arctic tern sailboat

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ARCTIC TERN Boat for Sale

42' island packet | 1997 | $190,000.

• Yachts for sale
• express cruisers
• island packet
• Arctic Tern

Last updated Feb 8, 2024

Arctic Tern Yacht | 42' Island Packet 1997

Are you ready to take on the ocean and don't want to spend the countless hours and dollars outfitting a vessel for blue-water cruising?

This Island Packet 40, “ARCTIC TERN” is turn-key and ready to set sail for anywhere in the world tomorrow. It's extremely rare to come across a vessel quite so meticulously taken care of and manicured to be a self sufficient cruising machine.

Arctic Tern is a fiberglass constructed, cutter rigged sailing vessel, designed for blue water and has recently completed a voyage to French Polynesia and back. She has a full keel, raked bow with bow pulpit, plumb wine glass shaped transom and the aluminum spar is keel-stepped.  Sporting a brand new 50 HP freshwater cooled turbocharged diesel amongst countless other new upgrades. This vessel has two staterooms and two heads, which provide comfortable accommodations for four, or seven including a convertible berth in salon and a salon settee.

The Island Packet 40 has established itself as an industry benchmark for high quality cruising sailboats. She is one of the most ideal cruising sailboats ever built. Thisclassic design combines stunning good looks, robust construction, sea-kindly motion, comfortable accommodations, shallow draft, and circumnavigation potential with a cutter rig that is easy for a couple to handle in all conditions. This vessel has been well looked after its entire life and is ready to once again take on the ocean.

Give us a call today!

Aloha!Hawaii Yacht Sales(808)943-2628Website: https://www.hawaiiyachtsales.comYou Tube: http://www.youtube.com/@hawaiiyachtsalesFacebook: https://web.facebook.com/hawaiiyachtsalesInstagram: http://www.instagram.com/hawaiiyachtsales/Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/hiyachtsales

Denison Yachting is pleased to assist you in the purchase of this vessel. This boat is centrally listed by Hawaii Yacht Sales.

Denison Yacht Sales offers the details of this yacht in good faith but can’t guarantee the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of this boat for sale. This yacht for sale is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal from that yacht market without notice. She is offered as a convenience by this yacht broker to its clients and is not intended to convey direct representation of a specific yacht for sale.

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Arctic Tern HIGHLIGHTS

• Yacht Details: 42' Island Packet 1997
• Location: Honolulu, HI
• Last Updated: Feb 8, 2024
• Asking Price: $190,000

Arctic Tern additional information

• Beam: 13'
• Hull Material: Fiberglass
• New 4 x Lithium 130 Amp Hour Bank Batteries w/ Internal BMS and Bluetooth
• New Odyssey AGM Engine Start Battery (charged by Dedicated Victron DC-DC charger from house bank)
• New Odyssey AGM DC Panel Battery (charged byVictron DC-DC charger from house bank)
• New VictronOrion 50 Amp Battery Charger
• New 510 Watts of Flexible Solar Panels on Biminiwith Victron MPPT.
• New 2000W Inverter with Remote Control and Display
• New Watt and Sea Cruise 300 Hydro Generator withMounting Brackets on Hydrovane 120VAC
• 30 Amp Shore Power 50ft
• Garmin GPSMAP 7608xsv (2018)
• B&G Triton Instruments (2018)
• GarminFantom 18x Radar
• New Garmin9-Axis Heading Sensor
• New Iridium Go! With External Antenna
• NewMasthead Tri-Color with Anchor and Flashing Light
• NewVesper Cortex VHF/AIS System with Handsets at Helm and Nav Desk
• Richie 6" Compass
• Simrad AutoPilot
• Hydrovane (2018)
• Dodger replaced (2018)
• Bimini replaced (2018)
• Stern Rails replaced (2018)
• Davits replaced (2018)
• New Maxwell VWC 1500 Windlass and Maxwell Chain stopper
• New Rocna 20 Anchor with 300 Feet of 5/16 G4 Chain
• Mantus15 KG Stern Anchor with Rode
• Titanium Chainplates (2018)
• Standing Rigging replaced (2018)
• Ultra Leather Upholstery for Settee and Mattresses replaced (2018)
• Sole in Saloon and Forward Birth replaced (2018)
• 12VDC interior lamps Throughout
• 12VDC Fans Throughout
• Frigoboat Capri 2 x Top loading Freezer/Refer Compressors and Cold plate (2018)
• Princess 3 Burner Propane Stove w/ Oven
• Double Stainless Steel Sink w/ Hot and Cold Pressurized Water
• New Rainman “Naked” DC Water Maker.  9 gpm
• 130 Gallon Polypropylene Water Tank (2018)
• Seaward 11-gallon Hot Water Heater 120 VAC or Heat Exchanger
• Potable Water Pump replaced (2018)
• 30 gal Black water Polypropylene holding tank replaced (2018)
• Hoses replaced (2018)
• 2x Manual Commodes
• 2x Showers w Auto Sump
• Viking4-Person Life Raft; Serviced in March of 2023. Current Cert
• 12 VDC electrical pump in the bilge sump
• Fixed Hand Operated Bilge
• Searchlight
• Portable Fire Extinguishers
• First Aid Kit
• New Magma BBQ with Rail Clamp Mount and NewRegulator
• Achilles11 Foot Inflatable with Pneumatic Floor
• Torqeedo Travel 3 HP Outboard Motor

****New Bottom Paint and Through Hull for Water Maker in March of 2023****

Too many extras to list them all, come and see the vessel for yourself!

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Small craft

Ian Oughtred Arctic Tern

• Designer: Ian Oughtred
• Builder: Viking Boats, Ullapool
• Location: North East Coast
• Length on deck: 17'

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Full specification

Wooden Ships Comments on this Ian Oughtred Arctic Tern

The Arctic Tern was designed by Ian Oughtred to be built in plywood and this was the first one he re-designed to be built in clinker timber.  She was built by Adrian Morgan and Mattis Voss of Viking Boats in Ullapool.  She sails well and won her class in the 2013 Caledonia Raid.

The original design was altered by Oughtred to reduce her length to 17′ to make storage easier for the owner.  In 2016 Oughtred designed a bermudan sloop rig for the boat which was fitted with all new sails.  This makes her a little easier to sail single handed and has not reduced her performance.

Varnished and painted inside and out in 2016, on a good trailer ready to go.

Construction

Clinker Scottish larch planking,  top strake Scots Pine.   Sawn frames, keel, thwarts etc in larch.  Oak rubbing strake.

Dagger board is made of glued strips of solid timber,  rudder blade in plywood.

The hull is fastened with copper nails and roves, mastic sealant is used between the mating surfaces.   All timber was locally obtained from sustainable sources.

Bermudan Sloop rig on varnished wooden mast, boom, yard and oars made by Collars in 2016.

Stainless steel standing rigging.  Running rigging and sheets non-stretch synthetic and Dyneema.

Sails .  Made by North Sea Sails, Tollesbury.    Gunter main, and Jib.  Cloth is 7.7oz white Dacron, non-stretch cruising cloth.

3 buoyancy bags, in polycotton bags, fastened with Velcro to thwarts.

Full cover in polycotton.

Cushions/fenders.

Wooden Ships classic yachts brokers have an extensive database of boats for sale. With a wide range of sailboats , classic yachts , motor yachts and small classic boats , Wooden Ships has one of the largest selections of traditional wooden boats and yachts for sale in the UK.

Disclaimer:

These particulars have been prepared in good faith from information provided by the Vendors and are intended as a guide, Wooden Ships cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. The Purchaser should instruct his agent or surveyor to validate all details as necessary and satisfy himself with the condition of the vessel and its equipment.

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How to Sell a Yacht

September 5th 2022

How to sell a classic yacht – 10 things to expect from your broker.   Selling a classic yacht can be daunting, but working with a broker can simp…

Arctic Tern – MOONSHADOW

This is a lovely clinker sailing boat.  Gunter rigged and with a cloud of sail.  In fact in a blow she is quite tender but does go well!  An Iain Oughtred design, typical of his style.  This makes a very good ‘raid’ boat, she rows well, sails well and I have managed to build an outboard outrigger on the starboard side to take a small 2.5 hp motor.  This is much easier to instal than a well and does little to spoil the lines – and no huge hole in the middle of the boat.  For rowing, the boat is a little heavy when compared to others and whilst she handles well, she can be a bit of a challenge to row in a decent crosswind.

Some points for anyone contemplating building one of these.  You can get a kit of ply and build frames cut out by Alec Jordan, and this will go a long way to getting you started, but more than that there is an economy of ply as Alec does take care to nest the plank sections which means that ply is not unnecessarily wasted.  This saves the lofting process and gets you going quicker.  Iain’s book Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual is a useful read not only covering the basic techniques, but there is also a great deal of wisdom on the matter of dealing with Epoxy – which can be a subject in itself.

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The Arctic Tern Project: For Passionate Sailors & DIY'ers, a Blog You Can't Miss

Posted August 21, 2009

Four years ago I got caught up in a boat building saga that continues to this day. Called The Arctic Tern Project , it chronicles Peter Gron of Gabriola Island, BC, Canada's odyssey which began in the autumn of 2004 when he built a boat shed and started building the 23' sloop Arctic Tern.

The Arctic Tern is of composite construction using the "Stitch-and-Glue" technique and was designed by Sam Devlin of Olympia Washington.

Since then I have been faithfully tuning in at the start of each month for the latest report on his project. Peter has persisted through cuts and bruises, missteps and miss-cuts, winter and summer to where he can now see the finish line.

Many of the photos of the gleaming varnish, bright brass and fine lines are a real pleasure to see.

If you are interested in do-it-yourself boat building, I highly recommend taking a look and guarantee that you will be quickly hooked. Many thanks to Peter for allowing me to reproduce some of his photos here.

To see where Peter is on the project today, see the Epilogue> click here.

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1910 Craftsman

Art and craft considered., pygmy boats arctic tern.

The Pygmy Boats Arctic Tern is a hard-chined boat.

I’ve been contemplating a kayak build since almost as soon as I bought a second-hand plastic tandem. The tandem was adequate for my needs–low=key paddles in local waters with my son, but it handled poorly and was 70 pounds. A key selling point for stitch-and-glue kits is their relatively light weight–~40 pounds vs. 60 for a single-seat plastic boat. Other projects intervened, and by the time I was ready to build, a local kit maker, Pygmy Boats, had closed, one more victim of COVID-related uncertainties.

I’d given up on on building a new boat and settled for finding something second-hand, when a search turned up an unfinished kit being sold nearby. It had sat unopened in a garage for 18 years and was in decent shape except for a cracked bottle of epoxy hardener. It had leaked onto some components, the biggest victim a stained length of fiberglass. Since the plywood looked to be in good shape, so I did some light haggling and took the kit home. Hopefully it takes less than 18 years to assemble.

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Arctic Tern 17 Kit

Arctic Tern 17 Kit Description

Pygmy Boat designer, John Lockwood, created a new sea kayak in 1998 with a graceful Greenland style hull. He named her the Arctic Tern in honor of the sleek, migratory birds which accompanied him on a 2-month solo wilderness paddle in Canada’s Northwest Territories. A world innovator in computerized hull design, Lockwood carefully crafted this stitch-n-glue kit boat with versatility in mind. He gave the Arctic Tern a strong tracking keel. When you want to alter course quickly, lean over on her hard chines and cut fast, graceful turns. The sweet balance between tracking and turning in this hull results from Lockwood’s years of CAD boat design expertise and 30 years of extended wilderness paddling.

Arctic Tern 17 Kit Specs and Features

• Structure: Rigid / Hard Shell
• Cockpit Type: Sit Inside
• Seating Configuration: Solo
• Ideal Paddler Size: Average Adult, Larger Adult
• Skill Level: Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced

Pygmy Boats Arctic Tern 17 Kit Reviews

Read reviews for the Arctic Tern 17 Kit by Pygmy Boats as submitted by your fellow paddlers. All of the reviews are created and written by paddlers like you, so be sure to submit your own review and be part of the community!

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I purchased my Arctic Tern…

I purchased my Arctic Tern 17 kit roughly 20 years ago while living in Florida and spent many hours in it paddling the Intracoastal Waterway. I have taken in on an 8 day/150 mile float down the Upper Missouri River in Montana and found it to be the perfect match for me, carrying all supplies and even 10 gallons of water with no upset to the handling or stability. Hatches and bulkheads really enhance the design and make for a very functional boat design. I have two other kayaks, but this is the one I will take on my next extended float trip. The hard chines make it a quick turning boat, even though tracks very well and paddles easily when not leaned into a turn. The boat is perfectly stiff and durable, probably much stronger than fiberglass alone, due to sandwiching of the plywood between fiberglass and epoxy. Clear varnish adds the perfect finish and is easily renewed. I have dragged the hull over gravel with only surface scratches. Any deeper gouges can easily be repaired with a smear of epoxy and a coat of varnish. Building requires no experience, just patience and care. The hull pulled together perfectly straight due to the precisely cut pieces. I love this boat and have often thought of building another model, since the process of building was so satisfying.

When I first tried several of…

Funny story how i got into…, i've had a chance to paddle…, i built my arctic tern in…, i wanted a pygmy boat the…, i built the at17 in 2004. the…, in the summer of 2007 after…, ignore the number. i built…, maybe time to chime in here.…, i've had a 17 foot arctic…, ok...let me begin by saying:…, i cannot speak more highly of…, i am a beginning paddler at…, i have recently completed…, i use this medium-volume boat…, similar kayaks for you:.

Tomcat Tandem

Sooty Tern 25

Devlin Boats , Sailboats

A diesel engine was planned for in the design and a 3/4 length full keel allows shoal draft capability with the easy balanced helm of a fully separate rudder system. This Keel/ rudder combination allows a very sensitive helm that tracks extremely well and has a bit more efficiency than a normal full keel/transom hung rudder arrangement. And with the transom hung rudder a very strong rudder connection is possible and servicing and maintenance is easy and quick. A large cockpit was planned to accommodate up to four adults for sailing with comfort, and single winches for headsails are right at hand and convenient to use.

All sail raising and lowering is done from the mast base with a bronze belaying pin type gooseneck allowing organizing of the halyards and easy non fouling access to raising and lowering of the sails. With her traditional rig, and idic lines but yet very simple and easy to set up and take down sails the Sooty Tern should be a breeze to go out for a quick daysail or if time allows you can go out for a more extended cruise. The Gaff rigged sloop sailplan is remarkably easy to use and sail and the Gaff rigged mainsail can be boomed out for downwind sailing almost obviating the need for expensive hard to handle down wind headsails. With her traditional appearance but yet crisp, pure performance the Sooty Tern harkens back to a time when sailing meant personal enjoyment and intimacy with the boat and the water.

Going below there is a very small head to starboard, double berth forward and quarter berth to port extending slightly under the cockpit seats. The small galley is more than adequate for a boat of this size where food preparation is simple and basic. Good space, comfortable berths, and a warm dry cabin can make a good days sailing complete, and with the company of a couple of good friends what more could one ask for.

One feature of the Sooty Tern that has been dealt with straightforward is auxiliary power. Instead of fooling with outboard brackets on the stern or a even less desirable a compromise outboard motor/well with its drag and loss of performance, the Sooty Tern has its own 10 hp. diesel engine in a proper engine box with sound insulation and room enough to keep the engine clean and well oiled. These small diesels can be one of the best shipmates imaginable, converting dying breezes or a short sail that needs to be terminated to get back to our busy normal schedules. With the engine always at hand and the turn of a key the only move necessary to get one out of an embarrassing moment this little diesel can be an important feature in a small personal cruiser such as the Sooty Tern.

The Sooty Tern is available either as a custom built boat from Devlin Designing Boatbuilders of Olympia, Washington or as full amateur building plans for the home builder using the Stitch and Glue boatbuilding method. — Sam Devlin

Notice to our valued Devlin Boat customers

As always, if you have any questions about orders (past or present), don’t hesitate to get in touch!

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Living with Sprit Sails

Brailing, Reefing, and Furling

From Issue   May 2016

I have been using sprit rigs for decades and currently have one for my Good Little Skiff and two of them for my Delaware ducker. Of late, sprit rigs seem to have become less popular for small boats than the lug, which is more easily reefed. But there is a lot to be said for a sprit rig, whether boomed or boomless. If set up the way fishermen and hunters once had them, they are ideal for trailerable boats. The sail is laced to the mast and can be dropped into the step, a sheet reeved, and off you go. My sprit rigs live in long, loose, and slippery bags of light fabric. To unpack a bag, I untie it, flick the rig vertical, and pull the bag down; I’m ready to step the mast with everything attached to it. To put the rig away, I lift up the foot and pull the bag on over it, then work it along the bundled sail and spars.

For transport, a bag sewn of light, slippery cloth keeps the bundled sprit rig compact and not prone to getting snagged.

The key to working with a sail, sprit, and mast—and boom if you have one—is to have it all in a bundle. To create this you need a brail line. As Pete Culler showed us in his book Skiffs and Schooners , a light, slippery line is fixed to the throat grommet, then run to a small brass thimble sewn to the leech and run back to another thimble on the opposite side of the throat, and then down the mast. I use a clove hitch to tie the brail in, a grommet punched to the leech, and a small block or ring at throat. The distance from the peak to the grommet is the same as that from the peak to the throat. If you have a boom, you need a little block of wood on the bottom with a bee hole in it, set at a distance from the boom jaws that’s equal to the length of the sail luff. For a boomed spritsail the brail is run through the bee hole on the boom, not a grommet on the leech, and gathers up both boom and sprit.

A small block tied to the throat sends the brail down along the mast. The sail here is reefed and brailed. Note the throat pennant takes a hitch around the mast before it heads up to be tied to the masthead.

I tie the tail end of the brail to the tack grommet, leaving enough slack in it to let the sail set properly. To furl the rig, haul on the part of the brail that lies alongside the mast, leaving its end tied to the tack. When it has bundled the rig, I clove-hitch the brail onto the tack thumb cleat, which has a thumb just long enough to drop the hitch onto it. I then have enough slack brail to run up the mast and to make a lashing around the bundled sail and spars to keep everything together.

The other key to managing the sprit rig I learned from Joe Liener, and was done by the Delaware ducker and sneakbox sailors: using a peak pennant. This is a light line tied on to the grommet at the peak of the sail and run down the sprit to a rolling hitch or to a small wooden cleat. It keeps the grommet in place on the sprit even when there is no tension on the snotter or indeed if the sprit is out of the snotter completely when doing a nice, tight roll of the sail around the sprit. When you next raise the sail, the peak is ready to go. The peak pennant is long enough so that if you have to scandalize the sail (remove the sprit and fold the sail from throat to clew), you can pop the sprit out of the snotter and pull the sprit down far enough to grab the pennant and not have the peak slip off the sprit and flap out of reach.

The major objection that many have to the sprit rig is that it is hard to reef and that when it is reefed, it doesn’t set right. This can be fixed. Some people use multiple thumb cleats or relatively sticky line to lower the snotter on the mast so that the sprit can continue to bisect the peak, as it must for the sail to set right, when the sail is lowered. Sliding the snotter down the mast probably worked well in the days of manila, but today’s synthetic lines are slipperier. Since I don’t want to have an extra thumb cleat on my mast, I use a snotter pennant, a light line that has a loop to slip over the snotter’s lone thumb cleat, and a tail end that is tied to the snotter’s wrap around the mast.

A pennant for the throat takes the place of a halyard and requires the rig to be lowered to reef the sail.

Lowering the sprit can create a problem on some boats if the butt of the sprit hits the deck or gunwales. This is easily solved by using the peak pennant. The grommet normally rests on the shoulders of the sprit, but if the grommet is large enough, it can be turned to a right angle to the sprit and can be slid past the shoulder. The peak grommet needs to be big enough so it can be slid a foot or two down the sprit. Then you can run the sprit up past the peak far enough so that its butt doesn’t hit the deck. The peak pennant runs up to the sprit shoulder and is clove-hitched there. If the grommet is too small to slip past the sprit’s shoulder, you can loop the pennant around the sprit, thread it through the peak grommet, and then tie it off on the sprit’s shoulder.

I only reef the spritsail on my skiff about 10% of the time or less, so to keep the rig simple, I don’t use a halyard. A throat pennant ties the sail to the masthead. It’s another bit of light line, this one somewhat longer than the depth of the reef.

If I need to reef, I’ll brail the sail, unstep the mast, and drop the whole rig in the boat. This has lots of advantages. Instead of standing up and bouncing around, I am nice and stable, just lying a-hull; I may even have a cup of coffee from my Thermos. I untie the throat pennant, pull slack in the luff, and tie the luff tack cringle to the sail’s tack. To reduce the number of lines, my tack lashing is an extension of my luff lace line that is clove-hitched to the throat, then spiraled down the mast through the luff grommets. It is clove-hitched to the tack, then looped around the mast under the tack thumb cleat, then clove-hitched again to the tack. The tail end has enough extra so I can use it to lash the throat reef cringle to the throat so I don’t need an extra line. I then pull on the throat pennant to tension the luff and clove-hitch it to the masthead.

Having dealt with the luff, I shift the snotter down but don’t hook the sprit back in yet. I hook the snotter pennant over the snotter thumb cleat and half-hitch it to the snotter loop on the mast. If you frequently reef, the snotter pennant can be permanently lashed to the snotter, measured to the correct length, and a loop tied in to hook over the thumb cleat. (If you leave this in place, you have an extra line where you need it when you lash the bundle together for transport.) Then, after you’ve lowered the snotter, if needed, slide the peak grommet down the sprit and tie the peak pennant to the sprit shoulder. Hook the sprit’s bottom on to the snotter and set the snotter just tight enough so the sprit doesn’t come loose. Tie in the reefpoints. Restep the mast. I set up my rig so that I just relead the sheet into the reefing clew, leaving a bit of slack at the end of the gathered foot of the sail which hangs down a little, but you can use a clew line or pennant to lash the reefing clew to the sail’s clew so you don’t need to shift the sheet. Tighten the snotter, cast off the brail, and go sailing.

Pennants for the peak, throat and snotter allow the spritsail to be reefed and hold a good shape.

My skiff’s sprit sail is about 75 sq ft, as is one of my ducker rigs. I don’t race these boats, so I don’t need lots of parts to the mainsheet; I can give the boat a bit of luff if I can’t pull hard enough to haul the sheet in. For the skiff, I make the mainsheet off on one quarter knee, then just run it through the clew grommet, and back to a turning block on the other quarter knee. I have a half pin protruding down from a hole in the sternsheets set up so I can take a turn around it and use a slippery hitch to make it fast (something I learned as the doryman’s hitch). Having the sheet run through a grommet rather than a clew block creates a bit of friction that makes it easier to hold. For the ducker, there is a block lashed to the boom with a sheet that comes up from a becket block (I use a modern ratchet block) that is snap-shackled to a pad-eye fastened to the plank keel.

Ben Fuller , curator of the Penobscot Marine Museum in Searsport, Maine, has been messing about in small boats for a very long time. He is owned by a dozen or more boats ranging from an International Canoe to a faering.

Brailing Spritsails

A boomless spritsail is brailed with a grommet or ring on the leech.

With the spritsail brailed, the sheet is half-hitched around the lower end of the bundle to keep it snug against the mast.

For a spritsail with a boom, the brail is threaded under the boom.

A plastic fairlead keeps the brail in place.

The brail gathers up the boom, sprit, and sail without having to adjust either the sprit or boom.

A sprit boom is self-vanging so it can’t be pulled up by a brail unless the forward end is lowered and secured near the tack.

A line though the tack and around the mast with a loop tied in it holds the boom in position for brailing.

The brail for the sprit boom runs through a wooden block with a beehole.

With the boom brought down even with the foot of the sail, it is ready for brailing. The sprit’s snotter has been eased to lower the peak to make the sail easier to brail.

After the boom and sprit are repositioned they can be brought up tight against the mast.

Harbor Furl

A harbor furl makes a bundle tighter and neater than that of a brailed sail. Slip the sprit from the snotter and hold it parallel to the mast keeping the peak held high. Fold the clew over the sprit and roll the sail up until it is snug against the mast. You can use the snotter to tie it there.

You can share your tricks of the trade with other Small Boats Monthly readers by sending us an email .

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Comments (7)

I’d sure like to see more about that nice “barge boat,” for lack of a better name. In a power format it could serve the needs of my future “home on wheels,” that is, something I can tow behind a regular car, and sleep and eat in while on the way both on the road and on the water. That’s a nice boat. Maybe you would consider a follow-on article about that. I’m not much interested in sail power—I had some bad and dangerous experiences. Thanks for sharing.

You can get a glimpse of the boat in my article “ San Juan Island Solo .” The hull is a garvey form that was inspired by a pedal-powered boat designed by the late Phil Theil and the rest of the boat I made up as I went along, making sketches and mocking up interior arrangements.

Jim –

The Cunningham cruising boat is a very nice, practical cruising solution. For kit-boat alternatives, check out Fred Shell’s schooners or schooner cat .

I have a sprit sail on my 60 year old “launch” and know a fair bit of the language of boats but most of this went over my head (as the boom should).

This all is a lot easier if you lay the rig down on the ground and walk around looking at the corners. When I do this is a workshop, comprehension ensues. Have fun.

Ah heck, if it is that windy that you are considering reefing, do what the old timers did. Just pop out the sprit, chuck it in the boat and keep sailing. It’s simple, easy and you’ll make it home safely. I learned to sail on the spritsail-rigged Seaford Skiff RORO now in Mystic Seaport. I currently volunteer as captain on SPIRIT OF ROANOKE ISLAND, a spritsail-rigged shadboat at the Roanoke Island Maritime Museum in Manteo, North Carolina.

I agree. My ducker has no reef points at all. The peak pennant is still real handy. Once the peak is unshipped you have a handy bit of line to tie the peak down to the tack to keep everything from flapping around.

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Best Sailboats For The Arctic

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Many sailors want to experience a unique challenge on the water with high latitude. This means you need to find the best sailboats for Arctic sailing.

Not just any boat is going to do the trick, as a lot can go wrong in those extreme conditions. So what type of boat is best for that situation?

Ideally, you want sailboats that have steel or aluminum hulls and a low draft. Some examples capable of exploring the Arctic include Bestevaer 56 Tranquilo, Rekere 36 Ocean Wanderer, and Boreal 47. If you choose not to have that hull type you have to proceed with caution, but it has been done.

Sailboats that are able to explore high latitude areas are a unique breed of sailboats. They are typically geared for that type of sailing, so the average sailor used to nice weather might have not seen that type before.

According to sailors that have experienced this type of sailing, having an aluminum or steel hull is highly recommended. Even though that hull type is not designed to cut through ice, it is the best defense against unexpected chunks of ice that could pierce the hull.

Table of contents

‍ Top Five Sailboats for Arctic Sailing

Sailing in the Arctic requires a boat that can handle the rough conditions. While many boats can handle a variety of situations, a handful are meant to handle high latitude areas. Some boats are specifically built or modified to sail in the Arctic.

Bestevaer 56 Tranquilo

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The Bestevaer 56 Tranquilo is a boat that has specifically sailed in the Arctic. Many skippers have chosen this boat due to its aluminum hull and weight to help reduce the chance of ice damage.

Even though it is a little over 57 feet long, it is easy to navigate short handed. This was designed that way so that it could be handled in iceberg waters without having to worry about hitting one.

There is more than enough room to house multiple people in your crew and to make life easier sailing in the Arctic. Everyone can take turns keeping warm in the galley while also having plenty of storage for food.

The boat is capable of holding 304 gallons in the tank, which is great for longer travels. The draft is a little heavier, sitting anywhere between 5.91 feet and 11.48 feet depending on weight. A heavier boat like this could help with powering through chunks of ice.

Rekere 36 Ocean Wanderer

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If you want a boat that has recently been seen traveling through the Arctic, the Rekere 36 Ocean Wanderer is a good one. There are plenty of videos online showing that success. While it can be difficult to find used high-latitude sailboats on the market, patience might pay off with this one.

The Ocean Wanderer has a steel hull, which means it is much cheaper than aluminum hulls. It has a great pilothouse, which is essential for sailing in the Arctic due to the cold.

It also has a reliable source of heat known as Refleks. These are generally equipped already, but you could always have one put in if your model does not have one.

The boat sits low in the water around 6.5 feet, which is good for avoiding chunks of ice underneath. The steel hull is capable of powering through, but only if you proceed with caution.

If you are able to find one of these, make sure you know the history. If the previous owner sailed through the Arctic already, a walkthrough would not hurt.

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The Boreal 47 is an excellent vessel that can handle anything thrown at it. The hull, deck, and even the pilothouse are encased with aluminum.

The canoe body has multiple chines and a pair of daggerboards that help with maneuvering. It is equipped with a large wheel and has an autopilot feature. While navigating through the Arctic, you want something easy to handle and that will react in a timely manner.

The deck is also coated with plenty of anti-slip coverings and has safety railings on either side of the mast. So in the event, you do slip due to ice forming on the deck, you have some reassurance for the railings being there.

In the galley, you will find plenty of room for this area to store food and heavy-duty seals on the door to help keep the interior warm. Whenever you need to get out of the cold for a bit, stepping inside here will make you not want to leave.

The draft typically sits anywhere between 3.35 feet to 8.14 feet, depending on how much weight is added. This is great as it sits fairly low in the water. In addition, the fuel capacity is 159 gallons which is a good start for long-distance sailing.

Good Hope 56

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The Good Hope 56 is built exactly for high latitude sailing conditions. While no promises can be made on any high latitude voyage, this boat has the capability of getting the job done.

At around 56 feet long and a lifting keel to change between three and eight feet in draft, there is some wiggle room for maneuvering with ease. With it being an aluminum boat, this should help with feeling lighter and easy to handle.

The fuel capacity has an excellent amount at 507 gallons. This is perfect for long distances where fuel might be hard to come by.

When the wind gets up in the Arctics, this boat is a little easier to handle than most others. This could be a great benefit if you are in a tight spot.

Allures 51.9

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The Allures 51.9 is still a relatively new design by this brand, which has specifically built sailing yachts. This time, they went with an all-aluminum hull to help power through the Arctics. This 53-footer has a lot to love, especially with a lower draft ranging from three and 10 feet.

They have excellent insulation to help protect the interior and to keep the core warm. The interior designs are one of the more stunning aspects of this boat, in comparison to other sailboats.

At 198 gallons of fuel, it is solid for long-distance sailing. You can keep warm in the galley with comfortable seating and quality seals on the doors and windows.

Sailing with a GRP Hull

If you must sail the Arctic with a glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) hull, you need to take extra precautions. As if it was not dangerous enough sailing the Arctic with a heavy-duty hull, the conditions are worse now.

Since GRP hulls are a blend of fiberglass and polyester resins to form a laminate, it contains air pockets. This allows the resin and the glass fibers to connect. It is more prone to cuts and dings, which is not what you want in waters that are going to have large chunks of ice.

If you sail with this hull type, you want the integral floor frame to be made of steel. You also want a watertight crash bulkhead.

In addition, it would be beneficial to reinforce the waterline and stem with Kevlar. This has good resistance to scrapping in icy waters. No sailboat is designed to cut through ice, but metal hulls have a better chance to survive the tougher conditions in the Arctic waters.

Tips for Sailing in the Arctic

Having the right boat to sail in the Arctic is one part of the equation. The rest of the trip depends on a lot of factors that you can help control, such as clothing, food, and fuel.

Being short on one of these necessities could leave you in a bad situation. It is recommended that you plan a trip like this well out in advance.

Proper Gear

Having the proper gear, no matter what the elements throw at you, is important before sailing the Arctic. This means you need clothing that will keep you warm, dry, and shield you from blistering wind.

Wearing wool as a base layer and then covering up with another layer is your first step. You will need the quality fleece and windproof outlet layers.

You want to make sure to keep your ears, head, and nose protected. Having something to protect your face such as a balaclava is a good idea.

You could look into buying slightly larger boots than your regular size. This will allow you to wear a second layer of socks. The boots also need to have great traction, as you will likely be walking on ice or wet conditions.

Gloves will be tricky for some sailors that do not like the bulkiness of gloves. Fingerless mitts and fleece-lined gloves might do the trick.

You also cannot forget hand warmers. These are great in a pinch to provide heat to cold hands in pockets. Bring as many as you possibly can stand.

Mosquitoes and black flies are potentially a nuisance around certain areas. Be sure to bring plenty of bug spray and a netting suit to ward off those pests.

Keeping Deck Clean

Ice and snow will form on your deck, so you will need to bring along a few shovels to help clean walkways. Using ice melt or other similar methods could be harmful to your boat, so removing it by hand is your best bet.

Staying Warm and Heating System

Since you will be in extremely cold temps, a proper heating system is essential. There are a few options to consider.

Whether you use electric, diesel, or propane, just make sure it works best for your situation. Oil ovens, like Refleks, are great at keeping the galley warm and having hot water to drink with a kettle on top.

If you have double-glazed windows, these are excellent at keeping your rooms insulated since it has trapped air in between two different temperatures. It also helps cut down condensation, which adds moisture in areas that you are trying to keep warm and dry.

Water Maker

If you do not wish to melt snow and ice into water, you need a reliable and clean way to make it yourself. This is where a water maker comes in handy since it is difficult to find fresh water in high latitude locations.

Planning Routes

For any major trip, you should plan at least a year in advance. Some individuals might not need to wait that long due to experience, but this gives you plenty of time to obtain the right paperwork, plan routes, and to test out your boat.

Start your location from where your boat is and find your destination. Make points along the way to stop at various marinas or ports to take on fuel and restock the galley.

You should make stops around one-third of fuel remaining in your tank or potentially half empty. Depending on how much fuel you are storing on board, this could fluctuate, so make adjustments as necessary.

Check the weather for those areas at certain times of the year to ensure no major storms are brewing at their worst. Heavy snow and hail during certain times of the year are more prominent than others.

In addition, you want to have maps and charts handy to scope out the local area. Electronic charts are excellent since they are updated, but old maps can still give you a feel for things.

Potential Maintenance

You will need to do a thorough check from the bow to the stern to make sure there is nothing out of shape. If there is any doubt whatsoever, you need to look it over again by a professional.

This would be a good time to put some stress onto your boat to check for leaks or cracks. You could take it out for a race or push it to its limits safely.

You will need to assume that everything could go wrong, within reason. Having spare parts, enough oil and filters for two oil changes, and an extra propeller would be a good start.

Correct Paperwork

No matter if you are stopping in Greenland or Norway, you will need to make sure you have the right permits for sailing. Each location will have its own routine you need to follow, so check before passing through.

National parks, for example, are a bit different and might take longer to obtain a permit. They are a little more strict and you potentially have to notify them you want to sail at least three months prior to going.

Before heading off to the Arctics, you might want to go over your boat insurance one more time. Skipping out on this could result in lack of coverage or paying more out of pocket for a serious issue.

It would be ideal to call your insurance company to discuss what steps you should take before going. It is better to pay a higher premium for the next six months than spend thousands fixing your boat because you hit an iceberg and your insurance was not sufficient.

Canned foods are likely going to be the easiest item you could store and quickly eat. Soups are great but do not fill you up.

You will need to plan your meals accordingly at each stop you make. Stock back up on fresh food when you get the chance and save the cans when you really need them.

A lot of sailors learn how to make bread, which is great for adding heat to the galley too. It is also served as a morale boost, as the bread will likely not stay long if hungry crew members smell it while it is cooking.

There are rules to how much extra fuel you can bring on board. Before going on your trip, make sure that you can legally take the correct amount of diesel with you.

Depending on the horsepower your engine uses will determine how many extra gallons you need to bring. Plan out trips ahead of time and look for stopping points with ports to make fueling easier.

Keep Informed

Having a satellite phone or a way to connect to weather updates is important. You never know what Mother Nature is going to throw at you.

Plus, you need a way to communicate with other sailors in the event of an emergency. Having a marine radio or heavy-duty phone can save your life.

How to Safely Navigate Icebergs

Navigating through icebergs is going to be debated by many, but it should boil down to what you believe is the best for your situation. Each iceberg is going to be a different size and shape, so making a decision in real-time is easier than reading what to do on paper.

A popular opinion would be to go ahead of them the best you can. If you were to go around or cut behind them, you risk running into a trail of smaller iceberg prices that have broken off.

If you have a radar, you will likely see larger icebergs on it. The smaller ones will cause annoying damage, especially if you do not see them ahead of time.

Create Space

While icebergs are interesting to look at, you do not want to be too close. They are unstable and can roll with absolutely no warning at all.

Let Fog Roll

When it comes to ice, fog also likes to be paired with it. Both together are a dangerous situation. If you have a heavy fog and the wind picks up, you should change tack and head out until you can safely navigate once again.

Anchor Carefully

Anchoring bow out from land and having a few long lines to tie off is a good idea. This is assuming you have found a spot that is clear of passing icebergs.

If you believe you could be in danger from drifting ice, wait at your anchor and be ready to cast off. Everyone will need to be ready and in position, so do not hesitate to begin the process.

Sailing with icebergs is often a waiting game and you need to have patience. Simply look for the best opportunity to power through safely.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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