centerboard cruising sailboats

What is a Sailboat Centerboard?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A sailboat centerboard is a retractable fin that protrudes from the bottom of the hull. The centerboard keeps the boat stable and on course.

Centerboards are an important and often overlooked part of a sailboat, but they're essential to stability and effective navigation. Centerboards perform the function of a keel and keep the boat on course regardless of wind direction. Centerboards are primarily found on small trailerable vessels, which vary in length from 12 to 25 feet.

Table of contents

How a Centerboard Works

Centerboards look similar to fin keels, but they have one notable difference: they're retractable. Small sailboats use centerboards for stability and to keep a straight course, especially when sailing windward .

Technically speaking, a centerboard is a rudimentary form of a hydrofoil. In practicality, it's like a rudder that always stays amidships. This is beneficial, as it forces the boat to track a straight course regardless of what direction the wind is blowing.

Without the centerboard, the wind would push the sailboat in whatever direction it was blowing. Tacking would be nearly impossible, and attempting to sail windward could simply knock down the boat. In this sense, the centerboard performs the same function as a fixed-keel.

Centerboard Sailboat Characteristics

Centerboard sailboats are typically less than 25 feet in length and designed for shallow water. In fact, centerboard boats are perfect for shallow water. Cruising in lakes and rivers is a joy with a centerboard boat, as the board can be retracted for towing, beaching, or skimming over shallow water. Centerboard sailboats are the ultimate shoal-draft vessels.

Centerboards descend from a hollow cavity in the center of the boat. This cavity is called the centerboard trunk. Some centerboards are removable and slide vertically into the centerboard trunk. Others are hinged or enclosed, allowing them to be raised and lowered from inside the cabin without removal.

Removable Centerboards

Removable centerboards are usually found on the smallest sailboats. These blades tend to be roughly twice the length of how they look from under the boat. This is because the centerboard trunk has to be above the waterline. Remember, the centerboard trunk is effectively a hole in the boat, so it can't be the same height as the water.

Enclosed Centerboards

Enclosed centerboards are common on mid-sized and larger 'small' boats. They're especially common on vessels equipped with cabins. The primary benefit of an enclosed centerboard is water tightness, as the board is housed within a sealed centerboard trunk.

Enclosed centerboards can be raised and lowered from inside the cabin and never needs to be removed from the boat. They're also shorter (overall) than removable centerboards, as they don't mount to the very top of the high centerboard trunk.

The primary drawback of enclosed centerboards is increased complexity and access issues. But in most cases, small centerboard craft are not usually in the water long enough for severe growth issues. Additionally, retracting the board can protect it from excessive marine gunk.

Hinged Centerboards

Hinged centerboards (or 'swing keel' centerboards) are the most common enclosed variety. Hinged centerboards pivot on a forward hinge. They're long and thin and sometimes stow in a hidden centerboard trunk that's mounted to the bottom of the hull.

These 'stealth' centerboard trunks free up cabin space at the expense of a few inches of draft. Hinged centerboards offer an increased level of grounding safety, as they retract on their own if they hit the ground (instead of shearing off). It's the collapsing steering column of sailboat keels .

Advantages of Centerboard Sailboats

The primary advantage of a centerboard boat is its inherent shoal-draft capability. That means centerboard boats can go a lot closer to shore than fixed-keel vessels. They can even go on shore, and drying out during low tide is rarely hazardous. They sit upright on dry land, and they're easy to trailer around.

The cost to construct, own, and maintain a centerboard cruiser is often far less than a traditional fixed- keel sailboat . This is primarily because you usually don't need a crane to pull it out of the water. Centerboard boats are often small and light enough to leave on a trailer, and their small size avoids excessive marina fees.

Disadvantages of Centerboard Sailboats

Can you cross an ocean in a centerboard sailboat? Most would caution against it. Some would say, "absolutely not," but it has happened a time or two. The issues with centerboard sailboats are size, displacement, draft, and stability, which cause problems in rough weather.

Most centerboard sailboats are only comfortable in calm coastal and inland waters. Conditions aboard a shoal-draft sailboat in foul weather range from uncomfortable to downright perilous, which is a major tradeoff. Additionally, small centerboard sailboats typically lack the cabin and storage space necessary for seagoing provisions.

Also, most small centerboard sailboats simply aren't designed for extended cruising. Things like generators, VHF radios, large freshwater tanks, and bathroom facilities usually aren't up to the task on small boats.

Centerboard Sailboat Propulsion

The smallest centerboard sailboats, such as Sunfish and Laser racers, have no propulsion system other than the sail itself. However, anything beyond 15 feet in length will probably have some alternative propulsion. Small boats have an oar or two on board, but most utilize a 5 to 10-horsepower outboard motor.

Inboard motors are rare, but a one or two-cylinder marine diesel can sometimes be found below the cockpit of a centerboard cruiser. Some small 'motor-sailer' boats have inboard engines and a centerboard for sailing.

Best Centerboard Sailboats for Cruising

Centerboard sailboats are ideal for coastal and inland cruising, and many of these pocket-sized vessels include surprisingly comfortable accommodations. These aren't dinghies or converted rowboats; they're serious sailing vessels in a compact package. Here are a few of the best 'all-around' centerboard sailboats available today.

Catalina 22

The Catalina 22 is one of the most popular sailboats ever built. It has the profile of its larger cousins (like the Catalina 27) but features a compact swing keel centerboard instead of a fin keel . At 22 feet long, the Catalina 22 is about as hardy as centerboard cruisers get.

And thanks to its retractable hinged centerboard, there's enough cabin space for a V-berth, porta-potty, stove, sink, settee, and a convertible dining area berth. The trailerable Catalina 22 is widely available on the used market, often for entry-level pricing.

West Wight Potter 19

The West Wight Potter 19 is a small centerboard pocket cruiser with a cult following. It's a fiberglass V-bottom trailer sailboat with a spacious cabin, retractable centerboard, and foldable mast. This little cruiser is capable and convenient, and it's still produced today.

West Wight Potter sailboats are famous for being (quite literally) unsinkable. They're loaded with flotation foam and stay afloat even when completely flooded. Plus, they're easy to sail, and they have an enormous amount of natural stability.

The Hunter 22 is a remarkably well-balanced centerboard cruising boat. Like the Catalina 22, this Hunter sailboat features a compact swing-type retractable centerboard. It has a spacious cabin with room to accommodate the whole family on short voyages.

Hunter designed this compact cruising sloop with a masthead rig, which is simple to operate and robust. These vessels were only produced for a few years in the 80s, but variants are plentiful, and they're plenty of fun to sail.

Centerboard Vs. Fixed Keel

Are you interested in buying a sailboat ? Deciding between a centerboard and a fixed keel is an important decision that shouldn't be overlooked. If you're looking for a trailerable weekender for short voyages and an occasional offshore run, then consider a centerboard. They're cheap and easy to store in or out of the water.

Centerboard sailboats are also ideal for island hopping, as long as the islands aren't too far from your homeport. Florida to the Bahamas is a common and manageable journey for cruising centerboard boats.

And since centerboard sailboats tend to be smaller, it's important to consider how much provision storage you'll need for the journey. Running out of food or fresh water isn't much fun in the middle of the ocean.

Fixed keelboats are ideal for extended offshore voyages and coastal cruising, especially in choppy waters. A fixed keel cruising boat offers superior roll comfort, stability, and handling in a wide range of weather conditions. They're safer in storms as well. For serious sailing, it's difficult to find an ideal alternative.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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What’s the deal with Centerboards?

Most of you who have followed our journey for some time are familiar with our somewhat infamous centerboard issue, where we ran aground in the Illinois river in 8′ of water when our boat should only draw 4′ .  This was the most dramatic and expensive example of the issues we’ve had with the centerboard thus far, but that’s not to say it’s been the only trouble our centerboard has caused us.

In this week’s video, This Little Thing could SINK our Boat , we’re highlighting another pain point and some of the additional maintenance that comes along with having a pivoting centerboard. We’d like to take this opportunity to talk a little bit about the pros and cons of the centerboard system and shed some light on how we’ve been using it with real life examples.

Sailors love to talk shop. It seems everyone has an opinion when it comes to boats, and if you’re not too careful, it can lead lead to hours upon hours of enjoyable and sometimes educational discussion. Invariably anytime we get beyond the general pleasantries of “She’s a beaut!” or “What’s the length?” we know with more and more certainty that we’re talking with a sailor. As the questions get more specific e.g. “How much fuel do you carry?” or “How tall is the mast?” we will eventually hit this question: “What’s the draft?”

Up until this point, it’s only a Q&A session, but as soon as we divulge the boat has a centerboard — and that with the board up we draw between 4-4.5′ but when it’s down closer to 8′ — the discussion will turn one of three ways:

• The questioner wasn’t quite prepared for that answer and is dumbstruck because they didn’t know as much about boats as they thought they did, and were unaware of the centerboard concept or are unaware a boat of our size could have a centerboard.
• The questioner’s face lights up with a twinkle in their eye and responds with something like: “A perfect Bahamas boat, nice!”
• The questioner’s face scrunches up with terror in their eyes: “Why on god’s green earth would you want to maintain a system like that!”

And after three years of owning, maintaining and traveling aboard a boat with a centerboard, we’ve been in each of these 3 camps at one point or another. Let’s dive in and tackle each point of view.

What is a centerboard on a sailboat?

A centerboard is a retractable appendage that pivots in and out of a slot (centerboard trunk) in the hull/keel of a sailboat. Having the ability to raise and lower the centerboard allows the the boat to operate in shallow waters when lifted, while maintaining good upwind sailing characteristics with the centerboard down. Similarly, lifting the centerboard reduces the wetted surface area, resulting in lower drag while sailing downwind. This combination of characteristics makes it possible to build a safe, seaworthy boat, capable of easily sailing upwind off a lee shore, while still allowing the boat to tuck way up into shallow anchorages when necessary.

When first looking for our sailboat , weren’t specifically looking for a boat with a centerboard. It wasn’t on any “avoid ” list of ours either; it just wasn’t on our radar. So when we first saw the boat online and noticed it had a centerboard, we were pretty ambivalent about it.

Is that like a Swing Keel?

Many people have incorrectly referred to our boat as having a swing keel, and for good reason as they are quite similar on the surface. Before finding our boat, we were aware of other boats with swing keels (specifically Southerly Yachts  popularized by “ Distant Shores “) and some of their unique benefits. While the swing keel is similar on the surface, it’s an entirely different animal from our centerboard. They both feature large underwater wing-shaped appendages that pivot from underneath the boat to provide additional wetted surface area to reduce leeway and increase lift for sailing upwind. The main difference is that in a swing keel boat the pivoting appendage is actually the keel. In cruising boats, swing keels weigh several thousand pounds, while centerboards weigh a couple hundred. Thus, a swing keel also contains a large part of the boat’s ballast, so the position of the keel can have a substantial effect on the stability and motion of the boat. Additionally, when retracted all the way up into the hull, the boat can be left to dry out while sitting upright in the sand — pretty cool.

Distant Shores II, a Southerly 480

The flip side is this: In the fully retracted position, the keel needs somewhere to go — which takes up interior volume of the boat. Additionally, moving an extremely large and heavily ballasted keel up and down requires some serious mechanical gear, and unless the swing keel is lowered to some extent, there is nothing counteracting the force of the sails to prevent leeway and the boat will not sail to windward.

Whereas with our boat, in addition to the centerboard, we have a shoal draft keel (which actually doubles as a housing for the centerboard). Even without the centerboard down the boat will still sail to windward. Dropping the centerboard only serves to increase the pointing ability and windward performance. The centerboard does not contribute meaningfully to the ballast of the boat (as it weighs about 200lbs), so its effects on stability in the up or down position are muted. It is designed primarily as a hydrofoil to prevent leeway when sailing upwind and is significantly lighter than its swing keel cousin. Lastly, by retracting into the keel instead of all the way into the hull it does not have any negative effect on the interior volume of the boat.

What are the benefits of having a centerboard on a sailboat?

Besides increased upwind sailing performance, the major benefit of a boat with a centerboard is a shallow draft. For our needs navigating the inland river system, sailing the notoriously shallow Gulf of Mexico , and cruising Bahamaian waters, these are fantastic qualities to have in a boat.

The inland river system has a controlled depth of no less than 9′ in the channel from Chicago to Mobile, Alabama, but most of the channel is significantly deeper than that. However , s earching for marinas and anchorages for the night where you have to exit the channel means the depths start changing quickly. With our shoal draft keel we were able to sneak into a number of marinas with sub 5′ depth at their entrance or at the dock that would’ve been impossible in many other sailboats of our size. Even in Mobile we ran aground twice while moving through the marina to get to our dock.

In the Bahamas we find ourselves anchoring way up towards shore with the catamarans instead of much further out near the monohulls. Yet when it comes time to sail to windward, we’re able to drop the board and point much higher than we otherwise would’ve been able to with the shoal draft keel alone. This can shave miles off long passages and minimizes the number of tacks required in a tight channel.

Additionally, dropping the centerboard just a little bit can give us much better handling in tight quarters, as it prevents the bow from falling off downwind when trying to dock in strong crosswinds.

This all sounds pretty good, right? Why would you not want a boat with a centerboard?

What are the issues with centerboards?

With all the apparent benefits, you’d think the centerboard would be a no-brainer. And if you’re purely concerned with performance, then absolutely, it is. However, the centerboard represents an added layer of complexity that just isn’t absolutely necessary for the operation of the boat. Along with this added complexity comes additional maintenance to ensure the system continues operating normally, and even then, when everything is operating correctly, the maintenance itself can create some stressful situations. Below are a few of the negatives of having a centerboard we’ve discovered so far:

General Maintenance

Our centerboard is raised and lowered via a control line, or centerboard pennant. The line is always underwater inside the centerboard trunk, and is incredibly difficult to inspect. The line exits the boat below the waterline meaning we have an unprotected thru-hull without a seacock to close, should there be a leak. The through-hull is connected to a hose and the hose connects to a conduit in the mast that rises well above the waterline.

The centerboard line runs through this conduit and then exits the mast through a sheave at the deck level. It then runs through a turning block and clutch/winch to lock it off. Each of these items require some level of maintenance and/or at least inspection on a regular basis. These are all fairly simple parts, and the system is quite well-designed. However you can probably already imagine some of the issues…

Stepping & unstepping the mast is more difficult

Because the line runs through the mast, stepping and unstepping the mast requires a few more steps to ensure everything goes smoothly. When unstepping our mast, we need to temporarily slacken the centerboard pennant to allow the mast to be raised out of the boat. To ensure we can run the line back through the mast we need to run a messenger line in the mast to be able to retrieve it again when re-stepping.

When re-stepping the mast, extra care needs to be taken to ensure the mast doesn’t get hung up on the centerboard pennant or the conduit it runs through. We’ve heard of other boats stepping their mast only to realize later that they pinched their centerboard control line.

Naturally (or accidentally) slackening the centerboard pennant allows the centerboard to drop, increasing our draft to 8′, unless it’s secured in some other way. We did this at the start of our river trip by securing a line athwartship from each of the midship cleats to act as a set of suspenders to keep the centerboard pinned up inside the trunk. Unfortunately this wasn’t tight enough and slipped off the centerboard allowing it to drop into the fully-down position. This set us back a few days as we fabricated a much stronger system to secure the centerboard line using an exit sheave at the mast partners.

The centerboard trunk is difficult to clean & paint

While our boat was hauled out, we repainted the bottom with CopperCoat . However we were unable to paint the centerboard or the trunk with the same. Had we known better, we would’ve pulled the centerboard immediately after hoisting the boat out of the water with the travel lift. But since it was our first time hauling the boat for storage, we didn’t realize that once we were moved to the hydraulic trailer which the yard used to position boats, we would not be able to get enough height to drop the board and remove it.

We did hang in the slings over the weekend prior to splashing, which gave us time to get underneath the boat with the board down to clean the centerboard trunk and repaint the board and trunk with ablative bottom paint. But we couldn’t repaint with CopperCoat because of how long it needs to dry before being splashed.

The centerboard pivot point is difficult to inspect

The centerboard pivots on a large stainless steel hinge. This plate is bolted into the keel of the boat and has a large pin that runs through the centerboard allowing it to pivot around this point. There is also a heavy duty stainless eye on the backside of the centerboard that the pennant line connects to. Both of which are always submerged in water, and while they are stainless, stainless corrodes in environments lacking oxygen. So these parts need to be inspected on a regular basis, and this means removal of the entire board, which is easier said than done.

The centerboard can get stuck in the up or down position

The centerboard is designed to pivot up and down in the trunk with fairly small tolerances on either side. Any more space than what is needed to get the board out, and it will interfere with the flow of water over the hull, increasing water resistance and drag. Any extra space will also allow sea life to make its way up into the trunk.  Thankfully it’s very dark up in there, there isn’t much water flow carrying nutrients into that space, and we have been diligent about keeping it clean. While we haven’t run into this particular issue yet, we’ve heard of some boats that have had so much growth in the trunk that they can’t get the board to move.

While, we haven’t had our board stuck in the up position, but we have had the board stuck down. The centerboard is a hydrofoil, so the leading edge is a bit wider than the trailing edge, much like an airplane wing. And whereas dagger board trunks (where the board drops in vertically) can be contoured to follow the shape of the board almost exactly, our centerboard trunk is rectangular, as it needs to accomodate the width of the leading edge moving all the way through it. This means the trailing edge of the board (which is on the top when in the retracted position) leaves a lot of extra space between it and the trunk, creating a wedge shape… Maybe you can see where I’m going with this…

A perfect storm scenario can brew under just the right conditions. Imagine for a moment you are loosening the centerboard pennant line to drop the board down, but for one reason or another, the sideways pressure of the water against the board when sailing upwind, growth in the centerboard trunk, stops or slows the dropping motion of board — perhaps it even gets pushed back up slightly as the boat pitches forward and backward in a large wave. You, as the unsuspecting crewman, continue to slacken the line thinking the board is dropping, but in reality what is happening is the line comes to rest on the top of the board, and because of the wedge-shaped trailing edge, the line slips down ever so slightly between the board and the trunk, and gets trapped .  Once there it wedges in between the board and the trunk making it extremely difficult to move.

This has happened to us twice. The first was an easy fix, which occurred during a daysail after purchasing the boat. We could’ve easily addressed it without getting into the water, but it was hot, the water was clear, and despite being warned about this particular scenario, I didn’t have a good visualization of what was happening and wanted to see it for myself.

There is actually a built-in mediator of this problem which saved us considerable effort: A short section of exhaust hose with a diameter that almost exactly matches the width of the centerboard trunk serves as a conduit for the last 18″ of line of the centerboard. This prevents the slacked line from getting wedged in too tightly and allowed us to break it free with a tiny bit of force.

The second time however, was much worse, and is covered in detail in Episode 24 . We were in the Illinois Sanitary & Ship Canal, in incredibly disgusting water with no visibility, and because we hadn’t secured the centerboard line properly, the board unbeknownst to us dropped all the way down, and under zero tension actually hung forward of its pivot point. In this position, the geometry for pulling it back up is all out of whack.  With the protective hose completely out of the trunk, pulling the control line, only wedging it further in between the trunk and the centerboard.

So is a centerboard actually worth it?

While we’ve been both super happy we have a centerboard and a shallow draft, we have also been exasperated by the extra maintenance, sometimes wishing we had a “normal keel.” But at this point we’ve circled back around to mostly ambivalent.  The maintenance while sometimes stressful is all part of owning a boat and the benefit of having a shallow draft when needed are immeasurable.

In reality, we probably only use the centerboard 15-20% of the time we’re actually sailing. If you think about the benefits discussed above, it’s really only necessary in moderate upwind scenarios, which we often avoid anyway. It’s just way more comfortable sailing downwind! We’ve also found in light wind conditions the extra drag created by the centerboard outweighs the pointing ability it generates, so we leave the board up. To top it all off, when we’re not actually sailing (which is most of the time when the boat is at the dock, at anchor, or hauled out for storage) the centerboard is always in the retracted position. For the actual lifespan of the boat, the centerboard is in the down position much less than 10% of the time.

On more than one occasion I’ve thought that I’d rather have a keel full of lead where the centerboard trunk exists now. It would give us added stability 100% of the time, we’d have no additional maintenance, and we’d only miss out on the benefits 10% of the time. However that 10% of the time could potentially make all the difference if we really needed to get off a lee shore. Whenever we are using the board — i.e. upwind especially in a narrow channel or maneuvering under power in tight quarters — we’re often saying to each other “Thank goodness for the centerboard!”

In the end, as with everything on a boat, it’s a trade-off.  There’ll always be pros and cons of every design decision. There isn’t one right design for every boat or every boat owner. Overall, we’re happy with our Tartan37c  and would not pretend to know more than the S&S design team who dedicated their lives to designing these spectacular boats.

Let us know what you think!

Do you have any experience with a centerboard? Did we miss anything? We’d love your feedback.

This ONE LITTLE THING could SINK our Boat

How to Run Aground in 8’ of Water When You Only Draw 4’

About the Author: Kirk

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21 comments.

We had a centerboard on our very first keelboat, a William Tripp designed Polaris 26. Sailing in Michigan on Lake St. Clair, it was a great feature as we could gunk-hole into all kinds of places. Our horror story was that we once forgot we had it down when sailing into a shallow bay and we touched and pivoted under a pretty brisk wind. That was enough to slightly torque and twist the centerboard foil such that it would only retract about 1/3 the way up before getting jammed in the trunk. We had to sail the rest of the season that way until we were hauled out for winter and the yard could bend it back flat. Our subsequent three boats have all been shoal draft versions, which opens up a whole ‘nother discussion of the merits of shoal keel versus deep keel on the same boat model. Fortunately, we switched our home port to Charlevoix 20 years ago, where sailing depths are almost never an issue on Lake Charlevoix/Lake Michigan/Lake Huron. As you said, everything is a compromise with sailboat design. We were glad we had the shoal draft when we delivered our current boat from Annapolis to Charlevoix last year. We draw 6′-6″ and we bottomed out three or four times in the Erie Canal (supposedly a 9′ controlling depth, but who’s counting?). The deep keel version of our boat draws 7′-6″, so we would have never made it back to the Great Lakes. We are eventually going to be bringing this boat back out to the Atlantic permanently when we retire and plan to cruise the Bahamas and the Caribbean, so even the 6’-6″ shoal draft is going to be less than ideal. But hey, if Delos can do it, hopefully we can. Best to you and Lauren.

Jeff W SV Échappé Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 54DS Charlevoix, MI

Thanks Jeff, 6’6″ is the shoal draft?! We were so thankful for our 4’6″ draft in the Abacos. We could anchor in so many great places!

Yeah as usual your videos and blogs are so helpfull to use on my tartan too, you guys are my teachers, when I bought the boat I had the problem with growth inside the trunk, I left the line loose by unexperience and in a sail trip it went down with the shocking waves, I didn’t know it happened and then on another short trip we ran aground because I didn’t know the keel was down. But after that it got cleaned and all works perfect, thanks!!!

Good to hear! Rest assured, if you’ve done it, we probably have as well!

I had many maintenance issues with the centerboard system on my T 37. I managed to drift into shoal water while anchored with the centerboard half down – a position I often used to reduce roll. This resulted in breaking the lower 3/4 of the centerboard off. I recovered it and on next haul out, epoxied it back together and reinstalled it. Next haul out, the SS pivot assembly had a problem in the flange that received the pin – had to be re-fabricated. A couple of years later (I went way too long without a haul out from this point) the bolts holding the pivot assembly became loose and I was unable to lower the centerboard as the pennant was the only thing keeping it in the boat. Sailing with it up didn’t seem problematic.

It all sounds pretty familiar. I think we have a love/hate relationship with ours. 😉

Hello and love your information, site, etc. Your trips are completely unique to me and the blogs and video are welcome adventures. Keep on cruising and writing. Please.

Centerboards: I was raised sailing all manner of boats with them. We had a 48 Alden yawl with a centerboard. I think it went down twice! We cruised Cape Cod, the US East Coast into the Keys, and Bahamas in that boat and all the reasons to have a board were apparent. I was a kid then and wondered why anyone would build a boat without a centerboard.

Then, I started racing and fell in love with deep draft. Our boat now is 32 feet long and draws 6 feet. Oh my, do we go to windward! We have raced a T37 (same handicap) and we out point him but he out foots us and usually finishes ahead. Cruising is not about hours of close hauled sailing. I get it now!

In our harbor and on the next mooring is the referenced T37 that I am coming to love. Pretty boat and shallow draft. Back to my youthful exuberance for a centerboard. If you guys find you way up to the Cape, I hope we see you. Look into Stage Harbor.

Norm Martin Averisera

Hi Norm, thank you for sharing your story. It’s interesting how some boats just reach out and speak to certain people. All the best!

I have a membership in a sailing club with a collection of Capri 22’s that are not all identical. We have weekly races with them, where you show up and draw boat names out of a hat. One of them has a shoal draft keel, it is always the least favorite draw. Typically, while you might be able to point the bow upwind, it’s moving sideways far more than they other boats (regular keel versions of the same boat). But every now and then the wind is just right, and she’ll clean up, just own every race, but this is rare, relies on just right wind (5-10 knots) and tide conditions that allow her to get speed without being pushed leeward. Downwind, she also has a slightly shorter mast (several others also have shorter masts), but still usually keeps up. Possibly an advantage, but not sure. A centerboard would clearly help her upwind in some conditions. But it’s often going to be hard to really see those conditions without head to head comparisons and if your not caring you can just start the engine.

Sounds about right. That shoal draft boat likely does well on downwind legs given there is less surface area under the water.

We’re definitely not the fastest boat to windward, but we’re not racing. There some shoal draft boats that simply can’t sail upwind at all when the wind picks up. They have too much windage and not enough leverage on the water. We will hit hull speed at 30 degrees apparent in 15 knots apparent wind, which I’m quite happy with 🙂 All the best!

A daggerboard is a centerboard, just as one is an integer and a whole number. If the daggerboard is off center it is a leeboard.

Is that so? I always heard it as a centerboard pivots and a daggerboard slides up and down. But I suppose your explanation makes sense!

You guy’s are such centerboard rookies, but then again, most sailors are. I cruise the extremely shallow waters of the Southeast coast of the US and have always sailed centerboard boats for over 40 years, In fact my present boat is a Presto 36, a 18,000 displacement, ketch rigged, true or pure centerboarder, designed in 1884 by Ralph Middleton Munroe. I have no external keel at all, except for a 9″ X 6″X 12′ long lead grounding shoe, designed for “taking the Ground upright”. My draft, board up is 2′-6″ and approx.. 5′-6″ ” board down. The board weights approx. 400 lbs. My centerboard pendant, a 3/8″ super synthetic line runs upwards from the aft end of the centerboard trunk, to the cabin top via 1-1/4″ SS tube and is attached when it exits the top of the cabin, to a simple 6 to 1 tackle to help raise and lower the board. My centerboard trunk runs almost the entire length of the main cabin and has a 2″ dia. hole in it’s aft end. That hole and a short length of broom handle are extremely helpful for for coaxing a resistant board into going down as needed. I have spent many days pleasantly aground on a convenient sand bar, for recreation or maintenance needs and many a night secure in the knowledge, that no matter how busy the surrounding water are, I’m freed from the worries of getting “run” down in the night. Incidentally, I oft use the board along with my mizzen in assisting in self-steering. Never needed any auto-pilot. Up wind, she’s a drag, but any other course, with her sheets eased, she simply can’t be caught..

My wife and I have a Bristol 35.5 with a centerboard. Our installation is much simpler than the one Tartan came up with – I was very surprised when I saw that yours comes up though your mast. Ours is on a wire winch on the cabin house that runs through sealed pipes over sheaves to the board. I’d say that the vast majority of the issues you’ve had with your board are due to that somewhat quirky design. That said, I’ve always loved the look of the Tartan, and you guys have definitely made fantastic improvements.

My wife and I thoroughly enjoy your channel and following your adventures. Keep them coming!

It is a bit of a quirky system, but running it through the mast is kind of a neat way to hide the control line, which needs to enter and exit the hull and deck. It does present some challenges, but it’s neat out of the box thinking. As you know everything on the boat is a tradeoff, and overall we’re extremely happy with the boat. Thank you for watching!

Hi, how confident are you with the centre board in heavy weather … blue water … hove-to? We are going to look at a 47′ sloop with one tomorrow. I love our current smaller steel boat with a full keel but who knows …

Hi Melissa, Tartan 37s have sailed in every ocean on the planet, there have been multiple circumnavigations. As long as we keep the boat properly maintained, I have confidence in it. I don’t know what type of boat you’re looking at or what type of sailing it was designed for, but I don’t think there is anything fundamentally wrong with a centerboard. Good luck!

We have a 79 Irwin 39 with shoal draft an centerboard, the pennant is mid deck and runs through the sole to cabin top” stripper pole” that is attached to the galley and also serves as handhold under way, the pivot is a SS pin that runs abeam and is puttied over, I need to remove this soon as there is a bit more play in this joint than I’m comfortable with, The boat is very tender and we are contemplating the best way to add ballast to the keel as it heels very quickly and carries a lot of sail. The centerboard isn’t very effective when she’s on her ear for limiting leeway losses . She draws 4’3″ up and 9’6″ down, I never thought about partially dropping to improve turning so am excited to try that when maneuvering around docks. I’m hoping adding some lead will make it less tender and will be pursuing this after haulout.

Peter, sounds like you’re at the beginning of a fun adventure learning more about your centerboard and how it can improve the handling of your boat. It was a fun learning journey for us, and we really began to respect the purpose and design of the CB.

I have a 1966 Morgan 34. The bronze centerboard has deteriatiated beyond repair. Especially in the hinge pin and pennant attachment area Draft board up 3 1/2 ft, board down about 7 ft. Bronze board is at least 250 lbs, about 5 ft long, and is a great template

1..Any guidance on where I can get a replacement , perhaps Foss Foam?

2. Is the weight important to proper deployment. Sure cranks hard..a challenge for an old fart to raise

Hi Capt Ron, sorry to hear of your CB woes. Unfortunately I don’t have any sources for replacement. Weight is important, the heavier the better, to an extent. You obviously want to be able to lift/lower it under your own power. At a minimum you need some weight at the bottom of the CB to prevent it from floating and get it to drop down and stay down while underway. But the more weight you can drop down there the better.

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Sailboat Review: Tartan 455

• By Herb McCormick
• March 12, 2024

For me, for many reasons, certain boats and brands are synonymous with the waters or regions where they were created. The places are an essential component of the boats’ DNA. I’ll always associate a varnished mahogany runabout with upstate New York, or a cool little vintage catboat with Buzzards Bay and southern New England. Every classic Hinckley or Morris that I come across paints a vivid portrait of coastal Maine. Even yachts that sail or cruise far and wide all over the world still convey a sense of place. Recently, aboard a new Tartan 455, we pointed the bow into choppy Lake Erie, and I intuited an instant connection to the nearby northeast Ohio plant where the boat was spawned. It all felt like home. 

Other people see different things. After I uploaded a photo to social media of myself steering the 455, an old pal quickly hit me back with a comment, asking: “Tartan is still building boats?” 

The answer is an emphatic yes, and pretty darn good ones at that. The company has certainly had its ups and downs over the years, but it’s now navigating smoother waters for a couple of major reasons. First, it was recently acquired by Seattle Yachts, which made significant investments in the product and facilities, and appears firmly committed for the long haul. Second, longtime Tartan designer Tim Jackett is running operations, and the native Ohio homeboy is giving it his all. 

Jackett says that the 455 evolved from powerboats by Legacy, a company Tartan acquired in 2010. “The roots of it came after having some exposure to the Legacy brand and looking at how the deck and interior of that sedan style of powerboat works out so nicely,” he says. His first swing at the design in sailboat mode was a 37-foot motorsailer with a substantial trim tab that powered up at 14 knots. (It was never built.) When the owner of a Tartan 3700 approached him about commissioning a larger boat, Jackett returned to expand upon his earlier incarnation.

“But the concept was the same,” he says. “More of a sailing hull, but a nice, big, well-lit living space with inside steering, and then an aft cockpit that gave you the normal sailing experience of wind and water in your face when you wanted it.”

Jackett says that the 455 evolved from powerboats by legacy, a company tartan acquired in 2010. His first swing at the design was a 37-foot motorsailer.

Down a few steps into the deep ­cockpit, sliding doors open into the salon, which transitions into the forward living areas. The bulletproof laminate is a vacuum-bagged, infused sandwich that employs epoxy resin with a foam core in the hull construction and end-grain balsa in the deck. The lead keel supports a hefty ballast bulb and is available in deep- and shallow-draft configurations.

There are a couple of accommodations plans, including a two-stateroom version or the three-stateroom layout employed in the model we sailed, with guest staterooms to port and starboard, and an owner’s space forward with an attached head. The well-executed joiner work and furniture were cherry, though teak and maple are available (much of it sourced from northeast Ohio’s Amish mills). I’d say that this is primarily a comfortable couple’s boat with space for occasional visits from family and friends. 

Aesthetically, I found the lines plan of the 455 to be handsome and pleasing­—not a particularly easy task with a large ­deckhouse, which Jackett incorporated nicely into the profile.

This is ​​­primarily a comfortable ­couple’s boat with space for occasional visits from family and friends­—A big boat but an easy one to negotiate.

Wraparound windows allow light to pour in from all directions, as does the deckhouse’s overhead window. A split hydraulic backstay provides easy access to the drop-down transom and boarding platform between the twin wheels, which are stationed well outboard. (There’s a single, deep spade rudder.) Moving forward, an outboard ramp rises from the cockpit to the side decks, which makes for easy egress to the topside and foredeck. I believe that this feature originated with the Jeanneau line, and I always thought it was a trend that would spill over to other builders (see the Moody 41DS). It’s just too simple and elegant a solution to an age-old design conundrum. There are grippy stainless-steel handrails just about everywhere. This Tartan is a big boat but an easy one to negotiate.

The carbon-fiber double-spreader rig is fashioned in Tartan’s in-house autoclave, as are the rudder post and other reinforcements. The company’s Cruise Control Rig double-headsail sail plan (also known as a Solent setup) has become a fixture across the brand, with a code-zero-style reacher on the forward stay and a smaller, self-tacking jib on the aft one. The powerful, full-battened mainsail is stashed in a Leisure Furl in-boom furler, and there’s a wide traveler atop the deckhouse that facilitates the end-boom mainsail sheeting. All the running rigging is led into the cockpit and handled by a combination of rope clutches and Harken electric winches. The excellent sails come from Sobstad’s loft in nearby Rocky Hill. 

Over the years, I’ve sailed many a Jackett design, and the common denominator is they sail exceedingly well. We sailed the 455 on an early-fall afternoon after a cold front rolled through, offering up ideal 10- to 15-knot northwest breezes. The waves in the relatively shallow lake were closely spaced. As I took the wheel and came onto the wind under the smaller jib, it took me a while to stop pinching and get in the groove. But once I fell off a good 10 degrees, the boat and I settled in, and it muscled through the chop with aplomb. 

The steering was tight and accurate. Jackett says that he was still playing with the optimal rudder configuration, but it all felt fine to me. Topside, the Jefa wheels are cable-controlled, while the deckhouse steering station is on a hydraulic ram. You toggle between the two, depending on where you’re driving. We swapped out the self-tacker for the large reacher and bore off another 10 degrees, and the boat absolutely lit up, trucking along on a beam reach at bursts over 9 knots in complete and utter control. We even jibed the big sail through the exceedingly tight ­foretriangle, a maneuver I wouldn’t have thought possible. It was quite the sail. 

Fittingly, the first Tartan 455 is going to live on the Great Lakes, with Lake Huron’s North Channel a likely regular cruising ground. But I can envision this being a terrific yacht for the Pacific Northwest and beyond, and ideal for high-latitude adventures. You might not be able to take the Ohio out of a Tartan, but you can take this Tartan just about anywhere.

Where It All Began: Tartan 27

On the back lot of Tartan’s headquarters in Painesville, Ohio, the exact boat that started it all—Hull No. 1 of the sweet little Tartan 27 line, of which more than 700 were eventually built in a production run that lasted until 1979—is awaiting a complete refit. It was fun and ­enlightening, after sailing and reviewing Tartan’s latest offering, to consider how ­production-boat building and design has evolved during the past 60-plus years. The changes have been extensive.

The Tartan 27 was a collaborative effort between Douglass & McLeod Inc., an Ohio-based builder of one-design wooden dinghies such as the Thistle and the Flying Scot, and Charlie Britton, a sailor and businessman who was also reared on the shores of Lake Erie. Following his service in the US Navy, Britton sailed his 42-foot yawl from Japan to the West Indies, a rather unheard-of voyage in the late 1950s. Once home, he joined forces with D&M to commission a 27-footer for coastal cruising and club racing. Being Scotsmen, they decided to name it Tartan.

There were a lot of firsts ­involved here: The T27 was D&M’s first fiberglass boat, and it was one of the initial glass designs from the venerable East Coast firm of Sparkman & Stephens. The chief designer for the project was a young naval architect named Bill Shaw, who would go on to become the principal design chief at Pearson Yachts, where he designed dozens of models. 

Hull No. 1 launched in 1961. With its boxy coachroof and low-aspect masthead rig, it’s hard to believe today that the T27 was considered a performance racer/cruiser at the time, but as such, it was an immediate success. It was designed to compete under the popular Cruising Club of America rating rule of the early 1960s. Like other yachts of that period, including the Pearson Triton and Hinckley Bermuda 40, it featured long overhangs and a short waterline, a narrow beam (8 feet, 9 inches), moderate displacement, a long keel, shallow draft, an aperture-mounted propeller for the Atomic 4 gas engine, a keel-hung rudder, and slack bilges. Most of the early T27s were sloops, though it was also offered as a yawl, which did well under the CCA rule. 

At 7,400 pounds ­displacement, it was not a light boat, but when slightly cracked off, it tracked to weather like a demon. Unlike the Triton, which had a fixed keel, the T27 was a keel-centerboard boat that drew 6 feet, 4 inches when the board was lowered, and a mere 3 feet, 2 inches when raised, making it highly versatile as a pocket cruiser. The original centerboards were bronze, which must have raised some mighty maintenance issues, and is likely why it was soon switched over to steel encased in fiberglass. The ¾-inch fiberglass hull was a proverbial brick house; the deck was balsa-cored. At the time, the construction was state of the art.

D&M followed up the T27 with a couple more venerable “classic plastic” legends, including the Ted Hood-designed Black Watch 37 (which eventually was remodeled and relaunched as the Tartan 37) and another S&S benchmark, the Tartan 34, an expanded version of the T27 that also had a centerboard. Man, for many years, I was bewitched by the 34-footer, and you can still find all of these models in harbors everywhere. 

After a fire in 1971, D&M sold Britton the Tartan division, starting a whole new chapter in the company’s storied history.

As I steered the latest Tartan—a systems-rich yacht finished to an incredibly high degree—I could only wish that Britton were still around to experience the power and speed of a contemporary, long-range cruising yacht. I have no doubt that he’d be amazed, but that sweet little Tartan 27 of his was the inspiration for all that followed.

• More: Print March 2024 , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , tartan yachts
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• Sailboat Reviews

New J/95 Centerboard Sailboat is Fit for Shallow Water

J/boats new shoalsailer redraws the playing field for fast daysailers..

Given the grief that poor centerboard designs from the 1970s have caused sailers over the years, we were surprised to learn that J/Boats-known for its measured approach to the boat business (don’t let that radical backslash fool you)-put a centerboard in its new J/95.

Yes, swing-keel centerboards, those bronze, steel, or fiberglass foils that hinge from the keel like the blade on a Swiss army knife, are making a comeback. This is great news for shoalwater sailers who, for lack of other options, have tolerated decades-old centerboarders and the many ailments that plague them-corroded lifting cables, pulverized turning sheaves, and a thunk, thunk, thunk in the centerboard trunk. Fortunately for them, advances in materials and design have yielded a whole new breed of centerboarder. The J/95, it is safe to say, is not your fathers Irwin 38.

The last time centerboards were all the rage, through the 1950s and into the 1960s, it was because Northeast sailors didnt want to leave their good crystal at home when they raced off to Bermuda. In the Cruising Club of Americas (CCA) quest for a rating rule that favored velvet and walnut interiors, centerboarders gained a significant edge, and few boats took advantage of rule loopholes as well as the legendary Sparkman & Stephens-designed Finisterre. The boat achieved myth-like status in 1960, when owner and skipper Carleton Mitchell won the Newport to Bermuda race for an unprecedented third consecutive time.

When Mitchell died in 2007 at the age of 96, he was rightly hailed as a sailing legend. A one-time underwear salesman who married into a fortune, he served as a Navy combat photographer in World War II before pursuing in earnest a lifelong passion for sailing. In the decades after the war, he earned renown not only for his seamanship but also for his talent as a magazine writer, author, and photographer. The museum at Mystic Seaport in Connecticut holds his large collection of manuscripts and more than 20,000 of his photographs.

Today, Mitchell and Finisterre stand as icons from a golden era, doomed to an eternal afterlife in new boat marketing literature. But when J/Boats alluded to Carleton Mitchell and Finisterre in brochures for the J/95, we wanted a bottle of whatever theyre putting in the company watercooler. Except for a hinged keel and an inclination to float, the two boats are as alike as Neil Simons Felix and Oscar.

Introduced last year, the balsa-core J/95 is a lightweight, 30-foot daysailer with a plumb bow, twin-rudders, a sleek hull form, and a Spartan interior. Launched in 1954, 38-foot Finisterre is a double-planked heavy displacement racer-cruiser with a spoon bow, yawl rig, and almost swanky accommodations (the last three are all convenient CCA rule-beaters).

The reference to Finisterre is smart promotional shtick. The name offers J/Boats-and it is hardly the only company that has drafted on Finisterres fame-an instant connection to the sailors it seeks to entice with the J/95.

Like Morris, Sabre, Friendship, and the other makers of high-end trophy daysailers we reviewed in the January 2009 issue, the J/95 is aimed at recession-proof sailors who share Mitchells aesthetic tastes and passion for sailing. But unlike previous entries in this market, the J/95 sails in four feet of water and offers, in many ways, a saner approach to what dealers are calling “right-sizing.” (No salesman worth his salt would utter the more accurate word, “downsizing,” to a potential buyer of these boats.)

End of an era

The J/95 is the brainchild of Rod Johnstone, a man whose fairy-tale success is well known to longtime PS readers. Back in 1976, Johnstone built a fast little boat called Ragtime in his garage in Connecticut. It promptly trounced the local racers, who started asking Johnstone for their own.

At the time, Johnstone was an ad salesman for Soundings magazine and turned to his client Everett Pearson of TPI Inc. to produce the boat as the J/24. (The J is for Johnstone, the slash, were convinced, is meant to torment copy editors.) J/24s started rolling off the production line at TPI in February 1977. Bob Johnstone, the family marketing ace, left AMF Alcort (makers of the Sunfish) to join Rod as a partner, and crank up the boat sales to unprecedented numbers. Still in production, the J/24 remains one of the most popular sailboats in the world.

The mission for the J/95 is one of those hyphen-rich, have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too quests. Rod Johnstone wanted a wind-in-your-hair, but easy-to-sail weekender that catered to the huge population of sailors who must contend with depths of four feet our less. Being competitive in club or Performance Handicap Racing Fleet (PHRF), and, of course, a fantastically popular one-design class were also part of the dream.

“We wanted to make this a boat people would want sail, sail right up the river or creek, right up to their dock, sail in light winds, sail in 20 knots,” says Johnstone. “In my view, if you want to turn on the engine, this boat is a failure.”

When held up against the current crop of J/Boats, the J/95 is probably closest to the J/105, a popular one-design class boat launched in 1992. Both boats have similar deck layouts, and both feature a low cabintop and gentle sheer that give them good-looking profiles.

Although the J/105s deeper fin keel gives it a performance edge, Johnstone says that in brisk conditions, the J/95, with 2,250 pounds of lead ballast, can stay with the J/105 in a heavy-weather beat. Johnstones explanation for this sheds some light on why many CCA-rule boats remain popular as cruisers.

While the long bulb keel that is the norm in todays racing boats offers superior lift, it can create a pendulum-like pitch and roll and in a seaway. The J/95, with the center of ballast closer to the flotation plane, resists this tendency, making for a more efficient-and more comfortable-ride.

Of course, any of the J/95s gains during a rough beat are soon relinquished to the J/105s longer waterline on a downwind leg, but the point is made.

Compared to contemporary production shoal-draft boats, the J/95 has a key design advantage: twin rudders angled outward at 15 degrees. This means at least one rudder is always immersed, giving the boat predictable tracking, even when heeled. As pointed out in our February 2009 report on hull design, trying to steer the beamy Open Class-inspired hulls with a single shallow rudder can be maddening. In the most extreme cases, a modest puff of 16 knots sends the boat rounding up sharply to windward.

The price for the J/95s shallower draft is ultimate stability. According to J/Boats, the boat has a limit of positive stability of 126, well within the minimum of 120 recommended for offshore racing and fine for daysailing. The 200-pound centerboard doesn’t lock down, but should the board kick up in a grounding or crash downward a 160-degree capsize, it will connect with the soft lead keel and cause no harm to the hull. J/Boats said such an event would not damage the hull. (With our insurance premiums being what the are, we did not test this feature.)

Deck Layout

J/Boats has had plenty of practice pondering deck layouts on race boats, and those same details translate well to any good daysailer. As Johnstone points out, the features that bring efficiency on the race course-broad sidedecks, ergonomic cockpit layout, plenty of mechanical advantage-are equally kind to a titanium knees and hips.

“It just makes me sad to see people I know-friends, no less!-going out and getting power boats because they feel that they can’t sail anymore,” Johnstone grumbles. “And then they realize, too late sometimes, that they have to put up with all that noise.”

During the design phase, there was some discussion over tiller versus wheel. J/purists might clamor for a tiller, especially those bent on racing, but at what price? Cockpit space would suffer. Comfort and convenience, too.

The 44-inch Edson wheel fits nicely into the wide T-shaped aft section. Two angled chocks provide footing on a heel, and we found the windward rail to be a comfortable spot on a close reach. The transom is open, and the boat we sailed had an optional removable transom-seat locker. Even with the seat-locker in place, theres room behind the wheel.

The cockpit seats arent long enough for snoozing, and an extra inch of back support would be nice, but all in all, the cockpit caters well to crew comfort under way. The seats inside edges are angled upward slightly to anchor the tush, and the seat lockers offer ample space for sail and gear storage. The broad flat coaming is as comfortable a perch as the cockpit seats themselves. Owners can opt for either a full length toerail or one that ends forward of the cockpit. Teak is an option, but one of the appeals of the boat is its ease of maintenance.

The Harken sail controls are geared for minimal effort. The mainsheet (5:1-ratio with a 10:1-ratio fine-tuning adjustment), rides in front of the steering binnacle on an easily-trimmed traveler (4:1-ratio). A Hall Spars Quick Vang (5:1 ratio) handles boom tension.

The jibsheets lead to two 40.2STA two-speed self-tailing winches. The helmsman can easily trim the mainsheet from the windward rail, while the jib sheet winches are placed so that the trimmer can comfortably face forward. Casually seated on the coaming just in front of the wheel, the single-hander can tweak both the main and jib sheets.

The standard working jib is a roller-furling 105 that tacks easily through the foretriangle and leads to a jib track inside the shrouds. We kept the leads pinned just aft of the shrouds during the test sail and saw no need to change them. For PHRF racing, a second track is installed to handle the 150 genoa. (The boats PHRF rating is about 109.)

A Harken 32.2 two-speed self-tailing winch and a gang of three Spinlock rope clutches on the port side of the companionway tame the halyards and the centerboard. We didnt need the winch (or anti-inflammatories) to raise the centerboard, as the 5:1-ratio block and tackle gave plenty of mechanical advantage.

Passage fore and aft is wide and clear of obstructions, with stainless-steel handrails on the coachroof adding security. Eight-inch stainless steel cleats and a modest anchor locker round out the very functional deck layout.

Interior and Systems

With the J/95s emphasis on nice lines and a functional deck layout, its no surprise that the accommodations get the short shrift. Though its billed as a weekender, we call it a daysailer.

For boat camping, the layout takes care of the bare essentials. Two settee berths in the main cabin offer room to recline, but headroom, even when sitting, is tight. A Raritan head (served by a 14-gallon holding tank) shares space with a V-berth forward. A forward hatch and two ports keep the cabin aired out.

There is no nav station or galley, not even a stove, although hull No. 1 was equipped with AC shorepower and a microwave oven. A 48-quart cooler or a portable 12-volt Waeco fridge ( PS , May 2007) tucks aft of the port settee. An optional Group 27 house battery will keep the fridge running for a long day without charging.

Optional water tankage is in a 20-gallon bladder that feeds a pressure pump in the head and a cockpit shower. Fuel is in a 15-gallon tank beneath the port cockpit locker. PS generally prefers aluminum tanks for this purpose, but for a tank this small, a baffled polyethylene tank is a tolerable substitute.

The two-cylinder 14-horsepower Yanmar with a saildrive and Flex-O-Fold prop sits beneath slide-out companionway steps. Access is good except for servicing the water and primary fuel filters, when you need to make an awkward reach through a bulkhead cutout. J/Boats says it has worked closely with Yanmar to insure that the saildrive is protected from any galvanic corrosion. Regardless, engine zincs bear watching.

Now for the downers: Like some other Open Class imitators (Beneteau First 10R comes to mind), J/Boats hasn’t yet sorted out how to drain the boats shallow bilge without a sponge. The narrowest electric pump doesn’t fit into the tight squeeze in the sump. It sits on a riser pad, which means the last three inches of water make for an inviting frog pond.

To complicate matters, the hose on our test boats manual pump wheezed at a leaky hose union, rendering the pump useless. A leaky union-or any union at all-in an emergency bilge hose is not the sort of thing wed expect from J/Boats. (The local J/Boat dealer assured us this problem would be fixed immediately.)

We also took issue with the bilges drainage system. A single limber hole less than 3/4-inch in diameter separates the back section of the hull from the main bilge sump. Should a cockpit locker open in a knockdown and seawater flood the aft compartment, most of the water wouldnt reach the pumps until it flowed through that thimble-sized limber hole. In our view, the boat should either have freer flowing limber holes or a pump to serve each large compartment.

Finally, J/Boats was asleep at the wheel when they addressed the emergency tiller on our test boat. There was no dedicated place to stow the tiller, and the deck key used to install it was found in the cabin below, instead of with the tiller. Installed, the rudder worked fine, much better than others weve ranted about.

Performance

We test sailed hull No. 10 in the Gulf of Mexico off of Naples, Fla. The boat was equipped with racing cut Doyle Technora sails: a partially battened mainsail and a roller-furling 105 genoa. A 680-square-foot asymmetrical spinnaker can fly from the retractable bowsprit, but with squalls to the east and just two people on board, this spinnaker stayed in the forepeak.

True wind was from the east at 6-8 knots with gusts to about 17 knots when the rain came. Seas were 1-2 feet.

Under power at 2,800 RPM, the boat averaged 6 knots and at 3,250 RPM 7 knots. At wide open throttle in flat water, it held 7.4 knots. Handling under power with the twin rudders was excellent. With the centerboard up or down, the J/95 easily spun in its own length. Not only is this an advantage when docking, but should a crew member fall overboard, a well-drilled crew should be able to execute a near-perfect Quick Stop maneuver (see January 2010 issue).

On a close reach in about 8 knots of breeze, the boat averaged 5.3 knots and tacked through 92 degrees, including any leeway, with the board up. With the board down in about 12-14 knots of breeze, the boat averaged 6.3 knots and gained about 2 degrees to windward on each tack.

J/Boats advertises upwind speeds of 6.5 knots and tacking angles of less than 90 degrees with the board up, and angles better than 85 degrees with the board down. Based on the test boats performance, this is well within reach of a well-sailed, well-tuned boat. The fastest average speed under sail came when a squall brought about 15 knots of wind on the beam. With the true wind at 120 degrees, the boat marched off at 7.2 knots, taking the strongest gusts in stride.

In terms of handling and balance, the J/95 sailed exceptionally well, holding a groove better than many larger boats weve tested. Johnstone attributes the reliable helm control to the twin rudder design. Many good CCA-era boats, Johnston points out, ran into trouble when the wind piped up.

“On some of the old boats, and on many shoal-draft boats today, when the boat heels over, there just isn’t enough rudder in the water for it to do its job,” says Johnstone. “The twin rudders are key to making this design work.”

Board up or board down, the boat handled gusts extremely well, never once heeling excessively or fighting to round up. Close hauled and reaching, the boat balanced superbly, and even with the wind aft of the beam and the sails trimmed for speed, the helm delivered finger-tip control.

Although we could point the boat slightly higher with the 200-pound centerboard lowered, the most noticeable effect of lowering the board was a stiffer ride and a reduced angle of heel.

Given the anemic state of the new sailboat market, J/Boats initially expected to sell one J/95 a month until buyers hopped off the fence. Nine months into production, the company was on hull No. 18, and interest in the boat doesn’t show any sign of waning soon.

Its success can be partly attributed to the J/Boat name and the southward migration of aging Boomers, who are settling into retirement homes on the shallow estuaries of Florida and the Carolinas. No question, if you are a shallow-water sailor looking for a high-performance daysailer thats easy to sail right from your backyard dock, the J/95 has few peers. Whether the model takes off as a one-design fleet or the thin-water sailors preferred PHRF boat will depend on what the future holds.

One question mark is price. True, a bronze centerboard adds significant construction costs (about $15,000 according to Rod Johnstone), but a $180,000 day boat with camp-style amenities is a not our idea of a contender in the one-design realm. And if we were going to pay big money to pursue our passion, wed expect to see a little more attention to detail from the builder.

A second potential hurdle is the allure of a multihull. The Corsair Dash, reviewed in the May 2010 issue, is also well-adapted to shallow water, and goes for less than half the price of the J/95. The two are very different animals, but if a brisk high-performance ride in shallow water is your goal, multihulls have a strong appeal.

Over the long haul, the boat should hold its value well. J/Boats remains one of the most recognized names in performance sailing, and even some race scarred veterans hold their own on the used boat market. No, the J/95 is not Finisterre , but given our own experiences in the Gulf of Mexico, its an exciting option for a wide range of shallow-water sailors-not just the greybeards inspired by Carleton Mitchells exploits.

Bottom line: We like the J/95 concept, and its performance, even with the centerboard raised, is remarkable. Fitting out details could be improved, but we imagine the company will quickly address most of our gripes, which are not expensive fixes.

The J/Boats marketing allusion to Finisterre is just silly, but we suspect that if Mitchell were alive today, he would like the J/95s mission. As he confronted the inconvenient truths of old age, Carleton Mitchell, one of the most passionate and eloquent champions of sailing, spent his last years on the shoalwaters of Biscayne Bay, Florida … reluctantly driving a powerboat.

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CREATING AN ALUMINIUM SAILBOAT FOR BLUEWATER CRUISING

"I have always been fascinated about the idea of sailboat traveling on the ocean energy self-sufficient like the satellite rounding the earth. Producing its own energy by the power of wind, sea and sun.

The Li Yachts project started with my own desire of the boat that will be used in dive expeditions with aim to reach even the remotest locations – and I wanted to do that with freedom of fossil fuels."

Voyage started from my hand drawn sketches. Here drawing the 47 ft centreboarder.

We have designed a 40 ft centreboard pilothouse sailboat made of aluminium and the 33 ft version is in initial sketch stage. My search for the perfect cruising boat lead me to start the design project and a company called Li Yachts in 2015 in Finland. The name was borrowed from my old aluminium yacht and now refers to low impact because of sustainability goals.

The basis for the project was a life-time passion for the sea. Contributing personal factors included my long sailing experience in Nordic waters and the technical and artisan education I had completed earlier. Also my desire to realise long research expeditions on the world’s oceans in the future was part of my personal background.

The strongest motivational factor was the fact that I was not satisfied with the properties of most modern yachts. Based on the above, the need for a totally new sailing boat concept crystallised

Late autumn gale approaches, I'm dreaming of keeping watch from warmth of the pilothouse.

My goal in the Li Yachts project is to create a modern sailboat made of aluminium, the simple and strong tool for bluewater cruising. The main design elements will include safety, practicality and sustainability The new design concept covers production, use and maintenance. Zero pollution and high level of recycling of materials are some of the specific goals. Please read more about the background in The Blog  page.

At a very concrete level, I have understood what changes in design will be needed for the boat of the future when I have been owning, sailing and re-building an old aluminium sailboat called Li built in 1967 , since 2011.

During the years with my current aluminium yacht, I have kept notes on the observations as regards the design elements which could be improved. In many cases they would actually need to be drastically redefined in order to satisfy my dreams as to the perfect expedition sailboat. For more information of these details, kindly see  The Concept  page.

Familiar snowy views while winter sailing at 60°N has given lessons on how well an aluminium sailboat intended for high latitude sailing should be insulated.

I believe I am not alone with my thoughts. I think most experienced sailors would share my ideas. I believe many of them have actually realised there is a need for some basic changes in the design as regards our future yachts.

As the resources of the world are becoming more and more scarce, we need to take this into consideration, in addition to considering the improvements needed in other operational details of a sailing boat.

Please contact me in case you need more information or want to share design or production ideas. At the moment we are working hard to be able to build the 40 ft prototype. The goal is to produce a small serie, which would give reasonable priced opportunities for the first interested sailors.  I hope that a new advanced and sustainable aluminium sailboat will soon sail the seas and oceans of the world.

Fair winds,

Simo Nyrönen

Founder of Li Yachts

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Centerboards on cruising boats?

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Considering moving up to a Morgan 34 - boat has a long keel - draws about 3.5 feet and a centerboard that adds about 4.5 feet when lowered - not really a( heavily) ballasted board just for better windward sailing. Not sure if it is worth the hassle - when working properly - yes - but things that could go wrong: broken raising mechanism or line ( wire) banging about while at anchor centerboard trunk getting encased with barnacles ( boat in Florida) It does increase sailing performance and allow to get into shallower areas - especially helpful for keys and Bahamas Anyone with experience with centerboards on cruising boats have some thoughts?  

CB down while on anchor greatly reduces both roll and noise. If you do preventive maintenance on the BC, there should be no sudden failures. Barnacles are broken down by using the CB, or at least going up and down on it at least once a month. It would not be my first choice for serious offshore passages, but that lower draft comes in very handy when cruising.  

I am a big fan of keel-centerboard boats. I have sailed on quite a few over the years and my Father owned a 42 foot keel centerboard boat in Florida for a long time. I think that they are a super way to keep decent performance while being able to sail into shallower venues. With the centerboard down, they generally point quite well, and with the board up they are quick downwind. You can also bring the board part way up to help balance weather helm. There is some more maintenance to a centerboard boat, but assuming that the boat is in decent shape, the additional maintenance is nothing extreme and certainly not enough to rule out buying one. I have always heard people claim that centerboard boats 'clunk' on the anchor. I have not experienced that, even in a pretty rolly anchorage. The Morgan 34 was a particularly nice boat for that era. They sailed very well across a broad range of conditions. There was two versions, one with a long keel and attached rudder and a second version with a shorter keel and a skeg hung rudder. (The long keel versions offer no real advantages and skeg-hung rudder version sailed better all around but are rarer than the long keel.) Morgan 34's were lovely boats to look at. They were pretty well built compared to something like a Pearson or Columbia of the era. They came in several different interior finish levels from simulated wood Formica bulkheads and to a more upscale scheme with nicely finished varnished mahogany plywood bulkheads, both with mahogany trim, and later I think they may have had teak plywood and teak trim. I have seen these boats with Herreshoff style interiors (White bulkheads with mahogany trim) but suspect that was an owner who painted out the Formica. I would at least look at the boat (and listen for clunking when a powerboat wake hits.) Jeff  

We love our board. We use it all the time, sailing and at anchor. Beyond the obvious deeper draft/better windward ability, it can also be used to trim the boat, easing weather or lee helm. There's nothing in the centerboard rule book that states it must be all the way up, or down. At anchor, it eases the roll when the anchorage is a bit lumpy and we sail a lot less at anchor with the board part way down. As for the mechanism failing, I don't see any reason to suspect a problem with it if one maintains it as one should any important gear aboard. We seem to get almost no growth inside the trunk or on the board that is inside the trunk. Tropical growth may require more light than can get in there or perhaps the water gets stagnant and hasn't enough air to support growth? Anyway, both here and in RI it hasn't been a problem. If you really need a detraction, many centerboard trunks can develop leaks, and they can be very expensive to fix. Many times the owners will just close up the slot instead.  

What about pounding to weather with the board down? Does the board slam up and down? Also, ever have water enter the cabin via the slot in rough weather? I was on a Moody 419 that had a hydraulic system to rise/lower the board. I didn't think boards were so heavy as to require hydraulics. Also, and this may seem trivial but does the cable sing with the board down?  

If the board is down all the way, it will bang a bit, now and then. @ a reputed 2500# I doubt ours will slam up and down. A few drops of water came up the cable tube when we occasionally sat on the bottom in the slip in East Greenwich, RI and heeled over a bit, but never underway or at anchor. Just cut a bit of hose to raise the top of the tube a few inches. The cable remains inside the trunk at all times . The top of the board is not hanging down below the boat to waggle about. The full length of the board is supported by the trunk.  

Good thread, pertinent info since we are in the market for center cockpit center board boat. Since most everything is encased in the trunk how does one know the board, pivot pin (hope that is what it is called), pin bushing and cable and attachment are all in serviceable condition? Taking the board out for inspection doesn't sound like a few hour job.  

Have a Pearson 35 of the same era with a center board. Basically only use the board in the harbor to decrease turning radius and sailing hard on the wind. Board doesn't make any noise on the wind. If the board is down off the wind and boat rolling heavily, it will bang. Since I find it only really helps on the wind, not an issue on other points of sail. At anchor, the board will bang if lowered. No need to lower it so never a problem unless I forget to raise it. Have never had a problem with fouling in the trunk or the lifting mechanism in the going on 12 years I've owned the boat. Did have another CB boat that ate the cables regularly. High strength synthetic would cure that problem today. Nice to have the added windward ability the board affords when needed and not have the drag when it's not. Boat is plenty stiff. The board is encapsulated in the ballast so no leak issues.  

I have the Morgan 24/25and my dock neighbor has the 34. His 34 is the early version with a bronze board mine is the fiberglass encapsulated. There is little board motion in either boat Both of us restored the boards soup to nuts and are delighted wth the handling as a result. in a 45 year old boat reolacing the bronze pin pennant cable and if necessary sime of the bilge sheaves wasnt a big deal and assured good operation. The cable connectd to the inner hull via a stainless tube which slides through a stuffing box. the packing is easily replaced which allows a good seal without impeding the sliding motion. I keep the gland nut hand tight and it remains leak free. ThT 34 is a lovely handling boat and brighten the decor and youve got a nice boat. I wish you the best! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk  

I've had centerboards and a swing keel over a period of 46 years and have never had a problem with barnacles in the trunk. My current boat (since 1996) has a 3000# swing keel. It never bangs at anchor but will bang almost imperceptibly in a confused sea. Never had a failure with any of these boats, but have done preventative maintenance like replacing pennants on a 10-15 yr cycle. I did upgrade the 1.5" dia swing keel pin from 304 to 316 SS to address a pitting issue that resulted in weeping at the inboard seals. There was never a concern about mechanical failure with the old pin, but I am aware of horror stories with in-water failure of the smaller diameter pins on older CB boats. Worth checking for wear as part of a survey.  

Never owned one but have raced or cruised several as crew. Hinckley Bermuda 40 banged to point couldn't sleep on Marion race. Light air with big swell running ~50 awa thing had non rhythmic bang. Ted Hood design had light grounding while swinging at anchor. Afterward board wouldn't go up or down. Hauled and found gravel in slot. Hard to pick out. Nevertheless, think a wonderful concept. Was seriously thinking of having a Boreal built for me as the lack of freedom from low draft is limiting. Now thinking about lifting keels. Jeff what is your thinking about those? Seems you would get better avs as can have a lead bulb. Better windward performance as no limitation on chord shape. Less wetted surface as no trunk as in keel/centerboard. My concern is damage in a grounding with keel down.  

My Chrysler 26 has a lifting keel. actually it has a 3/4 half keel also, best of both worlds I guess. I can sail with the drop keel up most of the time for more speed. Or I can have it down to point better or in rough weather. I never hear it at all. As far as grounding that is what I like about it the most. when going slow in new territory looking for anchorage or what ever I have it down. When it stops the boat I know I am too shallow, so I just raise it up and backtrack or deviate. Much easier than trying to get pulled off. I believe it is 2000# Herreshoff design.  

My Tartan 27's original board lasted 48 years before I rebuilt it! Not a bad run I'd say. I had to repair the pennant once. With my current rebuild of the pennant, board and pin, I expect the board to outlive me. As to use, even though the Tartan had to be designed to sail effectively without the board, per MORC standards, the performance with the board is lightyears better on all points of sail. I get some clunking on a reach, but nothing to drive you batty. A couple of days ago I anchored out the clean the bottom. I dropped the board and it was very clean (although I was embarrassed by the rest of the bottom. Been a little lazy diving this season). Growth is retarded when the board is in the trunk. The only other issue I've ever had was running aground in pebble/rocky bottoms and small rocks get stuck in the trunk, preventing the board from dropping. A dive with a screwdriver usually fixes this. Good luck. Skywalker  

I have a New Bombay Trading Company Explorer 44 with a center board. I spend hurricane season in a bay in Grenada. Fouling in the center board casing is an issue. Some barnacles but the real problem critters are the mangrove oysters. I can pay a diver to clean them out with a machete or I can set off with a little slack in the cable. As soon as the board drops I slacken it off a little more. Repeat. This crunches up the critters. The boat yard I use [ Carriacou Marine ] gives me time in slings to clean out the casing and antifoul the board.  

Jeff, one word, Mega 30. OK two words but that boat had a lifting keel with bulb. A co-worker had one in Florida he sailed. Complained about the roller and keel corrosion at the contact point. Think it had a single lifting point for retraction.  

The Mega 30 had a cast iron keel and I don't think that they had rollers. I think that they had hard plastic pads that acted as bearings and rode up the side of the keel removing paint over time. I had hoped to avoid that by using rollers and not having the bearing surface be metal, or use something like embedded Monel plates if it was metal. Jeff  

I have a Freedom 33 with cb, the cb weght is more than a ton and you need a winch to raise. Howewer i do not have any problems with noise or bernacles. Once i get stuck in a reef and i only raise the cb to get the boat free. The only downside is that my cb trunck is in the middle of the saloon and will split the main cabin in two. I can anchor were no others can and is very easy to move up and down. Take a look on youtube about the new Garcia 45 sailboat, i think this is the trend for many new sailboats.  

K&M has been building 53' high latitude boats with lifting keels in Al to a Dystra design for over a decade now. With some tweaks it's my dreamboat.  

Our centerboard is our secret weapon to windward. Never an issue with fouling. Only clunk I have ever heard is when the admiral let the line slip when lowering it to quickly  

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Sailboat Centerboard: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 5, 2023 | Sailboat Maintenance

Short answer sailboat centerboard:

A sailboat centerboard is a retractable keel or fin located in the center of the boat’s hull. It provides stability by counteracting lateral forces from wind, allowing the vessel to sail closer to the wind. The centerboard can be raised or lowered based on water depth and sailing conditions, optimizing performance and preventing damage.

How Does a Sailboat Centerboard Work and Why is it Important?

Sailing enthusiasts and novices alike often marvel at the various mechanisms powering a sailboat. Among these, the centerboard stands out as an integral component, responsible for maintaining stability and optimizing performance . In this article, we will delve into the inner workings of a sailboat centerboard and elucidate its significance in enhancing your sailing experience.

So, how does a sailboat centerboard work? Essentially, a centerboard is a retractable fin situated beneath the hull of a sailboat, extending downwards into the water during navigation . Its primary purpose is to counteract the lateral force generated by wind pushing against the sails . This opposing force helps prevent excessive sideways movement known as leeway, allowing sailors to maintain their desired course more effectively.

A sailboat centerboard operates on the principles of hydrodynamics – the study of fluid in motion. When deployed, it increases surface area interacting with the water flowing past it. This enlarged profile creates resistance or drag that counters any tendency for sideward drift caused by wind force. By adjusting the depth or angle of the centerboard in relation to prevailing conditions, sailors can optimize its effectiveness in counterbalancing lateral forces .

Beyond mitigating leeway and maintaining course direction, a properly functioning sailboat centerboard has additional benefits that significantly impact performance and safety on open water. One such advantage lies in its ability to reduce heeling or tipping over of a boat under heavy wind pressure. As wind pushes against sails located above water’s surface—as it exerts pressure below—the upward force acted upon by lifting is minimized. Consequently, stability increases since there is less likelihood for excessive tilting.

Another crucial aspect wherein a sailboat centerboard manifests its importance pertains to sailing upwind—a direction slightly against or across wind flow. When facing headwind or diagonal flow positions relative to desired destination points—common scenarios when racing or maneuvering near shorelines—a well-designed centerboard facilitates improved progress regardless of adverse wind angles. By countering the wind’s lateral push, sailors can capitalize on much-needed leverage to navigate against or across it more efficiently .

For those seeking to explore shallow waters or navigate closer inland with their sailboats, the centerboard becomes even more critical. Its retractable capability enables sailing in relatively shallow depths without damage to underwater components or grounding the boat entirely. This versatility expands horizons for sailors, opening up new destinations inaccessible to boats lacking this ingenious mechanism.

In conclusion, understanding how a sailboat centerboard works and its indispensability allows sailing enthusiasts to appreciate the intricacies of sailing at a deeper level. By countering leeway, reducing heeling, enabling optimal progress against headwinds, and facilitating navigation in shallow waters, the centerboard plays a pivotal role in enhancing not only performance but also safety on the water. So next time you set sail , take a moment to admire this humble yet remarkable component that enables you to harness the power of wind while maintaining control and stability in your aquatic adventures.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Sailboat Centerboard

A Step-by-Step Guide to Using a Sailboat Centerboard: Unleash Your Sailing Potential!

Ahoy, fellow sailing aficionados! Today, we’ve set sail on the vast sea of knowledge to explore the intricacies and wonders of using a sailboat centerboard. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just dipping your toes into this nautical realm, this step-by-step guide will empower you to harness the full potential of your vessel and navigate through the majestic waters with finesse and precision.

But wait, what exactly is a centerboard? Well, dear reader, it’s an essential component of many sailboats that aids in maintaining stability and steering control. Acting as a keel extension, this retractable fin-like device resists lateral movement caused by wind pressure, enabling your vessel to sail closer to the wind while minimizing drifting. It’s like having your very own aquatic co-pilot!

Now that we’re acquainted with our trusty sidekick aboard our seaworthy vessel let’s dive into our step-by-step exploration:

1. Preparing for Departure: Begin by ensuring your centerboard is clean and free from any debris or obstructions. A thorough inspection is crucial to avoid any unwanted surprises once we set sail . Give it a gentle wiggle (the board, not yourself) to ensure smooth operation before departing on your maritime adventure.

2. Deploying the Centerboard: As you start sailing into open waters with moderate wind conditions, it’s time for action! Begin by pulling up on the rope or handle attached to your centerboard hoist mechanism – watch in awe as the centerboard gracefully emerges from its resting place belowdecks. Now locked into position perpendicular to your boat’s hull, it will provide maximum stability and efficiency as we glide through the waves.

3. Adjusting for Optimal Sailing: Picture yourself at the helm—a salty breeze caressing your face—and now it’s time to harness the power of your centerboard. In light wind conditions, you may opt for a partially lowered centerboard to maintain maneuverability and optimize speed. An artful balance between depth and agility is key here – adapt to the changing winds like a true seafaring maestro!

4. Taking Advantage of Wind Changes: Ah, the whims of Mother Nature! As fickle as she may be, we sailors must stay vigilant. When facing shifting winds that feel more mischievous than helpful, adjusting the vertical position of your centerboard can make all the difference. Raising or lowering it incrementally allows for continuous optimization, ensuring you stay on course and glide through those unpredictable gusts with confidence.

5. Navigating Upwind: Now comes the real test of seamanship – battling against Beaufort’s breath! When sailing upwind against a headwind, our loyal centerboard becomes our trusted ally in steadying our vessel’s course amidst choppy waters or fierce gusts. Fully deployed and firmly fixed into place, it counteracts leeward drift while granting us superior control over our waterborne steed.

6. Docking Maneuvers: Alas, every voyage must come to an end eventually; however, docking your vessel need not be a daunting task. Ensure you raise your centerboard fully before entering shallow waters to prevent any unnecessary damage – closely monitor depth soundings using nautical charts or other navigation aids if available.

Congratulations! You’ve now become well-versed in unlocking the full potential of your sailboat’s centerboard prowess – from deployment to adjustment and everything in-between. You possess the knowledge required to navigate these majestic seas like a seasoned captain!

Remember, dear reader: Sailing is both an art and a science; mastering it requires patience, practice, and an unyielding love affair with the elements at play. With this guide in hand (or rather screen), go forth, embrace the wind, and let your sailboat dance across the sparkling waves – for you hold the key to unlocking unlimited horizons!

May fair winds and following seas guide you on your maritime escapades. Bon voyage, fellow sailors!

FAQs About Sailboat Centerboards: Answered

If you’re new to the world of sailing, you’ve probably come across the term “centerboard” at some point. Whether you’re considering buying a sailboat or just curious about how these vessels work , it’s natural to have questions. In this blog post, we’ll answer some of the most common FAQs about sailboat centerboards and provide you with a detailed professional, witty, and clever explanation. So let’s dive in!

Q: What is a sailboat centerboard? A: A sailboat centerboard is a retractable fin-like appendage situated at the bottom of the hull. It extends vertically from the boat’s keel to counterbalance lateral forces caused by wind on the sails . In simpler terms, it helps keep the boat from tipping over or being pushed sideways when sailing against strong winds.

Q: How does a sailboat centerboard work? A: When sailing upwind or reaching close-hauled (sailing as close to the wind as possible), the centerboard is lowered into the water. As air flows over the sails pushing against one side of them, it creates an equal and opposite force known as lift that pushes against the other side of the sails – this lift is what propels us forward! However, because not all forces act directly forward on a sailboat due to its shape and size in relation to wind speed/direction; there will always be some component trying move your boat sideways i.e., leeway.

The centerboard counters this leeway by providing extra resistance in the opposite direction, minimizing sideward movement while keeping your boat moving forward toward its target destination.

Q: Why are sailboats equipped with retractable centerboards ? A: Sailboats come in many different shapes and sizes designed for various purposes – racing, cruising, etc. Having a retractable centerboard enables sailors to adapt their boats’ characteristics based on different conditions. For example:

– Racing enthusiasts generally prefer deep-draft, fixed centerboards that provide maximum lift and minimize leeway. – Cruising sailors, on the other hand, may opt for shallow-draft centerboards to allow them to explore shallower waters without running aground.

Q: How do you operate a sailboat centerboard? A: Operating a sailboat centerboard is relatively simple. Most sailboats have a winch or handle located in the cockpit area near where the sailor steers the boat (the helm). By turning this winch or handle, you can raise or lower the centerboard. It’s important to keep an eye on depth sounders and navigation charts to avoid grounding when lowering.

Q: Can you sail without a centerboard ? A: While it is possible to sail without a centerboard , doing so will drastically affect your boat’s handling characteristics. Without a centerboard, your boat will be much more prone to being pushed sideways by strong winds, making it harder to maintain control and stay on course. So unless you’re experiencing very light winds or plan on drifting around aimlessly, we highly recommend keeping that trusty centerboard deployed!

There you have it – FAQs about sailboat centerboards answered! We hope this detailed professional, witty and clever explanation has cleared up some of your questions and inspired you to learn more about these fascinating vessels. Now go out there and enjoy the thrill of sailing while harnessing the power of those amazing centerboards!

Understanding the Mechanics of a Sailboat Centerboard

When it comes to sailing, understanding the mechanics of a sailboat centerboard is crucial. Often overlooked or misunderstood, the centerboard plays a vital role in maintaining control and stability while out on the water. In this blog post, we will delve into the intricate workings of a sailboat centerboard, shedding light on its importance and functionality.

Firstly, let’s define what a sailboat centerboard is. Essentially, it is a retractable keel that extends downwards into the water from the hull of a boat . Typically made from wood, fiberglass, or metal, the centerboard serves as an adjustable weight that helps counteract the forces acting upon the boat while under sail .

One of the key functions of a centerboard is to resist leeway, which refers to any sideways movement caused by winds pushing against the sails . As sails generate lift and propel the boat forward by harnessing wind power, they also create lateral force that tends to push the boat sideways. Without a centerboard or any other form of lateral resistance, sailors would be at the mercy of these forces and struggle to maintain control.

By deploying or lowering the centerboard partially or fully into the water column through mechanical controls located inside or outside of the cockpit area, sailors can leverage its resistance against leeway. The deeper it goes within limits dictated by draft restrictions and navigational hazards in shallow waters),the more effective it becomes at countering lateral forces .

To better understand this concept imagine yourself holding an inflated balloon filled with helium on an open field during windy conditions. As you let go of it without holding anything else down to oppose its ascent force (lateral force), you’ll find yourself watching helplessly as it drifts away directionlessly with no means for adjustment – much like being caught in uncontrollable leeway on a sailing vessel without utilizing a robustly designed centerboard.

Hand-in-hand with resisting leeway is maintaining stability. When winds gust up, sailboats can heel or tilt to one side. Centerboards help counteract this tipping force by relying on their shape and the water ‘s pressure against them to generate a countering force called “hydrodynamic lift.” The combination of the centerboard’s weight and shape creates an opposing moment that balances out the forces acting on the boat, keeping it level and stable.

Furthermore, when sailing upwind or close-hauled, sailors can adjust the centerboard angle relative to their desired tacking point for optimum performance. Lowering the centerboard enhances windward ability by reducing sideways movement (leeway) while also adding essential lateral resistance. However, in downwind conditions or when reaching (sailing off-wind), raising or retracting the centerboard minimizes drag and improves overall speed.

It is worth noting that not all sailboats have centerboards; some rely on fixed keels or other types of lateral resistance systems such as daggerboards. Nonetheless, understanding the mechanics behind a sailboat centerboard allows sailors to grasp its significance in controlling leeway and maintaining stability under different sailing conditions.

In conclusion, a sailboat centerboard is more than just a retractable appendage protruding from a boat’s hull – it is an integral part of navigating smoothly through open waters. Serving as both a defense against leeway and as a stabilizer against heeling forces, the functionality and adjustability of the centerboard contribute significantly to harnessing the power of wind for efficient sailing . So next time you set foot onto a sailboat with a centerboard system in place, take a moment to appreciate its intricate mechanics and remember how it enables you to enjoy your time on board with confidence and control.

The Benefits of Using a Sailboat Centerboard in Different Wind Conditions

Introduction: Sailing enthusiasts are well aware of the importance of efficient sailing techniques in different wind conditions. One of the key elements that can greatly impact a sailboat’s performance is the centerboard . A sailboat centerboard , also known as a keel or daggerboard, plays a crucial role in stabilizing and maneuvering the vessel while harnessing the power of the wind. In this article, we delve into the benefits of using a sailboat centerboard in various wind conditions, shedding light on how this ingenious mechanism can enhance your sailing experience.

1. Stability like no other: When it comes to ensuring stability while sailing, particularly in fluctuating wind conditions, nothing beats a sailboat with a properly functioning centerboard . This retractable vertical fin positioned beneath the hull serves as an underwater wing and helps counterbalance the force exerted by winds from different directions. As gusts barrel onto your sailboat unpredictably, leading to unexpected heeling or tipping moments, deploying your centerboard provides additional resistance against lateral forces and dramatically stabilizes your vessel.

2. Precise control over direction: Navigating through varying wind conditions demands precise control over the course you steer—the ability to maintain desired headings without being at nature’s mercy. A sailboat centerboard offers remarkable advantages in this aspect.

In lighter winds: When gentle breezes prevail, retracting or partially lowering your boat’s centerboard reduces drag and enables easier maneuverability. The reduced displacement allows your vessel to glide smoothly through calm waters with minimal resistance while maintaining flexibility in changing directions swiftly.

In strong winds: On those days when Mother Nature unleashes her full might through formidable gusts, deploying your mighty centerboard ensures superior traction. By plunging deep into the water column and increasing leeward resistance while simultaneously minimizing sideways movement or slipping (commonly known as leeway), you gain immense control over maintaining course integrity even amid powerful crosswinds.

3 . Harnessing upwind potential: As any avid sailor knows, sailing against the wind is a unique challenge that requires strategic skills and proper equipment. The centerboard emerges as an essential component in overcoming this obstacle effectively.

Maximizing lift: Sailors face the greatest adversities when navigating into the wind zone known as “close-hauled” or beating, where wind deflection and limited propulsion options become significant hurdles. Here, deploying a sailboat centerboard to its full extent unleashes powerful hydrodynamic forces beneath the hull’s surface. The increased lateral resistance resulting from precisely angled water flow over the centerboard generates lift—a concept similar to how an airplane wing rises—and enables your boat to maintain forward momentum compared to sailing without a centerboard.

Adjusting angle of attack: In varying winds, tweaking the angle of attack (AOA)—the orientation at which your sailboat intersects with oncoming air—is instrumental in maximizing efficiency and power. A retractable centerboard offers unrivaled flexibility in adjusting AOA by altering its depth below the waterline. In light winds, you can raise it slightly for reduced drag while still benefiting from sufficient stability. Conversely, stronger gusts necessitate dropping it deeper into the water column, optimizing both stability and lift generation.

4 . Enhanced safety measures: Sailing adventures come with inherent risks that can be mitigated through proper planning and equipping oneself with appropriate tools . A functioning sailboat centerboard acts as more than just an enhancer of performance—it also contributes significantly to making your voyages safer.

Preventing grounding: As many sailors know all too well, shallow-water regions or unexpected submerged obstructions pose threats to navigation safety. In such situations, swiftly retracting your centerboard reduces draft—the vertical distance between waterline and keel—allowing access to shallower areas without grounding your vessel .

Minimizing capsize potential: While no sailor longs for a capsize event, preparing for the unexpected is vital. A deployed centerboard positions a low, weighted portion beneath your boat ‘s hull, acting as a counterbalance against gust-induced tipping forces. This helps reduce the likelihood of flipping your sailboat and enhances overall stability, ensuring you and your crew stay safe even in challenging conditions.

Conclusion: Unleashing the full potential of your sailing experience necessitates understanding and capitalizing on every advantage at hand. The benefits accrued through utilizing a sailboat centerboard in various wind conditions are profound—enhanced stability, precise control over direction, extended upwind capabilities, and improved safety measures. So, next time you embark on a sailing adventure, make sure to give due consideration to this ingenious mechanism that can transform even the most challenging wind conditions into an exhilarating journey.

Top Tips for Maintaining and Repairing Your Sailboat’s Centerboard

Maintaining and repairing your sailboat’s centerboard is an essential task that every boat owner should master. This vital component plays a crucial role in the maneuverability and stability of your vessel, ensuring smooth sailing experiences. If you want to keep your sailboat running smoothly and maintain its peak performance, here are some top tips for maintaining and repairing your sailboat ‘s centerboard.

1. Regular Inspections: Prevention is key when it comes to keeping your centerboard in optimal condition. Make it a habit to inspect your centerboard regularly, preferably before and after each sailing season. Look out for any signs of wear, cracks, or damage on the board itself and the associated fittings such as pivot pins or lifting mechanism. By catching potential issues early on, you can prevent further damage or costly repairs down the line.

2. Cleanliness Is Crucial: Saltwater can be harsh on any boat component, including your centerboard. After each sailing session, make sure to thoroughly rinse off any saltwater residue from both the board itself and its hinges or moving parts. You can use freshwater or mild soapy solution for this purpose. Additionally, proper lubrication of the centerboard system will help prevent corrosion and ensure smooth operation.

3. Addressing Corrosion: Over time, corrosion may occur due to continuous exposure to saltwater or neglecting regular maintenance routines. When dealing with corroded parts of the centerboard system such as bolts or nuts, it is recommended to use penetrating oil like WD-40 (or equivalent) to loosen them up before attempting removal.

4. Replacing Hardware: If you notice any broken or worn-out hardware during inspections, do not delay in replacing it promptly. Whether it’s a missing bolt, damaged pin, or malfunctioning lifting mechanism – these components are essential for the proper functionality of your centerboard system.

5.Professional Assistance: Sometimes repairs require professional expertise beyond our own capabilities – and that’s okay. If you encounter any complex or major issues with your centerboard, it is advisable to consult a professional boat technician or sailboat repair specialist. They have the necessary experience and knowledge to handle more complex repairs and can ensure the job is done right.

6. Storage Considerations: When your sailing season concludes or if you plan on not using your sailboat for an extended period, proper storage practices are vital. Ensure that your centerboard – especially if it’s a retractable version – is well protected during this time. Thoroughly clean the board, remove any saltwater residues once again, and apply a protective coating such as marine-grade grease before storing. This will prevent corrosion and keep your centerboard in good condition until your next adventure.

By diligently following these top tips for maintaining and repairing your sailboat ‘s centerboard, you will not only extend its lifespan but also enjoy smoother sailing experiences for years to come. Remember, regular inspections, cleanliness, addressing corrosion promptly, replacing worn-out hardware timely, seeking professional assistance when needed, and proper storage practices are all essential aspects of keeping your sailboat ‘s centerboard in optimal shape. Happy sailing!

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13 Popular Trailerable Sailboats with Lifting Keels

Trailerable boats come in a wide range of styles, sizes and capabilities. Dinghies and small sport boats are easy to trailer and even car top, but what if you're looking for something you can take some place, and maybe spend a weekend on board?

One good way to open a lot of shallow cruising grounds and gunkholes and to make your trailering life easier is to add a lifting or swing keel to the boat. With drafts under a foot on some models, these boats will give you a lot less trouble with overpasses, wires and launching.

While this isn't an exhaustive list, these thirteen popular boats will give you an idea of the range of trailerable boats with lifting keels you can find on the market. Some are older and no longer built, and you can find some of them at the boat shows and ready for purchase new today. Whether you're looking for a day sailer or a weekender for a couple to gunkhole along the coast, here are some great boats to consider.

Catalina 22 Sport

• Com Pac Eclipse

Flying Scot

• Islander 24

MacGregor 26

Montgomery 17, norseboat 17.5.

• Seaward 26 RK
• West Wight Potter 15/19

Most of these builders have several boat models, and several them have specialized in pocket cruisers, trailerable boats, and smaller hulls. Remember the specific model listed may be a good sample of their work, but check their entire lineup for something closest to what you want.

13 Biggest Trailerable Sailboats: Cheap But Good

Also - not all these boats are still in production, though they you can find them for sail used. Links are to the builder where possible, or to information pages to learn more if the builder is no longer around. Because we're looking at smaller boats, they won't likely be listed on brokerage sites, so you'll need to search for them on places like Craigslist, class association sites, and smaller regional boat sales sites and for sale boards.

On this page:

Com-pac eclipse, seaward 26rk, west wight potter (15 and 19), finding your boat.

First introduced in 1970, the Catalina 22 has been one of the most popular trailerable boats since its inception, though the Mk II update added a few inches of beam and couldn't race the Mk1 boats under one design class rules. The 22 Sport updates the classic original, while returning to the specifications for class legal racing out of the box with the original 22. It has a retractable lead keel, or an fixed keel option, and has berths below for up to four people. It's an easy weekender to launch and sail, with ready made fleets for fun, competitive racing.

Find the specs here

Com-Pac specializes in small, compact trailerable sailboats. The Eclipse is a solid example of their sloop-rigged boats. With a 21 foot overall length, 7'4" beam, and a 2,200 lbs displacement, it will tow easily with a modest vehicle. Down below, you'll find a double v-berth and space for cooking and food preparation. This converts to sleeping space with two additional quarter berths.

When looking for a trailerable pocket cruiser, look at the entire Com-Pac line.

Over five hundred CS 22 hulls were built in their production run in the early 70s, and this sturdy little cruiser is still a popular boat if you can find one on the used market. They conceived it as a lightweight, trailerable cruiser. It has a stubby externally ballasted keel with centerboard for added stability and pointing.

Though small, the interior has sleeping accommodations for four, a small galley, and a space for a portable toilet, making it a suitable choice for short expeditions and weekending. Though scarce today, the CS 22 is a good example of compact design that helped set the standard for later pocket cruisers.

The Flying Scot is a day sailer, and a popular design with over a hundred racing fleets around the U.S. It's an older design, having been in production for over fifty years, but this 19 foot sloop will still get a small group out on the water for a day of sailing and fun. Although it doesn't have an interior, clever and adventurous sailors have rigged up boom tents and other means to spend the night on their boats. Options on new boats include space for motor mounts, swim platforms, and higher end racing packages, and there is a strong market for parts and equipment.

The Hunter 22 is an updated replacement for the retired Hunter 216, another popular trailerable boat. The boat can be configured in a cruising setup with a V-berth and portable toilet, or a performance package with a sprit and asymmetrical spinnaker. For the size, it's a good value mini-cruiser with good performance and enough comfort to keep a small crew for a weekend. Depending how you configure your Hunter 22, it can run the gamut from comfy pocket cruiser to sporty day sailer.

Note: Hunter Marine changed names to Marlow-Hunter, though there is an enormous base of used boats with the Hunter brand.

There are several varieties of the MacGregor 26 beyond the base boat, including the 26D (1986-89), 26S (1990-95), 26X (1995-2003) and 26M (2002-2013). MacGregor boats have proven very popular trailerable boats, selling over 38,000 boats during the company's lifetime.

The Mac 26 differs from many small sailboats by two things - water ballast for stability, and the ability to take what is, by small sailboat standards, a massive outboard engine. A seventy horsepower engine on a 26' sailboat can make it hit planing speeds under power. This popular boat is a compromise - the water ballast, hull design, and smallish rig make it a somewhat underpowered sailboat, but it will sail. But if there is no wind, the Mac owners will still beat everyone back to the bar even while towing a water skier.

Their blend of form, function and design have made them controversial boats with experienced sailors, but there is no doubt the MacGregor 26 has gotten thousands of new boats on the water and built a loyal following for one of the most popular trailerable boats ever sold.

After the closure of MacGregor yachts, the Tattoo 26 was developed from the Mac 26 and is almost identical in performance capabilities and design.

Built at first with a fixed keel with an optional centerboard, orders for the keel/centerboard version outstripped the original and more centerboard versions were built. If you're looking for one, make sure it's the right version.

Lyle Hess and Jerry Montgomery designed the Montgomery 17 as a cruising capable, trailerable boat. The lapstrake fiberglass hull deflects spray and chop, and the 1,550 lb boat gives a stiff, dry sail. The cuddy cabin below has comfortable space for two adults, space for a portable toilet, and ample storage for gear and supplies. A four-part tackle rig makes raising the deck stepped a snap.

NorseBoats specializes in lighter day sailers and trailerable boats with a classic look but modern build and design concepts. Marketed as the "Swiss army knife" of boats, any of their offerings meet the criteria for an easy to trailer and handle boat with a shallow draft. The 17.5 can take a small outboard, has two rowing stations, and comes with a carbon fiber, rotating mast for easy setup and break down and solid performance under sail.

The larger NorseBoat 21.5 has an optional cabin version, with more sheltered space for sleeping and living than the open version.

The venture is a sixteen foot day sailer, and a modern design which can be sailed by up to eight people. The Venture has options for fixed keel, a centerboard, or a ballasted centerboard. As a forgiving design, it's a popular boat for inexperienced sailors and sail training, but still has enough power to be interesting and fun for skilled sailors as well. The RS Venture Connect features a lifting keel.

RS Sailing develops and sells many performance oriented small dinghies and day sailors aimed at a range of sailing skill and applications, from sail training dinghies to high performance racing skiffs.

Hand built with carbon fiber and vinylester resin over balsa core, this little boat is lighter than expected, but still sails well with options for a fixed keel or centerboard. At 16'10" overall, a 6'9" beam, and 1,300 lbs it's an easy boat to handle. But down below it's got a V-berth sized for adults and seating for two down below. The lapstrake designed hull deflects water and spray for a drier, more comfortable ride.

The smaller Sage 15 is another option for a lightweight boat using the same modern materials and techniques in a classically styled package.

The Seaward 26RK is the successor to Nick Hakes’ Seaward 25, with an edge to more comfort and better performance in a similar price to the last generation yacht. The result is the 26RK with more waterline, more buoyancy aft, and a lifting keel.

One of the larger boats on this list, the Seaward 26 RK, is still easy to move over land with a trailered weight under 6,000 pounds. The boat alone displaces 3,800 pounds, with 1,200 lbs. of that in retractable ballast with a bulb on the bottom. The keel lifts with an electric motor and is simple to operate. The cockpit is comfortable for four and has options for wheel or tiller steering.

Down below you'll find four six-foot berths and seating for four. Interior configurations include options for an enclosed head and v-berth, and a two-burner stove in a small galley.

Seaward Sailboats began sharing construction facilities with Island Packet Yachts and are sold through the same dealer network.

For over fifty years, the West Wight Potter has been a compact, trailerable option for a weekender and vacation boat. The fifteen and nineteen foot models have been fixtures at boat shows and in harbors, and sailors have even crossed oceans in these doughty little boats. The fifteen displaces only 475 pounds, with 165 pounds of ballast in the lifting keel. It's self righting and self bailing, with added foam for stability and floatation. The 19 is heavier at 1,225 pounds with 370 pounds of ballast, but the extra volume adds two more quarter berths, more headroom, space below, and more waterline.

With a kick up rudder and retracting keel, these little cruisers can be beached or taken in shallow waters. They designed the hull for stability and reduce spray for a dry and comfortable sail. Factory options include several creature comforts, sail options, and even trailers. With over 2,600 West Wight Potter 15s built and 1600 of the nineteen footer, there's a ready market of these pocket cruisers for sale.

While the big boats get the glory and high profile spots at the shows, smaller trailerable boats are what most people can buy. The corners of the shows where you see the West Wight Potters and Com-pacs to be just as exciting to me as the main docks filled with forty and fifty footers, because these smaller boats invoke a different adventure. An attainable adventure, for so many more people.

There's an array of smaller boats you can store in your garage or backyard and take out for everything from a casual day sail to a long summer vacation. This list gives you a flavor of what's out there in the trailerable boat market, but it's up to you to decide where you want to go and how you want to get here.

The article is headed by a photo of a S2 7.9 but that boat did not make your list. IMO the best trailer boat .

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You may also like, what is a swing or lifting keel 14 pros and cons explained.

If you need to know what a swing keel is, like me, this article is for you. I'm trying to decide what keel type is right for me, so I dove into the swing keel.

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Choosing a Centerboard or Fixed Keel Sailboat

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Centerboard or Fixed Keel?

You need to consider many different questions when deciding what kind of sailboat is best for you .

Depending on the general size range of the sailboats you may be interested in, you may need to choose between fixed-keel boats and centerboard (or swing keel or daggerboard) boats. This article will help you choose which is best for your needs.

As only a very general rule, most sailboats over 20-something feet have fixed keels. Most sailboats under 15 feet or so have centerboards. But there is a wide range of boats from 12 to about 25 feet with either a fixed keel or a centerboard. For example, in this photo, ​the boat on the left has a fixed keel, while the boat on the right, of about the same size, has a centerboard.

If you are shopping for a sailboat in this range, you should understand the differences between these fundamental types of keels.

Fixed Keel Sailboats

Virtually all large racing and cruising sailboats have a fixed keel. A keel is needed to keep the boat from being blown sideways at all points of sail except downwind. A keel also provides weight low under the water to lower the boat’s center of gravity below the waterline, which is needed so that the boat bobs back upright if knocked over by wind or waves.

Sailboats have many different types of fixed keels , such as full keels (see photo) and fin keels. If you decide a fixed keel boat is best for your sailing purposes, consider also which type keel best meets your needs.

Centerboard Sailboats

On centerboard sailboats, the centerboard functions like a keel to keep the boat from being blown sideways. (All sailboats need a keel of the board for this reason: the narrow, flat surface of the board or keel produces little drag when the boat moves forward but resists motion sideways.)

The centerboard usually hangs down below the hull from a pivot at one end. It can be raised by pulling a line that swings the centerboard up into a centerboard trunk along the center of the boat, as shown in the photo.

Some small boats, like a Sunfish, have a removable daggerboard rather than a centerboard. The daggerboard has the same function, but rather than swinging down, it is inserted like a blade down through a slot in the hull to protrude like a thin keel below the hull. A swing keel is another term used for a type of keel that like a centerboard can be raised.

A centerboard may or may not be weighted. If the centerboard is weighted, then it also provides weight low in the water, like a keel, to help keep the boat upright (although not as much weight as a fixed keel can supply). If the centerboard is not weighted, like the fiberglass centerboards of many small sailboats, then sailors must keep the boat upright by positioning their own weight on the upwind side of the boat. 

Benefits and Disadvantages of Fixed Keel and Centerboard Sailboats

Fixed keels and centerboards each have their own benefits but also disadvantages. When deciding what type of boat to buy, be sure you have considered these differences:

Advantages of a Fixed Keel:

• Provides the most ballast to resist capsizing and ensure recovery from a capsize
• More effective at preventing leeway (sideways movement of the boat)
• Crew do not have to position body weight to prevent capsizing (see photo)
• No centerboard moving parts to break or jam

Disadvantages of a Fixed Keel:

• With deeper displacement, the boat cannot enter shallow water
• The boat is heavier for its size (usually an issue only when trailering)
• With deeply fixed keels, the boat may not fit on a trailer at all (25 feet is typically the largest trailerable fixed keel sailboat) - requiring the inconvenience and expense of a boatyard for launching, haulout, and storage

Advantages of a Centerboard:

• The centerboard can be raised to decrease displacement to allow the boat into shallower water – and it should swing up and back if it hits the bottom when sailing with it down
• The centerboard can be raised for faster downwind sailing
• The centerboard can be partially raised if needed to provide better boat balance
• Most centerboard boats can be trailered and easily launched and hauled out on boat ramps (larger centerboard boats may require deeper ramps)

A popular trailerable centerboard sailboat is the MacGregor 26 , which with its water ballast has the advantages of centerboard boats but not all the disadvantages.

Disadvantages of a Centerboard:

• Provides no (unweighted board) or less (weighted board) ballast, compared to a fixed keel, to resist capsizing and ensure recovery from a capsize
• Less effective than a larger fixed keel at preventing leeway (sideways movement of the boat)
• The centerboard trunk takes up space in the boat’s cockpit or cabin
• The centerboard pivot and control line involve moving parts and can jam or break

Finally, some historic crafts have leeboards instead of centerboards; these boards, mounted outside the hull on both sides, can be pivoted down like a centerboard to resist leeward motion. And some sailboats have fixed keel-centerboard combinations, which provide ballast and prevent leeward motion even when the centerboard is up but also provide the option to attain less leeward motion sailing upwind when the board is down.e a centerboard to resist leeward motion. And some sailboats have fixed keel-centerboard combinations, which provide ballast and prevent leeward motion even when the centerboard is up but also provide the option to attain less leeward motion sailing upwind when the board is down.

• Choosing an Inboard or Outboard Engine
• Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat – 1. The Parts of the Boat
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• How to Use a Mainsheet Traveler
• How to Tack a Sailboat
• How to Anchor a Sailboat
• How to Gybe a Sailboat
• Using a Sailboat Boom Vang in Sailing
• Do It Yourself Boat Trailer Tongue Extension
• Simple Reefing System for Sailors
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• How to Rig a Preventer Line
• How to Use a Topping Lift

magnum trimaran for sale

SMALLER AND LIGHTER

Where to go.

SINGLE HANDING

Family beach-tri, customer feedback.

How is it made unsinkable?

What is the construction material, why are the bows of each float not level with the bow of the principle hull.

Can it be capsized or pitchpoled?

Can it be righted if is does become capsized, are the amas for the magnum 21 the same as for the virusplus, would the amas (floats) be large enough to form a kataram for two, is there access to the inside of the amas, how long does it take to rig or derig, single-handing.

How about raising the mast?

The mast can be hauled into position by a single person using the purchase of the main sheet blocks provided that lateral movement is prevented by the use of temporary short shrouds attached to the rings that hold the floats on (see below). But even this is unecessary unless you have strong winds. I now lift the mast up in one movement on my own. I have the spinnaker halyard already attached to the bow and once the shrouds are tight I pull on the mast-foot-end of the halyard until it is tight. Then the mast is secure and I can attach the forestay via the jib furler at my leisure.

During mast erection or lowering a couple of short temporary shrouds will help stabilise the mast in windy conditions or when you are doing the job alone.

Note the use of the main sheet attached to the ring at the bow intended for the gennaker. This gives plenty of mechanical advantage and makes the job of raising or lowering the mast really easy.

Performance with outboard motor?

Performance under sail?

Details of the sail plan, light winds.

Heavy weather performance?

How high is the boom?

What about a boom tent, what colours are available.

Magnum 21S Trimaran

Country/Region of Manufacture: France

Hull identification number: MO287 D 505

Magnum 21S - 2005 year. Stored in barn in Sussex This boat has had a lot of upgrades / work done to make it easy to sail shorthanded. It is great for daysailing adventures with a real turn of speed. 12 knots is not uncommon... Upwind performance is good in flat water and she points much better than a Hobie cat or Dart. She can be also be pulled up on a beach.

Draft is 1.4m with centreboard down. Bothe the rudder and centerboard have breakaway cleats that pop up if you touch the bottom. This prevents any damage. With foils up she draws a few inches. Can be stored on the trailer, mooring or marina.

With practice, 2 people can rig the boat from trailer to sailing in under an hour. There are some good videos on line that give tips. She can easily be sailed singlehanded, including the Code Zero/furling gennaker. Unsinkable design with foam filled hull and armas. I have had a lot of fun with this boat in UK and Greece but selling as I now have a larger yacht.

• Specification • Repainted topsides (Toplac) and polished white areas. Needs re-waxing /polishing but paint good. • Full bespoke storage cover - covers main hull and trampolines with zip cut outs for mast and shrouds. Made from Sunbrella - high quality with zips etc. • New composite rudder (2016 from Virus) with spare wooden original (in VGC) • Reinforced trampolines in good condition plus a brand new spare set from Virus.

One of the trampoline rods is missing a plastic end cap - replaced with gaffer tape. • New halyards, trapeze lines and some new sheets (2016). • Upgraded kicker with clam cleat 2016. • New jib - made by Batt sails 2016 • Spare jib in decent condition • Mainsail with 2 reefing points. One small repair but sail in good condition • Fully battened Mainsail converted to track cars - much easier to hoist and lower.

• Jib chute with line to raise. Protects jib from UV • New mainsail cover (2016). Much easier to leave main rigged than removing main each outing. • Lazy jacks • Topping lift • Upgraded metal camcleats on mast and boom. Some are side entry for ease of use.

Plastic lam cleats replaced • Barely used asymmetric spinnaker with new Hyde snuffer (2016) • Code zero on continuous line furler. Works very well for short handed or higher winds reaching up to 65 deg apparent. * Extending bowsprit for spinnaker. Plastic bush on bow for Bowsprit is cracked and has repair to limit any water ingress. • Furling gennaker • New main block with ratchet and adjustable sheeting angle (much easier to handle in a blow) • Danforth style anchor with Anchor bag.

• Additional cleat and fairlead for stern mooring or anchoring • Masthead wind vane (installed 2016) • Coppercoat antifouling • Compass• GPS "speed puck" readout mounted at base of mast. • Trailer with new wheel bearings 2016. £500 spent. I am selling without outboard but have a 6hp 4 stroke Mercury outboard in good condition fresh from service that I could negotiate to include for additional price. I also have a 10 HP Honda 4 stroke that gives 10knots under power.

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For sale Villa, Moscow, Moscow, Russian Federation, Moscow, Razvilka, SNT Polyana,

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For sale - Cod. 29804

• Tipology: Villa
• Area: 260 m²
• Rooms No.: 9
• Publication date announcement: 08/11/2016

Plot -4 hundreds, actually - 5. All central communications on site - parking area at 5 m / m, a relaxation area (garden furniture, barbecue, children / playground), flower gardens, flower beds and lawns, fruit trees. All solid coverage area paved with stone blocks. UTILITIES area: livnestochnaya system parking zone, automatic street lighting and electricity, automatic gates, intercom, video surveillance (2 cameras). Year Built - 2010 Year of decoration and landscaping plot - 2016. The house is fully furnished.

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Express. Home of the Daily and Sunday Express.

Desperate vladimir putin plunges 22 million russians into darkness in bitter -22c winter, moscow is to be plunged into darkness as putin ordered rolling blackouts amid freezing temperatures, according to reports..

Vladimir Putin has reportedly ordered rolling energy blackouts across Moscow as temperatures reach - 22C. The blackouts are said to cover the entire metropolitan area of Russia's which has a total population of around 22 million. The order issued states that electricity is "not to exceed 12 hours per day" with the blackouts in place from January 14 through March 31 2024, according to Ukraine commentator Igor Sushko.

Sushko posted on X: "The entire Moscow metropolitan area, population 22 million, will have rolling blackouts of electricity "not to exceed 12 hours per day" from January 14 through March 31, 2024. - announced by the fascist state."

READ MORE: WW3 fears explode as Putin ally warns Poland is 'next' target on Putin's hitlist

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It comes after a heating main ruptured at the Klimovsk Specialised Ammunition Plant in Podolsk, about 30 miles south of central Moscow, on January 4. As a result, tens of thousands of Russians are said to be without heat in their homes in the Moscow region due to subzero temperatures.

According to a map published by a Russian Telegram channel and circulated on various social media platforms, the affected areas include cities such as Khimki, Balashikha, Lobnya, Lyubertsy, Podolsk, Chekhov, Naro-Fominsk, and Podolsk.

Residents in Moscow, specifically Balashikha, Elektrostal, Solnechnogorsk, Dmitrov, Domodedovo, Troitsk, Taldom, Orekhovo-Zuyevo, Krasnogorsk, Pushkino, Ramenskoye, Voskresensk, Losino-Petrovsky, and Selyatino, are also experiencing power outages, according to other Russian media reports.

DON'T MISS: Joe Biden sends 'private' warning to Iran after striking Houthis in Yemen [LATEST] White House staff forced to hide as heated pro-Palestine protest unravels [REPORT] Vladimir Putin's ex-military chief warns Russia will run out of troops in weeks [COMMENTS]

Power outages have been reported in St. Petersburg, Rostov, Volgograd, Voronezh, and Primorsky. Meanwhile, a huge fire tore through a large warehouse used by Russia ’s largest online retailer south of St Petersburg on Saturday morning.

The blaze covered an area of 70,000 square meters, with 50,000 square meters of the Wildberries warehouse collapsing, according to Russia ’s Emergency Situations Ministry. No casualties were reported.

Videos posted to social media appeared to show employees running down fire escapes and fleeing the scene. A video shot from a passenger jet flying nearby showed flames totally engulfing the warehouse, sending huge plumes of smoke into the sky.

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Home & House Stagers in Elektrostal'

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Featured Reviews for Home & House Stagers in Elektrostal'

• Reach out to the pro(s) you want, then share your vision to get the ball rolling.
• Request and compare quotes, then hire the Home Stager that perfectly fits your project and budget limits.

A home stager is a professional who prepares a house for sale, aiming to attract more buyers and potentially secure a higher selling price. They achieve this through the following techniques:

• Rearranging furniture to optimize space and functionality.
• Decluttering to create a clean and spacious look.
• Making repairs to address visible issues.
• Enhancing aesthetics with artwork, accessories, and lighting.
• Introducing new furnishings to update the style.

Their goal is to present the house in the best light. Home stagers in Elektrostal' help buyers envision themselves living there, increasing the chances of a successful sale.

• Home Staging
• Decluttering
• Furniture Selection
• Space Planning
• Art Selection
• Accessory Selection

Benefits of the home staging in Elektrostal':

• Attractive and inviting: Staging creates a welcoming atmosphere for potential buyers.
• Faster sale: Homes sell more quickly, reducing time on the market.
• Higher sale price: Staging can lead to higher offers and appeal to a wider range of buyers.
• Showcasing best features: Strategic arrangement highlights positives and minimizes flaws.
• Stand out online: Staged homes capture attention in online listings.
• Emotional connection: Staging creates a positive impression that resonates with buyers.
• Easy visualization: Buyers can easily picture themselves living in a staged home.
• Competitive advantage: Staging sets your home apart from others on the market.
• Affordable investment: Cost-effective way to maximize selling potential and ROI.
• Professional expertise: Experienced stagers ensure optimal presentation for attracting buyers.

What does an Elektrostal' home stager do?

What should i consider before hiring an interior staging company, questions to ask potential real estate staging companies in elektrostal', moscow oblast, russia:, business services, connect with us.

How much do Magnum boats cost? Magnum boats for sale on YachtWorld are listed for a swath of prices from $13,388 on the relatively more affordable end, with costs up to $5,060,943 for the most expensive, custom yachts. What Magnum model is the best? Some of the most widely-known Magnum models now listed include: 53, 44, 38, 27 and 40.

Find Magnum Sail Trimaran boats for sale in your area & across the world on YachtWorld. Offering the best selection of Magnum boats to choose from.

Trimaran sailing vessels for sale on YachtWorld are available for a variety of prices from $6,900 on the relatively moderate end all the way up to $3,015,520 for the most expensive yachts. Trimaran By Condition. Used Trimaran 89 listings . New Trimaran 45 listings . Manufacturer of trimaran.

View a wide selection of Magnum boats for sale in your area, ... Trimarans; Pilothouse Sailboats; View More; PWC; Personal Watercraft; View More; Types. Back. Types View All ... Magnum 51 Bestia: Beauty and the Beast. More Magnum Reviews Magnum By Model. Magnum 53 7 Listings. Magnum 38 6 Listings.

DAY BOAT OF CHOICE. With more than 400 units afloat already the MAGNUM 21 trimarans have clearly demonstrated that they are the day boats of choice for safety and ease of use. In the matter of fast day boats, they set the standard today. As for the new 21.S, clubs appreciate their increased power, notably with a full load in light airs.

Magnum Magnum 70 3 listings. Magnum 45 2 listings. Magnum 50 2 listings. Magnum Magnum 27 Starfire 2 listings. Magnum Magnum 50 Bestia 2 listings. Find Magnum boats for sale in your area & across the world on YachtWorld. Offering the best selection of Magnum boats to choose from.

VirusBoats have replaced the popular but anachronistic VirusPlus with this classic, new 18ft trimaran based on the outstandingly successful concept that was realised in the Magnum 21 trimaran. By doing away with the traditional but seldom used cabin on a day boat and dispensing with a keel they have created fast, fun yet safe multihulls for the modern family.

Now there is a wide range of trimaran day boats. VirusBoats introduced a smaller Magnum 18 and then in 2004 AstusBoats picked up the idea of the trimaran day boat and have run with it, creating a wide range from an exciting 16ft open cockpit trimaran to 20ft & 22ft & even 24ft trimarans with cabins thereby catering for all tastes and budgets within this genre.

2004 Virus Boats Magnum 21 Trimaran for sale. Used 2004 Virus Boats Magnum 21 Trimaran for sale is located in Truro (England, United Kingdom).This vessel was designed and built by the Virus Boats shipyard in 2004. Key features 2004 Virus Boats Magnum 21 Trimaran: length 6.4 meters, beam 4.08 meters, boat displacement 350 kilograms and max boat draft 0.2 meters.

2006 Virus Boats Magnum 21S Trimaran for sale. Used 2006 Virus Boats Magnum 21S Trimaran for sale is located in Horsham (England, United Kingdom).This vessel was both designed and built by the Virus Boats shipyard back in 2006. Key features 2006 Virus Boats Magnum 21S Trimaran: length 20.67 feet, beam 14.11 feet, boat displacement 771.62 pounds and max boat draft 0.59 feet.

Fast, unsinkable trimarans! Fun, safe, secure, comfortable, easily trailed. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT THE magnum 21 OPEN COCKPIT TRIMARANS - Revolutionary family day boats ... This is only necessary in pre-2006 Magnum trimarans. Up to 2005 the floats have been tied on top of the boat for transport. From 2006 there is a new system that ...

2006 Virus Boats Magnum 21S Trimaran for sale. Used 2006 Virus Boats Magnum 21S Trimaran for sale is located in Horsham (England, United Kingdom).This vessel was designed and built by the Virus Boats shipyard in 2006. Key features 2006 Virus Boats Magnum 21S Trimaran: length 6.3 meters, beam 4.3 meters, boat displacement 350 kilograms and max boat draft 0.18 meters.

Virus Magnum 21 imported French trimaran. This listing is no longer available. You can however view similar listings using one of the four links below.

Boats for sale ⁄ / Sail ⁄ / Trimaran ⁄ / Magnum ... Trimaran: Length: 20.67ft: Fuel Type: Gas: Hull Material: Fiberglass: Offered By: Stay Nautica S.L. Description. 2006 Magnum 21.S. Muy poco uso Remolque carretera incluido Superficie vela "Dacron" 20 m2 Superficie vela Gennaker 16 m2 Superficie vela Spi 24 m2 Superficie Genova 9m2.

View a wide selection of Magnum 40 boats for sale in your area, ... Trimarans; Pilothouse Sailboats; View More; PWC; Personal Watercraft; View More; Types. Back. ... Magnum Express 40 . Miami, Florida. 1986. $350,000 Seller Allied Marine - Fort Lauderdale - Bahia Mar 6. Contact. 954-716-8583.

Trimaran boats. A trimaran is a specific type of multihull vessel that features three hulls and is typically designed for sailing or racing on open waters. Also known as a double outrigger, the arrangement is specifically comprised of a main hull with two smaller hulls that are attached by lateral beams. Some trimarans are used as ferries ...

Magnum boats for sale on iNautia are listed for a range of prices, valued from 11,900 € on the more basic models to 3,590,000 € for the most advanced boats. Higher performance models can take motors up to 4,000 cv, while more light-weight and functional models may have as low as 6 cv engines.

Good condition with a lot of expensive upgrades Magnum 21S - 2005 year. Stored in barn in Sussex This boat has had a lot of upgrades / work done to make it easy to sail shorthanded. It is great for daysailing adventures with a real turn of speed. 12 knots is not uncommon... Upwind performance is good in flat water and she points much better ...

For sale - Cod. 29804. Tipology: Villa Area: 260 m² Rooms No.: 9 Floor: 2 Publication date announcement: 08/11/2016 08/11/2016

Search 1,121 Elektrostal' new & custom home builders to find the best custom home builder for your project. See the top reviewed local custom home builders in Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia on Houzz.

Vladimir Putin has reportedly ordered rolling energy blackouts across Moscow as temperatures reach - 22C. The blackouts are said to cover the entire metropolitan area of Russia's which has a total population of around 22 million. The order issued states that electricity is "not to exceed 12 hours per day" with the blackouts in place from January 14 through March 31 2024, according to Ukraine ...

Magnum Boats For Sale '; The world of boating possibilities... New Boats/Yachts For Sale Used Boats/Yachts For Sale Super Yachts Just Listed Boat Searches Boat Gear & Accessories My Watch List My Email Alerts Boat Buying: Encumbrance Check Boats for Sale at Boats Online

Faster sale: Homes sell more quickly, reducing time on the market. Higher sale price: Staging can lead to higher offers and appeal to a wider range of buyers. Showcasing best features: Strategic arrangement highlights positives and minimizes flaws. Stand out online: Staged homes capture attention in online listings.

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Field hockey - Dinamo Elektrostal Moscow

Hockey Club Dinamo Elektrostal is a field hockey team from Russia, based in Moscow. The club was founded in 1994.

Dinamo Elektrostal Moscow - Results

2021/2022 2018/2019 2017/2018 2017 2015/2016 2013/2014 2011/2012 2007/2008

Men's Euro Hockey League - Final Round - 2021/2022

Dinamo elektrostal moscow - identity.

• Official name : Hockey Club Dinamo Elektrostal
• Country : Russia
• Location : Moscow
• Founded : 1994
• Wikipedia link : http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dinamo_Elektrostal

Dinamo Elektrostal Moscow - Titles, trophies and places of honor

• Best result : First Round in 2021/2022
• Best result : 1st
• 1 times first in 2010
• 1 times second in 2009
• 1 times third in 2017

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• © Info Média Conseil : 419 Rue Lemelin, St-François QC G0A3S0, Canada