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My sons and I work on sanding the topsides. The primer was brushed on and sanded to a smooth finish

Have you ever thought your boat’s topsides need painting? The most common answer to this question is, yes, but it costs too much.  Don’t worry will help you with this guide to How to Repaint Your Topsides

It doesn’t need to cost a ton of money. About 95% of the entire project is sanding and fairing the hull. That means you can do most of the work yourself and, if you really want to, you can use one of the newer two-part topside paints to get a superb finish. Or, if you do the work yourself and make sure the hull is perfect, you can have the boat professionally sprayed for far less than having a boatyard do the work.

My sons and I work on sanding the topsides. The primer was brushed on and sanded to a smooth finish

The first job is to sand the topsides back with 220 grit sandpaper on a rotary sander. (Note: Wear a respirator and Tyvek coveralls. Put elastic bands around the wrist and cuffs of the overalls.) Then fill all the dings and scratches with filler and sand every bump and mark out of the hull, taking care to remove all of the old paint.

The second sanding is accomplished with a long board (a board about four feet long) using 3M™ Hookit™ sandpaper. When I did it, I sanded horizontally and worked from forward to aft to make sure the boat was smooth and fair. The idea is to get the hull perfectly smooth and to remove all the old paint.

The finished hull is bright and shiny. Keeping the hull this shiny will take a lot of effort as soon as the boat gets outside

Sanding the hull on a J22 sailboat took nearly three weeks to get rid of the old paint, fix the dings and dents, sand the hull again with a longboard, apply an undercoat, sand it lightly, then apply a topcoat.  

How to Repaint Your Topsides - The topsides have been sanded and the hull is masked off ready for spraying

Masking Off

When painting topsides, you should mask off the boat trailer, supports, bottom paint and toe-rail. Professionals put a strip of masking tape along the boot top and along the deck edge.  

With this strip in place, the paper or plastic masking film can be applied. By placing the first strip on the hull, you can get it perfectly straight without having to bother with the masking paper or film. The edge of the masking paper is then taped to the first straight tape. Remember to press the edge of the tape down carefully to prevent paint from going under the tape edges.

If you plan to spray your hull, protect the hull bottom, trailer or supports and rudder. You should also cover the entire deck. Overspray gets everywhere and the only way to prevent problems is to cover everything.

Wipe Down With a Solvent

When you have finished sanding you need to wipe the entire hull with a solvent to remove sanding residues, any grease or oil that might be on the surface and prepare the hull ready for paint.  

You should use a solvent recommended by the paint manufacturer to be sure that solvent and paint are compatible. When wiping down with a solvent wear full protection to keep solvent off your skin. Also, remember not to put your hands or fingers on the hull. The oils from your skin can cause problems in the paint layer.

The first coat of topside paint has been sprayed on. Notice the bottom and the deck are covered, but you can see overspray on both surfaces

The next job is to paint the boat . You can spray or you can brush paint the hull. Brush painting takes longer, but you get a thicker coat of paint. If you spray, you may have to apply two or three coats of paint.

You should prime the hull with an undercoat, especially if the topside paint is a different color than the original paint. For example, if you hull is white and you plan to spray it dark blue, you might sand, then apply a grey or dark blue primer before applying the topcoat. Most primers are grey but you can get colored primers. Remember too, darker colors tend to heat up more in the tropics and degrade the paint layer faster or allow ‘print through’ to show after a few years.  

Brush Painting

Brush painting is all about technique. Mix and apply the paint according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some manufacturers recommend a sponge brush while other recommend a hair brush. Do not thin the paint too much when brush painting or it will run. Apply a small amount of paint at a time. I find an area from the toe-rail to boot top of about three feet to be the easiest to work with. For best results always keep a wet edge on the paint layer.

Apply the first strokes of paint horizontally to cover the surface, then gently stroke the brush from toe-rail to boot top, ideally, applying the brush on the toe-rail masking tape and lifting the brush off the job on the boot top masking tape. This prevents a mark from showing where you lifted the brush off the job. Work from forward to aft making sure you get full coverage. Check frequently to be sure you are not applying too much paint and getting runs. Most of the latest paints will settle and fill brush strokes as you work, but you will need to be sure you do not get any runs.

This is a rare image taken in the spray booth while the boat is being sprayed. Note how much overspray is in the air during the process. Rather than do this work myself, I had an expert painter spray the final coats.

Spray Painting

There are two main methods of spraying paint. The first is the conventional high-pressure spray, which tends to put a lot of paint in the air as well as on the boat. The second is low-pressure high-volume (LPHV), where a lower air pressure is used, and a higher volume of paint is applied. First, check to be sure your paint can be applied using the method that you desire. Some paints tend to clog the spray gun when used in LPHV systems.

You will need to protect yourself when spaying. Mask off the entire boat and wear a Tyvek suit, respirator, goggles, rubber gloves and bootees. Put elastic bands around wrist and ankles to prevent overspray from going up your sleeves and legs.

When you spray, work from side to side or from top to bottom starting the spray on the masking tape and lifting it off on the masking tape. Do not pause the spray as you work or you will build up a lot of paint and end up with drips and runs. Typically, you will need two or more coats of paint when spraying to be sure the paint layer is thick enough.

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TOPSIDE PAINTING

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A new paint job protects your boat, makes it look great, and makes it easier to clean. Which makes you happy. Lots of factors besides cost will influence your paint choice. It’s important to understand that topside  boat paint formulas differ by brand, and each has its own recommended primers, thinners, substrates, and surface prep methods. If you don’t have experience with a product, stick with the manufacturer’s recommendations or get stuck with a paint job that didn’t turn out as planned.

Tackling topside painting yourself can give you a professional-grade finish at about a tenth of what the boatyard charges—but only if you approach it the way the boatyard does. About 90% of your focus has to be on surface prep. If the surface is super smooth and faired before you pry open the paint can, it should be that way after the final coat has cured..

Choosing a Topside Paint

  •      Types of Topside Paints
  •      Compatibility with Previous Topside Paints
  •      Figuring How Much Topside Paint You Need

Topside Painting Equipment

  •      Supplies for Rolling & Tipping
  •      Spray Equipment Basics

Surface Prep for Topside Painting

Best conditions for topside painting, easy techniques and expert tips for topside painting.

  •      Thinning Topside Paint for Rolling & Tipping
  •      Rolling & Tipping Topside Paint Like a Pro
  •      Thinning and Spraying Topside Paint

Choosing a Topside Paint

Types of Topside Paints

  • They’re resistant to moisture and abrasion, and are very durable.
  • They have the flexibility to withstand hull expansion and contraction.
  • They’re designed to resist exposure to both direct and reflected, water-intensified ultraviolet light, maintaining color and finish.

But here the similarities end. These paints differ in the degree to which they withstand exposure to sun and water, in gloss, flexibility, durability, cost, and ease of application. There are also specialty topside paints, which are poly or enamel that contain additives to achieve a specific purpose. For example non-skid deck paint contains additives to achieve the non-skid properties.

In addition to topside paint, you’ll need a compatible primer to give the paint something to bond to. TotalBoat Topside Primer can be used as an undercoat for one-part polyurethane and enamel topside paints, as well as two-part polyurethane topside paints, unlike other topside primers. It covers in just one coat, dries quickly, and is easy to sand.

Simplicity is one of the best things about one-part polyurethane. It’s uncomplicated and easy to apply to interior and exterior surfaces above the waterline. No converters to measure and mix, and no induction times. Just stir to blend any solids that settled to the bottom of the can, then paint. And all you need to get a gorgeous, long-lasting finish is a brush and a roller. No special (expensive!) equipment needed.

We now offer an improved one-part polyurethane paint called TotalBoat Wet Edge that provides better self-leveling, stain and abrasion resistance, UV protection, flexibility, and durability. And it comes in 21 colors ranging from the more common ones to bold, vivid hues with exceptional color retention.

Two-Part Polyurethane Two-part polyurethanes out-perform one-part poly in terms of hardness, scratch resistance, DOI (distinctness of image, or gloss), gloss retention, color retention, and UV resistance. But all that beauty comes at a much higher price in terms of paint costs, painting equipment, additional personal safety equipment, and time–for surface prep, mixing, application, and curing. Also, they’re not as flexible as one-part polyurethane, and any repair touch ups will show.

Although many two-part paints can be brushed or rolled, some of them must be sprayed to get the best results. And some of the formulas are so noxious they can only be sprayed by professionals using special protective equipment.

If you want to use spray equipment, take the time up front to learn about the different spray guns and how they work, because some of them put more paint into the air and less on the surface than others, resulting in more wasted paint. Which you don’t want because expensive two-part polyurethanes require you to apply more and thinner coats than one-part polyurethanes. Also familiarize yourself with the types of personal protective gear required by each spray method.

If you decide to use a two-part polyurethane, know that it commonly requires a specific epoxy primer and is very sensitive to precise mix ratios of converter, paint, and reducer. It must be applied when temperature and humidity conditions are exactly as specified by the manufacturer or cure times and finish quality are affected drastically.

To apply by brush or roller, be sure you work in a well-ventilated area. If you want to apply with a sprayer, be sure you have sufficient ventilation, and obtain high-quality personal protective gear, including gloves, eye protection, and a proper vapor respirator because the overspray from these paints is toxic and extremely dangerous to inhale or to have absorbed into the skin.

Alkyd Marine Enamel These one-part alkyd enamels are widely used because they’re glossy, affordable, and easy to apply by brush. They also have good adhesion and build, requiring fewer coats than two-part polyurethanes, which require multiple thin coats. Because they’re oil based, alkyd enamels are good at handling the expansion and contraction of wood, and are compatible with wood’s natural oils. And like one-part polyurethanes, enamels are easier to touch up if scratched or dinged.

On the downside, one-part enamels are not as durable, requiring an annual maintenance coat, and they don’t have the higher gloss and color retention of the polyurethane paints.

Compatibility with Previous Topside Paints

In cases where the previous topside paint is in good condition, but you’re not sure what it is, it might be best to use a one-part polyurethane, or completely strip it. This is because one-part polyurethanes can be painted over other one-part polyurethanes or two-part polyurethanes. But two-part polyurethanes can only be painted over other two-part polyurethanes. They can’t be painted over one-part polyurethanes because the solvents in the two-part paint are likely to damage the underlying coat.

  • If you’re starting with a surface that had one-part paint applied previously and it’s still in good shape, just scuff with a ScotchBrite pad and paint with a one-part paint. If it’s in bad shape, remove it, then prime and paint.
  • If you’re starting with a surface that had two-part paint applied previously and it’s still in good shape, just scuff with a ScotchBrite pad and paint. If it’s in bad shape, remove it, then prime and paint.
  • If you’re not sure what the previous coating was, one option is to strip the previous paint. Otherwise, certain paint manufacturers have a solvent test you can do on the unknown surface to check for compatibility.

If the previous paint is showing widespread signs of separation, or is cracking and peeling, you won’t need to worry about compatibility. In this case, you’ll be scraping and sanding the surface down to the bare substrate, then applying a primer or undercoat before applying topside paint.

Figuring Out How Much Topside Paint You’ll Need

How heavily you apply the topside paint is a factor in determining the quantity. The amounts recommended below are calculated assuming maximum film thickness without causing runs and sags, and the application of two coats.

  • Personal protection for sanding and spray application of paint – paint suit with hood , eye protection, a NIOSH-approved chemical organic vapor cartridge-type respirator or fresh supplied air, and gloves
  • If the previous topside paint is cracking, peeling, or lifting, sand it off or save time by using a chemical stripper to remove it. Our TotalBoat TotalStrip paint remover is safe for gelcoat and fiberglass, and it’s easy to apply, odor-free, biodegradable, can strip multiple layers in a single application, requires no acid wash neutralization, and cleans up easily with just plain water.
  • Pressure washer if paint is loose, or a scraper and cleaning brush – for cleaning the hull before sanding
  • If sanding down old topside paint and not removing completely, use large diameter sanding disks and a right angle grinder or sander, dustless, if possible
  • ScotchBrite pads for scuffing between coats of topside paint.
  • Masking tape – use a high-quality masking tape that can be removed cleanly to protect non-painted surfaces. For taping curved surfaces, use a flexible tape that’s durable enough to snap a really nice line.
  • Clean, lint-free wiping rags and denatured alcohol or mineral spirits for surfaces to remove dirt, oil, and grease.
  • Dewaxing solvent for removing wax during cleaning, prior to sanding.
  • Tack cloth – tacky cloth for wiping down the surface before applying coating. Removes any lingering dust.
  • Synthetic mesh strainers for filtering contaminants when pouring paint from the can into your paint pot.
  • Optional items – Epoxy fairing putty to fill surface imperfections before priming and painting, a random-orbit sander to expedite sanding large areas and for sanding epoxy fairing compound, and a vacuum cleaner to help remove any sanding residue, even if using a dustless sanding system.
  • Appropriate thinner for the topside primer or paint – Use the solvent recommended by the manufacturer.

Supplies for Rolling & Tipping

With the roll & tip method, you apply the paint with a roller, then follow immediately with a brush–and a light touch–to smooth out the paint. This method lets you apply paint evenly, and achieve high gloss results that are similar to spraying. It takes a little practice to establish a rhythm, but yields a very smooth finish with no roller or brush marks. It’s also faster than brushing. Both the topside primer and the topside paint can be applied using this method.

  • Brushing thinner – Use the solvent recommended by the paint manufacturer for application by roller/brush. Mineral spirits is commonly used as a thinner for rolling and brushing.
  • For rolling : Use a high-density, closed cell foam roller to help prevent air bubbles. These foam rollers are best because nap rollers will leave hairs and will apply the paint too thickly and inconsistently.
  • For tipping : Use a soft-bristled, 3″ badger hair brush to smooth out the applied paint and remove any air bubbles introduced by the roller.
  • Paint trays and liners
  • Small sizes of badger hair brushes or foam brushes for cutting in.

Spray Equipment Basics

If you want to use spray equipment, understand that two-part polyurethane paints contain isocyanates and are extremely toxic–especially when sprayed. It’s best to leave the spraying of two-part polyurethanes to the professionals because the protocols for masking, air handling/filters, and respiratory protection are much more serious. The information provided here is intended to help you learn more about various types of spray equipment, not to teach you how to use a certain type of spray gun.

If you’re applying a one-part polyurethane by spraying, aside from good ventilation, make sure you have personal protective gear that includes a hooded paint suit, vapor respirator with proper cartridges (not a dust mask), gloves, and goggles. Also, check that you have the correct spray tip for your spray gun and your type of topside paint. For example, certain types of spray equipment and larger spray tip sizes are better for applying topside paints with a higher solids content. Both the topside primer and the topside paint can be applied using the spray method.

There are many types of spray guns available, but we’ll describe the ones most often used by do-it-yourselfers: conventional air guns, HVLP (high volume, low pressure) guns, and air-assisted airless spray equipment. Below is a brief overview. It’s important to take more time to learn all you can about the spray equipment you plan to use to ensure it can do what you want it to do.

Spray Tip Basics

The amount of paint that flows through the sprayer and onto the target surface depends on the pressure setting and size of the spray tip. Spray tips are rated according to orifice size, and vary by manufacturer.

  • Choose a spray tip of a size that’s appropriate for the job you’re doing, and the type of paint you’re using. For example, lighter coatings are sprayed with the smaller tip sizes, and heavier coatings, such as high-solids primer or topside paint, require a larger spray tip size.
  • Make sure your spray equipment can handle the tip size you need.
  • Some paint manufacturers include spray equipment specifications, gun types, and spray tip sizes in their product data sheets. Contact the paint manufacturer if you have questions or need recommendations.

1. Wash, De-Wax Twice, and Wash Again

Start by cleaning the hull with soap and water, rinse thoroughly, and let dry. Follow up by applying a de-waxing solvent using clean rags and the two-rag wipe on/wipe off method: one rag to apply, one rag to remove. Change rags often so you aren’t smearing the old wax over the surface. Repeat the dewaxing process. Finally, wash the hull thoroughly with a strong detergent such as TSP (trisodium phosphate) to remove any last traces of wax.

If the surface isn’t clean, sanding will drive dirt, wax, and other contaminants deeper into the substrate, compromising the quality of the finish. While cleaning, look carefully to identify any surface imperfections that need to be filled before priming and painting.

2. Fill Dents and Gouges

New paint will only hide the old color–not the old dings and dents, and will actually make imperfections stand out. Although a high-quality topside primer does have some minor filling abilities, it’s best to use a quick-drying, easy-sanding fairing compound to fill any surface imperfections first.

FILL DENTS AND GOUGES IMAGE

Apply the fairing putty. If using an epoxy fairing putty, apply it proud so it stands above the surrounding surface. This way it’s easier to sand down smooth after drying. To fair and smooth it, use a random-orbit sander. Start with heavy grit sandpaper to rough sand the area. For the final smoothing and contouring, switch to finer grit paper. Once you reach 220-grit, you’re ready for primer.

3. Sand and Wipe

This initial sanding is to prepare for application of the primer. Sand fiberglass or gelcoat, previously painted surfaces in good condition, or previously painted wooden boats with 220-grit sandpaper. For wood, use 180 grit and sand down to 220. After sanding, wipe the surface down with the solvent recommended by the primer manufacturer, for example, xylene or mineral spirits, and let flash.

Primer provides a solid foundation for subsequent coats of paint by doing the following:

  • Bonding to the underlying surface, and allows the topcoat to achieve a sound mechanical bond with it.
  • Sealing and hiding any repairs. Some higher solids primers even fill small scratches.
  • Separating the old topside paint from the new preventing any adverse chemical reaction.

5. Sanding Again

Lightly sand the primed surface with 220 or 320-grit sandpaper, or the grit recommended by the coating manufacturer. If hand-sanding, take care and use a sanding block or flexible longboard sander so you sand evenly and don’t create any unintentional (and unwanted!) dips in the surface.

If sanding with a random-orbit sander, set the mode switch to "random orbit" action (for finish sanding), not "random orbit with forced rotation" action (for aggressive sanding and polishing). It’s also very important to hold the sander flush with the surface and keep it moving to prevent swirl marks and dishing (low spots).

Certain masking tapes tear easily and leave traces of residue on removal. Use a high-quality masking tape that removes cleanly to protect non-painted surfaces. For taping curved surfaces, use a durable, flexible tape that lets you lay down a clean line quickly and easily.

7. Wiping Again

Ensure that any hand or fingerprints from masking, and any final traces of dust are removed prior to painting. Wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free rag soaked in mineral spirits, or the paint manufacturer’s recommended solvent, and allow to dry completely. Take care not to touch the surface before painting because the cure will be affected by any contaminants.

Plan your painting schedule ahead of time, taking into account the number of coats you need and the dry time needed between coats. Watch the weather and make sure the humidity and the temperatures for the paint, substrate, and ambient air match the paint manufacturer’s recommendations, which is especially important when spraying, or when rolling & tipping a two-part polyurethane topcoat.

To make painting easier, set up your scaffolding ahead of time. Start painting in the morning on a clear, dry day and avoid painting in windy conditions or in direct sunlight. Ideally, paint in the late morning when dew is not a factor. Time it so the final coat has time to dry before falling temperatures and nighttime dew set in. Any condensation on the uncured surface will decrease the glossiness of the finish. For best finish results, time your painting so rain will not affect full cure.

No matter what application method you use, be sure you have adequate lighting. Also, to minimize dust, dampen the floor or ground before you start painting. And if you’re painting outside, consider positioning the boat in a north-south orientation, so you can work on the shaded west side in the morning, and the shaded east side in the afternoon.

Thinning Topside Paint for Rolling & Tipping

Topside paints can be thinned with solvent to lower viscosity and improve consistency, making them flow more easily for rolling and tipping. Thinners, or reducers, come in several different types. Commonly, paints will have a different brushing/rolling or spraying reducer for optimal time for the solvent to flash off (evaporate). Certain paints may have a warm/cold weather reducer to optimize flow based on temperature conditions.

Always thin according to the paint manufacturer’s directions. Use the specified thinner in the amount suggested according to conditions such as air/substrate temperature and humidity. The goal is to only thin the paint enough so it lays down smoothly and levels out evenly, without runs, sags, or skips (holidays).

It’s a good idea to keep the thinner with you on the staging, so you’re prepared to make slight thinning adjustments while painting a section if the brush starts to drag while tipping. You want just enough thinner, so add only one capful at a time. Too much thinner will cause streaking.

If you’re applying a two-part polyurethane paint, mix the paint and converter first, taking care to mix these two parts thoroughly first. Then wait the designated induction time before adding any reducers or additives. Induction time refers to the initial slow stage in a reaction before the reaction accelerates. Induction times are typically required in two-part paints and epoxies after they are mixed but before they are ready to be applied.

Easy Techniques and Expert Tips for Topside Painting

Rolling & Tipping Topside Paint Like a Pro

There’s no stopping and no do-overs, so be sure you have the paint mixed properly, and enough paint in the roller tray and paint pot to complete each large section. Also, have the thinner handy to replace that which evaporates.

As far as what direction to roll and what direction to tip, the variations include: roll horizontally and tip horizontally, roll vertically and tip fore and aft, or roll fore and aft and tip vertically. To gain confidence, you might want to practice first on a piece of primer-coated plywood, and use the method that works best for you and your painting buddy.

Whichever style you adopt, get into a rhythm and keep moving or the paint will dry and the brush will drag. If you run out of paint part-way down one side and stop to get more paint, you’ll get an ugly ridge at the point where you stopped and started up again. Here are a few other things to keep in mind:

  • Check that your roller and brush are solvent resistant or the solvent in the paint will ruin them and they’ll fall apart.
  • To help prevent surface bubbles when rolling, be sure to use a 1/8″ nap high-density, closed cell foam roller. Large cell foam rollers or other types of rollers will cause bubbles and other texture problems, including sags.
  • Mix enough paint to do one whole section at a time, planning ahead for logical stopping points, such as after you finish one side of the hull. To make it less noticeable, pick the bow or a corner of the transom.
  • Load the roller evenly. If too heavy, the paint will run. If too light, you’ll get places where the paint is thinner and the gloss won’t be as good, or you’ll see skips (also called holidays) where there’s no paint at all.
  • Holidays are no picnic when you’re doing a rolling and tipping session, but they happen. If you get them, leave them alone. Touching them up will make them worse. After sanding, you’ll cover them with the next coat.
  • Avoid rolling the paint on too thickly. Aside from the potential for runs and sags in the paint, solvents can get trapped beneath the film when it skins over and affect the cure time.
  • Roll the paint on in small sections (for example, approximately 2 feet wide) that are appropriate for the size of the boat and the temperature (hot or cold) conditions. This gives the person rolling adequate time to distribute the paint evenly and keep the wet edge, and the person tipping enough time to tip without the brush dragging from drying paint.
  • Roll back toward the freshly tipped paint.
  • When tipping, use a light hand. You’re not applying or distributing the paint, just smoothing it out. Don’t overwork the paint or it will pull and fail to level out properly.
  • If the brush starts to drag even a little bit while tipping, mix a capful of thinner into the paint cup.
  • Paint starts drying really fast, especially when rolled out thinly on a hull. Don’t rush, but don’t relax or stop until you reach a logical end point, or it may be noticeable.
  • Apply 2-3 coats in this way, allowing for proper curing and any necessary sanding between coats.
  • Sanding between coats : Sand with 220-grit paper. Remove sanding residue by vacuuming, then wipe with a tack cloth, then wipe again with a lint-free rag dampened with the solvent recommended by the paint manufacturer. Allow the solvent to flash before applying the next coat.
  • After the last coat, remove the masking tape after–and no earlier than–1 hour for the best-looking line.
  • When you’re done, take a bow and give yourself a pat on the back. Sit back and admire your beautiful handiwork for a few days, giving the paint a rest and keeping it out of the hot sun until it cures.

Thinning and Spraying Topside Paint

Topside paints can be thinned with solvent to change viscosity and improve consistency, making them flow more easily for spraying. Thinners, or reducers come in several different types: some are better for warmer (slow reducer) or cooler (fast reducer) conditions; some are necessary for either brush/roll or spray application. Due to the extreme toxicity of sprayed two-part polyurethanes containing isocyanates, we do not recommend DIY spray application.

Thin one-part polyurethane according to the manufacturer’s directions using the specified thinner in the amount suggested according to conditions such as air/hull temperature and humidity. The goal is to thin the paint so it can be applied consistently. Typical thinning for spraying polyurethane paint is anywhere from 5-20%, depending on the paint. Be careful not to over-thin the paint or it will sag when sprayed on the hull, and will lessen gloss retention after curing.

Before you begin spraying, ensure that your work area is well-ventilated, and that you’re wearing appropriate, high-quality personal protective gear, such as a paint suit with hood, eye protection, a NIOSH-approved chemical organic vapor cartridge-type respirator or fresh supplied air, and gloves.

Results depend on the type of sprayer, and attention to the paint manufacturer’s recommendations for spray tip type and size, pressure, flow, and angle of spray.

Proper spray technique usually focuses on three things: aiming the spray pattern, your triggering technique, and your overlapping technique.

  • Aiming the spray pattern : Hold the gun upright at a consistent distance from the surface while spraying and move your arm while keeping the gun pointed straight at the target surface for a smooth, even finish. If, instead, you keep your arm still and move the gun in a fan pattern from side to side, the finish will be uneven.
  • Pressing and releasing the spray trigger : Start moving the gun before you press the trigger, and continue your arm motion after releasing the trigger to avoid creating added thickness at the beginning and end of each stroke.
  • Proper overlapping technique : To apply the paint evenly, each time you make a pass to spray, overlap by 50%. Point the spray tip at the bottom edge of the previous spray pass to ensure efficient overlap.

Common problems encountered while spraying include runs and sags, pin-holing, solvent pop, fish eyes, blistering, mottling, and orange peel. Practice your technique on something other than your hull, such as a primed piece of plywood. Sometimes the problem requires nothing more than applying the material in lighter coats, speeding up the gun movement, or holding the gun closer or further from the surface while spraying. Consult the manufacturer of your spray equipment or the paint manufacturer for specific usage and troubleshooting instructions.

  • Choosing a selection results in a full page refresh.

Sailingmates

A site for sailors, by sailors, painting sailboats, how to paint your sailboat topsides with two-part polyurethane, why use two-part polyurethane.

 If you decide to tackle painting your topsides, you’re starting a fairly big job no matter what the size of your boat.

However, you do have an alternative – you can pay a professional $200-$300 per foot ($825-$1000 per meter) to do the job for you.

If that number frightens you and you decide to paint the topsides yourself, you should know that you’ll spend 80% of your time preparing the hull for painting and 20% of your time actually painting.

So, having spent all that time on preparation, it seems reasonable that you should use the best possible finish you can.

If you’re looking for a finish that:

  • lasts at least twice as long as the one part product
  • has better abrasion resistance
  • has better chemical resistance
  • has better UV protection
  • and looks at least twice as good as a one part product.

you should use a two-part polyurethane.

the new polyurethanes

Up until recently two-part polyurethane was the preserve of professional spray painters. But today many paint manufacturers including Epifanes, Pettit, Awlgrip, Fabula, Insignia, Blakes, Seajet, Sterling and International (Interlux) are producing two-part polyurethane’s that they say are suitable for application by the roller and brush method.

That is, suitable for painters like you and me.

International, or Interlux as it is known in the US, has a product called Perfection which has been produced specifically for non-professional painters using the roller and brush method of application. By all accounts painters like you and I can achieve excellent results with this product as long as we followed the directions for preparation and painting outlined in their bulletin available here

things you should know about Perfection

  • You cannot paint over any one-part polyurethane or Alkyd marine paint. You must remove all the old paint before painting with Perfection. Old paint should be removed with a paint stripper. Do not sand the old paint off as you will contaminate the gelcoat with the old paint.
  • You cannot paint timber hulls except diagonal plank or strip plank hulls covered with epoxy finish. Two-part polyurethane on clinker or lapstrake hulls will crack as it is not flexible enough to absorb the movement in these hulls.
  • Perfection’s high-gloss finish will highlight, not hide, any underlying imperfections in the hull. So preparation is very important.
  • It can be applied over gelcoat, epoxy finishes and other two-part polyurethanes.
  • Perfection should be applied in dry, calm condition and out of direct sunlight. Temperature should be between 50 and 85°F (10 and 29°C) and humidity less than 65%.

Painting two-part polyurethane by roller and brush method is relatively simple. You’ll need good quality, high-density, closed cell, solvent resistant foam rollers and China bristle or Badger hair brushes for tipping off.

To apply the finish the paint is rolled on in thin coats and then tipped off with a brush to eliminate any air bubbles in the paint film. Tipping off is done vertically. It is best to work with a two-man team, one cutting-in and rolling and the other tipping off, always maintaining a wet edge. Clean and change the brush every 20 minutes and use a fine line masking tape such as 3M.

Practice makes perfect

You don’t want to go out and buy your paint, thinners, rollers and brushes and start painting your boat. You need to practice first. You need to get a feel of what you can do with this paint.

Two-part polyurethanes are sensitive to temperature and humidity and you need to understand how humidity and temperature affect the way the paint goes on.. You need to have an understanding of the amount of thinner you should be adding to the mixture for your conditions.

You could go out and practice on your dinghy or a surfboard, but by far the best idea comes from that guru of boat maintenance – Don Casey.

the glass method

Don recommends you practice on a sheet of window glass.

This will give you a very good idea of how the paint will flow on your hull, and you’ll be able to see the results of adding more or less thinners to your mix.

Don also recommends you cut a foam roller into three sections and buy a 3 inch roller frame. This way you get three small rollers and can do three test panels for the price one roller.

To do your tests on the glass, clean the glass thoroughly and stand it upright. Mix about 3 ounces (100 grams) of paint, that is 2 ounces (60 grams) of base coat plus 1 ounce (30 grams) of curing agent – and add about 1 teaspoon (5 grams) of thinners. Record the temperature and humidity. Using the small roller, apply the paint to the glass and immediately tip off with your brush.

If you can still see the brush strokes after three minutes, you need more thinner in the mix. Add a few drops of thinner and do another test with another roller section. If the paint sags or runs, you need less thinners. Mix another batch with less thinner and do another test.

Continued to test until and to get it just right.

You’ll be amazed at the results you can achieve.

check out the Perfection videos

preparation

finish coats

Topsides Painting

While this is a single post, the topsides painting project was spread out over the last six months. Logical project management would put a higher priority on redoing all the systems of the boat first. I chose to focus on the interior and exterior painting projects first for a few reasons. I live on Pomaika’i full time so the mental reinforcement I get from having a boat that is clean and looks good was something I needed to work through this marathon project, I figured the refit would take two years to complete, by myself. The second was that having dirty storage areas grossed me out, and I couldn’t see putting stuff into the various cabinets, the new gloss paints made everything easier to keep clean. The third, and this focuses on the deck painting, was that the previous owners had used a grey non-skid paint that was so hot in the Florida sun it made it painful to walk on the deck, and I am almost always barefoot.

Make sure to check out the before and after photos at the end of this post.

Painting Topsides

I did all the gloss areas with two coats of primer and then white Interlux Brightsides. Doing this during the Florida summers was a challenge. In North Florida summers mean almost daily thunderstorms. As I was working at the time I had to hope for good weather on the weekend, I even took a day off work to grab the weather break.

I broke the boat down into four areas, Stern – Midship – Bow – and Cockpit. Each area would take four days, two weekends, of good weather to get complete. Two days to do sanding of the existing gelcoat (40 grit), masking and painting primer. Then the next weekend I would sand with 120 grit, mask and paint the Brightsides with a sanding between coats using 320 grit. I found that you couldn’t paint too late in the day on the gloss coats because if the humidity were too high overnight, you would lose the shine to the layer so had to start as early as possible, sometimes drying the dew off the deck in the morning. The painting covered all the surface cracks in the 40-year old gel coat and makes it easier to keep the decks clean.

I also replaced the broken white plastic engine room vents with nice new chrome ones. I’m sure to pick up a knot or two in speed just from these chrome pieces.

The majority of the deck area is non-skid, so it only took about a gallon of primer and a gallon of Brightsides.

While doing this part, I also rebuilt the area of the foredeck where the windlass sits.

Kiwi Grip Non-Skid

I chose the Kiwi Grip non-skid system because it stays cool in the sun and gives an aggressive texture which I wanted for stability offshore. Kiwi Grip is more like a rubber covering than paint, which you apply with a plastic scraper. The scraper is grooved to allow you to spread the paint but still leave enough material to build a rough surface. You scoop out enough paint to cover a two-foot by two-foot area. Then you follow this with a special paint roller. This roller builds up the peaks of the surface and completes the distribution of the Kiwi Grip. Doing the non-skid areas was easy, and it cleans up with water. It took four gallons to cover all the non-skid areas of the deck. I did this with white Kiwi Grip which has slightly different color than the Brightsides which gives it a pattern on the deck but still clean looking.

I learned a lesson on patience, again!, while trying to finish the last area on the deck. The day was scheduled for rain but it wasn’t happening. Around two pm I decided to go for it as previously the Kiwi Grip had set up in just a couple of hours. Unfortunately, it never set and when it rained that night I lost most of the gallon I had put on the deck that day (not included in the four gallons above). That was a $150 mistake.

No More Teak

On my previous boat, I had sanded and oiled the teak. During the year I owned that boat I realized that I’d spend most of my life working on wood maintenance. So, with Pomaika’i I decided to replace all the external wood with Plasteak. This is recycled plastic lumber which will need no maintenance or upkeep. I replaced all the hand holds, the rails for the sliding hatch over the aft cabin and the stern rail. The stern rail was a custom piece which they built off of the one part I sent to them.

I like the appearance of the faux teak and love the fact that there is no upkeep. I’ll be replacing the stern swim ladder with one from Plasteak with a small platform.

Painting Sheer Stripe

The sheer stripe is the dark blue – I used Interlux Brightsides in Flag Blue – stripe that runs around the edge of the boat between the toe rail and rub rail. Originally this stripe only covered part of this area, leaving white gel coat showing. I decided to run the sheer stripe all the way between two rails to make it easier to mask. 

As with all painting projects on Pomaika’i I used two coats of primer after sanding the area. I then did two coats of Brightsides (total of 2 quarts). This was a challenge because I had to paint one side and the stern while balancing in my dinghy. As I’m in a marina every time a jetski or boat came by I had to grab on tightly. 

Cockpit Painting

This week I finished up the cockpit which completes all the painting on the decks. Coupled with the helm station fix I did earlier it makes for a nice, clean area to hang out (the main reason I bought the boat).

Related posts

Main salon painting, forward head remodel, v berth painting.

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Painting the topsides

  • Thread starter Tim R.
  • Start date May 10, 2005
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Ask All Sailors

Tim R.

I am a big fan of DIY. I love the satisfaction of doing things myself and if I save a little money along the way then great. I just finished stripping the bottom of my Pearson and applying 4 coats of 2000e and 3 coats of antifouling. My next project is to paint the topsides of a new Rhodes 18 I just bought. After sanding and prepping the surface, what is the best way to get a nice glossy topside? Spraying, roll and tip or some other method? What is the best paint to use? This boat will be moored in fresh water for the summer. Please be as specific as possible with materials and techniques right down to the model of brush. Or, let me know if there are any good books on the subject. If you have BTDT, please provide photos. Thanks Tim R.  

Ed Humphries

Spray It! Spraying is not hard. Practice for pattern and coverage before painting boat! The secret is thin, thin, THIN the paint. I used Brightsides White. Sears portable compressor & spray set. Did I mention thin the paint?  

Better photo? That looks nice but what about the topsides? Tim R.  

Jentine

Rolled Awlgrip Two years ago, I repainted my decks using Awlgrip. I merely rolled it onto the non-skid without tipping. The finished product was very successful. I used 3" wide foam rollers from Home Depot. The entire job, including mixing and clean-up only took a few hours. Jim  

I think he asked about painting topsides? Or did I miss something. Nice deck job Ed.  

Don Casey did an article in GOB Tim, check the Jan/Feb 2002 issue of Good Old Boat. Don Casey did a very good article on painting topsides using Interlux's 2 part paint applied by roll and tip. Kevin  

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

There are lots of BOOKs on the subject nm  

sailaway78

Deck/Topside Paint I read on one of the boards not long ago that Glidden makes a polyurethane paint, made for floors that is every bit as good, and glossy as any of the marine stuff, for about 1/3 or less of the cost. Seems like they had it on the boat for three years at that time. Have not tried it so do not know how good that report was, but should be worth looking into.  

Tom s/v GAIA

Hey come on, now it's the verbiage police? Ed's message got his point across, everyone here got the message, if your so full of yourself that you couldn't understand what he meant maybe the fault is with you, he was trying to help you for Gods sake. Oh, if I've misspelled something, or if my punctuation isn't up to your standards, don't bother to let me know, I really don't give a *#&~ what you think. This is a great site, don't let your ego take the fun out of it. Tom s/v GAIA  

David W

Gee Tom... who is that directed at?  

Hi David. Sorry about that, last week someone used the wrong 'there', and the spelling police went off on the guy, Phil finely called them off, but I think the damage was already done. That guy deserved better then that. Now it's topsides vs deck, tim knew what the guy meant, and Ed was just trying to help. I guess tim felt the need to put someone down. I guess the bottom line is this board is better then that, or it should be. Tom s/v GAIA  

Gee Tom - a hissy fit??? I thought that Tim was very polite. We try to educate as we move along. Tim did not put anyone down. Why go through life calling something by the wrong name? It's a very common mistake by newcomers, and once they know the proper terminology you can bet they remember it. BTW - ur spelng needs a bit of work eh? Cheers,  

Oh, the other educator. Hey jim, you don't like the way I write, don't bother reading it. I get my ideas across, and I don't need to belittle people to do it. This board is about communication, trading ideas, and helping each other out. You think you're smart enough to correct my spelling, you should be smart enough to figure that out. The guy that got hammered by everyone last week won't be back or if he is he'll use another screen name, do you really think that is the way it should be? Think about it. Tom s/v GAIA  

???? I am totaly lost now. My message to Ed about topside was bassically asking to post a photo. It did not occur to me that Ed did not know what the term topsides meant. Thanks to everyone for the info. Let's just end this one right here and go sailing. Tim R.  

Sounds good to me. nm Tom s/v GAIA  

Topsides Tim is very correct in wanting to know more about painting topsides, as opposed to decks. I painted our deck a while back, including the cabin trunk. It was amazing how much more difficult the vertical sides of the cabin trunk were, compared to the flat deck. Runs, sags... all sorts of things that don't happen painting on a horizontal surface. When we painted our topsides a year or two later, we decided to have it done professionally because we didn't want to have to deal with those problems. A nice topsides job CAN be done with a roll & tip application. There are boats in our harbor that have done it themselves, and they look fine. Casey's book is definitely one to have in your library (after you've read it thoroughly). If you are going to put that much work into your boat (or money, if you're having it done professionally) it does not pay to "cheap out" on the paint. I have used Brightsides - a one-part polyurethane all over our tender, our Optimist, and our Blue Jay, essentially because it comes in lots of nice colors and is easy to apply. It's a good thing it's so easy to apply, because it needs repainting ALL THE TIME. Newly painted, they looked great. Then the scratches, dings, chafe and salt get to them. Even a scrub brush bings down the shine when you try to clean the waterline. It simply doesn't hold up well to actual use. If you enjoy repainting every year (isn't that why you DON'T have a wooden boat?) please go right ahead. I even tried it on a section of our cruising boat's deck (since I had some left over from the dinghy) to see how it might last. Less than a week on the foredeck, before scuff marks (from soft-soled boat shoes) scratches (from airborne dirt) and chafe (from anchor lines & sheets) simply made it look terrible. I had to strip it off and start over - with two-part poly. The two-part (Interlhane Plus) has been on for five seasons now, and is starting to need touch-ups where the spinnaker pole downhaul line chafes on the cabin trunk corner. I enjoy doing some painting, but it's not worth saving 20% (?) on the paint if you have to repaint before the season's over.  

Ed Schenck

Here are some articles. Despite the debate there has actually been some useful info on this thread. The Related Link is to some Sailnet articles. Be sure to click on "More...". I have rolled and tipped both Brightside and Toplac. Toplac was much better on the vertical surfaces and seems to hold up better. If I had a painting partner I would always opt for two-part. But it just sets up too fast when you are working alone. If you can spray then 2-part has to be the choice. I have a gun but the quarters are too close in our marina. And I never wanted to build a tent over a 37-foot boat. Maybe Ed will come back with a topsides discussion and photo. I am sure that someone who can do that kind of work knows the difference between a deck and topsides(hull). But it doesn't really matter does it? He loves his sailboat!  

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How to Paint Sailboat Decks

  • By Tom Zydler
  • Updated: March 14, 2013

Painting a sailboat

Janet Van Leuwen and Steve Van Wig own a Whitby 42. Looking at their beautiful, well-groomed ketch, you’d never guess it was built in 1982. The name on the stern, Lunacy , may be the only hint of the incredible amount of work that the couple has put into rejuvenating their boat. Bringing the decks and the coachroof top to their present glory was a large part of the project, as these tasks would’ve been on any glass boat more than 25 years old. This is how they did it. And frankly, this is how it should be done.

Before the couple could begin doing any prep work for painting, the deck hardware had to be removed. They needed access to tight spaces where the horizontal deck surface turned into vertical bulwarks, around the masts’ partners, near the windlass base, and so on. (They also removed the chainplates, which needed attention as a separate project.) Out came all stanchions, their bases, various padeyes, winches—anything and everything, in fact, that could obstruct the power sanders required to remove the worn-down, cracking, original nonskid pattern. Steve then used silicon sealant to plug all the fastener holes that would be reused; silicon repels paint, so the fastener locations would be visible when they began reinstalling the hardware.

Donning breathing masks and kneepads, the couple spent days grinding the old surfaces with 80-grit discs. Using thick foam pads on machines running at high rpm prevented any gouging in the laminate. Smaller sanders (both round and square) helped them to negotiate tight turns; at times, they resorted to manual sanding blocks. Working with thickened polyester and epoxy resins, Steve filled several hairline cracks and dings. They then sanded this filler with 80-grit, then 100-grit, and finally 120-grit sandpaper to achieve a smoother surface before vacuuming up all the accumulated dust.

Next, to keep paint drips off teak handrails, the windlass, and the portholes, they masked these with heavy paper and tape. Right after the final wipe with a cleaning solvent, they took two days to roll and brush on two coats of epoxy primer, the base for the final topcoat. Over the next few days, the primed surfaces were sanded with 120-grit paper, followed again by vacuuming and hosing the resulting dust. Afterward, Janet cleaned all the surfaces with non-sticky tack cloths designed for multipart polyurethanes.

At this juncture, Steve identified and outlined the future nonskid areas, then spent a couple of days taping their inner edges with long-life 3M masking tape. At the corners, joining short lengths of tape on tight curves required meticulous care. After they wiped everything with cleaning solvent, they applied the first coat of multipart polyurethane to all the surfaces outside the future nonskid. Two more topcoat applications followed within allowable, 16-hour intervals. After sanding with 220-grit paper, dusting, using the tack rag, and wiping the solvent, they rolled and brushed on the fourth and final topcoat. The solvent-resistant, ultra-smooth, high-density foam-roller covers and quality brushes delivered the best finish. Working in the hot Florida sun required frequent additions of brushing reducer.

After allowing 48 hours to fully cure, they removed the masking tape. Fresh tape was then applied along the outside margins of the nonskid areas. All was ready for applying the nonskid coats. But first Steve spent a few days experimenting. He mixed his own color tints—too dark, and you couldn’t walk barefoot on the sun-heated deck; too white, and the deck glare was intolerable.

Also, he tested paint combined with various nonskid additives on scrap plywood; very coarse grit could damage human skin if a sailor knelt or fell on deck. He decided to combine equal amounts of coarse and fine grit. Significantly, this mixture prevented the coarse grit from settling down in the paint in lumps. On the big day, Steve and Janet mixed the activator with the paint base in a large container, added the correct nonskid grit, poured in the brushing reducer, and thoroughly stirred it all. After pouring small dollops within a taped area, Steve spread it out with a roller with Janet assisting, adding more paint or grit as necessary. She also wiped up Steve’s occasional paint drips with a solvent-soaked rag. The work went quickly and smoothly, though constant stirring of the paint/grit mixture was absolutely vital.

Twenty-four hours passed before heavy, late summer rain rolled in. By then, the paint had cured hard, and the coachroof was finished. They then repeated the whole operation to paint the deck. Nobody said rejuvenating a classic-plastic yacht would be quick or easy. But when the entire project was finished and Lunacy ‘s deck sparkled, the two sailors realized that all their meticulous efforts had been well worth it.

Steps:** 1. In preparation for the job, much of the deck hardware, including the stanchions, had to be removed. The remaining gear was carefully and completely covered and masked. 2. All the fastener holes were filled with silicon sealant, and the couple spent days grinding the old surfaces. Then Janet used a solvent wash to ensure a strong bond with the primer paint. 3. After dings and cracks were repaired and sanded, two coats of epoxy primer were applied. 4. Following another round of sanding, vacuuming, cleaning, and taping, the couple rolled and brushed on a fresh coat of Awlgrip topcoat. 5. After four coats of Awlgrip, it was time for the nonskid. First, Steve experimented with colors and grits. Once under way, he poured on a dollop of pre-mixed paint and spread it evenly. Note the paint stirrer, which was used to prevent the grit from settling. 6. Stirring frequently, to make sure the coverage was even in each masked area, Steve worked quickly and efficiently while Janet addressed small splashes with a solvent-soaked cloth. 7. Voilà! Once the masking tape was removed, the fresh decks fairly glistened.

What You’ll Need: • Hook-and-loop sanding discs, sized to fit the sander pads • Sheets of sandpaper of grits 80, 100, 120, 180, 220, and 320 • 3M masking tape in widths of 1/2 inch (No. 256), 1 inch (No. 2090), and 2 inches (No. 225) • Gerson synthetic tack cloths • Roller frames and roller covers, with phenolic cores: ultra-smooth, high-density 4-inch and 6-inch roller covers (available from Home Depot; for the primers and topcoats) and Yellow stripe 3/8-inch nap (from West Marine; for the nonskid paint mixture) • Good-quality varnishing brushes • Cabisil (colloidal silica) thickening agent for making fairing putty with epoxy or polyester resin • Plastic putty knives • Interlux Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202 (for cleaning surfaces) • M.E.K. solvent (for cleaning all brushes) • Disposable paper/plastic pails of various sizes • A dozen wooden paint stirrers • Interlux Epoxy Primekote • Awlgrip topcoat (with Brushing Reducer and brushing converter) • Awlgrip Griptex nonskid additive (fine and coarse grades) • Ryobi and Makita random orbital sanders • Ryobi 6-inch palm polisher (used with a foam pad as a sander in complex spaces) • 3M breathing dust masks, ear protection, and solvent-resistant gloves

Longtime CW contributor Tom Zydler and his wife, Nancy, plan on spending this summer exploring the coast of Labrador aboard their Mason 44, Frances B .

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painting sailboat topsides

Our topside-paint test panels have endured three full years of 24/7 exposure to the elements, and the time has come for their final evaluation. Testers have annually scrutinized the paint swatches and rated the topside coatings on gloss retention, flow out, scratch resistance, and anti-oxidation ability. In this final round of evaluating, we will also compare the panel results with the products real-world performances aboard our test boats.

Our goal from the start of this test was to take a variety of promising topside coatings and apply them to boats in our test fleet-sailboats, dinghies, and other craft-and set up an in-situ test to validate or contradict our panel testing. These field tests have put paint systems through more realistic punishment in a true working environment. And the comparison between real world usage and static testing helped us validate both a wide range of the paints tested and the testing protocol itself. (See Field Test Findings” on right)

Testers reported on the application of these paints in the August 2008 issue and rated their performance in the November 2009 and February 2011 issues. Now, at the three-year mark, testers can offer some interesting observations about specific paints and paint types.

How We Tested

For the long-term evaluations panel test, we applied two coats of each paint to carefully prepped sections of fiberglass panels. The panels endured identical weathering, and the swatches were washed with a mild soap before inspection. All ratings are relative to the field.

Gloss-retention testing included taking reflected light readings, in bright daylight, with a spot meter and reflected light meter; results were averaged. To test for oxidation buildup, testers placed a new cotton/polyester piece of cloth on a rotary disk and moved it slowly over each coating surface for 20 seconds, then noted any residue on the cloth.

To determine the hardness of each coating, testers used Gradcos pencil hardness test method: A roller device holding a pencil at a given angle was pushed across the surface of the coating; by using pencil leads of varying hardness, the coating was eventually scratched, and testers noted the hardness of lead required. We rated each performance on a 1-5 scale with 5 being the hardest. Tests were repeated five times.

To test for adhesion, testers used a scalpel to cut crosshatches through small sections of paint, then placed a piece of masking tape over the crosshatched surface, rubbed it and pulled it off. Paint pulling away from the surface detracted from the rating. All of the paints passed the adhesion test.

For the one-year report (PS, November 2009 ), testers evaluated abrasion resistance using a Scotchbrite scuff pad and 3 pounds of pressure; this test was conducted only on white paints. They used drops of dark tea (mimicking tannic acid, the culprit behind most waterline stains) to evaluate stain resistance.

Test Panel Findings

All of the topside paints that weve been monitoring fall into four categories: conventional enamel, modified enamels, two-part coatings, and water-based paints for marine use. Our tests found that when it comes to ease of application, the one-part products stole the show. But the highest marks for gloss, hardness, and durability went to the two-part polyurethane coatings.

Our intentional use of the term coating stems from the way these long-chain, polymer-linking paints behave. In essence, they are more of a catalyzed resin than conventional enamel. The latter loses solvent through evaporation during its curing process, while the former goes through a molecular crosslinking process that leads to both extra hardness and a wet-looking, high gloss. One thing we did notice in this field of super performers was that they come with some tradeoffs.

For example, industry leader Awlgrip (an Azko Nobel company) is the manufacturer of coating systems marketed for professional use only. Because their two lines of paints are available to the general public at West Marine and other retail chandleries, we included them in the test. These are not DIY coatings for the inexperienced, but the skilled and practiced DIYer-those already familiar with fiberglass repairs, applying epoxy primers, and fairing a surface, and who know what sanding to perfection really means-may be ready to handle professional-grade products like Awlgrip.

To determine coating hardness

The top-rated Awlgrip behaves much like the other two-part products in our paint reviews, and it delivers the very best results. The companys top-coat bifurcation gives users two different products and approaches to two-part painting, and its worth a closer look. The makers traditional two-part, high-solids, polyester-based linear polyurethane (LPU) coating is named Awlgrip and its acrylic, modified two-part polyurethane topcoat is Awlcraft. The latter is easier to handle and allows a user to fix flaws in the finish or spot repair damage that occurs at a later date. Sags, hangs, or a fly doing the backstroke just after the final coat is applied don’t result in as critical a failure as they do with Awlgrip. With Awlcraft, wet-sanding and touching up is not as much of a Michelangelo-level skill as it is with Awlgrip because Awlcraft is a bit softer and can be rubbed out and polished back to maximum gloss in the same manner automotive paints are handled. However, as with all softer acrylic-based LPUs, theres a drop in abrasion resistance when compared with polyester-based LPU paints like Awlgrip.

Between top-rated, top-priced Awlgrip and much softer, brush-friendly one-part enamels resides an interesting array of chemical innovation. Traditional enamels like those made by Z-Spar, Kirbys, and Sherwin-Williams delivered good initial gloss but most deteriorated over the three-year test run. The good news is that none suffered adhesion loss or excessive oxidation, and an open can of alkyd enamel doesn’t have the harsh chemical odor that two-parts have.

Interlux and Epifanes urethane modified enamels outpaced old-style paints and nudged ahead of Pettits EasyPoxy. West Marines Sea Gloss Pro also delivered great results. CrystaLacs Crabcoat was the only water-based product in our test, and from the start, gloss was not its strong suit. But Crabcoat does offer good adhesion, durability, and an attractive semi-gloss, and for those working inside or in tight confines, theres the bonus of a low VOC level. However, when it comes to comparing one- and two-part paints, its important to note that theres a significant performance gap between them.

After three years of testing, its become clear that two-part paints are in a league all their own. All two-part coatings we evaluated had more shine and better adhesion at the three-year point than any of the single-can options. That said, there was a grouping of top single-part urethane modified enamels that surprised us with their durability and, to a lesser extent, their shine.

Interluxs Brightside and Epifanes Mono-urethane are case in point, and in our third-year panel evaluation, they earned high marks as all-around paints when it came to ease of application and durability. Perhaps the best test of their tenacity was how well they held up on the cockpit sole of Technical Editor Ralph Naranjos Ericson 41. (See Field Test Results on right) These paints have endured 3 years of sailing travails plus the onslaught of icy winters and boiling hot summers. The gloss has diminished some, but their adhesive quality as nonskid paints and waterway topcoats has been impressive.

When all was said and done, theres no question that the professional approach to a two-part paint makeover yields the best-looking results. However, there are a few shortcuts that do work and a few that should be avoided. One-part urethane modified enamels like Brightside, Epifanes Mono-urethane, and Pettits Easypoxy deliver handling convenience and a surprisingly long-lasting finish. Boat owners who have mastered the handling challenges of a two-part LPU sprayed finish can get close to the like new look of a professional paint job. But keep in mind that these coatings contain aggressive solvents and other unfriendly chemicals. Covering up and wearing an appropriate respirator and eye protection are part of the process.

We were glad to see that results from our three-year panel testing showed a strong correlation to our field test findings. The winners in both test groups paralleled paints highlighted in previous years. One of the biggest surprises, however, was that traditional enamels held their own, retaining good adhesion, despite losses in gloss retention. On the panels, all of the paint products remained well adhered, but a few failures in the field could be linked to shortcuts in preparation. We demonstrated that those looking to lessen the chances of ending up with flaking and peeling paint should consider using an epoxy primer and above all, follow manufacturer surface prep guidelines as closely as possible.

Topside-Paint Endurance Test 3-Year Checkup

  • George Kirby Jr. Paint CO.
  • Sherwin-Williams
  • Signature Finishes
  • West Marine

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

This weekend I saw my first example of a “vinyl wrap” as a topside application, on a 50’ Fontaine Pajot (sp?) catamaran. Almost overnight the boat Was transformed from an ordinary, dated, white hulled cat, to a like-new boat in a striking gray finish. How does this system compare to other topside finishes like traditional gel coat and two part finishes?

Hello D.N.; thanks for the update on the topside paints but one question. I used EZpoxy polyurethane on my 1967 Morgan 24 this year and noted they offer the Performance Enhancer to increase hardness and durability. I used it as they advised and am happy with it thus far. The results are noticeably harder and cure faster and (for those who desire it) there is a higher gloss… Why have i heard nothing about the combination in various reviews including yours? It is an easy to work and forgiving topcoat…why no notice?

i am wondering about using an oil based exterior finish that is NOT a marine product… obviously these are much cheaper… any testing on this?

I have restored, modified, and repainted a few boats in my amature days. Full disclosure I am a former marine mechanic and have taught technologies for 20 years. Brightsides has been an overall disappointment to me. In 4 attempts at repainting my Bluenose 24, (my brother in law is a rough landing skipper) I only had the gloss come up once. The other three times the paint kicked too early or just cured dull. In putting an epoxy bottom coat on my Shark 24, with Pettit epoxy, that claims to cure even down to 5 celsius, the paint started kicking on the roller leaving a bumpy mess like a teen’s complexion. Pettit replaced the product and after exhaustive grinding off the previous mess, it happened again. Pettit is off my list forever. Epifanes has been my go to choice for my trawler yacht, a Mainship Mk1. It has been the best experience of them all. Using a roll and tip method, the brush strokes did not level out leaving noticeable lines up close. I contacted Epifanes Canada and they now recommend just rolling, and they are right. Just roll it on and it’s great. Yes the mono urethanes are softer, but they are so much more user friendly when rolling on. A factor when some drydock locations would not allow spraying without building a full enclosure. After my first season, a green dockhand caused a minor scratch with improper line handling. I called Epifanes and they advised just tape of a trapezoid shape around the scratch and repaint it. You will have to get real close to see the tape line. BAM! it worked just like they said. I now do not fear docking scratches as I know I can successfully with little fuss repair them during drydock times, or even afloat if need be. I have no investment in any of these products. I am Epifanes sold. Awlgrip is too fussy for a DIY boatyard job. Unless you want to fork out big bucks, accept the 4 foot test. If it looks great 4 feet away, be happy.

Total Boat on deck. A forty years old non skid started to erode. Sanding was almost impossible: it grinned all sand paper and the majority of wheels. I decided to deal extensively and degrease. And coat of Total primer ( same color as the original ) was applied. A second coat after two days did not offer nay adhesion advantage, using the metal comb scratch and peel testing method. It was followed by one coat of Total Boat Wet Edge (white) mixed with 33% Total Boat Non Skid ( Light grey to match the primer ). I added 50% of Interlux flattening agent. The result is very satisfying. I liked the non-skid : its material does not settle as much as other manufacturers like Petit. This system will be easy to maintain if necessary. It took 5 hours per coat on a 36ft deck, trapping included. The temperature was above 65F. and the humidity was low. There was high wind that accelerated the drying process. I’d be interested to read Practical Sailor writing on Total Boat products. This system was tested against test panels of Petit and Interlux. I did not see any major difference in adhesion nor ease of application.

Before tackling ANY large painting project, paint a few 1-to 2-foot panels, playing with rolling, tipping, and specifically, the working temperature and amount of thinner.

Never push the low temperatures or high humidity. Follow the instructions or the odds will incline against you. I avoid paint projects both spring and fall in cold climates–the weather is just not dependable enough. Instead, I target that part of the summer when the wind stinks anyway and sail in the off-season.

I’ve always been able to get the finish I wanted. I pick the weather, dial in the thinner, buy the best rollers and brushes, and prep ahead of time so that I can easily finish in one push.

As for non-marine finishes, Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel is dependable for little projects like brackets and backing plates. I always keep a can of white handy–exact color matching is not vital on small things. It takes fewer coats than yacht finishes and seem to hold up about as well. Every hardware store has it.

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THE 10 BEST Moscow Boat Rides & Cruises

Boat rides & cruises in moscow.

  • Boat Rentals
  • Scuba & Snorkeling
  • Fishing Charters & Tours
  • Water Sports
  • Stand-Up Paddleboarding
  • Surfing, Windsurfing & Kitesurfing
  • Kayaking & Canoeing
  • Waterskiing & Jetskiing
  • Parasailing & Paragliding
  • River Rafting & Tubing
  • Dolphin & Whale Watching
  • Speed Boats Tours
  • Submarine Tours
  • 3rd Transport Ring (TTK)
  • District Central (TsAO)
  • Garden Ring
  • District Northern (SAO)
  • Good for Couples
  • Good for Big Groups
  • Budget-friendly
  • Good for a Rainy Day
  • Good for Kids
  • Honeymoon spot
  • Hidden Gems
  • Good for Adrenaline Seekers
  • Adventurous
  • Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

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1. Flotilla Radisson Royal

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2. Moscow River Boat Tours

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3. Sup-Club

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4. Akvanavt Diving Centre

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5. Diving Center Crocus City Oceanarium

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6. CheapRussia Tours

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7. Kite School Kiteclass

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8. SUP Center

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9. Erwin. Reka

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10. Easy Russia Tour Guide

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11. Lovely Russia Tours

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13. Capital River Boat Tours - Moscow Centre

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14. Alfa Centr

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15. Diving Club Divers

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16. Sup Outdoor

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17. MORE MOSCOW

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19. Soho Sailing Style

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20. Dive-Project

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21. Diving Center Crocodile

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22. Mosparokhodstvo

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24. Kosinskiy Children Marine Club

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25. Kayak Moscow

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26. DIVECLUB CHE

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27. Moswake

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28. FLOW Moscow

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29. Morskiye Volki

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30. S-cruises

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Moscow Boat Tour

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Description

See all the gems of historical and cultural center of the capital in short time and without traffic jams or tiresome walking.

Depending on the itinerary and duration of the Moscow River boat trip, the tour can be 3 or 5 hours.

Highlights of the tour

  • St Basil’s Cathedral;
  • Stalin skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya (Tinkers) embankment;
  • The Kremlin;
  • “House on the Embankment” Stalin skyscraper;
  • Monument to Peter I;
  • The Central House of Artists;
  • Christ the Savior Cathedral;
  • Gorky Park;
  • Moscow State University;
  • Russian Academy of Sciences;
  • Luzhniki stadium;
  • Novodevichy Monastery;
  • Kiev railway station;
  • Europe Square;
  • Moscow City Hall;
  • Government House;
  • Expocentre Exhibition Complex;
  • and other famous sights.

You will learn about the different epochs of the city from the foundation in 1147 till Soviet times of 20 th  century.

Moscow River

Moskva river has the form of a snake and is the main waterway of Moscow, consisting of a cascade of reservoirs. Within the city, Moskva river is 80 km long, 120 m - 200 m wide and up to 14 m deep. The narrowest part of the river is the Kremlin area in the city center, and the most extensive is around the Luzhniki Stadium in the south. 

Bridges in Moscow

Undoubtedly, bridges and embankments are among the most scenic spots and main attractions of Moscow. Plus, they are so romantic.

  • Bolshoy Kamenny Bridge –  Great Stone Bridge –  is the main bridge of Moscow . The first stone bridge was constructed here in the 17th century.
  • Patriarshy Bridge  is one of the youngest pedestrian bridges, built in 2004. The bridge connects the iconic Christ the Saviour Cathedral with funky Bersenevskaya embankment, extremely popular place among locals for its trendy art galleries, cafes and panoramic views. Patriarshy Bridge used to be a shooting location for ex-Russian President Dmitry Medvedev's New Year speech to the nation.
  • Borodinsky Bridge,  erected in honor of the 100th anniversary of the glorious victory in the Battle of Borodino (which every Russian kid knows about), a fierce legendary battle during the Russo-French war of 1812.
  • Bagration Bridge  one of the  pedestrian bridges with most picturesque views of the Moskva River with its numerous upper-level observation platforms. The bridge was erected to celebrate the 850th anniversary of Moscow city in 1997.
  • Krymsky Bridge  used to be in Top 5 Europe’s longest bridges some 100 years ago. The bridge got its name after the ancient Krymsky ford which Crimean Tartars used to invade Moscow in the 16 th  century.

Embankments of Moscow

Moscow river boats 37 embankments, the most popular being Kremlevskaya, Sofiyskaya, Pushkinskaya, Vorobyovskaya and Kolomenskaya.

You can get the most spectacular views of the Kremlin from  Kremlevskaya and Sofiyskaya embankments.

  • Pushkinkaya embankment  is the most romantic in Moscow. It meanders along Gorky Park and Neskuchnyi garden and is rich for all kinds of entertainment as well as cozy nooks, including Olivkovy beach, the famous Zeleny theater as well as a pier for river cruisers.
  • Vorobyevskaya embankment  is part of Sparrow Hills nature reserve. This place opens a beautiful panorama of the river and city from the observation deck and is considered to be the place for taking serious decisions in life.
  • Embankment in Kolomenskoye  Museum-Reserve has a special charm due to its peculiar geographical relief. The boat trip around Kolomenskoye would be the most peaceful in your life.
  • Taras Shevchenko embankment  is popular among photographers for its modern Moscow City skyscrapers. Highly recommended for your night boat trip.
  • Embankments of Moscow are the pride of the capital. A distinctive feature of each of the promenades is its architecture and beautiful views. In addition, almost all the embankments of Moscow have a rich history and a lot of notable buildings.

Different epochs

Taking a walk along the Moskva River by boat, you will witness the architecture of Moscow from different eras and styles. Archaeological studies indicate that already in the XI century there stood a fortified settlement on Borovitsky hill, which is now called the Kremlin. Little fortress could not accommodate all the residents of the rapidly growing city, and the Grand Duke ordered the construction of a new Kremlin, larger than the former.

Boat trip around Kolomenskoe Park

Moscow river boat trip starts from the pier Klenovy (Maple) Boulevard and provides reat views of Nicholas Perervinsky monastery.

Nicholas Perervinsky monastery was founded at the time of the Battle of Kulikov (1380). The monastery, got its name from the surrounding area – “Pererva”, which can be translated like “tear off” and because of the location –  here it abruptly changed its course, turning to Kolomna, standing on the opposite bank.

Nowadays Kolomenskoye is State Art, Historical, Architectural and Natural Landscape Museum-Reserve, which doors are open to everyone who wants to get in touch with the ancient history of Russia.

Take a break from the big city hustle in the shady parks and gardens of the Kolomenskoe Museum-Reserve. Don’t miss a wonderful Church of the Ascension and Tsar Alexey’s Palace in Kolomenskoye!

Monasteries and temples

  • Novospassky Monastery
  • Founded in the 13th century on the site where now is located the Danilovsky monastery. After a few decades, in 1330, Ivan Kalita moved the monastery onto the Borovitskii hill of the Kremlin. However, in the 15th century, Spassky Monastery again moved, this time to a more spacious place on Krasnoholmskaya waterfront.
  • Church of St. Nicholas in Zayaitskom
  • Erected in the middle of the XVIII century in baroque style. The building survived after the 1812 fire, but the utensils were destoyed. Parishioners collected donations and restored the temple on their own. In Soviet times, it was closed and re-opened only in 1992.
  • Cathedral of Christ the Savior
  • The church was originally erected in honor of the victory over Napoleon and was being under construction for long 44 years. Notoriously demolished in 1937 to be a giant swimming pool under open sky. The current building was constructed in 1990s. It is the tallest and one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world.
  • The temple was built in 1679-82, during the reign of Tsar Fedor Alekseevich, in late Muscovite Baroque style and can be characterized as bonfire temple. Each gable is a symbol of a heavenly fire.
  • Novodevichy Convent
  • The most famous concent and monastery in Moscow, presumably founded in 1524. Novodevichy’s status has always been high among other monasteries, it was in this monastery where the women of the royal blood, the wives of Tsars and local rulers of Moscow were kept in prison as nuns.
  • St. Andrew’s church  (male acts as Compound Patriarch of Moscow)
  • St. Andrew’s church stands right on the slopes of the Sparrow Hills, on the way down to the Moskva River, on the territory of the Nature Reserve “Sparrow Hills”. The monastery is small in size but is very cozy. It’s situated in a quiet courtyard surrounded by temples, fruit trees and flowers.

What you get:

  • + A friend in Moscow.
  • + Private & customized Moscow river cruise.
  • + An exciting pastime, not just boring history lessons.
  • + An authentic experience of local life.
  • + Flexibility: changes can be made at any time to suit individual preferences.
  • + Amazing deals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the very best cafes & restaurants. Discounts on weekdays (Mon-Fri).
  • + A photo session amongst spectacular Moscow scenery that can be treasured for a lifetime.
  • + Good value for souvenirs, taxis, and hotels.
  • + Expert advice on what to do, where to go, and how to make the most of your time in Moscow.

Write your review

  • ALL MOSCOW TOURS
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  • Moscow Maps & Traffic
  • Facts about Moscow – City Factsheet
  • Expat Communities
  • Groceries in Moscow
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  • Blogs about Moscow
  • Flat Rentals

painting sailboat topsides

Art in Moscow: Museums, Galleries and Museum-Reserves

There is no strict dress code in Moscow museums. However, if you are going to explore ancient churches and holy places we recommend more conservative outwear. Women should have their heads covered.

All state museums and galleries are free every third Sunday of the month. Some of the Moscow museums are free on holidays, and during the «Museum days» and «Museum Night».

If you’re looking for great cultural tours around art points of Moscow, we have a great MOSCOW ART & DESIGN TOUR , available for you everyday except Mondays.

Moscow Museums

The Moscow Kremlin

The Moscow Kremlin

Don’t miss a chance to see the very heart of Moscow, the Kremlin, the symbol of the Russian State, one of the greatest architectural ensembles in the world, a treasury of unusual relics and monuments of art. It is situated on a high Borovitskiy hill above the Moskva River, so you’ll be able to see a spectacular view of the city center. The famous Armory Chamber and the Diamond Fund are real treasure-houses, where you can see ancient Russian regalia, ceremonial tsar’s dress, church hierarchs’ vestments, arms, gold and silverware by Russian, European and Eastern masters. The Kremlin is the official President’s residence and remains a gorgeous political landmark. The UNESCO has included the ensemble of the Moscow Kremlin in the World Heritage List.

Site: http://www.kreml.ru/

The State Historical Museum

painting sailboat topsides

Ivan Zabelin, Aleksey Uvarov, and several other Slavophiles founded the State Historical Museum in 1872 to promote Russian history and national self-awareness. During its century-long history, the museum has collected more than 4.5 million of valuable items and over 12 million pages of documental archives. Its exhibitions range from relics of prehistoric tribes that lived in the territory of present-day Russia, through priceless artworks acquired by members of the Romanov dynasty. The museum’s historical building which was reconstructed and equipped to meet all the visitors requirements is on the Red Square.

Site: http://www.shm.ru/

The State Tretyakov Gallery

The State Tretyakov Gallery

The State Tretyakov Gallery takes a special place among the national art museums of the world. Established with the efforts of one person, the dedicated collector Pavel Tretyakov, it possesses a unique collection of Russian art, more than 150000 masterpieces, created by famous Russian artists throughout the centuries. The historic building of the State Tretyakov Gallery at Lavrushinski Lane presents Russian art from the 11th through the early 20th century. The state Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val has an excellent collection of Russian art of the 20th century, modern art and holds temporary exhibitions.

Site: http://www.tretyakovgallery.ru/

The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts

painting sailboat topsides

The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts is one the largest European museums of fine art. It has one of the most remarkable collections of fine arts in Russia that consists of artworks from ancient times to the present day. Visitors can see great paintings by world famous artists: Rembrandt, Botticelli, Canaletto, Tiepolo, along with the remarkable collections of Impressionists, Post-impressionists, modernists: Monet, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Picasso and others. Moreover, the museum holds the private collectors’ galleries, many of were inaccessible to public for many years.

Site: http://www.arts-museum.ru/

Moscow Museum of Modern Art

Moscow Museum of Modern Art

Moscow Museum of Modern Art specializes in the modern art of 20th and 21st centuries. The famous Russian artist and sculptor Zurab Tsereteli has founded it. The museum is located in four historic buildings in Petrovka Street, Gogolevsky Boulevard, Ermolaevsky lane and Tverskoy Boulevard. The museum’s collection depicts the development of avant-garde. The largest part of the collection consists of masterpieces of Russian artists, but you can also find works by Anri Russo, Joan Miro, Pablo Picasso and many others.

Site: http://www.mmoma.ru/

The Moscow Planetarium

The Moscow Planetarium

The Planetarium in Moscow first opened its doors in 1929. After a global reconstruction, it was reopened in 2011. Now it is a multifunctional complex that combines scientific and educational resources: the interactive museum «Lunarium», the Museum of Urania, the Big Star Hall and the Sky Park, family recreation center, that focuses on different age groups. The Moscow Planetarium is one of the biggest planetariums in the world.

Site: http://www.planetarium-moscow.ru/

Moscow Galleries

Garage museum of contemporary art.

Inside Garage Museum of Contemporary Art Hall

Exhibit on display during the opening of «Art Experiment»

The museum is a kind of independent platform aimed to disclose and reveal a new way of thinking. The Garage Center currently reflects the contemporary innovations of national and world’s culture. It invites you to the beautiful world of modern art, showing its best pieces. This center offers a great number of various exhibitions, educational projects for kids and adults, and publishing. The Garage Center is also called The Museum of Everything. It provides ways and reasons for public dialogue and the creation of progressive ideas.

Site: http://garageccc.com/

The Multimedia Art Museum

Fifty Years of Bond Style Exhibition

Fifty Years of Bond Style Exhibition

The Multimedia Art Museum opened in October 2010 at the base of the Moscow House of Photography. One of the main principles of MAMM s work is complete openness to the new forms of visual expression and for the fresh, innovative trends in the Russian and foreign media art and photography. There are seven floors of spacious exhibition halls and minimalist architecture that is a great font for modern art. The exhibition history of MAMM and Moscow House of Photography counts more than 1300 exhibitions in Russia and abroad. Moreover, Multimedia Art Museum has different educational programs and holds famous Moscow art festivals: Photobiennale, «Fashion and Style in Photography» and others.

Site: http://www.mamm-mdf.ru/

Lumiere Brothers Photography Center

Lumiere Brothers Photography Center

This modern photo gallery is located in the very heart of Moscow, next to the Kremlin, Cathedral of Christ the Savior, big art galleries, design studios famous clubs and restaurants. The photography Center houses in an old and huge mansion at the Moskva River Embankment. Lumiere Brothers Photography Center has three huge exhibition rooms, lecture hall, library with an immense collection of rare books in photography and an independent bookshop. The Center is conducting research work, organizing educational projects, providing a base for the future Russian Museum of Photography.

Site: http://www.lumiere.ru/

Winzavod

Winzavod (Wine Factory) is the first and the biggest Center of Contemporary Art in our country. It unites all the areas of modern culture: exhibitions, festivals, lecture programs, cinema, concerts, theater premieres. You will find here a big amount of art galleries, artists’ workshops, designers and photographers studios, art cafes, fashion showrooms, a bookshop, children’s studio and many other things. The purpose of Winzavod is to support and to develop Russian contemporary art, art initiatives and help talented young people. Visiting Winzavod you will see the art that defines not only today’s but also tomorrow’s life.

Site: http://www.winzavod.ru/

painting sailboat topsides

The Manezh was built in 1817 in honor of the 5th anniversary of Russia’s victory in the 1812 war. Then it was called «Exerzierhaus», building, intended for military drills. The building has the unique construction – wooden structure trusses overlap the space of 44.86 square meters without any intermediate supports. After 1917, Manezh served as a garage for government vehicles. And since 1957 it has been continuously used for exhibitions and public events. In 2004, the building was severely damaged by fire. Renovated in 2005 the Manezh doubled its area. Nowadays it is one of the leading Moscow exhibition halls. There are two exhibition spaces, a conference room and a cafe on the third-floor observation deck. The Manezh hosts numerous fairs, festivals, and exhibitions.

Site: http://moscowmanege.ru/

Flacon Design Factory

Flacon Design Factory

Flacon Design Factory, located in the territory of a former glass factory, has become a pioneer in the revitalization of industrial zone outside the historic center of Moscow. Flacon has become a powerful launch pad for multiple cool projects, self-expression of creative individuals and carrying-out of sociocultural initiatives. No wonder that the atmosphere at Flacon entirely coincides with its motto: «Create as you please!» The Factory includes offices, co-working zone, shops, workshops, exhibition and creative projects spaces. Lectures, film screenings, fairs, design festivals, innovative exhibitions, presentations, concerts, limited actions and design community work days pass here weekly.

Site: http://flacon.ru/

Artplay

Artplay is near Winzavod in the former industrial space in the area Kurskaya metro station and occupies an area of 75,000 square meters. Artplay, providing a new life to carefully reconstructed factory buildings, has become an important part of the contemporary cultural landscape of the city. Artplay unites designers, architects, furniture, lighting, ceramics, decorative materials shops, involving them in cooperation with each other. Young Moscow galleries, artists’ studios, cafes, bars, bookstores, music club, school of design, theater, children’s art studio are also situated here. Three exhibition halls regularly host contemporary art exhibitions, festivals, video art, alternative music concerts, performances, film screenings, lectures and master classes.

Site: http://www.artplay.ru/

CCI Fabrika

CCI Fabrika

The Center For Creative Industries «Fabrika» is an art space for non-commercial creative projects. Today it is the example of peaceful coexistence of art business, operating enterprise, production, and workplaces for talented people in Moscow. CCI Fabrika is a member of the international network of non-profit cultural centers – Trans Europe Halls. This project is a typical umbrella-center. It is developing in both ways: creating and exhibiting its cultural projects and offering workspaces for other creative groups. Here you can find art studios and workshops of design, architecture, cinema, theater, cartoon animation and contemporary music studios.

Site: http://www.proektfabrika.ru/

Moscow Museum-Reserves

Tsaritsyno State Museum-Reserve

Tsaritsyno State Museum-Reserve

Tsaritsyno State Museum-Reserve is one of the largest historical, cultural, recreation and touristic complexes. Its total area is more than 700 hectares. It is an excellent combination of nature – marvelous rivers, ponds, streams, forests – and scientifically restored and renovated architectural and landscape monuments. The museum’s collection of historical items, exhibitions, and educational programs will be attractive for both national visitors and foreign tourists.

Site: http://www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru/

Arkhangelskoye Country Estate

Arkhangelskoe Estate

Russian cultural monument is a good sublimation of the stunning beauty of a green space and luxurious collection of paintings, sculptures, unique books and pieces arts and crafts. During its long history, the estate was used as a recreation place for emperors, politicians, famous writers and poets. Today it is the finest place to have an enjoyable walk and to see the richest collection Russian art.

Site: http://www.arhangelskoe.su/

Kolomenskoe Museum-Reserve

Kolomenskoe Museum-Reserve

A unique historic place – Kolomenskoe – is situated in the picturesque surrounding over the Moscow River banks. A magnificent country estate has appeared at the lands full of legends. Archeological discoveries state that the first settlements appeared here in the VIII century. It is an ancient and uniquely formed place. Today this is a unique complex of cultural monuments of high historical value.

Site: http://mgomz.ru/kolomenskoe

Sergiev-Posad City

Sergiev Posad

Sergiev Posad Museum-Reserve

Museum of Sergiev-Posad is a historical and art reserve. It is located within the unique wall of the St. Sergius Trinity Lavra. This ancient monastery gathered its treasures during centuries from the tsars, princes and boyars donations. Moreover, many art and craft items were made at Lavra’s workshops. Now, the collections of Sergiev-Posad Museum-Reserve include rare, ancient icons, Cyrillic alphabet books, medieval manuscripts, visual art items, gold and silver showpieces.

Site: http://www.stsl.ru/

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painting sailboat topsides

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painting sailboat topsides

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IMAGES

  1. Ep10: FINALLY painting the sailboat! Topside, hull and bottom paint

    painting sailboat topsides

  2. Sailboat refit Ep12 Fairing & Painting the topsides with AlexSeal

    painting sailboat topsides

  3. Topside Painting

    painting sailboat topsides

  4. polyurethane topsides paint on a wooden boat saved for color scheme

    painting sailboat topsides

  5. How To Paint a Boat

    painting sailboat topsides

  6. Topsides Painting

    painting sailboat topsides

VIDEO

  1. 2 Minutes Art / Sailboat / Acrylic Abstract Painting Demo / Relaxing

  2. How to paint boat

  3. Sailboat painting acrylic miniature seascape art

  4. Sailboat painting tutorial #sailboat #acrylicpainting

  5. Sailboat watercolor painting

  6. Sailboat Refit: First Paint Job & Exciting News!! [E57]

COMMENTS

  1. DIY Topside Painting Guide

    Interlux's Boat Paint Guide and Color Chart (Model 5422381) and Pettit's Boat Painting Guide (Model 10484244) are two examples, available for free download below. Also, several of our major paint suppliers list toll-free phone numbers that you can call during business hours for help. Finally, of course, our West Marine Product Advisors are ...

  2. How to easily roll and tip topside paint on your boat

    1.6K Share 329K views 9 years ago Varnishing, Striping and Painting your wooden boat Shipwright Louis Sauzedde shows us his tips and tricks for rolling and tipping topside paint. Visit...

  3. Topside Paint Test Kicks Off with a Look at ...

    288 We applied 29 topside paints from nine manufacturers to fiberglass panels. With such a large test field, we opted to divide the products by paint type. Of the test paints, seven are alkyd enamels; 12 are one-part urethanes; and eight are two-part linear polyurethane. We've classified two as "other" as they fit into none of the categories.

  4. How to Repaint Your Topsides

    Sanding the hull on a J22 sailboat took nearly three weeks to get rid of the old paint, fix the dings and dents, sand the hull again with a longboard, apply an undercoat, sand it lightly, then apply a topcoat. The topsides have been sanded and the hull is masked off ready for spraying Masking Off

  5. Topside Painting

    Supplies for Rolling & Tipping Spray Equipment Basics Surface Prep for Topside Painting Best Conditions for Topside Painting Easy Techniques and Expert Tips for Topside Painting Thinning Topside Paint for Rolling & Tipping Rolling & Tipping Topside Paint Like a Pro Thinning and Spraying Topside Paint Choosing a Topside Paint Types of Topside Paints

  6. Painting your Topsides

    Painting Topsides Momo resplendent: Only yellow would be too yellow, ... when we updated the traditional navy-blue hull and its gold trim—it was an Annapolis boat, after all—with bright-green topsides and yellow and red wood trim both inside and out. Years later, when it was time to do something about the peeling varnish on Momo's hatches ...

  7. Painting Sailboats

    How to paint your sailboat topsides with two-part polyurethane why use two-part polyurethane? If you decide to tackle painting your topsides, you're starting a fairly big job no

  8. How to Paint a Boat, Part 1

    How to Paint a Boat, Part 1 - Getting the Right Topside Paint OffCenterHarbor 24.2K subscribers Subscribe Subscribed 304 25K views 1 year ago How-To Instructional Videos Get this FULL SERIES...

  9. Topsides Painting

    You scoop out enough paint to cover a two-foot by two-foot area. Then you follow this with a special paint roller. This roller builds up the peaks of the surface and completes the distribution of the Kiwi Grip. Doing the non-skid areas was easy, and it cleans up with water.

  10. Stepping a Sailboat Mast, Painting topsides & Rudder Repairs (Ep.17)

    0:00 / 30:29 Stepping a Sailboat Mast, Painting topsides & Rudder Repairs (Ep.17) Little Boat Adventures 2.39K subscribers Join Subscribe 3.3K views 2 years ago There's a lot going on in...

  11. Topside Paint Test Kick-Off

    For an average boat, an Awlgrip job, maybe including a cove stripe and boot-top, goes for about $140 to $180 a foot. That makes the job on a 30′ boat a $4,200 to $5,400 budget item. You can paint your own boat. Right? That's what led to this Practical Sailor test of high-gloss enamel.

  12. Topside Maintenance: Paints, Polishes, and Wraps

    April 29, 2014 There is a bewildering range of topside maintenance choices for keeping your boat looking great, or restoring one that's looking past its best. However, the most obvious (or expensive) options are not always the best solutions. There's nothing like a beautiful high-gloss shine on a sharp-looking boat. Photo by Gary Reich

  13. Painting the topsides

    I am a big fan of DIY. I love the satisfaction of doing things myself and if I save a little money along the way then great. I just finished stripping the bottom of my Pearson and applying 4 coats of 2000e and 3 coats of antifouling. My next project is to paint the topsides of a new Rhodes 18...

  14. How To Paint a Boat

    How To Paint a Boat Whether you're maintaining the topsides of a wooden classic or covering up old, faded gelcoat, the same prep and painting techniques apply. By Doug Logan April 14, 2021 Boats lead a rugged life, even if they don't go out that much.

  15. How to Paint Sailboat Decks

    Then Janet used a solvent wash to ensure a strong bond with the primer paint. 3. After dings and cracks were repaired and sanded, two coats of epoxy primer were applied. 4. Following another round of sanding, vacuuming, cleaning, and taping, the couple rolled and brushed on a fresh coat of Awlgrip topcoat. 5.

  16. Painting my topsides

    1 2 > Tags on the hard, paint, water « Panama to Mexico in August/September | Map of all navigable waterways in Europe » All, I'm planning to paint my topsides when the weather gets better in a few months. The hull etc have been recently painted / antifouled and this is purely a cosmetic upgrade. I can put her on the

  17. Topside-Paint Endurance Test 3-Year Checkup

    6. Our topside-paint test panels have endured three full years of 24/7 exposure to the elements, and the time has come for their final evaluation. Testers have annually scrutinized the paint swatches and rated the topside coatings on gloss retention, flow out, scratch resistance, and anti-oxidation ability. In this final round of evaluating, we ...

  18. Painting Boat Topsides, Deck, and Cabin with Pettit Paint

    The most beautifully durable, easy to use, long lasting polyurethane topside finishes. EZ Prime, EZ Poxy, EZ Decks, EZ Poxy Performance Enhancer, and Flexpox...

  19. Rey's Marine & Auto LLC on Instagram: "Full paint job from rub rail

    44 likes, 3 comments - reysmarineandauto on December 13, 2023: "Full paint job from rub rail down, full color change on outboards and multiple gelcoat repairs o..." Rey's Marine & Auto LLC on Instagram: "Full paint job from rub rail down, full color change on outboards and multiple gelcoat repairs on topsides!

  20. Free AI image generator from Microsoft Designer and DALL-E 3

    They're also fantastic for conceptual art, storyboarding for films or animations, and even interior design mockups. Designers, marketers, and art directors may find that AI-generated images are a game-changer when it comes to communicating early-stage ideas without wasting time and resources on polished early-stage designs.

  21. THE 10 BEST Moscow Boat Rides & Cruises (Updated 2024)

    Explore the scenic and historic attractions of Moscow from the water with the best boat tours and cruises. Enjoy the views of the Kremlin, the Cathedral of Christ the Savior, and the Sparrow Hills on a relaxing or informative boat ride. Or, spice up your trip with some water sports and activities in Moscow. Find out more on Tripadvisor.

  22. Ep10: FINALLY painting the sailboat! Topside, hull and bottom paint

    Finally after months of work we've painted the boat. We used AwlCraft products on the topside and hulls. The hulls are SeaFoam green, the bottom we used Tuff...

  23. Palouse Plein Air

    Painting Period: September 9 - 17 Artwork Drop-off: September 18 Exhibition: September 19 - October 4 Reception: September 19 from 5 - 7 p.m. Location: Third Street Gallery, 206 E. Third Street, Moscow, ID 8 a.m. - 5 p.m., M-F. Palouse Plein Air celebrates 15 years Palouse-region landscapes in 2024! ...

  24. Moscow River Cruise Tour with Friendly Local Guides

    Moskva river has the form of a snake and is the main waterway of Moscow, consisting of a cascade of reservoirs. Within the city, Moskva river is 80 km long, 120 m - 200 m wide and up to 14 m deep. The narrowest part of the river is the Kremlin area in the city center, and the most extensive is around the Luzhniki Stadium in the south.

  25. Art in Moscow: Museums, Galleries and Museum-Reserves

    Moscow Museum of Modern Art. Moscow Museum of Modern Art. Moscow Museum of Modern Art specializes in the modern art of 20th and 21st centuries. The famous Russian artist and sculptor Zurab Tsereteli has founded it. The museum is located in four historic buildings in Petrovka Street, Gogolevsky Boulevard, Ermolaevsky lane and Tverskoy Boulevard.