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1980 O'Day 23

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  • Sailboat Guide

1980 O'Day 23

  • Description

Seller's Description

O’Day 23, 1980 sailboat for sale $6,900 Lewisville TX

Great, solid boat. Perfect starter boat. Stable and responsive.

Shoal keel with retracting centerboard.

Stainless Steel bow pulpit Life lines gated at cockpit Anchor locker Anchor, rode and chain Roller furling jib w/ UV cover Wooden grab rails on coach top Genoa sheet fairleads on tracks Spinnaker turning blocks

Hummingbird 405 SX depth meter/fish finder Suunto bulkhead compass 2x Barient 10P winches on coming Spring assisted motor mount 6hp 4 cycle outboard

Large overhead opening hatch Storage below

Porta Potty mount Slide out sink Private with door Storage

Fold down, leaf out table Pin board to extend port settee to double berth Starboard side single berth Brass barometer and clock set Storage under settees

Slide out sink on starboard aft with holding tank Slide out stove table on port aft ce box under entrance step

Tandem axle roller trailer

or phone 214-673-SAIL (seven two four five)

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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  • O Day 23 Sailboat

1980 o'day 23 sailboat

O Day 23 Sailboat Boats for sale

Sailboat 23 ft. O'Day

Sailboat 23 ft. O'Day

Muskegon, Michigan

Model O'Day

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 23.0

Posted Over 1 Month

FOR SALE: 1979, 23 ft. O'Day Sailboat. Very good shape and ready to sail. Comes with double axle bunk boat trailer. All 3 sails are in great shape. Retractable keel for easy hauling and getting into shallow areas. Never been in an accident or grounded. Recently updated the electrical system. Comes with marine radio. Has a living cabin area complete with sleeping quarters and kitchenette / dining. Always been in fresh water. Comes with a great running 9.9 horse power Johnson out board motor with electric start. Anchor and line are in great shape.

Sailboat 23 ft. O'Day with trailer

Sailboat 23 ft. O'Day with trailer

FOR SALE: 1979, 23 ft. O'Day Sailboat and Trailer. Very good shape and ready to sail. Comes with double axle bunk boat trailer. All 3 sails are in great shape. Retractable keel for easy hauling and getting into shallow areas. Never been in an accident or grounded. Recently updated the electrical system on boat and trailer. Comes with marine radio. Has a living cabin area complete with sleeping quarters and kitchenette / dining. Always been in fresh water. Comes with a great running 9.9 horse power Johnson out board motor with electric start. Anchor and line are in great shape.

23 foot O day sailboat

23 foot O day sailboat

Harwich Port, Massachusetts

Three sets of sales, sleeps four, head, kitchenette, brand-new Lehr propane engine five horse, West Marine 8 foot zodiac.  College bound no time for sailing

23' O'DAY SAILBOAT COMPLETELY REFURBISHED

23' O'DAY SAILBOAT COMPLETELY REFURBISHED

Palmdale, California

23' O'DAY SAILBOAT WITH TRAILER IN EXCELLENT REFURBISHED CONDITION This boat has received very little use since the complete refurbishment It is ready for the new buyer to move aboard and sail. No additional equipment required for a complete sailing experience. NEW REDUCED PRICE SAVE $5000 1981 O'DAY SAILBOAT & TRAILER A Beautiful 23' O'Day Sailboat completely restored and refinished in 2013. No cost was spared in outfitting this boat for a couples vacationing for a night or a month. Will accommodate and sleep four. Approximately $16,000 was spent on the complete refurbishment in 2013. Equipped with the following: 1. Outside hull completely refinished in 2013 by Driscoll Marine in San Deigo, CA Newly sealed and bottom coated. No blister, scrapes, cuts or blemished noted.2. Inside interior was in excellent condition all fabric dry cleaned and scotchguard protected. All wood cleaned and refinished. 3. Completely new 12VDC and 120VAC wiring and electrical panels with the following: New switches & Circuit breakers All new wiring 12 & 120 volt New LED running lights New mast mounted fore & aft deck lights 800 watt 120VAC inverter New marine batteries (2) New marine battery switch (4) 120VAC outlets New VHF radio & new antenna 12VDC convenience outlets in cockpit and V-berth (14) LED interior illumination lighting 4. New Tohatsu 8HP 4 stroke long shaft electric start with generator outboard, less than 3 hours useage. 5. Midships radio or navigation station above the new push button heard.Drop down folding Galley Table amidships 6. Sails in excellent condition consists of: 100% Jib, main cleaned & refurbished in 2014 by Sail Care, 150% genoa and newly refurbished Ulmer Tri-Radial Spinnaker. Refurbished by North Sail. 7. All standing and running rigging replaced 2013. This includes all associated hardware like turnbuckles, snap shackles etc. Masthead removed and sheaves reworked or replaced. 8. All new plumbing, consisting of: New galley sink All new water lines New pressure on demand water pump New 2 1/2 gallon hot water heater New hot & cold cockpit shower New 12 gallon water tank 9. New Garmin GPS/fishfinder Chart-plotter combination cockpit mounted and weatherproof' 10. New Sailboat bulkhead mount compass, LED illuminated . 11. 1 new Danforth type anchor and 1 refurbished anchor with new anchor chain & lines. 12. Four new dock lines with set of extra lines 13. All sheets and halyard run aft to cockpit for single handed sailing New boom vang for mainsail. 14. Trailer custom modified for this boat. Very easy to trailer. I used a Toyto Highlander Hybrid to trailer up and down mountains and long distances. Trailer has new brakes and electrical lights. Trailer was custom modified by Driscoll Marine. 15. New compact microwave oven mounted mid-shipsSS BBQ Gas Grill in Cockpit. 16. New galley stove and eating utensils. 17. Wireless weather station mounted atop the mast with readout in cabin or cockpit. 18. (4) New un-opened lifejackets with (1) type 4 auto-inflating life harness for the helmsman. 19. (3) throwable type life saving devices. 20. (2) stadium type cockpit seats with backrests. 21. Outboard is mounted on spring loaded OB bracket for easy raising and lowering.22. New AM/FM/Cassett/CD Sony Receiver Sound System with Stero Speakers. Many more extras. Please call for specific information. At this time the boat is on trailer at Big Bear Lake, ready to launch and use or ready to trailerby lowering and securing mastThis Boat is ready to use and camp on, just add water. The buyer will receive years of wonderful sailing experiences without having to perform any major repairs or replacements. At this time the boat is on trailer at Big Bear Lake, ready to launch and use or ready to trailerby lowering and securing mast

1973 O'Day 23

1973 O'Day 23

New Milford, Connecticut

Private Seller (860) 350-2479 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 1973 O'Day 23,Excellent trailerable cruising sailboat. Below deck she sleeps up to 4. Microwave, stove, and refrigerator included. 6 hp Sea Master outboard motor. Many extras - call for details. Custom-made Triad trailer. Drive away with her today! $4800, 8603502479 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|

1987 O'Day 302

1987 O'Day 302

Cleverdale, New York

Private Seller (518) 915-8376 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 1987 O'Day 302, Set sail on this immaculate 1987 O'Day offered for sale by the original owner for $23.900. Great for both cruising and racing, this vessel has only seen freshwater use on beautiful Lake George in upstate NY. It comfortably sleeps two couples or a family of six. Lovingly maintained and priced to sell, this classic sailboat is one you'll treasure for years to come. SPECS: 10' beam by 30' length; 3'11" draft; 18 Hp Yanmar diesel with wheel; depth, knot, wind plus VHF & stereo; lazy jacks on fully battened mainsail; 150 genoa on roller furling; cruising spinnaker; 2 speed self-tailing winches; hot/cold pressurized water -30 gallons; propane stove; full head and shower; sleeps six. $23900.00, 5189158376 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|

Cruising Sailboat

Cruising Sailboat

Canastota, New York

Asking $45,000 Call or e-mail to arrange a visit: [email removed] or leave a message on my skype phone at 315-254-2452. The boat is located near Syracuse, NY. For full ad go to: https://persephone37.wordpress.com/ Dreaming of living aboard and sailing off to the islands? Persephone is a beautiful, well-maintained, fully equipped, self-sufficient, center cockpit sloop ready for cruising. As a well equipped and comfortable long-term live aboard yacht, she has taken her current owners to the Caribbean and back to upstate New York a number of times- and now she’s ready to take you to your dream destinations. “Persephone” was designed as the perfect coastal cruising vessel… large enough to be very comfortable yet simple enough to be able to sail her by yourself… a perfect combination of comfort and function. Through years of cruising, thoughtful upgrades and enhancements, her current owners have produced an exceptional live aboard vessel. Her extensive upgrades and refurbishing over the years makes her the one of the best equipped cruisers you will find in this price range on the market. Seasoned sailors will immediately appreciate the new Awl Grip on the hull, and on deck the Lewmar 65 winches and deep comfortable center cockpit protected from the elements by a dodger and bimini. Her windlass makes anchoring simple, and after the anchor is down, a cold beverage from the custom refrigerator will be appreciated. Worried about your beverages warming up at anchor? Never fear- her solar panels and wind generator output provides more than enough power. Down below, she has a spacious salon with center folding dinette, 6' headroom that leads forward to a head and V-Berth. LED cabin lights and aluminum Lewmar port lights keep brighten the interior, day or night. Her two staterooms and two heads offers plenty of room, lots of privacy, and an abundance of storage. When the winds dies, she is equipped with a 32 hp Universal diesel engine, 2 fuel tanks with Racor filters, and two 100 gallon water tanks. Main Salon ***Pictures Below***** The main salon features settees, port and starboard, and a centerline table with folding leaves and storage. There are plenty of opening ports, and an overhead hatch to provide wonderful ventilation. There is a navigator’s station aft of the starboard settee and the galley is aft of the port settee. A large custom made marquetry sailboat scene graces the forward bulkhead to port. Master Stateroom The O’Day 37 has a unique aft cabin master stateroom entered from the cockpit. It is completely private with a wonderful queen size custom pillow-top spring mattress berth. There is a hanging locker to port with storage shelves adjacent to the locker and berth. Additional storage is provided by more shelves and drawers to starboard. Five opening ports, together with the aft cabin companionway, provide wonderful ventilation. A private ensuite head contains a manual head and a vanity sink as well as a single opening port and overhead hatch. Guest Stateroom The guest stateroom is forward in the forepeak and consists of a comfortable v-berth with filler, storage under and in drawers and on shelves. An overhead hatch and an opening port allows for great ventilation. There is a full-size hanging locker aft of this cabin and opposite the head. Galley The spacious well laid out u-shaped galley is to port forward of the companionway and opposite the navigation station. It features 2 deep sinks with a butcher block lid, 3 burner stove with oven, a microwave, and plenty of easy access storage. The large, sensible, easy access refrigerator/freezer has a stainless steel holding plate and is just aft of the navigation table. Cockpit By far, the most comfortable cockpit you’ll find. Deep coamings with just the right angle to sit back and enjoy the sailing or the sunset. The teak table provides room for entertaining and dining all under the shade of the bimini. 2 huge lockers provides storage for everything! The helm has superior visibility while underway. “Persephone” 1981 O’Day Center Cockpit Sloop Builder: O’Day Designer: C. Raymond Hunt Dimensions LOA: 37' LWL: 30’4? Beam: 11’3? Displacement: 14,000 lbs Draft: 5' Bridge Clearance: 47' Ballast: 6,000 lbs Engine: Universal Diesel HP: 32 Tankage Fuel: 50 gals in 2 tanks Water: 185 gals in 2 tanks Holding: 15 gals Rigging & Sails New Rigging – New Stayloks – New Turnbuckles New Fully Battened Mainsail – 8.4 oz. Contender Cloth, 2 reef points Profurl Roller Furling 120 roller furl jib 90/Yankee 9 oz. roller furl jib Barient #10 main halyard winch Barient #18 mainsheet winch Barient #18 jib halyard winch Harken Lazy Jacks Lewmar Boom Vang Oversized Main & Jib Halyards – 9/16 Sampson Yacht Braid All Running Rigging – Samson Yacht Braid 2 Lewmar 65 primary self-tailing winches with Sunbrella covers Schaeffer oversized jib cars Electronics Raymarine 5000 Autopilot with below deck linear drive Standard Horizon DSC VHF Mic WHAM capable New Garmin 740 Touchscreen Color Chartplotter GPS (2012) has US Coastal + Alaska & Hawaii and Bahamas Explorer charts Standard Horizon DS 45 Depth Sounder Standard Horizon Speed Log Standard Horizon Wind Meter JRC 24 mile radar LaCrosse Weather Station Mast VHF Antenna Electrical 12v/110v systems with clearly labeled electrical panel and breakers 12 Volt Ships Power System 30 Amp Shore Power System 3 Siemens 75 watt solar panels on custom built arch 12v lighting Masthead Tri-Color Light/Anchor Light Class 2 Running Lights which are larger & have more visibility range 4 Interstate Deep Cycle Golf Cart Batteries (400 amp hour) New 2008 New Alternator 2009 Aerogen 6 Wind generator 2000 watt Inverter 12 volt bilge pump Propane shutoff solenoid switch for safety in galley Galley U-shaped galley with lots of storage Isotherm stainless steel holding plate DC refrigeration system with bronze March pump and digital Carel Controls Hot/cold pressure water Shurflo freshwater pump Hillerange LPG 3 Burner Stove with oven Microwave Oven 2 deep stainless steel sinks Cabinets, drawers and top loading dry storage locker Butcher block sink cover for added counter space Force 10 stainless steel 6 gallon hot water heater engine exchange Accomodations New LED lighting in main cabin 15” Flatscreen television with DVD player AM/FM stereo with 2 speakers Teak Interior with Teak & Holly Sole Large Framed Marquetry in Salon Sckandvik Faucet/Shower – Forward Head New Jabsco Toilets (2009) (3) opening hatches, (16) opening Lewmar aluminum ports Screens for some ports Engine 3 Engine room lights Rebuilt Universal diesel fresh water cool engine with easy access from front and back with 2 New water pumps and heat exchanger PSS Dripless Shaft Seal Hurth Transmission new 2004 Groco Bronze Sea strainer Dual Fuel Tank System with Dual Racor Filters – 50 gallon capacity AWAB 316 Stainless Steel hose clamps used throughout – Superior Non-Perforated – Lasts forever Deck New vinyl covered stainless steel double lifelines with opening gates each side Foam vinyl covered custom cockpit cushions Dodger with attached Bimini Anchor Locker Propane Locker on Aft Deck 44 lb Bruce Anchor with new (2012) 110’ oversized 3/8” chain and 120' 5/8” rope rode Fortress FX 23 with 50’ 3/8” chain & 80’ 5/8” rope rode Lewmar 2000 Electric Windlass Polished Stainless Steel Engine Controls 28” Stainless Steel steering wheel Stainless Steel Ritchie Compass at Helm Stainless Steel Bow Pulpit Stainless steel Stern Rail with opening gate Stainless steel built-in stern swim ladder Brushed stainless steel custom-built stern arch with dinghy davits Manual bilge pump Keel stepped mast Performance fin keel Stainless steel bow chocks 3 Bow Cleats Mainsail Cover Custom made companionway washboards with Lexan windows Edson Pedestal with Pedestal Guard Teak folding cockpit table with 4 cup holder Outboard Motor storage board Lifesling with Sunbrella cover Force 10 BBQ propane grill with custom cover Additional Davis radar reflector USCG safety equipment Boat hook, lines, fenders Emergency Tiller

Clipper Marine 23 Poptop sailboat & trailer

Clipper Marine 23 Poptop sailboat & trailer

Spanaway, Washington

1977 Clipper Marine 23 Poptop sailboat & trailer Photos Has new winch and swing keel cable. 4 Teak handrails just redone. galvanized trailer. Has Main, Jib, Genoa, and staysail, and in good shape except for a few stains. Auxillary motor mount will hold 9.9 outboard Also available are Tohatsu 6hp or Mariner 15 hp motors and Northwest 21 O'Day 22 MacGregor 25 For additional information, reply to this ad or see: http://www.vflyer.com/home/crlk?id=293869026&ps=16 vFlyer ID: 293869026

1986 Hunter Hunter 23

1986 Hunter Hunter 23

Buffalo, New York

Private Seller (716) 634-3284 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 1986 Hunter Hunter 23,Up for sale is a 1986 Hunter 23 Wing Keel Sailboat. The Hunter 23 is a twenty three-foot sloop, which weighs about 2450 lbs empty. Total trailering weight is around 4500 lbs., which allows many SUV's to pull it. It has an eight-foot beam and a mast height of about thirty-three feet. The boat has a fixed wing keel which draws about 2' 3". This particular boat has the wing keel which is ideal for the shallow lakes, as well as making for an easy to trailer boat. I preferred this boat to similar boats such as the Catalina and O'day because of the extensive use of teak in the cabin. The joinery in the cabin creates a very inviting atmosphere instead of the starkness of white gelcoat that is present in most of the small production cruisers. Overall it is in very good condition for a boat of its age. No water damage is noted and the gelcoat is in good shape. I no longer have time to use this boat: Mainsail, Doyle 2 full length battens, 2 partial length battens, with two reef points. Other equipment: 150% Genoa 110 JibAll cushions in cabin in good shape, there is wear on the salon cushions.Danforth anchor and rode. All lines led to cockpit for easy singlehanding and safety.Adjustable auxiliary motor mount. Alcohol stove and slide out galley. Mast raising system.sail bags and sailcover. Boom tent/awningTiller extensionSpinnaker pole 1990 Johnson 9.9 2 cycle $3500, 7166343284 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

El Cajon, California

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.

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1980 O'Day 23--Backstay

  • Thread starter stickman
  • Start date Jun 3, 2007
  • Oday Owner Forums
  • Ask An Oday Owner

Hey everyone I'm having a middle-aged moment (just turned 40) rigging my boat. On an O'Day 23, how long is the piece of cable that connects the aft chainplate to the bottom of the triangle (the top of the triangle connects to the back stay turnbuckel, the third hole attaches to the main sheet)? Thanks, Stickman  

Kelly

12" For what it's worth I have a similar backstay assembly on my 22. The section you describe is about 12 inches or so.  

HukilauMike

HukilauMike

Yup It's an even foot on my '79 Oday 23.  

Thanks, Gang! I was convinced that I lost the proper cable because this one seemed "too long." The truth of the matter is that the forestay needs some adjustment (I think something let loose on the forestay turnbuckle inside the furler). Thanks, again for your help! Stickman  

Skippercanuck

Oh Ho!...I learn sumthin everyday I have an ODay 23 that came to me unrigged and so, being a natcherly sorta cunphused dryland sailor, I was wobbling around in a bit of doubt about that dangly triangle thingy in the rigging pile that I got in a box with the boat. So thanks gang (twice). Now I know what its for! Oh Ho! Me an Mortimer Snerd can go sailing....eventually...and Oh Yah..I have lurnt about doing a bottom job underneath a trailer in my bug-ridden back yard...wow, six days of elbow grease, sandpaper and three kinds of gooey paint stuff...backachey!..But oh my!..What beats the satisfaction of messing around in boats, Huh?  

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  1. 1980 O'Day 23 sailboat for sale in Michigan

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  4. 1980 O'Day 23 sailboat for sale in Texas

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    1980 o'day 23 sailboat

VIDEO

  1. Recalling the old sailing adventures!

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COMMENTS

  1. O'DAY 23-2

    Definitions Rig and Sail Particulars HELP Sailboat Links Notes Successor and similar to, the original O'DAY 23 (w/pop top companionway). The O'DAY 23 (all versions) was in production for more than 10 years and was one of the company's most popular models. Also built in Brazil and sold under the same name. Sailboat Forum

  2. O'Day 23

    The O'Day 23 is a series of American trailerable sailboats, that were designed by C. Raymond Hunt Assoc. and first built in 1972. [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] Production The boat series was built by O'Day Corporation in the United States and the 23-2 was also built by Mariner Construções Náuticas Ltd in Brazil, but all are now out of production.

  3. 1980 O'Day 23-2

    Specs Designer Raymond Hunt (C.R. Hunt & Assoc.) Builder O'Day Corp. Associations ? # Built ? Hull Monohull Keel Stub + Centerboard Rudder ? Construction FG Dimensions Length Overall 7 m Waterline Length 6.1 m

  4. New 1980 o'day 23 owner with a load of questions

    new to me 1980 o'day 23 Im also new to sailing, I would love to see as many pictures as possible of the oday 23. 1.is there a original manual i can get somewhere? 2.it came with a 5 hp 4 stroke outboard, is this enough hp to get me in and out of the slip/harbor, and cruise if no wind? 3.Can this boat capsize easily?

  5. 1980 O'Day 23 sailboat for sale in Texas

    Description: Great, solid boat. Perfect starter boat. Stable and responsive. Shoal keel with retracting centerboard. On deck- Stainless Steel bow pulpit Life lines gated at cockpit Anchor locker Anchor, rode and chain Roller furling jib w/ UV cover Wooden grab rails on coach top Genoa sheet fairleads on tracks Spinnaker turning blocks Cockpit-

  6. 1980 O'Day 23

    1980 O'Day 23 with 7.5 HP ELECTRIC start Mercury OB. Motor has been serviced recently and carbeurator rebuilt. Sails are in good condition. ... The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more. Formula. D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³ D: Displacement of the boat in ...

  7. 1980 O'Day 23 sailboat for sale in Michigan

    Oday 23' 1980 Main,Jib, other sails, stove, sink, h2o pump, compass, depth, winches, head. Mmercury 7.5 hp long shaft, keel centerboard, trailer with tandem tires. Boat has been stored indoors since 2004. clean and good sailing dynamics...

  8. 1980 O'day 23-2 sailboat for sale in New York

    1980 23' O'day 23-2 sailboat for sale in Bath NY New York

  9. Oday 23 Sailboat Photo Gallery

    Oday 23 Sailboat pictures, a collection of Oday 23 sailboats with specifications and photos. Oday 23 Sailboat Photo Gallery. Home: Lessons: Rentals: How To: Forums: Videos: ... 3/24/16, 1980 Oday 23-2, Chesapeake Beach, Maryland, $3,000 8/22/05, 1980 Oday 23, Winthrop, Massachusetts, asking $4,500

  10. 1980 Oday 23

    $4,800 USD Save Share Seller's Description Oday 23' 1980 Main,Jib, other sails, stove, sink, h2o pump, compass, depth, winches, head. Mmercury 7.5 hp long shaft, keel centerboard, trailer with tandem tires. Boat has been stored indoors since 2004. clean and good sailing dynamics… Advertisement Specs Designers ? Builders ? Associations ? # Built ?

  11. My Sailboat Renovation Ep. 1: The 1980 O'day 23

    I recently purchased a 1980 O'day 23 foot sailboat. My plan is to renovate it and see where it takes me. I have been watching sailors channels for quite some...

  12. Boat: 1980 O'Day 23

    1980 O'Day 23 This O'Day sailboat has a hull made of fiberglass and has an overall length of 22.75 feet. The beam (or width) of this craft is 711 inches. This sailboat is rigged as a Sloop. The sail area for the boat is 246 square feet. Approximate displacement for the vessel comes in at around 3725 pounds.

  13. 1980 O'Day 23

    1980 O'Day 23 Lewisville, TX, US Listed Jun 2 Expired $6,900 USD Save Share Seller's Description O'Day 23, 1980 sailboat for sale $6,900 Lewisville TX Great, solid boat. Perfect starter boat. Stable and responsive. Shoal keel with retracting centerboard. On deck-

  14. O Day 23 Sailboat Boats for sale

    $5,000 Muskegon, Michigan Year 1979 Make - Model O'Day Category Daysailer Sailboats Length 23.0 Posted Over 1 Month FOR SALE: 1979, 23 ft. O'Day Sailboat. Very good shape and ready to sail. Comes with double axle bunk boat trailer. All 3 sails are in great shape. Retractable keel for easy hauling and getting into shallow areas.

  15. 1980 O'Day 23 sailboat for sale in Michigan

    1980 23' O'Day 23 sailboat for sale in Escanaba Michigan. Very good condition Main, Jib, 7.5 Mercury with adjustable motor lift, portable head, stove and compass.

  16. New & Used 1980 O'Day Sailboat Prices & Values

    Change Manufacturer Select Year & Model 1980 O'Day Sailboat Prices and Values Select O'Day Sailboats Models Below Once the largest sailboat manufacturer in the United States, the company O'Day was created in 1958 by America Cup sailor George O'Day.

  17. ODay sailboats for sale by owner.

    Next Page » Sort by: Length Year Price Added O'Day 40 Sailboat Added 19-Jun-2023 More Details O'day Oday 39 Sailboat Added 11-Apr-2023 More Details O'Day 39 Jeanneau Sun Fizz Sailboat Added 20-Feb-2022 More Details O'Day 37 Ceter Cockpit Sailboat Added 03-Jul-2016 More Details O'day O'day 37 Sailboat Added 15-Jul-2020 More Details O'Day 37

  18. O'DAY 22

    Definitions Rig and Sail Particulars HELP Sailboat Links Notes One of the most successful of all O'Day models with more than 3000 built. A fractional rig was adopted after 1980 (as shown here). Available with keel/cb and fixed keel. (The version with a mashead rig listed here as O'DAY 22 MH) Sailboat Forum

  19. 1980 O'Day 23--Backstay

    1980 O'Day 23--Backstay. Thread starter stickman; Start date Jun 3, 2007; Forums. Oday Owner Forums. ... Hey everyone I'm having a middle-aged moment (just turned 40) rigging my boat. On an O'Day 23, how long is the piece of cable that connects the aft chainplate to the bottom of the triangle (the top of the triangle connects to the back stay ...

  20. 1980 O'Day Prices & Values

    Select a 1980 O'Day Model Once the largest sailboat manufacturer in the United States, the company O'Day was created in 1958 by America Cup sailor George O'Day. Creating a wide variety of sailing vessels ranging from day-sailers to 40-foot yachts, O'Day success was accredited the mass production of fiberglass boats and the adoption of ...