a class pond yacht

March / April Issue No. 297  Preview Now

50/800 Marblehead Pond Yacht

After taking Thom McLaughlin’s class on building pond yachts at the WoodenBoat School in 2009, John Stoudt spent the rest of that year into the early winter of 2010 working on this model. It is a 50/800 Marblehead Vintage class design that John built with very thin planks, tacked to wood frames. John also planked the deck. All of the fittings are solid brass.

Design Specifications

ACCESS TO EXPERIENCE

Subscribe today.

Publishing dynamic editorial content on boat design construction, and repair for more than 40 years.

1 YEAR SUBSCRIPTION (6 ISSUES)

Print $39.95, digital $28.00, print+digital $42.95, from launching.

"It'll Do"

Huntington Harbor

From the Community

1915 Stephens Brothers lake union

DEATH IN FAMILY. MUST SELL !

1962 40' Sparkman & Stephens Yawl

Alita is a Sparkman & Stephens yawl (design #1245-S), built in 1962 by Astillero Bottini in M

1947 Quincy Adams 17 -Price reduction to $9,000. Make offer.

Mahogany planked on oiled oak frames. Spruce spars and stainless rigging.

New Lion 550 Trailer Sloop

2023 Lion 550 18ft Sloop.

Important Registration Information - 2024 Registration

Build Your Own Plank Constructed Pond Yacht

A vintage marblehead-class pond yacht designed for radio control..

While growing up in western Pennsylvania, Bruce Richter spent countless hours in his dad’s workshop learning the ropes, building models, and making sawdust before getting sidetracked with garage bands, sports, and college. The urge to build returned around the time he and his wife Jan moved to New York City, although he quickly realized apartment living wasn’t exactly conducive to woodworking. The planets aligned when he discovered WoodenBoat School and Kerbs Boathouse in Central Park, home to over one hundred radio-control sailboats. Since then, Bruce took WoodenBoat School’s pond yacht construction course six times and served as former instructor Thom McLaughlin’s assistant before taking over as lead instructor a few years ago. Bruce has earned several national craftsmanship awards for the Vintage Marblehead RC sailboats he built at WBS. He is former Commodore of the 100-plus-year-old Central Park Model Yacht Club, has served as Class Coordinator of the US VMYG Vintage Marblehead fleet, is designer/art director of the vintage group’s publication The Model Yacht, and occasionally builds guitars. Following a career as a writer/creative director in major New York City advertising agencies and as president/executive creative director of his own marketing services firm, Bruce and wife Jan are beginning their next chapter in life as Blue Hill, Maine transplants.

This course is appropriate for students with some knowledge and experience. Basic knowledge and use of hand tools is required for most shop courses. Basic knowledge and ability to sail is required for most waterfront courses.

This course involves a low level of activity throughout the week including: occasional standing and working, seating is usually available, working on your own project at your own pace is common.

This is a six-day course ending Saturday

Other Sessions: September 1-7

Pond Yacht I: $385 (Includes CNC cut molds, strongback, keelson, planking, fin, and rudder.) Pond Yacht II: $169 (Includes materials to finish the boat other than sails, fittings and electronics.) Pond Yacht III:  $35 (Shop supplies to help you continue your project.)

In this course each student will begin the construction of his/her own pond sailboat using the plank on frame process. This practice is similar to those used in building full-sized boats and allows for a flowing hull form that is beautiful on display and swift on the water. The course boat NORUMBEGA was designed by former instructor Thom McLaughlin. The class of this boat is known as Vintage Marblehead (VM) and is still actively sailed today under the guidance of the U.S. Vintage Model Yacht Group. The Marblehead class of small boat originated in 1932 using minimal design requirements of 50″ LOA and 800 square inches of sail. When fully rigged the boat is over 7′ tall, which makes it quite impressive from shore. The boat can be easily dismantled for transport. Construction of this pond yacht will pleasantly challenge and inform the builder. While group and one-on-one instruction will take place daily, students will also make decisions based on blueprints and developing an eye for form. During this week, the boat will be planked, faired, and the fin and rudder will be fabricated. Bruce will also discuss the steps that follow to complete the boat—decking, rigging, electronic installation, and painting.

Students who have started construction of their VM model in previous years at WoodenBoat School are also welcome to participate in this course to finish their boat. This week will be an excellent opportunity for further guidance. It will also provide inspiration to those individuals just beginning their boat and to view firsthand the final steps in construction.

This course is appropriate for students with some knowledge and experience.  Basic knowledge and use of hand tools is required for most shop courses.

“Bruce Richter was an excellent instructor. He taught the pond yacht course in a knowledgeable, caring, and professional manner.”

T.S., Wilbraham, Massachusetts

“Bruce Richter taught a great course. I liked that he checked our work each evening and made note of our mistakes to correct the next day. He pulled together regular meetings to discuss theory. I especially enjoyed the pond yacht history lesson! Great teaching skills. Great personality and a sense of humor.”

J.J., Phoenix, Maryland

Register For This Course

Courses fill quickly, so don't delay if this is a course you want to take.

Related Courses

Woodcarving, carving name boards, introduction to woodworking.

More from MARITIME

All boats are built to order 

for more information e-mail 

Something different a Z scale train layout in a briefcase

11/30/2010      Long Beach CA.

Jack Malone

Today we lost a very good friend, Love you Jack  "Godspeed"

Jack and his winning Newport 12 #701

A project in the shop now under construction.

15 ft. Chester Yawl boat

   Contact us for more information about our boats  E- MAIL Mailing Address:  5264 N. Ventura Ave. Ventura CA. 93001 Want more information about model sailing? look at our links page .

Thanks for stopping and come back soon.

  copyrighted � 1998-2021 Pondboats.com all rights reserved

• Vanquish 65
• Mini Maniac
• RG65 Appendages
• Maniac MK II
• IOM Appendages
• Marblehead Class
• Marblehead Appendages
• RT65 Ragnarok
• RT65R Armageddon
• RC65 Adrenaline
• ST65 Sowelu
• Mini40 / F48 Class
• Nightmare X
• Nightmare MK VIII
• MultiOne Class
• FireDragon 1000
• DIY Sail Winch
• Rig Building

Login to my account

Enter your e-mail and password:

New customer? Create your account

Lost password? Recover password

Recover password

Enter your email:

Remembered your password? Back to login

Your cart is empty

Pond Yachts: How to Build & Sail Them

Description.

This is beautifully illustrated in watercolors, and shows you a bunch of neat detail items to make your model building all the easier and more pleasurable.

Table of Contents:

• Introduction
• Getting a Perspective
• The Rule and why have a Rule
• Designing to fit the Rule: ideas for shape, aesthetics, of hull design, displacement ,and other practical matters.
• Materials needed
• Carving the hull
• Making and fixing the keel
• Making a rudder
• Paint and Finishes for hull, keel, rudder, mast, etc.
• Boat stands
• Going for a sail
• Living with a pond model
• Other boats to build
• Appendices: Glossary, Materials, Miscellaneous Helps

by M. de Lesseps

86 pp., hidden wire-o-binding, softcover

Customer Reviews

This a helpful book very informative and clear language about the principals of design and construction.

very handy for my project

I was expecting the information to be a little more technical

Recently viewed

Our Store is in Brooklin, Maine

at 84 Great Cove Drive. We're open Mon-Fri 8am to 4:30 pm Call 1.800.273.7447. WE'RE RIGHT HERE .

Timely Shipping

We are 99-3/4% sure... that we will ship your order within 24 hours Granted, that does not include weekends and holidays.

Secure payments

Rest assured... not only is our site secure, we do not hold your credit card/payment info.

• Opens in a new window.

• 1-772-287-7022
• 8AM - 6PM East Coast Time
• [email protected]

GIANT VINTAGE POND YACHT HULL – CUSTOM STAND – MAGNIFICENT   

  Presented is a beautifully built pond yacht hull made using traditional plank on frame construction important information added in italics . It is so finely made and built like a real sailing craft that it must have been built by a master shipbuilder. The hull is made by nailing a series of planks called “strakes” on a frame of sawn ribs that are mounted crosswise on the keelson with beams across at deck level. The ribs are placed at three inch centers. At the very bow is a screw standing 1/8 inch above the deck level, and 6 inches behind it is a metal strap. These markers can be seen in a number of the photographs. Taken together, both these items were likely used to hold a bowsprit in place. The hull is shaped in accordance with the plans which give the desired profile shape. The inside shows dried old paint and some accumulation of grit and grime again adding to look of a many years old derelict.  Due to this model’s age, many of the joints between the strakes have dried out and leave a small gap between the adjoining planks adding to a look of a boat yard derelict.   The streamlined shape of the hull originally made us think of a “J Class” racing yacht, but the addition of fittings for a bowsprit puts it in an entirely different category. The Universal Rule to which the J Class was designed was adopted in 1920. The class was selected for America’s Cup racing in 1928.  But a bowsprit installed on the model easily dates it back into the mid to last half of the 19th Century. Consequently, the model likely replicates any of the international large size racing yachts prior to 1900. This would include any of the yachts in the America’s Cup 1893-1903 Class, known as the great 90-footers,  and could include some earlier ones that had a single mast. The vessels in this class with a 90 foot waterline length were: Pictured is COLUMBIA of 1899.   1893 VIGILANT vs. VALKYRIE II 1895 DEFENDER vs. VALKYRIE III 1899 COLUMBIA vs. SHAMROCK 1901 COLUMBIA vs. SHAMROCK II

The rigging and much of the deck has been removed but the original rudder and the lead keel are in place. What you see is an advance state of aging. All the gear that was removed was lost, and there is nothing more than what you see in the pictures.     DIMENSIONS:     HULL Length Overall without bowsprit: 50 1/2″ L x 10″ W x 14 /8″ H to deck                     WEIGHT:  15 lbs STAND: 33 1/4″ L x 9 1/2″ W x 1 1/2″ H                                5 lbs

Buy as a work of art, it is truly a masterpiece, and makes a beautiful display.  

  CONDITION: As with all hand made models, particularly very old pond yachts that were sailed, expect imperfections.  This one has the blunted bow that is typical of a model that has sailed into something and also has an age crack on the starboard side amidships. The rudder and the lead keel are present which is not commonly found with models of this genre. The hull finish has been abraded with bear wood showing in places. In our view, this adds to the model’s charm. The end result is this is a fine, high quality model of which anyone will be proud to display.

About Land and Sea Collection™

The Source for the Finest Nautical Antiques, Affordable Marine Art, Vintage Dive Helmets, New Sextants, Antique Sextants, and beautifully executed Antique & Vintage Boat, Ship and Aircraft Models.

Contact Information

By Appointment Only Palm City, FL 34990 USA

• +1-772-287-7022
• 8am-6pm EST

Join Our Mailing List

Email (required) *

First Name *

Last Name *

Example: Yes, I would like to receive emails from Land and Sea Collection. (You can unsubscribe anytime)

©Copyright 2003-2022 by Land And Sea Collection™, All Rights Reserved. | Website by: Mary Lee Weir

Classic Pond Yachts

Cymbeline is an A Class yacht of some age, I bought her from the Richard Howard collection at Beale Park, mainly for the A Class Centenary celebrations in 2023 she will be sailing at Gosport, and anywhere else holding some centenary events. She is still set up for Braine steering and is well built. The hull weighs in at 62LB, LOA 78 inches and the beam is 15 inches. Unfortunately there is no entry in the A class register for a yacht called Cymbeline, and no sail number with the boat.  The deck is broken, I think either someone has fallen on the deck, or something maybe glass fell on the deck and broke, she has about three broken deck beams on the port side by the hatch, and there is a lot of broken glass inside! I am going to do a full restoration so she looks good for 2023

The transom is sheathed in copper, to stop the stern being damage when being turned with the pole?

The bow has a fairly serious chromed copper fitting, which has seen service, the front is flat.

I was hoping I could repair the deck beams with the deck on, but the deck is in poor shape, the glue had failed, the slightest pressure on the deck and it moved, and creaked, and groaned! The deck has had some repairs done, screws had been fitted along the Stb side, to try and hold the deck down.

I put my hand in through the hatch and gently pushed the deck up, and....... the glue has completely failed, water would pour in. I removed the screws and just lifted the deck off, but it was very tight around the rudder post, it broke!

Pictures above and below show a very nicely built boat, she is Mohogany from the keel to the turn of the bilge, then pine topsides, the hull is really sound, the deck beams forward and aft are fine, the beams midships and the carlines are made lighter, and have been broken on the Port side, but a simple repair, I think I will glue up the splits and double up the beams to make them stronger, the boat is so heavy that if you are holding her by the handle inside, and the boat is being blown around it will break something, the hatch needs to be strong!

I was not sure what the patches on the underside of the deck were for, picture above left, I have just realised the patches are over knots in the timber, I think they have put cloth patches over the knots and varnished them in place, to stop the knots falling out? if so it has worked!!

The deck was a puzzle, when I looked inside using my endoscope, I could see the grain in the deck was going port to Stb, the grain on deck was going fore and aft, I think the boat was too old to have a ply deck, now removed I can see the sub deck was approx 2mm thick solid timber with the grain going across the boat, then veneer stuck on top of the deck, sadly the glue holding the veneer to the timber has gone and the deck very soft, also the deck broke just aft of the rudder post, so it will be replaced.

I have removed the deck hatch carlines as they were not fitted nicely, the hatch frame was screwed to the deck, so the new carlines need to be further apart and fit through the deck, so when the hatch is removed you see full depth deck beams. I opened up the splits in the deck beams and brushed in some epoxy glue, then clamped up and cleaned up the excess epoxy, white rags in bilge to catch any drips while clamping beams.  

Wedges to hold split deck beams open while working in epoxy glue.

Beams clamped up, Stb side carlines still to come out, wanted to glue up deck beams first.

The old glue used to bond down the deck, the glue did not go over the deck beams and centerline timber, which has made the job much easier. I will fit the new deck in the same way.

I made up a sanding block, with one side slightly curved, then stuck P80 sandpaper to it with double sided tape, I used this, a file with an edge ground onto the front and an old chisel, to remove the old glue ready for the new deck.

The three midships deck beams around the hatch were all much thinner than the ones fore and aft, the boat is so heavy that these thinner deck beams around the hatch were very vulnerable to damage while the yacht was being handled, also the centerline deck beam stopped at the mast, and the last heavy deck beam aft. I have decided to double up the deck beams to make them stronger ready to alter the deck hatch size, so when the new deck goes back on this area is much stronger, for a boat where the hull weighs in at 62LB the extra weight is tiny. The diagonal props under the deck beam behind the mast are only there to support the beam while I am working on it.

The old glue removed ready for the new deck. I am going to use Robbins Elite ply 1.5mm thick, I will cut out two decks and glue them together to make 3mm, one option suggested to me is to put the deck down on soft bedding and screw it down, so it is easy to get off next time! That would be nice to do, the problem is I am worried about the strength if another boat hits her, and the beam shelf is so thin the screws will have to be on the deck edge, again not strong, and unsightly, I am going to glue it down around the edge, and around the mast, and screw to the deck beams, if the deck has to come of, it is only a case of setting up a router and running around the deck edge, and cut away around the mast, I think this will add a lot of strength to an old boat. Two deck beams glued up, I can then work out how to build the beck beams to form the new hatch and glue them up.

Cutting out and fitting new deck beams, the way the hatch was done was not very nice, you could see the deck beam, edge of the deck, and the coamings fitted on top of the deck. I want to fit the coamings to the deck beams so they come up above deck, then you will just see the coamings when the hatch is open, not the structure.

I want the deck lining to line up with the hatch, so to mark out the positions of the carlines for the hatch, I used the deck lining tool.

Stb carline fitted. I then removed them and cut the hlving joints for the last forward deck beam at the forward edge of the hatch.

Deck beams glued in position and clamped.

Deck beam fitted ready for varnishing before I fit the deck. Also while we have good access I want to give the bilge some more protection, but I don't know what the bilge was originally  varnished with, I have sanded back the hull inside as good as I can, and done a test piece forward with Brava Tung oil wood primer, I have used this in the past, and I does not seem fussy about what it goes onto, also it is nice and thin so gets into all the small cracks, gaps etc.

Sanding the inside of the hull ready for Tung oil.

Tung oil applied to first few forward sections, I will leave it to kick off overnight. This product is also good for use as a primer to bare wood prior to Varnishing.

I did not intend to start work on Cymbeline until later this year, she is for the A Class centenary in 2023, but while she is in the garage, I may as well sort the deck. She has the original wooden mast and spars, the cotton sails are past it, but will try to get some vintage sails made, Nigel Brown at Cat sails has made me a couple of sets of vintage style sails, new pages soon, really nice, this boat will keep him quiet! More to come on this boat as work progresses.

If any one recognises this boat or thinks they may be able to help identify her, I would be most grateful!!!

22 Feb 21 - The Tung/Linseed oil mix took a week to go off, but was exactly the product to use, it is so thin it ran into all the small gaps in the hull, it has now gone off really hard, where you could get your fingernail into the small gaps between the keel and the garboard, it is now filled completely  and hard. A couple of pictures inside below.

28 Feb 21 - I bought a sheet (8 x 4) of 1.5mm thick Robbins Elite ply, I want to fit the deck in one piece, and we use the Elite ply a lot at Yachting Sports, My plan is to glue two pieces together to make a 3mm deck, the left over is 1.5mm for stock, which will do for most boats.

I cut the full sheet into 3 pieces 400mm wide, offered up the old deck and cut out two ply deck panels alowing 20mm around the edge.

I cut out two panels and sanded up ready to epoxy together, I checked each side to get the best piece for the top of the deck.

The first side has been coated in West epoxy, started to coat the second side, then both sides positioned over each other.

I then laid a 500mm wide piece of Melamine shelving onto the ply, and covered it with lead weights. I wound up with a lot of lead shot from a job, I put it into plastic jiffy bags and covered them in gaffer tape, very handy for this sort of work, and loads of other uses.

I marked the position of the rudder tube from the old deck, and drilled the hole to give me a good location, marked out the deck outline and trimmed it off with the bandsaw, leaving a couple of mm, positioned the deck on the boat and checked the size, then planed it down to size with a hand plane.

I sealed the underside of the deck with epoxy, after it had cured it had gone a bit waxy, probably a bit cold, I scraped the epoxy to remove the wax, west system is really good as a glue, but is prone to wax if used as a coating, one way around it is to apply peel ply to the wet epoxy and peel it off when the epoxy has cured, but I did not have enough to hand for a  big A class deck. There are I think other epoxies that don't wax up, I will have to find out, if anyone knows, please let me know!

Epoxy cleaned up ready to fit deck.

In previous pictures you will see where I have put blue tape to mark the positions of the deck beams, my plan is to screw the deck down with brass screws into the deck beams, the beam shelf is so narrow that to put screws into the deck shelf, the screws would be on the deck edge which will look bad. I used the deck lining tool to make sure the screws are all in the same position, and just outside the first deck line.

When I fit the deck I am only going to glue it around the deck edge, also around the deck hatch and mast hole. I am going to put the ply down onto a Polysulphide bedding (Boatlife) over the deck beams, to give a future owner a fighting chance of removing the deck without destroying the deck, set a router to 3mm and run it around the deck edge and around the hatch and mast hole and it is off, but hopefully that will not be for a lot of years, unless she is damaged !

Deck ready to fit, next job to refit the keel bolts and handle, I am going to put a couple of sealing coats of varnish on the deck, also sand and put some sealing coats of varnish on the mahogany  capping, I will mix some micro balloons into the epoxy to stick the deck down, the varnish will allow me to stick on masking tape, and clean up any epoxy that gets where is should not.

1st March 21 - I started  to sand back the capping and realised that there is other stuff I need to sort, the top plank on the port side has sprung, there is no movement and the plank is not damaged but the lower edge of the top plank has moved and cracked the paint, there is a small dent in the capping so I suspect she was in a collision, I don't think it was a bad one, but the shear weight of this boat means any collision will have to potential  to cause damage. also the dent in the capping will cause the deck lining tool to wobble while drawing the planks, so it needs sorting. I decided to sand back the hull, and the outside of the capping and repair the crack in the plank, there is also an open seem in the keel timbers, again no movement, but it needs repairing.

Cymbeline  up on the bench, started to sand back the hull, Hoping to find an old name painted under the existing name so we could trace her history, no such luck! nothing wrong with being an optimist !!

This is the crack in the paint, the hull is really sound, even here you cant feel any movement when you try to move the planks.

The two pictures above show the paint sanded back to the timber, I don't want to strip all the paint from the hull, it is well adhered  and other than the colour having faded, is sound, but I do need to remove the cracked paint from around the planks, very nice pine planks. I did wonder about stripping the paint and varnishing, but the brass fixings have been fitted somewhat randomly, as she was to be painted, so painted she will be.

This is the damage caused by the suspected collision, it is right on a deck beam which may have limited the damage, or just maybe it was more serious and is the cause of the broken deck beams?? I will let in a small piece of Mahogany  and fair it in so the deck lining does not have two wobbles in them as the two wheels go clunk clunk, there is another small piece of damage on the Std side which will  need the same treatment .

We need to stabalise  the planking joint where the crack is, so I have removed the cracked paint and masked up each side of the crack, to both the hull and the keel timbers. I need to run epoxy into the joint, but I don't want to saturate the timber in epoxy, it will make it difficult  to fair in, if we wanted to saturate the timber, I would want to remove all the paint and to do the whole hull, but I think on this boat it is unnecessary , and  inappropriate.

So having masked up the joints I mixed up a small amount of West system epoxy and brushed it into the cracks, then used a hot air gun to warm up the hull and epoxy, that thins the epoxy and it will run into the crack better, I did this several times until  no more epoxy would go in, then leave it until  the epoxy starts to go hard in the pot, then remove the masking tape.

These pictures show the cracks after the masking tape has been removed, the epoxy has soaked into the crack, and should hold it solid. The next job is a sand down when the epoxy has cured, then mask up and trowel in epoxy with micro balloons to fill level.

The pictures above show the cracks have been masked up again, then West epoxy has been mixed up with micro  balloons to a thin mix, trowel the epoxy into the cracks, I used up the little left over into some hollows in the lead, while sanding the hull I removed the paint from the lead, epoxy is good for fairing lead, I may sheath the lead keel and fin with tissue and epoxy.

The masking tape needs to be removed before the epoxy goes too hard, and then leave to cure, then a sand back and all done, the pictures above and below show where we are up to now, epoxy still soft.

2nd March 21 - After loading the update above, I was thinking that where I have sanded back the old paint, something was off, the reason for needing to do this job was a long crack, about 600mm long under the top plank on the port side, the job described above has gone well, the epoxy has filled the crack and feels really solid, but the crack also has some fibers  coming out of it, I wondered if it was some caulking, maybe the edge of the plank fibers  have broken  where the planks opened up, when a sanded the hull back, the paint would  not feather edge, I thought it was just old paint, now looking closely, with my glasses on ! I can see the hull has been sheathed with a fabric of some sort, Graham Reeves has suggested bandage and Cascamite glue, something he has seen inside hulls, but not outside.

Apart from the area around  the repair there are a couple of small areas where the paint, and fabric have come away, here you can see the cross hatch of the fabric.

Again in the pictures above you can see the fabric through the paint. I don't think this is a big problem, but is something I have will look out for in the future, although you can't make omelets  without breaking eggs, so it had to be done. The problem is not being able to feather out the edge of the repair, so I think my best chance it to laminate over the repair with fine cloth and epoxy, cover with peel ply, then carefully sand to blend with the paint. We live and learn!

9 March 21 - I tried a small section of tissue, but the tissue pulled of the boat with the peel ply, but I did notice the area outside the tissue repair, the epoxy had well stuck and did blend out when sanded, so I decided that just coating the repair area with epoxy would work.

I painted epoxy over the repair area, used a heat gun to warm the epoxy so it soaks into the hull, allowed the epoxy to just start to go hard, then mixed up epoxy with micro  balloons to a thick mix and troweled it over the repair area, allow to cure.

I then started to sand the hull of the boat, being careful  to not break through to the cloth, but as I was not sanding over any more damage, the paint sanded back OK.

The repaired area sanded back and blended in OK, the epoxy has gone really hard and soaked into the edges of the cloth.

I took measurements of the waterline positions from the stem, and the back of the skeg.

Before sitting the boat upside down, I was concerned about the full weight of the boat being on the hull, without the deck fitted, she seems very strong, and the new beefed up deck beams are much stronger, but she was not designed to be upside down! to be safe I made up a timber frame, which fits against  the keel timber inside and takes the keel weight while she is upside down.

Cymbeline is so big, as you can see in this picture, that she is making it difficult to work on other models while she is here, so I decided to just get stuck in, and at least get the hull and deck finished. I am hoping to get a local store/workshop to keep some of the boats in, with luck the shed will be ready by the time Cymbeline is ready, she can then go to the workshop for the final jobs.

Before I put the boat upside down I repaired the damage to the capping, apart from unsightly, it would have caused problems with the deck lining, as the tool hit the damage, the deck lines would have wobbles in them, twice, as each wheel goes over the damage. I have another repair to do on the other side.

The pictures below are of general filling and fairing. She had lost the shape of the transom over the years presumably due to sanding and painting, she had also had the transom sheathed in copper, I assume to stop damage with the transom hitting the bank while being turned, thinking about the lack of history, to have gone to the trouble of sheathing the transom would mean she sailed regularly in a lake with hard edges, Gosport, Fleetwood etc?? I have also epoxied the lead keel, but with a boat of this weight, I will have to be super careful with how she is put down.

These two pictures trying to show just how big the lump of lead is, just the hull weighs 62LB that is a 6 inch ruler in the picture.

Building up epoxy and micro balloon  filler to get the shape of the transom and keel root back, the leading edge of the keel root is very fine, and has suffered damage over the years, the transom as described above had lost its shape.

Keel root faired in as original.

Transom faired in, sharp edges sanded off with a small blend radius.

The bow had a copper fitting shaped to fit the bow, it had had a number of 'incidents' and was pretty  battered, I got it off by cutting and splitting, I assume the front was cut off to accommodate the battering ram! I will not refit it, but also not going to remake a pointy bow, this boat will be free sailed, I want to give any other boats she may come into contact with a fighting chance, so going to leave it blunt and cover with a large bow fender. Here I have just epoxied the area to stabilise the paint/canvas.

Lead keel with epoxy coating. Once kicked overnight, a light sand over, some spot filling with P38, and get the first coat of undercoat on, then we will be able to see the wood from the trees, but hopefully just a small amount of spot filling. There are some obvious lows in the hull planking, but very minor, you can barely feel them when you run your fingers over the bottom, but to try and sand them out will probably mean stripping the hull back to bare and starting again, due to the canvas sheathing, I don't think it needs to be done.

10 March 21 - First coat of primer on, need to build up a few coats.

She has come up OK, a few small areas need work/filling, but not bad, should start to see faster progress now, the prep takes forever!!!

13 March 21 - Sanded back the primer and applied a coat of gloss/pre coat mixed 50/50. I have decided to paint the hull below the waterline ivory, the topsides a light green and the boot top a dark green. I have masked to the top of the boot top line, I will apply the coat of 50/50, sand back and apply a coat of 75/25 gloss/primer, I will then remove the masking tape and sand back, use the laser to mark out the bottom of the boot top and mask, then apply the topcoats of gloss, sanding between coats. Then re mask to the bottom of the boot top and apply the light green gloss on the topsides, then the paint has a good overlap to stop any water ingress, finally mask up and paint the dark green boot top.

Gloss/pre coat sanded back, a few areas of spot filling, ready for the next coat.

The cradle is not a fantastic piece of carpentry, more akin to a full size boatyard cradle nailed together on site!, but I like it, so I have glued up some loose joints, removed some glue blocks where the glue had failed, I will replace them with epoxy fillets, fit a ply base with some chocks to hold the keel. Coat the cradle with Sadolin, fit some wheels, and cover the foam with green leatherette

15 March 21 - Two full coats of gloss paint on the bottom, I have removed the masking tape and you can see where the first two coats are that go to the top of the waterline. I will let the paint on the bottom go hard for a couple of days before masking up for the green topsides.

A test of the green topside paint, I would be lying  if I said the colour is perfect, I am not saying it wont look great, but the owl and the pussy cat in a pea green boat springs to mind!! I will put a couple of coats on before I panic!, the dark green boot top will tone it down.

19 March 2021 - Primer rubbed back and first coat of green applied, I am using a new paint to me, more below.

I wanted to paint the hull light green, copying the full size Yeoman racing yachts, which I always thought looked great, the colour choices with most marine single pack paints is not huge, while looking I came across SML Marine  Paints their colour range is huge, I was able to get the two colours I wanted, there is a dark green for the boot top. The paint is single pack Silicon Alkyd paint (never heard of it either) so far very impressed, if it goes as hard as the test piece, it is good paint, and cheaper than the others.

Starting to rub down first coat, the paint has gone off well and rubbing down nicely.

As previously mentioned, I took the first two coats of the cream bottom paint  to the top of the boot top, then marked out the bottom of the boot top with the laser, and applied the final two coats of cream paint. I then re-masked to the bottom of the boot top and started painting the topsides green, this picture after rubbing down the first coat of green paint, the boot top clearly visible ready to mask for the dark green boot top, after the final coat of light green. 

Hull rubbed down ready for the next coat.

This is the second top coat, it already has a really  deep gloss and has covered the white primer completely , I will put a third coat on because I want her to be as good as I can make her, but if I left her as she is she would still look amazing, if this paint goes hard and is tough, I am going to throw all my other tins of paint away !!! (except for the Humbrol tins, they are also great!)

I have allowed the green topside paint to go hard for a few days before masking over it. Now masked up the boot top and started sanding.

25 March 21 - These pictures show the boot top masked up, and started to sand back the paint.

First coat of Dark Green boot top applied. The 'Yeoman' racing yachts were amongst  the most competitive  racing yachts in the world in their time, they were all green, and looked great! as will Cymbeline in the same colours. 2nd coat tomorrow.

26 March 21 - Second coat of boot top green applied and tape removed, we can see what she looks like now, good if you like green, like what I do!!

Now I have to wait for the paint to go hard, whilst waiting I am giving the cradle a good going over with Sadolin, I have fitted a ply base to beef it up, don't normally  use Sadolin on model yachts! but its working on the cradle, painting under the porch out  of the rain, and doing the garden table at the same time.

6 April 21 - I could not resist taking her outside to see how the hull looks in her new colours.

And a picture of her when I started, hopefully you agree with me that she looks great??

24 April - I have been looking at how I am finishing the top of the topsides, Cymbeline has a timber capping, it has a few holes in where fittings have been moved over the years, also the damage where I have scarfed in new timber to repair. What I don't like is she will have a mahogany  capping around the edge, the varnished ply deck, which is a different colour, and I want to fit a varnished trim over the join where the deck fits, that will be 3 different pieces of different varnished timber next to each other. I have decided to take the light green topside paint up and over the mahogany capping, the deck will then fit inside, with a varnished trim over the join where the deck fits, more work but it will look better. There is a chance that if I don't like the varnished deck, I may do a cream lined deck, then the varnished tril will rerally highlight the shape of the hull.

I have put some filler to fill the joint between the capping and the hull, sanded it back, and applied a coat of primer, I then sanded back the primer, spot filled and applied a second coat of primer. The transom which is tiny will look a bit larger, which I think will make her look nicer.

Next job is to mask up the waterline, rub down the topsides and capping and start building up  the light green, some say I should have done this in the first place and it would have saved a lot of work, I would not disagree!!! But sometimes you need to see how it looks first.

04 Feb 23 - I picked up Cymbeline from storage unit to start/finish restoration, here she is now.

She has been in storage for a couple of years, I picked her up last week and I am absolutely  blown away with how well she has lasted, she looks fantastic, the hull has moved slightly, but somehow she looks better, older ? the planks has moved a little, but there is not a single crack in the paintwork, the SML 2Luster" paint is amazing I will be using it again, it has gone as hard as nails !!

This is GOOD paint ! 

Ready to start work. I will start with the deck first.

The deck was old and looked like it was past it, it was made from a piece of timber, cut out to about 1/16 thick with a layer of veneer glued to the top. Then the deck lining had been grooved. I was going to fit a new deck, I altered my lining tool to make a groove, but I was not sure I could do as good a job. The deck had to be removed as it was lifting, and some deck beams had broken and needed repair.

6 Feb 23 - The original deck seemed to be to old to use, also it broke when I removed it. But the old deck looked good, so I have decided to try and repair it. I glassed the deck back together where it broke, pictures attached.

The picture above is of the deck with lead weights on holding the deck onto the GRP laminate while it goes off, the laminate was laid onto the parcel tape on the MDF base, once the laminate went of, I lifted the deck off the parcel tape and unpeeled the peel ply, see below.

The next job to refinish the deck, Cymbeline had been sat around in the damp somewhere, and like the rest of her the deck had suffered. I am going to try to strip the deck ready to re-stain and varnish. Pictures below of the deck varnish being stripped.

The next job is to sand off the deck, there is another piece of damaged deck on the bow, I will cut away the damaged section and scarf in a new piece of ply.

You can see where the edge of the deck has been sanded ready to apply final deck paint, I should have done this earlier, but I did not! Picture below of the deck sanding being started, this will take a while I do not want to lose the deck lining. My plan is to re-stain the whole deck, and then stain the king plank a darker colour. You can see the dark line across the deck where is was repaired. I hope I can get the deck finish good enough to be able to refit the deck.

12 Feb 23 - More deck work, now it has been glued together, I have sanded the deck to remove old varnish, deck looking better, more confident now that I can save it and refit.

I have now sanded back the deck, still some marks on the deck, but I don't want to sand any more deck. picture below of where the damage section has been removed, the deck trimmed  back ready for new section.

Picture of as new piece of ply being trimmed ready to glue on.

Here is the deck being glued on, used a section of nylon and lead weights to make it a good fit.

Deck being trimmed to fit into boat, more work to do. It does not matter about colour for now, this section of deck will be stained to make the king plank a different colour.

Deck being planed to fit hull, you can see where the repair has been done, I will varnish the deck first, and then try to stain to hid. At the end of the day the boat is old, not new, and I want that to stay, signs of damage are part of the history.

Pictures below of the original deck back where it belongs, lets see if we can get away with the new varnish.

Picture below of deck after a clean up with white spirit, time to try a coat of varnish.

First coat of varnish, 50% white spirit, being applied.

The varnish has evened up the colour of the deck OK, next job a sand back and 2nd coat tomorrow.

After the 2nd coat of varnish, it will be time to mask up the deck and stain the king plank to a darker cover, then more varnish. Fitting the deck getting closer, still more to do first!!

13 Feb 23 - Sanded the first coat of varnish and applied second coat, pictures below.

The next job will be to sand the deck, mask up and stain king plank. Also sanded the edge of the deck and applied green paint around the edge were the deck will fit.

Pictures of the deck being touched in, also below of the boat and the deck. Going  to the pub while the paint and varnish goes of! work tomorrow, start again on Wednesday. I am running out of time for getting her ready for the 100  anniversary of the A class nationals in August. Starting to look at the deck fittings, getting a chrome kit in to re-chrome them all, also the sails to think about. The boat is looking really good. It is sad that her history has been lost, I think she was possibly built between the wars, late 1930's, she was built with a Braine gear, and has the rudder to go with that system, also she has a small Jib, that rig was developed for the Braine gear, jibs got bigger as the wind vane systems developed, which meant the mains got smaller, and the rigs moved aft. Very sad that people allow all the history to be lost. The vane gears started to take over after the war, wind vanes changed A class yacht design completely. Cymbeline was not built for a Vane gear system.

When I bought Cymbeline the deck was in poor shape, also she had some broken deck beams and the deck was lifting off the hull, the old deck broke as I was removing it, the deck had been well fitted when she was built, but I think it started lifting some time ago, the deck had been lifted and glue put under the deck and nailed into position, this made lifting the deck very hard in places, and it gave up just behind the rudder post, it broke where it had been glued to the deck beam behind the rudder post. I was not to worried then as I thought I would replace the deck. I saved the old deck and used it as a template to make a new deck, see above. But after a couple of years thinking about it, I kept looking at the old deck, I was coming to the opinion that I did not want the boat to look like she was built last week, I want her to look restored, rather than new, so I decided to try and save the old deck, warts and all. 

As I varnished the sanded deck one thing I was not happy with was that the deck was showing some marks that were in the deck from previous sanding and scraping, I tried to sand out the marks, but did not want to sand off the old deck lining. You can see the problem in the picture below .

The picture shows the marks showing through the gloss varnish. I decided to use an eggshell varnish and see how that looks.

20 Feb 23 - Here is the deck after two coats of satin varnish, it is now nearly impossible to see and of old damage, I am very happy with the look of the satin varnish, it does look in keeping with the boat. The original finish to the deck was a brown stain/paint I am going to see what she looks like in dark green to match the waterline.

Masking the deck ready for painting king plank.

Deck varnish looking a lot better, you can see deck repair, it is obvious  but looks old, I think when the deck is fitted it will look OK. Picture of the first coat of paint.

Paint actually came out fine with a single coat. After the tape removed it looks OK, needs a rub down the deck and apply final coats of varnish. I then have an alteration to the deck hatch, the deck then ready to fit down.

The king plank is painted using the boot top paint colour, the final coats of varnish will go over the king plank as well.

22 Feb 23 - A good day, deck dry fitted, starting to get a better idea of how she is going to look

Drilling out holes ready for screws, this is not a final fit of the deck. I few of the jobs still to go, Open up the deck hatch to the new size, I am making the hatch bigger so I can fit some radio gear in the future, any radio gear fitted will be in a box, to look like a cabin, above deck  so there will be no alterations to the deck etc, I will run sheets from the existing deck fittings, and removable. She is currently weighing in at 61lb, for an oldie like me that will mean two persons to launch her, radio will make it possible for me to sail her on my own once in the water. I am also going to have to counter sink the holes for the deck fixing screws, originally every other hole was a pin, but they had been swapped to screws over time, when I have done the countersinking, I will seal with varnish, also varnish around the bigger hatch edges, then apply another couple of coats of varnish to make sure the varnish will last, if not forever, at least for the rest of my time with her.

This is what she will look like !!! I am away for a few days, then we have some work being done in my workshop, so a week or so to get back on Cymbeline.

2 April 23 - Finally  found time to get started again, making deck hatch coamings.

Deck masked out ready to trim deck to new opening size, I will still use the old hatch, but I don't  want the coamings screwed to the deck.

Deck hatch positioned and marked out ready to cut deck to new size.

Deck being cut back with vibro saw to new size.

Deck cut to size ready to start cutting out new coamings.

Forward section of Sapele coaming cut to size.

Port and Stbd sections cut to size.

Here the aft section has been cut out, the sections have been cut to allow them to joint together so they look traditional.

Jointed coaming being dry fitted, forward section.

Port coaming.

The aft section sits on top of the aft deck beam, this is the problem with changing my mind and using  the  original deck.

Here all the coamings dry fitted in position, now final sanding and gluing them  in position.

Original hatch on new dry fitted coamings.

Hatch in position on new coamings

First coat of varnish.

First coat of varnish applied.

More to follow, getting close to final fit of the deck, I want two more coats of varnish on the deck first.

19 April 23 - It was beginning  to feel like it was not going  to happen, but the deck is back on, she looks great, pictures to follow.

Now the deck opening size had been a altered, the deck was going to need another few coats of varnish. When I dry fitted the deck not all the screws went flush to deck level, so here I am opening the counterbores to allow the screws to go flush.

There were a few of the original deck screws that had broken, so the new screws would  not screw in when they hit the broken screw. I went around and drilled out the broken screws, this also opened up the hole, so I had to glue in timber ready to re drill fixing holes.

There were also 3 screws that did not screw into the deck shelf they just touched the edge, I cut out and glued in some fillets to help take the screws.

Then sand and varnish the deck, another 3 coats, then the deck is ready to fit.

Final coats of varnish done !!

Final coat of varnish  on the deck hatch coamings.

Ready to fit the deck, but how, I did not want to glue it down, it was not glued down originally, it had been glued down when some of the repairs had been done. The deck fittings will help to hold the deck in place, the brass deck screws will also hold the edge down. I decided to use a product called 'Butyl' I have used it in the marine industry in the past and it works. It does not glue, but does stick, if the deck ever has to come off, just unscrew the screws and peel of the deck.

The 'Butyl' is quite thin but much too big for Cymbeline, To make small sections I cut a 50mm length of the 3/4 inch wide strip, cut it in half and rolled  it out, a bit like  plasticine, then stick it into position.

I did not need to put it over all the deck beams, I put some around the rudder tube, also over the fixing holes for the deck fittings, around the deck hatch coamings and around the mast hole.

The bedding will flatten out when the deck goes onto it, if you push down the deck it will bed down,  it does not glue the deck permanently, but it does help the screws hold the deck down. Also does a good job of stopping water getting past.

This is what is used to bed down the deck, seems to have worked well, the deck material is quite thin, I was worried about the deck between the screws being raised up by the bedding. I tried a small sample section and found that when the deck was pushed down and the bedding squashed  out, it then seemed to hold the deck in place. I tried it and that seems to have worked well, the deck is quite flat as it runs along the deck.

Here the deck is screwed down, looks fairly  level. I am glad I used the original deck, a lot more work in some ways, but she looks her age.

The next jobs are to make some 1/2 round to go over the screw heads, not quite sure how to fit it yet. Also got some Chrome stripper coming for the old deck gear, and some chrome plating kit, well it Nickle  plating really, but will look great. You can see in the picture above I tried some Chrome plate paint, gave it a go, but not good enough. Just got to talk the wife into letting me use here shed!!! Chemicals will be a bit much for my garage.

Pictures above and below of the half round being cut of a length of Oak dowel, first coat of varnish below. Made a simple jig to locate the cut off section of dowel, so it would not try to twist/rotate when being sawn.

             Classic Pond Yachts

• - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day

• Remember me Not recommended on shared computers

Forgot your password?

Marblehead model yacht by Michael_A - Radio - 1:1 - 1940s design by J. Selmer Larson

By Michael_A May 26, 2021 in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day

• Reply to this topic
• Start new topic

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I started this model a few months ago and am creating this build log (my first) so I can show the progress to date and get advice moving forward.  I have to say I am feeling a little nervous! The boat is a 50" model yacht of the Marblehead class. This class was started in the Depression era when, like now, people had more free time on their hands. These models were designed to sail in ponds (like the one in Central Park in NYC). Initially they would sail on their own and be redirected by the owner at the edge of the pond, with a stick. Now, they are mostly radio control. I'm more interested in building than sailing so we'll see how far I progress in that area. 

The design is by J. Selmer Larson, a well-known sculptor during that time. I love the hull design and am interested in working with aircraft plywood. 

I am really interested in seeing how well I can do using the tools I already own – I don't want to buy a lot of stuff just for this model. Here's the strongback (materials from Home Depot) and the beginning of the keel. It's in two halves to make it easier to form. I don't own a table saw so most of my timber will be standard dimensional spruce. 

Here are the molds, and my first pass at the keel fin. Parts of the fin will extend up to the deck to support the mast. Molds are made of MDF and the fin is two layers of 1/16" aircraft plywood epoxied together; to be built up and strengthened later on. I do admit, I bought a nice jigsaw just for this model; even so the molds do not feel very accurate. I can fair up the hull later as I get more into it (I hope).

Here's the framework with the sheer clamps installed. It all feels a bit wobbly so I put some dowels between the molds to add some rigidity. If you look carefully you can see my high-tech twisted wire clamps. The green tape will help keep the boat itself from being glued to the molds. At least that is the plan. I"m not sure how I will get the  boat out once it is planked either. 

That's all for now! My main takeaway so far: A huge amount of thought and planning is required for each step. Once the planning is done the actual "work" takes very little time at all. I was surprised how far you have to think ahead to make sure everything will work out at the end. I'm guessing this is an experience most of you all are very familiar with. 

Thank you all for your attention and I hope to post more soon.

• aechmea , GrandpaPhil , mtaylor and 4 others

Link to comment

Share on other sites.

I assume that most of our members already realize this, but it's worth mentioning that the build is 1:1 because it's not a scale model -- it's a full-size replica of a craft that was designed from the get-go as a pond yacht. Should be interesting -- good luck!

• mtaylor and Moab

Chris Coyle Greer, South Carolina When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix

Exactly! There are a lot of forces on a sailing model so the hull and rig have to be very strong. The bow will have a "bumper" to reduce damage in the case of a collision. 

Class M models are fun to sail. I encourage you to consider RC-ing her. Just need a single winch to control the two sheets and a rudder servo....

Ian, Thanks for the encouragement. I've pretty much made up my mind to complete this with RC. I may try to find someone to help me to the RC setup when I reach that point. 

Now that I have the molds in place I decided to use a block for the stem and transom. It weighs a little extra but gives me plenty of gluing surface, and I don't think the weight will make a big difference. Fun to get all the angles squared away! I am using the second power tool I purchased for this project; a 12" disc sander from Harbor Freight. It works great.

I glued the keelson over the molds and attached it to the sheer clamp using the blocks at both the stem and stern. Twisted wire worked well for the clamps.

Here's a view of everything so far, including the chine logs which I bevelled in advance.

Note, the spruce keelson was too thick (too stiff) so I had to cut into it every few inches to make it more flexible. 

Starting to look more like a boat now! I have glued the keel fin into the keelson to make it one solid structure. I will reinforce the keel later as it has to hold a 10lb lead bulb.

Thanks for reading and I will post more progress soon. I hope you all had a great weekend!

• aechmea , Roger Pellett , yvesvidal and 2 others

Time to put on the two side planks! These are made from 1/16" 3ply birch plywood, from Boulter Plywood in  Boston. It's an amazing material – stiff and very light – and the surface is very clean. Here's my first try at wrapping the ply around the hull: 

I epoxied the side onto the framework, holding it on with as many clamps as I own. I guess you can never have too many clamps! 

I pinned the planks to the chine using toothpicks to prevent any shifting as the glue dried. The epoxy has no holding power when it is wet ....

Finally, I made a tiny transom to cover the blocks at the stern (and bow). Eventually the bow will have a rounded "bumper" in case there are any collisions.

Next step is to put on the bottom. Back to you all soon!

• ccoyle , mtaylor , GrandpaPhil and 2 others

That looks a very nice project, Michael.

• 7 months later...

What a great project and it looks like this will be a very well built boat.  You are within 30 miles of 3 AMYA clubs who I'm sure could help you with fitting the RC equipment. Although I don't think they race vintage Marbleheads. You are also only 60 miles from Marblehead, MA where this class originated and they still race vintage Marbleheads like the one you are building. I picked up a 1970's Marblehead late this past summer that I can't wait to start racing in April. I will be attending the Wooden Boat School in June to take a pond yacht restoration class and have found a vintage Marblehead hull/keel that was damaged in a flood. So I'll need frames in the interior, a deck, radio equipment and all rigging to build during the week in ME.

You might also consider joining the US Vintage Model Yacht Group ( USVMYG.org) which is the group who enjoys building, restoring and racing model yacht designs from before 1970. The vintage Marblehead is one of the largest classes.  There are all kinds of resources available on the USVMYG web page including locating and installing radios.  Last October we hosted the US Vintage Nationals outside of Philadelphia. Here is a link to the video of the Marblehead class races.  I was racing number 150 and came in 12 out of about 20 boats which was fine since I just started racing this past summer. "Pirate" the orange number 150 was a loaner from the commodore of our club since I did not have a Marblehead yet.

Please also post your build pictures on the USVMYG Facebook Page or send them to me, I'll make videos of them and post them to the YouTube channel if you want.

I can't wait to see your progress.

Roger Pellett

A recent WoodenBoat magazine article had a recent feature article about a present day reimagined model yacht class that is popular in the Pacific Northwest.  Interesting stuff.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

×   Pasted as rich text.    Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.    Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.    Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

• Insert image from URL
• Submit Reply

Recently Browsing    0 members

• No registered users viewing this page.

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild 237 South Lincoln Street Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful links.

• Articles Database
• NRG Home Page
• NRG Online Store
• Important: Our Guidelines
• Terms of Use
• Buildlog Index

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

• Existing user? Sign In
• Latest Posts
• All unread content since my last vist
• Unread topics I have posted in
• Create New...

• New comments
• Military Photos
• Russian Military
• Anti-Aircraft
• SA-21/S-400 Triumf

5P85TM Launch Unit for S-400

• Oct 18, 2010

Media information

Share this media.

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

You are using an outdated browser. Upgrade your browser today or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site.

US VMYG Newsletter / Journal Index

Prepared by Ken Young

The following is an index of the newsletter (through Volume 18, Number 2) and the journal (beginning with Volume 19, Number 1). The list indicates the major articles that appeared in the publications of the US VMYG when it began in the Spring of 1997. It does not include the editor’s comments, the president’s message, planned activities, and organizational items such as the leadership list.

~ JOURNAL  – The Model Yacht ~

Volume 24, number 3 – fall 2023 ( building ).

• 2023 US VMYG National Championship Regatta Report. by John Stoudt. A complete summary and final scores of all classes, as well as special awards. John includes descriptions of rare vintage boats in attendance, especially A Boats celebrating their 100 th anniversary.
• Modeling the Chesapeake Bugeye Brown Smith Jones . by John Henderson. John gives a history of Chesapeake workboats and their development focusing on Bugeyes, specifically the Brown Smith Jones . He then describes the construction process of the 49-in model, with excellent photographs and drawings.
• A Chesapeake Skipjack Stole My Heart, But I Love Her Anyway. by Peter Simmons. Peter describes his early modeling experiences building Thames River Barges, which lead to his interest in scratch-built Skipjacks.
• Modeling L Francis Hereshoff’s Design No. 53:  Ben My Chree ( the Stuart Knockabout). by John Henderson. John describes scaling down the original plans for a Hereshoff 28-ft knockabout to a 42-in model, and the calculations and construction techniques he used.
• It’s a 10-Rater! by Jeff Beck. Jeff found an old hull that he thought was an A Boat, but turned out to be a 10 Rater. He describes the process of deconstructing the hull and frames, planking the deck, and designing the rig.
• Remnant’s Restoration (It seemed like a good idea at the time…) by Chuck Lage. Chuck was given a Marblehead hull in horrible condition and explains his process of restoring a derelict yacht to a fully rigged racing sailboat.
• Sailing a Malay Jong: Not as Simple As One Might Think. by John Stoudt. John takes his Indonesian Malay Jong for its maiden voyage and discovers the idiosyncrasies of an exotic, but fast, sailboat.

Volume 24, Number 2 – Summer 2023 ( Fittings )

• 2023 Membership Survey Report. by John Stoudt. A summary of the survey sent to members in early 2023.
• Tee-shaped Brass for Various Fittings. by TMY Staff. Making a brass “tee” out of flat brass stock. These can be used for mast cranes, mast steps, jib racks, shroud racks, and more. Read on usvmyg.org
• Tools and Materials for Making Metal Fittings. by TMY Staff. Description of tools to help with fittings production. Read on usvmyg.org
• Fairleads. by TMY Staff. Making fairleads out of brass or aluminum nuts and bolts. Read on usvmyg.org
• Gooseneck Attachment Bracket. by TMY Staff. Making a gooseneck attachment bracket from brass strip and ball joint. Read on usvmyg.org
• A Simple Mast Step On Deck. by TMY Staff. Using a flat brass or aluminum plate for multi-position mast step. Read on usvmyg.org
• Turnbuckles. by TMY Staff. Making turnbuckles using a clevis and rigging screw. Read on usvmyg.org
• Constructing a Sail Control Arm. by TMY Staff. Making a strong and light sail arm. Read on usvmyg.org
• Addressing Sail Arm Friction. by Steve LeBrenz. Using Porcelane China Paint to reduce sheet friction in a sail arm. Read on usvmyg.org
• Rudder Connecting Rod. by TMY Staff. Making a rudder connecting rod using threaded rod, clevis, and rigging coupler. Read on usvmyg.org

Volume 24, Number 1 – Winter/Spring 2023 ( Sailing & Tuning )

• The Tuning Cycle. by Bob Sterne. This is a reprint of a tuning cycle design originally published in Model Yachting .
• Bench Tuning Your Boat. by John Stoudt. John presents some techniques for adjusting sheet travel before your first on the water tuning. He also discusses acceptable and unacceptable metal O rings and hooks.
• Sails: The Source of Power An Introduction to Model Yacht Sails, Part 1. by Rod Carr. Sailmaker Rod Carr gives an introduction and explanation of sail nomenclature, shape, construction, mast attachments, and settings.
• It’s Not The Slot! How sails really work. by Bob Scepanski, Bob takes a new look at the jib/main “slot” and what really goes on with wind circulation as it goes around and through the sails in this reprint from Model Yachting . He explains common misconceptions about the “slot”.
• Switching Gears and Sailing Fast. by Richard Kahle. Richard explains his process of setting up his boat, and adjusting sail twist on the water with sheet vanging and jib trim adjustments in this reprint from Model Yachting .
• TECH TOPICS: Helm Balance, with simple calculations of Center of Lateral Resistance and Center of Effort. by John Henderson. John explains the concept of boat “tracking” and provides formulas for determining CLR of the hull and the CE of sails. He describes the relationship between the two forces and how to optimize that relationship. Read on usvmyg.org
• Carr High Twist Sail Handling Instructions. by Rod Carr. Sailmaker and designer Rod Carr explains the development of Carr High Twist sails. He then gives a step by step description of tuning both main and jib to take advantage of the new design.
• The Right Jibe (or Gybe?) by Lester Gilbert. Lester looks at downwind sailing from two perspectives. One is how to achieve the best boat speed out of the set of your sails at various angles off the wind. The other is which jibe to be on from tactical racing perspectives.
• “My Boat is Sinking!” by Martin Blumenthal and John Stoudt. A sight that no skipper wants to see is the tip of his mast disappearing beneath the water in the middle of the pond. Sometimes you get lucky and your club has members involved with underwater ROV’s. This is a fascinating description of an incident at the Chester Springs Yacht Club in Pennsylvania and the process of retrieving a Vintage 36 from the bottom of the pond, including underwater video.
• A Boat Dryer. by Martin Blumenthal. Martin describes how to use a computer fan to dry the inside of your hull.
• Friendship-Rigged Nottingham 60. by Gudmund Thompson. Gudmund continues his description of the rigging and sail controls of his beautiful Nottingham 60. He provides a chart with the functions of all eight servos.

Volume 23, Number 3 – Fall 2022 ( Boat Identification)

• How (Where) Did You Find That? Pond Bo a t Treasure Hunting in the 21 st Cen tury. by Mike Denest. Mike takes us through the process of finding and identifying vintage pond boats using modern technology. He shares his experience of finding and trying to identify a 6 Rater. He discusses using the internet as a source for both finding and identifying boats including eBay, craigslist, auction house sites, as well as just word of mouth.
• A Dean ’ s Loft Discovery. by Mar ia Ferguson and Martin Bandy. In the process of clearing out their p arent ’ s home of more than fifty five years , the Deans find two vintage pond yachts. In trying to discover the lineage of the two boats, Maria was put in touch with Martin Bandy in the UK. She provides the email conversations they had and steps that were taken to determine the history of the two boats.
• Flotation Chambers for Models of Open Cockpit Boats. by John Henderson . As a follow up to the articles John and Stanton Smith provided in the Spring 2022 issue of this journal, John provides a process of a dding flotation to an open cockpit boat including calculating the amount of flotation, placement, types of flotation, and appearance.
• Two – Pond – Boat Inquiry. by Travis Butler, John Stoudt, and Earl Boebert . Travis has two vintage pond boats. One he has had for 40 y e ars and one is new to him. He provides a fascination discussion he had with John Stoud t and Earl Boebert trying to determine the history of the boats.
• Museum Find. by John Hill . As a volunteer at t h e Santa Barbara Maritime Museum, John discovered a vintage pond yacht that he ’ s trying to identify. He provides a discussion with John Stoudt trying to determine the history of the boat. Thanks in part to o ne of John ’ s college student colleagues they were able to determine the boat ’ s origins.
• U S Vintage Model Yacht Group 2022 Regatta Report. Result s , pictures and summary of the 2022 National Championship for all classes of the US VMYG .
• My Grandfather ’ s Boat. by Greg Williams. Greg describes the process of finding the history o f a boat that was owned by his grandfather that originated in England and ended up in Detroit with the help of John Stoudt, Graham Reeves, and Martin Bandy.
• A 1920 – 19 30 Wooden Model Cutter. by Kathryn T. and Bob Zeyher . The steps that were taken to try to identify a pond boat that belonged to Kathryn ’ s grandfather and had been sitting in her garage for 65 years.
• Swiss Marblehead. by Lee Bryant . Lee has a Mar blehead that he was told originated in Switzerland. With some help from the UK Vintage Gro up, he was able to learn who had built it and who had registered it first.

Volume 23, Number 2 – Summer 2022 ( Design Considerations)

• Model Yacht Design in 1896. –  Excerpts from Model Yachts and Model Yacht Sailing – How to Build, Rig, and Sail a Self Acting Model Yacht   by Jams E Walton. Walton describes how he used the shapes of a mackerel and a duck as design parameters for faster sailboat hulls, as well as determining rig dimensions.
• Modeling a Historic Chesapeake Bay Log Canoe. by John Henderson – a brief history and a detailed description of designing and building a classic Chesapeake Bay log canoe. Read on usvmyg.org
• Modeling an Open Cockpit Boat Using a Raised Floor. by Stanton Smith – the process of designing and building a raised floor in the open cockpit of a Chesapeake Bay log canoe. His design is another take on John Henderson’s design in the previous article.
• Modeling the J-Boat Rainbow for the Vintage 36/600 Class: A Challenge of Scale. by John Henderson – the challenges, calculations, and design process of downsizing a J-Class Rainbow to scale for a 36-in boat.
• Running Backstays. by Gudmund Thompson – the calculations, design, and sailing a model yacht with functioning running backstays. Updated on usvmyg.org
• TECH TOPICS: Speed. by John Henderson – formulas for calculating boat speed, as well as an explanation of all the factors that effect the speed of a hull going through the water.

Volume 23, Number 1 – Winter 2022 ( Ingenuity 2)

• Tribute to Rick Hilsinger.  – on his retirement from The WoodenBoat School.
• Tribute to Captain William D “Bill” Pinkney . – A summary of Bill’s sailing career beginning with his early membership in the Central Park Model Yacht Club to his 2021 induction into the National Sailing Hall of Fame.
• Basic Model Yacht Finishing/Refinishing. by Walt Shuggs – Walt, a finishing expert at Ford Motor Company, gives tips on creating the hull finish we all want. Read on usvmyg.org
• Making a Spreader. – The editorial staff explains how to make spreaders using stainless steel rods and brass tubes. Read on usvmyg.org
• Sanding Fixtures.   by John Stoudt –  tips on sanding hard to reach places and surfaces with strange shapes.
• Lift-N-Carry. by Richard Mikulec – Richard designed and built a free standing lifter for his Marblehead that allows him to leave it fully rigged, standing upright, launch, retrieve, and make adjustments easily.
• A Deck Clamp. by  Jeff Beck – a method for gluing a deck to a hull by clamping it with pegs and bungee cords.
• It Ain’t Pretty But It’s Effective.   The editorial staff explains how to create a paint booth using a drop cloth. Read on usvmyg.org
• A Mobil Work Stand.   by John Stoudt –   how he developed a stand to support a hull being restored without causing additional problems. He has made it mobile to address a problem we all have – not enough room.
• Shroud Savers. by  Chuck Lage – a way of using potato chip bag clips to organize the rat’s nest of shrouds and halyards that we all deal with into a manageable system.

Volume 22, Number 3 – Fall 2021 ( Ingenuity)

• Before Remote Control. by Alan Suydam – This article was first published in Issue 197 of Model Yachting . Alan discusses the various ways that model yachts were controlled before remote control was available.
• Tesla and the First Remote-Controlled Boat. by Ken Young – Ken discusses this very early R/C boat and when and where it was exhibited.
• Tesla’s Remote-Controlled Boat. by John Henderson – John discusses technical aspects of the electronics used in Tesla’s boat.
• British Boat Rigging. by John Stoudt – John discusses the ingenious way that this boat was rigged for sailing in various types of wind on Round Pond in London with unusual ways to adjust the rig size and fascinating deck fittings.
• US VMYG 2021 National Regatta Report. – This article reports on the five events held in Honey Brook, PA (October 2021) which included 32 skippers sailing 66 boats in the regatta.
• Wind Indicator. by TMY Editorial Staff – This article discusses the construction of a simple, effective mast top wind indicator.
• TECH TOPICS: Positioning the Ballast. by John Henderson – John discusses the importance of the position of the ballast in a model yacht. He explains ballast placement and the success of the model yacht when completed. Read on usvmyg.org
• Electronics Board Layout. by John Stoudt – John explains a simple layout that can be applied to many model yachts. This layout is simple and prevents the tangling of the sheets under the deck of a boat.
• And a not so Simple Electronics Board. by Gudmund Thompson – Gudmund designed this complex electronics board that he installed in the Colin Archer. He provides an explanation of the board and its design.
• Making a Deck Beam Pattern. by TMY Editorial Staff – This article explains how to make a deck beam pattern that can be used to layout all of the deck beams from this one pattern. Read on usvmyg.org

Volume 22, Number 2 – Summer 2021 ( Early Venues )

• Insert – The Model Yachting Center Proposal brochure
• A Tribute to Alan Suydam. by TMY Editorial Staff – An announcement of him winning the AMYA Hall of Fame Award and an overview of Alan Suydam’s background and his career as a model boatbuilder, sailor, mentor, and competitor, as well as his many contributions to the sport of RC sailing.
• Washington Model Yacht Club (WMYC), Washington DC . by Peter Kelley – Peter tells how he acquired a group of vintage model boats that had been used by members of the WMYC which existed from 1922 into the 1950’s.
• Pond Sailing in Seattle. by Scott Rohrer – A history of the development sailing on the various Seattle area ponds, along with drawings of several boats they sailed.
• Robert Bennet Forbes and the Founding of the Bennet Yacht Club. by David Gregg – A story of the formation, history, and activities of a club that was founded in 1883 and still exists today.
• By Their Marks Ye Shall Know Them. by Mike Denest – A discussion about the sail identification marks on model yacht sails over the years.
• TECH TOPICS: The Effects of Being Overweight. by John Henderson – A discussion of the effects on boat speed with an increase in weight of five percent. From Lester Gilbert’s work. Read on usvmyg.org
• Svea Project Follow Up. by TMY Editorial Staff – A discussion between John Henderson and Gene Novak on ballasting problems with Svea J Boat.
• Svea Ballasting Issues. by Gene Novak – Gene explains the process and problems with ballast in Svea and his attempts to get the ballast weight and position correct.
• How to Acquire a Model Sailboat Waterline Without Falling in the Pond. by Martin Blumenthal – A quick, easy, and dry way to determine the waterline of a boat using strips of a file folder.

Volume 22, Number 1 – Spring 2021 ( Construction Techniques )

• Deriving a Vintage 36 Model from a Favorite Vintage Marblehead Design.   by John Henderson – How to change a design/plan to build an effective model yacht.
• Building a Skeg and Rudder for a Fiberglas Hull. by Ivor Walton Read on usvmyg.org – Materials and process to install a wooden skeg and rudder in a Madcap hull.
• Building Odyssey . by Michael Neben – Building a model sailboat from a 40-year-old kit.
• Sanding and Finishing. by John Stoudt – Preparing a wood surface for finishing and the finishing process.
• The Cutter in Deal. by John Kinghorn – The process of building a free sailed cutter rig model yacht.
• Bending Wood: The Last Episode. by John Stoudt Read on usvmyg.org – Completion and installation of the hatch cover on a Classic Marblehead.
• Setting Up Swing-Arm Controls. by John Henderson Read on usvmyg.org – A simple explanation to determine sail arm length.
• Get Your Boy One (For Yourself). by Peter Kelley – A discussion about the vintage power model yachts sold by the Boucher, Inc.

Volume 21, Number 3 – Fall 2020 ( Boat Restoration )

• Model Yacht Restoration Decision Making. by Rod Carr Read on usvmyg.org – Organizational plan for restoring model yacht
• Restoration of An Early “A” Boat. by John Stoudt Read on usvmyg.org – Boat evaluation and restoration process with an investigation of origin and history of boat – could it be a Bill Bithell boat?
• Restoration: A Boat Without a Keel. by Margaret Ann Rice – Vintage restoration with design of new rudder and keel
• Busman’s Holiday.   by Tom Price – Complete restoration of 1930’s Marblehead hull, deck, keel, rudder, and rig.

Volume 21, Number 2 – Summer 2020 ( Vintage Boats )

• Early Pond Yacht Skippers: Bill Bithell. by Cliff Martin
• A Little History & The Pond Boat Story. by Bob Jones – A history of pond boats starting with the Egyptians
• Rating Rules for Vintage Boats. by John Henderson Read on usvmyg.org – A discussion of possible technical rating systems for pond yachts.
• Pepper – A 1948 Chris-Craft Custom Runabout. by Richard Rogers – Completion of Ch ris Craft started by Pepper Langley and completed by Richard
• Self-Righting Catamaran. by the US VMYG editorial staff with comments by TJ Perrotti
• The Great Schooner Model Society. by George Surgent
• Stay at Home Sailing. by Richard Mikulec – Tuning your boat from your couch with a fan
• Gadgets and Gizmos. A Paint Stand. by Joe Paradine
• Malay Jong. The Ultimate Free Sailing Model Yacht. by John Stoudt – Story of an Indonesian model yacht and its trip to the US

Volume 21, Number 1 – Spring 2020 ( Skiff Sailing )

• Lilliputian Cup Defenders. by Harry Dillon Jones
• Boat Identification. by TMY editorial staff
• Earl Boebert Craftsmanship Award. by Rob Dutton
• An Unusual Vintage Marblehead Design. by John Henderson
• Gadget and Gizmos: Plywood Plank Embosser. by Ken Young
• The Svea Project – Part 3. by Gene Novak
• Hulls + from Blue Crab Model Yachts

Volume 20, Number 3 – Fall 2019

• A Tribute to a Friend, David S. Brawner. by John Stoudt
• 2019 National Championship Regatta Report (review, pictures, and results). by John Stoudt
• The Marshall Croft Sportsmanship Award Winners (a history). by TMY editorial staff
• Early Pond Yacht Skippers – Part 1. by Cliff Martin
• What Boat Is This? by Nicholas
• Introduction to Vane Design. by John Fisher
• The Svea Project – Part 2. by Gene Novak
• Construction Help. by Allan Thorsen

Volume 20, Number 2 – Summer 2019

• 36R Class, Race 1. by Mike Stobbe
• 2 018 Bill Bithell VM Cup Regatta Report. by John Snow
• Spreckles Lake: Golden Gate Park, San Francisco (a history). by Carl Brosius, Mary Rose Casa, Craig Carter, and Mike Stobbe
• Boat Repairs: Rub Rail. by John Stoudt Read on usvmyg.org
• TECH TOPICS: Balance. by T.J. Perrotti  Read on usvmyg.org
• Danger Lurking! LiPo batteries. by Bill Ewing
• Planning and Building Scale Model Boats That Sail – Part 3 Building. by John Henderson Read on usvmyg.org

Volume 20, Number 1   Spring 2019

• Woods Hole Model Boat Show Preview. by Jennifer Gaines
• 2018 US VMYG V36 and VM National Championships. by John Snow
• In Search of the “Classic” Marblehead. by Ken Young
• How to Make a Boom Vang. by Ivor Walton Read on usvmyg.org
• Bending Wood – Part 3. by John Stoudt Read on usvmyg.org
• Planning and Building Scale Models That Sail – Part 2: Design Calculations. by John Henderson Read on usvmyg.org
• US VMYG Clothing Available. by TMY editorial staff Store
• Model Yacht Construction Classes. by Rich Hilsinger

Volume 19, Number 3 – Fall 2018

• A Tribute: Earl Boebert. by TMY editorial staff
• Lighter, Stronger, Faster: The Herreshoff Legacy. by TMY editorial staff
• 100% Scale Schooner Models? by Charlie Blume
• Planning and Building Scale Model Boats (Part I). by John Henderson Read on svmyg.org
• What Class of Boat Is This? by Chuck Luscomb
• Right Place, Right Time. by Rich Hilsinger
• Draw an Ellipse. by John Stoudt
• Make A Mold for Bending Wood. by John Stoudt Read on usvmyg.org
• The Svea Project. by Gene Novak
• Storrow Lagoon. by John Storrow
• Mystic Seaport Museum – The American Model Yachting Collection. by Paul O’Pecko and John Stoudt
• The Draketail. by Annie and Richard Rogers
• Banner Unveiled at National Championship Regatta. by TMY editorial staff

Volume 19, Number 2 – Summer 2018

• How Ya Gonna Keep Them Down on The Farm? by Bruce Richter
• 3 rd Annual Bill Full Memorial Regatta Report. by John Snow
• Can’t We All Just Get Along? Evidently, Yes (Central Park Model Yacht Club Vintage Invitational Report). by Bruce Richter
• A Tribute: John Snow. by TMY editorial staff
• Vintage Plans Available. by Ivor Walton Shop plans on usvmyg.org
• Catamarans Big and Small: Part I – The Early Years. by T.J. Perrotti
• Speaking of Batteries. by John Henderson Read on usvmyg.org
• Everything Old Is New Again! Resurrecting Vintage Designs with Digital Age Tools. by Steve Deligan
• Blue Crab Model Yachts. by Cissy Nickel
• Bending Wood. by John Stoudt Read on usvmyg.org
• Another Source for Building a Vintage Marblehead. by Steve Deligan

Volume 19, Number 1 – Winter 2018

• Getting the word out. On-screen. In print. And with your help. by Bruce Richter
• Maritime Model Expo at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. by John Henderson
• Mission Statement and Supporting Pillars. by TMY editorial staff
• The New Logo. by Jim Flach
• The Weigh Ahead Survey Report. by TMY editorial staff
• 2017 US VMYG V36/VM Regatta . by John Snow
• 2017 US VMYG Traditional Watercraft Regatta Report. by Harry Mote
• Look What I found in the Dump! – A Bill Bithell Marblehead. by Nick Nobili
• 2017 Bill Bithell Regatta Report. by John Snow
• The Vintage Model Yacht Group is…People!! By Ken Young
• Build Your Own Plank-Constructed Pond Yacht at WoodenBoat School (ME). by Rich Hilsinger
• Build Your Own Vintage 36 Model Yacht at Hudson River Maritime Museum. by Sarah Wasberg-Johnson

~ NEWSLETTER – The Model Yacht ~

Volume 18, number 2 – winter 2016-2017.

• The Weigh Ahead (membership survey report update). by John Stoudt
• Carita – An Unexpected Find (Part III) – completion. by Tom Schreiber
• Tritonia A 1934 Marblehead. by John Stoudt – restoration with drawings
• Scat II – A Previously Unknown Design by John Black (Part II – taking lines). by Dave Crawford and Earl Boebert Read on usvmyg.org
• 2016 US VMYG National Regatta. by Harry Mote
• Skylark – 36-inch restricted class. by E.C. Tansley (1950) – drawings and instructions

Volume 18, Number 1 – Summer 2016

• 2016 Traditional Watercraft Regatta. by John Stoudt
• Carita – An Unexpected Find (Part II) – restoration. by Tom Schreiber
• Scat II – A Previously Unknown Design by John Black. by Dave Crawford and Earl Boebert –  history and line drawings
• US VMYG Class Coordinators. by John Stoudt

Special Issue – Special 20 th Anniversary Issue Announcement

• Announcing the 20 th anniversary regatta and associated activities

Volume 17, Number 3 – Winter 2015-2016

• Operation Layline. by John Snow
• Sea Going Model Yachts. by H.M. Savage and J. Case (1906) Read on usvmyg.org – drawings and construction of large model yachts with steering
• Thorobred . by Matt Walsh Design –  plans

Volume 17, Number 2 – Fall 2015

• Self-Steering. by Earl Boebert
•   Carita – An Unexpected Find. by Tom Schreiber
• Sea Going Model Yachts (1903). by H. M. Savage (1903)
• Steering Gears for Model Yachts. by W. H. Wilson-Theobold (1903)
• Steering Gear for Model Yachts. by G. Rhodes (1903)

Volume 17, Number 1   Spring 2015

• 2014 National Championship Regatta Report. by John Stoudt
• History of The Craftsmanship Award, The Marshall Croft Sportsmanship Award, National Regatta Locations, Founding Members. by John Stoudt and Ivor Walton
• Black Watch . by John B. Duncan (1938) – plans and drawings

Volume 16, Number 3 – Winter 2013-2014

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – schooner and square riggers
• International Five Point Five Meter Class Pond Model (1/6 Scale). by Jack Gregory
• Building A Madcap Hull – A Build Log. by Ivor Walton
• The US/UK Challenge Cup. by Mike Stobbe
• 2013 US VMYG National Regatta Report. by Harry Mote
• Harry W “Pete” Petersen, Jr: A Model Yachting Life. by Harry Mote
• What A Difference A Year Makes. by Earl Boebert Read on usvmyg.org – Line drawings of Wampum, Wampum II

Volume 16, Number 2 – Summer 2013

• Alternate Design for Self-Tacking Vane. by Ains Ballantyne (1945) – plan
• Windling World. by Mark Steele
• The First 36-in Restricted Class Championship. by Mike Stobbe
• The Designs of Claudio Diolati. by Earl Boebert – drawings for Columbia, Endeavor II, Esterel.
• Snipe Jr . by William F Crosby (1932) – plans and instructions for 20-in Snipe
• A Note on Radio Control. by Earl Boebert

Volume 16, Number 1 – Winter 2012-2013

• Paradoxy . by John Snow – line drawings for a Gus Lassel 40-in sharpie
• Windling World. by Mark Steele – Of Pretty Boats, Elixirs Sought and Matters Mary!
• 78 Years of Model Yachting – the 1930s. by Ryan Hunwicks
• Blackchin II: A Sonder-Inspired V36. by Earl Boebert
• 2012  National Regatta Report. by John Snow
• 2012  Traditional Watercraft Regatta Report. by Al Suydam

Volume 15, Number 3 – Spring/Summer 2012

• US VMYG Vintage 36 Class Rules
• R/C Vintage Marblehead Rating Rules
• Starlet . by John Black – drawings, plans, instructions – reprinted from Popular Mechanics , March 1942)

Volume 15, Number 2 – Winter 2011-2012

• A. Potter’s Bunny I – plan
• Westward Part XI (update). by Ken Hall
• S. Wins the Challenge Cup (At Last). by Mark Stobbe
• 2011 National Regatta Report. by Harry Mote
• The MYRAA R Class. by Earl Boebert
• Class Rules and Why We Have Them. by Harry Mote

Volume 15, Number 1 – Summer 2011

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – Fife-ish Youpi Frencj Cutter for breakfast, fish for lunch, a Clipper for tea, plus schooners and a stunning racer!
• The Model Sailing Yachts of Franklin Bassford. Revised and Updated by Earl Boebert (2010 and 2011)
• The Compelling Nature of Experienced Marbleheads. by Thom McLaughlin
• Bill Huizing’s Puritan photo

Volume 14, Number 3 – Winter 2010-2011

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – the smallest schooners and square riggers
• An Appreciation of Priscilla . by Jeff Pierson – restoring A 19 th century pond yacht
• The Saga of the Little Yankees. by Earl Boebert
• Model Radio Installations. by Earl Boebert
• A couple of early photos
• How About a Square-Rigged Class. by George Steele
• The Eileen O’Boyle Square Rigger. by Douglas J. Boyle (1932–1933)
• Plover – M class plan

Volume 14, Number 2 – Fall 2010

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – A Stunning Westward, A USN Somers , a Schooner out of Bark, Sindia Sails Downunder, and Flavio Footy!
• Building A Large Model Yacht – Some Lessons Learned. by Ken Hall – 8 ½ foot complete schooner build, shipping container, and sea trials
• 2010 National Regatta Report. by John Snow

Volume 14, Number 1 – Summer 2010

• A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht. by Claude Horst (1939) – plans, drawings, and instructions
• The Mark Steele Challenge. by Mark Steele

Volume 13, Number 3 – Winter 2009/2010

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – Give the Man a Sailboat
• How to Build ‘The M. Y.’ Star Jr . by W.J. Daniels (1929) – 36-in plans and instructions
• More on Prospero. by Earl Boebert, Russell Potts, and Art Holzman Read on usvmyg.org
• Yet Another Starlet . by Earl Boebert – drawings
• Spindrift. Marblehead drawings. A reprint from Model Craftsman , July, and August 1939

Volume 13, Number 2 – Fall 2009

• Windling World. by Mark Steele -schooners and square rigs
• Prospero . by W. J. Daniels (1912) Read on usvmyg.org – discussion of balancing hulls
• A Speedy Racing Schooner. by E. Armitage McCann (~1930)
• 2009 US Vintage Model Yacht Regatta. by Al Suydam
• Mystery Marblehead. by John Stoudt
• A Nifty Little Boat. by W. W. Littlejohn (1928)
• Onward 18-ft Model. by W. J. Daniels

Volume 13, Number 1 – Summer 2009

• Daisy . by Jeff Conklin -24-in sloop
• Big Little Ship or Little Big Ship? by Earl Boebert – square riggers
• An Attractive Schooner. by Earl Boebert
• Another Kethman Vane. by Earl Boebert
• A 25-in Sailing Sloop. by Claude Horst (1933) and Earl Boebert – plans and instructions
• A Fine Ranger Jr. by Earl Boebert
• New England VM Regatta. by John Snow

Volume 12, Number 3 – Winter 2008-2009

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – Of Skunners n “Uvvers, a Vijfmaster, Solo and Three Brfithers
• A Husky Schooner Designed for Ocean Racing. by Earl Boebert
• The Fisher Drawings. by Earl Boebert – multiple plans for building and fitting boats
• Miniature Yacht Clubs. by Earl Boebert and an unknown author (1872) – reprint from Hearth and Home magazine
• Midget – An Alpha Class Racing Model. by Earl Boebert and unknown author (1921)
• The Lassel Vane – Theme and Variations. by Earl Boebert
• The “EZ-Build” Vane. by Graham Reeves
• Harold Kethman (vane). by Stephen Crewes
• Bill Bithell Cup VM Regatta. by John Snow
• Scotland Centenary. by Chris MacKenzie
• A Whirlwind, Jr. by Steve Kling

Volume 12, Number 2 – Fall 2008

• Windling World. by Mark Steele – Sindia, Inkerman Smallbones, Lurking Croc, Lady Love and Running Tide!
• A “Pole Mast” Schooner. by Earl Boebert
• The Delta Class – Design. by Harold Kethman
• A Marblehead 450 (vane sailor). by Dave Thibodeau and Earl Boebert
• An Interesting Tensioner. by Earl Boebert
• 2008 National Vintage Regatta. by Harry Mote
• Hartman Model Boats. by Richard Long
• Another Yankee III. by David Tanski
• Plans for Broomex and Exsquire (X class boats). by J. Selmer-Larsen

Volume 12, Number 1- Summer 2008

• Windling World . by Mark Steele – Sharpies for Whatever, The Tour Fassa in the Netherlands, Sailing dem Bottles, and a Magnificent Golden Hind
• The Restoration of a Sea Scout Racing Model. by Andy Abrahamson
• Yankee Down Under. by Bob Jones
• Spindrif (a vane Marblehead). by Charles Meister
• A replica of a 1920s Boat. by Michael Duddy
• Chico II. by Steve Mash
• Black Watch . by John B. Duncan (1938) – 60-in vane boat drawings

Volume 11, Number 3 – Winter 2007-2008

• Windling World. by Mark Steele– Of Webfooters, Direction-Changers, Favorite Boats, Not-Quite-Footy- Footies, and Purpose-Built Boatyard
• How to Build A “Straddle Bug”. by William Atkins (1925) – an iceboat on floats
• Racing Model Yachts. by William Henry (1921) – early racing in New York
• R/C Vintage Marblehead Rating Rules Update 2007. by John Henson
• Schooner of 104 tons. by G. W. Monroe (1937)
• Festive. by Earl Boebert
• What a Difference a Year Makes Wampum I and Wampum II. by Earl Boebert Read on usvmyg.org
• Etching “The Trail Trip” (1889)

Volume 11, Number 2 – Fall 2007

• 2007 National Regatta Report. by John Snow – Celebrating the 75 th Anniversary of the Marblehead Class
• Windling World. by Mark Steele – Of Square Riggers, Ketches, Sloops and Yawls; Boats for Pleasurable Windling
• Model Yachting Notes.  by Earl Boebert – VMYG Vane Updated, Traditional Watercraft Survey, Thorobred, Toy Yachting in Central Park
• Tuning and Trimming a Model Racing Yacht. by Walter K Moss (1937) – vane boats
• Kittiwake . by Earl Boebert – plan

Volume 11, Number 1 – Summer 2007

• Adventures in Cold Molding. by Earl Boebert – Part the Second, In Which We Find a Technique That Works Read on usvmyg.org
• Building 50-in North Carolina Sharpie. by Thomas Pratt
• Building a Miniature Yacht by the Plank Method. by J. L. Wilson (1924)
• How About a Dhow? By George Steele
• Mentoring Project Model Sailboats Launched. by Charles Roden
• The 2007 US-UK Challenge Cup – San Francisco. by Mike Stobbe and Ernie Mortensen
• Hayseed VI. by Earl Boebert

Volume 10, Number 3 – Winter 2006-2007

• 2006 National Vintage Regatta Report. by Harry Mote
• Traditional Watercraft Regatta. by Buck McClellan, Alan Suydam, and George Sergent
• Young America Goes Yachting. by Earl Boebert
• Dreams of the Old Marbleheaders Live on. by Stephen Crewes
• Adventures in Cold Molding. by Earl Boebert Read on usvmyg.org
• Kiltie . by Earl Boebert – 6-meter drawings
• Dodge and Dodge Again. by Earl Boebert
• Highgate Park. by Earl Boebert – illustration of early sailing
• A Major New Publication by Curved Air Press. by Earl Boebert

Volume 10, Number 2 – Fall 2006

• V36 Class Notes (rule proposal). by Alan Suydam
• Vintage Down Under. by Stephen Crewes (Australia, 2006)
• Getting Our Feet Wet for the 2007 US–UK Free Sail Regatta. by Ernie Mortensen
• Sea Gull launched. by Kenneth Hall
• How to Repair a Split Plank. by Mike Stobbe Read on usvmyg.org
• Luthier’s and Instrument Maker’s Planes. by Kenneth Hall
• Building A Model Yacht Hull. by Anonymous (1953)

Volume 10, Number 1 – Summer 2006

• Self-Tacking Vane Gear for Model Sailing Yachts. Introduction by Earl Boebert and text by John Black (1941)
• Windling World. Mark Steele
• Plank on frame construction of a traditional fin keel boat. by Thomas Darling with an introduction by Earl Boebert
• Afterward: Miserable Rabbett. by Earl Boebert

Volume 9, Number 3 – Winter 2005-2006

• Onward, Big and Little (10-Raters). by Earl Boebert
• The US VMYG Vane. by Earl Boebert
• Yankee III Update. by Earl Boebert
• Multiconic Design of Hull Surfaces. by S.S. Rabl (1958)
• Model Sailboats: The Technical Side of a Fascinating Hobby. by Samuel S. Sanford (1930)

Volume 9, Number 2 – Fall 2005

• 2005 National Regatta Report. by Earl Boebert
• Workshop Hints and Tips. by Fred Abbe, Earl Boebert, Charlie Roden, Mike Stobbe, and Alan Suydam.
• An Auxiliary Cruising Schooner. by Earl Boebert
• 2005 Traditional Watercraft Regatta Report. Buck McLellan
• Bob Irwin and the A. J. Fisher Co. by Dick Hein
• DN 36 : A Model Racing Sailboat. by Anonymous (probably Archie Arroll ~1935) – drawings and instructions

Volume 9, Number 1 – Summer 2005

• US-UK Challenge Regatta 2005. by Graham Reeves and Martin Bandey – review and pictures of 36-inch vane boats
• Model Sailboat Building in Portland, Oregon, Grade Schools Circa 1950: The Sandra Lee & Sun Kiss . by Paul Stager
• Faith – A Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter. by Douglas Phillips-Birt (1962)
• Square Rigged Notes. by George Steele
• Lilliputian Cup Defenders. by Harry Dillon Jones (1900)
• Sail Making for Model Yachts. by Thomas Darling (1925)

Volume 8, Number 3 – Winter 2004-2005

• Porty . by C. G. Butler and Earl Boebert – line drawings for simple sloop
• A Model of Dodge. by Earl Boebert
• Ben Bow. by William Atkin (1929)
• Yacht Sails. by Terrance North (1939) – names and drawings of different types of sails
• The Vintage 36-in Class. by Alan Suydam
• Whirlwind Jr. by Earl Boebert – drawings and instructions

Volume 8, Number 2 – Fall 2004

• 2004 National Regatta Report. by John Atwood
• Satanita . by Earl Boebert (1893) – largest and fastest cutter ever built
• Donald Duck . by Earl Boebert – Henry Tucker M class design plan
• An Inexpensive Bench Block. by Dave Querin
• Thermopylae : A Sailing Model Clipper Ship. by Graham Henley (1950) – plans and instructions

Volume 8, Number 1 – Summer 2004

• The Keel Catboat Dodge. by Earl Boebert
• Model Yachts: How to Design and Build Them. by Arthur C Hyde (1885) Read on usvmyg.org

Volume 7, Number 3 – Winter 2003-2004

• 2004 Museum of Model Yachting Activities. by John Snow
• R/C Vintage Marblehead (VM) Ratings Rules. by Charlie Roden
• Simple Model Yacht Theory. by A.M. Colbridge (1952)
• Snipe Junior . by W. M. F. Crosby (1932) – 20-in racing model plans and instructions
• Modified “R” Class plan that meets VM class rule

Volume 7, Number 2 – Fall 2003

• Twenty Vintage Marbleheads Launched. by Charlie Roden – model sailboat mentoring project
• Early DX Class History and Sailboat Innovations. by Francis Reynolds
• 2003 Vintage Marblehead Regatta Report. by Alan Suydam
• The New Vintage 36 Class. by Alan Suydam
• Another Small Class: The MM 25-inch vane sailor. by Earl Boebert – plans and instructions

Volume 7, Number 1 – Summer 2003

• 2003 US-UK Challenge Cup. by Earl Boebert and Jeff Stobbe
• The Davison Trip Tracking Gear. by A.C. Davidson (1942)
• Skylark . by F.C. Tansley (1950) – 36-in restricted class – drawings and instructions
• Line Drawings for 24-in Sharpie. by John Cavileer (1923)
• 2003 National Regatta Report. by Alan Suydam
• Steve Crewes Does It Again. by Earl Boebert
• A Developed – Surface Sailing Model. by William F. Crosby (1944) – plans and instructions for 24-inch sloop

Volume 6, Number 3 – Winter 2002-2003

• The American Model Yachting Collection (Mystic Seaport). by John Snow
• 2002 Vintage Traditional Watercraft Regatta Report. by Annie Michnowicz and Richard Rogers
• The Pirate Model Yacht and the Little Pirates program. by Scott Rohrer
• R/C for little P irate. by Rod Carr
• The R Class. by Earl Boebert
• Bill Bithell Inducted into the AMYA Hall of Fame
• The Most Beautiful Model Yachting Book – – Ever. by Earl Boebert
• Afterward: Modern Materials supplement. by Earl Boebert.

Volume 6, Number 2 – Fall 2002

• The American Model Yachting Collection. by Earl Boebert
• Modeling Black Hawk. by Earl Boebert and Harry Mote
• Region One Vintage Marblehead Invitational Regatta. by Bill Hagerup
• The San Francisco Marblehead Invitational. by Jeff Stobbe
• 2002 VM National Regatta. by Earl Boebert
• Traditional Sailing Craft Regatta. by Parker McClellan
• Fittings and Rigs. by Earl Boebert – description and history of numerous commercial and self-made parts, including various rigging diagrams
• Shroud adjuster MK 3. by Joe Frasier
• Yankee III Fittings. by Earl Boebert

Volume 6, Number 1 – Spring/Summer 2002

• Vamarie.  by Harry Mote – Line drawings and history.
• The Gypsy Sloops. by Earl Boebert – plans for small boats
• The in the Water Model Boat Show and Vintage Regatta. by Charlie Roden
• A Modified Horizontal Lift Method and Two Model Offers You Can’t Refuse. by Harry Mote
• Book Review – Sydney’s Model Racing Skiffs – A History (Stephen Crewes). by Earl Boebert
• A Yacht Model for Racing. by Captain E. Armitage McCann (Reprinted from Popular Science July and August 1926) – 20-inch boat plans and instructions

Volume 5, Number 3 – Winter 2001/2002

• Schooners and Scale News. by Harry Mote
• 2001 VM National Regatta and Museum Exhibit. by Thom McLaughlin
• The Y ankee Jr. Project. by Earl Boebert
• Overlapping Jibs on Small Scale Model Yachts. by Earl Boebert
• Model Yacht Construction Over a Solid Form. by Ted Houk (1941) and Rod Carr (2001)

Volume 5, Number 2 – Fall 2007

• The Third Annual San Francisco Model Yacht Club Marblehead Invitational. by Jeff Stobbe
• Mystic Seaport Model Yacht Regatta. by John Snow
• UK Report – San Francisco Model Yacht Club racing in the UK. by Jeff Stobbe
• Traditional Sailing Craft Scale Models Regatta at Mystic Seaport. by Harry Mote
• Andrew Charters’s Method of Tacking Overlapping Jibs. by Harry Mote
• US VMYG at The Wooden Boat Show. by Al Suydam
• Nina and Her “Radical Rig”. by Harry Mote
• Model Yacht Building at the WoodenBoat School. by Thom McLaughlin
• Turnbuckles and Bottle Screws. by Jack McKie and Vic Smeed Read on usvmyg.org
• A Miniature Model Yacht. by Earl Boebert – Wilson Theobald plan

Volume 5, Number 1 Spring/Summer 2001

• More Six-Foot Schooners. by Tom Pratt
• Atlantic – The Schooner yacht as a Model. by Harry Mote
• The Search for the Sydney Model Yacht Continues. by Steve Crewes
• Make Shavings, Not Sawdust . by Earl Boebert Read on usvmyg.org – about hand planes and chisels
• Yankee Jr. John Black’s Lost Design. by Earl Boebert

Volume 4, Number 3 – Winter 2000-2001

• Dorade – The Sailing Yawl. by Earl Boebert and Harry Mote
• Vintage Marblehead Coordinator Report. by Charlie Bloom
• The International A Class in the United States. by Rod Carr
• The Braine Steering Gear. by Charles Farley (1946)
• Gyeing The Model Yacht. by Walter K. Moss (1940)
• Free Sailing in the Radio Age. by Earl Boebert with thoughts by Thom McLaughlin

Volume 4, Number 2 – Fall 2000

• The Second Annual San Francisco Marblehead Invitational Regatta . by Jeff Stobbe
• Vintage Marblehead Coordinator’s Report. by Charlie Roden
• 2000 Vintage M Regatta Report. by John Snow
• Traditional Sailing Craft Scale Model Regatta Report. by Harry Mote
• Spring Lake Open Attracts 11 Marbleheads. by Harry Mote
• Scaling Laws. by George Steel
• The Masthead Fly. by Charles Roden
• In Search of the Sydney Model Yacht. by Steve Crewes
• Sailing Spreckles Lake. by Earl Boebert
• The Lateral Plane of Model Yachts. by Paul Fiske (1946)

Volume 4, Number 1 – Spring 2000

• Six Foot Schooners. by Andrew Charter with introduction by Harry Mote
• Old Lithograph. Oldest known picture of model yachting (June 1880)
• Model Yacht Outreach. by Harry Mote
• Never Trust a Blueprint. by Reginald Wood Butcher (1946)
• The Ancient Mariner Speaks. – Questions and Answers
• The Model Sailing Yachts of Franklin Bassford. by Earl Boebert

Volume 3, Number 3 – Winter 1999/2000

• Thoughts on Guidelines for Schooner Static Judging. by Harry Mote
• Book Review – An Introduction to Radio Controlled Scale Sailing Model (Phillip Vaughn Williams). by Harry Mote
• Vintage Marblehead (VM) Coordinator’s Report. Proposed rule changes. by Charles Roden
• Book Review – A Bibliography of Model Yachting (Russell Potts). by Earl Boebert
• A Marblehead Model Sailing Yacht. by Claude Horst – update of Horst’s pamphlet with plans and instructions

Volume 3, Number 2 – Fall 1999

• Nathanael Herreshoff ‘s Vane Gears. by Nathanael Herreshoff with comments by Earl Boebert
• San Francisco Invitational Regatta Results. by Jeff Stobbe
• US VMYG National Regatta Report. by Alan Suydam
• Pond Yacht Building Course. by Thom McLaughlin
• Technical Supplement – Excerpts from Thomas Moore’s Build a Winning Model Yacht. (1928) Read on usvmyg.org
• Curved Areas, Versed Sines, Trochoids, and the Wave Theory. by Earl Boebert Read on usvmyg.org

Volume 3, Number 1 – Spring 1999

• Vintage M Coordinator Report. by Charles Roden – proposed rule changes
• Vintage Northwest. by Rod Carr
• Daisy: History and development of vane steered cutter. by Jonathon Klinghorn
• Old A Boat to Be Sailing Soon . by Stan E. Delo
• Sailing Spreckels Lake. by Jeff Stobbe
• Camelot East Regatta a Great Success. by Milt Thrasher
• Book Review. Sunday Sailors. A Beginners Guide to Pond Boats and Model Yachting Until the 1950’s (Don Kihlstrom). by John Snow
• A Few Comments on Jibs. by Charlie Roden
• The Ancient Mariner Answers Your Questions
• Speed Rigging (Braine steering) by George Baron (1937)
• Vane steered free sail boats by Charles Farley (1945)

Volume 2, Number 3 – Winter 1998/99

• We Attend Christchurch’s 100 th . by Earl Boebert
• Features of an “ideal” Pond Boat. by George Steele
• Magic – Dedicated to All Model Yacht Wives. by Jeanne Stout Burke
• This Old Pilot Schooner. by Harry Mote
• Vintage Marblehead Coordinators Report. by Charlie Roden
• How Smooth Does Your Bottom Have to Be? by Charlie Roden
• The Ancient Mariner Answers Design Questions
• Sailboat Lifter/Launcher. by Jim Gray
• Book Review. Pond Models – Some Simple Thoughts on Building and Sailing Them (M. de Lesseps). by Thom McLaughlin
• A Simple Self Tacking Vane. by Earl Boebert

Volume 2, Number 2 – Summer 1998

• A Birthday Bash: The San Francisco Model Yacht Club Turns 100. by Dominic Meo, III
• Mill Pond Centennial 1998, Port Washington, Long Island, New York. by Jim Dolan and John Snow
• Free Sailing. by George Steele
• A Proposal for a New Event. by Earl Boebert
• What Should We Call That? by Rod Carr
• More on Rudders and Flaps. by Russell Potts
• Foam Board as an Aid to Construction. by Jim Gray
• An Old Pilot Schooner. by Helvig Dronquist

Volume 2, Number 1 – Spring 1998

• Book Review – Model Sailing Yachts by W. J. Daniels and H. B.  Tucker (1951). by Chris Cafiero
• Traditional Sailing Craft/Scale Model Regatta. by Harry Mote
• More on Rudders and Flaps. by Earl Boebert, Harry Mote, and Grant Slinn
• The San Francisco Model Yacht Club – Model Yachting in California. by Chester Chapman (1903)
• History of San Francisco Model Yacht Club. by Don Lyon (1945)
• A Profile of Don R. Lyon. by C. G. Gallagher (1948)
• Stop Burning Your Fingers. by Ian Scott
• Silver Soldering. by Earl Boebert
• Swaged Fittings for Model Yachts. by Jim Gray
• A Twenty-Five-inch Sailing Sloop (building plans) designed and described. by Claude Horst

Volume 1, Number 3 – Winter 1997-1998

• American Model Yachting Publishing (1971–1997). by Rod Carr
• 1997 Vintage Activities Summary. by John Snow
• Southeast Area Vintage Comments. by Thom McLaughlin
• Martha’s Vineyard Free-Sailed Model Yacht Regatta. by Jim Dolan and John Snow
• Vintage “M” (VM) Class design rules. by John Snow
• Starlet . by John Black (1942) – detailed construction plans and instructions for “a 36/600 vintage sharpie

Volume 1, Number 2 – Summer 1997

• R/C Vintage “M” Class Racing Rules Format for Redd’s Pond. by Earl Boebert
• R/C for Vintage Yachts. by Joe Frasier – basic guidelines, prior planning, components, construction, rigging, antenna
• Woods Hole Model Boat Show. by Jim Dolan and John Snow – a description of experiences and exhibits at this bi- annual model yacht exposition
• Redd’s Pond. by Jim Dolan and John Snow – a history of Redd’s Pond starting in the 1600s
• The Myth of the Bounteous Board. by Charlie Roden – incidents at the WoodenBoat Show

Volume 1, Number 1 – Spring 1997

• Building and Sailing the Cheerio. by Alan Suydam
• Toy Yachts and Yachty Characters. by Charley Williamson
• What Do You Want? Information… by Earl Boebert – Gus Lassel, Ted Houk, Mill Pond MYC
• New US VMYG Division: Traditional Sailing Craft. by Harry Mote –  R/C Schooner Racing and Display Rules; Traditional Sailing Craft Scale Models; Schooners; Argonauts R/C  Schooner Fleet; R/C Scratch-built, Plank on Frame Schooners with Bulbs and Large Rudders Permitted; R/C Fiberglass Schooner Hulls Scratch Completed with Bulbs and Large Rudders Permitted
• Zip A Marblehead Class Model Racing Yacht. by George Baron.

Things to Do in Elektrostal, Russia - Elektrostal Attractions

Things to do in elektrostal.

• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• 4.0 of 5 bubbles & up
• Good for Kids
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Good for Couples
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Big Groups
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Hidden Gems
• Adventurous
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Electrostal History and Art Museum

2. Statue of Lenin

3. Park of Culture and Leisure

4. museum and exhibition center.

5. Museum of Labor Glory

7. Galereya Kino

8. viki cinema, 9. smokygrove.

10. Gandikap

11. papa lounge bar, 12. karaoke bar.

• Statue of Lenin
• Electrostal History and Art Museum
• Park of Culture and Leisure
• Museum and Exhibition Center
• Museum of Labor Glory

ELECTROSTAL HISTORY AND ART MUSEUM: All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos)

• (0.19 mi) Elektrostal Hotel
• (1.21 mi) Yakor Hotel
• (1.27 mi) Mini Hotel Banifatsiy
• (1.18 mi) Elemash
• (1.36 mi) Hotel Djaz
• (0.07 mi) Prima Bolshogo
• (0.13 mi) Makecoffee
• (0.25 mi) Amsterdam Moments
• (0.25 mi) Pechka
• (0.26 mi) Mazhor