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If you're looking for used sailing equipment for sale, here's where to find it! Just a few points first though:

1. Please contact the seller directly  - not  Sailboat-Cruising.com . We play no part in the transaction - we've done our bit in getting the two of you together!

2. Remember 'Caveat Emptor'!  Which is a Latin phrase with important legal significance -  'Let the buyer beware'!

3. Sailboat-Cruising.com  must make a disclaimer at this point, in as much as this is a free service intended solely to put a seller and a potential buyer in contact.  Sailboat-Cruising.com  accepts no liability whatsoever in connection with this free service.

Used Sailing Equipment for Sale (latest listing first):

But if you're looking to sell used boating accessories rather than browse through the list of used sailing equipment, Sellers - click here...

Otherwise, here's the current list of used sailing equipment for sale, newest submissions at the top:

Burke - Bosuns Chair

• Seller:  Rob
• Location: Menai, New South Wales, Australia
• Date:  February 24

Designed for working the mast while underway. The sit-in design offers good support, maneuverability and maximum comfort. Side storage bag, tool holder, padded timber seat, crutch strap, adjustable waist strap. Pick up Menai 2234 Mobile: 0404766679

Cape Horn Windvane Self-Steering System

• Seller:  Helen
• Location: Brisbane, Australia

Model: Spray.

Suitable for >40 foot sailing yachts.

Installed on our 44 foot yacht for approx. 2 years and was then uninstalled. Includes extra length horizontal axle and collar adaptor. All parts in excellent condition. 

Please see website for Cape Horn windvane steering systems for full details on installation and how they work. Sailing forums review this system very highly.

AUD $3,500 plus shipping from Brisbane, Australia

Battery Bank 900 Ah

• Seller:  Stefano
• Location: Greece

I am replacing my lead acid "TRACTION" battery bank with lithium, so this bank is now for sale.

It consists of 12x 2V, 450Ah 'Traction' batteries, designed for daily discharge on forklifts. Not your usual lead battery for sure!

I have it connected 6 in series to get 2 banks of 12V, 450Ah, then connected the 2 in parallel to get 900Ah at 12V. They could be connected all in series to get 450Ah at 24V.

They also come with an automatic Hydration kit that automatically fills all cells with fresh water when needed and a glassed plywood box if required.

The boat is near Athens, so you can either pick up directly there or I can arrange shipping in Europe if you want to negotiate the cost...

Wichard Gyb'Easy Boom Brake

• Seller:  Ellen
• Location: East Hampton, NY, USA
• Date:  January 24

Brand new (still packaged), never used BOOM BRAKE.

Retails for $450. Offered at $120.

Watt & Sea Hydrogenerator

• Seller:  Glen Shee
• Location: Florida, USA

New Watt & Sea 600W short leg (610mm) with 4 propellers (280mm/240mm/200mm/high-speed adjustable pitch). Equipment has been used for 2 hours only (I temporarily mounted to my F-27 to measure the output; needed the data for a research project). Output @ 10 knots measured at 40 amps. Cost to buy new: over $8,000. Offered at $4,000. In original box. Location: Florida

Fleming Windvane Self-Steering Gear

• Seller:  Dolores
• Location: Gardena, Los Angeles Area, CA, USA

Wind Vane Steering Pilot, Self Steering, Built by Fleming. 

Early model, used for 12 ton sailboat.

Includes mounting hardware, but not rods.

Only used on tiller, does not include reel that mounts to steering wheel.

Stainless Steel.

Sell as is.

In person sale only.

Spinlock XTS/2 Double Rope Clutch

• Seller:  Laura
• Location: Palm Coast, Florida
• Date:  December 2023

New in box - Spinlock XTS/2 Double Rope Clutch for lines 5/16" - 9/16" (8mm - 14mm) XTS0814/2

The Spinlock Double XTS Power Clutch is specified as standard equipment on production yachts worldwide and the choice of racing yachts inshore and offshore. This clutch provides reliable all around performance and is designed for mid to higher load line holding.

Specifications:

Rope Range - 8mm - 14mm (5/16" - 9/16") Load - 500kg - 1000kg (1103lb - 2200lb) Max SWL - 1000kg (2200lb) Weight - 1.05kg (2.31lb)

We bought it for our sailboat 38ft Wauquiez Hood, but sold the boat before fitting the Spinlock.

Bronze Lewmar Winches

• Seller:  David
• Location: Minnetonka, MN

Three bronze winches, Lewmar, 2 size 30, 1 size 16, all two speed, from Cape Dory 31 (1985), removed from boat in 1998, stored, maintained in excellent condition. Solid, smooth operation. $150. Buyer to pay shipping.

Scanmar International Windvane Self-Steering Gear

• Seller:  Patti Navilio
• Location: Saint Thomas, USVI
• Date:  November 2023

We bought a 2001 Island Packet. The original owners did transatlantic trips from the Virgin Islands to the Mediterranean. We will only be doing local sailing so do not want to store it. I am willing to sell for any reasonable offer.

Barient Winches

• Seller:  Chris Armbruster
• Location: Fenton, Michigan, USA

3 Barient Winches for $100 or best offer.

Great condition.

At least one is a two speed.

Winches are from a old CNC sailboat that we don't have anymore so no need for these.

Made in the USA.

Price does not include shipping.

Marine Satellite TV

• Seller:  Jacob Albano
• Location: Valencia, Spain

I have a KVH TracVision TV6 Marine Satellite TV that was installed on my boat but never used or activated. We do not not need the satellite TV since we have other services for TV on the boat. Mount and TV Hub included with the sale.

Andersen & Barient Winches

• Seller:  Stacie Hosier
• Date:  October 2023

Barient 21 winch, $125 plus $25 shipping.

Andersen 10 winch, $50 plus $20 shipping.

20hp Yanmar 2GM20F Diesel

• Seller:  ???????
• Location: Norfolk, Virginia, USA

1988 Yanmar 2GM Diesel Asking $3000 20hp 2 to 1 gear New exhaust manifold/elbow 870 hours ***New Yanmar control panel coming*** Very good condition Pick-up Only Location: Norfolk, Virginia Serious Inquiries ONLY contact (757)320-8265

Watt & Sea Cruising Hydrogenerator Tall Leg

• Seller:  Philippe
• Location: Redwood City, CA, USA

This is a never used long leg for a Watt & Sea cruising hydrogenerator. I purchased it from another sailor who never installed it and converted to a short leg. These are listed for 400 Euros. I'm listing it for $200 (USD) plus shipping. Or make me an offer, please.

Also listed is a Watt & Sea cruising hydrogenerator removable support. This was used for demo'ing Watt and Sea cruising hydrogenerators. Listing for $400 USD, here offered at $200 plus shipping or make me an offer please. 

45lb CQR Anchor & 50m of 10mm Galvainised Chain

• Seller:  Mark Sykes
• Location: West Yorkshire, UK

45lb CQR anchor for sale plus 50 meters of 10mm galvanised chain in excellent condition.

May deliver if close enough for a small fee to West Yorkshire area or between Wakefield & Hartlepool otherwise collection, or postage costs will have to be added. 

Gill Mens XL Offshore Foul Weather Jacket and Bibs

• Seller:  Harry DeBold
• Location: Ohio USA

Foul weather jacket and bibs

Gill Offshore yellow and blue color, like new, size XL.

Current West Marine price $375 each for jacket or bibs.

Yanmar Diesel Fuel Filters

• Seller:  Jeff Conn
• Location: Baton Rouge, LA USA

Four (4) Yanmar Diesel fuel filters.

Yanmar Part Number 119802-55801.

In boxes and membrane coverings.

Asking $80 and buyer pays for shipping.

Luff Hanked Dacron Staysail

5.5-8 oz Dacron 71 sq.ft. luff-hanked high clewed staysail.

• Luff 20' 04",
• Leech 17' 07",
• Foot 8' 05".
• 3' tack pendent.

Unused, asking $300, buyer pays for shipping.

27' Aluminium Mast & Whisker Pole 

• Seller:  Cheryl
• Location: Madeira Beach, Florida, USA

27' mast, whisker pole and 3 sails - $100 or best offer,

Call 727-317-7716 (Leave message if no answer).

Winch Handles

• Seller:  Anthony C Giaccio
• Location: Wayne, New Jersey, USA

1 Barlow and 1 Barient chrome-plated 10-inch Australian winch handles are for sale.

They were used on a 38-foot sloop and are in excellent condition.

They have ratcheting and locking features.

The value of these handles when new was $152, but the seller is willing to accept the best offer over $51.

Monitor Windvane Self-Steering Gear

• Seller:  Demnislake
• Location: Lakeport, California USA
• Date:  August 2023

Monitor windvane complete, 316 stainless steel with wheel adapter.

Asking $2,500

Miscellaneous Marine Equipment

• Seller:  Alex
• Location: Miami, Florida USA

Anchors, Line, chain, outboard motor mount, SS ladder etc

Spinlock Deckvest 150N Lifejacket Harness

• Seller:  Terry Moore
• Location: Islesboro, Maine USA

I have two Spinlock Deckvest 150 Lifejackets. One is a size 1, the other is a size 2. Both are in Like New condition. I am happy to sell them separately, or as a pair. Price is $275 for one, $250 each if you want both.

I also have two Kong Double elastic tethers from West Marine. They are both in Like New condition. I will sell one for $75, or both for $100.

New Harken Triple Block

• Seller:  Mike de Martimo
• Location: Oxnard, California, USA
• Date:  July 2023

I bought the wrong block and have a new Harken 1556 block for sale.

1/2" Galvanised Turnbuckles

• Seller:  David Snyder
• Location: Rushville, Illinois, USA

1/2" galvanized turnbuckles, like new $40/pair.

35 lb CQR Anchor

• Seller:  Roger Cook
• Location: Alexandria, Virginia, USA

35 lb CQR anchor for sale. Like new, never used. Price: $300. (Note: new CQR at West Marine lists for $795)

Airmar DST810 Speed Transducer

• Seller:  James Burdett
• Location: Vancouver, Canada

This plastic thru-hull NMEA 2000® smart transducer combines precise speed and temperature signals with attitude sensing for heel/trim and pitch/roll data.

This is a new unit but DEPTH reading is inoperative, speed and temperature reading are perfect.

Comes complete with through-hull fitting and blanking plug.

Raymarine SeaTalk to SeaTalkNG Converter Kit

All the necessary components to interface most SeaTalk1 devices to a Raymarine SeaTalkNG network.

Used to interface SeaTalk connectors found on ST40 and ST60+ sailboat instruments with newer SeaTalk NG networks.

$200 on Binnacle

West Marine Boat Buffer

Boat buffer/polisher with bonnet and case.

Good working order

Asking CAD $50 (USD $40, GBP £30)

Yanmar 3GM30 Exhaust Elbow

Straight OEM Yanmar exhaust mixing elbow for Yanmar 3GM30 marine diesel.

Perfect condition, ZERO corrosion as never used with salt water.

Part number 128370-1355. Retails new at USD $690

Asking Canadian Dollars $200 (USD $150, GBP £120)

TackTick Tactical Racing Compass

• Seller:  Chris
• Location: Downingtown, PA USA

This is a brand new never used tacktick microcompass with case, cradle, and all documentation in original packaging. Never used and fully functional. Can be used to display heading, tactical heading (for wind shift detection), and countdown timer (for race starts). Solar powered with internal rechargeable battery. Great instrument for racing, knowing immediately if wind shift is backing or veering. Paid $350, they now sell online for more than $600. Selling for $200 + shipping. Cash or Venmo.

Imray Paper Charts

• Seller:  Rosie Featherstone
• Location: Leicestershire UK

Vital backup paper charts to support cruises in the Channel, South Coast of England, France, Channel Islands and Northern Spain.

Imray paper charts prove invaluable when passage planning and passage making and are essential backup if the electronics go down.

We found it very difficult to create passage plans using electronics only as the details vary as the scales change.

We have decided to sell our beloved Malo so have the following used charts for sale as a set or individually.

• Imray 1:825000. C19. Cabo Finistère to Gibraltar
• Imray. 1:400000. C10. West English Channel passage chart
• Imray. 1;115000. C8. Dover Strait
• Imray. 1;300000. C12. Easter English Channel
• Imray. 1:400000. C10. Western English’s Channel passage chart
• Imray 1;350000. C48. La Coruna to Porto
• Imray. 1:80000. C36. Île d Ouessant to Rax de Sein
• Imray. 1;80000. C37. Raz de Sein to Benidet
• Imray. 1;80000. C38. Anse de Benodet to Presque île de Quiberon
• Imray. 1;127000. C42. La Gironde
• Imray. 1;109400. C41. Les Sables d Olonne to La Gironde
• Imray 1;109000. C40 Le Croisic to Sables d Olonne

Charts are all used but not torn and are in protective plastic wallets. All are in good condition. £5 per chart plus postage and packing. £50 for the set plus postage and packing.

Lotus Analin Boat Fenders

• Seller:  Robert
• Location: San Antonio, Texas, USA
• Date:  June 2023

Lotus analin 4 ribbed marine 8.5”x 27” boat fender black vinyl bumper dock shield protection new in box.

Various Items of Sailing Gear & Equipment

• Seller:  Glenn
• Location: Plymouth, MA, USA

Dyer Dow Sailing Dinghy; Davis Echomaster Radar Reflector; Sailboat Console Cup Holder; MOB Pole; Ibas Emergency Ladder; Fortress FX 37 Anchor; Boat Fender; Lifesling; Bosuns Chair; Harnesses and Jackline; West Marine 7x50 Binoculars; Davis Mark 25 Beam Converger Sextant; Icom SSB IC-M700 with AT-120 Antenna; Guest Anchor Light; 1/2" Anchor Line:-

• 250' of 1/2" Anchor Line Tagged in 50' Increments;
• 48' of 1/4" Diameter Anchor Chain;

Class B EPIRB Model ACR/RLB-21; Outboard Motor Mount for 1" Rails.

Mast & Standing Rigging (from Oyster 54)

• Seller:  Andy Dickson
• Location:  Henley on Thames, South Oxfordshire, UK
• Date:  May 2023

I have just converted to in-mast furling rig to simplify our Oyster 54 for 2 handed sailing.

The mast I removed is for sale including 4 spreaders and mast step, standing rigging, battened mainsail and sailbag.

This would suit anyone building/refurbishing a 50+ ft yacht. All equipment is in fully functional working order and very good condition.

All items are same age, dating from first launch in 2011, so 12 years old.

All equipment currently held in Ipswich, Suffolk.

Sensible offers invited.

ENO "One Grand Large Gascogne" Boat Oven

• Seller:  Robert W
• Location:  Northamptonshire UK

ENO "One Grand Large Gascogne" Gimballed 2 burner, oven, no grill, no ignition.

Jets for Campingaz.

Excellent condition.

Measurements: 467 H x 504 W x 244 D.

Revere Offshore Liferaft

• Seller:  Peter Helmetag
• Location: Riverside, Rhode Island, USA

Revere 4 Person Off-Shore Life Raft

Recently Re-packed by Life Raft Safety

Expires 1/26 - see invoice for details

Soft Valise

Crewsaver 6-Person Liferaft

• Seller:  Nick Rapagnani
• Location: New Jersey, USA
• Date:  April 2023

Crewsaver ISO 9650-1 Ocean Life Raft - 6 Person - Over 24 Hours.

Next Inspection date May 2021. Needs recertification by Authorized Crewsaver service center. Sold AS-IS.

Selling at half price of new.

Like New Condition, never deployed. Just needs recertification.

Asking $1,400 plus shipping.

Lewmar 43ST Winches

• Seller:  Keith
• Location:  Sarasota, Florida USA

These Lewmar 43 self-tailers have aluminum drums, are fully cleaned, lubed and ready to install. 6.5" bases.

Asking $1,500 for both + shipping

941-504-1215 - leave message for call back

Operator Manuals for Universal Engines

• Seller:  Thom
• Location: Center Conway, NH USA

Full Service, Parts List and Operators Manuals for Universal M-25XPB, M-35B, M-40B engines. We've repowered so no longer need. Fully Detailed.

• Service Manual 109 pages
• Parts List 56 pages
• Operators Manual 157 pages

in one binder

Rutland Windcharger

• Seller:  Mike Smith
• Location: Wells, Somerset, UK

Rutland Windcharger-Model 910-12v

NEW, never been assembled

Asking £500

Gill Yachting Boots

Gill tall yachting boots (blue) EU size 42 - AS NEW

Helly Hanson Thermal Pants

Helly Hanson Hi-Vis thermal/orange pants C48-W33/L32 Detachable braces and hanging pockets Asking £55

AIS Class B & Chartplotter Xinuo HM-5912N

• Seller:  Marco Keller
• Location: La Manga del Mar Menor, España

12.1" Colour LCD Display Built In AIS Transponder (VHF Antenna Required) External GPS Antenna 800x600 Resolution 6 Display Modes Memory: 10,000 Waypoints, 200 Routes, 10,000 Marks C-MAP MAX Compatible Interface: 1 x AIS Output Port, 2 x NMEA 0183 Outputs, 3 x NMEA0183 Inputs (Baud rate can be set independently) Power: 12-36vDC

Asking €525

Davis Echomaster Radar Reflector

• Seller:  Andrew Mason
• Location: Auburn Alabama, USA
• Date:  March 2023

Slightly used, but appears brand new.

Side-Power Thruster Upgrade Kit

• Seller:  Peter
• Location: Fort Denaud, Florida, USA

Side-Power Propeller Upgrade Kit SE80/100

Fits SP75-95

New in box with 2 props, all hardware, adapters and zincs.

I've sold my boat have no use for this as it was aboard for spare

Taylor Made Dock Box

• Seller:  Dave
• Location: Ashland, Kentucky, USA

Taylor Made fiberglass dock box. Purchased from West Marine.

It measures 50" long, 18" wide, 23" deep.

Dock box is in excellent condition.

Not cracked, scratched or damaged. Always been cared for.

New ones of this size are selling for $699 and up.

Call me on 606-615-3659

Custom Synthetic Teak Decking for Beneteau 311, complete kit, NEW

• Seller:  Zoltan Sachs
• Location: Essex, Vermont, USA

For sale is a complete set of factory pre-cut synthetic teak decking for a Beneteau 311 sailboat. I bought it pre-cut and decided to instead replace the two sections that needed it. Paid $700. Looking to recover some of my cost. What's included:

• Custom New York Style PlasDeck mat-Teak w/Black Lines
• Off-White Sausage Glue, two tubes
• Roller to rollout each piece evenly

All NEW, never used, direct from manufacturer. Will ship. Please inquire.

• Location: Toronto, Canada

2 Barient Self-Tailing Winches, Anodized Aluminum, size 27, in good condition.

Freshwater use only.

$500 Canadian, per unit, shipping not included.

1 Barient winch, size 18, in good condition. Fresh water use only.

$150 Canadian, per unit, shipping not included.

Lewmar Electric Anchor Windlass

Lewmar Electric Anchor Windlass, 12 V, Gypsy and Drum, Model H2.

Never used or installed.

Manual and all installation materials included.

Gill Foul Weather Gear

• Seller:  John
• Location: Seattle, USA

Gill foul weather gear: bib and jacket. Both men's large size.

Like new. Never worn. 

Lofran Windlass Royal 8mm

• Seller:  Jeannette
• Location: Stock Island, Florida Keys, USA

Like new. Minimal use.

Located on Stock Island, Florida Keys.

MAXX 700 Watt DC to AC Inverter

• Seller:  Dennis Woods
• Location: Canton, Michigan, USA

This is a 700 Watt Marine inverter. It tops out at 1400 Watts. It is corrosion and vibration resistant, and is built by VECTOE.

IT HAS NEVER BEEN USED! The little digs in the paint are from being moved around my basement for some years. It has three plugs. My name is Dennis Woods. I live in Canto Michigan, between Detroit and Ann Arbor. 

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Cal 2-46: A Venerable Lapworth Design Brought Up to Date

Rhumb Lines: Show Highlights from Annapolis

Open Transom Pros and Cons

Mailport: Charley Morgan, Locker Safety, Fast Bottom Paint

Do-it-yourself Electrical System Survey and Inspection

Install a Standalone Sounder Without Drilling

The Tricked Out Tillerpilot

Resolving Common Steering Problems

Top-notch Wind Indicators

The Everlasting Multihull Trampoline

In Search of the Snag-free Clew

The Cruising Sailor’s Argument for High-tech Fibers

Breaking Point: What Can Go Wrong With Your Yanmar?

Rudder Mods for Low-speed Docking

Using Heat to Bend PVC Pipe

Mildew-resistant Caulks for Boats

Can We Trust Plastic Boat Parts?

Repairing Molded Plastics

Mailport: Marine plywood, fuel additives, through bolt options, winch handle holders

The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions

Cockpit Drains on Race Boats

Rhumb Lines: Livin’ the Wharf Rat Life

Resurrecting Slippery Boat Shoes

Shoe Goo’s Gift to Sailors

PS Advisor: Tank Monitor and Camera Mount Hacks

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits

The Ultimate Guide to Caring for Clear Plastic

Preventing Mildew in Marine Fabrics

Gearing Up for Winter Sailing

• Belowdecks & Amenities

Galley Ranges and Small Stoves Update

If theres one person you want to keep happy on a cruise, its the chef, and making sure your galley slave has the right tools to get the job done starts with choosing a quality range or stove that fits your needs. in the final review of a three-part series on galley cookers, testers evaluated four marine stove/oven combos and followed up on the small stoves test with a look at one two-burner and two single-burner cooktops..

We received four galley ranges for our test&emdash;three propane stoves and one alcohol stove. The propane models were: Force 10 Gourmet Galley (Model 63351), Seaward Princess Model 3175, and Tasco Model 755LP. The alcohol-fueled Origo 6000 by Dometic was the only non-propane stove we tested. Our hunt for the best marine stove looked at the stoves construction, durability, performance, safety, size, and price.

                                                       ****

To say that the stove you select for your boat is a choice you will live with every day is not much of a stretch. That stove will be looking back at you every morning when you fire up the burners for coffee in a quiet anchorage, and during every roll of your boat during a storm. Whether youre baking bread during a crossing or just breaking eggs shoreside, its good to know whats cooking in the marine stove market.

What We Tested

In this review, the third in a three-part series on galley stoves, we contacted all the major stove manufacturers and asked for multiple-burner, stove-oven combinations for cruising sailboats. We received four stoves for our test&emdash;three propane-fueled stoves and one alcohol-burning stove. The propane models tested were: Force 10 Gourmet Galley (Model 63351), manufactured in British Columbia; Seaward Princess Model 3175, made in Whittier, Calif.; and Tasco Model 755LP, manufactured by the Taunton Stove Co. in North Dighton, Mass. The alcohol-fueled Origo 6000 by Dometic (an international company with addresses around the world) was the only non-propane stove we tested.

Alcohol-burning stoves of the past used a pressurized system that put out about half the heat of propane at twice the cost per hour. The Origo 6000 uses a wicking action with no pumping and no pressurized alcohol. It produces heat equivalent to that produced by propane by burning a greater amount of alcohol. A typical burner on a propane stove puts out about 5,000 BTUs. Origo claims to get 7,000 BTUs per burner, making it highly competitive against the three propane stoves we tested.

In this review, we looked at the stoves construction, durability, performance, safety, size and price. Heres a look at how they fared.

Force 10 63351

The Force 10 stove immediately stood out in this line-up, with its mirror-polished 304 stainless steel exterior and built-in pot holders.

The three-burner stovetop has stainless steel caps screwed in place over each burner, eliminating rattle underway and protecting the stoves thermocouples (temperature sensors that automatically shut off gas flow when the flame is extinguished) and gas jets from spills. This also keeps the caps in place during extreme conditions. The downside? You need a screwdriver to clean the burners, but well gladly deal with the extra cleaning step to be free of an irritating rattle. It also has a 2-inch lip on all sides to keep spills from ending up in the oven or on the cook. The grill grate lifts easily for cleaning and can be detached and removed for more extensive cleaning.

The Gourmet Galley model has two 4,100-BTU front burners and one 8,200-BTU back burner. Although the back burner failed to boil water significantly faster in our tests, it simmers well and offers a wider flame for sauces and big pots. The Tasco is the only other stove tested with a larger back burner.

The Force 10 burners are easy to use, with electronic lighting and ergonomic control knobs. The knobs must be held all the way in for 20 seconds to heat the thermocouple before a flame can be retained.

One nice feature is that the “high” flame setting is at the top of the burner-control dial, while the “low” flame setting is at the bottom, with a stop installed at the bottom. To turn the flame off, one must turn the dial up and past the “high” setting; you cannot accidentally turn the flame off when trying to coax it into its lowest setting.

The Force 10 has a 10-second cut-off time for safety. The feature, called a flame failure device (FFD), activates when a flame on either the burners or inside the oven is accidentally extinguished; the gas flow is stopped 10 seconds after flame-out.

The typical propane burner at 5,000 BTUs will boil two cups of water in about 4 minutes. The Force 10 (which clocked in at 6 minutes in several boil tests) was slower than both the Tasco and the Origo to boil water, but by only 90 seconds and 30 seconds, respectively.

The pivoting pot holders are easy to install and adjust. They effectively cover both the front burners and the back burner. After some time, the pot holder bases were showing signs of rust.

Force 10s signature feature is its fold-away oven door. When opened, the oven door tucks into a slot below the oven and, without the weight of the oven door pulling it forward, the stove tilts very little on its gimbals.

Practical Sailor found that, although it takes a while to get used to the oven handle lock and the open-and-shut motion, this feature is handy in a tight galley. The major drawback is that the oven door easily unlatches with an upward bump. If a cooks knee or a childs head inadvertently bumps the handle up, the door drops open.

The oven has a thermostat but no thermometer, and the readings on our Fluke thermocouple (placed in the center of the oven) read between 50 and 100 degrees below the number testers set on the Force 10 oven thermostat dial. The Force 10 oven is the only oven tested that has a separate oven-top broiler.

The oven took longer than the Seaward and the Tasco to heat up to 350 (by 2 minutes). Force 10 representatives explained that the oven has a lower heat output (and takes longer to heat up) to enable better control and even cooking.

“In a small oven cavity such as a marine stove, a higher oven output does not mean that it is better,” Force 10 Vice President Brad Clark told

Practical Sailor . “The trade-off for a fast heat-up time is usually poor regulation and a very poor low end temp setting.”

Testers found this to be true as the Force 10&emdash;once it reached the desired temperature&emdash;out-baked all three other ovens in the pizza-cooking and brownie-baking tests. The pizza crust came out with just the right combination of crisp edges and soft center, and the cheese was cooked without being burned. The brownies were baked all the way through with a cake-like center and no over-done spots or gooey, underdone spots.

Some Force 10 models are specifically equipped to burn LPG while others are equipped to burn CNG. The two are not interchangeable but a conversion kit is available.

Bottom Line:

Designed and made for the offshore cruiser, the Force 10 takes the cake by a sliver. Top-quality construction with all safety features, it out-cooks&emdash;and likely could outlast&emdash;the other stoves in our test. Its our Best Choice.

Origo has managed to resolve consumers major concerns about alcohol cookers by developing a stove-lighting system where all the cook has to do is open a flue and light the burner directly. No pumping is needed; no pressurized alcohol is needed.

And our tests showed the burners boiled water nearly as fast as the propane stoves. The Origo 6000 stovetop has a small lip to contain spills. The grate does not lift up for cleaning. The burner knobs are hard to turn, but thats because you are actually opening a flue. The dials on the knobs run from low to high counter-clockwise, making it more of a challenge to adjust the flame to simmer without accidentally turning the flame off.

Although the boil times were about the same as the propane stoves, the Origo oven took significantly longer to warm, heating up to 350 F in 12 minutes. (Compare that to the other ovens average time of 6 minutes). The oven door can be opened with one hand, is spring loaded, and locks on closing. In place of thermostat settings, the oven has numerical “0-4” settings and a thermometer inside the oven, although this tends to fog up during cooking. There are two shelf options inside the oven, with no lock to keep shelves from sliding out.

Practical Sailor noted that a 9×13 pan&emdash;a standard size baking pan&emdash;cannot be used on the top shelf because the oven thermometer, on the left front interior, blocks a couple of inches of the shelf. The pan can be used on the lower shelf. The Origo brochure recommends a maximum pot size of 9 inches in diameter for the stovetop burners.

The spring latch that you have to press down to open the oven door gets very hot when the oven is in use and can’t be touched with a bare hand. The same is true of the oven door and the handle.

In our baking tests, the Origo heat distribution wasnt as even as the propane stoves. The pizza crust started to burn around the outside while the middle was still soggy. The cheese was melted but did not cook. The brownies took longer to cook and finished with over-crisp edges and a soft center, but would certainly be eaten.

As noted in our last tests, the Origo burner tops rusted fairly quickly after the salt water spritz test. Origo, a company which regularly receives kudos from Practical Sailor readers, says it will replace these free of charge. Rust streaks were also noted on the stove body, but these cleaned up fairly easily.

Origo has managed to eliminate many of the fears and hassles associated with alcohol stoves. The oven doesn’t offer terrific heat regulation, but if you want to skip adding a propane locker to your boat the Origo foots the bill.

Seaward Princess 3175

The Seaward Princess boasts a sleek, stainless steel design on the exterior with three 7,000-BTU burners&emdash;two in the front and one back burner. The burner tops and the oven interior are coated with porcelain enamel found in conventional home ovens, allowing for a pretty look, good heat distribution, and an easy clean up. The Seaward manual states that the porcelain is not extremely delicate but that it is glass and must be treated as glass. The two-year warranty clearly excludes it. Sharp blows can cause the enamel to chip or crack. According to the owners manual, foods with acids&emdash;vinegar, lemon juice, tomatoes, and milk&emdash;can also dull the finish.

Stovetop burners are topped with two-piece porcelain caps. These caps distribute heat well and are easy to clean as they lift right off of the burners. The tradeoff is having another loose part that can rattle or get loose in a knockdown or rollover (when loose stove parts are the least of your worries).

The Seaward is the only stove in the test that boasts deep, wide, individual spill pans around each burner. There is a minimal lip around the stovetop, though.

The pot holders can be arranged to reach either front burner but not the back burner. Youll want to put a burr in the knobs threads so that the knob wont twist all of the way off.

The Seaward has a convenient 12-volt piezo-electric lighting system; no lighter is needed to fire up the stove burners or the oven pilot. A 4-foot cord with AC/DC transformer can be plugged into an AC outlet, or the cord can be wired directly into the ships 12-volt system.

The Seawards thermostat system uses a pilot light. This remains lit when baking, while the burners turn off and on as needed to control oven temperature. The stove and oven control knobs are easy to turn and clearly marked, but they do pull off easily.

Porcelain coating on the oven interior makes for a nice looking, easy-to-clean surface. A heat distribution plate at the bottom of the oven is attached via two screws. The oven has a thermostat to control temperature, but there is no thermometer. The oven light is a nice feature not found in the other stoves. The brushed stainless oven door is spring-loaded, nicely balanced, and needs 6 pounds of pull to open. There is no way to lock the door closed.

The oven heats up quickly, but it was difficult to control the temperatures. Our Fluke thermocouple showed oven temperatures rise quickly, then slow down but continue to rise at a slower speed; they don’t level off. Our test pizza cooked too quickly on the bottom, browning the crust before the cheese cooked on top. The brownies fared better and were about the same quality as those cooked in the Force 10. Both pizza and brownies were better than those cooked in the Origo and the Tasco.

The Seaward Princess oven wont hold up to abuse that the Force 10 will, but it is easy to clean and performed well in the boiling and baking tests. A very close second, and at nearly $250 less than the Force 10, we give it the Budget Buy.

Tasco 755 LP

The Tasco has two 6,000-BTU front burners and a larger, 10,000-BTU back burner. The burners are topped with attached porcelain caps that wont lift or fall off and are easy to clean. The stovetop has a small lip all around to contain spills. The grate lifts up for easy cleaning but does not detach.

The burners and oven are easy to light with Tascos piezo-electric lighting, powered by a 9-volt battery. The knobs on the test stove came off easily, and one lost its glued-on label that showed what direction to turn the knob for “high flame” or a “low flame.” Without the label, the cook must watch and listen for the flame to decide whether the burner needs adjusting.

The oven door is secured by a lock, and two hands are required to open it&emdash;one to release the lock and one to open the door. The door is spring loaded with an automatic lock that engages when the oven door shuts. The Tasco is the only model in our test that has both a thermometer and a thermostat, but its also the only model without a glass door. The thermometer has both Celcius and Fahrenheit readings.

The oven door handle is plastic coated, allowing the cook to open the oven while its in use without donning a glove. The oven interior is polished to a mirror finish and cleans up easily. The locking shelf has two mounting options.

The Tasco, in repeated boil tests, boiled faster than the others, with an average of about 4 minutes. The water temperature increased quickly, compared to the other two propane stoves. Although the stovetop temperatures and the oven temperatures shot up quickly, the brownies took longer to cook in the Tasco, and it was harder to adjust the interior oven to the called-for pre-heat temperature. The oven didnt seem to self-adjust (as measured by our Fluke thermocouple), so we tried feathering the dial up and down to try to get the stove to stick to the right temperature. The oven does have a temperature knob and a thermometer, so you can monitor and adjust the temperatures.

The Tasco-cooked pizza didnt fare well, with partially browned, partially soggy crust and under-cooked cheese with temperatures set at 425 F. The brownies werent cooked as evenly as those baked in the Force 10 and the Seaward. The outside edges were slightly overcooked while the brownie center still gooey.

The Tasco is a well-made stove with excellent seagoing features like attached burner caps, high sea rails, and a large oven. Overall, however, it was not up to par with the Force 10 and Seaward Princess.

All four stoves are well constructed and meet safety standards, and all would fit the bill for a weekend cruise or a day sail.

For the serious cruiser, both the Force 10 and the Seaward Princess are built to last and can cook up storm&emdash;and cook through one. The irony is that the best feature for each is also its drawback feature: The Force 10s unique fold-away door opens easily when bumped, and the Seawards porcelain finish offers excellent heat distribution, looks great, and cleans easily, but it can be chipped by hard use.

The Force 10 gets the edge by a whisker for Best Choice honors, while the Seaward is the Budget Buy.

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Sailboat Cooking Fuels

Posted by Theresa Fort | Sailing Tips

A clean look at the “dirty” half dozen

Pros and cons of the six main fuels for galley stoves.

When it comes to choosing a marine stove fuel there is rarely anyone completely happy with the choice. All fuels have a “dirty” side to them, and some sides are deadly as well. Alcohol is heating-impaired. Kerosene is maintenance-dependent, and a mess if spills occur. Diesel is hot and has sooting problems. Electricity is power-hungry and generator-dependent. Compressed natural gas (CNG) is explosive and expensive, as well as hard to find. And what about liquefied petroleum gas (LPG)? The potential for a massive explosion aboard your good old boat gives LPG both a deadly and a “dirty” side.

After talking to more than 30 marine stove owners about their fuel and stove choices, I learned that, like me, almost every one of them had learned to cook and live with whatever stove and fuel came with the boat when they bought it. But, even though it was chance that decided it, most owners were happy with their stoves and fuels.

As the years go by, however, good old boats need refitting. We may need to replace our stoves. Then when it comes to fuels, choosing one of the dirty half dozen is unavoidable, and this time it won’t be chance that decides. We are wrestling with this decision aboard Lindsay Christine , our Mercator Offshore 30. Our propane stove is more than 20 years old. And it looks it, at least what you can see of it, because most of it has rusted away. In the hopes of making the “right” decision, I did extensive research and asked many boaters about the marine stoves and fuels they use.

What follows are some pros and cons of marine stove fuels from my own research and some advice from the experts – other stove owners – to help you decide which is the best choice for you.

Heat vs. cost

The heat output of fuels is determined by test. The table on the next page shows approximate heating values – approximate because, with the exception of electricity, all of these fuels are mixtures, and their exact content varies from source to source.

One Btu, or British thermal unit, is the amount of heat energy needed to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water 1°F, starting at 60°F. One Btu is also equivalent to 252 calories, and 1 calorie is the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of 1 gram of water 1°C.

The Btu/lb. column in the table offers a way to compare all fuels (except electricity) with each other. Btu/lb. would only be a significant figure of merit, however, in cases where the major consideration was the weight of the fuel load. If you are doing a serious weight comparison, you will want to include the weight of all parts of the cooking system, including the tanks, plumbing, and stove.

Most sailors will care more about the cost and availability than about the weight difference. The column showing Btu per significant unit is provided to show the heat content of the unit of measure in which the fuel is normally purchased.

The cost per 500,000 Btu shows how significant the difference is between various fuel costs. For purposes of comparison, 500,000 Btu may be taken to be (very roughly) the heat required to cook for four people for 90 days. If you live aboard your boat, multiply that figure by four for an estimate of annual cost. If you sail in a northern climate on weekends and get in a two-week vacation, your annual fuel requirement will likely be only about half of the 500,000 Btu shown.

Generally speaking, the cost difference between these fuels for weekend sailors is not significant enough to be the reason for changing fuel types, because the cost of new equipment is high relative to the cost differences between fuels. Liveaboards and long-ra nge cruisers may find the cost differences more interesting.

Fuel availability

Here is a table showing the availability of fuels – excluding electricity, since electricity is generated by using another fuel. I used the word random to describe the availability of CNG in the U.S. because, even with a long list of available stations, I had great difficulty finding a place that really did refill CNG cylinders in Florida, where I live. But I’ve been told it’s much easier to find in other parts of the country where EPA standards have forced the use of CNG as a motor fuel and where natural gas is a common fuel for heating.

Auto-ignition temperature

The table on the next page shows the characteristics of fuels, also excluding electricity. It gives the auto-ignition temperature of each fuel. This is the temperature at which a fuel will automatically ignite without a spark or flame. The flash point, on the other hand, is the temperature at which the fuel will ignite when there is oxygen and a spark for ignition.

Stove fuels one by one

Alcohol fuels for stoves are generally composed of ethanol, methanol (added as a denaturing agent), methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, and water. The exact percentage of these components varies rather widely from one supplier to another. Nigel Calder, in his book, Boat Owner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual, states that the best fuel for stoves is ethanol. For practical purposes, this would be a fuel like Tru Heat, which is 92 percent ethanol, 5 percent water, and 3 percent methanol. It has only trace amounts of other compounds, such as methyl isobutyl ketone, ethyl acetate, and rubber cement. In contrast to this fuel, Soot-Free, the fuel endorsed by Origo for use in their stoves, is not a high-ethanol-content fuel. Soot-Free contains roughly 71 percent ethanol and 20 percent methanol, as well as methyl ethyl ketone, acetone, and water.

You can also buy suitable fuel in paint and hardware stores labeled as “denatured alcohol.” Kleen Strip is one brand that notes on the container that it is suitable as a shellac thinner and as marine stove fuel.

One test Nigel suggests is to pour a sample of the fuel into a clean (oven-proof) dish and burn it. If there is any residue after the fuel is completely burned, it’s unsuited for use as a stove fuel. In addition, stove-fuel vendors will send you a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for their products listing the chemicals in the fuel by percentage.

Alcohol has been advertised to be the perfect environmentally correct fuel because it is mostly produced from renewable resources (plant matter). It is a relatively safe fuel because of its low volatility. This makes it safer than other fuels in the closed environment of a boat. Alcohol-stove owners like the fact that there is no hauling of heavy and cumbersome storage tanks, that fires can be extinguished just by adding water to the fire or fuel, and that it is a clean-burning fuel.

But it’s not the perfect fuel. Some people say the sweet smell of burning alcohol makes them nauseous. It’s more expensive per Btu than all the other alternatives except CNG, averaging $9 a gallon across the U.S., and its availability is irregular outside of the U.S. and Canada. The price of alcohol outside the U.S. is also quite high.

There are two basic types of marine stoves that use alcohol as a fuel, pressurized stoves and non-pressurized stoves. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Pressurized alcohol

I chuckled as I read LaDonna Bubak’s description of lighting her pressurized alcohol stove. She sails her boat out of Portland, Ore., and writes:

“(First you) have to fill a small tank, pump it up to pressurize it . . . preheat the burner by allowing a puddle of fuel to develop, light it, jump back so flames don’t singe eyebrows, extinguish (any) flaming curtains, etc., then, when the puddle-flame almost dies, you turn on the burner and hope it catches.” A lost memory flashed into my mind. It was my first and only attempt to light the pressurized alcohol stove aboard our Catalina 22. As flames shot up above my head and within reach of the cabintop, I heard the kids approaching. They were arguing about whose idea it was to have lunch aboard Gypsy Rose. Trembling, I made sure the burner was off, then nervously searched for something with which I could extinguish the flame. There was no water. Gypsy Rose was in our driveway. I found a pot lid that had fallen on the cabin sole in the confusion of the flare-up. The fire went out as I covered it. I took a deep breath. Amie arrived first with Alex close behind, full of spit and vinegar.

“Mommy, tell Amie that I thought of it first! Here’s the soup . . . ” Then there was silence as they both watched me pack up everything and start to close up the boat. “Mommy, are you OK?” I vowed never to light that stove again as I replaced the tarp and walked back to the house. I had no idea that this experience was almost normal for lighting a pressurized alcohol stove until I talked to other boaters about their stoves.

A few of the boat owners I questioned were happy with their pressurized alcohol stoves, but the majority were looking to replace them. Many were not comfortable using the oven because of concerns with priming and flare-ups. A few owners commented on being bothered by the sickeningly sweet smell of the alcohol and the paleness of the flame, which makes it almost impossible to see in bright light.

The real danger of flare-ups seems to come from failing to light the burner on the first try. After the first try, the burner may not be hot enough to sufficiently vaporize the fuel by the time all the fuel in the priming cup has been burned. So the chef opens the control knob to allow more fuel into the priming cup, and the fuel ignites sending flames sky high. While the burner was not hot enough to vaporize the fuel the first time, it was hot enough to ignite the liquid alcohol added again. If the stove is gimbaled at the time of lighting, flames can splash onto other parts of the boat and the cook. According to Optimus International, the best advice is to let the burner cool off before filling the priming cup with fuel again.

Pressurized alcohol stoves are not maintenance-free. The customer service department of Kenyon Stoves explains that severe pulsing of a burner or a glowing red cap during operation are caused by dirt and scale buildup in the filter and burner body. The burner should be stripped of all removable parts, cleaned, and rebuilt.

With Kenyon alcohol stoves, a wick in the center of the burner is lit. Pressure builds up in the burner as the available fuel heats up, causing alcohol vapors to be released into the burner to be used. Regardless, most alcohol burners work in the same way and require the same maintenance.

One stove owner, known as “Captain Key West,” from Key West, Florida, commented that he thought the bad press about pressurized alcohol stoves comes from the fact that they need to be maintained to work well, especially after many years of use. He writes, “I think many people disenchanted with alcohol stoves may have based their opinions on only having used poorly maintained stoves. I used to be surprised how alcohol stoves got a bad “rap” since mine worked great for many years before it started getting “fussy.” Now, I realize many users are not aware that these stoves are not maintenance-free. They buy a used boat, never can get the stove to work right, then complain about how poor alcohol stoves are. They’re not listening to their stoves which are begging for maintenance!”

I know I never gave my pressurized alcohol stove a chance after that first lighting.

Non-pressurized alcohol

Non-pressurized alcohol stoves are quite popular. The Origo brand stoves have helped to keep alcohol in fuel-option lists for boaters. All non-pressurized alcohol stove owners I questioned are happy with their stoves. Some even commented that they cook faster than pressurized alcohol stoves and claimed speed close to propane. But the fuel is expensive.

These non-pressurized stoves use a wicking action to deliver fuel to the flame, instead of pressure, making them very safe, with no flare-ups. The fuel is stored in canisters under the cooktop. The canisters contain nonflammable wadding with a shield-type cover that closes over the canister to extinguish the flame, somewhat like cooking with Sterno.

These stove users/experts seem to agree that non-pressurized alcohol stoves are the way to go if you are interested in using alcohol as a marine stove fuel. In fact, two of the pressurized kerosene stove owners are switching to non-pressurized alcohol with their next refit.

Safety considerations (alcohol)

While it is true that alcohol fires can be put out with water, sometimes the water displaces the alcohol, and the fire continues to burn.

• Fill the fuel tank no more than three-quarters full to allow space for increased air pressure.
• Before lighting and throughout the burner’s use, pressure in the storage tank needs to be around 7 pounds per square inch (psi).
• Once you have successfully lit the burner, run it on a low setting until the burner gets really hot; then it can be adjusted for your cooking. Turning the valve all the way open will put out the flame, because there is a cleaning needle that comes out when you turn the knob all the way counterclockwise.
• Never refill the priming cup or stove while the burner is on or even hot. The alcohol in the container may ignite.
• Clear the area above and around your stove of any flammable objects, including your eyebrows, before priming your stove.

Special hints (alcohol)

• Experienced users of alcohol stoves recommend that you use heavy cookware to reduce the scorching that can occur if the burner has a hot spot.
• On pressurized stoves, cook and bake using a strong flame to reduce chances of the flame’s dwindling and being blown out.
• Most owners agree that it helps to use the stove manufacturer’s fuel because it burns more cleanly.
• One owner uses a contact-solution bottle to hold alcohol for the priming process. It give you better aim and more control over the amount released.
• Pressurized alcohol stoves can be converted to kerosene by replacing the burners. As a caution though, one stove owner commented that he was witness to one such conversion exploding aboard a friend’s boat. Make sure the conversion is done correctly.
• Several owners use small bicycle pumps with pressure gauges to pressurize the fuel tank to the proper pressure. Ferenc Maté’s book, Shipshape: The Art of Sailboat Maintenance, explains the use of a bicycle pump for pressurized alcohol and pressurized kerosene stoves. He suggests getting rid of the pump that came with the stove and finding a valve from a bicycle tube. Solder this valve into a washer and use the nut that came with the tank to thread it into place with a small rubber gasket between.
• Dan Spurr, in his book, Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, recommends putting a pot on the burner when priming. It will partially contain the flames and provide a darkened area which enables you to see the flames better.

Compressed Natural Gas

There’s a lot of technical merit to compressed natural gas, but its popularity has never developed. Natural gas is a mixture of hydrocarbons – mainly methane (CH4) – and is produced from gas wells or in conjunction with crude-oil production. It’s a very clean-burning fuel and burns hotter than alcohol. It also has an advantage over LPG in that it is lighter than air. So it is a much safer gas. Any leaks tend to rise to the cabintop and escape through any point that has an opening to the outside. But vapors could still build up in areas of the cabin that have poor ventilation, so care should be taken to have good airflow aboard. I know of one boatowner who has had trouble-free use of his CNG stove for the last 16 years.

CNG’s disadvantages are much the same as LPG’s. It’s a highly volatile gas stored under pressure, much higher than LPG. CNG is stored at 2,250 psi, compared to LPG’s 150 to 180 psi. The cylinders are heavier and more cumbersome because CNG requires a thicker-walled tank. The tanks also require recertification periodically. CNG also costs more per Btu than LPG. I found the price of a refill in Florida to be between $10 and $16 for 84 cubic feet.

But the biggest drawback seems to be the lack of availability outside the U.S., as well as in some areas within the U.S. A special quick-release fitting can be bought through Corp Brothers, Inc., to allow you to fill your tanks from a utility-company or automobile-station pump, when found.

Safety considerations (CNG)

A good-quality, spark-proofed alarm and sniffer should be installed aboard any boat with a compressed natural gas stove.

• CNG cylinders should be stored away from the cabin in self-contained storage lockers that are vented overboard above the waterline, with venting at the compartment’s highest level. Or they may be stored outside on deck.
• Cylinders should never be painted a dark color. In direct sunlight a cylinder could absorb enough heat to cause it to rupture.
• CNG and LPG cannot be interchanged without modification to the stove.
• CNG burned in LPG stoves will produce only about half of the designed output.

Diesel is a high-energy fuel that is not volatile. It does not give off flammable fumes, and it is inexpensive and available worldwide, especially in areas of commercial fishing. There are pressurized and non-pressurized diesel stoves. Pressurized diesel stoves are operated much like kerosene and alcohol stoves. Non-pressurized “drip pot” diesel stoves use a metering valve to deliver fuel to a drip-pot-style combustion chamber. The burner can be fed by gravity or by a pump. The drip-pot-type stoves are quite popular on commercial fishing boats and aboard yachts in northern regions.

They are known for producing a dry heat because they draw in moist air from the cabin for combustion and expel it through the chimney as flue gas. For boaters living in cool climates most of the year, this means a warmer and drier boat. Drip-pot diesel stoves can also be used to produce hot water when a water coil is added to the stove. Another advantage is the fact that you will only be using one type of fuel if your auxiliary engine is diesel.

A downside for drip-pot diesel stoves is that they tend to heat the cabin as well as the food. They are slow to warm up and cool down because they are made of heavy cast iron. With a constant oven temperature of 350°F, a cabin can get quite warm in the tropics. Sooting and down drafting can also be problems when a drip-pot diesel stove is not properly adjusted or if poor-quality fuel is burned. Installation of the drip-pot variety can be quite difficult just because of the weight of the stove itself. And, because of their weight and the chimney required, drip-pot diesel stoves cannot be gimbaled. It would be best to install one athwartship. Since the flue removes combustion products from the cabin, the build-up of carbon monoxide gases is not a concern as long as the stove is working properly and outside make-up air is brought into the cabin.

Special tips (diesel)

The key to being happy with your diesel stove is to learn how to operate and adjust it. Understanding how your stove works, and adjusting it properly, will save your sails (as well as the rest of your boat) from soot. Jeannie and Jack, aboard their Columbia 50, Terri Knot, had terrible sooting problems with their diesel stove on their trip to Alaska. After several phone calls to the manufacturer, they were finally able to adjust it properly. They are pleased with the heat it generated while cruising in the cool north. But Jeannie commented that it would have made the trip more enjoyable if they could have worked out the stove’s idiosyncrasies before their trip.

• Filtering your diesel fuel with a “Baja” filter will increase the efficiency of your stove and reduce sooting. If you don’t have a very fine filter of this type, you can also filter fuel to some extent using panty hose.
• If you are planning on cruising in tropical climates with a diesel stove, consider bringing along a small cook-top that uses an alternate fuel – such as propane, butane, or alcohol – to reduce heat in the cabin.
• Diesel stoves will burn cleanly with sufficient draft. Make sure your flue is the proper length and diameter. It is important that the flue be installed without any bends to restrict the air flow. Make-up air must be allowed into the cabin for the stove to have proper draft.

Electricity

For those boaters who have an alternating current (A/C) generator, or who find themselves close to shorepower quite often, electricity may be the answer. It is highly efficient, there are no problems about storage and fumes, and the fact that you may already have shorepower aboard your boat makes it easy to install. If your electrical cooking appliances include a microwave, it will speed up cooking times, helping you to use less energy. It will also conserve vitamins during cooking, and it will not heat up the cabin. Because electricity is a dry heat, it will also mean a drier cabin, something that helps with all boats.

But, if you will be relying on a generator to power your stove, there will be an increased need for diesel or gas, depending on your energy source. Increased use of your generator also means increased wear and maintenance, increasing the total expense of this type of fuel. The noise of having to run the generator or engine each time you use your electric appliance can also be a disadvantage.

Special tips (electricity)

• Make sure all wiring is accessible so you can check for corrosion periodically. If some of the wires are hidden or difficult to get to, it will be a tedious job to find the cause of a malfunction.
• Proper maintenance of your generator is a necessity when relying on electricity for your cooking. Consider having a small back-up stove aboard.
• If you will be running your generator in quiet anchorages, consider anchoring farther away from other boaters. It will go a long way toward improving relationships with those who are living without generators.
• Try to combine stove needs with battery charging to enable you to run the generator less frequently.

Kerosene, also called paraffin outside the United States, is a colorless, thin oil. It’s less dense than water, and it’s made of a mixture of hydrocarbons commonly obtained from the fractional distillation of petroleum. As with alcohol, there are pressurized kerosene stoves and non-pressurized kerosene stoves. Pressurized ones function much like pressurized alcohol stoves. Kerosene burns hot – much hotter than alcohol. It is inexpensive and widely available in the U.S. as well as overseas.

Eric Freeman, who sails Blackguard, an old Seawolf ketch, in northern Washington state, commented that kerosene is easy to find, being available anywhere jets fly. Kerosene is not as volatile as alcohol and can be easily stored. Because kerosene – like alcohol and diesel – doesn’t have to be under pressure, it is easy to be aware of how much fuel you have left. A well-maintained and properly running stove is odorless and soot-free without any flammable fumes to worry about.

But kerosene stoves can be hard to light. These stoves require priming with alcohol, a tricky business. They can also have a sooting problem if the burners are not adjusted properly. They can smoke liberally when firing up and smell terrible. Spills take a long time to evaporate and can be a problem because they will soak into cushions and be a fire hazard for a long time.

Non-pressurized kerosene stoves are often discussed with diesel drip-pot stoves since they are so similar. Kerosene can be burned in a diesel stove and is the cleaner of the two in that application. The advantages and disadvantages of non-pressurized kerosene stoves are the same as those for diesel stoves. Like diesel stoves, kerosene drip-pot stoves cannot be gimbaled and are usually made of heavy cast iron with a flue.

Special tips (kerosene)

• It’s important to buy the best-quality kerosene possible to reduce the chances of clogged burners. Good-quality kerosene is colorless and as clear as good drinking water.
• You can check the quality by burning a small puddle in an ovenproof dish. Any gooey remainders mean a poor-quality fuel for your stove.
• Filter your kerosene through a “Baja” filter to eliminate particulates.
• Keep a small spray or squirt bottle of alcohol (like a contact solution bottle) close by to use when priming the burner.

Liquefied Petroleum Gas

LPG is a gaseous paraffin hydrocarbon, extracted from crude petroleum or natural gas, containing propane and butane. Most LPG produced and sold in the U.S. is primarily propane. It seems to be the fuel choice for a large number of marine-stove owners, especially international cruisers. They seem drawn to it because it is cheap, burns hot and clean, and has world-wide availability. I found the average price to fill a 20-pound cylinder was $10, which lasts our family of four an average of three months while traveling. But, it has some major drawbacks that can make it a very dangerous fuel to have aboard.

LPG is highly explosive and heavier than air. Any leaks in the system can go undetected, sinking into bilges and creating a very dangerous situation. And, on stoves without thermocouples, it is too easy to leave a burner on accidentally after the flame goes out, leaving an explosion waiting to happen when the cook goes to re-light a burner.

Thermocouple-controlled solenoid valves control the flow of gas on some stoves. When heated, the dissimilar metals in the thermocouple generate electrical current that causes the solenoid valve to open. When the thermocouple cools, it does not generate the electrical current and thus the valve closes, cutting the supply to the burner. This is why, upon lighting your burner, you need to hold the valve open for at least 30 seconds to allow the metals to become warm enough to generate the electrical current which will hold the solenoid valve open.

LPG (as well as CNG) requires constant vigilance in its use and storage on board. All crewmembers should check and re-check to make sure all switches and shut-off valves are in the proper position. LPG’s high volatility also creates a transportation problem. Transporting cylinders to be re-filled can be difficult. The thick-walled cylinders are heavy and cumbersome. These cylinders, like CNG cylinders, have to be re-certified after several years. The date of the next re-certification should be stamped on the cylinder. Due to safety concerns, many buses and taxis will not allow usually outside of town in order to reduce loss of life and property should there be an explosion. This makes them difficult for cruisers to reach without transport.

Though propane and butane are usually lumped together and called LPG for simplicity, they have a few differences.

Butane : This gas liquefies at higher temperatures than propane does. At extremely low temperatures, butane’s evaporation rate will be so low that the stove will not operate. But butane can be stored in a propane container.

Propane: In extremely cold conditions, propane can be used when butane would fail to evaporate. Propane can be used interchangeably with butane. But propane cannot be stored in butane cylinders because it has a higher cylinder pressure.

Safety considerations (LPG)

For excellent instructions on the proper installation of an LPG system, read Chapter 14 of Nigel Calder’s Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual.

• It is a good idea to install a good quality sniffer that will sound an alarm when vapors are detected. But be sure it is spark-proofed so that turning it on will not ignite any vapors already present.
• LPG cylinders should be stored away from the cabin in self-contained storage lockers that are vented overboard above the waterline, with venting at the compartment’s lowest level. Or, they may be stored outside on deck.
• Cylinders should never be painted a dark color. In direct sunlight, a cylinder could absorb enough heat to cause it to rupture.
• Install a lighted manual switch at the stove with a solenoid valve to shut off the gas at the tank when the stove isn’t in use.
• LPG cannot be interchanged with CNG (compressed natural gas) without modifications to the stove. Propaneburned in a CNG stove will produce extremely high flames and dangerous overheating of the appliance.
• When re-filling cylinders outside the U.S., make sure the LPG has a smell to it. It is not safe to have LPG (or CNG) aboard if it is odorless.
• Be careful not to have your cylinders filled beyond 80 percent capacity. There should be two weights stamped into your cylinder, the empty weight, called tare weight, and its net fill weight, the safe weight of LPG that can be added. Upon weighing your filled tank, it should not weigh more than your tare weight plus your net fill weight. If it has been overfilled, some of the gas will need to be vented carefully away from flames and sparks. An overfilled cylinder is a terrible danger aboard your boat. Increases in the ambient temperature could cause a rupture of the cylinder or could cause liquid LPG to be pushed into the low-pressure lines, a very dangerous situation that would ruin, at the least, an oven’s thermostat.

Debbie Lyons, reaches through the portlight to shut the propane off at the tank aboard Rhiannon.

Special tips (LPG)

Having an easy shutoff valve close to the storage cylinder helps reduce dangers. Aboard Rhiannon , Debbie Lyons, of Seattle, stores her propane cylinder on deck near an opening portlight over her sink. She only has to open the portlight to shut off the propane right at the tank. She shuts off the propane at the cylinder as her cooking is completed and when the flame dies, signaling that all the propane has been used in the lines, she turns off the burner. Before lighting, as a double check, she makes sure that all burners are turned off first. (Make sure the portlight will not allow LPG to drain into the cabin if there is a leak at the cylinder.)

Hunting for leaks is required maintenance for propane stove owners. It is a good idea to periodically apply soapy water to all tubing connections in your installation. Bubbling signals a leak that should be immediately fixed. Also use your nose for finding leaks. As with CNG, an odor has been added to LPG. Never use a flame to test for leaks.

To check the level of your propane tank, boil a cup or so of water and pour it on the outside of your propane tank. Right afterward, feel for the level of much cooler propane in the cylinder.

Propane and CNG are serious materials to have aboard a boat. The ABYC (a voluntary boat construction standards organization) recommends that the following label be placed near LPG fuel tanks:

Caution This system is designed for use with liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) only. Do not connect compressed natural gas (CNG) to this system. Keep cylinder valves and solenoid valves closed when boat is unattended. Close them immediately in any emergency. When on board, cylinder valves or solenoid valves shall be closed when appliances are not in use. Keep empty cylinder valves tightly closed. Close appliance valves before opening cylinder valves. Test for system leakage each time the cylinder supply valve is opened for appliance use. Close all appliance valves. Open, then close, cylinder supply valve. Observe pressure gauge at the regulating valve and see that it remains constant for not less than three minutes before any appliance is used. If any leakage is evidenced by a pressure drop, check system with a leak detection fluid or detergent solution which does not contain ammonia and repair before operating the system. Never use flame to check for leaks.

At the end of the ABYC standard on LPG systems is the following note:

• Never use flame to check for leaks!
• Never use solutions containing ammonia. Ammonia, which is present in soaps and detergent, attacks brass fittings. Undetectable at first, in a matter months these fittings may develop cracks and leaks.

Ammonia which is present in some soaps also attacks copper tubing in the same way. In fact, it is the copper in the brass that is attacked by the ammonia.

Watch out for CO

With electricity as the exception, it’s important to make sure that the galley has sufficient oxygen to keep the stove working properly. A deficiency of oxygen causes any fuel to burn improperly, resulting in an output of carbon monoxide, rather than carbon dioxide.

For this reason, a carbon-monoxide detector is a worthwhile investment. We have one aboard our boat that saved our lives in Alaska. One night after having hot cocoa before bed, we accidentally left the pilot light in our oven on. Even with a cracked hatch, there was not enough oxygen inside the cabin. We were slowly awakened when our CO detector went off, releasing a mind-boggling blare of noise that just barely woke my husband, Chuck, and me. The kids were sound asleep with the detector right above their heads. We were able to get the kids and ourselves out of our cabin in time, with only headaches to complain about. The fresh air never felt better. Now we make sure the CO detector always has a good battery.

Decisions, decisions

In Jimmy Cornell’s book, World Cruising Survey , the most popular cooking fuel was LPG. In fact, 138 boaters chose LPG with the other fuels barely showing up: 17 others chose kerosene; two chose diesel; one chose alcohol; and two chose electricity. LPG was the most popular choice among the people I talked to, as well. But I found many more owners who chose alcohol than Jimmy did. This is probably because I talked to coastal cruisers and weekend boaters. I also talked to only 32 stove owners. For what it’s worth, refer to the chart of my findings on Page 53.

Which to choose?

After weighing all of the pros and cons of the dirty half-dozen, I still haven’t made up my mind about which to choose. But our plans for cruising outside the U.S. have ruled out CNG and alcohol. And electricity won’t work aboard our boat without a generator. LPG is at the top of our list, but I hesitate because of memories of singed arms, flames in my face lighting our oven, and waking up to our carbon monoxide detector blaring. All these are memories from forgotten pilot lights and burners not turned off completely. It makes me gun-shy. I know the safety mechanisms on the new LPG stoves, as well as a proper installation, will take care of those problems. But should I choose to have our family depend on that?

Then there’s kerosene and diesel to consider. Decisions, decisions. Maybe we could buy a new good old boat with a stove already installed so I could leave this decision to chance. Maybe I’ll make Chuck decide.

Article from Good Old Boat magazine, March/April 2000. This and other cooking aboard articles are also available in the Good Old Boat Galley Book .

About The Author

Theresa Fort

In another life long, long ago and far away, Theresa was a home economist with a specialization in consumer education. After receiving her BA in home economics at the University of Montana, she went on to become a master food preserver with the co-operative extension office in Montana. Still, it took life aboard a sailboat to convince her to use her own pressure cooker. Theresa and family have lived and cruised aboard Lindsay Christine, a Mercator Offshore 30, since 1995.

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Eight of the best marine cookers

We’ve selected the best marine cookers on the market.

Dickinson Marine Mediterranean gas stove

Dickinson Marine’s Mediterranean stove features its trademark heavy-duty stainless steel construction, with laser cut decorative touches. It’s equipped with three efficient and powerful burners, and push-and-turn electronic ignition. 

• dickinsonmarine.com

Eno Open Sea

Constructed using highly polished marine-grade stainless steel that lasts well in the marine environment and is easy to clean, the Eno Open Sea features twin burners and an enamelled oven.

• service.eno-marine.fr

Dometic Marine Moonlight cooker

Dometic’s Marine Moonlight cooker comes with a gas oven, grill and three-burner hob. It boasts a heat-resistant glass door and interior light for easy viewing of what’s cooking. For safety, it has an oven door safety lock and safety ignition system.

• dometic.com

Taylor’s 030L diesel stove

Taylor stoves are fuelled by pressurised diesel, which is a sound alternative to gas. 

The 030L is the largest and most versatile in the range and offers an enamelled top plate hob with two burners, a grill underneath and a deep oven.

• taylorsheatersandcookers.co.uk

GN Espace Levante

GN Espace high quality cookers and its Levante range is purpose-built for cruising sailors. 

The Levante comes with the choice of 2, 3 or 4 hobs. There is the option of a solid or glass door and it’s quick to heat, economical with gas and provides excellent cooking performance. It comes with a multi-directional gimbal system option which provides a stable platform for cooking.

• gn-espace.com

Tasman 4500 gas hob

The Tasman is a good budget option if you don’t need an oven.

This gas-powered cooker features twin hobs and a grill.

It is lightweight at 5.8kg (12lb 11oz) and compact, being just 45cm wide and 37cm deep. It comes with an enamelled pan and features one large hob burner and one standard burner. 

• plastimo.com

Origo 3000 stove

The Origo stove is definitely aimed at smaller boats and daysailers. It provides a compact alternative to a large gas cooker. There is no oven and this simple cooker is fuelled by methylated spirits. The stove is topped up by removing a pair of canisters stored underneath the hob. The Origo is also available as a single-burner unit. It’s available with gimbals or can be mounted directly into a worktop.

Kuranda Nordic 85NDT diesel hob and heater

Another interesting alternative to a standard gas cooker, the Nordic NDT lacks an oven, but by way of an alternative, doubles up as a heater, being an excellent source of the sort of dry heat that gas installations are not able to provide. The Nordic can be run direct from your diesel tank and is flush mounted on your worksurface making it a smart, compact and practical option.

• kuranda.co.uk

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How to Use a Stove Gimbal

Last Updated by

Elizabeth O'Malley

June 15, 2022

If you want to know how to cook on a gimbaled stove, put on your safety strap and get ready to go with the flow!

Despite the challenges that gimbaled stove cooking presents, read on to learn differences between fore/aft stoves and athwartships stoves, why counterbalancing a gimbal stove is important, key parts of and accessories for a gimbal stove, and how to get started slowly and build confidence when gimbal-stove cooking.  

Whether you want an omelet and bacon for breakfast or a pot of chili for cold winter nights aboard, you need to know all about gimbaled stoves, how to cook on one, when to cook on one, and if you should cook on one. I’ll cover all this and provide some tips for taking gimbaled-stove cooking to the next level.

While these days, I’m primarily a day sailor, I am an enthusiastic hostess and take any opportunity I get to clamber aboard friends’ boats and take over the galley. Many experienced sailors I know are hesitant to even bother with “fancy cooking” (which some folks consider gimbal stove cooking to be). They are often content cooking with the outdoor grill and maybe a pressure cooker, but when I can borrow a friend’s galley as a “test kitchen,” I jump at the chance. It’s a (mostly) fun learning experience and the compliments during and after meals are (mostly) worth the sometimes unsettling, make-it-up-as-you-go moments that often happen when cooking on a gimbaled stove. Let’s go over a variety of things to keep in mind when you’re deciding if French onion soup and flourless chocolate cake courtesy of the gimbal stove really need to be on the underway menu.

Table of contents

What is a Gimbal or Gimballed Stove?

In short, a gimbal stove has the ability to swing – with the motion of the boat – so that, just like your legs and knees “swing” with the movements to keep you from tipping over, the stove swings so that pots and pans and tonight’s dinner don’t go sliding off and crashing and splashing all over the galley (or the cook)! Typically, but not always, a gimballed stove runs fore and aft and like a gimballed compass or gyroscope (or even gimbal drink holders), the point is to keep the item (stove, gyro, compass, drink) upright even when the boat rolls or pitches.

Measuring how many inches your stove can swing can be translated into degrees – and gimbal stoves will swing anywhere from 20 – 40 degrees. Candidly, when you get up into the high end of that range, cooking on a boat stove, despite the desire for a hot meal, probably loses a good bit of allure (certainly for the cook). Of course, if you can coax the (fairly experienced) skipper into a heave-to situation you may be able to achieve your goal – it’s just not something I’m willing to risk. (And, per a good friend’s experience: practicing heaving-to while concurrently learning how to cook on a gimballed stove is highly inadvisable!)

Were a stove not to be gimballed on a boat (and there are boats with stoves that are not gimballed, but hard pass for me on that setup), even with pot restraints in place, the likelihood of spills, splashes, and crashes is extremely high. So, what’s a cook to consider when contemplating a gimbal stove adventure?

To Gimbal Fore/Aft or to Gimbal Athwartships?

Depending on the direction a gimbal stove faces, the direction that the stove tilts will vary -- because of the direction of the axis of the gimbal. So, it will either tilt fore/aft or port/starboard. Most boats are going to come with a fore and aft-gimballed stove, but in case you are custom-building or considering refitting your galley, a few things you should consider relative to an athwartships stove set up:

• Rather than facing port or starboard, the cook will look fore or aft. This can be helpful because should a splash or crash occur, the contents will likely spill to one side or the other (port or starboard) and not fore/aft -- in the direction of the cook.
• Athwartships stoves will likely take up less (swinging) space than a fore/aft set up but there’s a beam consideration because of the rectangular shape of the stove and it’s widest sides would be athwartships. crashing
• Athwartships allows for a greater degree of swing than fore/aft stove setups, which decreases the possibility of the oven door banging open. (More on door latches to come!)
• Also, something to keep in mind: the closer the stove is to the centerline, the less overall movement the stove is subjected to. This is a good thing and is much harder to achieve with most stoves aligned fore/aft to a wall.

Counterbalancing on a Gimbal Stove

Depending on the number and location of burners on the stove, when using the stove in a gimballed and not locked position, it’s a good idea to counterbalance the active hot burner with a pot filled with water of equal weight – kind of like keeping scales balanced or a seesaw balanced. This helps keep the stove even keeled, so to speak.

Equipment to use with a Gimballed Stove

Safety strap for the cook.

While opinions are greatly divided on the use of a safety strap for the cook in the galley, I am pro-safety strap – depending on the way that the galley is configured. Some fear that a strap can trap the cook in place should a big wave or roll launch piping hot or boiling contents off the stove – a legitimate fear, I guess. These folks sometimes express similar reservations about car seat belts because they “can trap you in your car if it’s on fire and you can’t get out.” But a safety strap doesn’t have to be as binding and constricting as a seat belt and doesn’t have to lock you in place directly in front of the stove. Galleys vary – U-shaped, L-shaped, open, tight – and just as in kitchens the way you move in different spaces is going to vary. Taking the shape of the galley into consideration as well as the likelihood of the need to be cooking in such rough conditions that warrant a safety strap are the priority criteria for myself and other much more seasoned gimballed-stove cooks.

Gimbal Stove Latches

There are two important latches or locks on gimbal stoves.

• The stove latch secures the entire stove into a locked, non-swinging position. At anchorage, it may be possible to use the stove in the latched position, recognizing that even small waves can slosh a pot’s contents or slide a pot off a burner. (Fiddles or pot restraints to minimize this possibility are covered below.)
• The oven door latch keeps the oven door from crashing open in choppy conditions. Securing this latch becomes second nature by the third time the unlatched door flails open, regardless of whether there’s a meal cooking inside.

Pot Restraints and Fiddles

Two items that help keep pots and pans in place whether in the oven or on the stove top are pot restraints and fiddles. Fiddles exist in various forms throughout boats – on flat surfaces – to act as a catcher to keep items from sliding off the flat surface. You can have fiddles on shelves, tables, and yes, appliances like a stove. Until I got a bit saltier and learned they were called fiddles, I called them bumpers or guard rails – not exactly sailing jargon – but landlubbers knew what I meant.

Pot restraints on the other hand are like little arms that reach out and “hug” pots and pans on the burners. They are attached to rails and are often adjustable and can slide to accommodate different positions and different sized pots and pans. If you are going to be cooking on a galley stove – gimballed or not – both pot restraints (or pot clamps) and fiddles are, in my world, absolute musts.

When Cooking with a Gimbal Stove -- Practice, Practice, and More Practice

If you turn your nose up at sandwiches for dinner or you’re a gourmet chef at home and want to take that passion underway for the culinary enjoyment of family and guests, my best piece of advice is to practice cooking on a gimbal stove Every Chance You Get. Start small. Start slow. Start low. Start thick.

Start slowly by doing your cook-be-nimble gimbal-practice sessions on very light wind days when it’s flat as can be. That will help you get experienced with the speed of both the swing of the stove and the slosh rate within the pot. Starting slow and steady gives you the ability to watch and learn how a gimbaled stove compares and contrasts with the fixed ones you’ve used all your life until now. If it’s really flat out there, give the stove a few pushes to get it swinging and re-create a more action-oriented scenario.

Start small by only working with one burner at first – learning how to counterbalance with another pot or kettle filled with a comparable weight of liquid. Remember balance – like balancing scales or a seesaw. Start low by filling your pot no more than 20-30%. Push the unlatched stove on its axis, making it gently rock and watch the contents of the pot slosh about – you’ll be surprised at how much movement there is. You’ll gain an appreciation for what it might be like if it wasn’t so flat and if the pot was filled to 50% or more. (And take note for the future to cook with the deepest pots practical and fill them to the lowest point that’s practical every time you cook.) High pot sides and low content levels are a good combo for cooking pots on a boat.

Start thick by cooking more dense food options. This goes for the burners as well as the oven. Preparing oatmeal is easier for a gimbal-stove newbie than preparing spaghetti because of the liquid to solid ratio. When possible, steer toward more solids – for example, I’d go with stew over vegetable soup. One is just denser so less likely to slosh and gain energy for splashing and crashing. In the oven, start by bringing frozen casseroles on board and reheating them. It may sound mundane but you’ll be learning the movement of the gimbal with less room for error. Baking cookies is a lot safer than a flourless chocolate cake that requires the cake pan to sit on a water bath, and if someone turns up their nose at warm cookies right out of the oven, politely suggest that they step overboard.

Cooking on a gimballed stove is not for the faint of heart. It does, I believe, require a bit of courage, lots of common sense, catlike reflexes, and, ideally, an almost intuitive sense of physics. But come to think of it, all those traits make a good sailor a great sailor, even if he or she never lays a finger in the galley. So, remember, practice, practice, and more practice will help get you nimble with the gimbal – and, after a while, the whole crew will be raising a toast to the chef while dining on French onion soup and flourless chocolate cake! Bon appetit!

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Elizabeth has sailed Sunfish, Catalinas, Knarrs, and countless other boats. Forty years later, she finds herself back on the waters of Bogue Sound, where she lives and sails with her daughter, Morgan, and chocolate lab, Choco.

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The Boat Galley

making boat life better

Things to Consider When Buying a Boat Stove

Published on November 18, 2013 ; last updated on May 1, 2023 by Carolyn Shearlock

A few weeks ago, I wrote a post about how many of the boats on display at the Annapolis Sailboat Show had small 2-burner stoves and while that may not be much of a problem when cooking on top of the stove, it also made for a small oven.

In the very lively discussions that ensued on Facebook and in the comments, I heard a number of different things relating to stove choice and wanted to gather them here — and possibly add more via Facebook and additional comments.

Not All 3-Burner Stoves Are Large

Over and over, people commented about the burners being so close together that it was impossible to actually fit three pans on the stove — more than a few even had problems with 2!

In researching this further, I believe that my Force 10 stove was a 3-burner “American standard” size — and that’s the largest size for the three burner stoves. I never had a problem with using three pans and didn’t realize that some of the 3-burner stoves were so small. But yes, they are.

If you are looking at stoves in person, I’d suggest taking along at least one of your larger pans. By placing it on a burner, you can very quickly see how it will or won’t infringe on using the other burners.

If you are looking at stoves online, it can be VERY hard to find detailed info on burner layout. I spent over an hour looking at several manufacturers’ web sites and found none. I could find all sorts of overall dimensions and information for installing, but none showing dimensions of the burners and space between.

Nonetheless, it’s probably one of the most important factors in how happy you’ll be with the stove, and I agree with several readers who felt that there was no point in having three burners if you could never use more than one!

Burner BTUs

“BTU” stands for British Thermal Unit and is a measurement of how much heat something puts out. Higher numbers mean more heat. (Note: BTUs are used for propane, CNG and alcohol stoves; watts are used for electrical stoves — same concept.)

In general — and there are no hard-and-fast rules on this — you need about 7,000 BTUs to saute effectively (brown meats, stir fry) or boil a pot of water with any speed. If you plan to use an Omnia Stove Top Oven, you’re going to need a burner with close to this heat in order to preheat the oven properly.

Many different brands of marine stove have one or more burners with 8,000 to 9,000 BTUs (and sometimes more). That’s great for fast cooking, but not so great for slow simmering. These burners are almost impossible to turn down to a nice low setting — they go out first.

I had this problem and got what’s called a “flame tamer”  (Amazon) to keep from burning everything I made. They cost about $7 — the cheapies work just as well as the really expensive ones.

The better way is to have at least one burner with lower BTUs — what many companies call a simmer burner. These are typically 3,000 to 5,000 BTUs.

When you look at a stove, the larger burners typically have higher BTUs and the smaller ones have lower. Some manufacturers/models have all burners the same size and usually (but not always, as nothing is “standard”) that means they have the same BTUs.

The good news is that the spec sheets from every manufacturer that I checked did list the BTUs for the individual burners, often saying something like “one 9200 BTU burner and two 3400 BTU burners.”

My personal preference would be to have at least one higher BTU burner and one lower, but you know how you cook.

Broiler or Not

Many marine ovens come standard with a broiler, but some brands make models with and without. I’m betting that a lot of readers are asking why they’d ever use a broiler. How about if I said I used it almost every day?

We didn’t have a toaster and my preferred method of making toast was under the broiler — very quick and easy. Admittedly, there are other ways of making toast on a boat ( read here and here ), but given a choice I’d prefer to have a broiler and do it that way.

As a side note, the tiny house we bought when we moved back ashore has the only “land” oven I’ve ever seen without a broiler. Not a broiler that doesn’t work, but never had one (the things the builder did to save $10 are legend). Two or three times a year I really wish I had one — not often enough to buy a new stove, but often enough to kind of wish the old one would die and I’d have a reason to get a new one. Of course, this means that it will work flawlessly for another 40 years.

It’s important that you can latch the oven door shut, so that movement of the boat doesn’t allow it to suddenly pop open. It’s bad enough if the oven isn’t on and no one is standing in front of the door, somewhat more annoying if pans that are stored in the oven slide out, and downright dangerous if the oven is one and someone is hit first with the hot door and then by a pan of hot food. If it does not come with a latch, you’ll have to figure something out (some tie the oven handle to a grab bar in front of the oven but admit that it’s a pain to tie/untie all the time).

The second really nice feature on an oven door is what’s called a “slide away” door. As the door opens, it slides under the oven. This is a very nice feature for two reasons: the cook doesn’t have to lean over a hot door to put food in the oven, look at it, or take it out (a huge safety consideration considering that it’s easy to just slightly lose your balance on a boat) and when the oven is open, it’s still balanced — if you’re using the gimbals, opening the door otherwise changes the balance and the stove will tip towards the cook.

Enamel Oven

More than one person has commented that they like Princess Seaward ovens because they are porcelain enamel-lined as opposed to stainless, and thus hold heat better. I haven’t used one to have a personal opinion, but it seems reasonable that dark enamel would be better (it’s used on most home ovens); I don’t know if any other brands have this feature. Most boat ovens that I have seen are stainless — or at least that’s what I remember.

Ignition Systems

Many companies make a big deal about the fact that they have some sort of lighter built into the burners and oven. Most people that I know find that these fail frequently and, while they can be fixed, decide that it’s simply easier to keep a long-nosed butane lighter near the stove and light it the old-fashioned way. I wouldn’t choose one stove over another because of this feature.

Other Resources

Our first cruising boat came with a Force 10 3-burner stove and we never had a problem with it in the coastal cruising that we did. However, there are anecdotal reports of several failures of mounting and gimbal hardware in rough seas. If you are considering a Force 10 stove (or have one on your boat) and are planning blue water voyaging, please read this article — and the comments below it — on Attainable Adventure Cruising .

And check out our other courses and products

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Reader Interactions

Maryanne Grady says

November 18, 2013 at 6:46 pm

If only my galley was this wonderful!!!

The Boat Galley says

November 18, 2013 at 11:22 pm

It’s one I saw at a boat show . . .

Judith Adams says

November 19, 2013 at 7:31 am

i love to pick you brain. I learn things I didn’t know I needed to know…thanks for BTU clarification, we don.t want to waste our propane. Anything that uses boiling water, I have found it best done in teakettle, transfer to another pan with ingredients, close the lid and let it sit it nearly cooks itself w/no added heat. Thanks Carolyn!!! I talk to many boaters and recommend you to all.

Carolyn Shearlock says

November 19, 2013 at 3:37 pm

Michelle Rene says

December 14, 2014 at 3:53 pm

Thank you so much for always posting the right info at the right time

The Sea and Sailors says

December 14, 2014 at 7:36 pm

Nice kitchen!!!

April 7, 2016 at 1:40 pm

Any info on electric cook tops or stove(s) ? The only electric stove I see available in US is the Force 10 at about $1500. Anyone had experience with these ? Thanks

April 7, 2016 at 2:51 pm

I don’t have much experience with electric stoves on boats. I’ve only known one person with one, and she got rid of it after about a year as it just took too much power. Others that I’ve known with them had single burner units (either a hot plate or an induction burner) and only used them when they were in a marina. With luck, someone else may have some experience and reply!

April 7, 2016 at 3:27 pm

Carolyn, Many thanks for your quick reply. My generator died last summer, replacing with smaller 5kw this month. Moody Cabineerror 1971, U.K. built. I’m thinking an electric stove would draw too much as well. May try rebuilding my propane system,,hasn’t been used in many years. Psychological. Great website ! Rich

Karin Fumagalli says

April 19, 2017 at 1:54 am

Did anybody ever heard about the Alpes Inox nautical stove from Italy? I have not heard good things about the Force 10 and it seems like there is not really good options here in the US but I hate to spend money on shipping but I do love to have an oven that works.

Thank you for any help or suggestions. Karin

RJ Bowen says

April 19, 2017 at 7:16 pm

Try Google “DOM Showrooms North America” in NYC. They may not have marine model though. Alpes brand appears popular for high end apartments/condos. I did read some posts from years ago on Cruisers Forum about difficulty getting repair parts.

Dave Skolnick (S/V Auspicious) says

December 11, 2020 at 11:24 am

Induction cooking is becoming increasingly popular on boats. Time for another update. *grin* Let me know if I can help.

Personally I think any flavor of electric cooking on a boat is a stunningly bad idea. The advocates however are rabid on the concept.

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Cooking on an Electric Sailboat

Live off the grid!” That’s part of the allure of getting an electric boat and using solar, wind and hydroregeneration to power everything on board. No more diesel engine, no more propane stove, completely disconnect. Completely off-grid.

However, as Lee Corso on ESPN’s College Game Day says, “Not so fast my friend!” That’s because there is no electric cooking system today that is viable on a pure electric boat .

So, with the help of a few other sailors who between them and I have sailed over 50,000 miles on electric boats and spent years living onboard, Green Yachts put together this blog post about cooking on an electric boat.

And, the exciting part is an idea we have at the end of this blog.

First, an overview of today’s options for cooking on an electric boat:

LPG (Propane)/Butane - Most recreational boats today use a stove fueled by propane if used in the United States or butane in Europe. With two tanks, it provides a ~20-day supply of fuel for cooking. There are a plethora of different bottle sizes and adapter fittings meaning a boater traveling around the world has to get different gas containers that may or may not fit in a boat’s propane locker. And, a boat needs the propane locker to be located in the cockpit, be vented to the exterior, drain and have a solenoid operated from the galley that shuts off the gas flow at the regulator because propane is heavier than air and thus sinks, can collect in the cabin and if ignited, will create an explosion onboard. 

Induction cooktops and microwave ovens – an induction cooker or other electric stove is the safest stove one can have on board because there are no fuels or open fires onboard. Electric stoves are common on large boats that have a robust AC power system supplied by one or more marine generators. On sailboats and other recreational boats, an induction cooktop and microwave oven should only be used on an electric boat with a marine generator because they are energy intensive! A tale of two different boats illustrates this. Derek Rupe, an early pioneer in electric propulsion, has a gimballed induction cooktop and microwave oven on his Tripp 37 sailboat that he has been living on, cooking on and taking up and down the east coast of the US for years. His boat has a DC marine generator onboard, which makes an energy intensive induction cooker viable. Jimmy Cornell put an induction cooker and microwave onboard without a DC marine generator and had to turn back from his planned around the world trip shortly after getting started . In our opinion at Green Yachts, the #1 reason for this unfortunate outcome was that the induction cooker and microwave drew far more power than hydroregeneration under sail could provide.

Alcohol Stove –  An alcohol stove is the primary means of cooking onboard for both Sailing Uma and the Rigging Doctor , both of which are electric sailboats that have crossed the Atlantic . Sailing Uma also has a rice cooker and microwave that they use “sparingly” and mostly when plugged in to shore power.  Modern alcohol stoves store fuel in an absorbent material rather than under pressure like older alcohol stoves from the 70s and 80s, Like any fuel, alcohol has to be resupplied in port.

CNG (Compressed Natural Gas) – Also found on older boats and on boats from southern California. Natural gas is lighter than air so it dissipates instead of collecting like propane and it is burns cooler than propane and thus is less explosive but since when does the word less making explosive sound any better on a boat? On the plus side, burning natural gas creates 50-60% less emissions than burning propane. Like for alcohol stoves and LPG, CNG has to be resupplied in port.

Future Innovation in Marine Cooking?

In our opinion at Green Yachts, while all of the above are viable depending on your boat setup, none of them are a slam dunk solution on an electric boat. All of them have their pros and cons. We believe the future of cooking on electric boats will look different than any cooking system we know of on boats today.

Two technologies we think have a lot of promise are solar cookers and pressure cookers. Both of these use different strategies that result in highly efficient cooking. We also like the idea of a multipurpose cooking station that is convenient and easy to clean.

Here’s an example of a solar cooker that is perfect for a picnic, a 12V pressure cooker that works great on an RV , a nd lastly, a multipurpose cooking station from the tiny homes movement. 

Imagine if you could combine these three into a marine cooking system that:

• Adds a slot in the multipurpose cooker for a solar cooker in which the solar cooker plugged in when slid into place.
• The multipurpose cooker also incorporates a 12V pressure cooker providing a secure location for it rather than it being at risk of flying off the galley counter. These two additions add highly efficient cooking that doesn’t use a lot of power.
• Make the coffee maker, griddle and toaster oven efficient and like the solar cooker and pressure cooker powered by 12V or 48V DC power. Currently, the multipurpose cooker is designed for an AC system in a land-based home.
• Create a complimentary station in the cockpit where the solar cooker can be put when pulled out of its slot in the galley and secured with the solar screens open for cooking so the solar cooker doesn’t go flying or the solar reflector screens don’t close or get damaged when the boat tacks or heels. And, this cockpit station needs to not be in the way when not in use for cooking.
• Make sure everything can be washed in salt water without rusting
• Gimbal it of course!

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Do you use the oven?

• Thread starter rsn48
• Start date Jun 18, 2005
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I am debating taking out the two burner propane stove and adding a Force 10, small two burner stove and oven. The more I think about it, the more I wonder how often the oven will be used. I can see the use of the oven for backing some breads, muffins, etd. but how many sit down for the evening "roast" I wonder?So my question is: How often do you use your oven when weekending or cruising for a week or two?  

Better as storage Unless you are a fan of evening fresh baked cookies, the oven is used primarily as a storage place for larger pots and pans. We fire up the oven very rarely. We have learned to cook without an oven and eat very well. Also remember that many ovens on boats do not have a thermostat and require careful adjustments to get the proper temperature. Some force 10 models do have thermostats, but you have to ask and they are more expensive. Overall, I would be just fine without my oven and have used the microwave more than anything.Rick  

ovens are good If you are out for more than a day or two take a frozen chicken or make a pizza good food allways keeps the crew happy especially on those cold damp nights. i had a force 10 on my last boat it worked like a charm  

When you need it... We use our oven mostly for storing pots & pans too. When we have a racing crew of eight or nine on board for an overnight or two, hot lasagna from the oven (straight out of BJ's freezer) hits the spot and gives our boat high marks for the best food in the fleet. It works even in rough weather, since the door latches shut: you don't have to worry about launching supper accross the cabin or out the hatch. In the Caribbean or down South, a BBQ might be better, to keep things cooler below. I'm glad for the flexibility our oven gives us, though.  

Use it regularly I use mine regularly. For use while underway, I have prepared food, I can turn it on, pop an all-in-one meal in, and go back on watch. 1/2 hour later, dinner is served - no fuss. It's the asiest possible way to cook.  

Depends on how you use the boat Depends on your lifestyle. It's a personal choice. We use ours all the time and all three burners too. Nothing like a turkey at Thanksgiving and Christmas and when we cruise up here in October when it's a bit cooler ( sometimes in June too) it's nice to have something in the oven warming everything up. Again it's really up to you. Many people eat out most of the time when they cruise on vacation. In that case there's really no need for an oven. I don't know the price differential is but it might be worth it just for the storage.  

Hot bread on a cold watch... nothing beats that!  

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10 Best Used Cruising Sailboats

• By John Kretschmer
• Updated: June 4, 2021

The appeal of offshore voyaging is difficult to explain to land people who can’t imagine life without basic human rights like copious quantities of hot water and unlimited data. It can even be challenging to explain to fellow sailors who think the notion of spending days or weeks at sea is a form of water­boarding, some kind of self-inflicted torture.

But for those of us who understand, who relish intimacy with the untamed wilderness that is the ocean and embrace self-­reliance and individual expression while accepting the ­dispassionate whims of Neptune, this is the good life.

There are two essential truths about this life: One, money does not matter. Cruising budgets and lifestyles reflect bank accounts with variously positioned commas; it’s the passages and landfalls that add up, not your investment portfolio. And two, a good bluewater sailboat — not necessarily an expensive boat, but a well-­designed, solidly built, imminently seaworthy boat that is only limited by your moxie and imagination — is the key to successful bluewater passagemaking.

So, to that second point, I’ve compiled a list of interesting and affordable cruising sailboats for serious voyaging. A list of 10 sailboats for any purpose, much less world cruising, is sure to evoke outrage from strong-minded sailors, who by nature tend to be a bit opinionated. Stand by before hurling insults my way, and let me explain. I have decided to stay away from the sailboats we know by heart, the iconic old boats that usually populate a list like this: the Westsail 32, Tayana 37, Shannon 38 and Valiant 40 (the last of which, with a bit of searching, can still be found at or just below $100,000).

My list of some of the best liveaboard sailboats is eclectic and includes a mix of well-known and obscure manufacturers, but all the boats are linked in three ways: All are top-quality vessels capable of crossing oceans. They’re affordable, although in a few cases you have to look for older models in less-than-stellar condition to stay below $100,000. Indeed, in some ways, this list of used sailboats is a function of age; most of the boats were priced at more than $100,000 when new but have dipped below our self-imposed threshold in middle age. And finally, they’re all boats that I have encountered in the past few years in far-flung cruising destinations .

Island Packet 35

Love them or loathe them, Island Packets are everywhere. To some, the beamy, full-keel, high-freeboard hull designs seem quaint, to put it charitably. To others, the robust construction standards, roomy interiors and overall user-friendliness make them the ideal cruising boat. More than most, sailing vessels are compromises, and Bob Johnson and his crew at Island Packet were brilliant in prioritizing the needs of sailors. The IP 35 was introduced in 1988 and features a huge cockpit, an easy-to-handle cutter rig with a jib boom, and a clever, comfortable interior with the volume of many 40-footers. It might not be the fastest boat upwind, but the long waterline translates to good performance off the breeze, meaning the IP 35 finds its stride in the trade winds. In all, 188 boats were built before production stopped in 1994.

Don’t confuse the IP 35 with the IP 350, which was launched in 1997 and included a stern swim step. You won’t find a 350 for less than $100,000, but you will have a choice among 35s, especially those built before 1990. With two nice staterooms, the 35 is ideal for family cruising. I know of a couple of 35s that have completed the classic Atlantic Circle passage. It’s perfect for a sabbatical cruise because it holds its value and there’s a ready market when it comes time to sell.

Prout Snowgoose 37

There’s no room for discussion: Catamarans are crossing oceans, and many sailors are choosing cats for world cruising. My last visits to the Azores and Canary Islands, the classic Atlantic waypoints, proved the point. I’m not much of a statistician, but by my count, at least a quarter and maybe a third of the boats I saw were catamarans. There would be more on this list, but they are just too expensive. Finding a quality catamaran for less than $100,000 is tough. One boat to consider is the classic workhorse multihull, the Prout Snowgoose 37.

When the Snowgoose 37 was launched in 1983, English builder Prout & Sons had already been in business for nearly 50 years. The 37 was an updated version of the Snowgoose 35, one of the most successful cruising cats ever. In 1986, the 37 was updated again; the Snowgoose Elite model included more beam and interior upgrades. These models are challenging to find for under $100,000, but it’s possible. A quick glance at yachtworld.com shows several of both models available for less than $100,000. Again, the strong dollar makes European boats an excellent value.

The Snowgoose 37 is not sexy like go-fast cats, and not roomy like modern cruising cats. It is, however, seaworthy. Of the 500 built, many have circumnavigated. Older boats have solid fiberglass hulls, and more recent models are solid glass from the waterline down and cored above. The cockpit is rather compact by catamaran standards, and the bridgedeck is solid (no tramp). Many 37s and all Elites were rigged with staysails, a big plus in heavy weather. The masthead-­rigged Snowgoose 37 can be sailed like a monohull offshore, and it’s quite nice not having a huge, roachy mainsail to wrestle with in a storm. With a 15-foot-3-inch beam for the 37 and a 16-foot-3-inch beam for the Elite, it’s easy to find affordable dockage and yards for haulouts. Most boats have three double cabins, making the Snowgoose 37 an ideal family cruiser.

The Corbin 39 is not as well known as it should be. It’s a capable bluewater sailboat cruiser with many impressive voyages logged. My Quetzal spent several weeks moored alongside a handsome 39 in Corfu that had sailed around the world, and I also spent a winter in Malta in the same boatyard as another 39 that had recently crossed the Atlantic. A canoe-stern, flush-deck pilothouse cutter, the 39 was offered with either an aft or center cockpit. Designed by Michael Dufour and constructed by Corbin les Bateaux in Canada, hull number one was launched in 1977. Built in various locations in Quebec, 129 boats were launched before a fire destroyed the deck tooling in 1982. A new deck with a larger cockpit was designed, and 70 more boats were laid up before production ceased in 1990.

The rub on the Corbin 39 is that the majority of boats were sold as kits with owner-­finished interiors. Kits varied from just hull-and-deck to “sailaway,” with everything fitted except the interior. Only 15 boats were finished at the factory. Not surprisingly, the interior quality is unpredictable, from rough-hewn lumberyard specials to beautifully handcrafted gems finished by marine professionals. The difference is reflected in the price. A nicely finished, well-equipped model from the mid-’80s typically sells for between $60,000 and $80,000.

The hull shape features a long fin keel and skeg-mounted rudder. The hulls are heavily laid up and include Airex coring. Early decks were plywood-cored, but most boats have Airex in the deck as well. Ballast is 9,000 pounds of internal lead, translating to a 40 percent ballast-to-displacement ratio. The wide flush deck is spacious, and the sleek pilothouse usually includes inside steering. Massive double anchor rollers are incorporated into the bowsprit in later models. Most boats include a double-­spreader spar, and almost all were set up as cutters. There’s plenty of freeboard, which becomes obvious below. While interior arrangements vary considerably, there’s a lot of room to work with. I prefer the post-1982 aft-cockpit 39s; they’re generally of a higher quality than earlier boats.

Cabo Rico 38

“The Cabo Rico 38 hull shape is the one in which everything came together best,” wrote Bill Crealock in his design notes. He might have changed his mind later in life, considering that the Cabo Rico was introduced in 1977 and he designed many boats after that, but few will dispute that this 38-foot cutter, built in Costa Rica, is flat-out beautiful. From the clipper bow to the sweet sheer to the abundance of honey-colored teak, the Cabo Rico 38 is a boat to inspire the most practical among us to quit their job, buy this vessel, and head for the South Pacific.

Not surprisingly, many people have done just that. Cabo Rico built 200 full-keeled 38s, with most of the production occurring in the 1980s. There’s always a selection of boats for sale for less than $100,000. Cabo Rico was an outlier among manufacturers of the time, building serious cruising boats in Central America instead of Taiwan, but quality control was always excellent. The full keel is slightly cutaway, and the rudder is attached to the trailing edge. The prop is in an aperture and totally protected, but not well suited to backing into a slip. Full-keel boats may make some younger sailors cringe, but the CR 38 has a very soft ride in rough seas and heaves to effectively. It also has a solid fiberglass hull with a layer of balsa for insulation. Sometimes it’s noted that the hull is balsa-cored, but it’s not. After about hull number 40, lead was used instead of iron for internal ballast. The deck is balsa-cored, however, and there’s a substantial bulwark. Items to be wary of are the teak decks (most 38s have them) and the fittings supporting the bobstay.

A true cutter rig, the 38 has just under 1,000 square feet of working sail area and performs better than most people suspect. The staysail was originally set on a boom that cluttered the foredeck and limited sail shape. Many boats have been converted with furling staysails sans the boom — a nice upgrade. When the wind pipes up, the 38 tracks nicely with a reefed main and staysail. I encounter 38s all over the Caribbean. They’re easy to spot; they’re the beautiful boats in the anchorage.

Tayana Vancouver 42

Ta Yang, builder of Tayana sailboats, has been building capable cruising boats forever, it seems. The Robert Harris-designed Tayana Vancouver 42 has been a mainstay of the serious cruising fleet since the day it was launched in 1979, and is still in demand today. The company built 200 boats, mostly in the ’80s and early ’90s, although a few V42s were built into the 2000s. With a bit of digging and some haggling, you can find boats for less than $100,000, but they’re likely to be older models. As of this writing, yachtworld.com has eight V42s listed, with three asking less than $100,000.

I’ve encountered the V42 all over the world, and in my yacht-delivery days, I had the pleasure of delivering a couple of 42s up the East Coast and down to the Caribbean. The double-ended hull shape with a fin-skeg underbody is stiff and seaworthy, if not wickedly fast. Considering the rugged construction, with a solid fiberglass hull and balsa-cored deck, nobody has ever accused Ta Yang of going light on its boats. Ballast is internal iron, a massive single casting that weighs in at 11,800 pounds. Ta Yang has evolved as a builder, and later models included upgrades like vinylester resin and larger Yanmar diesels.

A true cutter, the V42 has a double-spreader rig and is heavily stayed. The seagoing deck is cambered to shed water. Teak decks, with all their virtues and vices, were common; I’d look for a boat that’s been de-teaked. Like the Corbin 39, the V42 came with either a center or aft cockpit, although most boats were aft-cockpit models. The aft cockpit is deep and secure, if a bit tight due to volume sacrificed by the canoe stern. The center cockpit is cramped but offers excellent visibility. The interior is lovely, with exquisite Taiwanese joinery. Although interior arrangements vary because Ta Yang encouraged owner input, across the board, this is a friendly boat for living aboard. The aft-cockpit model includes one head and a traditional layout with excellent light and ventilation. The center-­cockpit model features a large owner’s stateroom aft.

Wauquiez Pretorien 35

The Pretorien 35 does not pay homage to tradition. The Euro-style low-slung wedge deck and flattish lines were thoroughly modern when the Pretorien was launched in 1979. Sure, there are IOR influences in this well-proven Holman & Pye design, including a slightly pinched stern, cramped cockpit, and a high-aspect, short-boom mainsail that results in a large fore­triangle. But a small main is easy to handle offshore, especially in squally conditions, and a large poled-out furling genoa provides a low-stress way to cross oceans. The test of a design is revealed long after the launch, and the Pretorien has aged brilliantly. It’s often mistaken for a Swan or Baltic. Famed voyager and author Hal Roth chose a Pretorien for his last boat.

Below the water, which is what really matters at sea, the Pretorien pushes the right buttons for serious sailing. A fine entry provides enough of a forefoot to prevent pounding in lumpy conditions, and as on the Valiant 40, the fin keel incorporates a stub to which the external ballast is fastened. The rudder is mounted well aft for excellent steering control, especially on a deep reach, and is tucked behind a narrow but full-length skeg. The Pretorien displaces 13,000 pounds, of which 6,000 pounds is ballast, translating to a stiff, seakindly boat.

The construction is superb. The solid fiberglass hull includes longitudinal stringers that stiffen the panels and encapsulate the bulkheads. Tabbing and fiberglass work is first-rate throughout. Wauquiez was one of the first builders to use solid laminate beneath high-load deck fittings. The side decks are wide and, with the chainplates well inboard, easy to navigate. The interior arrangement is conventional, but ample beam amidships helps create a surprisingly spacious feel below.

There were 212 Pretoriens built during a seven-year production run, so there’s usually a good selection of boats on the used market. Today’s strong dollar makes European Pretoriens an excellent value.

Gulfstar 44

Gulfstar had a terrible reputation in the early ’70s: It was infamous for producing wide-body motorsailers with tiny rigs and chintzy Formica interiors. Company founder Vince Lazzara was adept at reading market trends and upped his game in the late ’70s and ’80s. Lazzara, who also founded Columbia Yachts, was a veteran of the production-­sailboat wars and realized that buyers were demanding high-quality boats that sailed well. The Gulfstar 44 was launched in 1978, and 105 were sold before the company started producing the Hirsh 45 in 1985.

Some mistake the G44 for a Bristol, and it has a similar profile, right down to the teak toerail and raked cabin trunk. A sleek center-­cockpit design, the hull shape features a 5-foot-6-inch fin keel, a skeg-hung rudder and moderate proportions. I know the boat well, having delivered one from Bermuda to Annapolis and another from Fort Lauderdale to Boston. It has a nice ride in lumpy seas and powers up when the big genoa is drawing on a reach. The construction is typical of the time, with solid fiberglass hulls and cored decks. Gulfstars were known to blister, and it’s likely that any 44 you find will have had an epoxy bottom job along the way — and if it hasn’t, it will need one. The keel-stepped spar has an air draft of 55 feet. Some owners have modified the sloop rig with a staysail. The cockpit is roomy, especially for a center-cockpit design, although there’s not much of a bridgedeck. All sail controls are led aft. Lazzara was an early proponent of this feature, and the boat is user-friendly overall.

The interior sells the boat. It’s nicely finished in teak, and the layout is made for living aboard. The aft cabin includes an enormous double berth with an en suite head and stall shower. The main saloon is spacious and well ventilated, although beware of the plastic opening portlights. If you are looking for a comfortable, well-built center-cockpit cruiser but can’t find one that you can afford, track down a Gulfstar 44; you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Any list of bluewater cruising sailboats must include a Robert Perry design. I could have easily put together nine Perry boats for this list. The Nordic 40 may surprise some, especially because 40 feet is an iconic length, bringing to mind such boats as the Valiant 40, Hinckley Bermuda 40, Bristol 40, Pacific Seacraft 40, Passport 40 and others. The trick is finding a 40-footer for less than $100,000. Nonetheless, the Nordic 40 and its larger sister ship, the 44, are among my favorite boats.

Based in Bellingham, Washington, Nordic produced world-class yachts during its brief production run in the 1980s. Only 40 Nordic 40s were launched between 1982 and 1987, but they’re worth seeking out on the used-boat market. The 40 features the classic double-ended Perry hull shape, with a fine entry, a deep and powerful fin keel, a skeg-mounted rudder positioned well aft, and a reverse transom. Freeboard is moderate and the sheer line is subtle, but to my eye, with its double-spreader rig and gently sloping deck line, the boat is poetry in the water.

The hull is solid fiberglass and the deck is balsa-cored, with solid laminates below loaded-up deck fittings. Original boats came with Navtec rod rigging and a hydraulic backstay, but many have been upgraded by now. Sail-control lines are led aft to the compact but functional T-shaped cockpit. The traveler is forward of the companionway, allowing for a cockpit dodger. The Nordic 40 is nimble in light to moderate breeze but can also stand up in a blow and heave to decently.

The interior is well suited to a cruising couple. It’s really a two-person boat, with a V-berth forward and large C-shaped galley aft, with plenty of counter space and a huge fridge. It includes the normal deft Perry touches — excellent sea berths, a separate stall shower and generous tankage. If you do find a Nordic 40 on the used market, be sure to take a hard look at the Westerbeke diesel and the V-drive transmission.

Pacific Seacraft 34

A handsome, nimble and capable double-ender by legendary designer Bill Crealock, the Pacific Seacraft 34 is well proven, with scores of ocean crossings in its wake.

After the boat was first launched as the Crealock 34 in 1979, Pacific Seacraft introduced a fifth model years later, a scaled-down version of the popular PS 37. Though expensive at the time, the 34 was another success story for one of America’s premier builders, and hundreds of boats were built in the company’s yard in Santa Ana, California. There is always a good selection of used boats available for less than $100,000. Another nice perk for used-boat buyers is that the 34 is back in production at the reincarnated Pacific Seacraft yard in Washington, North Carolina, providing an outlet for parts and advice. The company is now owned and operated by marine archaeologist Stephen Brodie and his father, Reid.

The 34 blends traditional values above the waterline with what was then a more modern underbody, with a long fin keel and skeg-hung rudder. A bit hefty at 13,500 pounds of displacement, the design otherwise is a study in moderation, and drawn with a keen eye toward providing a soft ride in a seaway and staying on good terms with Neptune in a blow.

The hull is solid fiberglass, and early decks were plywood-­cored before Pacific switched to end-grain balsa. The hull-to-deck joint incorporates a molded bulwark that offers added security when you’re moving about on deck, and a vertical surface for mounting stanchions.

Most 34s are cutter-rigged for versatility but carry moderate-­size genoas instead of high-cut yankees for more horsepower off the wind. Down below, the layout is traditional, but the 6-foot-4-inch headroom is a pleasant surprise. The Pacific Seacraft 34 is perfect for a cruising couple.

John Kretschmer is a delivery captain, adventurer and writer, whose own boat Quetzal , a 1987 Kaufman 47, has seen a refit or two over the years. His latest book is Sailing a Serious Ocean: Sailboats, Storms, Stories and Lessons Learned from 30 Years at Sea , also available on his website .

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A young girl died in France after a boat capsized on the English Channel crossing migrant route

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A young girl died after a boat capsized on the treacherous English Channel crossing route used by migrants hoping to reach Britain, French authorities said Sunday.

A statement from the prefecture responsible for the north of France said a small boat carrying 16 people capsized off the coast of the northern port city of Dunkirk on Sunday morning.

The vessel was too small for the number of passengers, authorities said. A couple with four children were among the passengers when it capsized.

“The couple’s young daughter, aged 7, died from drowning,” the statement said. The girl’s father and her pregnant mother were rescued and taken to a hospital along with her three siblings, the statement also said.

Another couple, two men and six young children were also rescued and taken to a hospital with minor injuries, the statement said.

On Wednesday, three people died during an attempt to cross the English Channel from France.

In a statement, the maritime authorities overseeing French waters in the channel said about 180 people were assisted Wednesday in four rescue operations coordinated by the French side.

An estimated 30,000 people made the crossing in 2023, according to UK government figures released at the start of 2024.

Follow AP’s coverage of global migration at https://apnews.com/hub/migration

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A young girl died in France after a boat capsized on the English Channel crossing migrant route

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PARIS (AP) —

A young girl died after a boat capsized on the treacherous English Channel crossing route used by migrants hoping to reach Britain, French authorities said Sunday.

A statement from the prefecture responsible for the north of France said a small boat carrying 16 people capsized off the coast of the northern port city of Dunkirk on Sunday morning.

The vessel was too small for the number of passengers, authorities said. A couple with four children were among the passengers when it capsized.

“The couple’s young daughter, aged 7, died from drowning,” the statement said. The girl’s father and her pregnant mother were rescued and taken to a hospital along with her three siblings, the statement also said.

Another couple, two men and six young children were also rescued and taken to a hospital with minor injuries, the statement said.

On Wednesday, three people died during an attempt to cross the English Channel from France.

In a statement, the maritime authorities overseeing French waters in the channel said about 180 people were assisted Wednesday in four rescue operations coordinated by the French side.

An estimated 30,000 people made the crossing in 2023, according to UK government figures released at the start of 2024.

Follow AP’s coverage of global migration at https://apnews.com/hub/migration

Meet Ukraine’s small but lethal weapon lifting morale: unmanned sea drones packed with explosives

Uncrewed, remote-controlled boats have been around since the end of World War II. Late last century, technological innovations broadened their potential uses.

Lethal, advanced sea drones developed and deployed by Ukraine in its war with Russia have opened a new chapter in that story.

Ukraine claims it is the first country to set up a specific unit dedicated to producing them. Yemen-based Houthis have also deployed armed unmanned surface vessels as suicide drone boats that explode upon impact.

The 2-year-old Ukraine conflict has become a laboratory for new military technology, and naval drones are set to become an essential part of the combat toolbox in 21st-century warfare.

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What are sea drones?

Unmanned vessels — also called drone boats or maritime drones — have had a broad range of applications for years. They have been employed for scientific research, search and rescue operations, surveillance and coastal patrols.

Ukraine has loaded them with explosives. The sleek vessels speed across the water’s surface, trailing a wake of white foam, and have a low radar signature that makes them hard to detect.

They are equipped with advanced GPS and cameras.

The Magura V5 sea drone that Ukraine says it used in the Black Sea on Tuesday appears to be Kyiv’s latest version. The craft wouldn’t look out of place in a James Bond movie.

The Magura is 5.5 meters (18 feet) long, weighs up to 1,000 kilograms (2,200 pounds), has a range of up to 800 kilometers (500 miles), 60 hours of battery life, and a 200-kilogram (440-pound) payload, according to Ukrainian authorities. It also beams live video to operators.

Another drone that is larger than the Madura, called Sea Baby, was shown to The Associated Press on Wednesday.

The latest Sea Baby model is capable of carrying 850 kilograms (1,900 pounds) of explosives, hits a top speed of 90 kph (56 mph) and can cover a distance of 1,000 kilometers (620 miles), according to Ukraine’s State Security Service.

How are sea drones being used in the Russia-Ukraine war?

The unmanned boats are being used to target Russian shipping and infrastructure in the Black Sea, which has Russian and Ukrainian coastlines.

Ukraine says the drones have sunk and damaged Russian ships there. That has helped Kyiv resume some grain exports.

Kyiv officials say some 20% of Russian missile attacks on Ukraine are launched from the Black Sea. The Ukrainian fleet lost 80% of its vessels after Russia’s occupation of Crimea in 2014, they say.

Ukrainian naval drones first struck a Russian ship in October 2022, the military claim, when they hit vessels moored off the coast of occupied Crimea.

Last July, Russia said two Ukrainian maritime drones hit the Kerch Bridge, a key supply route linking Russia to Crimea, forcing its temporary closure. Unconfirmed reports said a Sea Baby drone was used in that strike.

The following month, Ukrainian sea drones struck a Russian port and damaged a warship, officials said.

Being outgunned and outnumbered in the war against its bigger neighbor, Ukraine’s daring sea drone attacks have lifted morale.

Where is Ukraine getting the sea drones from?

Ukrainian know-how and ingenuity are behind the development of the new generation of sea drones.

They are locally designed and tested, but some components are sourced abroad.

United24, a government crowdfunding organization that elicits donations from companies and individuals worldwide, collects the funding.

Though the sea drones aren’t cheap — each Magura, for example, comes in at around $250,000 and the new model Sea Baby costs around $221,000 — they can damage or sink a ship worth hundreds of millions of dollars.

United24 says it is assembling the world’s first drone fleet.