starwind 15 sailboat

Precision: Small, Fast, and Fun

Small, fast, and fun.

Cruisers | Daysailors | Crossover | Frequently Asked Questions

We have designed our share of large yachts, but our enthusiasm for small boats remains undiminished. Small-boat sailors derive every bit as much satisfaction from their modest craft as jet-setters do from their big ones, and we approach our smaller designs as no less significant, only less big. We take great pride in applying the same standards to all our work.

We are also proud of our long term association with Precision Boatworks, www.precisionboatworks.com which began in 1984 with the Precision 18 and continued until they ceased new boat production 35 years later. Precision shared our commitment to, and pride in, doing small boats well. Their tooling was exquisite, and it produced attractive, stylish, high quality molded parts throughout their model line, from the Precision 15 to the Precision 23. They built to an equally high standard, with materials that are chosen and used carefully, and with quality rigging and hardware that is appropriate for the intended use. Their boats were carefully built to their designed weights, and they are rugged, reliable, and long lasting. Stylish looks, lively performance, and fun sailing are all top priorities for both designer and builder on all Precision sailboats.

The essential ‘Precision DNA’ that is central to the performance, style, modest draft and easy trailering of each Precision model is common to them all, but there are differences that give them their individual appeal.

The Precision cruisers all feature a keel/centerboard underbody that combines modest draft when with the board is up, with excellent windward performance when the board is down. The ballast is secured deep in the fixed keel cavity to maximize stability. The board itself is only heavy enough to drop on its own, so that it can be raised and lowered with one hand, and so that stability is not reduced significantly when it is up.

Precision 18

The Precision 18 was designed to be the smallest boat that could be practically cruised, and still be easily trailered by a relatively small car. She has a remarkably loyal following, and is still in active production after nearly 30 years.

Precision 21

Not too big, not too small, and for some, just right. Designed to fit right between the Precision 18 and Precision 23, the Precision 21 was intended to appeal to sailors requiring neither the minimum cost of a mini-, nor the extra space of a maxi-trailerable. I recently encountered a Marblehead family of four going out for an evening sail, and they could hardly have been happier or more complementary about their boat. They said that their Precision 21 suits them perfectly.

Precision 23

Targeted to be the biggest cruiser that could be practically trailored behind a family car, the Precision 23 is an enduring benchmark for her size and type. She has successfully completed some surprisingly long passages, and has earned an impressive number of rewarding wins in club level racing.

Precision 27-28

The P-27 became the P-28 with the addition of a swim step in an extended transom.  These were only boats in the Precision line that featured an inboard diesel auxiliary and optional wheel steering.  This step up in specification proved to be a challenge for their dealer network at the time, so not a lot were produced, but the boats are comfortable and sailed well, and are quite popular with their owners.

The Precisions daysailors have especially large cockpits, and no cuddy cabins. They are both built in two versions, one as a crew ballasted pure centerboarder for ready trailering, and another that is a bit heavier with a fixed lead keel for added stability.

Precision 15 and Precision 15K

The Precision 15 was intended as an entry level family boat, with pricing and practicality to suit. Precision 15’s are easy to rig, easy to handle, and rewarding to sail. They achieve a nice balance between rewarding performance and reliable seakeeping, which they combine with ample stability. In addition to facilitating family fun, Precision 15’s are in wide use as trainers in community sailing programs.

Precision 185 and Precision 185K

The Precision 185 expands on the broad appeal of her smaller sister by adding an extra dose of acceleration and speed to her performance profile. She was recognized by Sailing World magazine as a Boat of the Year for her “combination of good sailing characteristics, substantial construction, and reasonable cost.” Her swim platform at the transom contributes to the fun by getting swimmers back aboard more easily and allowing youngsters to trail their toes in water. This ‘back porch’ can also contribute to safety by facilitating boarding from a dinghy, and recovering from an accidental ‘man overboard’ incident more easily and quickly. For some sailors, the Precision 185K keel version may be better suited for deeper, less sheltered waters.

Transit 380

The T_380 design ( www.transit380.com ) is intended to suit young sailors who are making the transition from the single-handed Optimist pram to high performance double-handed dinghies. Most kids ‘size out’ of the Opti at about 115 pounds, and between the ages of 11 to 14. After years of sailing alone in prams, many are also looking forward to sailing together with friends. Many do not yet have the sailing skills and experience required to handle a Club 420, however, and expecting them to do so is a bit like handing a new driver the keys to a Porsche. For decades, the Blue Jay and Widgeon (among others) have filled this gap, but time and technology have long since passed these boats by. The Transit_380 brings modern materials and carefully ‘kid centered’ design detailing to a contemporary version of this transitional mid boat.

Precision 165

Precision 165 combines the low trailer weight and reasonable cost of a daysailor with the ‘get out of the weather’ cuddy cabin and on-board toilet facilities of a small cruiser. She is offered with a fixed lead keel only, and performs very nicely with just a 21 inch deep draft. The term ‘crossover’ may be overused these days, but it does describe the appeal of the Precision 165 especially well.

The C-26 ( www.colgate26.com ) was built under contract by Precision Boatworks , and marketed by Steve Colgate. The boat was originally designed as a trainer for Steve’s well known Offshore Sailing School, and is very much a collaboration between Steve and Doris (basic concept and specifications), Jim Taylor (design detailing), and Precision (tooling and construction). The C-26 was so well received that she was soon marketed directly to the public, and she was recognized by Sailing World magazine as a Boat of the Year . SW judge Bill Lee wrote, “Not only did I find the Colgate 26 to be a good trainer but also I found myself applauding her for being an excellent sailboat in her own right. (She) appears (ruggedly built) relative to most modern sport boats and I found … excellent glasswork and construction quality with good attention to detail…She represents tremendous value on today’s market.” The C-26 was chosen by the US Coast Guard, US Navy, and Maine Maritime Academies for both instruction and intercollegiate competition, and she is in active production (now by Waterline Systems) with nearly 400 boats built to date.

FAQ’s ABOUT SIMILAR TAYLOR DESIGNS

Before our association with Precision Boatworks, we designed several other small cruisers that were produced by various builders, none of which currently provide support or parts to current owners. We are often asked about them, and offer the following background:

Spectrum 22

Chronologically the first of these small trailerable designs, she was commissioned by Spectrum Yacht Corp, which had a modestly successful production run. (See Spindrift 22, below)

Starwind 19

Wellcraft commissioned the Starwind 19 in the early ’80’s, and did a nice job building a lot of them (400?) before they realized that they could make much more money per square foot of factory space building powerboats. They built good quality boats to our Starwind 19 and Starwind 27 designs, before they went back to all power. The Starwind 223 was not our design.

Spindrift/Starwind

Rebel Industries bought the molds for the Starwind 19 and Spectrum 22, and built a handful of boats, not always wisely or well. They marketed the Starwind 19 variously as the Starwind 19, Starwind 190, and Spindrift 19, but left the boat essentially unchanged from the orginal Wellcraft version. They retooled the Spectrum 22 without our permission or input, as the Spindrift 22.

Review of Starwind 15

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Starwind 15 is about 52 kg/cm, alternatively 294 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 52 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 294 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

Maintenance

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Starwind 15 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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Starwind - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data directory for sailboats manufacturer or named Starwind. Follow the provided links for additional sailboat data, parts and rigging specs.

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• Sailboat Guide

1986 19' Starwind 19

• Description

Seller's Description

Hull: Boat has been in fresh water its entire life (on Lake Lanier prior to Lake Murray) and has zero rust on stainless hardware. Hull is structurally sound with only a few minor stress cracks. Deck is fiberglass with foam core- no soft spots or core rot present. Boat does not leak. Gel coat is good on the hull, the deck could use some polishing. Bottom is gel-coat no bottom paint. Teak is weathered but intact. Swing up rudder in great condition. Keel is lead encapsulated and in good condition. Retractable centerboard in good condition, pendant was replaced in 2017 with new line and hardware.

Rigging: Standing rigging is older but in good condition with zero rust. Halyards replaced 2019 and sheets replaced 2017. Aluminum mast in good condition and has windex and topping lift along with attachment for whisker pole which is included in sale. Has tabernacle on base for easy mast raising- can be done single handed. Also included is crutch for mast-down transport. Chainplates are in good condition. One internal wooden bulkhead was replaced prior to my ownership, other is original and in good condition. I have sailed this boat in 20 mph winds with zero rigging issues.

Sails: Sails are original to boat, but are in good condition. Somewhat stretched out but very usable for day sailing and cruising. Includes Main and 100% jib with sail covers for both which are in very good condition.

Cabin: Cabin is in very good condition and includes full set of cushions, porta potty, and some safety gear. Forward hatch is opening and makes sleeping onboard very comfortable. Have slept two people onboard for three days easily. Also included (if desired) is portable stove that can be used in the cockpit.

Equipment: Electrical: Boat was rewired in 2015 prior to my purchase and all lights and devices work. Includes bow, stern, and mast navigation light along with built in VHF radio and antenna. Cabin center light works as does the fan. Also in the cabin are LED lights beside V-berth which provide excellent light. Includes AGM house battery and small solar panel with charge controller to maintain battery.

Motor: Motor is 1996 4 HP Johnson Sea Horse model with 25 shaft. Motor is 2-stroke with 2 cylinders which means it runs very smooth for such a small motor and only weighs about 27 lbs. Will push boat at hull speed at half throttle easily. Motor had new impeller and lower unit oil change with new spark plugs in May 2020 and is in excellent condition. Sale includes two 3-gallon tanks with hoses. Motor is very economical and has always been used with ethanol free gas. Motor bracket on boat in good condition.

Trailer: Trailer is older galvanized trailer that has been redone in my ownership including: new bunks and rollers in 2017, new LED lights with wiring in 2017, new hubs/bearings and tires (with spare) in 2020. I have launched this boat in many different locations and this trailer is perfectly set up. Pulls easily behind small SUV (I use Ford Escape). Overall trailering weight about 2500 lbs.

Other: Sale includes many spares, extra items, tow straps, and records associated with boat. I have owned this boat for almost 6 years and have sailed it regularly in many conditions. It sails excellent in light wind but can handle the heavy stuff. Boat is very dry when sailing and has the capability of a bigger boat with the feel of a smaller boat. With the centerboard down, this boat sails to weather easily and downwind the whisker pole enhances the experience. I am happy to show the new owner how to rig and raise/lower the mast.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Starwind was a division of Wellcraft Marine. (USA) When Wellcraft left the sailboat business, the molds were sold to another builder and few more boats were built and sold as the STARWIND 190, and later still, the SPINDRIFT 19.

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Crazy first time out on my sailboat today

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So where do I begin? I bought a 83 Starwind 19 early in September. It was cheap and was a single owner boat. The PO died last year and the boat had been sitting for a while. I replace the winch, bow stop, and put better tires on the trailer. I step the mast in my driveway and see 2 of the shrouds need replacing and the forstay while I'm at it because that's an important one. I get my new rigging back and run out of time with my friend trying to get it in and have to return home without getting it in. (I've always wanted to sail, read some books, done some help out sailing cruises but nothing of substance) Fast forward to today. I have another friend that has sailing experience (good for me) and the weather is great so I'm up for get this boat wet today. He asks if I mind if his wife, friend, friends wife and baby come along because they are in town for a few days and arrived today. Sure no problem. So it's 5 adults and a baby. After trailering it to the water, setting up rigging, outboard, etc, I finally get it in the water. I motor out to the open lake and we raise the main. I'm ecstatic, the boat is moving along and everyone is enjoying the view and the late afternoon sun is great. We're probably out about a half hour and I'm loving it! Then all hell breaks loose. My friend's wife says, hey is that water normal inside? I look in the companionway and the water is 6 inches deep. Yikes. Looks like it's rising and I don't have a bilge pump. After dropping the main, we fire up the outboard and make sure everyone has a life jacket. (Worst feeling ever, the water is filling and I'm afraid the boat may end up totally going down.) We get it back to the boat ramp and I get the trailer in quickly, pull the boat and it's crushing the trailer with weight and breaks the winch. It is hanging on the back of the trailer emptying water out of the aft scuppers. Pouring out. I had brought a second winch with me, turns out a great idea. We get it back on the trailer and take down the rigging. I tow it home and begin the inspection underneath. Nothing is leaking. The cabin has 8 - 10 inches of water in it after driving it home. I don't understand where the water came in so fast? It's the entire hull compromised? Ugh. I spent 2 hours with a shop vac getting the water out. I estimated from all the dumping out, probably 150 gallons of water. Here are some pictures because everyone loves pictures. I didn't get the ones that count of the water inside, I was too concerned getting water out instead of taking pictures. Any thoughts on what could have happened? I've owned power boats for the last 10 years, and also have a tritoon I bought new 2 years ago. Thanks!  

Attachments

MikePNJ said: . Any thoughts on what could have happened? ! Click to expand...

Did you replace the hoses from the cockpit drains to the through hulls and double clamp them. Could be something simple like old hoses and clamps needed replacing or something very common such as forgetting to put the bilge drain plug in place. If the scupper float on the cockpit drain failed the cabin would not fill up first as the water would be bubbling up through the cockpit drains around your feet unless the hoses had failed. If the centerboard trunk failed catastrophically then you usually would have had a flood of water pouring out of the bottom of the boat around the centerboard when you put it on the trailer.  

The entirety of the fiberglass is not compromised. You have just so many hull penetrations and one of them is leaking. It’s either at the penetration itself or, if a hose is attached, anywhere along it’s length. Does your vessel have a bilge drain plug? Was it installed, did it come loose?  

So the water is pouring out of the drains that lead out above the waterline. The boat is tilted back not fully on the trailer and the water was so high it was draining from the cockpit area. I was seated working the tiller and no water was inside near me on the floor but down below in the cabin the water was filling. I didn't see any water even dripping out anywhere after my 30 minute drive home. It was dark outside and I went in and had a quick dinner. No water in my driveway, on the road or anywhere. The boat had about 150 gallons of water inside it at this point. I saw small patches of darker wet on the hull but nothing was dripping or seeping water. I figured it should be coming out somewhere but nothing. There were some lake weed blooms inside not just straight water but I don't know if that was from the area that was sealed with plywood where the above seating is covering or entered from a hole. I never dropped the keel. It has a line just before the companionway entrance.  

I don't know if there is a bilge drain plug, I'll have to check that out. There are hoses inside that lead to above the water line to let water out through a bilge pump and for the sink drain. I'll need to get in and look at it later.  

Do you have any pics of how the centreboard trunk penetration is sealed from the interior of the boat? I am wondering if its possible the boat was overloaded/over trimmed to the point the centre board penetration was submerged. I guess you figured this out, but bring a bilge pump and bailing can. Your boat is under 20 feet, so it should have a capacity plate saying the total number of persons allowed on board. Its worth checking.  

Arcb said: Do you have any pics of how the centreboard trunk penetration is sealed from the interior of the boat? I am wondering if its possible the boat was overloaded/over trimmed to the point the centre board penetration was submerged. Click to expand...

If I remember correctly, the centerboard is sealed from the cabin, except possibly where its pivot pin is mounted in the centerboard 'pocket'. The line for controlling the centerboard, the pennant, runs through a hose from the cockpit sole to the below-waterline centerboard pocket. The sink drain hose T's into that hose. I think that connection is close to the waterline. Try checking that.  

Also, my manual bilge pump was located in the cabin, under that removable center panel of the v-berth. Not real convenient for single-handing.  

hard way to learn but would say honestly you were lucky given your cavalier approach to handling an unfamiliar boat. Rule 1: know your boat! None of us has any business taking a day party out until we know the basic condition of boat systems plumbing through hulls etc etc. Since things got wet empty out the wet gear clean her all up and get on your hands and knees with a flashlight and check things out. Dont be in a hurry..ask yourself what is That thing this gizmo that wire this hose then check the valves. Take a close look at hose couplings the sink drain (an under appreciated threat!) Jot down any problems. Then do a gear inventory count life preservers flares yadayada. Then prep yourself for a test launch with an experienced friend no guests crowds or babies! Ease the boat in and check all thruhulls drains etc secure the boat away from ramp and let her sit. Check all fittings and bilge again. When you are very sure the boat is remaining dry drop the centerboard 1/3 down and see if any seepage occurs anywhere. If all is well take her for a short run and if all is still well haul sail and take a short sail Return to dock and check everything again especially inside along gunnels, thru hulls (yes again!) If all is dry you did not find a leak or obvious flaw by being this thorough, you have a mystery to solve : what happened Last time! Until that issue is resolved and the boat secured you have no business taking anyone out in your boat. I strongly suggest you avoid being in a hurry to do anything on a boat practice foresight and due diligence always. Thereafter have fun but read Chapman's, Sailing Illustrated and at least three other good general sailing guides this winter until you realize just how truly lucky you were on that first trip. Best of luck with your boat and what can be a wonderful sport if aporoached responsibly. Fair Winds Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk  

oysterman23 said: test launch...Ease the boat in and check all thruhulls drains etc secure the boat away from ramp and let her sit. Check all fittings and bilge again. When you are very sure the boat is remaining dry drop the centerboard 1/3 down and see if any seepage occurs anywhere. If all is well take her for a short run and if all is still well haul sail and take a short sail Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I do agree, I wasn't planning a party cruise on the boat. The weather was scheduled to be sunny, warm with light winds. I live in NJ and it's November. I wanted to get the boat in the water once and see what was what. I was happy my friend was available so I could get it out. Last minute he asks if I mind if his 3 friends come along because they are in town for only a few days from England. I preferred not going solo so I agree if they didn't mind and knew it was the first time out on the boat. His friend also has sailing experience. The lake is a tiny lake with nobody out on it. I came prepared with tools, extra winch, extra tires, etc. I wouldn't say I just willy nilly decided to take the boat out. I had all proper safely equipment on board, just wish I had a bilge pump with me. Do I wish I did it different, sure but I was trying to get the boat in the water before having to wait another 5 months. I replaced 3 stays before taking it out and went over other aspects of the boat. It's my first sailboat but I'm not unfamiliar with boats. The only below water line hole is the one for the sink drain that comes to a valve. No water leaked out of the hull or that hole when it was sitting on the trailer with 8 inches of water in it. I will plug it anyway because I don't want any issues for something that doesn't need to be on the boat. Here are some photos of the centerboard and bilge area and hoses that contain the line to raise and lower the centerboard. I'm going to replace them and seal the hose. Also looking to see if the fiberglass areas around the centerboard could be an issue a wouldn't know until I replace the other hoses and test it wet again.  

MikePNJ said: Here are some photos of the centerboard and bilge area and hoses that contain the line to raise and lower the centerboard. I'm going to replace them and seal the hose. Also looking to see if the fiberglass areas around the centerboard could be an issue a wouldn't know until I replace the other hoses and test it wet again. Click to expand...

The good news is that a leak that bad should be easy to find. I had one that was would only show up when sailing and usually heeled over. After driving me crazy for over a year, when crawling around in the back of the boat checking the rudder cables, I found a crack in the bottom of the bilge pump hose as it made a sharp turn into the thru hull. Seems it only leaked water when the thru hull went under water at speed.  

The baby was wearing a PFD. She had it on before boarding the boat. I have 2 children of my own. In NJ it's required for 13 years old and under to wear it. I've owned boats for the past 12 years, have a slip I rent every year, I live 50 feet from the largest lake in NJ. (This year is a draw down year so that lake wasn't usable.) I took it to a tiny man made lake nearby. I don't know why everyone is thinking the baby wasnt wearing a PFD. I had jackets for everyone on board also.  

I took both my kids sailing as babies. My youngest is 4 and a half months and she has done lots of protected water sailing. This is the baby lifejacket I use. Rated 9lbs and up. https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5013-812/Baby-PFD  

Arcb said: I took both my kids sailing as babies. My youngest is 4 and a half months and she has done lots of protected water sailing. This is the baby lifejacket I use. Rated 9lbs and up. Click to expand...

Water pressure is an amazing thing. When submerged, water ingress was being pushed in, under pressure. When you hauled, it was just gravity draining it out, so I wouldn’t expect to find the leak that way. Could have been a small crack in a hose, leaking valve, loose clamp or even failed bedding on the thru hull. None would allow much water back out. The good news is you have a very limited number of places this could be occurring. I would update/upgrade them.  

Ok you don’t get it.....as evidenced by making excuses for what you did. You did something very unsafe. The CAPTAIN is the one who is responsible. Period Your decisions MUST always be made with safety in mind first. You failed to do that and were pressured by another person to take guests on an unproven to you boat you had never previously tested. You should have said no. So what is was a lake . so what it was calm. So what it was good weather You took out an untested boat you don’t know well with passengers and endangered everyone. Had someone gotten hurt or injured in this escapade who do you think would be held liable? YOU WOULD Thankfully nothing really happened. You get a second chance. If you don’t correct this poor judgement decision starting by owning it , you will repeat. The water is not forgiving, not prejudiced and should be respected. If not your life....than others. Sorry to be so blunt....b  

chef2sail said: Ok you don't get it.....as evidenced by making excuses for what you did. You did something very unsafe. The CAPTAIN is the one who is responsible. Period Your decisions MUST always be made with safety in mind first. You failed to do that and were pressured by another person to take guests on an unproven to you boat you had never previously tested. You should have said no. So what is was a lake . so what it was calm. So what it was good weather You took out an untested boat you don't know well with passengers and endangered everyone. Had someone gotten hurt or injured in this escapade who do you think would be held liable? YOU WOULD Thankfully nothing really happened. You get a second chance. If you don't correct this poor judgement decision starting by owning it , you will repeat. The water is not forgiving, not prejudiced and should be respected. If not your life....than others. Sorry to be so blunt....b Click to expand...

One additional item in the second pic in your post #12. That is a gate valve (and plastic!) and needs to be changed to a proper seacock.  

Thanks Jim, yeah that will be removed. No reason to drain a sink below the waterline. That's why we use Purell on board. No sink needed for quick bathroom usage.  

I really do not understand why many have the need to go off on topics like this. He asked for help on where the water was coming in. He obviously knew he should have checked the boat out better before he got in it, and certainly before a full complement of people were out on the lake. Then the holier than thou group jumps in and tells the guy who is on his first sailboat how a true "captain" would never make this mistake. It is kind of like going to church for the spiritual aspect and getting a sermon on politics. Recently saw a quote that has been attributed to many, but my favorite was Winnie the Pooh. "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience?....that comes from poor judgement". Give the guy as break. How many people here have not done some dumb ass stunt that has put ourselves or others at risk? Or do you lie to yourself about it?  

You don’t want to plug off the scuppers. Correct whatever is leaking. They are designed to drain the cockpit, if and when you get water aboard. It will happen. Most drain below the water line.  

I felt compelled to relate a story which originated the day of our first launch over 20 years ago. After splashing our boat in Midland, we motored and then sailed back to Honey Harbour where we would be keeping the boat. Before starting the 3 hour drive home, we went for a bite to eat. Before hitting the road, I suggested that we have one more quick peek at our new treasure. Removing the hatch boards, I immediately could see that the floor was awash. The OMC Saildrive motor has a drain plug which is opened for winterizing...the previous owner had not mentioned this. The plug was letting water in from the moment the boat was in the water but because the water was flowing into the channel to the bilge, we hadn't seen it. While we were eating, the water overflowed the bilge, at that time the boat did not have an automatic float switch. Had we not gone back to the ship for 'one last look', our boat would surely have flooded and sunk.  

The sink drain is a useless through hull hole IMO. In 1983 when the boat was new it might have been a good idea. I don't see the value in having a sink that expels water out through a possible area that could lead to water entering the boat unnecessarily. I have a small head on my other boat and we just use hand sanitizer to wash up with. I could keep the sink with a small waste water tank underneath also. No reason to release the gray water overboard. (Or under board in this case) Also plugging that hole will bypass the plastic valve and I can remove it and free up a few more cubic inches of space. Am I missing the value here? The back scuppers where I believe the water entered (I will be removing panels inside to access the drains and check it out later this week hopefully) also don't pose a lot of value. The PO must have used expandable drain plugs for this. They aren't threaded. I've had scuppers lead aft through the transom above the water line which makes tons of sense. That's why I didn't expect them to be facing under the stern. If you left the boat on a trailer I imagine those drains would let rain water out. I always keep my boats covered in and out of water. I may use drain plugs and make sure the holes in the cockpit run to the bilge. I also dont mind the bleach bottle idea as an option to bail it out. Additionally I'm going to replace the hose, the clamps and the line that controls the centerboard. I want to try and sort some of these issues before the winter. Next trip to the water will only be to check for water entering after I go through it again.  

It's your boat, but I think you're devaluing it by plugging those off. Most would want them and find the DIY approach as a yellow flag to other less identifiable oddities. Cockpit scuppers are supposed to allow a cockpit to drain overboard. It has to violate some best practice or code to block them off. A sink that doesn't drain calls into question why there is a sink installed at all. On many small sailboats, I see it filled with ice and storing beverages for the day sail. A drain would be nice. Captain's choice, but I would repair them correctly and you'd have little worry. The fact is, unless you grind back a 12 inch bevel, plug and re-fiberglass the hole, anything you do could also leak. p.s. I'm sure a bilge check will be on your list of things to do at every launch now. I do so every time I return to the boat, either at the slip or at anchor. It takes a second.  

Some thoughts on your plan if I understand it correctly. My 21 foot boat has neither a self draining cockpit nor a self draining sink. The boat has 0 through hulls. Not having a self draining sink is no big deal. The sink is removable and I just toss the contents over the side when required. Not having a self draining cockpit is a pain in the neck. It requires frequent bailing in anything but benign conditions. I have both a manual pump and a bleach bottle bailing can, we usually use the bleach bottle. Aside from being a pain in the neck on your boat, having a flooded cockpit would raise the centre of gravity on your boat as the cockpit is raised above the bottom of the hull. So raised centre of gravity plus free surface effect is going to impact your stability. My thoughts are, no big deal to plug the sink, but potentially problematic and even unsafe to plug your scuppers. Here is a pic of my non self draining cockpit after about 90 minutes of hard rain.  

As Minne hinted, a properly done plug is going to take much longer than a properly done in-kind repair/replacement. Those through-hulls are there for good reason. The scuppers are essential to safety (and required by ABYC standards). Water will get in your cockpit, even with a cover. And when the boat is in use, there are many ways that rainwater or seawater will get into the cockpit. It needs to drain out, or your boat will become dangerously out of balance. Having shifting ballast is dangerous - it always shifts to the low point of the boat, which is the opposite side from where you want it. Plugging your sink drain is similarly shortsighted. You'll need that sink for a lot more than washing hands. Suppose you do need to get into the bilge with Chlorox bottles or hand pumps to address a leak. Where is that water going to go? Are you really going to walk each cup of water out into the cockpit and throw it over the gunwale? You'll never keep up that way. You would put it in the sink. There is a lot of useful knowledge here. Take advantage of it. Many of us have different styles and levels of bluntness. If you have a know-it-all attitude, some here will throw that right back at you. After contributing here for 10-15-20 years, people sometimes get that way. That may not be the most effective, but it's human nature. That doesn't mean their points aren't right. I think you need to start listening more to the advice here. I'm not going to rant too much, but I do think taking that baby on an untested (and overloaded) boat was one of the dumbest things I've ever heard. Right as soon as I started reading your first post, when I got to that part I was screaming, "Noooooo!!!!!" PS - You must add a bilge pump.  

TakeFive said: Plugging your sink drain is similarly shortsighted. You'll need that sink for a lot more than washing hands. Click to expand...

My 15 foot picnic boat has a sink/ice chest which drains thru-hull below the water line which keeps the melting ice from sloshing around and spilling out into the cockpit or bilge and is a very good design point even on a boat without a cabin and as others mentioned it can be a life saver on a boat with a cabin allowing you to bail or use a hand pump to purge water directly into it and out of the boat. Scuppers below the water line with a proper venturie cap can greatly speed draining water out of the cockpit and get your boat more quickly back in balance after it takes a wave, etc. And electric bilge pump only works if the battery is still functional which may not be the case if its foaming over from getting salt water in it while the scuppers will work constantly and at times better than many bilge pumps especially if you have any forward motion plus they will keep working even if you are incapacitated. Serious consideration should be given before defeating the safety features built into a boat. The root cause of this incident is more likely poor maintenance and prep and not poor design. That boat is a very well proven design with thousands out of the water.  

Nice boat, I always liked the starwinds, solid designs for lake/trailer sailors. It sounds to me that your cockpit scupper hosts or through hulls are almost certainly toast. On most trailer boats they are plastic thru hulls. Get a couple stainless steel ones, some 5200, a couple new bits of hose and clamps, done. The idea that your cockpit isn't going to get wet and it will be fine draining into the bilge is pretty absurd in my opinion (no offense) and frankly dangerous. Why would you have a large open surface draining *into* your boat. Boats are meant to keep water out. Just fix them correctly and then you don't have to worry about what ifs (what if it rains while I am out, what if my cover leaks on the trailer, what if my bilge pump breaks or gets clogged. Plugging the sink isn't my style since I would again just fix it if it was broken. How are you going to "plug" it? Literally a plug in the drain hose? Stuck in the thru hull? Still got a hole in the boat and no reason your plug won't fail like anything else. Best fix is a seacock you can close unless you need it. About $80 gets you a proper marelon seacok/thru hull one and wouldn't take more than a half hour to install. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/plumbing/valves-and-seacocks Good luck and happy sailing!  

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New guy questions

• Thread starter Starboardport78
• Start date Apr 17, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
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Starboardport78

Hey everyone, I have just got my first sailboat. A Starwind 19 and I have no idea how to find the parts I need. It has not been sailed in a few years, and needs new standing and running rigging. I also need to fix a small hairline crack on the top of the stern. After all that I'm thinking of painting it, but not sure on the type of paint to use. Thanks for any information, it is very much appreciated .  

Timm R Oday25

A very cool coat to be sure . On another website here called TrailerSailor which requires a second user name and password is a poster Named Charles Brennan who bought a Starwind 19 new in the '70s . He would be an excellant source of information for you  

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

Starboardport78 said: Hey everyone, I have just got my first sailboat. A Starwind 19 and I have no idea how to find the parts I need. It has not been sailed in a few years, and needs new standing and running rigging. I also need to fix a small hairline crack on the top of the stern. After all that I'm thinking of painting it, but not sure on the type of paint to use. Thanks for any information, it is very much appreciated . Click to expand

Congratulations on your new boat. Definitely rerig the boat and do any repairs necessary, but if this is your first boat, do not waste your money on paint until you have learned to sail her, dock her and all those sorts of things.  

dlochner said: Congratulations! Enjoy your boat. A photo of the crack would be helpful. It could be nothing or it could be something. Photos help. Painting a boat and doing a good job at it, is a major undertaking. Some elbow grease with a good cleaner/polish and some wax will make the boat shine. Polish and wax is also a lot less expensive than good quality paint. Check out this thread for tips on a good finish. Tips For A Great Buff & Wax Buff Polish & Wax Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip) The Cliff Note Version: Steps: #1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary) #2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad)... forums.sailboatowners.com Click to expand

Thanks for the info. I will post a pic later today, we got 3 in of snow yesterday. Where would be a good place to look for riggings, and how do I know I’m getting the right stuff  

Starboardport78 said: Thanks for the info. I will post a pic later today, we got 3 in of snow yesterday. Where would be a good place to look for riggings, and how do I know I’m getting the right stuff Click to expand

Where is South Haven?  

shemandr said: Where is South Haven? Click to expand

Do you have the existing standing rigging? Making new standing rigging is infinitely easier if you have the old stuff. If you have such I would go ahead and rig it up and see how it goes together. If it's complete - and don't be surprised if it isn't - then you are pretty assured you have the dimensions nearly correct. (Watch out for overhead power lines). I agree with Capta. If you have rigging, and it isn't a mess, take it out sailing. See how it works before modifying it very much. Rigging can be expensive so if you don't like how the mainsheet system works, for instance, you can change it. Same with leads for the jib. Mast rake? It helps determine the balance of the helm. Spend time on the websites for Starwinds. BTW that seems like a lot of boat packed into 19'!  

That’s part of my issue. I can’t seem to find anything on how everything is supposed to look when set up correctly. I had the mast up but the wire rigging had a lot of slack and I don’t know what to do about it.  

Starboardport78 said: That’s part of my issue. I can’t seem to find anything on how everything is supposed to look when set up correctly. I had the mast up but the wire rigging had a lot of slack and I don’t know what to do about it. Click to expand

Thanks, I will look at everything when the snow melts today  

BTW, by the numbers that should be a pretty good sailor. Jim Taylor has done a number of well regarded designs such as the Colgate 26 and some of the Precision line. His email is www.tayloryachtdesigns.com . I'm pretty sure they can give you sources for information you may need. (All this info is from sailboatdata.com)  

You’ve most likely found this already: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/starwind-19 ,. That and pictures from Starwind 19’s for sale would help to show how things go. Loose standing rigging can be caused by a number of things. The previous owner may simply have eased everything off to make taking the mast down faster. An overlong forestay (too much rake) can lead to loose shrouds; tightening up the forestay will fix that. It looks like you have a deck-stepped mast. Compression (squishing) of the cabin top can make the standing loose too, especially in a boat this old. Look for cracks or bends in the cabin top in the way of the mast step and the bulkhead inside for indications of this problem. Try to avoid painting the boat (except perhaps for antifouling) if at all possible. Hopefully the topsides and deck haven’t been painted already. Gelcoat, even old gelcoat, is about ten times thicker than paint, and will last accordingly. Paint will get dinged, scratched and grow dull much more easily than gelcoat. It is a LOT of work to paint a boat. Because of the watery environment, regular housepaint preparation and materials won’t last a season. Linear polyurethanes like Brightsides and others last longer, but require meticulous multi-step surface preparation. Even they will still have a hard time staying “like new” for long. Two-part polyurethanes, like Awlgrip last much longer - perhaps ten years. They require the same multi-step preparations as the linear paints, along with a primer undercoat and multiple topcoats. They cost more, are toxic, and have to be applied with the right atmospheric conditions (temperature, humidity, dust, wind...) in order to set and finish off properly. The problem is that even with the best paint, if you paint now, you will paint again. And it is a LOT of work to paint a boat. Others have suggested polishing and waxing the gelcoat instead. A much better idea.  

Here's a link to a page of images for the Starwind 19. Some of them might be helpful. The boat looks to have a pretty traditional sloop rig, with single spreader, slightly swept back with only cap shrouds and lowers. For tuning, look for guides on a rig that has those characteristics. images starwind 19 Jim Taylor is a good designer. His boats are attractive, with both contemporary and traditional elements. More importantly they sail well for their intended purpose. Full disclosure: I sail a Jim Taylor Design, the Sabre 362.  

Starwind 19 help

Starboardport78 said: ............ I'm thinking of painting it, but not sure on the type of paint to use. Click to expand

What bottom PAINT for a trailer sailor?

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STARWIND 19 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of STARWIND 19. Built by Chrysler Marine and designed by Jim Taylor, the boat was first built in 1982. It has a hull type of Keel/Cbrd. and LOA is 5.66. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.95. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

STARWIND 19 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about STARWIND 19 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the starwind 19.

STARWIND 19 was designed by Jim Taylor.

Who builds STARWIND 19?

STARWIND 19 is built by Chrysler Marine.

When was STARWIND 19 first built?

STARWIND 19 was first built in 1982.

How long is STARWIND 19?

STARWIND 19 is 4.75 m in length.

What is mast height on STARWIND 19?

STARWIND 19 has a mast height of 6.4 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

Fatal boat crash launched woman into trees and threw man into water, Florida cops say

A body pulled from trees was among two discovered after a 21-foot boat crashed near southwest Florida’s Little Hickory Bay, according to investigators.

It happened around 3 p.m. Friday, March 15, not far from North Naples, about a 160-mile drive south from Tampa, the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission said in a news release.

“The vessel, carrying two occupants, was traveling north, passing red channel marker 14, when it’s starboard side ran into the mangrove trees, ejecting both passengers,” FWC officials said.

“The unmanned vessel remained in gear until it crashed into the mangrove shoreline, coming to a stop.”

Judy Eaton, 71, of Bonita Springs “was recovered from the mangrove trees where she was pronounced deceased,” officials said.

John Moulder, 71, of Naples, was airlifted by EMS to Gulf Coast Medical Center in Ft. Myers, “where he later died from his injuries,” officials said.

The cause of the crash remains under investigation, but alcohol may have been a factor, investigators said in the report.

Boaters who use the area regularly told WBBH the couple died at a turn known to be dangerous, but signs marking the hazard vanished during Hurricane Ian , which struck southwest Florida in September 2022.

“Sadly, I was not surprised,” boater Kevin Price told the station. “I had a conversation with another friend recently about this turn specifically, and some of the close calls I’ve seen at this spot.”

Mysterious traveling buoy in Florida river raises concerns. What is it attached to?

Two girls found drifting alone in boat after adults vanished in Florida lake, cops say

Boat crashes into Florida bridge, leaving 10 people struggling in river, rescuers say

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