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These plans are for a small 15 foot knockabout sailboat.

I like these plans for their ease. Building a smaller boat is a lot more attainable than a cabin cruiser! And these plans get right to the specifics of building. From the plans:

ANY SAILBOAT fancier will like "Tramp," the trim, 15-ft. knockabout that's so easy to build in plywood. The first operation is to cut the stem, transom and side planks and assemble the forms.

Use casein or waterproof glue under the butt strap joining the side planks together. Forms can be made of almost any scrap material on hand. If you are a good enough mechanic, they can be dispensed with and correctly beveled frames made to their exact shape can be placed permanently in the boat. Screw-fasten the oak frame at sides and bottom on the inside of the transom. Then notch out the bottom of the frame to receive the keel batten...

The transom is placed last and must be beveled so that the side planks fit tightly against the cleats and the transom edge. Be sure to place white lead and a thin thread of cotton between planks and stem and transom prior to joining them together...

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Home » LIST of WOODEN BOAT PLANS – By Michael Storer » 15 1/2 ft Rowboat Easy Build in Plywood

15 1/2 ft Rowboat Easy Build in Plywood

The Storer Rowboat is a pretty and fairly fast plywood rowboat plan that is easy to build. The shape is derived from the famous Goat Island Skiff sailboat plan which rows fast without much effort. This rowboat will be fast and responsive under oars.

Buy Rowboat Plans Here $75

Basic Dimensions of MSD Plywood Rowboat Plan

Length 15 ft 6 inches x 4ft beam Estimated weight 90lbs Plans $75 including detailed instructions

  • Payload – one person – second person or a couple of children and picnic things are OK too.
  • A swift rowing boat for one person – with the capability of carrying an extra person (or two if they are not toooo heavy) for fishing or picnics.
  • Easy construction – but an easily driven shape that is rewarding to row.
  • Large enclosed buoyancy for safety – 8ft oars no outriggers

PDF Plans by email – $75. See list of agents top left on this page or click here .

There is a report about one being built here on the OZ woodwork forums.. And now another one And another one

General Comments about the Storer Rowboat.

This design has had a very long gestation – over two years. My normal well-documented plans were around half way finished and I just couldn’t continue with this boat for oars – a sure sign there was something I wasn’t quite happy with. I scrapped the whole thing and started again a few weeks ago.

Generally I don’t design boats to order. In this case two emails from old boatbuilding friends prompted the development of this boat for oars. Initially I headed in the direction of something much more racey. But then realised that Peter and Richard wanted speed but with more flexibility.

The racey version was finally rejected when Peter asked me about where he was going to cut the bait!

So it evolved in a more sensible direction.

The front and back seats take up a lot of the boat length for a safety factor. But also to push the passengers toward the middle of the boat so the stern and bow do not drag. The middle seat is very wide so there can be two sets of rowlock sockets – front one for when there is a passenger in the back. It can be used for storage or batteries if using a electric trolling outboard.

The Never Ending Dory

For some time I had thought of using the Goat Island Skiff (GIS) design as the basis for a plywood rowboat – more slender, lighter, lower. Thus catching the wind less.

Here were the models of the GIS with the Rowboat plan prototype. Not to same scale. they are the same length.

Stability under oars

It also is a response to the number of lightweight plywood dory designs that are around these days. Old dories weighed hundreds of pounds and were around 20ft long overall and are reputed to need a good load of fish to make them into stable platforms under oars. Consequently shrink them and lighten them and the stability drops off very rapidly.  This plywood Rowboat has ample.

Tom really wanted to show this to me under oars when I met him north of Newcastle for the photos.

Why we didn’t use a dory as a base for the Rowboat plan.

First of all … there are too many dory designs. Many of them nondescript.

Of the modern, shorter, lightweight dorys, the better ones of the modern kind paddle very easily but are tender  until you have a load aboard and their speed under oars is limited by the short waterline. The worse ones are so twitchy as to be almost useless.

Some try to fudge a dory shape by having curved clinker sides. But then you lose the simplicity. This rowboat is not really suited to wavey oceans, though one who uses his off the coast of Maine enjoys it. Most will be used in estuaries are rivers where there is a chop.

Tom under oars.

Talking with the Row Boat Designer: The Emails from Peter

Peter wrote:

On thinking about the rowing boat brief…. n o, dash it all NO passengers, if she wants to come we’ll go in Gruff (ie the Goat Island Skiff) or the canoe! Sooo… two sheets of ply long, needs to be a bit more utilitarian than a shell, so that one can cast a line or pick up a crab pot. But really it’s a boat for the sheer pleasure of going for a row. I don’t know too much about rowing properly, but a sliding seat option may be ok?? Has to be pretty, which is why I’m keen for you to look at it! The Goat Island Skiff with a foot out of the beam??

My response: Was to say, yes, yes, yes – but Richard had slightly different criteria as far as payload.

And from Richard, the other client.

Richard wrote:

For efficient rowing on the river (Murray) – so against current, some chop, wake from power boats, but not open ocean or rough water. Come to think of it, the wake thrown up by your average yahoo driven ski boat probably qualifies for ‘rough water’. Especially as I’ll often have my little daughter in the ‘boss’s seat’. Will be used for fishing (I sit when I fish in a boat) and exploring. Cheap to build without sacrificing usability. Light – although this boat will be carried on a trailer, it will be launched and recovered from river banks, not boat ramps. Light enough to car top or for one person to carry would be nice but not essential. I’m after a tough, light, utility boat, not an ultra-light weapon. Enough floatation for safety if swamped – I’m not some panic merchant who expects it to float on its water line when full of water – just high enough to get back into.

My Response: Again – Yes. A move toward general use as Richard describes willl also make the plans more interesting to more people.

She will float a little deep with three aboard. But keeping the base of the transom narrow and shallow any bad effects will be minimal. I think she will prefer to carry three lighter individuals or a heavier adult a lighter adult and a child. Truthfully she will be at her best one up.

A Quick Model to give us an idea of the actual shape the rowboat plan was converging on

I drew up shape on the computer and emailed some panel outlines so models could be made by both interested parties – they are both experienced boatbuilders.

The photos of the plywood rowboat plan model arrived the next morning! Peter whipped it up overnight and photographed it with the red timber glowing in the morning light. The white boat is the model of the Goat Island Skiff that Peter built years ago. Scale is approximately similar.

The version that has been developed since has more side panel flare to give a larger beam for more stability and to carry 8ft oars without outriggers.

Boat Aesthetics

Both Peter and Richard were quite happy with the appearance from the model – as was I.

On double checking the dimensions and found that the bow had crept up too high – almost 500mm above the waterline – it would have caught the wind very badly – so it has been reduced but with a fraction more sheer in the stern. The wireframe drawing reflects the current shape.

Technical thinking about the Plywood Rowboat

It is interesting to compare the shape of the rowboat with the Goat Island Skiff  (GIS – below) which was based around an excellent sailing performance.

You can easily see the difference in volume and height from the water.

. Both are simple hullshapes, but rowboats have much less power available.

Wetted Surface

Reduced in the plywood rowboat by narrowing the width of the bottom throughout relative to the GIS particularly in the stern. It was tempting to go toward a canoe stern, but it would sink heavily when a passenger was in the back seat. And stability would be reduced for other uses.

Bottom width

Reduced but the width at the gunwale retained to provide a good base for oars. Oar length is approximately twice the beam so if the beam becomes too small then the oars have to shrink too – for less efficiency.

Prismatic co-efficient (C P )

A measure of how much volume is in the ends of the boat. Light sailing boats like the sail powered GIS can easily average 6 to 8 knots so need extra volume in the stern and bow at speed. The plywood rowboat will only ever get up to around 3.5 to 4 knots so the C P needs to be lower. It was hard to achieve the exact numbers required because of the transom width so we have gone as far as possible. Getting rid of the passenger and having a canoe stern would make it easier to get the right numbers.

It ends up looking quite a delicate little thing.

Naming Rights

The MSD Rowing Skiff is a rowing boat derived from the Goat Island Skiff with less beam and less windage making it nicer as a wooden rowboat.

I haven’t come up with the right name for this boat yet so it remains the MSD Rowing Skiff. It actually fits nicely within my range – some people build the Goat Island Skiff to serve as a rowboat where it is more than adequate when fitted with a skeg. But where less capacity, more speed for the same effort and the ability to cartop (narrower and lighter) is more important the Rowing Skiff will be more suitable. Plans are $75 and the boat will use up 4 sheets of 6mm ply. Agents listed top left of every page.

10 thoughts on “15 1/2 ft Rowboat Easy Build in Plywood”

Hi Michael!

Sailing is my passion. I love the design of the GIS, but I need something lighter. I would want to use a balanced lug rig. Any suggestions you might have, I would certainly appreciate!

Fair winds!

The GIS is probably the lightest boat in its class and is significantly lighter than most boats with the same capacity. Often half or a third of the weight of similar boats. Not many 130lb 16ft boats that will take four adults and still sail really well.

To get less weight you will have to go smaller and with less capacity. That is part of the reason I’ve been drawn to design sailing canoes. People do want lighter and more portable boats. So to cut the width and capacity makes a huge weight savings.

Of my range there is the Viola canoe for one person sailing. And the Kombi Canoe for two.

Best Regards Michael

Hello, I’m interested in this rowboat – I fly fish on a small lake, seated in a rowboat, so I prefer low side panels like this one. A few questions: 1) is it a stitch and glue construction? 2) how is it kept water tight? Fiberglassed seams? 3) can it be built with standard plywood? I’d like to keep costs down. Thanks, Michael Hamilton, Kanata, ON, CA

Hi Michael.

If you decide to go ahead with a stitch and glue version please contact me for a revised bottom panel. The current panel for the framed construction is drawn a little oversized and is trimmed after. With stitch and glue, it needs to be accurate.

To make the seams with stitch and glue the outside gets glassed with 2″/50mm wide glass tape.

On the inside, there are several options. Epoxy fillets. Glass tape. Or tiny fillets and glass tape which allows the glass on the inside to take a better radius.

The side arms on the bulkheads should not be omitted.

Yes… you can build with standard ply but the weight of the boat will be about 25% more than the gaboon/okoume plywood version. That is OK. The main thing is to make sure the standard ply is reasonable quality. Don’t use Douglas Fir ply as it checks badly – gets surface cracks in the paint after building.

Can this row boat be easily converted to a sail boat?

It could be. I would recommend a centrecase and centreboard. I can help provide information to make it into an excellent sailboat. Please email me to talk about what you want to do and if it is feasible.

Best Regards Michael Storer [email protected]

Twist my arm a little on the two people in the boat aspect. Let’s assume that folks aren’t overweight, a 165 pound rower and 120 pound guest aft. OK? Any pictures with two people aboard? I’m told I’m to mention that I’m a member of the Coots-

There are some assumptions in the design. Certainly the wide stern compared to many rowing boats will make it somewhat better in terms of the trim not becoming crazy with a passenger in a narrower stern.

My assumption was, that when there was a passenger the idea would be to relax, chat, sightsee etc. So the compensation mechanism is that very wide rowing thwart. Solo … sit conventionally.

Cruising – move as far forward as possible on the wide mid seat (alternate rowlock position) to compensate for the person in the stern.

If wanting to get to places with two aboard then a 10 litre water jug in the bow would pull the bow down … and could only be shipped, filled and emptied when actually needed.

If building a version, like many rowboats, without buoyancy tanks the seat could move to different locations. Would still need the mid frame, but it could be moved further forward to be out of the way of all the mid seat locations.

INTERESTED, PLANS FOR 15-1/2 ROW BOAT WHAT THICKNESS IS PLYWOOD ? AND CAN I USE HEAVER ?

THANK YOU GIL HART

Plan is for 6mm (1/4″) plywood. Preferably Gaboon to keep the weight down.

There has been one built with 4mm sides and other components and the 6mm bottom.

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       I’m Arch Davis – I learned boatbuilding and design in New Zealand in the 1970s. I have been helping people to build beautiful wooden boats since 1988. You can see a few of them by clicking on Picture Gallery . My approach to design is to put into your hands the means to use modern materials – marine plywood and epoxy resin – to build a truly lovely boat with classic lines.

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Boatbuilding with Plywood

For most amateurs, plywood is the material of choice. Plywood is one of the cheapest and easiest building materials, one that the average do-it-yourselfer is both familiar and comfortable with. Plywood is also, pound for pound, stronger than steel. Because of its high strength to weight, plywood construction yields a boat that is much lighter and performs better than a “chopper gun” fiberglass boat. When used with the GLEN-L Epoxy Encapsulation System, plywood is as long lasting and as low in maintenance as any other material. No exotic tools are required, and with the possible exception of enough C-clamps, plywood boats can be built with the tools in the average home workshop. Plywood boats are frequently built in school wood shops or by youth groups as individual or group projects. To take full advantage of the material, our Plans and Patterns detail simplified construction methods geared to the abilities of the amateur. No difficult woodworking procedures, such as steam bending, are ever required, and the GLEN-L pattern system makes the difficult lofting procedure unnecessary.

Plywood is used as a “sheet” material in the majority of plywood boats, including Stitch-N-Glue. Plywood is also used in “cold-molded” construction and “multi-diagonal” planking. On each design page the method is listed under “Hull” in Characteristics.

SHEET PLYWOOD: This is the most common type of construction used by the home builder. Plywood is used in panels of one or two layers. This requires a minimum of cutting and fitting and requires much fewer frames than most “traditional” planking methods. For a look at the steps in plywood boatbuilding in more detail see our Sheet Plywood Pictorial Guide with captions .

COLD-MOLDED or MULTI-DIAGONAL: This method is utilized on round bilge hulls or hulls with compound shapes. The method involves cutting the plywood into strips (widths vary depending on curve), and laying up layers at angles to each other, glued and fastened. Epoxy is the recommended adhesive. Multi-diagonal Planking Pictorial Guide.

Uncommon Answers to Some Common Questions by Ken Hankinson, Naval Architect:

C ertain questions about plywood and its use in boatbuilding crop up time and again. Usually these are based on a desire to get the most value for the least bucks, to save time and effort, and to assure a level of quality that’s acceptable to the builder. Note that I didn’t say that builders ALL want ultimate top quality, and that’s intended. Just as in production boats, top quality is not always demanded, needed, nor expected. After all, not all boats need to last so long that they become exhibits in museums.

Q: Must all plywood used for boatbuilding be waterproof?

A:  Basically there are three plywood grades; Interior, Exterior, and Marine. The typical assumption is that plywood used in boats must be made with waterproof glue. However, the accepted standard for such a glue is one whose bonds will survive a boil test. How many boats are ever subjected to boiling water conditions? None I know of.

Fact is, for generations, countless plywood boats have been glued together successfully with low-cost powder-water mix plastic resin glue (a urea-formaldehyde product). And while highly water-resistant, this glue won’t survive a boil test and is thus not considered totally waterproof. But it will survive hundreds of consecutive cycles of immersion in water at room temperatures.

The point is, Interior grade plywood is not rated for exterior or marine use where such panels may be exposed to moisture because grading standards permit non-waterproof glues in their manufacture. However, does this mean that such a panel might fail if exposed to exterior or marine conditions? Perhaps not if it is assembled with a highly water-resistant glue such as plastic resin. But one won’t know if such a glue has been used. Thus I ordinarily advise  NEVER  to use Interior plywood in a boat strictly because the standards permit use of a non-waterproof glue. Besides, the practice is penny-wise and pound-foolish. For structural members, stick to either Exterior or Marine panels.

Q: When should I use Marine plywood?

A:  Some feel ONLY Marine plywood should be used for hull planking. But I think this is too rigid a rule. The important quality separating Marine grade from Exterior panels is the quality and soundness of the inner plies and their construction (both are made with waterproof glues as noted above). With the Marine panel, there should be no major voids or surface defects, and inner veneer joints (if they occur) should be tightly fitted.

That said, using Marine plywood is most critical in my opinion where panels must conform to rather extreme curvatures (the bow in most boats, especially the bottom), and for boats built with “stitch-and-glue” methods. Another case where Marine plywood would be highly advised is on boats intended for high speeds and/or severe service.

Here’s some reasoning. You might be able to save some bucks by using Exterior plywood for planking curved areas. And experience tells me that once such a panel has been bent into place, if it doesn’t fracture in the process, it will probably stay that way forever without incidence.

But the problem with lower-quality panels is that you may not always see the voids. And if your panel does break while you are installing it due to hidden voids, you will have to replace it with another, thus making the cost about comparable to what you would have spent on the better Marine panel in the first place. And there’s no guarantee that the next panel won’t fail as well.

As for “stitch-and-glue” construction, a void-free panel for planking is important so that the wire ties at joints don’t pull out under tension, which is likely to occur if stitching holes need to be located coincidentally with a void that suddenly crops up once the panel has been cut to shape. Such panels are also easier to work with for the same reasons when used for internal members and bulkheads on “stitch-and-glue” boats.

Q: When can I get by with Exterior plywood?

A:  Other than as stated above, I’m not against using a good grade of Exterior plywood (for example, AB) for planking, and I’ve never heard of a boat falling apart because of it. You may have to make some repairs to the panel (e.g., fill voids) which can get tedious and is not always successful. But in flatter hull areas such panels will suffice for most boats. Exterior panels (with any major defects repaired when possible) can usually also be used for most internal members throughout a boat without problem for such items as transoms, gussets, bulkheads, etc.

In fact, I’m not totally against using lesser-quality AC plywood for planking on certain boats. In case you don’t know, an AC panel can have open and exposed defects on the C-side. But since the boat will probably by sheathed with fiberglass, some builders use the C-side outside and fill all the defects with resin putty prior to fiberglass application; they become invisible once painted. On smaller, simpler, low-powered boats without a lot of curvature, I see nothing wrong with this practice, and again, have not heard of such a boat disintegrating over time because of it.

Q: Why should I cover my plywood boat with fiberglass?

A:  We generally recommend covering all plywood boats with fiberglass no matter how small. While some complain of an increase in weight, this is seldom more than an ounce or two per square foot of area in the typical application. Then too, even lightweight coverings (say 4 ounce cloth) are better than nothing.

When I speak of covering the outside of plywood boats with fiberglass, I use the term generically; you can use other fabrics such a Dynel or polypropylene, but fiberglass gives the best combination of price, ease of application, ready-availability, and protection in my opinion. Whichever fabric you select, the reasons for applying the covering are the same; added abrasion resistance, improved durability, extra reinforcing for finish coatings (especially at joints), reduced maintenance, better appearance, and to help insure against leaks.

Thus sheathings should be considered as basically cosmetic coverings; their intent is NOT to add strength. In fact, plywood is far stiffer than fiberglass. Hull strength comes from the plywood hull structure itself, and with proper design and construction, should prove more than adequate.

Glen-L carries epoxy , fiberglass cloth and application materials .

Q: What happens if I don’t sheathe my plywood boat with fiberglass?

A:  If it is made with Douglas fir ( a reasonably tough material), surface checking and wavy surfaces will soon occur even if painted. These will be very difficult to alleviate even if the boat gets painted each season. Other plywood types with a more uniform grain pattern will fare better in this regard, but these will still require routine coating applications. And because many species of plywood are not as tough as fir, they will more easily suffer damage without sheathing.

If you absolutely insist on not sheathing your plywood boat, consider using medium-density overlay (MDO) panels. These still require routine coating, but the overlay prevents surface checking and presents a smooth paint-ready surface. These do cost more and may not be readily available, however.

Q: Epoxy resins sound great but they cost too much. Can I use polyesters for sheathings instead?

A:  We quit offering polyester resins for sheathing application years ago simply because we no longer believed in them anymore for this purpose. Our feeling is that as long as you’re going to the trouble, you should use epoxy resins if at all possible; they’re worth the extra cost. The main reason is that they stick forever, and if you’re using as epoxy encapsulation system, (also highly advised), they are the only choice.

That said, if you are on a budget, polyesters are acceptable if you do it right, but they don’t have true adhesive properties. Finish results with either otherwise appear the same, but polyesters are less flexible and resilient so tend to crack more easily over time. When this occurs, water can creep behind the sheathing and cause problems.

As for the encapsulation process where all wood surfaces inside and out get coated, do NOT substitute polyesters this way in place of epoxies. Polyester resins simply don’t work the same; they don’t stick or apply well, and because of their lack of elasticity, crack easily which can promote rot due to entrapped moisture.

See the epoxies available from Glen-L.

Q: Epoxy glues may be superior but I’m allergic to them – what’s next best for plywood boatbuilding?

A:  Because the stresses on a plywood boat are ultimately transferred to joints in the hull, a hard-setting glue (rather than a flexible mastic, for example) is required. As a result, glue choices are few. Prior to epoxies, the traditional stand-by’s were plastic resin and resorcinol. The latter is 100% waterproof while plastic resin is considered “highly water-resistant”. But as discussed above, plastic resin glues can work successfully in plywood boats for all practical purposes.

Currently resorcinol costs more than epoxies, and offers no benefits over plastic resin glue in my opinion. Unlike epoxies, both need well-fitted joints, specific limited temperatures, heavy clamping pressure, and leave colored glue lines. Since plastic resin glues don’t stain and clean up easily, mix with water, and are a fraction of the cost of resorcinol, they’re my choice in lieu of epoxies.

The only other alternative I’m aware of and have used with good results in the past is Aerolite, a water-resistant urea-formaldehyde based product by Ciba-Geigy sometimes imported from England but seldom found. This uses a powder-water mix along with a second liquid component, dries clear, and has some gap-filling properties. Once popular with kit airplane builders, it may still be available from suppliers in that field.

Glen-L’s Poxy Grip is an excellent adhesive for your Glen-L boat.

Q: Can I increase fiberglass thickness in order to get by with thinner plywood or compensate for lower quality plywood?

A:  I don’t know how this line of thinking evolved, but the question keeps coming up. Primarily it involves the fallacy that plywood is weaker than, and inferior to, fiberglass. Keep in mind that while fiberglass is strong in tensile strength, it is not very stiff. Conversely, plywood is actually stronger on a weight basis in both tension and compression. More to the point, the modulus of elasticity (stiffness) is actually much higher for plywood than fiberglass for the same thickness.

Then too, for some reason many who ask this question think fiberglass is lighter and will thus save weight. This myth is quickly dispelled when a piece of each material gets thrown into a pond of water and the fiberglass sinks like a stone while the plywood floats.

So the simple answer is that if you reduce plywood thickness and make up the difference with fiberglass laminate, you get not only a more flexible panel, but one that weighs a lot more. It will also add considerably to your cost and effort. And if this question is asked because thicker panels are not available, the answer is to use a double thickness of plywood rather than attempt to make up the difference with fiberglass.

Q: Why is Marine plywood so expensive?

A:  As for domestic panels, my first reaction to this question is that we’re fortunate to have any Marine plywood available regardless of the price. Of the total amount of plywood produced in this country, less than 1/10 of 1 percent is Marine grade. Environmental and economic factors, coupled with very modest demand should warrant even higher prices in the eyes of producers. And if you consider the price of plywood compared to other materials, it’s actually a bargain. On a cost per square foot basis, many common materials are considerably more expensive than plywood, such as carpet and resilient floor coverings. And you can’t even build a boat from that stuff.

While imported Marine plywood panels might cost twice as much as the domestic product or more (and we’re again fortunate to have this competition available regardless of the price), this is still a reasonable price compared to other alternatives.

Compared to all the other boatbuilding materials an amateur may use, only steel is cheaper than sheet plywood. And when you consider the speed and ease with which a plywood boat can be built, it’s still the material of choice for most do-it-yourself builders.

Q: Can I make frames out of plywood rather than solid lumber?

A:  This is generally poor practice in the framed plywood boat for several reasons. First, a main reason for using solid lumber for frames is that grain gets oriented in the direction we want for strength. If plywood is used for frame members instead, because of the alternating grain direction of the plies, there is no strength in those veneers in the cross-grain direction. In other words, a plywood frame will need to be nearly double the thickness to have the same strength  (see Fig. 1 below).

Second, longitudinal strength members (e.g., keels, chine logs, sheer clamps, stiffening battens, etc.) that intersect frames will require fastenings at contact points. If the frames are plywood, the edge grain of frames at such intersections will hold fastenings poorly, and if other than Marine panels are used, there is a possibility of voids at a point where they are least desirable.

Third, attempting to bevel or fair such frames when necessary is difficult because of the alternating grain pattern at edges. The tendency is to splinter the frame edges instead.

On the other hand, using plywood for joining sawn frame members via gussets, floor timbers, and the like is excellent because the alternating grain at such connections reduces splitting that would occur if solid wood members were used  (see Fig. 2 below).

FIG 1 – Because of plywood’s cross grain, a plywood frame will be flimsy and not as strong as one from lumber of the same thickness. FIG 2 – However, because of plywood’s cross grain, using gussets, floor timbers, and similar members to join sawn wood frame members will largely prevent splitting at such connections.

Q: If frames shouldn’t be made from plywood, what about stems?

A:  Actually stems from plywood, as long as they are thick enough (1-1/2″ is a nominal minimum) are preferable to solid lumber on the plywood boat. The reason is that a plywood stem is more dimensionally stable due to the cross grain. Such reduction in expansion and contraction reduces any tendency for movement or cracking along the centerline where planking halves join. While it could be argued that the plywood stem presents edge grain for the planking fastenings, in reality the bevels required here allow fastenings to set diagonally to the grain for a solid grip if long enough  (see Fig. 3A) . An acceptable alternative is the stem made with a core of plywood and solid wood on both sides  (see Fig. 3B) .

FIG 3 – A section through a plywood stem (A) shows that because of the bevels required, fastening into edge grain is largely avoided. An alternative is a stem with a plywood core and solid wood either side (B).

Q: Why shouldn’t sheet plywood planking be fastened to transverse frames?

A:  The properly designed plywood planked hull incorporates as much as possible the principles of monocoque or “stress-skin” construction. Stitch-and-glue boats that depend upon glue bonded junctions reinforced with fiberglass tape often show pure adherence to such principles. However, not everyone is willing to trust their fate only to glue bonds; many still favor the extra security that fastenings and some internal framework can provide. After all, such construction has been proven strong and durable for generations whereas stitch-and-glue is still the new kid on the block.

But even when transverse frames are part of the design, it’s the plywood skin that takes the stresses which are ultimately transferred to glued and/or fastened joints at panel edges. And if such panels are fastened across the grain to frames, localized stresses that can lead to failure of the panel can be generated. How so?

Consider a plywood panel curved in place around a hull as being analogous to corrugated cardboard applied in similar fashion with the corrugations running lengthwise. We can pin or tack such a cardboard panel in place all around the edges to hold it in place. But what happens to the cardboard if we perforate it with a bunch of fastening holes crosswise? When bent in place, it would fold and break about the perforations.

The same thing can happen in a sheet of plywood. Placing a row of fastenings across the plywood panels grain can weaken a panel and create a similar condition, especially so when the panel is also under tension due to bending. Conditions are exacerbated on the higher-speed powerboat where panel loads are greatly magnified due to slamming loads while planing.

In short, while frames on the plywood boat may contact planking and be glued at such points, ordinarily such contact is not actually necessary and in fact, frames can usually be relieved from such contact without detriment. In reality, it’s the longitudinal members doing most of the work and this is why planking panels are preferably fastened only to these and at the ends of panels and NOT to frames between.

Q: What about using plywood for sailboat rudders, centerboards, and daggerboards?

A:  If a Marine grade panel is used, and these are thick enough (say 1″ or more), plywood is sometimes acceptable. However, I’ve seen many plywood rudders and daggerboards break in use, and again, the problem is that areas of cross grain within a panel tend to be weak and lead to fracture. Sailors often don’t realize just how much stress can be applied to a rudder turned hard over on the small sailboat or just how much force a capsized sailor exerts while standing on a daggerboard attempting to right the small dinghy.

Another difficulty is that rudders and daggerboards should be faired to an airfoil sectional shape which is not as easy to do with plywood. Thus solid wood is preferable, or you might use a rudder or daggerboard with a plywood core (1/2″ or thicker with solid lumber laminated to both sides  (see Fig. 4A and 4B) . Plywood boards and rudders should be encapsulated with epoxy and fiberglass cloth in any case.

FIG 4 – A section through a sailboat rudder faired to an airfoil below water (A) is difficult to do with plywood; solid wood is preferable. However, one with a plywood core and solid wood each side is acceptable and perhaps preferable for larger rudders where solid wood will tend to split and/or must be glued up from narrower widths (B).

Q: Can I use nails in place of screws for fastening plywood planking and decking?

A: As a general rule on the framed plywood boat, because planking panels carry loads to the panel edges, screws give superior holding ability compared to nails, especially when panels are under the stress of bending. Nails in this situation lack the leverage inherent in screws to maintain this tension if a glue joint lets go for some reason (albeit a rare occurrence).

Conversely, in flatter areas of a hull (especially on small boats or those not intended for high speed or rough water use), and at mid areas within a panel, nails are acceptable if long enough and of ample wire size. In most cases, deck panels can be nailed although I still prefer screws at panel edges in the case of powerboats since the deck is usually an important strength membrane.

While nails may be relatively inexpensive, you should still pre-drill pilot holes for all but the smallest sizes. As for driving screws, do NOT countersink the heads below the outer veneers of the sheet of plywood; the screw should compress all veneers in the panel  (see Fig. 5A and 5B) .

FIG 5 – The “right” way (A) and “wrong” way (B) to drive a screw used to fasten plywood planking. All veneers in the panel should be under compression.

Glen-L carries silicon bronze nails and screws as well as stainless steel fastenings for above the waterline.

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small plywood sailboat plans

IDEA 19 originates in 2005 as a modification of Dudley Dix’s TLC 19, a small GRP trailerable sailboat; at the end of the work the only things left from the original project were hull lines, every other aspect of the project was refined, boosted up, and modernized and the plans were converted to a modern wood-plywood and epoxy building system.

Our first and best selled plan suited for homebuilders.

IDEA 19 originates in 2005 as a modification of Dudley Dix’s TLC 19, a small GRP trailerable sailboat; at the end of the work the only things left from the original project were hull lines, every other aspect of the project was refined, boosted up, and modernized and the plans were converted to a modern wood-plywood and epoxy building system. IDEA19  is a 6m fast paced trailerable sailboat; she can be built by homebuilders in both GRP and wood-plywood & epoxy resin, with strip planking system for hull, and plywood “stitch and glue” system for cockpit, deck and cabin; plans are suited for homebuilders ranging from absolute beginners to intermediate;

hull is a good balance between a quite full bow, sleek amidship lines and a flat and large transom; the boats have achieved a huge amount of miles sailed, both cruising and racing, in all conditions, including several nasty squalls; performance are very sparkly, and the cockpit is surprisingly dry and sound for a small sailboat, with fair and predictable reactions; she has proved to be a tough competitor in club racing (GPH approx. 740 for ORC club rating).

IDEA 19 plans grew in these years as a “family“ of sailboats: you can build her in a long cabin version or in a shorter one, with a really huge cockpit, both in sandwich GRP or in wood & epoxy resin, with retractable or fixed keel, with plywood chined or solid wood round cabin; plans are highly detailed, including all aspects of building and rigging the boat.

The boats launched have sailed thousand miles in these years, in a wide range of environments, from lakes to the open sea, and in a wide range of activities, from family cruising to club racing ; they took beatings in harsh sea conditions up to 30 knots of wind, clocked speed in excess 18 knots planing downind; the boat proved to be a study, forgiving, fun and fast pocket rocket , a very good choice given her overall dimensions.

A lot of building pictures and whole building sequences are on the web, which is something that can mark the difference and speed up the boat building process.

idea19_diag

Plans are available both in Italian and English.

Plans are available in imperial units upon request.

small plywood sailboat plans

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Woodsmith Plans

Easy Plywood Boat

Plywood construction, some epoxy, and a little bit of time are a small investment when compared to the sheer joy you’ll have on a lazy summer afternoon rowing around in your new fishing boat.

Plywood construction, some epoxy, and a little bit of time are a small investment when compared to the sheer joy you’ll have on a lazy summer afternoon rowing around in your new fishing boat.

Having always been around boats, it’s been a dream of mine to build a center-console fishing boat. Something in the 27-foot range that can handle off-shore fishing in my retirement years. Now, that’s a long ways off. So, in the meantime, the boat shown here is a good way to test the waters (pun intended) of boat building. In the world of wood boats, there are a few ways to build them. The method we chose for ours is a plywood construction, coated in epoxy resin (to water-proof it). It’s actually pretty straightforward, but there are some angles to tackle. By not applying fiberglass, you remove one of the tedious steps of boat building. What you’re left with is a 14-foot flat bottom boat that’s perfect for exploring small lakes, rivers, and ponds.

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Note: After your purchase, you will receive an email containing a PDF attachment of your purchased plan, as well as instructions for logging in to download the plan and access any other associated files and videos, which will all be located on this page.

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Plans & Kits

If you’re in the market for a boat to build, this directory of Boat Plans & Kits is a fine place to start. And if your company sells plans or kits, we invite you to list your offerings here. There is no charge for listing, but the featured boats must be built of wood. To refine your search of this directory, use quotation marks. If you search Nutshell Pram Kit, you’ll receive all the listings that include the words Nutshell, Pram, and Kit. To refine your search, enter “Nutshell Pram Kit”; you’ll then see only the results for Nutshell Pram kits.

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WAVERUNNER 24 CRUISER

Waverunner 24 Cruiser

Waverunner 24 - PLYWOOD Planing hull

Dixi Dinghy

Sailboats - Daysailers

Dixi dinghy.

Dixi Dinghy plywood 3:1 dinghy

17’ Kayak, Endeavor

Oar / Paddle

17’ kayak, endeavor.

Steve Killing’s design is fast becoming well-known, in part due to the Endeavour being build in many a WoodenBoat School class, as well as being the featured boat in the Ted Moores book Kayakcraft.This is the boat for you, even if you have never paddled before.

28ft Gypsy

The GYPSY 28 was the Woods Designs’ own cruising boat for five very successful years. It was designed as an easy-to-build budget ocean cruiser and many are now sailing in all corners of the world.

ZEN

Sailboats - Cruising

ZEN is a very simple 10 Foot boat ( www.diecipiedi.it ) particularly narrow and therefore unstable. It is not the right boat for a beginner but, in the hands of a good helmsman, it may be fast.

Fox is a decked double paddle canoe.

Fox Decked Double Paddle Canoe

Fox offers a near perfect blend of stability, versatility, performance and good looks on the water. She is a double-paddle boat suitable for camping expeditions or family outings and day trips.

Kastri

Motorboats - Outboard

In the spring of 2013, I started to write a book called, How to Design a Boat using SketchUp 3D Software . The subject matter was my design, ‘Kalostyn’.

OUGHTRED Acorn (Puffin) profile

10' 2" OUGHTRED Acorn (Puffin)

Resembling her 8′ cousin more than the sleeker 12′ Acorn, this chunky dinghy will be a good load carrier for her length—and she looks very, very British.Oughtred saves you from guess work by showing precisely how her planking should be lined off.Construction: Glued lapstrake plywood.Alternative c

20' Catboat, MADAM TIRZA profile

20' Catboat, MADAM TIRZA

A small daysailer/cruiser with berths for two. Construction: Plywood planking over sawn frames. Lofting is required. Plans include 8 sheets.

Canoe Yawl WENDA profile

24' 9" Canoe Yawl WENDA

A charming, shoal-draft, carvel-planked cruiser for two.Wenda possesses a timeless elegance.She’ll work her magic in the 21st century as she did in the 19th.Construction: Carvel planking over steamed frames.Alternative construction: Cold-molded or lapstrake plywood.Lofting is required.Plans inclu

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1941 36' Stephens motor yacht

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small plywood sailboat plans

MIKE WALLER 

Yacht design.

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WE SPECIALIZE IN BOAT PLANS FOR AMATEUR BUILDERS

We provide stock boat plans for both monohull and multihull sailing vessels, including sailing skiffs and sharpies. Our designs mainly feature timber construction, in plywood or cedar strip plank composite construction, using the W.E.S.T. system (wood epoxy saturation technique). Our designs are intended mainly as cruising boats, although several have done well in racing. All designs are suitable for amateur boat builders.

Monohull designs by Mike Waller Yacht Design.png

 MONOHULLS

 multihulls  , photos from our builders.

Waller TS 540 by Mike Waller Yacht Design -  under sail

Photo galleries are provided on each design page where available

small plywood sailboat plans

  • Basic Kayaking Knowledge , Learn

15 Free Boat Plans You Can Build This Week (with PDFs)

Boatbuilding is one of the most ancient forms of craftsmanship still alive today. As long as our ancestors have had a curiosity about exploring open waters, they have been practicing and honing their boatbuilding skills.

To be honest, however, building a boat is no small task. It will require a lot of work and patience to ultimately create a finished product that you are happy with and that is actually seaworthy.

Of course, we have also included a few free boat plans. You can keep in your back pocket for the next time you are asked to build a cardboard boat as part of a contest or lakefront teambuilding adventure.

We hope that these resources help you in your journey to build your own boat!

Resources for free boat plans with PDFs

Photo by SeventyFour via Shutterstock

Free Boat Plans

Why build your own boat, 1. the wanigan, 2. the mouse, 3. the slipper, 4. the handy andy, 5. the junior, 6. the jolly roger, 7. the cork, 8. the hobby kat, 9. the tern, 10. the falcon, 11. the white duck, 12. the sea midge, 13. the zephyr, 14. the gypsy, 15. the crazy cardboard boat, 15 free boat plans you can build this week (with pdfs) – final thoughts, share on pinterest.

  • The Wanigan
  • The Slipper

The Handy Andy

  • The Jolly Roger
  • The Hobby Kat

The White Duck

  • The Sea Midge

The Crazy Cardboard Boat

small plywood sailboat plans

Photo by Halsey via Shutterstock

There are a lot of reasons why you should explore building your own boat versus buying a pre-made model. Here is a quick breakdown of the most obvious benefits:

  • You will know the ins and outs of your finished boat better than anyone
  • It can be a great project to work on with your teenage or even adult children
  • You will gain valuable skills molding and shaping wood and other materials
  • You can design your boat for your specific needs
  • You don’t have to trust the sometimes-questionable manufacturing of mass-produced boats
  • You can create a boat that functions as your second home on the water
  • You can save money if you source materials mindfully

Of course, most first-time boatbuilders still experience some level of trial-and-error. With patience and perseverance, however, you can craft a one-of-a-kind vessel that has no equal anywhere in the world.

Free Boat Plans You Can Build This Week (with PDFs)

PC Duckworks Boat Builders Supply

The Wanigan boat began as a garvey design, which is one of the older boat plans known to the Americas. Traditionally, these boats were built as work scows and were very popular among American summer camps.

The design itself is very simple, but these boats can carry heavy loads. It can also handle a trolling motor being mounted to the stern so you can cover more ground if you want to use it as a fishing boat.

The creator of this boat plan became aware of some of the downsides of the garvey design, such as the heavier weight that made it less efficient than some other designs. So he combined elements of dory and wanigan designs to create a hybrid.

The main changes include an enlarged beam, tilted lathes to provide a stiffer hull, and knocking off the top strakes to reduce the boat’s overall weight.

The Wanigan text

These additional The Wanigan drawings   may also prove useful for your build process!

small plywood sailboat plans

The Mouse is one of the most compact and nimble boat plans we have found for this list. It is an easy build and also a great boat for two kids or a single teenage paddler.

The original builder began with a one-sheet boat design in an effort to create the lightest and most affordable boat possible. This means it is only suited for calm waters and should not be used in high winds or wavy conditions.

That said, it was built in roughly 12 to 24 hours of work time and doesn’t require a full workshop to construct. The main material that is required for building this boat is quarter-inch plywood. But the builder recommends using one-inch by half-inch pine or something a little sturdier.

The plywood and pine components are held together using a method called ”˜stitch and glue’. This method requires choosing one of the best glues for kayak outfitting , which are typically made of epoxy and glass tape rather than something cheaper like polyurethane.

The Mouse Instructions

Also, here are a few extra useful The Mouse Notes for builders

small plywood sailboat plans

The Slipper is the first of many sailboat plans on our list and it is faster, easier, and cheaper to build than most. It also features a deeper cockpit than many other sailboat designs, which makes it safer for intermediate sailors.

This sailboat plan features dual steering stations so that you can sail from inside or outside of the helm. It also includes a centerboard trunk that hardly intrudes into the cabin at all. So that, it is easier to work around while you are in the cockpit.

The exterior hull and cabin of this sailboat feature a modified dory design using two sheets of plywood ripped to three feet wide before being joined together. The resulting hull is a modified V-shape that reduces drag.

The centerboard of this boat can also be winched up to the level of the top of the cabin or lowered down to alter the draft. This allows you to customize the boat design for a stiffer and more weather-worthy vessel if you need it.

The Slipper was also intentionally designed with an aft cabin that naturally helps to keep the bow pointed into the wind whether you are underway or the boat is anchored in the port.

The Building Slipper

small plywood sailboat plans

PC DIY Wood Boat

The Handy Andy is a great little 10-foot portable rowboat for hunting, camping, fishing, and other recreational uses. It is actually the only folding boat design on our list, which makes it best for folks that need the most portable boat plan possible.

This boat features a 42-inch beam and a depth of about 15 inches at the mid-section. It also weighs roughly 80 pounds when assembled and can handle up to three average-sized human passengers.

The design boasts a flat bottom with canvas-bound edges and the primary material used for construction is ⅜-inch marine-grade plywood. Despite its lightweight nature, this rowboat can handle trolling motors or even outboard motors with a maximum of five horsepower.

Once finished, the hull can be folded or unfolded in less than a minute’s time.

This design makes it one of the only boats on this list that can be stored in a truck bed or easily carried by two people to be launched at more remote locations.

The Junior - Free Boat Plan

If you are looking for an all-purpose dinghy that can handle almost any use you might imagine, look no further than The Junior free boat plan. It can carry three or four average-sized adults and is much easier to row than a traditional dinghy.

It is also durable enough to be equipped with a small outboard motor. You could even set it up with sailing equipment if you want to use it as a sailing vessel. As we said, this is truly an all-around boat design!

This boat plan requires constructing three frames that will provide the majority of the load-bearing support. The builder recommends using ¾-inch framing with ⅜-inch plywood as the exterior material for this boat build.

Resin glue and flathead screws are also required to hold this boat together. But there is a full list of materials included in the plans we have linked to below. Sticking to that plan should also give you enough leftover materials to construct two six-foot oars for rowing this boat until you install a trolling motor or outboard motor down the line!

small plywood sailboat plans

Channel your inner Captain Morgan when you are following these plans to build your very own Jolly Roger boat. This flat bottom boat design is designed for pond fishing . It can also be a useful yacht dinghy for getting from your dock to a larger vessel anchored offshore.

The plan follows conventional dinghy construction methods but also includes a few modifications that will save you time and energy. The wide design is super stable for boaters of all ages.

The keel, frame, chines, and risers are all cut from ¾-inch oak, ash, or any other trusted hardwood you can get your hands on. For the smaller components, the builder recommends using cedar, cypress, fir, or white or yellow pine.

Because this boat plan is also sturdy enough to handle a small motor, it includes important points for protecting the wooden hull from spark plug damage.

Be careful to follow these guidelines to build the safest boat possible if you imagine installing a motor down the line.

The Jollyroger

small plywood sailboat plans

The Cork is another simple rowboat design. This one trends away from the flat bottom plans that we have included thus far. Instead, it features a deeper, V-shaped hull that makes it better suited to more efficient rowing and easier maneuverability.

It can be rowed easily from either seating position and is durable enough to handle up to three average-sized adult passengers. The ends of the boat are identical, which allows for multi-directional rowing.

The list of materials required for this boat plan should cost you between $30 and $50, depending on your location and hardware costs there. The resulting build is lightweight enough for two people to be carried and also to be transported on top of a vehicle .

Inside the boat, the builders use aluminum tubing to secure the struts that hold the seats. This material choice keeps the overall weight of the boat down while still adding the necessary rigidity across the beam of the boat.

small plywood sailboat plans

The Hobie Cat is one of the most iconic and recognizable small sailing vessels ever made. This Hobby Kat plan is your answer to building your own iconic sailboat without spending thousands of dollars.

Your finished boat will be able to handle speeds of up to 20 miles per hour. It will be a super fun vessel for windy days on the lake or bay. The builder was able to construct the hulls, decking, and rudder for this boat while spending little more than $200.

From there, they purchased and installed the mast, boom, sail, and rigging, which brought the total amount spent to roughly $650 (still much less than a name-brand Hobie!). Without the mast and sail, this boat weighs roughly 165 pounds and is constructed using primarily 3/16-inch marine plywood.

You can also elect to build your own mast, boom, and sail if you have the time and skills to do so.

Those elements are not included in this boat plan, but they do offer some recommendations for where to buy these components!

The HobbyKat

small plywood sailboat plans

Named after the common seabird found around the world, the Tern is a lightweight and nimble sailboat with a 72 square foot base design. She is made for inland sailing and planes very well in moderate breezes.

The hull design also provides minimal water resistance and the small floor plan makes this boat easier for intermediate sailors to handle. Even though it offers a small footprint, this boat is sturdy enough to handle up to four adult passengers.

One of the best things about this boat plan is that it can be built almost entirely by using only common hand tools.

Of course, you can speed things up if you have power tools and you are skilled enough to use them correctly.

The Tern boat plan includes a 20-foot mast, but you can shorten that length if you desire. The plan includes a complete list of materials and step-by-step instructions on how to plane and assemble each element.

small plywood sailboat plans

As you might expect from its name alone, the Falcon is an incredibly speedy sailboat for its size. It boasts a 14-foot centerboard and can handle two to four passengers, depending on its size and weight.

In tests of the original build, the creators claim that this boat out-distanced many Snipe and Comet sailing vessels as well as pacing evenly alongside longer 18-foot sailboats. When finished, your boat will have a six-foot beam and a total weight of roughly 475 pounds.

For the main framing components, they recommend using white oak and plywood will be the main material used in the hull construction. The hull features a V-shaped that was inspired by larger schooners.

The Falcon is best suited to sailing on bays, lakes, and wide rivers. It is also a boat plan with just under 120 square feet of deck space and it is a great build for amateur craftsmen and sailors.

small plywood sailboat plans

The White Duck is a flat-bottomed rowboat with a total length of 13’6” and a four-foot beam. The cockpit is approximately 15 inches deep all the way around and this boat can handle up to five passengers while maintaining buoyancy and stability.

When fully constructed, it will weigh roughly 200 pounds, but the final weight will depend on the type of lumber you choose for your build. This boat plan features plywood planking over solid wooden frames.

The White Duck is built with a pointed bow that cuts nicely through the water. The flat stern of this boat design will make it easy to attach a small outboard motor with a maximum of six horsepower.

As you might expect from its name, this rowboat is a great option for duck hunting trips. That being said, it is a highly versatile craft that can also be used for pond fishing or casual rowing on your nearby lake.

small plywood sailboat plans

The Sea Midge is one of the smallest rowboats on our list and it is ideally suited for one average-sized rower or two small paddlers. It is only about 8 feet in length and offers a 52-inch beam at its widest point.

The Midge’s small dimensions make her ideal for navigating narrower creeks and streams. With an approximate weight of 62 pounds, she is easy to maneuver on the water and can also be much more easily transported than some of the larger boat plans on our list

The Seamidge

small plywood sailboat plans

The Zephyr is a compact and speedy dinghy sailboat that measures roughly 14 feet long and approximately five feet across. This boat style was originally developed for safely crossing the English Channel. This means it can stand up well in rough waters.

When finished, it is also light enough to be transported on a small trailer or on top of a larger vehicle.

The boat plan calls for using hemlock or fir for the framing and oak or Douglas fir for the keel and chines.

small plywood sailboat plans

The Gypsy is a small cruising sailboat that is meant to be equipped with an outboard motor for powered locomotion. The original design resulted in an incredibly seaworthy vessel that logged more than 6,000 nautical miles in her lifetime.

It includes a comfortable cabin that makes it well-suited for multi-day sailing adventures. This boat plan includes improvements on the original design that will help you build an extremely durable and long-lasting sailboat.

The Gypsy boat design will help you construct a vessel that can handle a motor up to 25 horsepower so that you can enjoy cruising speeds of up to nine miles per hour.

While it may require a bit more of an investment in time and money, it will also help you produce one of the best boats you can build with a free boat plan!

small plywood sailboat plans

PC Saint Dominic Catholic School

Finally, let’s talk about a crazy cardboard boat plan that you can build in less than a day. This is a great boat plan to bookmark for your next teambuilding project so that you can earn bragging rights with your coworkers.

The plan calls for using 1.5 sheets of cardboard. But you can use the remaining half sheet to build your own boat paddle if you want to get creative.

Triple-thick cardboard is best for this boat plan. But you can always double up thinner sheets if that is all you can find.

These plans include an easy-to-follow diagram for marking, cutting, and folding the cardboard sheets to create the hull of your boat. From there, it calls for using contact cement and construction adhesive to seal the edges and corners.

If you are looking to save a little money on this build you could also use duct tape and then wrap the entire design in plastic sheeting to provide waterproof qualities.

Overall, this build is one of the cheapest and easiest on our list. It is also a great project for hot summer camp days on the lake or river!

small plywood sailboat plans

Photo by Alexandra Soloviova via Shutterstock

We hope that you now have a couple of free boat plans to inspire you to begin your own construction project.

Don’t hesitate to check out YouTube for some useful boat-building videos when you are getting into the nitty-gritty of these build processes!

Enjoyed 15 Free Boat Plans You Can Build This Week (with PDFs)? Share it with your friends so they too can follow the Kayakhelp journey.

Free Boat Plans You Can Build This Week (with PDFs)

Peter Salisbury

Pete is the Owner of KayakHelp.com. Born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio, he grew up kayaking, fishing, sailing, and partaking in outdoor adventures around the Great Lakes. When he’s not out on the water, you can find him skiing in the mountains, reading his favorite books, and spending time with his family.

small plywood sailboat plans

COMMENTS

  1. Idea 21

    Idea 21 small sailboat plan is the latest development of my family of small plywood & epoxy sailboats plans for homebuilders: it was quite a time since I was thinking of an evolution of her smaller 19 footer sister, so I finally take the decision to publish this new plan. The goals of this plan is simple: add interior volume, simplify the work for homebuilders switching to a complete plywood ...

  2. Plywood Boat Plans

    Plywood Boat Plans and Wooden Canoe Plans. Sailing Dinghy . Power . Row . Paddle . Overnight ... OzRacer RV is the same small boat hull but with more space in the cockpit and is a slightly simpler build. 4 sheets plywood. These Boat plans are a modern boatbuilding course in a book. Capacity 1 adult and one child or maybe 2 adults

  3. Nautline : Boat plans, plywood sailboats plans, pocket cruisers

    Nautline : online boats plans, sailboat plans for self builder, junk rig for pocket sailboats, pocket cruiser plywood plans, plywood kayak plans. My shopping Cart [] Home; Boat Plans; Tenten/Carabela. Tenten 10-305; Tenten 14-425; Carabela 650; Naut. Naut 475; ... Small offshore pocket cruiser in "Around In Ten" spirit - LO 3.05 m x beam 1.44 m ...

  4. Plywood Boats to Build Yourself, Designed by Dudley Dix Yacht Design

    Plywood Boats to Build Yourself - by Dudley Dix Yacht Design. Plans for building a plywood boat in your garage, build methods for beginners to experienced builders. ... DUDLEY DIX YACHT DESIGN. Build Your Own Plywood Boat ~ Album of plywood boats ~ Plywood boat plans ~ Kits - USA ~ Kits - International ~ Main website ~ Mobile website ~ Full ...

  5. Plywood Boat Build

    Building an 11ft Plywood Boat from start to finish using the Stitch and Glue method. Pointing out mistakes and how to avoid them.BOAT PLANS: https://plywood...

  6. Build a Small Sailboat Free Plans

    These plans are for a small 15 foot knockabout sailboat. I like these plans for their ease. Building a smaller boat is a lot more attainable than a cabin cruiser! And these plans get right to the specifics of building. From the plans: ANY SAILBOAT fancier will like "Tramp," the trim, 15-ft. knockabout that's so easy to build in plywood.

  7. Saltaspiaggia |cheap minimal coastal cruiser

    Draft (keel down-up): 1,00 - 0,30 m. Reacher/mps: 13 m2. Design displacement: 1000 kg. Engine: outboard 6-10 HP. Plans can be purchased here: Nautikit Saltaspiaggia order page. "Saltaspiaggia", can be translated as "Beach-hopper"; this sailboat is a minimal coastal cruiser, a sailboat to hop from one beach to another with a small ...

  8. Petrel 33

    plans price: 900 € for paper sheets, 840€ for pdf format drawings, 350 € for CAD engraving files (required if you want to cut all the plywood parts with CNC machinery, includes keel steel plating shapes) ; plans will be made approximately of 27 drawings and a 25 pages booklet with assembly sequence, tips and tricks, plans can be purchased ...

  9. Ocean Explorer

    Plywood microcruiser for rivers and lakes - cabin and cockpit fitted into a tiny 8 foot sailboat which sails pretty well - see video below! ... I am actually moving slowly. My destination is Linnansaari Island´s north edge. The map says it has a dock for small boats. My boat has berth´s for two - is that dock going to be too small? 11:50 ...

  10. 15 1/2 ft Rowboat Easy Build in Plywood

    Basic Dimensions of MSD Plywood Rowboat Plan. Length 15 ft 6 inches x 4ft beam. Estimated weight 90lbs. Plans $75 including detailed instructions. Payload - one person - second person or a couple of children and picnic things are OK too.

  11. Small Boat Plans Catalogue ~ Small Boat Designs by Tad Roberts

    Marjorie 26' Barge. Two sleeping cabins, a head, galley, and a pilothouse. Catalogue of all small boat plans and custom small boat designs by Tad Roberts. Plans for plywood, lapstrake, plank-on-frame, cold-molded, sheath-stripped, and aluminum construction. Free plans for Tern, 24' gaff ketch.

  12. Wood Boat Plans, Wooden Boat Kits and Boat Designs

    Please call or write to me at:Arch Davis Design37 Doak RoadBelfast, Maine 04915Tel:207-930-9873. If you would like to receive a newsletter from Arch Davis Design, send me an e-mail at [email protected]. Arch Davis Design - Offering Boat Plans, Kits, Videos and DVDs For The Amateur Boat Builder including sail boats, row boats and power boats.

  13. Lightweight Sailboat Kits That You Can Build

    Skerry. Sailing Dinghies. Faering Cruiser. Kayak-Canoe Sailrig. Pacific Proas. Independence R/C Model. Our collection of sailboat kit designs from 8 to 31 feet. Strong, lightweight okoume plywood means strong, lightweight sailing craft. Most of our sailboats can be cartopped, all of them sail beautifully, and all of them are easy to build.

  14. Boatbuilding with Plywood

    For most amateurs, plywood is the material of choice. Plywood is one of the cheapest and easiest building materials, one that the average do-it-yourselfer is both familiar and comfortable with. Plywood is also, pound for pound, stronger than steel. Because of its high strength to weight, plywood construction yields a boat that is much lighter […]

  15. Plans & Kits

    GRP Monohull Sailboats; Multihull Sailboats; Plywood Monohull Sailboats; Power Boats; Eric Henseval ... The TAPE & GLUE PROCESS has been around for a few years, and hundreds of small boats have been constructedsuccessfully utilizing the process without incident. ... To download these plans, click HERE The Drifter 12 is a small trimaran that can ...

  16. IDEA 19

    IDEA 19 originates in 2005 as a modification of Dudley Dix's TLC 19, a small GRP trailerable sailboat; at the end of the work the only things left from the original project were hull lines, every other aspect of the project was refined, boosted up, and modernized and the plans were converted to a modern wood-plywood and epoxy building system.

  17. Easy Plywood Boat

    Easy Plywood Boat. Plywood construction, some epoxy, and a little bit of time are a small investment when compared to the sheer joy you'll have on a lazy summer afternoon rowing around in your new fishing boat. Having always been around boats, it's been a dream of mine to build a center-console fishing boat. Something in the 27-foot range ...

  18. Plans & Kits Search

    Janus sailing catamaran. Designer. Woods Designs. Janus is a 4 berth trailable sailing catamaran built in sheet plywood. However, don't be deceived by Janus' simple dory shaped hulls (which make it a very easy boat to build). It has a lot of internal room for its length and a surprisingly good performance. Oar / Paddle.

  19. Build a 7.5 foot boat with 2 sheets of plywood -The Garage ...

    Update: We now have plans for this boat build. They can be purchased at www.thegarageengineer.com/plansWatch entire playlist of Boat build and engine repair:...

  20. Sailboat plans 14-18 ft

    Sailboat plans; 14-18 ft Sailboat plans 14-18 ft. Design Length Beam Sail area Engine power Compare; Pixie by Woods Designs 14ft fun beach catamaran ... 17 ft multichine plywood version of the TS 5.4 trailer yacht 17' 7" 5.36 m: 7' 7" 2.3 m: 197 sq. ft. 18.28 m 2 ...

  21. Plans For Catamarans And Monohulls

    YACHT DESIGN. We provide stock boat plans for both monohull and multihull sailing vessels, including sailing skiffs and sharpies. Our designs mainly feature timber construction, in plywood or cedar strip plank composite construction, using the W.E.S.T. system (wood epoxy saturation technique). Our designs are intended mainly as cruising boats ...

  22. 15' Coastal Power Cat

    15' Plywood " Flat Cat". Tunnel hull. Center console. US$300.00. Buy. I arrived at the design of this 15 footer after observing many different catamarans. Its size is such that it fits in with a large group of small boats that can be home built, trailered, and launched and retrieved from a ramp.

  23. 15 Free Boat Plans You Can Build This Week (with PDFs)

    Because this boat plan is also sturdy enough to handle a small motor, it includes important points for protecting the wooden hull from spark plug damage. Be careful to follow these guidelines to build the safest boat possible if you imagine installing a motor down the line. The Jollyroger. 7. The Cork.