. As of Thursday, some in the field had dropped out of the race.

The race took Brauer south along the west coast of Africa, around the Cape of Good Hope and then eastward toward Australia. From there, she continued east where Brauer faced the unpredictable, treacherous and deadly Cape Horn at the southern tip of South America before continuing northeast across the Atlantic Ocean toward Spain.

The race took her 130 days to complete.

“This is really cool and so overwhelming in every sense of the word,”  NBC News reported  Brauer saying before drinking Champagne from her trophy Thursday while being celebrated by family and fans.

While Brauer is the first American woman to circumnavigate the globe alone by sea, she is not first woman to do so. Polish sailor Krystina Chojnowska-Liskiewicz finished her 401-day voyage around the globe on April 21, 1978, according to  online sailing sites .

Kay Cottee of Australia was the first woman to achieve the feat nonstop, sailing off from Sydney Harbor in Australia in November 1987 and returning 189 days later.

The global voyage is not an easy one, even on a vessel with a full crew.

“Solo sailors, you have to be able to do everything,” Brauer  told the NBC “Today” show  Thursday. “You need to be able to take care of yourself. You need to be able to get up, even when you’re so exhausted. And you have to be able to fix everything on the boat.”

Satellite communications allowed Brauer to stay in touch with her racing team and connect with fans on social media, where she posted videos from the race and her boat, “First Light.”

Along the way she encountered 30-foot (9.1-meter) waves that tossed her about the boat, according to NBC News.

She injured a rib and even gave herself an IV to fend off dehydration.

Sailing solo means not just being a skipper but a project manager, said Marco Nannini, the race’s organizer. That means steering the vessel, making repairs, knowing the weather and keeping yourself healthy, he said.

“The biggest asset is your mental strength, not the physical one,” Nannini said. “Cole is showing everyone that.”

One of Brauer’s social media posts from Dec. 8 showed her frustration.

“I haven’t really had the bandwidth to get into everything that’s been going on the past 48 hours, but the short version is the autopilot has been acting up again and I needed to replace some parts and do a rudder recalibration,” she wrote. “For once the light air is actually helping, but it’s been exhausting, and I’m sore and tired.”

“It’s all part of the journey, and I’m sure I’ll be feeling better once the work is done and I’ve gotten some sleep,” Brauer added. “But right now things are tough.”

But she’s handled the tough, even though some in the sport believed it wouldn’t be possible due to her gender and small frame.

“I push so much harder when someone’s like, ‘no, you can’t do that,’ or ‘you’re too small,’” Brauer said.

“It would be amazing if there was just one other girl that saw me and said ‘Oh, I can do that, too,’” she added.

Copyright 2024 The Associated Press. All rights reserved.

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IMAGES

  1. Installing Jacklines on Our Sailboat

    how to install jack lines on a sailboat

  2. Jackline Installation Advice

    how to install jack lines on a sailboat

  3. How to Install a Sailboat Jackline

    how to install jack lines on a sailboat

  4. How To Install Lazy Jacks

    how to install jack lines on a sailboat

  5. Jacklines: Materials, Fabrication and Installation

    how to install jack lines on a sailboat

  6. Jacklines

    how to install jack lines on a sailboat

VIDEO

  1. On The Fly Manual Jack Plate on a Tracker 15 Jon Boat #boat #outdoors #boating #skiff #adventure

  2. JACK PLATE REPAIR

  3. Jack Lines

  4. How to get install Jack 📲 Mobile ka charger pin ko ghar per hi lagaen

  5. WE FIXED OUR LAZY JACKS

  6. Every Boat Should Have One!! or Two!

COMMENTS

  1. Jackline Installation Tips

    Jacklines should stop well short of the bow. Fast boats, multihulls in particular, can hurl a person forward when the bow stuffs into a wave. The cockpit should have at least one dedicated fixed point for clipping into. Consider installing dedicated clip-in points (padeyes) at other work stations-i.e. at the mast, or at the bow.

  2. How to Install a Dyneema Sailboat Jackline

    We will show you what a Dyneema jack line is, how it is constructed, and how to install one on your sailboat.

  3. How to set up jacklines & tethers

    Join Date: Jan 2012. Location: Pangaea. Posts: 10,856. Re: How to set up jacklines & tethers. Run a two part system. Run two lines from the mast forward to your bow attachment point, and your aft lines from the stern to the mast keeping them as inboard as possible, inside the shrouds.

  4. Jackline Installation Advice

    Jacklines should stop well short of the bow. Fast boats, multihulls in particular, can hurl a person forward when the bow stuffs into a wave. The cockpit should have at least one dedicated fixed point for clipping into. Consider installing dedicated clip-in points (padeyes) at other work stations-i.e. at the mast or at the bow.

  5. Stay Safe at Sea With a Custom Jackline System

    But the worst part is that these deaths could easily be avoided if the sailor had installed a safe and useful jackline system. Longtime Sailrite customer Captain Donald Quackenbush is a veteran sailor with 28 years and 100,000 miles of sailing experience. He's been a 100 Ton U.S. Coast Guard Master Captain for 20 years and, as a member of the ...

  6. How to Use Jacklines for Sailing Safety!

    Captain John with 25+ years of experience shows you the no-nonsense cruising skills you need for safer sailing worldwide. Visit his website at https:--www.sk...

  7. Installing Jacklines on Our Sailboat

    Installing jacklines is one of the boat work projects on the to do list before we take our first shakedown sail to Catalina Island. See how we avoid a common...

  8. Jackstays and Jacklines- The options for the cruising sailor

    1. Jacklines should be attached to through-bolted or welded deck plates on the port and starboard sides of the center line. They are to provide secure attachments for safety harness tethers. These lines should be made of uncoated stainless steel wire or webbing of equivalent strength. Multihulls should have at least two jacklines fitted on the ...

  9. Jacklines: Materials, Fabrication and Installation

    Bottomline, it's surprising how beefy a jackline anchor point needs to be. For example, the Harken small round pad eye in the graphic above, with a safe working load of 4300 lbs (1950 kgs) (when the load is horizontal and in line), is probably just adequate, since the break load is 8600 lbs (3900 kgs).. But this fitting is 2.25″ (57 mm) in diameter!

  10. Chest High Jacklines

    Even if you prefer using a standard jackline, a well engineered chest-high lifeline to can be a backup, and offer an added measure of safety. Amanda and John Neal spend seven months at sea sailing 10,000 miles a year while leading sailing training expeditions. The have more than 750,000 sea miles combined experience.

  11. Jack Lines

    Jack Lines on a 37 Cutter I run mine similar to Ed: from the stern cleats, along the side of the cabin and then through the staysail padeye on the foredeck (not available on your 33, so you would need one of your 'omega' fittings just aft of the anchor locker) and then back along the cabin to the stern cleat on the opposite side.

  12. Using Jacklines and Tethers

    Staying windward and clipping to the jackline on that side means if you fall, you'll end up on the boat and not in the water. Double clip when you aren't moving. Leave one end of your tether on the jackline, but you can loop the other end around a shroud, cleat, or other hard point on the boat as a backup. Do NOT clip to the lifelines.

  13. Installing Lazy Jack Slits in a Sail Cover

    Installing Lazy Jack Slits in a Sail Cover Video provides step-by-step instructions on how to install slits for the passage of lazy jack lines through a sail cover. Some sail covers utilize lazy jack lines and therefore require additional slits in the cover to accommodate these lines.

  14. Stay Safe at Sea With a Custom Jackline System

    The three key parts of the captain's jackline system are the location of the padeyes, the length and construction of the jacklines, and the short legs of the "Y" tether. We'll cover all three aspects below and show you how to install this lifesaving jackline system on your boat. Captain Quackenbush has installed his jackline system on ...

  15. Where to install a Jack line, and what to use?

    On my boat, I ran the webbing between the two aft cleats, then brought them together in the middle, tied them with a double overhand knot, then ran them up both sides of the mast to the bow cleat. This way, I can go all the way to the bow on either side of the boat without having to unclip to get past the mast or using a double clip set-up on ...

  16. Banishing Sidedeck Jacklines Forever

    You often see crew using their tether to steady themselves as they move around the boat. But as the above photo shows, with sidedeck jacklines this is at best a small reduction in fall risk and at worst an illusional benefit, since the tether is attached to a line at one's feet and is therefore adding almost no real stability. On the other ...

  17. Safety Lines

    suggest that you install two jack lines, port and starboard between a bow cleat and stern cleat. In practice the experienced opinions tell you to always clip onto the windward jack line to reduce the chance of being "keel hauled". ... If you are using the Jack lines when sailing solo, then by all means add some sort of rope ladder or step to ...

  18. Lazyjacks for Your Mainsail

    The simplest possible system involves having the risers of the lazyjacks (1/4in pre-stretched line) secured to padeyes about 50-60 percent up the mast, or just above the spreaders. The legs are secured to the boom about two-thirds of the way abaft the gooseneck, taken up about 6ft and through small blocks or stainless steel rings on the falls ...

  19. Jackline Materials Evaluation

    It can also serve as an inexpensive cover material for high-modulus jacklines (Dyneema or stainless steel). We found a set of two, 20-foot jacklines for about $19, or 36-cents per foot. Bottom line: This is the Budget Buy pick for boats shorter than 25 feet. We do not recommend it for jacklines over 20 feet long.

  20. PDF STACKPACK INSTALLATION MANUAL

    • Locate the lazy jack, neatly coiled and hanging from the acrylic cover on each side of the sail. • Locate the lazy jack adjustment cleats fastened to the sail in the tack area just inside the acrylic cover. • Locate tail of line hanging from each cleat. Adjust the tails so that four feet of line extends through the cleat.

  21. Installing Lazy Jack Slits in a Sail Cover

    http://www.sailrite.com/Installing-Lazy-Jack-Slits-in-a-Sail-Cover-Video A sail cover that utilizes lazy jack lines will sometimes require additional slits i...

  22. Installing an Outboard Motor Jack Plate on a Boat

    Feed the outboard bolts on the jack plate into the mounting holes on the engine bracket. Fit each bolt with a washer and locknut, and use a torque wrench to tighten to 90 foot-pounds, or the engine manufacturer's recommended value. Use the rocker switch to test for clearance, then seat the switch on the dash.

  23. Cole Brauer becomes first American woman to race sailboat alone and

    A CORUNA, Spain (AP) — Alone, Cole Brauer braved three oceans and the elements as she navigated her sailboat for months. When she and her 40-foot (12.2-meter) sailboat arrived Thursday in A Coruna, Spain, the 29-year-old became the first American woman to race nonstop around the world by herself, traveling across about 30,000 miles (48,280 kilometers).

  24. How to Mount Hydraulic Jack Plate on Your Boat

    The experts at Two Rivers Boatworks explain how they properly lineup and install a jack plate and motor on the Skimmer Skiff project.