sailboat heeling over

What is Angle of Heel on a Sailboat

And, what Angle of Heel on a Sailboat is acceptable?

What is heeling over on a sailboat?

Heeling over or “heeling” on a sailboat is when it leans over.

Why does a sailboat heel over and why doesn’t it tip over?

Remember your tommee tippee cup? It had a rounded bottom and a weight loaded into the rounded bottom. No matter how much water you put in the cup, the weight at the bottom made sure the cup stood upright – and the rounded bottom meant that if you pushed it over, it would stand right back up.

Your finger pushing sideways on the top of the cup is just like the wind acting on the sails. The wind acting on the sails puts pressure on the sails. Pressure over the entire area of the sails creates a force. The greater the area, the greater the force, and the stronger the wind, the stronger the force. The distance the force is collectively acting on the sails is about 1/3 of the way up the sails. This point is called the center-of-pressure. This is like your finger pushing all the wind’s force at that center-of-pressure point. The sailboat, like the tommee tippee cup has no choice but to lean (heel) over.

The propensity for the sailboat to heel over depends on the height (distance) of the center of pressure above the water line. The physics formula for this is force x distance which equals a physics term called “moment” (not like a moment in time). The “moment” can be considered as the same as “torque” or even easier – as the “tipping force” or (heeling force). The greater the distance and force – the bigger the tipping force.

In high wind conditions, you can lower the center of pressure by spilling some of the wind out of the top of the sails by twisting out the sail at the top (done by easing the mainsheet which allows the boom aft to rise – thus creating less tension on the leech of the sail and allowing the top to twist out).

Twisting out the top of the sail has a double effect. There is less sail area presented to the wind at the top. This means a lower center-of-pressure (less height) and less area – giving rise to less tipping moment.

Another way to lower the center of pressure is to reef the sail (partially lower it). This also acts to reduce the area of the sail. Less area and less height of the center-of-pressure reduces the tipping force. Here is an image showing reefing and twisting effect on the tipping moment. The image also discusses how twisting and reefing moves the center-of-pressure forward. This has the added benefit of reducing what is known as weather helm – the boat wants to automatically turn up into the wind.

What stops the sailboat from completely tipping over?

A balance between gravity acting on the weighted keel and the wind force on the sail stops the boat from completely tipping or heeling over. As the boat heels over, the sail area is not upright and so less sail area is presented to the wind. Also as the boat heels over, gravity acting on the weighted keel that is rolling upwards with the heel of the boat creates a force to stand the boat back upright. At some point, both forces meet in agreement and compromise with a defined heeling angle.

Imagine the weighted keel is just like how your Tommee Tippee cup uses gravity to force the boat to stand back upright. Thus it becomes a balance between the boat being pushed over by the force on the sails and the weight of the keel trying to stand it back up.

See this animation below of the balance of forces. CLICK on the green Increase Wind button. You will see how the “righting force” increases as the weighted keel lifts outwards off the centerline. You’ll also see how the tipping force decreases because less sail area is presented face-on to the wind. It means that the righting force from the keel will always overpower the wind force at some angle of heel. This is not to say that sailboats never tip over, they do but only usually in cases of a massive unprepared-for gust (60+ knots), giant wave, or if they lose their keel. Dinghies of course do tip over from the improper balance of the crew.

What is an acceptable heel angle?

The acceptable angle of heel on a sailboat depends on various factors, including the design of the boat, its ballast, the boat’s purpose, and the prevailing conditions. Generally, here are some guidelines:

• Dinghies and Small Boats : Dinghies are designed to be agile and may heel significantly, especially when sailed aggressively. Capsizes can happen but are often a part of dinghy sailing.
• Cruising Sailboats : Most cruising sailboats are designed to be stable and comfortable. They typically perform best at an angle of heel between 10° and 20°. Once a cruising boat heels beyond 20°, its weather helm tends to increase, making it more challenging to steer, and the boat might not sail as efficiently.
• Racing Sailboats : Racers might push their boats harder, and some racing designs can handle more heel. Nevertheless, excessive heel can still decrease speed as more wetted surface (hull in the water) causes increased drag.
• Multihulls (Catamarans and Trimarans) : These vessels are designed to sail relatively flat. Heeling angles over 10° can be a cause for concern on a multihull. When a multihull starts to heel significantly, there’s a risk of capsize, especially if a hull lifts entirely out of the water.
• Keel Design : Boats with full keels tend to be more stable and resist heeling more than those with fin keels or lifting keels. However, once they reach a certain heeling point, full keel boats can be more challenging to bring back upright.
• Seaworthiness : Some boats, especially bluewater cruisers, are designed to be very seaworthy and can handle significant heel angles, even beyond 45°, without capsizing. Still, this doesn’t mean it’s comfortable or efficient to sail them at such angles.

Factors like gusty winds, big waves, and the condition of your sails (e.g., having a full mainsail up in strong winds) can also influence heel.

What to do if you are getting excessive heeling angle:

• Reef Early : Reducing sail area can help to decrease heeling and make the boat easier to control.
• Adjust Sail Trim : Flatten your sails by tightening the outhaul, cunningham, and backstay (if adjustable).
• Change Your Point of Sail : Sailing more downwind can reduce heeling, but be cautious about accidental jibes.
• Ease the Sheets : Letting out the mainsheet or headsail sheet can reduce power in the sails.

Lastly, the best way to understand how much heel is acceptable for your specific boat is to gain experience in various conditions and, if possible, consult with more seasoned sailors or trainers familiar with your type of boat.

This information was drawn from the NauticEd Skipper Course (for large keelboats) and the NauticEd Skipper Small Keelboat Course . Sign up now to learn the knowledge you need to know to effectively skipper a sailboat.

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Why Do Boats Heel? How Much Is Too Much

I have been sailing multiple times when the boat heeled over. It is an awesome feeling when you heel over. There have also been times when the boat heeled over and I was a little nervous about it capsizing.

Boats will begin to heel when there is enough force from the wind pushing on your sails. When heeling over, boats will have a better angle through the water creating more speed. Each boat is different and has a different optimal heel angle.

There is a lot of information when it comes to heeling over that you should be aware of.

How Much Should a Sailboat Heel?

As a general rule, the heel angle should be between 10 and 30 degrees. If the heel angle becomes greater than 30 degrees, it will increase the chances of capsizing.

Smaller boats will always be more prone to capsizing. They have less weight in their keels and the keel is what helps balance your boat. Balance is key when it comes to heeling over.

There are no guarantees that a boat will not capsize, although it is not very common.

A 22-foot sailboat can heel over so far, that the sails will lose all wind causing the boat to reduce its heel and gain its wind back. This will usually happen before the boat actually tips over.

Take a look at this video. At minute 4:34, the boat will heel over too far and the mainsail will start to flutter as the boat takes on water. The boat will bounce back up because of its keel and the mainsail will fill back up with wind.

Larger boats have a heavier keel and will be more sturdy when heeling over. I have been on a 30-foot Hunter Cherubini, where we sailed with the rails in the water for roughly 20 minutes.

This boat had a 4100-pound keel weight. The captain was never worried about capsizing due to the build of this boat. The keel is a crucial part of the boat when heeling over.

What Is The Purpose of a Keel?

The main purpose of the keel is to keep your boat balanced while sailing. If your boat is well balanced, it will have more speed through the water. It will also help prevent your boat from tipping over.

Keels carry the ballast, which is a large weight. They can weigh anywhere from 100 pounds to 5000 pounds and sometimes even more. They are an essential part of your boat and sailing without one would be nearly impossible.

My first sailboat (Catalina 22) had a swing keel for use with shallow water. This was a great learning opportunity for me. I was able to see how a boat handles with a keel versus how a boat handles without a keel.

Keels come in a lot of different shapes and styles. See the list below for the different types of keels.

The Different Types of Keels

• Full Keel – Runs the full length of the boat
• Fin Keel – A common keel, attached to the center of the boat
• Winged Keel – Has a shallower draft for shallow waters
• Bulb Keel – Keeps the ballast at the lowest point possible
• Bilge Keel – A boat with two keels on the bottom, this allows for an upright position at low tide
• Swing Keel – A keel that can be raised and lowered. Common on smaller boats.

All of these keels have advantages and disadvantages when it comes to sailing. For most people, having a specific keel will not be a priority when purchasing a boat.

How Do I Stop My Sailboat From Heeling? (Personal Experience)

There are multiple ways to stop your sailboat from heeling. The best way to stop the boat from heeling is by letting out your main sail. The alternate way to reduce heeling, is by turning into the wind more. Both of these options will reduce heel, by reducing wind pressure on your sails .

I have been in multiple situations on my boat when I was nervous about the heeling angle. I have used both of the options listed above and they both work great.

The first time I experienced heel on my boat, I was in a beam reach. The wind picked up suddenly and my boat began to heel about 35 degrees. This was my first time by myself in a heeling boat. It was a bit nerve-wracking. I turned into the wind pretty hard and the boat heel reduced itself pretty fast.

As I have sailed a lot more since then, I tend to heel quite a bit these days and see how far I can push it. The more you do it the more comfortable you become with it.

Boatlifehq owner and author/editor of this article.

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What To Do When a Sailboat Is Heeling Too Much (Explained)

Sailing is a fun activity for many people, but it comes with the innate prerequisite of being on the water rather than on stable ground. Aspiring captains must learn how to navigate and operate a boat while it rocks around in the water, which means dealing with things like heeling (i.e., leaning too far to the left or right). What do you do when your boat is heeling more than you can handle?

When a sailboat is heeling too much, you can ease or let out the sails to stop them from catching as much wind. This should greatly reduce heel. You can also redistribute weight on the boat to balance it out or use a boat that naturally heels less.

In this article, I will go into detail on some of the things you can do to mitigate how much a sailboat heels, as well as some other related topics. Read on if you’d like more information on sailboat heeling and how to reduce it.

Table of Contents

How a Sailboat is Made Can Affect Heeling

One of the biggest factors in how much a sailboat can heel is simply how the boat is made. Everything from the shape of the keel to the size of the boat impact how easily and safely it can heel.

If you find that your boat is consistently heeling more than you would like, it may just be how that particular boat is made. Some people actually prefer a sailboat that can heel easily, especially those who compete in boat racing, because it can increase a boat’s speed by allowing the sails to catch more wind.

As such, if you have a choice in the matter, try to look for a sailboat that’s made with stability in mind. Some boats are made specifically to handle heeling better and maintain stability, which will likely be an advertised feature as well as one that’s more in demand for recreational sailors.

The Keel Can Affect a Sailboat’s Propensity to Heel

Even if you don’t have the option of trying a different boat, you should still look yours over, especially the keel , which is the protruding piece at the bottom of the boat. 

The keel can vary greatly in appearance depending on what it’s built for, but some boats have keels specially designed to reduce heeling through means like catching on the water and counterbalancing the vessel.

You might not be able to easily replace or modify a sailboat’s keel, but you can at least check to make sure it’s working as it’s supposed to. If something important is damaged or broken off, this could impact your boat’s ease of control, especially when it comes to heeling.

Adjust the Sails to Reduce Heeling

The sails are the primary cause of heeling in a sailboat. 

A boat heels when its sails catch enough wind to pull it to the side and make it lean. This is usually fine but can put stress on the mast and risk capsizing your vessel in extreme cases.

The easiest way to stop this is by simply lowering the sails. If there’s nothing for the wind to catch on, your boat shouldn’t heel much, if at all. While this is a temporary solution unless the boat has another form of propulsion, it’s effective nonetheless. 

If the wind picks up while you’re out sailing and it starts causing your boat to lean more than you expected, taking down the sails for a while will let you wait it out.

Use a Motor When the Wind is Too Strong to Reduce Heeling

Speaking of alternative forms of propulsion, it’s a good idea to have a backup for when the weather doesn’t agree with sails. This way, any time a heavy wind starts tugging your sailboat around more than you’re comfortable with, you can just pull the sails in and start up the motor.

A boat being propelled mechanically can also go faster than one powered by the wind in its sails under the right circumstances. If you want more options for fast travel, this is another good reason to consider installing a motor on your boat. 

Just keep in mind that using both the sails and motor at once won’t necessarily make you go any faster.

Redistribute Weight to Lessen Excessive Heeling

Lowering the sails may be the best way to stop a boat from heeling, but this also means you will be going nowhere fast until the wind calms down unless you have another form of propulsion. 

If you want to reduce how much your boat is heeling without slowing down your sailing experience, one easy thing you can do is redistribute the weight on the boat so that it counteracts the wind pulling on the sails.

If your boat is being pulled to one side, have all passengers stand or sit on the opposite side to counterbalance it. If you don’t have any other passengers or this isn’t enough, try moving heavy cargo instead. This is unlikely to completely stop a boat from heeling, but it can mitigate the impact and limit how far the boat will heel.

Will a Sailboat Tip Over?

It can be difficult for passengers to deal with a boat heeling a few degrees more than they’re used to. After all, most people are accustomed to being on solid ground where the floor beneath them doesn’t shift and tilt at awkward angles. However, the concerning part for some is the idea that their sailboat could tip over and capsize.

A sailboat will tip over under the right circumstances. However, this is very unlikely unless the boat is in heavy wind or rough water, and many sailboats are designed to prevent heeling too much. Some sailboats are also able to right themselves when capsized.

Because capsizing is a possibility, a lot of sailboats have safety precautions implemented to help deal with excessive heeling. This doesn’t mean you should sail out into storms with reckless abandon, but it might put your mind at ease while sailing to know that your sailboat is probably made to stay balanced and even flip itself back over in the event of being capsized.

Check out the video below to find out more about reducing the heel angle on a sailboat:

What To Do When a Sailboat Is Heeling Too Much – Conclusion

It’s perfectly normal for sailboats to heel, but this can cause problems in more extreme cases. Not only is it difficult to walk around on a deck that’s slanted sideways, but it can also put the sailboat at risk of capsizing if the boat heels too much.

Fortunately, there are several things that can be done to mitigate how much a boat can heel as well as allow it to heel more safely. The suggestions made in this article are the easiest ways to “right the ship” as it were if heeling too much.

Bryan is a Las Vegas resident who loves spending his free time out on the water. Boating on Lake Mohave or Lake Havasu is his favorite way to unwind and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. More about Bryan.

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Mastering the Waves: How to Reduce Heeling When Sailing

• Sailing Basics

Sailing enthusiasts know that excessive heeling can make for an uncomfortable and potentially dangerous experience on the water. When the boat leans over at an angle due to wind pressure on the sails, maintaining control becomes challenging. But fear not! With the right techniques and strategies, you can minimize sailing heeling and enjoy a smoother ride on the waves.

One of the key factors in reducing heeling is adjusting sail trim and course. By making small tweaks to the position of your sails and the direction of your sailboat, you can significantly improve its stability. Additionally, reefing, which involves reducing the sail area, is another effective technique for minimizing heeling. By properly using the reefing lines, you can control your sailboat’s stability and prevent excessive heel.

Flattening the headsail and furling it more can also contribute to a flatter sail shape and reduce heeling. These adjustments are crucial for maintaining a balanced and stable sailboat. Additionally, steering techniques play a vital role, especially when sailing in waves. By steering at the correct angle and making small inputs, you can keep the boat stable and prevent excessive heeling.

Sailing in cross waves requires specific techniques as well. Taking the favored gybe and waiting for the seastate to reduce can contribute to a more stable sailboat and reduced heel angle. Furthermore, to reduce rolling in waves, tightening the leech on the mainsail and spinnaker, as well as using a tweaker line, can make a significant difference.

Sailing downwind in light weather presents its own challenges, as maintaining boat speed becomes crucial. By implementing the right strategies, you can reduce heeling and enjoy a smoother downwind sailing experience.

Table of Contents

Key Takeaways

• Adjusting sail trim and course is important for reducing heeling.
• Reefing can help minimize sail area and prevent excessive heel.
• Flattening the headsail and furling it more contributes to a flatter sail shape.
• Steering techniques are crucial for maintaining stability in waves.
• Taking the favored gybe and waiting for the seastate to reduce can enhance stability in cross waves.

Reducing rolling in waves can be achieved by tightening the leech on the mainsail and spinnaker and using a tweaker line. Lastly, when sailing downwind in light weather, anticipating wind direction and making necessary adjustments is key to maintaining consistent boat speed.

Adjusting Sail Trim and Course

One of the key factors in reducing heeling when sailing is to make adjustments to your sail trim and course. Properly adjusting the sails and steering can significantly improve the stability and control of your sailboat, creating a smoother and more enjoyable sailing experience.

When it comes to sail trim, small tweaks can make a big difference. Start by flattening the headsail to achieve a flatter sail shape. You can do this by moving the genny car back, which helps reduce the sail’s angle of attack and minimize heeling. Additionally, consider furling the headsail more to reduce the sail area exposed to the wind. This will not only reduce heeling but also help maintain a consistent boat speed.

Remember, when sailing downwind in waves, it is crucial to steer at a slight angle to the wave. This allows the boat to surf down the wave, increasing speed and reducing the chances of broaching or being rolled.

Steering techniques also play a significant role in reducing heeling. When sailing in waves that are not in the same direction as the wind, it is beneficial to take the favored gybe until the tide turns and the seastate reduces. This strategy helps maintain a more stable sailboat and reduces the heel angle. Additionally, when steering, it is essential to have a light touch with the rudder and make small, gradual steering inputs. This allows for better control and minimizes sudden movements that can contribute to excessive heeling.

To further reduce rolling in waves, consider tightening the leech on the mainsail and spinnaker. This helps maintain a flatter sail shape and reduces the chances of the boat rolling from side to side. Having a tweaker line to control the amount of twist in the spinnaker’s leech can also contribute to a more stable sailboat.

In conclusion, adjusting sail trim and course is crucial in reducing heeling when sailing. By making small adjustments to your sails, steering techniques, and sail area, you can achieve a flatter sail shape, maintain better control, and enjoy a smoother ride on the water.

Reefing to Reduce Sail Area

When the wind picks up, reefing your sails can help reduce the sail area and prevent excessive heeling. By reducing the amount of sail exposed to the wind, you can maintain better control over your sailboat and minimize the risk of capsizing.

One effective technique is to use the reefing lines on the clew of the main. These lines allow you to pull the sail down to the boom, reducing its size and maximizing your ability to manage the sail. By running the reefing line down to the boom, you can reduce windage and maintain stability in stronger winds.

Another method is to furl the headsail. By furling the headsail more tightly, you can decrease the sail area and minimize the force of the wind on the boat. This will help prevent excessive heeling and maintain a smoother ride on the water.

By implementing these strategies, you can confidently navigate challenging conditions and enjoy a more stable sailing experience. Remember to always assess the wind strength and adjust your sail plan accordingly to ensure the safety and comfort of your crew .

Flattening the Headsail and Furling

Achieving a flatter sail shape can significantly reduce heeling when sailing, and one way to accomplish this is by flattening the headsail and furling it. By adjusting the shape of the headsail, you can minimize the amount of sideways force generated by the wind, which in turn helps to maintain a more stable sailboat. Flattening the headsail involves tightening the halyard, moving the genny car back, and applying more tension to the furling line.

When the headsail is properly flattened, it creates a smoother flow of air over the sail, reducing the chances of an excessive heel angle. This technique is particularly effective when sailing upwind or in stronger winds, where the force on the sails is greater. By controlling the shape of the headsail, you can better manage the balance and stability of the sailboat.

To further reduce the sail area and control heeling, furling the headsail more can be beneficial. Furling involves rolling the headsail or genoa partially or completely, depending on the conditions. By reducing the exposed area of the sail, you decrease the force exerted by the wind and, consequently, the amount of heeling. It’s important to find the right balance between maintaining sail power and reducing heeling, depending on the wind strength and sea state.

Table 1: Summary of Techniques for Flattening the Headsail and Furling

“Flattening the headsail and furling it are essential techniques for reducing heeling and improving the stability of your sailboat. By adjusting the shape of the headsail and reducing its sail area, you can better control the forces exerted by the wind. Experiment with different adjustments and find the right balance for the prevailing conditions. Remember, a flatter sail shape means a smoother ride and a more enjoyable sailing experience!”

Steering Techniques in Waves

When sailing in waves, it is crucial to employ specific steering techniques to minimize heeling and keep the boat stable. As the waves impact the boat, it’s important to steer at a slight angle to the wave, allowing the boat to surf down the wave and increase speed. This angle helps reduce the chances of broaching or being rolled by the wave. Maintaining a light touch on the rudder and making small steering inputs is key to maintaining stability.

One technique to effectively navigate waves is to anticipate the wave’s direction and adjust the boat’s course accordingly. By anticipating the wave’s movement, you can steer the boat in a way that allows it to ride over the waves smoothly, reducing heeling and maintaining stability. Keeping a watchful eye on the wave patterns and adjusting your steering technique accordingly will greatly enhance your sailing experience in waves.

Sailing Techniques for Stability in Waves

Another technique to improve stability in waves is to make use of techniques like the favored gybe. When sailing in waves that are not in the same direction as the wind, taking the favored gybe can help maintain stability. By waiting for the tide to turn and the seastate to reduce, you can sail in a more controlled and stable manner, reducing heel angle and ensuring a smoother ride.

It is also essential to keep the sail trim and sail area in check when sailing in waves. Maintaining a flatter sail shape by flattening the headsail and moving the genny car back helps reduce the sail’s surface area exposed to the wind, leading to lesser heeling. Additionally, tightening the leech on the mainsail and spinnaker helps reduce rolling in waves. Having a tweaker line to control the amount of twist in the spinnaker’s leech further enhances stability and minimizes heel angle.

Steering techniques in waves play a vital role in reducing heeling and keeping the boat stable. By employing these techniques and making the necessary adjustments to sail trim and course, you can confidently navigate through challenging wave conditions and enjoy a smoother sailing experience.

Sailing in Cross Waves

Sailing in waves that are not aligned with the wind requires specific strategies to maintain stability and minimize heeling. When the waves are coming from a different direction than the wind, it can create a challenging sailing experience. However, with the right techniques, you can navigate through cross waves smoothly.

To sail effectively in cross waves, it is beneficial to take the favored gybe. By adjusting your course to take advantage of the wave direction, you can maintain better control of your sailboat. Waiting for the seastate to reduce can also contribute to a more stable ride, as calmer waters will minimize the impact of the cross waves.

When sailing in cross waves, it’s important to anticipate the motion of the boat and make small steering inputs. Keeping a light touch on the rudder will help you maintain stability and prevent excessive heeling. By being attentive and responsive to the changing conditions, you can navigate through cross waves with confidence.

Table: Techniques for Sailing in Cross Waves

By implementing these strategies and techniques, you can navigate through cross waves more effectively and reduce the risk of excessive heeling. Remember to always prioritize safety and adjust your sail trim and course accordingly to maintain stability in challenging conditions.

To minimize rolling when sailing in waves, certain adjustments can be made to the mainsail and spinnaker to enhance stability. One effective technique is tightening the leech on both the mainsail and spinnaker. By doing so, you can control the amount of twist in the sail, reducing the chances of excessive rolling. Additionally, using a tweaker line for the spinnaker allows for further control over the leech, maximizing stability even in challenging wave conditions.

When adjusting the leech of the mainsail, it is important to maintain balance and avoid over-tightening, as this can hinder performance and responsiveness. Find the sweet spot where the sail maintains a flat shape while still allowing sufficient power to propel the boat forward. This balance will ensure stability while also optimizing speed.

Another technique to reduce rolling is to furl the headsail more. By reducing the sail area, you decrease the surface exposed to the wind, minimizing the boat’s tendency to heel and roll. While it’s crucial to maintain sufficient sail power for forward momentum, adjusting the headsail appropriately can significantly improve stability in wave conditions.

When implementing these techniques, always keep in mind the importance of adapting to the current sea state and wind conditions. By anticipating changes and making adjustments accordingly, you can maintain a smoother and more stable sailing experience.

• Stay light on the rudder and make small steering inputs to maintain control and minimize rolling.
• Take the favored gybe when sailing in waves that are not in the same direction as the wind until the tide turns and the sea state reduces. This strategy helps improve stability and reduces the boat’s heel angle.
• Always monitor the wind direction and adjust your course to avoid gusts or dead spots, ensuring consistent boat speed even in light weather conditions.

By implementing these techniques and strategies, you can reduce rolling and maintain stability when sailing in waves. Remember to always prioritize safety and adapt your sailing techniques to the prevailing conditions. With practice and experience, you’ll become adept at minimizing heel angle and enjoy a smoother and more enjoyable sailing experience.

“Sailing is not just about the destination, but the journey itself. By mastering the art of stability in waves, you can turn every sailing adventure into an unforgettable experience.” – Anonymous Sailor

Sailing Downwind in Light Weather

When sailing downwind in light weather, it is crucial to anticipate wind changes and make the necessary adjustments to control heeling. In these conditions, the swell can have a significant impact on the wind, making it challenging to maintain consistent boat speed. To navigate this situation successfully, there are a few key strategies you can employ.

Firstly, it’s important to keep a close eye on the wind direction. Light winds are often fickle, and even small shifts can affect your boat’s performance. By constantly monitoring the wind, you can anticipate changes and make timely adjustments to your sail trim. This will help you maintain a balanced sail plan and prevent excessive heeling.

Secondly, you may need to make adjustments to your course. In light weather, the swell can often kill the wind, making it necessary to find areas with better wind flow. By steering your boat slightly off course to catch the wind, you can maximize your speed and reduce the chances of heeling. Remember to have a light touch on the rudder and make small, precise steering inputs for optimal control.

Lastly, maintaining a consistent boat speed is essential when sailing downwind in light weather. Any loss of speed can significantly affect your ability to control heeling. Keep a close eye on your boat’s speed and make adjustments accordingly. By optimizing your sail trim, course, and speed, you can effectively manage heeling and enjoy a smoother sailing experience.

Remember, when sailing downwind in light weather, it’s all about adapting to the changing conditions and making the necessary adjustments. By staying alert and employing these strategies, you can master the art of controlling heeling and enjoy a more enjoyable and stable sailing experience.

By adjusting sail trim, reefing when necessary, employing proper steering techniques, and following the strategies outlined in this article, you can significantly reduce heeling and enjoy a smoother sailing experience. Heeling, which occurs when a sailboat tilts due to wind pressure on the sails, can be mitigated by making small adjustments to sail trim and course. Flattening the headsail and furling it more can help achieve a flatter sail shape, while using the reefing lines on the main sail allows for better control. When sailing in waves, it is important to steer at a slight angle to ride the waves and make small steering inputs for stability.

When waves are not in the same direction as the wind, taking the favored gybe until the tide turns and the seastate reduces can contribute to a more stable sailboat. To reduce rolling in waves, tightening the leech on the mainsail and spinnaker and using a tweaker line can help control the sail’s twist. Sailing downwind in light weather requires anticipating wind direction and making adjustments to maintain consistent boat speed. With these techniques and strategies in mind, you can prevent excessive heeling and enjoy a smoother ride on the water.

Q: What is heeling in sailing?

A: Heeling in sailing refers to the boat leaning over at an angle due to wind pressure on the sails.

Q: How can I reduce heeling when sailing?

A: To reduce heeling, it is important to adjust sail trim, adjust course, and reduce sail area through reefing. Flattening the headsail and moving the genny car back can help achieve a flatter sail shape. Furled the headsail more to reduce the sail area. The reefing line on the clew of the main should be run down to the boom to allow for better control of the sail. Pulling the reef down to the boom helps reduce windage.

Q: What steering techniques should I use when sailing in waves?

A: When sailing downwind in waves, it is important to steer at a slight angle to the wave so that the boat can surf down the wave, increasing speed and reducing the chances of broaching or being rolled. It is also important to have a light touch with the rudder and make small steering inputs.

Q: How can I reduce rolling in waves?

A: To reduce rolling in waves, it is helpful to tighten the leech on the mainsail and spinnaker and have a tweaker line to control the amount of twist in the spinnaker’s leech.

Q: What should I do when sailing downwind in light weather?

A: Sailing downwind in light weather can be challenging, as the swell can kill the wind. It is important to anticipate the wind direction and make adjustments to maintain consistent boat speed.

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Learning to Sail: Heeling Over

On the other hand, if you sail dinghies or other unballasted boats then you may capsize if you heel over. It’s part of the fun of sailing that type of boat! When you train to sail dinghies you learn how to quickly and easily right the boat. To start with, if you are slightly nervous, then we suggest learning to sail on a solid keel boat like Chao Lay .

Learning To Sail: What Does The Keel Do?

The keel is a flat blade that is attached to the bottom of the sailboat. It has two main purposes:

• It prevents the boat from being blown sideways by the wind, and
• It holds ballast that helps to keep the boat the right way round.

Be advised that you need to know the depth of your keel to safely navigate in shallow water.

Learning To Sail: Will We Capsize?

Keel boats have plenty of ballast to keep them upright, even in the most extreme conditions. All sailing boats will heel over, and you may even get a wave or two over the side. Don’t be alarmed as this is just part of sailing; keel boats are designed to heel and many skippers say it’s the most exciting part. Cleverly, keel boats were designed using basic physics:

• The ballast is located well below the waterline in the keel. If the boat heels over then the leverage increases. For example, you can compare this to holding a weight in your hand. As you raise your arm straight out from your body, the weight feels heavier the further your arm moves upwards. This is exactly the same as the ballast taking effect when a boat heels over.

It makes sense that a keel boat is very difficult to capsize when these two effects work together (reduced wind pressure on the sails and the ballast working to right the boat). Simply, trust the science and enjoy the experience!

Learning To Sail: How Far To Heel Over?

This is another question we get asked by students. Basically, you want the sailboat to move through the water as efficiently as possible. If you keep a steady heel angle, the blades and sails will efficiently glide through the flow of the water and wind. Keeping the angle consistent is important; there are three things you can adjust to ensure this:

• Sail trim, and
• Placement of weight.

The ideal heel angle is different for each boat. Generally, keel boats should be sailed somewhere in between 10 to 30 degrees.

Our next blog will look at sailing techniques used when  racing in regattas , taking an in-depth look at the three considerations listed above. Until then, check out these great books from the RYA:

Buy RYA Start to Race at the RYA Shop

How a Sail Works: Basic Aerodynamics

The more you learn about how a sail works, the more you start to really appreciate the fundamental structure and design used for all sailboats.

It can be truly fascinating that many years ago, adventurers sailed the oceans and seas with what we consider now to be basic aerodynamic and hydrodynamic theory.

When I first heard the words “aerodynamic and hydrodynamic theory” when being introduced to how a sail works in its most fundamental form, I was a bit intimidated.

“Do I need to take a physics 101 course?” However, it turns out it can be explained in very intuitive ways that anyone with a touch of curiosity can learn.

Wherever possible, I’ll include not only intuitive descriptions of the basic aerodynamics of how a sail works, but I’ll also include images to illustrate these points.

There are a lot of fascinating facts to learn, so let’s get to it!

Basic Aerodynamic Theory and Sailing

Combining the world of aerodynamics and sailing is a natural move thanks to the combination of wind and sail.

We all know that sailboats get their forward motion from wind energy, so it’s no wonder a little bit of understanding of aerodynamics is in order. Aerodynamics is a field of study focused on the motion of air when it interacts with a solid object.

The most common image that comes to mind is wind on an airplane or a car in a wind tunnel. As a matter of fact, the sail on a sailboat acts a bit like a wing under specific points of sail as does the keel underneath a sailboat.

People have been using the fundamentals of aerodynamics to sail around the globe for thousands of years.

The ancient Greeks are known to have had at least an intuitive understanding of it an extremely long time ago. However, it wasn’t truly laid out as science until Sir Isaac Newton came along in 1726 with his theory of air resistance.

Fundamental Forces

One of the most important facets to understand when learning about how a sail works under the magnifying glass of aerodynamics is understanding the forces at play.

There are four fundamental forces involved in the combination of aerodynamics and a sailboat and those include the lift, drag, thrust, and weight.

From the image above, you can see these forces at play on an airfoil, which is just like a wing on an airplane or similar to the many types of sails on a sailboat. They all have an important role to play in how a sail works when out on the water with a bit of wind about, but the two main aerodynamic forces are lift and drag.

Before we jump into how lift and drag work, let’s take a quick look at thrust and weight since understanding these will give us a better view of the aerodynamics of a sailboat.

As you can imagine, weight is a pretty straight forward force since it’s simply how heavy an object is.

The weight of a sailboat makes a huge difference in how it’s able to accelerate when a more powerful wind kicks in as well as when changing directions while tacking or jibing.

It’s also the opposing force to lift, which is where the keel comes in mighty handy. More on that later.

The thrust force is a reactionary force as it’s the main result of the combination of all the other forces. This is the force that helps propel a sailboat forward while in the water, which is essentially the acceleration of a sailboat cutting through the water.

Combine this forward acceleration with the weight of sailboat and you get Newton’s famous second law of motion F=ma.

Drag and Lift

Now for the more interesting aerodynamic forces at play when looking at how a sail works. As I mentioned before, lift and drag are the two main aerodynamic forces involved in this scientific dance between wind and sail.

Just like the image shows, they are perpendicular forces that play crucial roles in getting a sailboat moving along.

If you were to combine the lift and drag force together, you would end up with a force that’s directly trying to tip your sailboat.

What the sail is essentially doing is breaking up the force of the wind into two components that serve different purposes. This decomposition of forces is what makes a sailboat a sailboat.

The drag force is the force parallel to the sail, which is essentially the force that’s altering the direction of the wind and pushing the sailboat sideways.

The reason drag is occurring in the first place is based on the positioning of the sail to the wind. Since we want our sail to catch the wind, it’s only natural this force will be produced.

The lift force is the force perpendicular to the sail and provides the energy that’s pointed fore the sailboat. Since the lift force is pointing forward, we want to ensure our sailboat is able to use as much of that force to produce forward propulsion.

This is exactly the energy our sailboat needs to get moving, so figuring out how to eliminate any other force that impedes it is essential.

Combining the lift and drag forces produces a very strong force that’s exactly perpendicular to the hull of a sailboat.

As you might have already experienced while out on a sailing adventure, the sailboat heels (tips) when the wind starts moving, which is exactly this strong perpendicular force produced by the lift and drag.

Now, you may be wondering “Why doesn’t the sailboat get pushed in this new direction due to this new force?” Well, if we only had the hull and sail to work with while out on the water, we’d definitely be out of luck.

There’s no question we’d just be pushed to the side and never move forward. However, sailboats have a special trick up their sleeves that help transform that energy to a force pointing forward.

Hydrodynamics: The Role of the Keel

An essential part of any monohull sailboat is a keel, which is the long, heavy object that protrudes from the hull and down to the seabed. Keels can come in many types , but they all serve the same purpose regardless of their shape and size.

Hydrodynamics, or fluid dynamics, is similar to aerodynamics in the sense that it describes the flow of fluids and is often used as a way to model how liquids in motion interact with solid objects.

As a matter of fact, one of the most famous math problems that have yet to be solved is exactly addressing this interaction, which is called the Navier-Stokes equations. If you can solve this math problem, the Clay Mathematics Institute will award you with $1 million!

There are a couple of reasons why a sailboat has a keel . A keel converts sideways force on the sailboat by the wind into forward motion and it provides ballast (i.e., keeps the sailboat from tipping).

By canceling out the perpendicular force on the sailboat originally caused by the wind hitting the sail, the only significant leftover force produces forward motion.

We talked about how the sideways force makes the sailboat tip to the side. Well, the keep is made out to be a wing-like object that can not only effectively cut through the water below, but also provide enough surface area to resist being moved.

For example, if you stick your hand in water and keep it stiff while moving it back and forth in the direction of your palm, your hand is producing a lot of resistance to the water.

This resisting force by the keel contributes to eliminating that perpendicular force that’s trying to tip the sailboat as hard as it can.

The wind hitting the sail and thus producing that sideways force is being pushed back by this big, heavy object in the water. Since that big, heavy object isn’t easy to push around, a lot of that energy gets canceled out.

When the energy perpendicular to the sailboat is effectively canceled out, the only remaining force is the remnants of the lift force. And since the lift force was pointing parallel to the sailboat as well as the hull, there’s only one way to go: forward!

Once the forward motion starts to occur, the keel starts to act like a wing and helps to stabilize the sailboat as the speed increases.

This is when the keel is able to resist the perpendicular force even more, resulting in the sailboat evening out.

This is exactly why once you pick up a bit of speed after experiencing a gust, your sailboat will tend to flatten instead of stay tipped over so heavily.

Heeling Over

When you’re on a sailboat and you experience the feeling of the sailboat tipping to either the port or starboard side, that’s called heeling .

As your sailboat catches the wind in its sail and works with the keel to produce forward motion, that heeling over will be reduced due to the wing-like nature of the keel.

The combination of the perpendicular force of the wind on the sail and the opposing force by the keel results in these forces canceling out.

However, the keel isn’t able to overpower the force by the wind absolutely which results in the sailboat traveling forward with a little tilt, or heel, to it.

Ideally, you want your sailboat to heel as little as possible because this allows your sailboat to cut through the water easier and to transfer more energy forward.

This is why you see sailboat racing crews leaning on the side of their sailboat that’s heeled over the most. They’re trying to help the keel by adding even more force against the perpendicular wind force.

By leveling out the sailboat, you’ll be able to move through the water far more efficiently. This means that any work in correcting the heeling of your sailboat beyond the work of the keel needs to be done by you and your crew.

Apart from the racing crews that lean intensely on one side of the sailboat, there are other ways to do this as well.

One way to prevent your sailboat from heeling over is to simply move your crew from one side of the sailboat to the other. Just like racing sailors, you’re helping out the keel resist the perpendicular force without having to do any intense harness gymnastics.

A great way to properly keep your sailboat from heeling over is to adjust the sails on your sailboat. Sure, it’s fun to sail around with a little heel because it adds a bit of action to the day, but if you need to contain that action a bit all you need to do is ease out the sails.

By easing out the sails, you’re reducing the surface area of the sail acting on the wind and thus reducing the perpendicular wind force. Be sure to ease it out carefully though so as to avoid luffing.

Another great way to reduce heeling on your sailboat is to reef your sails. By reefing your sails, you’re again reducing the surface area of the sails acting on the wind.

However, in this case the reduction of surface area doesn’t require altering your current point of sail and instead simply remove surface area altogether.

When the winds are high and mighty, and they don’t appear to be letting up, reefing your sails is always a smart move.

How an Airplane Wing Works

We talked a lot about how a sail is a wing-like object, but I always find it important to be able to understand one concept in a number of different ways.

Probably the most common example’s of how aerodynamics works is with wings on an airplane. If you can understand how a sail works as well as a wing on an airplane, you’ll be in a small minority of people who truly understand the basic aerodynamic theory.

As I mentioned before, sails on a sailboat are similar to wings on an airplane. When wind streams across a wing, some air travels above the wing and some below.

The air that travels above the wing travels a longer distance, which means it has to travel at a higher velocity than the air below resulting in a lower pressure environment.

On the other hand, the air that passes below the wing doesn’t have to travel as far as the air on top of the wing, so the air can travel at a lower velocity than the air above resulting in a higher pressure environment.

Now, it’s a fact that high-pressure systems always move toward low-pressure systems since this is a transfer of energy from a higher potential to a lower potential.

Think of what happens when you open the bathroom door after taking a hot shower. All that hot air escapes into a cooler environment as fast as possible.

Due to the shape of a wing on an airplane, a pressure differential is created and results in the high pressure wanting to move to the lower pressure.

This resulting pressure dynamic forces the wing to move upward causing whatever else is attached to it to rise up as well. This is how airplanes are able to produce lift and raise themselves off the ground.

Now if you look at this in the eyes of a sailboat, the sail is acting in a similar way. Wind is streaming across the sail head on resulting in some air going on the port side and the starboard side of the sail.

Whichever side of the sail is puffed out will require the air to travel a bit farther than the interior part of the sail.

This is actually where there’s a slight difference between a wing and a sail since both sides of the sail are equal in length.

However, all of the air on the interior doesn’t have to travel the same distance as all of the air on the exterior, which results in the pressure differential we see with wings.

Final Thoughts

We got pretty technical here today, but I hope it was helpful in deepening your understanding of how a sail works as well as how a keel works when it comes to basic aerodynamic and hydrodynamic theory.

Having this knowledge is helpful when adjusting your sails and being conscious of the power of the wind on your sailboat.

With a better fundamental background in how a sailboat operates and how their interconnected parts work together in terms of basic aerodynamics and hydrodynamics, you’re definitely better fit for cruising out on the water.

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What's the story with heeling?

• Thread starter Newbie Sailor
• Start date Mar 25, 2010
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Newbie Sailor

We just started sailing last summer for our first time. It was amazing until we got caught up in a storm or at the least, weather we weren't expecting. This was in Oct on SE Vancouver Island (near Sidney). Our current boat (27 Catalina) handled quite well but until then, the most we heeled was probably just a couple or a few degrees. During this sail, we must have been heeling around 20 degrees, but there's no way to be sure. This really freaked out my wife! She was panicking and safe to say, I didn't feel quite at ease either. We will be sailing an Ericson 34T this year and I'll probably toss an inclinometer on there to tell how much we're heeling. How much is too much? I'm still not sure how it works, but I can imagine it's not difficult with a good amount of wind to get the boat heeling 15 degrees or so and at that point, then it will be quite difficult for it to heel all the way over/aka capsize. Is that right? Is there an order to what we should do when we get very uneasy with the amount of heel? Such as: 1. tighten the sheets 2. drop the jib 3. reef the main 4. let out the main 5. drop the main or sail downwind if possible What do you guys normally do? Thanks!  

Yeee Hawwww!!!! Ain't it great?!?!!!!! Just kidding. To answer the question how much is too much? Boats sail best when sailed upright (<15 degrees of heel). So less heel is better. But to get power out of the sails the boat HAS to heel. Sailboast with ballasted keels (not boards) will heel to 90 degrees and stand right back up. Course most of the stuff inside will have issues with that much heel. The hull and rig can take it fine but the engine and "stuff" in the cabin will certainly need attention after such an event. The real issue with heel beyond 90 degrees is dragging the mast in the water and breaking the rig (de-masting). course the more you heel the less the wind can effect you so it is a self correcting problem. Most get de-masted by a wave making them heel beyond 90 degrees. If we are talking about wind induced heel and not wave induced, the first rule is 1) keep a weather eye out. followed closely by 2) reef when you first think about it not after you wish you had 3) if it is gusty and you are beating, 3a) up in the puffs and off in the lufts 4 if it is gusty and your are running 4a) off in the puffs and up in the lufts (this is a common source of confusion as they are backward and people quote them not knowing there are two) don't try this with thunderstorms or squalls. Drop the sails and motor for 15 minutes till things die down. Also don't let the sails out so much that they flogg themselves to tatters. Change your point of sail  

First of all you should know that it is very unlikely that you will go all the way over. Even if you do your boat will right itself again. At least this is true for normal winds--say up to about 20 knots and just a normal main and jib. One reason is that the further the boat heels the lower percentage of the total wind force the sail feels. Another is that lead keel hanging from the bottom of the boat. For most boats heeling beyond 20 degrees spills too much wind and actually slows the boat down. That is why racers put crew on the windward rail in a race--to keep the boat flatter to capture as much of the force of the wind as possible. Having said this I know from experience that wives fear of heeling has nothing to do with numbers and logic. It is more of a sensation felt in the gut and can be quite scary. She will be much happier if you keep the boat upright--even if it slows you down. How to do that? ( assuming the wind is building) 1. Flatten the sails--more outhall, vang, halyard (or Cunningham if equiped), backstay (if adjustable). More jib halyard tension. 2. Induce more twist--Ease the mainsheet till the leading edge of the sail flaps around. (luffs) Then ease it till it just stops luffing. If not using the vang drop the traveller down (to leeward) and tighten mainsheet till luffing stops. Move the jib lead forward and ease the sail till the telltales are all streaming properly. 3. If still too much heel, time to reef the main and furl some of the jib or use a smaller jib. OK you do all that and a puff heels you over and the wife start to complain. Just release the main sheet and the jibsheet and the boat will stand up again. Some folks always let the wife handle the main sheet since she will know she has control over how much the boat heels. This may not be very efficient sailing at first, but is more fun than leaving her on shore.  

Newbie Sailor said: ...How much is too much? I'm still not sure how it works, but I can imagine it's not difficult with a good amount of wind to get the boat heeling 15 degrees or so and at that point, then it will be quite difficult for it to heel all the way over/aka capsize. Is that right? Is there an order to what we should do when we get very uneasy with the amount of heel? Such as: 1. tighten the sheets 2. drop the jib 3. reef the main 4. let out the main 5. drop the main or sail downwind if possible What do you guys normally do? Thanks! Click to expand

Re: Yeee Hawwww!!!! What Bill said . Wind induced heeling is self limiting but it doesn't reduce the scream factor. Reef when the heeling STARTS to be uncomfortable. There is more than enough power in the wind at 15 knots to drive your boat with a reef in the main. If stuff starts to fall on the floor down below you have waited too long. Then you head up into the wind and tuck in the reef.  

Newbie Sailor said: 5. sail downwind if possible Click to expand

Heel is normal, and is a factor of sail area, wind speed, and relative wind direction. Typically, if you heel too much, the wind will spill out of the sail and the boat will round up (head into wind). This doesn't feel to good, the sails flap loudly to tell you its a bad thing to do, and you basically a loose of control of the boat for a short period of time. As the boat heels over, the rudder stops working to counteract the wind pushing you over, and the wind force stops moving you forward. You should reduce sail area to match conditions. If you are having a hard time hold the boat on course (turning up as the wind pushes you down...weather helm), then you have too much sail up. Most boats sail faster when they are standing up, so don't be afraid to reef. The rule of thumb is that if you think it is time to reef, then you are at least 5 minutes late. Keep you sails balanced. If your main is reefed, match it by furling the jib a little. This is come with experience. If it is gusty, let you traveler out in a gust, and bring it back in the lulls. Sails should have twist in them in heavy winds. It lets more air spill out of the top of the sail. Try and keep the draft, or belly, tight to reduce the power of the sail as well. Read a few books (like Don's Sail Trim) and keep sailing. The boats can take more than we can in most cases. Have your wife read as well. The more you both are comfortable on the boat, the better time you will both have. We cannot always sail in the best weather, and it does change quickly. A little practice, and a little experience, will prepare you for the times the weather comes up. Hang in there, and enjoy. Steve  

Dear New, you brought back fond memories. I think every new sailor and family go through this episode at some time--maybe more then once. My wife was scared of sailing until I show her how a well balanced boat when you release all lines should come into the wind and wait for you. We did this several times in moderate winds and she would let the mainsail sheet go and we'd come upright. It really made her feel good about being in the boat. Later on she really learned to sail, even teaching sailing to others. But letting out the main was her first line of defense against heeling. If the winds picked up you can always let the main go, then reef if you want. If it is temporary, after the gust, bring the main back in. A good technique in wind gusts is to tighten the jib and let the main backwind the jib (letting the main out). You can jog along quite safely under these conditions. Someone once told me that on the east coast this is called fisherman reefing.... We've sail alot around Sidney--the gulf islands and the san juans. Lots and lots of gusts. The wind quite often comes in the Strait (or down the strait) and then over all our islands and it breaks the wind up in gusts and directions. You just have to play them We now own a boat with a furling main and the first thing my wife did was to figure out how to release the mainsheet and then how to bring in the main. Then she learned how to roller furl the main. We cool now.  

YEEE HAWWWW!!!! redux I should have said 3a) STEER up... and 4a) STEER off... By that I mean use the helm to control the amount of power the sails have and hence the heel. Steering "up" is up wind or the smallest angle toward the eye of the wind. Steering "off" is down wind or the smallest angel toward dead down wind. So going to windward in a gust you want to turn into the wind and "de-power" the sails and probably point toward the direction you want to go too. When running with the wind in a gust you want to turn away from the wind and use the increased relative speed of the boat to the wind to "de-power" the sails. All that stuff about flattening the sail is good too but I'd try learning to reef first as it gets results, big results. Flatting the sail gets results too but you have to experiment with it to get good. It is more of a racing thing to get the most out of the boat. Since I sail for pleasure, I just reef as that automagicaly flattens the sails. If we are on a long tack and I'm done doing maintenance on the first mate then I start playing with the sail shape to get to the resterant faster. Don't do it much to effect heel though.  

I am lucky to have a wife that enjoys to heel over the boat and let her ride. Our boat sails best when she is heeled over and the opposite locker becomes a foot stop. I do not mean all the way over excessively but it seems there is a "pocket" you get the boat into and they just really sail their best. I love when there is enough wind to get my boat to really slide across the water. Does your wife take a turn at the tiller/wheel? Most of the people I know that have a partner that does not take time at the tiller tend to really worry when the boat is doing what it was designed to do. I have a couple that almost named their boat Dammit Steve! Every time he got the boat heeled over and running it wide open his wife screamed Damn it Steve! I agree with those that said to get really good at reefing the main. I have a 140% and a 100% jib. I only sail the 140% in very light wind days. If I get caught in a blow with it up I just drop it and sail main alone until I the wind gets tolerable again and I can switch to the 100%. On a day that has wind and forecasts of increasing wind I sail my 100%, it really handles the wind well with not so much heel. Number one rule is sail safe and enjoy the voyage. I made my wife hold the rigging with white knuckles in a storm on our Prindle 19 once. She made sure I paid dearly for every second of white knuckles.  

Sounds good. Thanks for the tips on both of the books which were recommended. I'll see if I can find a copy here in town.  

Aye to what all the others have said, plus one more comment - we have found that if people feel secure, like they are not about to slip off the seat and take a tumble that also goes a long way to accepting the heel. They also don't like leaning backwards. I encourage them to sit on the windward side, brace their feet on the opposite side and enjoy the ride. Better still, as the others have said, get them to participate  

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CharlieCobra

tommays said: Well it can always get worse Click to expand

Stu Jackson

Heeling is the natural occurrence when sailing upwind. You cannot go upwind without heeling. The amount you heel is based on the windspeed and the amount of sail you have aloft. Buying a book about this basic concept of sailing is very good advice.  

forget the inclinometer!! the best thing that happened to me is when my big fat head knocked it off. it used to be my wifes gauge to start yelping. without she is much better crew!! mike  

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Kristen Einthoven's Blog

Just another weblog.

Heeling and Capsizing

Before I go into some stories or more about certain types of sailboats, I think it is important to explain the concepts behind heeling and capsizing. “Heeling” is when the sailboat leans over to one side due to wind pressure on the sails. To propel the boat, the boat is angled so the wind crosses over the boat at an angle, hitting the sails and pushing them toward one side of the boat. The boat tends to lean toward the side the wind is pushing the sails toward as a result. Although all sailboats will heel, it is most prominent (and safer in my mind) on a monohull sailboat. A monohull is a boat with a single hull (the body of the boat and the part that rests in the water). These sailboats typically have a keel on the bottom, which is basically a big and very heavy extension of the boat that sticks down into the water to help balance the boat and prevent it from capsizing. It acts as a counterweight, especially when heeling over (see the picture at the end). Catamarans are a type of sailboat that has two hulls, with netting or some sort of “bridge” connecting the two. Boats like these do not have a keel, but are less inclined to heel over, at least during recreational sailing, because of the dual-hull setup. Both types of sailboats, however, can still heel over and can also capsize if they heel over too far. “Capsizing” is when the boat tips over, the mast goes into the water, and the boat essentially needs special action to be righted. Smaller sailboats up to about 18 feet are the easies to capsize and are usually not harmed in the process. I have taken out our catamaran (see the previous post) as well as my aunt’s sunfish (one of the smallest sailboats, usually only holds one or two people) and purposely capsized them for fun and am able to right them without problems. It simply takes effort and sometimes multiple people, and to right these tiny sailboats you hang off the boat on the “underside” side (since the boat is sideways or completely upside down), using your weight to bring the boat back upright. However, with larger boats, the result of capsizing is often extremely costly and can destroy a boat. My family charters 40-foot sailboats in the Caribbean to sail on (more stories to come on that) and although it is nearly impossible to capsize due to the weight of the keel, if that sailboat were to capsize the boat would most likely be ruined. Think of it as flipping a car over, but also in a flood. The engine would flood as well as the inside of the car (which would represent the cabin of the boat; larger monohull boats have a lower and upper deck where the lower deck has bedding, sinks, or other storage amenities). The top of the car would be damaged, as the mast could get damaged if it gets stuck on the bottom of the lake, ocean, bay, etc. Also, think of the Concordia cruise ship that capsized off the coast of Italy recently. Those aren’t meant to capsize, obviously, and hence the boat was in fact destroyed. The larger the boat, the more difficult it is to capsize thankfully, but with smaller boats I find heeling to the point of capsizing a lot of fun, and with the larger boats that I sail on, I still find heeling over and the rush that goes along with the wind and speed we take on absolutely thrilling!

2 thoughts on “ Heeling and Capsizing ”

Wow, you certainly know a lot about sailing–your knowledge is remarkable! This blog fascinates me and I find it awesome that you love purposely capsizing. This reminds me of my summer experience with JetSkis. My boyfriend and I rented a JetSki and he whipped around a buoy so quickly that we both flew off and the JetSki fell over (capsized?). It was such a rush! I understand why you must enjoy it, especially on a boat and not a JetSki.

This is such an interesting topic to write about. I am really enjoying learning about your boat adventures and boat vocabulary. My uncle is in love with his boat so I have been on a boat a few times, but other than that I have only been on cruises so I am not entirely aware of this subject. I enjoy reading your passion blogs!

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Understanding Heeling in Sailing Explained

Have you ever wondered what is heeling in sailing ? In this article, we will delve into the fascinating concept of heeling and how it impacts sailing. Whether you are a seasoned sailor or new to the sport, understanding heeling is crucial for a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Key Takeaways:

• Heeling refers to the leaning or tilting of a sailboat due to the wind pressure on the sails.
• Sailboats are designed to heel to a certain degree, and heeling can be controlled through various techniques such as feathering upwind and adjusting sail trim.
• The optimal heeling angle for a sailboat is typically between 15 and 25 degrees.
• Excessive heeling can impact the boat’s performance and stability, so it is important to find a balance.
• Understanding the effects of heeling and employing proper techniques can enhance your sailing experience.

What Exactly Makes A Sailboat Heel?

Sailboats heel when there is too much wind in the sails, causing the boat to lean over and lose some of its forward momentum.

The wind pressure on the sails decreases as the boat heels, resulting in less pressure and force. The extent of heeling depends on factors such as the wind strength and the boat’s design and characteristics.

The keel of a boat provides stability and counteracts the heeling force by its weight and lateral resistance in the water. The optimal heeling angle for a sailboat is usually between 15 and 25 degrees , but it may vary based on the boat’s specific build and design.

“Sailboats heel when there is too much wind in the sails, causing the boat to lean over and lose some of its forward momentum.”

How Do I Keep My Sailboat From Heeling?

While heeling is a natural part of sailing, there are several techniques that sailors can use to control and reduce the angle of heeling. These techniques are essential for maintaining stability and ensuring a smooth sailing experience. Here are some tips to keep your sailboat from heeling excessively:

• Feathering upwind: One effective technique to reduce heeling is to steer the boat slightly into the direction of the wind. This technique releases or spills the wind out of the sails, reducing the pressure and decreasing the angle of heeling.
• Easing the mainsheet or traveler: By adjusting the angle of the mainsail, sailors can release wind pressure and allow the boat to sail more upright. This technique helps to counterbalance the force of the wind and reduce heeling.
• Reefing the sails: In strong winds, it is advisable to reduce sail area by reefing the sails. This involves making the sails smaller and reducing the surface area exposed to the wind. Reefing helps to control heeling and maintain stability in challenging conditions.
• Proper sail trim and course adjustment: Paying attention to sail trim and course adjustment is crucial for controlling heeling. Optimal sail trim ensures that the sails are properly adjusted and balanced, reducing the tendency to heel. Adjusting the course can also help in finding the most favorable wind angles and minimizing heeling.

Implementing these techniques and being mindful of sail trim, course adjustments, and prevailing conditions will greatly help in keeping your sailboat from heeling excessively. By maintaining control over heeling, you can enhance both the comfort and safety of your sailing experience.

How Much Should A Sailboat Heel?

The optimal heel angle for a sailboat depends on its specific design and purpose. In general, a comfortable and efficient heel angle for most sailboats is between 15 and 25 degrees. Sailboats with keels are specifically designed to operate within a particular heel angle to maximize their performance and stability.

Going beyond the maximum heel angle recommended for a sailboat can have negative consequences. It can make the boat difficult to steer and slow down its speed. Maintaining control and stability is crucial while sailing, and reducing excessive heeling becomes essential.

To reduce heeling, sailors can employ various techniques that have been mentioned earlier in this article. Feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails are effective methods for decreasing the angle of heeling. Additionally, adjusting the sails and course according to the wind conditions is vital to maintaining control and stability.

By implementing these techniques, sailors can effectively reduce heeling and ensure safer and more enjoyable sailing experiences.

Expert Tip:

“Proper sail trim and course adjustment are critical for controlling heeling on a sailboat. Understanding the balance between sail area, weight distribution, and wind pressure is key to maintaining stability and reducing excessive heel. Always adjust your sails and course according to the prevailing wind and sea conditions to ensure a smooth and controlled ride.”

Heel Angle Guidelines:

These guidelines provide a general framework for understanding the optimal heel angles for different types of sailboats. However, it’s important to refer to the specific manufacturer’s recommendations for your sailboat to ensure accurate and safe sailing practices.

How Much Heel Is Too Much?

The acceptable heel angle for a sailboat depends on various factors, including the type of sailing and the specific boat design. Long-distance cruising boats may experience less heeling compared to racing monohulls. However, all sailboats are designed to sail at a specific angle of heel. Going beyond this angle can impact the boat’s performance and comfort. Excessive heel can make the boat difficult to control, slow it down, and create excessive strain on the rigging. It is important to find a balance between performance and comfort by making necessary adjustments to the sails and course to reduce excessive heeling.

How Far Can A Sailboat Heel Before Capsizing?

Sailboats with keels are designed to heel over without capsizing under normal sailing conditions. The weight of the keel provides stability and counterbalances the force of the wind in the sails. The boat’s rigging and design also play a role in preventing capsize. However, extreme conditions such as gale-force winds, large waves, and excessive sail area can potentially capsize a sailboat. In such situations, a sailboat may temporarily be knocked down or capsized, but it often self-rights or comes upright by itself. It is important to sail within safe limits and take appropriate measures, such as reefing the sails and reducing sail area, to avoid capsizing.

“Sailboats are designed to heel to a certain degree, and their stability depends on various factors such as keel design, weight distribution, and sail area.” – John Smith, experienced sailor

• Regularly check weather conditions and forecasts before setting sail to avoid unpredictable or extreme conditions.
• Practice proper sail trim and adjust the sails according to wind strength and direction to maintain control and stability.
• Ensure the boat’s rigging is in good condition and properly maintained for optimal performance and safety.
• Consider taking sailing courses or seeking guidance from experienced sailors to improve your understanding of heeling and sailing techniques.

How to Control Heeling on a Sailboat

To control and reduce heeling on a sailboat, sailors can utilize various techniques and adjustments to maintain control and stability. Here are some helpful tips for controlling heeling in sailing and reducing excessive tilt:

• Feathering Upwind: When sailing upwind, slightly steer the boat into the direction of the wind. This technique releases or spills wind out of the sails, decreasing the pressure and reducing heeling.
• Easing the Mainsheet or Traveler: Adjusting the mainsheet or traveler changes the angle of the mainsail, releasing wind pressure and allowing the boat to sail more upright. Experiment with different positions to find the optimal balance.
• Reefing the Sails: In strong winds, reefing the sails helps reduce their area, making them smaller and less prone to catching excessive wind. This can significantly decrease heeling and maintain control.
• Proper Sail Trim and Course Adjustment: Pay attention to sail trim by adjusting the sheets and halyards to achieve an optimal shape. Proper course adjustment ensures the boat is sailing at the correct angle to minimize heeling.

Understanding the balance between sail area, weight distribution, and wind pressure is key to controlling heeling on a sailboat. Sailors should also consider the specific design and characteristics of their boat, as well as the prevailing wind and sea conditions when making adjustments to sail trim and course.

Monitoring Wind Strength with a Masthead Wind Indicator

A masthead wind indicator can be a useful tool for sailors to monitor wind strength and make necessary adjustments. This device is typically mounted at the top of the mast and provides visual indication of wind direction and intensity. By keeping an eye on the wind indicator, sailors can quickly respond to changes in wind conditions, allowing for proactive adjustments to control heeling.

Remember, every sailboat is unique, so it may take some experimentation and practice to find the optimal combination of techniques and adjustments that work best for your specific vessel. By mastering the art of controlling heeling, you can enhance your sailing experience and ensure a safe and enjoyable journey.

Tips for Controlling Heeling in Sailing – A Quick Reference Guide

Heeling is a fundamental aspect of sailing, resulting from the force of the wind on the sails causing a sailboat to lean or tilt. Sailboats are designed to manage heeling within a certain range, and it is crucial for sailors to comprehend how to control and adjust it to ensure optimal performance and stability. By implementing techniques such as feathering upwind, adjusting sail trim, and reefing, excessive heeling can be reduced. Understanding the unique characteristics and design of your boat, as well as considering prevailing wind and sea conditions, allows for necessary adjustments and ensures a safe and enjoyable sailing experience.

Learning to respond effectively to heeling not only allows sailors to maintain control but also enhances their understanding of sailboat dynamics. Being aware of how heeling influences a sailboat’s behavior is vital for maintaining balance and maneuverability. Sailors must strike the right balance between heeling and stability to achieve the best sailing experience. By mastering the techniques to control heeling and making informed decisions based on prevailing conditions, sailors can navigate the waters with confidence and efficiency.

Understanding heeling in sailing is of utmost importance for sailors of all levels. It not only affects the performance and maneuverability of the boat but also ensures the safety and comfort of everyone on board. By embracing the art of sailing, sailors can harness the power of the wind while maintaining control over their vessel. So, whether you’re a seasoned sailor or new to the sport, take the time to learn and understand heeling, and embark on unforgettable sailing adventures with confidence and skill.

What is heeling in sailing?

Heeling in sailing refers to the leaning or tilting of a sailboat to either side (port or starboard) due to the force of the wind. It is a natural occurrence caused by the wind pressure on the sails.

What exactly makes a sailboat heel?

Sailboats heel when there is too much wind in the sails, causing the boat to lean over and lose some of its forward momentum. The wind pressure on the sails decreases as the boat heels, resulting in less pressure and force. The extent of heeling depends on factors such as the wind strength and the boat’s design and characteristics.

How do I keep my sailboat from heeling?

Sailors can control and reduce heeling by using various techniques such as feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails. Proper sail trim and course adjustment are also crucial for controlling heeling.

How much should a sailboat heel?

The optimal heeling angle for a sailboat is typically between 15 and 25 degrees, but this may vary depending on the specific boat design and conditions. Sailboats with keels are designed to heel over without capsizing, as the weight of the keel provides stability and helps the boat face into the wind.

How much heel is too much?

Going beyond the maximum heel angle can make the boat difficult to steer and slow it down. To reduce heeling, sailors can employ techniques such as feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails. Adjusting the sails and course according to the wind conditions is essential for maintaining control and stability while sailing.

How far can a sailboat heel before capsizing?

Sailboats with keels are designed to heel over without capsizing under normal sailing conditions. However, extreme conditions such as gale-force winds, large waves, and excessive sail area can potentially capsize a sailboat. It is important to sail within safe limits and take appropriate measures to avoid capsizing.

How to control heeling on a sailboat?

Sailors can control and reduce heeling by adjusting the sails through techniques such as feathering upwind, easing the mainsheet or traveler, and reefing the sails. Proper sail trim and course adjustment are crucial for maintaining control and stability. It is important to consider the specific boat design and characteristics, as well as the prevailing wind and sea conditions, when adjusting sail trim and course.

Source Links

• https://www.godownsize.com/sailboat-heeling-simple-terms/
• https://sailingellidah.com/sailboat-heeling/
• https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/heeling-explained.144031/

Nicholas Finn

I've been the captain of a fishing boat for over 20 years, and I created Pirateering to share my knowledge of and interest in seafaring.

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The 5 Points of Sail Explained

The 5 points of sail describe the angles a sailboat can sail relative to the wind direction, and we have a name for each of them:

• Close-hauled: Sailing close to the wind 
• Close reach: Bearing away from the wind
• Beam reach: The wind comes from the side
• Broad reach: Sailing away from the wind
• Running: Sailing downwind.

In this article, I’ll explain the points of sail from Close-hauled upwind sailing to Running downwind. We’ll look at the technicalities of each point and how to trim the sails accordingly. We will also walk through some of the nautical terms associated to make sure you are up to speed. Finally, I’ll share some of my best tips and strategies for downwind sailing with you!

The 5 points of sail explained

I made this points of sail diagram for your convenience. It illustrates the sailing angles to the wind and is helpful to identify the term for what point of sail you are on.

Looking at the illustration, you might wonder why the no-go zone isn’t included as a sixth point. The reason is that you can’t sail a boat directly into the wind. So, technically, it isn’t a point of sail. However, I will include it anyway since you head through this zone every time you make a tack.

I will talk about “true” and “apparent” wind when describing the points, so let’s take a quick look at what that actually means before we move on.

True and apparent wind briefly explained :

True wind speed is the actual wind velocity measured by a stationary object. Apparent wind speed is the wind velocity perceived by an object moving through the air, such as a boat or yourself. In other words, apparent wind speed combines the actual wind and the effective wind created by your motion.

This element is crucial to understand when sailing and of course, I have an excellent article on the topic: Learn more about the difference between true and apparent wind.

NO-GO-ZONE or In Irons – Head to wind

The no-go-zone is where the sail’s angle to the wind prevents it from generating lift. When a sail can’t generate lift, the boat stops, and the sails will start to flop around. This zone is usually about 35 – 45 degrees from the eye of the wind in both directions. That means you always have an area of 70 – 90 degrees towards the direction of the wind that you can’t ‘sail.

There are two occasions you want to have your bow into the wind, though .  When hoisting, lowering, and reefing the sails and briefly during a tack. A tack is when you move the sails from one side of the boat to the other as fast as possible to avoid losing the boat’s speed.

1. Close Hauled – Sailing close to the wind

Sailing close hauled is sailing as close to the wind as your boat allows.

Your sails are sheeted in tight, and if you change your course a little bit too much into the wind, your sails will start flopping, and you will lose your speed. The boat is heeling over to the side, which, for some, can be intimidating.

This point of sail is often called  beating  – with good reason.

The sail trim is crucial, and the person at the helm has to focus on keeping his point. This is also the point of sail where your apparent wind will be the highest in relation to the wind. You will often have waves and swell pounding into the bow, which can be challenging in rough conditions.

Learn more about  how high a sailboat can point in this article.

2. Close Reach – Bearing away from the wind

Once you bear away from being close-hauled, you get into close reach. You are now sailing between 50 and 80 degrees, give or take. This is a much easier point of sail as the person at the helm doesn’t have to be as sharp on the course, and you can ease off the sheets and let the sails out a bit.

The boat will usually calm down when bearing away from beating, and you’ll sail faster, too. The apparent wind strength is still higher than the actual wind, making it an efficient way of working yourself toward the wind without knocking your teeth out!

3. Beam Reach – The fastest point of sail

You are on a sweet beam reach once you bear away from a close reach and get to 90 degrees. This is a fast point of sail for most sailboats. The wind is coming from the side, and your true and apparent wind will be at a delta and show about the same speed.

Sheet your sails out about halfway, and the boat will sail fast and comfortably with excellent stability.

4. Broad Reach – Rig your boom preventer

Continuing to bear off from 90 degrees puts you on a broad reach down to about 135 degrees off the wind. You can now ease the sheets as you turn and will feel the wind speed decrease. This is because you are sailing away from it, and your apparent wind speed is now less than your actual wind speed.

Broad reaching is a very comfortable point of sail due to the lack of heeling. On a broad reach, the sail’s shape is less critical, and trimming in a bit of a belly will make it more powerful. You can accomplish this by adjusting the sheeting angle. Move the cars forward until the leech of the headsail is closed. A fluttering sail is an ineffective sail.

A broad reach is a comfortable point of sail; if conditions allow for it, it is the perfect time to get out your light-wind sail!

It is wise to rig up a boom preventer when sailing in any direction away from the wind. A boom preventer is a line run from a strong point ahead of the mast to the end of the boom. Its job is to prevent the boom from swinging over in case of a sudden, fatal wind change.

5. Running – Sailing downwind

The last point of sail is called running. Running is when you are sailing between 135 and 180 degrees downwind. At this point, you need to trim your sails by easing your sails out as much as possible. Be careful not to let the mainsail chafe against the spreaders and shrouds. Rig up your preventer now if you haven’t already!

As you continue past 135 degrees, you’ll see that the apparent wind speed decreases until you sail dead downwind. You’ll also notice that when you bear away from a broad reach, the mainsail will start blocking the wind to the headsail, and you will struggle to make it stand up.

Closing the circle of sailing points

When continuing around the running point, a gybe will put you over on a broad reach again on the opposite tack, and you can continue through the points up towards a close reach again. Then, making a tack will complete your 360-degree circle! Remember that the apparent wind increases when you get past 90 degrees from the wind.

You can read more about different types of sails here.

Sailing through our points of sail – Example

Like I said in the beginning, when we talk about the points of sail, we refer to the wind angles in relation to your sailing direction, not the compass rose.

Let’s take a quick, simplified example:

You are sailing on a course 0 degrees north. The wind is blowing straight from 90 degrees east onto the starboard side of your boat. This means you are sailing on a  starboard tack  on a  beam reach .

A friend tells you about this awesome beach bar not far away, and you want to change your course about 135 degrees to starboard to get there. This means you will eventually get the wind on the other side of the boat as you turn your wheel over to starboard. As you approach a close reach and get close-hauled, you tighten in your sheets and flatten your sails to keep the speed and momentum.

Once you get past 45 degrees heading, your sails will flap as you turn your bow straight into the wind or the  no-go zone . Now you need to make a  tack.  This means moving your sails over from port to starboard.

As your heading gets close to 135 degrees, the sails will fill with wind again, and you are now sailing  close-hauled  on a  port tack.

You also notice that the wind feels stronger because you’re sailing upwind.

Nautical terms used when sailing and navigating

Port Tack –  When the wind blows on the port side of your sails

Starboard Tack –  When the wind blows on the starboard side of your sails

Tacking  – When you steer the boat from a starboard tack to a port tack and vice versa  upwind .

Gybing-  When you steer the boat from a starboard tack to a port tack and vice versa  downwind .

Heeling  – When the wind fills the sails and leans the boat over to the side.

Boom preventer –  A line or rope tied to the end of the boom and led forward of the mast to prevent it from swinging over when sailing off the wind.

Overpowered –  When wind surpasses the boat’s ability to steer a straight course. This typically happens when you try to sail the vessel above your hull speed, carry too much sail area in strong winds, or trim your sails poorly.

Hull Speed  – The speed at which your boat is sailing when its created wave has the same length as the hull’s water length. Displacement sailboats get hard to steer when going faster than this.

You can learn more sailing terms in my sailor’s guide to nautical terms here .

Final words

There you have it! You now know your points of sailing and that they refer to the vessel’s angle relative to the direction of the true wind. You also learned that a sailboat cannot sail directly into the wind. Finally, we reviewed some good sailing options downwind and looked at some relevant sailing terminology. Now you have to hoist the sails and head out at sea!

FAQ – The 5 Points of Sail

What are the parts of a sail called.

The parts of a sail and their functions are as follows:

• Tack : This is the lower forward corner of the sail, anchoring it at its front bottom edge.
• Clew : Located at the lower aft (rear) corner, the clew is the point where the sail’s bottom and aft edges meet.
• Head : This is the sail’s top corner, opposite the tack and clew.
• Foot : The foot is the bottom edge of the sail, stretching between the tack and the clew.
• Luff : The luff refers to the sail’s front edge, running vertically between the tack and the head.
• Leech : The leech is the aft or rear edge of the sail, extending from the clew to the head.
• Telltales : These are small ropes, bands, or flags attached to the sail, which provide visual cues about the airflow around the sail.
• Battens : Battens are rigid elements, such as slates or tubes, inserted into pockets on the mainsail. They help maintain the sail’s shape and extend its lifespan.

You can read more in-depth about the parts of a sail here .

What are sail poles called?

“Spar” is the general term for a pole made of a solid material like wood or metal used to support a boat’s sail.

These include:

• Mast : A tall, vertical pole that supports the sails.
• Boom : A horizontal pole attached to the mast. It extends from the bottom of the mainsail, helping to control the angle and shape of the sail.
• Spinnaker Pole : A pole used to extend the foot of a spinnaker sail away from the boat, helping to stabilize and maximize the surface area of the sail.
• Whisker Pole: A pole used to hold out the clew of a headsail, like a jib or genoa, when sailing downwind.
• Bowsprit : Though not always considered a pole, a bowsprit is a spar extending from the vessel’s bow and typically used to support the tack of a headsail.
• Gaff : In traditional gaff-rigged sailboats, a gaff is a horizontal pole that, along with the boom, supports the top of a four-cornered sail.

You can read more about the different parts of a sailboat here .

Which point of sail is the fastest?

Beam Reach is the fastest, easiest, and most comfortable point of sail for most sailboats. The wind comes in from the side, and you have your sails about halfway out. When your sails are well trimmed, this is an efficient point that will allow you to sail fast with excellent stability in your boat.

Is it better to sail upwind or downwind?

What’s best between sailing upwind and downwind depends on where your destination is. Remember that your boat won’t be able to sail directly upwind but at an angle of about 35 degrees to your apparent wind direction.

Sailing downwind is comfortable, but ensure your boom preventer is in place for the deepest sailing angles. Also, remember that you will require more wind to sail downwind efficiently as your apparent wind speed is lower than the true wind speed. With enough wind, however, broad-reaching is a fantastic point of sail.

What are the three main points of sail?

The three main points of sail are:

• Beating: When sailing as close to the wind as your boat allows, typically 35-45 degrees.
• Reaching: Includes Close reach, Beam Reach, and Broad reaching, which means you are sailing between 50 and 120 degrees.
• Running: When you are sailing at lower angles than 120 degrees.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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Sailing the Heel

by Harbor Sailboats | May 30, 2018 | Blog | 0 comments

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Don’t Let Your Sailboat Sink: Tips and Tricks to Avoid Capsizing

Imagine you’re sailing on a beautiful day, enjoying the breeze and the waves. You feel relaxed and confident until you notice a sudden gust of wind that tilts your sailboat dangerously to one side. You panic and try to balance yourself, but it’s too late. Your sailboat capsizes and you find yourself in the water, struggling to stay afloat.

This scenario may sound scary, but it’s not uncommon. Capsizing is one of the most common accidents that can happen to sailboat owners, especially beginners. It can ruin your sailing experience and put your safety at risk. But don’t worry, there are ways to prevent and recover from capsizing that you can learn and practice.

In this article, we’ll answer the question “Will a sailboat tip over?” and show you how to avoid capsizing your sailboat. We’ll also give you some tips on how to deal with a capsized sailboat and get back on board. By the end of this article, you’ll be more prepared and confident to sail without fear of capsizing.

Key Takeaways Sailboats can tip over or capsize, but this is rare and usually only happens in extreme conditions or due to human error. The stability of a sailboat depends on several factors, such as its design, size, weight distribution, ballast, rigging, sails, and crew. Sailboats have different degrees of tipping or heeling, from normal to excessive. The most severe cases are blowdowns and knockdowns, which can cause damage or injury. To prevent your sailboat from tipping over or capsizing, you need to balance the forces of wind and water on your boat, adjust your sails and course accordingly, reef early and often, avoid sailing in storms or strong winds, and follow safety precautions. If your sailboat does tip over or capsize, you need to stay calm, assess the situation, activate your emergency devices, try to right the boat if possible, stay with the boat if not, and wait for rescue.

Do sailboats capsize easily?

Smaller and lighter sailboats, such as dinghies and catamarans, are more prone to capsizing than larger and heavier sailboats, such as keelboats and yachts. 

This is because smaller boats have less inertia and less righting moment (the force that restores the boat to an upright position) than larger boats.

However, this does not mean that larger boats are immune to capsizing. In fact, every boat that has ever been manufactured can capsize in certain conditions, such as hurricane-force winds. 

Still, sailboats are particularly susceptible to capsizing in strong winds by their very nature.

This is why sailors will reef their sails in higher winds. Reefing sails reduce the sail area to slow you down and prevent being pulled by the wind. 

There are usually two places of reinforcement (sometimes three or even four on certain distance cruising boats) that may be lowered to create a smaller sail on the mainsails. 

This reduced sail area decreases the pressure on the sails and makes the boat easier to handle and more upright in higher winds.

Another factor that affects how easily a sailboat can capsize is its stability. 

Stability is the ability of a boat to resist heeling (tilting) or capsizing when subjected to external forces, such as wind or waves. Stability can be divided into two types: initial stability and ultimate stability.

Initial stability is how stiff or tender a boat feels when it first starts to heel. A stiff boat has high initial stability and resists heeling up to a certain point. A tender boat has low initial stability and heels easily with little resistance.

Ultimate stability is how far a boat can heel before it capsizes. A boat with high ultimate stability can heel very far without capsizing. A boat with low ultimate stability can capsize at a relatively low angle of heel.

The stability of a boat is determined by its shape, weight distribution, ballast (the weight added to lower the center of gravity), and rigging (the arrangement of masts and sails). Different types of boats have different stability characteristics.

For example, multihull boats (such as catamarans and trimarans) have very high initial stability due to their wide beam (the width of the boat). 

They can sail very fast without heeling much at all. However, they have low ultimate stability because once they exceed their tipping point (usually around 45 degrees), they are very hard or impossible to right.

Monohull boats (such as dinghies and keelboats) have lower initial stability than multihulls but higher ultimate stability. They heel more easily but can also recover more easily from extreme angles of heel. 

Some monohulls have self-righting capabilities, meaning they can flip over and right themselves without any intervention.

How do I keep my sailboat from tipping over?

Your sailing angle is the direction you are sailing relative to the wind. Different sailing angles require different sail settings and techniques to optimize your speed and stability.

When sailing upwind (close-hauled or close-reached), you want to point your boat as close to the wind as possible without stalling your sails (losing power). 

You also want to keep your sails flat (not too full) by tightening your halyards (the lines that raise and lower your sails), outhauls (the lines that adjust the tension along the foot of your sails), cunninghams (the lines that adjust the tension along the luff of your sails), sheets (the lines that control the angle of your sails), and boom vangs (the lines that control the angle of your booms).

When sailing downwind (broad-reached or run), you want to point your boat away from the wind as much as possible without gybing your sails (changing sides). You also want to keep your sails full (not too flat) by loosening your halyards, outhauls, cunninghams, sheets, and boom vangs.

When sailing across the wind (beam-reached), you want to find a balance between pointing upwind and downwind that gives you maximum speed without compromising stability. You also want to adjust your sails accordingly by easing or tightening them slightly depending on the wind strength and direction.

Your sail trim is how you shape your sails to match the wind conditions and sailing angle. Proper sail trim allows you to harness the wind power efficiently and avoid excessive heeling or drag.

The main factors that affect your sail trim are:

• The draft: The depth or curvature of your sails.
• The twist: The difference in angle between the top and bottom of your sails.
• The slot: The gap between your mainsail and headsail.

You can adjust these factors by using various controls on your boat, such as:

• The traveler: The track that allows you to move your boom side-to-side.
• The backstay: The line that supports your mast from behind.
• The jib car: The device that slides along a track on your deck and controls the angle of your jib sheet.
• The barber hauler: The line that pulls your jib sheet inward or outward.
• The telltales: The small strips of fabric attached to your sails that indicate the airflow over them.

A good rule of thumb for sail trim is:

• When sailing upwind, you want a smooth draft with a minimal twist and a narrow slot.
• When sailing downwind, you want a deep draft with a maximum twist and a wide slot.
• When sailing across the wind, you want a moderate draft with a moderate twist and a medium slot.

You can use your telltales as guides for adjusting your sail trim. Ideally, you want all your telltales flying straight back parallel to each other. If they are fluttering or pointing in different directions, it means there is turbulence or separation in the airflow over your sails.

Some common signs of poor sail trim are:

• If your leeward telltales are stalling (hanging down), it means your sails are too tight or too full. You need to ease them slightly until they fly again.
• If your windward telltales are lifting (pointing up), it means your sails are too loose or too flat. You need to tighten them slightly until they fly again.
• If both sets of telltales are stalling or lifting at different times, it means your sails are not aligned properly. You need to adjust your traveler, backstay, jib car, or barber hauler until they fly together.

Your crew position is how you distribute your weight on board to counteract the heeling force of the wind on your sails. 

By moving yourself and/or other crew members toward or away from the windward side of the boat, you can change its angle of heel and its waterline shape.

When sailing upwind or across the wind, you can move your weight to the windward side of the boat to counteract the heeling force and keep the boat more upright. 

This also helps to lift the leeward side of the hull out of the water, reducing drag and increasing speed.

When sailing downwind, you can move your weight to the leeward side of the boat to keep the sails filled and prevent them from collapsing. 

This also helps to lower the windward side of the hull into the water, increasing stability and preventing broaching (turning sideways to the wind).

Your ballast is the weight added to your boat to lower its center of gravity and increase its stability. Most keelboats have a fixed ballast in the form of a heavy keel that extends below the hull. 

Some boats have movable ballast, such as water tanks or canting keels, that can be shifted from side to side to balance the boat.

The ballast acts as a counterweight to the wind force on the sails and helps to restore the boat to an upright position after heeling. The heavier and lower the ballast, the more stable the boat.

What happens if a sailboat flips over?

If a sailboat flips over completely, it is called a capsize. A capsize can be either a knockdown or a turtle.

A knockdown is when your boat is knocked over 90 degrees, to where the mast and sails are touching the water. A turtle is when your boat is completely upside down.

The consequences of a capsize depend on several factors, such as:

• The type and size of your boat
• The water temperature and depth
• The wind and wave conditions
• The availability of flotation devices and safety equipment
• The skill and preparedness of the crew

In general, capsizing is more dangerous and difficult to recover from on larger keelboats than on smaller dinghies and catamarans. This is because larger boats have more inertia and more enclosed spaces that can trap water and air, making them harder or impossible to right by yourself.

On smaller boats, capsizing is usually not a big deal, as long as you are wearing a life jacket and know how to right your boat. In fact, some sailors practice capsizing drills regularly to improve their skills and confidence.

Can a sailboat flip over and right itself?

Most self-righting boats are monohulls with heavy keels that act as ballasts. Some examples are:

• Ocean racing yachts
• Offshore cruising yachts
• Rescue boats

Some self-righting boats have additional features that enhance their ability to right themselves, such as:

• Watertight compartments that prevent flooding
• Self-draining cockpits that expel water
• Buoyant masts that prevent turtling
• Canting keels that adjust their angle

However, not all sailboats are self-righting. Some boats have low ultimate stability and a high center of gravity that makes them prone to staying inverted after capsizing. These include:

• Multihulls (catamarans and trimarans)
• Dinghies (without flotation devices)
• Planing boats (with flat hulls)

These boats require external assistance or intervention to right themselves. This may involve:

• Using a line or a paddle to lever the boat upright
• Standing on the centerboard or daggerboard
• Climbing onto the hull or mast
• Swimming under the boat to release trapped air
• Calling for help from other boats or rescue services

How far can a sailboat heel?

A sailboat can heel as far as its ultimate stability allows. This is usually measured by its capsize ratio or capsize screening formula (CSF).

The capsize ratio is a parameter used to show whether a boat can recover from an inverted, capsized position or not. It is calculated by dividing the beam (width) of the boat by the cube root of its displacement (weight).

According to some experts, a capsize ratio of 2 or less indicates a very stable boat that can withstand extreme conditions without capsizing. A capsize ratio of 4 or more indicates an unstable boat that can easily capsize in moderate conditions.

However, the capsize ratio is not a definitive indicator of a boat’s stability or safety. It does not take into account other factors that affect how a boat behaves in real situations, such as:

• The shape and design of the hull
• The distribution and type of ballast
• The rigging and sail plan
• The crew’s skill and experience
• The weather and sea state

Therefore, it is best to use the capsize ratio as a rough guide rather than a rule.

How to avoid capsizing a sailboat?

The best way to avoid capsizing a sailboat is to sail within your limits and prepare for changing conditions. Here are some tips on how to do that:

• Check the weather forecast before you go sailing and plan accordingly.
• Choose a suitable boat for your sailing area and purpose.
• Wear appropriate clothing and safety gear, such as life jackets, harnesses, tethers, etc.
• Inspect your boat regularly and maintain it properly.
• Know your boat’s capabilities and limitations.
• Learn how to trim your sails correctly for different wind angles and strengths.
• Reef your sails early when the wind increases.
• Reduce speed when sailing in rough seas or near obstacles.
• Balance your weight distribution on board.
• Avoid sailing too close to shore or in shallow water.
• Avoid sailing in crowded areas or near large vessels.
• Practice capsizing drills on smaller boats or in controlled environments.
• Know how to right your boat if it capsizes.
• Carry communication devices and emergency equipment on board.
• Seek help if you are in trouble.

Sailboat capsizing is one of the most common fears among sailors, but it does not have to be. By understanding what causes it, how to prevent it, and how to recover from it, you can sail with confidence and enjoy your time on the water.

We hope this article has answered some of your questions about sailboat capsizing and given you some useful tips on how to sail safely and efficiently.

If you liked this article, please share it with your sailing friends or leave us a comment below. We would love to hear from you!

Happy sailing!

To sail through the storm means to overcome a difficult or challenging situation with courage and resilience. It can also mean enduring or surviving a storm at sea.

Ships survive storms by following some of the same principles as sailboats: reducing speed, balancing weight, steering into or away from the wind and waves, using stabilizers or ballast tanks, and seeking shelter or open water as needed.

Yes, you should lower sails in a storm, or at least reduce sail area by reefing or switching to storm sails. This will help you control your boat better and prevent damage from high winds.

Sailing ships do different things in a storm depending on their size, type, design, crew, equipment, and situation. Some of the common things they do are: reefing sails, switching to storm sails, running before the storm, heaving-to, lying ahull, forereaching, etc.

You steer a ship in a storm by using your rudder and sails (or engine) to adjust your course and speed according to the wind and wave direction. You should try to avoid sailing on a reach across tall breaking waves, as they can roll your ship over. You should also try to sail away from the storm’s path, especially its dangerous semicircle.

Remember, sailing is an exciting and rewarding activity that can be enjoyed safely with the right knowledge and preparation. By understanding the dynamics of sailing, implementing proper safety measures, and respecting the power of the wind and water, you can embark on unforgettable sailing adventures while keeping your sailboat upright and secure.

For more information on sailing and related topics, check out the following articles:

• How Much Does a Sail Cost?
• What to Wear Sailing in Cold Weather
• Sailing Terms for Beginners
• The Difference Between Sailing and Yachting

Note: The links provided are for informational purposes and not specifically related to the topic of capsizing sailboats.

Saiful Emon is the founder and editor of Sun Sea Skis , a sailing blog for adventure seekers. He loves sailing, traveling, and sharing his experiences with others. He also writes about fitness, wellness, business, and marketing in his spare time!

How to Survive Sailing in a Storm: Tips and Tricks for a Safe Voyage

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Sailing Terms Everyone Should Know

By: American Sailing Sailboats

Knowing the right sailing terms to use on board a boat is not JUST a way of sounding super cool and impressing your friends. (Though it works for that, too.) It’s actually very useful, and sometimes crucial in communicating while you’re sailing. Some of the vocabulary used on board boats can sound arcane, which it is! That’s part of what’s fun about it; we’re still using terms that have been used by sailors for hundreds of years. So when you know your terminology, you’re participating in the grand sailing tradition, and you don’t have to say, “Can you hand me that…thing?”

photo by b. cohen

Here are the key sailing terms you’ll want to know as you begin learning to sail !

• Port: Facing forward, this is anything to the left of the boat. When you’re onboard, you can use this term pretty much any time you would normally say “left.” Starboard: Facing forward, this is anything to the right of the boat. Same deal as “port”–only the opposite.
• Bow/Stern: The bow is the front of the boat, the stern is the back. Anything near the front of the boat is referred to as being “forward,” and anything toward the back is “aft” or “astern.”
• Point of Sail: The boat’s direction relative to the wind. For example, if you’re going straight into the wind, your point of sail is called “in irons.” (Note: This isn’t a good place to be!) If the wind is blowing straight over the side of the boat, that’s called a “beam reach.” There are 8 commonly used points of sail, and it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with them before going out.
• Helm: Where you steer the boat. Usually this is a big wheel, but on smaller boats it can be a tiller, which is basically a long wooden stick. Either of these can be used to control the boat’s rudder.
• Keel: The keel is a long, heavy fin on the bottom of the boat that sticks down into the water. It provides stability and is the reason why modern sailboats are nearly impossible to capsize.
• Heeling: This is the term for when a sailboat leans over in the water, pushed by the wind. There’s nothing else like the thrill of heeling over as your sails fill and your speed picks up!
• Tack: This term has two distinct meanings, both of them very important. As a verb, to tack is to change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind. As a noun, your tack is the course you are on relative to the wind. For example, if the wind is blowing over the port side, you are on a port tack. If it’s blowing over the starboard side, you’re on a…you guessed it…starboard tack.
• Jibe: A jibe is another way of changing direction, in which you bring the stern of the boat through the wind. Whether you choose to tack or jibe entirely depends on the situation–what’s around you, and the direction of the wind.
• Windward: The side of the boat closest to the wind. When heeling over, this will always be the high side.
• Leeward: The side of the boat furthest from the wind. When heeling over, this will always be the low side.
• Lines: On board a boat, this is what you say instead of “ropes.”
• Mainsail: The big triangular sail just aft of the sailboat’s mast. As the name suggests, this is the boat’s largest and most important sail. Running along its bottom edge, the mainsail has a thick pole called the boom.
• Jib: The next most common sail on any boat. The jib can always be found forward of the mast, and unlike the mainsail, does not have a boom.

  Getting familiar with these sailing terms is an important step. Not only will you sound like you know what you’re doing, you’ll quickly begin to realize that with the right practice and training, you really DO know what you’re doing!

Try our online sailing term quizzes: Sailing Terms 1 | Sailing Terms 2 | Sailing Terms 3 | Sailing Terms 4

Learning to Sail

• ASA 101: What You’ll Learn ASA 101 is your introduction to Basic Keelboat Sailboat and is your key to a lifetime of sailing.
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• 7 Tips For The Beginning Sailor There are the obvious things you need when you go sailing, sunscreen, a hat, a windbreaker, non-skid shoes, and wind. However, what do you really need to be ready to head out on the water?
• How To Learn To Sail You won’t have to buy a boat or learn a new language or buy a new wardrobe to get a taste for sailing. You can dictate how much you want to experience.
• Learning To Sail Is Just The Beginning Sailing means different things to different people. At ASA we understand that learning to sail is just the beginning of a relationship with a lifestyle that is infectious. Where will sailing take you? We have a few ideas but how you view sailing is the most important.
• What Is Your Role on a Boat? What type of sailor are you and what role do you take on the boat? Your ASA sailing education will prepare you to be a skipper on a sailing vessel and with that comes the responsibility of keeping your crew safe and ensuring the safety of the vessel you are sailing.

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Optimal Angle of Heeling

By andrew lesslie.

Have you noticed how some sailors stretch out ahead upwind, while others fall back?

Part of making good progress upwind is keeping the boat to an optimal angle of heel. Too little and you give up power, too much and you might feel fast, but are losing height.

The Merit 25 is wide at the waterline, but has little flare from the waterline to the sheerline. If the boat is heeled too far, the buoyancy concentrated close to the waterline lifts the keel and rudder to the surface very easily.

Take a look at the shot below and note the white water exiting from just astern of the keel. This is indicative of an abrupt and uncontrolled release of pressure from behind the keel, showing that at this, excessive heel angle the boat is unable to convert the drive from the sails to forward motion.

So what does that look like from astern? Here we can clearly see that the underside of the boat on the windward side is entirely out of the water.     Note also the pressure wave that flowing from the rudder, indicating that the boat is sliding sideways and making leeway rather than driving to windward.

In their defense, this boat is lightly crewed and is cruising, they’re dealing with gusts by feathering up into the wind rather than actively trimming.   Note also the loose mainsail luff and very full sails.  Neither is conducive to upwind performance.

So what should you be aiming for? A good heel angle for the Merit 25 is 15° – 20°, less than you would heel a J/24. 

When you find your heel angle exceeding this, move crew weight to windward, flatten the sails and keep the main sheet out of the cleat so your trimmer can ease in  the puffs and sheet back in during the lulls.

In gusty conditions, the benefits from active mainsheet trimming typically exceed the benefits of the extra crew member on the rail.    

The bonus of having another crew member in the cockpit is that they can watch the compass while teh skipper concentrates on driving and can glance regularly under the jib for boats and obstacles.

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The Windward Heeling Technique

In heavy weather sailing, the Windward Heeling Technique is crucial for maintaining control and stability. Discover how it can help ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience for you and your family.

Welcome to our latest addition to the Sailing Skills and Techniques section of our blog! In this article, we will be discussing the Windward Heeling Technique, an essential skill for heavy weather sailing. As you embark on your sailing adventures with your family, it’s crucial to be prepared for all types of weather conditions. Heavy weather sailing can be challenging, but with the right knowledge and skills, you can safely navigate through rough seas and strong winds.

This comprehensive guide will cover the following topics:

Understanding Windward Heeling

The importance of windward heeling in heavy weather sailing, how to execute the windward heeling technique, tips for mastering windward heeling, common mistakes to avoid.

So, let’s dive in and learn more about the Windward Heeling Technique and how it can help you and your family stay safe and enjoy your sailing adventures.

Windward Heeling is a sailing technique that involves intentionally leaning the boat towards the wind, also known as heeling to windward. This technique is used to counteract the force of the wind on the sails, which can cause the boat to lean away from the wind, known as leeward heeling. By heeling the boat to windward, you can maintain better control and balance, especially in heavy weather conditions.

When sailing in heavy weather, the wind’s force on the sails can be quite strong, causing the boat to heel excessively to leeward. This can lead to instability, loss of control, and even capsizing in extreme cases. By using the Windward Heeling Technique, you can counteract this force and maintain a more stable and controlled sailing experience.

As mentioned earlier, heavy weather sailing can be challenging and potentially dangerous if not handled correctly. Windward Heeling is an essential technique for maintaining control and stability in these conditions. Here are some reasons why Windward Heeling is crucial in heavy weather sailing:

Improved Stability: By heeling the boat to windward, you can counteract the force of the wind on the sails, which helps maintain the boat’s stability. This is especially important in heavy weather, where strong winds can cause excessive leeward heeling and potential capsizing.

Better Control: Windward Heeling allows you to maintain better control over the boat’s direction and speed. In heavy weather, strong winds can make it difficult to steer and maintain a steady course. By heeling to windward, you can counteract the wind’s force and maintain better control over your boat.

Reduced Strain on Rigging and Sails: Heavy weather sailing can put a lot of strain on your boat’s rigging and sails. By heeling to windward, you can reduce the force of the wind on the sails, which helps to minimize wear and tear on your boat’s equipment.

Increased Comfort for Crew: Sailing in heavy weather can be uncomfortable and tiring for the crew. By using the Windward Heeling Technique, you can create a more stable and comfortable environment for your family, making it easier to endure rough conditions.

Now that we understand the importance of Windward Heeling in heavy weather sailing, let’s discuss how to execute this technique. Here are the steps to follow:

Monitor the Wind and Weather Conditions: Before attempting the Windward Heeling Technique, it’s essential to monitor the wind and weather conditions. This will help you determine when it’s necessary to use this technique and how much windward heeling is required.

Adjust the Sails: To heel the boat to windward, you’ll need to adjust the sails accordingly. Start by easing the mainsail and tightening the jib. This will cause the boat to lean towards the wind. Continue adjusting the sails until the desired amount of windward heeling is achieved.

Steer into the Wind: As you adjust the sails, you’ll also need to steer the boat into the wind. This will help maintain the windward heeling position and counteract the force of the wind on the sails.

Maintain Balance and Control: While executing the Windward Heeling Technique, it’s essential to maintain balance and control over the boat. Keep a firm grip on the helm and be prepared to make adjustments as needed to maintain the desired amount of windward heeling.

Monitor and Adjust as Needed: Heavy weather conditions can change rapidly, so it’s essential to continually monitor the wind and weather and adjust your Windward Heeling Technique as needed. This will help you maintain control and stability throughout your heavy weather sailing experience.

Here are some tips to help you master the Windward Heeling Technique:

Practice in Moderate Conditions: Before attempting Windward Heeling in heavy weather, practice this technique in moderate wind conditions. This will help you become more comfortable with the process and better prepared for heavy weather sailing.

Communicate with Your Crew: When executing the Windward Heeling Technique, it’s essential to communicate with your crew. Make sure everyone is aware of the plan and their responsibilities during the process.

Stay Alert and Focused: Heavy weather sailing requires constant attention and focus. Stay alert and be prepared to make adjustments as needed to maintain control and stability.

Learn from Experience: As with any sailing skill, practice and experience are the best teachers. The more you practice Windward Heeling, the more confident and skilled you’ll become in executing this technique.

Finally, let’s discuss some common mistakes to avoid when using the Windward Heeling Technique:

Over-heeling: While some windward heeling is beneficial, over-heeling can be counterproductive and potentially dangerous. Be sure to monitor the amount of windward heeling and adjust as needed to maintain control and stability.

Ignoring Weather Conditions: Always pay close attention to the wind and weather conditions when sailing, especially in heavy weather. Ignoring these factors can lead to dangerous situations and make it difficult to execute the Windward Heeling Technique effectively.

Poor Communication: As mentioned earlier, communication is crucial when executing the Windward Heeling Technique. Make sure your crew is aware of the plan and their responsibilities during the process.

Lack of Practice: The Windward Heeling Technique requires practice and experience to master. Don’t wait until you’re in heavy weather to attempt this technique for the first time. Practice in moderate conditions to build your skills and confidence.

In conclusion, the Windward Heeling Technique is an essential skill for heavy weather sailing. By understanding the importance of this technique and learning how to execute it effectively, you can maintain control and stability in challenging conditions, ensuring a safe and enjoyable sailing experience for you and your family. So, practice this technique, stay alert, and enjoy your sailing adventures!

Sailing Tips: How To Heave To

Last Updated by

Gabriel Hannon

August 30, 2022

The ability to heave-to is a key part of seamanship that can keep you safe on the water in any breeze strength.

Throughout this article, we will discuss the basic requirements and steps necessary to heave-to and the advantages of doing so in various conditions. We will go through the basic physics of the position and help you to understand why it is such an effective way to slow down your boat.

While there are various positions that are roughly equivalent to heaving-to, including the safety position for smaller boats and fore-reaching in certain conditions, this is a highly useful skill that gives you a good balance of safety, position holding, and quick maneuverability while on the water. It may require some practice and a few erstwhile attempts before you get the complete hand of it, but in situations where you want to put the brakes on without anchoring your boat, heaving-to is a great solution!

As a certified small boat instructor, I have helped all levels of sailors learn how to perform this maneuver in dinghies and similar boats, but its utility is further extended for keelboats and other cruising classes, including catamarans and trimarans. From my conversations with cruisers and a bevy of research, I can assure you that, as long as you’ve got a mainsail and a headsail, this is a viable option for your needs. Maybe I’ll even be able to give you an insight or two into the physics of the whole setup, but first, let’s take a look at the basic premise and a few steps that will help you get there.

Table of contents

‍ The Basics of the Heave-To

While highly maneuverable and not always the easiest to execute, the fundamental premise of the heave-to is not terribly complicated.

Though the balance and the angle will be slightly different depending on the boat and the breeze, there are four basic characteristics of heaving-to.

Angle to the Wind

Though not explicitly included in the diagram, you should expect to be somewhere around 45-50° to the breeze while in this position. This should be far enough from the breeze that your main is not luffing too hard, but close enough that you aren’t powering up too much.

Jib to Windward

Now this is the most important characteristic of heaving-to. While normally frowned upon, and potentially dangerous when unanticipated, backing the jib like this is what gives you stability in this position. You trim the jib, genoa, or other similar headsail with the windward sheet and keep it locked down. If heaving-to in heavy breeze, it is good to employ a storm jib or to reef your headsail if possible to keep it from being too tensioned up in this position, as a big gust could pull your bow well off the breeze and cause trouble.

Main Trimmed

Trimming the main in this position serves two purposes. First, it balances out the jib's pull to turn downwards. This is why you would not take the main down when attempting to heave-to. Second, it preserves the main from the luffing that will age it very quickly. Moreover, if you want to exit this position, you already have your main set for the close-hauled course that you would take on right afterward. Similarly to the jib, you may find that reefing the sail helps in heavy winds, or is useful in balancing the sails overall.

Tiller to Leeward

Keeping the tiller to leeward helps you maintain this position in two ways. First, it continues to balance the jib’s attempts to draw you off the breeze. Second, by opening the rudder’s face to the water flowing under the boat, you are essentially using the rudder as a sea anchor, helping you to slow down even more and continue to hold your position.

These four steps are the baseline characteristics of heaving-to. How this will work on your boat depends on many factors that you cannot necessarily control or anticipate before you get on the water. That is why, rather than giving you a detailed boat by boat procedure, we are going to talk about some of the fundamental physics that you are working with when heaving-to, so that you know how to adjust for yourself when certain things are happening the first few times you try this out.

The Physics of Sail Control

In the type of boats with the headsail-mainsail sail plans where heaving-to is most effective, be it a catamaran, trimaran, keelboat, winged-keelboat, or simple dinghy, there are a few basic forces with which you have to contend while maneuvering of which heaving-to takes advantage. In order to talk about that, however, we first have to deal with

Centers of Effort and Resistance

In sailing in general, the goal of upwind sailing is to balance what we call the ‘center of effort’ with the ‘center of resistance.’

The center of effort is the theoretical point on your sails from which you generate all of the lifting force for forward motion. It is essentially the engine of your sails and the mathematical center of the sail plan.

The center of resistance is the point somewhere underwater on your hull -- on a keelboat it will be somewhere close to that keel -- which provides the lateral resistance that helps your boat move forward, rather than sliding with the wind.

Ideally, your boat is set up so that when you are trimmed to go upwind, the center of effort is directly above the center of resistance. Once you do this, all that lift generated by the center of effort is channeled forwards by the center of resistance. If they are misaligned, or your sails are overpowered for your boat, you will slide laterally. This is why over-heeling your boat to leeward tends to be slow and cause you to sleep sideways, as this effectively reduces the resistive force. Thus reefing, even though it lessens your sail area and reduces the lift generated, actually helps you go forward in heavy breeze as it keeps you from heeling as much and ensures that your centers of effort and resistance are still lined up.

But I digress. The real point of this is to talk about…

Sail Trim and the Center of Effort

Since controlling the balance of the center of effort is crucial to keeping your boat moving, it is useful to know how each sail affects the center of effort. On most boats, the center of effort is at the deepest part of your mainsail, called the draft, about ⅓ of the way back on that sail. This means that you can consider that as the central axis of your boat.

If you move to trim your jib -- or genoa or other headsail -- you are essentially adding more force forward of that central axis, which, in turn, pulls the bow of your boat down, away from the wind. If you overtrim your jib or, even worse, backwind it coming out of a tack, you will feel your boat pulling downwind towards a reach, or even dead downwind if unchecked.

On the other hand, if you move to trim your main in, you will be adding more pressure to the back half of your main, effectively turning your bow upwind (you can even think about it as pushing your stern downwind!).

It is this balance of jib trim and main trim that keeps your boat sailing forwards and your rudder light and helm-free. You can, in fact, use this phenomenon, along with some bodyweight steering in smaller boats, to effectively sail your boat without a rudder, either for fun or in case of a breakdown. Many double-handed race teams actually do this to practice perfecting their sail trim!

Using this to Heave-To

Ok, ok, that’s a lot of that talk, but how does this help you figure out how to find the perfect heave-to balance for your boat. Well, it actually gives you a pretty good sense!

Heaving-to takes advantage of this balance and flips it on its head. Instead of using these characteristics of the main and the jib to propel you forward, heaving-to uses them to stall out your boat entirely. By trimming the jib to weather, a move that would normally tear you down to a beam reach in a second, keeping the main working, and throwing the tiller over, you effectively have fixed your boat somewhere around 45° to the wind.

If you think about the relationships a little more, you see that each of the three main controls, jib, main, and tiller, are effectively keeping each other in check. The jib cannot pull you off the breeze because of the dual action of the main keeping the stern down and the rudder turning the boat back upwind if it gets any flow. The main will not propel the boat forward because the backwinding of the jib is choking off its airflow, and even if it did get moving it would push too close to the breeze and start luffing. Finally, the rudder, positioned as it is, both acts as a brake against the water underneath and helps keep the boat from turning down, which could end this game of dynamic tension.

Troubleshooting

Because this balance relies so much on the individual characteristics of your boat, it is difficult to say exactly what trim settings you will need to maintain this position for a long time. Therefore, it is up to you to experiment!

If you find that your jib is overpowering your mainsail, pulling you off the breeze, you may have to either reef the jib, push the tiller over farther, pull the jib farther to weather, or get more power in the main. With the opposite problem, you may find it necessary to reef the main quite a bit, or find a better way to haul your jib to weather. It is good to have a rough guess of how to set your boat to heave-to in various wind conditions, as it may be different across sea states and breeze strengths, so I would encourage you to try it out a few times on a few different days so that you know before you need it!

How to Heave-To

After all of that, I would be remiss not to give you the rundown of the easiest way to get your boat in the heave-to position. While it is occasionally possible to simply sail upwind, luff your sails for the moment, and heave your jib to weather, this is not necessarily the most efficient way to do it, and it can put excessive strain on your sails and sheets (and yes, that really is why they call it ‘heaving-to!’).

In general, you accomplish the heave-to by sailing upwind then turning your boat into a nice, slow tack. As you do this, keep your headsail trimmed to the sheet on the old tack, so that when you come out of it, you are trimmed on the weather side.

As you come out of the tack and the backwinded jib is trying to pull you off the breeze, keep your tiller pushed, or wheel turned, to leeward. If you don’t overdo it, the fight between the jib pulling you down and the rudder turning you up should stall your boat out so that you are more or less stopped in the water. Throughout this whole process, the main should be trimmed-in, approximately to where you have it when sailing close-hauled, a little looser if anything, but not luffing.

When you find the point where the main is not ragging, the jib is full but not pulling you down, and the tiller is set, you have effectively heaved-to! Again, finding the right balance may not be that easy, and may require various reefing, trimming, and steering adjustments. These are too many to count, which is why I hope the explainer on the various forces that you are trying to balance will help you diagnose any potential issues you have so that you can make these adjustments as you go!

You should find that this is a highly effective way to stop your boat without the need to drop anchor or your sails. In fact, the little forward progress that you will make from the fact that your sails are still filled should be just about enough to keep your position against the wind and the waves, which would drive you backward in any other unanchored arrangement.

Like anything else in sailing, however, it takes a few attempts, a couple of tweaks, and a good feel for your own boat to master the heave-to, so I hope you take this as a good excuse to get back on the water. Happy Sailing!

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I have been sailing since I was 7 years old. Since then I've been a US sailing certified instructor for over 8 years, raced at every level of one-design and college sailing in fleet, team, and match racing, and love sharing my knowledge of sailing with others!

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How far can I heel over? Will I tip?

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My father and I just purchased a 32 foot Catalina and am feeling a bit uneasy when the wind kicks up. We are sailing off the coast of Long Beach, CA and just want to know if it's possible to tip this boat over? I have been getting the rail pretty close to the water very consistently but keep backing off for fear of tipping. I would like to go as fast and heel over as much as possible, all the time staying safe. How far is too far over? Am I even close to the limit? I have sailed 22 & 14 ft boats and this is a whole new world. Any and all advice would be much appreciated!  

There is not a linear correlation between heel and speed. Eventually, you are heeled over so far, that the keel is not doing it's job, and all you're doing is sliding sideways and going slow. It looks exciting, but that's about it. Keep it between 10-25 degrees. You can buy an inclinometer at West Marine or Defender.com.  

What Bubble said. Most modern cruising boats are not designed to sail efficiently heeled over and the tub (said lovingly) that is a Catalina, definitely not. It's exciting, but chances are you won't get there faster. I think, theoretically, it's possible to capsize any boat.  

DRFerron said: I think, theoretically, it's possible to capsize any boat. Click to expand...

Practically speaking you cannot tip over a keel boat like a Cat32 with white sails. If the boat heels excessively, it will automatically turn towards the wind, overwhelming any effort you could make to maintain let alone increase, the heel angle. Over 20 degrees or so of heel, most boats start to experience increasing sideslip so progress upwind is actually reduced by the excessive heel. If you really go looking for trouble...large sea action or an out-of-control spinnaker can lay a keel boat over, or even roll one, but for most production boats like Catalina, the boat's inherent stability will roll it back...  

The Wind can get rather heavy in the late afternoon outside in LB. How far can you heel over ? - until 'green' water is flowing over the gunwhales How far should you heel over for speed ? - Heeling modern boats beyond 10-20 degrees produces a sensation of speed, but all you are doing is moving sideways faster. Ease the main in puffs, tighten in lulls - it is called "working the main". Have fun - and keep us posted !  

You cannot capsize a keel boat with wind alone. It needs breaking waves much higher than the width of the boat. The rule of thumb for maximum hell is 17 degrees. This might vary from boat to boat. But after this degree you will be loosing speed therefore it is best to reduce sail or change to more favorable wind angle.  

Wow! Thank you all so much for such quick replies with fantastic information!!! -Shad  

If you're out and the wind builds, but you don't want to reef the main, letting the jib out will spill some of the wind and decrease heel. It's not the most efficient way to sail, but I've done it myself on occasion when I had "sensitive" passengers onboard. Also, if you ever get real scared, just point the boat straight into the wind. Everything will stop, the boat will right itself from heeling, and you can take a second to gather your thoughts. Mike  

Here's a video that demonstrates what will most likely happen if she goes too far over: huntercapsize02 - YouTube You won't be up a creek but it'll cause a mess. Hopefully you can hang on until she pops back up.  

Reef, reef reef,  

Furl, furl, furl. Get a genoa with foam sewn into the luff and the shape will be better when you try to furl the jib in and still get decent sail shape. Otherwise, reef the main as deniseO30 suggests.  

Pinching all the way into the wind can bring you to a stop and make it hard to keep control, but if you "feather" or pinch partially while still keeping some control and forward motion, you can calm things down quite a bit. Also, old, baggy sails are not your friend when the wind comes up -- you will want the sail relatively flat, with controls adjusted for the wind (usually that means some outhaul pulled out, some cunningham down, traveler eased a bit and able to ease yet more in puffs, backstay more tensioned if you can do that, etc., depending upon your boat). For many boats, "tuning guides" are written to suggest settings for different conditions. A rigger, sailmaker, or experienced sailor could give you tips on how to get the most out of your boat. PS Most chicks don't really dig excess heel.  

As people have said, it's very difficult to get a displacement boat over - I was helming a Sadler 25 under full genoa only in a F6 through the bridges on the Forth and we got laid flat by a sudden gust. Water came over the coamings and we were hanging on to the stanchions, but the boat rounded up and came back up as the sail depowered. I hasten to add: the sail plan was not my decision! Other boats like to be sailed on their ear: Elizabethan 29's have a 3' longer wetted area if heeled hard. They apparently sail best when you see mullet through the window. I always liked it when my Dad sailed our boat like that - it's fun when you're a kid.  

You are afraid of what you don't know, but that is normal. You have to understand the physics of what is going on with a sailboat. Imagine a weeble-wobble toy, If you take a blow dryer and blow it over, it will pop back up once the wind is off of it. If it blows hard enough, it will lie on its side or get blown aside. A boat is like a weeble-wobble. Look at a racing boat out of the water, That big thing at the bottom is a weight that is solid lead, or steel. It keeps the boat upright while in the water,like a weeble-wobble. All sail boats have them (most, not cats,etc.) Other forces are going on with the sails, they actually form a negative pressure on the lee side and pull, not push, the boat along. It is all simple physics, not like the physics in college which I failed! Once you understand the forces going on you will feel safer.  

Ask around It would also be useful to ask other owners of that hull form what they find the optimal heel is on your boat. Asking someone with a lot of racing experience out for an afternoon to put your boat through the paces will help. When I first started sailing keelboats, I was in the same situation as you. Going out with someone I knew to be experienced and competent in the class of boat I was sailing on a breezey day showed me just what was possible. I've seen water to the windows on the racer/cruisers I've been on, but as others have mentioned, that's probably not super efficient. You might try crewing for a year of weeknights on a racer of similar size. Then you won't put the stress on your rig, but will see boats being pushed for optimal performance - it's a great way to learn beyond the basics.  

You will undoubtedly heel over and tip if you're learning to sail on a Laser or other small dinghy in a strong breeze -- and it would likely make you a better sailor with a strong intuitive understanding of the physics and physical side of sailing!  

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Here’s Why Sailboats Don’t Tip Over (Explained For Beginners)

Sailboats can tip over, though it is rare among keelboats.

Dinghies can flip over easily, depending on experience and conditions.

So with their big sails, why don’t sailboats tip over all the time?

Here’s Why Sailboats Don’t Tip Over (that often):

Sailboats are designed to heel over, and the more they heel, the more stable they become. This is because of the weight of the keel, counterbalancing the force on the sails. The more the boat heels, the more the weight of a keel acts as a lever to keep the boat upright.

Table of Contents

How Often do Sailboats Actually Tip Over?

Dinghies tip over frequently. Dinghy races are filled with capsizes, even by experienced sailors.

This is because you are pushing the boat to its speed limit in a race, and you will often be unable to release the pressure from the sails before the boat tips over.

Even outside of a race, though, dinghies are more prone to flipping. They do not have enough internal ballast to avoid it.

Catamarans usually tip over less often than dinghies, as their wider platform has more initial stability than monohulls. When they do tip over, it can be more catastrophic as they move faster.

Keelboats rarely tip over. Their ballast and weight distribution make them far more stable than dinghies.

What Prevents a Sailboat from Tipping Over?

In conjunction with other weight, the keel or centerboard is primarily what keeps a boat from capsizing.

This is essentially called ballast. There is ballast in the keel, and there is also usually ballast in the hull itself. The ballast in the keel is more efficient, as it directly works to counterbalance the force on the sails.

On boats such as dinghies, crew weight makes up a substantial amount of the boat’s ballast. This is why you will often see crew members hiking out over the rail; the further they are from the center-line of the boat, the more efficient their weight becomes as ballast.

Hull design can also help prevent sailboats from tipping over. A wider hull, for instance, will have more initial stability and help keep a boat upright.

Also, most deep-V designs will become more stable as the boat heels, as it becomes wider as it heels.

Paradoxically, a sailboat becomes more resistant to heeling the more it heels. This is because the tipping force decreases, and the righting moment increases. The righting moment is essentially the force from the keel.

If a boat is knocked all the way over, the heeling or tipping force is now gone, and the righting force is all that remains, so barring other conditions (like waves), the keelboat will begin to right itself.

But the righting moment usually counteracts the tipping moment before we reach this state.

What Does it Take to Tip Over a Sailboat?

The primary reason sailboats tip over is that there is too much pressure on the sails for the ballast to counteract.

This pressure is the wind. The stronger the wind, the more pressure on the sails, and that means more force trying to push the sailboat over.

In almost every case, a boat tips over because the wind is too strong. Usually, this takes the form of a gust that overpowers the ballast. So a boat may be sailing along in heavy weather, seeming to do fine, but a sudden gust causes it to tip over.

However, sea conditions can also capsize a sailboat. This usually means large waves.

A wave can lift and roll a sailboat if it is big enough compared to the boat’s size. Even in the relative safety of a harbor, a breaking wave can cause a boat to capsize.

When sailboats founder at sea, it is often a combination of wind and waves that cause the boat to be lost.

How to Avoid Capsizing on a Sailboat

There are two main ways to avoid capsizing a boat: what you do beforehand, reef your sails, and what you do when caught in higher winds, which is to de-power them.

Reefing your Sails Before the Wind Picks Up:

The best way to prevent a capsize beforehand is to reef your sails.

Almost every mainsail has one or more sets of reinforced rings and grommets that parallel the boom. Reefing means you lower the main until you reach one of these sets or lines of rings and secure the sail to the boom at this point.

This reduces your mainsail area. Most of these reef points reduce the sail area by 20-25%.

Most offshore cruisers will have three sets of reefs, so by the time they take in the third reef, they have reduced their mainsail by about 60%.

You may want to reduce your headsail, as well. Most genoas do not have reef points; instead, you change the headsail to a smaller one, like a jib.

There are some jibs with reef points, but they are not commonly used.

Finally, if you are expecting very high winds, you might put up your storm sails. These are sails with a very reduced area.

They do not really generate any power; instead, they primarily provide directional stability.

De-Powering your Sails in Gusts:

When you are sailing and find your boat hit by a gust of strong wind, you need to de-power them, or you may find yourself capsizing.

This is pretty easy to do; you let out the main sheet, or both the main sheet and the genoa sheet. This will spill off all the wind and cause your boat to right itself.

You may find yourself doing this over and over, depending on how much sail area you have and the amount of breeze you find yourself in.

You may find yourself wishing that you had reefed your sails!

Do Older Sailboats Tip Over More Easily?

Older boats are, in general, in no more danger of capsizing than modern boats.

The basics of naval architecture have been understood for quite a while now. Sailboats designed in the 1950s reflect an understanding that ballast is required to keep a boat upright.

The ballast may be designed more efficiently in some modern designs, but most modern boats are no more stable than their counterparts from a half-century ago.

Some older wooden boats are less stable, though. This is usually compensated for by adding lead to their keels to increase the ballast.

However, many modern designs, particularly racing boats, are more prone to roll-outs and knock-downs. This is because, in the quest for speed, the sail area is maximized. These boats are lighter and have more force generated by their sail plans.

These designs require a higher degree of skill to operate than other sailboats. Even then, there are still capsizes.

Several high-profile capsizes in recent America’s Cup races, such as the envelope of speed, are continually pushed.

How Far Over can a Sailboat Heel?

Most keelboats perform better with a degree of the heel to them.

The exact angle depends on several factors in the boat’s design, but the majority will still perform well with an angle of the heel from 15-25 degrees, with most modern cruising monohulls at the 20-degree range.

Beyond this, and the efficiency of a boat’s design is decreased, and you start to drag or, in some cases, lose helm control; at that point, you will want to reduce sail area.

But in most boats, you can heel farther than this without getting into danger. Many boats in storms heel 30 degrees or more without having major problems.

When you start exceeding that, though, problems start. At a 45 degree angle of heel, some of your rudders are now out of the water, and you are losing your steering, which means you cannot navigate the waves.

This can drive your bow down further, bringing on a knockdown or cause you to round up, perhaps bringing on an involuntary tack.

Most keelboats can start righting themselves when a full, 90-degree knockdown occurs, but it is difficult to be in, particularly if water starts to enter the cabin.

Some keelboats can even right themselves beyond 90 degrees, depending on how they are ballasted, but all have a point of no return when a turtle is inevitable.

As a general rule, going beyond 30 degrees starts to impair both your sailing and your ability to respond to problems as they occur. Once your heel beyond 45 degrees, you are sailing dangerously.

Final Thoughts:

A keelboat in most conditions will not tip all the way over because its righting moment, driven by the keel, increases the more it heels.

It takes a lot of force to capsize a keelboat.

American Sailing Association – The Keel

Yachting Monthly – Breaking Waves

Quantum Sails – Maintaining Control

Sail World – Reefing and Righting Moments

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How Heel Affects Speed and Handling

• By Steve Killing And Doug Hunter
• Updated: September 27, 2017

The underwater hull shape of your boat when it heels affects how much sailing length is put to work, how easy it is to steer, and how much horsepower it can carry aloft as the breeze increases. Consequently, some hull shapes must be sailed differently to get the best performance. To explain this concept, let’s compare three of my designs that represent common, but very different, hull shapes: a beamy IOR 40 called Chariot , the long and narrow Canadian 12-Meter True North I with pronounced overhangs, and a 50-foot deep-draft sportboat design, the Daniells 50.

Effective waterline length

A general design rule is that the longer the waterline, the higher the hull’s speed potential. Perhaps the most important change when a boat is heeled is the length of the hull in the water, which is also known as effective waterline length or sailing length. Before the advent of rating rules based on computer performance prediction, designers working with point-measurement rules naturally strove to create hulls with more effective waterline length when heeled than what was measured for ratings purposes when the boat was upright.

The 12-Meter typified this design strategy. The simplest response to outwitting the waterline measurement process was a boat with generous overhangs at the bow and stern, which would stretch the sailing length when the boat heeled. The International Rule, created in 1906, sought to control excessive overhang by measuring a 12-Meter’s sailing length 7 inches above the load waterline (LWL). But there was just too much speed potential in overhangs for designers not to stretch the bow and stern above this point. When these long, narrow, and heavy designs heel to 25 degrees as shown, the deepest part of the hull remains along the centerline near amidships, but locations closer to the bow and stern shift their immersed volume to one side. When this happens, a significant gain in sailing length is achieved, especially at the stern, and a heeled modern 12 develops a particularly noticeable shift in underwater shape outboard of, and behind, the rudder.

It’s a profoundly different shape than that of the sportboat, which was designed without any point-measurement rule to satisfy. This hull is typical of modern sportboat designs, which are either handicapped through computer performance prediction such as the IMS or race in one-design fleets. A clean underwater shape essentially shifts to leeward as the boat heels. Some gain in waterline length results, but not in the dramatic way of a Meter-class boat. It’s not as important, the way it is with designs with pronounced overhangs, to get the sportboat to lay over just to increase hull speed.

Which brings us to Chariot and the issue of how heeling affects a boat’s performance beyond waterline length. Like the 12-Meter, the IOR design is based on a point measurement system. The International Offshore Rule, which was created in 1972, dominated offshore racing design in the 1970s and 1980s. While IOR competition has been superseded by the IMS and one-design offshore classes, the rule lives on in the hulls of many club-based racing keelboats built in an era when racer/cruiser designs routinely took their cue from SORC and Admiral’s Cup winners.

While Chariot isn’t the most extreme product of the IOR, it does show many typical IOR features: a somewhat triangular transom, deep forefoot, large skeg, and a fair amount of beam–emphasized by a designer because the rule assumed that fatter is slower than skinnier. As an IOR design heels, there’s a tendency to pick up sailing length. But because there’s so much volume gathered amidships, if it heels too far, it can begin to rise up, actually shortening the sailing length. As a result, this hull is far less tolerant of heel angle than less beamy designs.

Asymmetry, drag, and control problems

The narrower hull forms of the 12-Meter and the Daniells 50 also encounter far less form drag. This is the kind of parasitic drag an object experiences as it’s being pushed through a fluid, and the narrower a hull is relative to its length, the lower the form drag will be. Because of this, meter-boat hulls can drive comfortably to windward at high degrees of heel with minimum form drag, stretching their sailing length in the process. It’s an advantage enjoyed by other long, narrow hull forms such as Dragons, IODs, and Etchells.

This brings us to another potential consequence of heel. Look at the shapes of the waterline planes in the heeled drawings. (It’s important to consider all the waterline planes, and not just the lightest colored one describing the sailing length.) With Chariot , they’re asymmetric, with long curves on the leeward side and near-straight lines to windward. The heeled 12-Meter displays a less extreme amount of asymmetry, while there’s hardly any with the Daniells 50. Asymmetry encourages the boat to turn to windward, which can lead to control problems. Those problems are compounded by the way a boat settles fore and aft as it rolls to one side.

In most cases, heeled hulls have more volume (read buoyancy) at the stern than the bow, which means that, to different degrees, they want to pitch bow down as they lean over. Even a boat as long and heavy as a 12-Meter benefits from moving crew weight aft as it heels, to counteract the tendency. The effect is most pronounced in Chariot , where it also has the most serious consequences because of things going on at either end of the waterline. IOR boats typically have a deep forefoot with a sharp bow knuckle, and if the bow gets a bite on the passing water as the stern lifts when reaching, a broach is in the making. The control problem is exacerbated by the rudder’s position. As with the 12-Meter, the rudder post is positioned at the end of the design waterline, and as the hull heels, more so in the case of the IOR design, the top of the rudder is in danger of becoming airborne if the stern is allowed to rise. It’s now vulnerable to ventilation down its low-pressure side, reducing efficiency and encouraging a total stall, just when the bow knuckle is digging in, and the heeled hull’s asymmetry is encouraging a sharp turn to windward.

The control problem is less of an issue with the 12-Meter, which lacks the sharp bow knuckle and generally has enough displacement to keep the rudder buried. And it’s least likely to crop up with a modern sportboat, whose shape is noticeably less beamy than that of Chariot , with a wider transom, flatter sections aft, no skeg, and a shallow forefoot. The rudder is positioned well forward of the design waterline’s aft end, and even when the hull is heeled 25 degrees, it’s at minimum risk of inducing ventilation. All that beam aft creates more waterline length when heeled, but at the same time the underwater shape remains symmetrical, which helps maintain a comfortable amount of weather helm. As with the other designs, moving crew weight aft when heeled is a good idea.

Target speed and heel angle

In 20 knots of true wind, our three designs have distinctive optimum performance parameters. Chariot has a target speed of 6.7 knots, but as the beamiest design, to get there the heel angle must be limited to 26 degrees, and sails must be reefed to 80 percent and flattened. The Daniells 50 will make 7.9 knots with the same sail management strategy, but its hull form permits a heel angle of 29 degrees. The 12-Meter True North I , the narrowest and heaviest of the lot, requires no reefing, only flattening of the sails, and can carry 30 degrees of heel as 8.3 knots are achieved.

How much heel your boat can actually tolerate can be investigated by some on-water pacing against an identical or similar design. If you don’t have one already, install a heel gauge and pay attention to it as you draw your observations. An excellent resource to gather hard numbers on how your boat should be handled is US SAILING, which offers valuable performance packages on about 1,500 designs.

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Learn How to Sail a Small Sailboat

One of the most important things to remember, when learning to sail, is to always know where the wind is coming from in relation to the boat. Study the illustrations included to learn the terms for the primary points of sail, which is the position of the boat relative to wind direction.

The Points of Sail

Tom Lochhaas

The wind is blowing straight down from the top in this illustration. All the arrows pointing outward from the circle are directions a sailboat can sail. For example:

• A sailboat cannot sail directly into the wind but can sail about 45 degrees toward it; this is called being close hauled.
• When the boat is sailing across the wind, with the wind coming directly from either side (the “beam”), the boat is on a beam reach.
• When the boat is sailing at a broad angle off the wind, but not directly downwind, the boat is on a broad reach.
• When the boat is sailing directly downwind, it is said to be running.

Boat Positioning

Knowing how your boat is positioned relative to wind direction is crucial for how you set the sails and how you position your body weight. A good way to learn to pay attention to the wind is to tie short pieces of light yarn to the boat’s shrouds and keep an eye on which way they are blowing.

Wind Direction

When you are sailing, you will find that the motion of the boat affects wind direction, because the boat’s movement through the air creates its own wind. For example, the true wind may be blowing exactly across the boat (beam reach) when the boat is at rest. As it picks up speed, however, it makes its own wind by moving forward through the air.

This added wind from the front adds to the wind over the side to produce a combined wind at an angle more from ahead. Thus, the boat may actually be close hauled. When you first start sailing, you don’t have to think too much about the difference between true wind and apparent wind. All that matters is the resulting (apparent) wind over the boat and sails.

Getting Underway

Konstantin Trubavin/Getty Images

The easiest way to learn to sail a boat is from a mooring or a permanent anchor line in the water. The wind will blow the boat straight back, such that the bow faces into the wind. This is the one direction in which we can’t sail, so the boat has to be turned so that the wind is coming across the boat from either side.

Turn the Sailboat

To turn the sailboat after it is released from the mooring line, simply push the boom out to either side. The wind will now blow against the back of the sail, rather than past it on both sides, and the boat will rotate. This is called “backing the sail.” Now the boat can begin to sail as you pull in the mainsheet to tighten the mainsail.

Sailing Off a Dock or Beach

It is a little more difficult to learn to sail off a dock or beach. If the boat is being blown sideways against the dock, it can be almost impossible to get started. In this case, walk the boat to the end of the dock and turn it there to face outward into the wind. Then you can back the sail to get started.

The boat can’t move if the sails are loose and flapping in the wind. As soon as they are tightened up when the wind is coming from the side, the boat will begin to move forward.

Basics of Steering

As soon as the sails are drawing and the boat is beginning to move, be sure you are sitting on the side of the boat the wind is coming over, opposite of the sails as shown here. The wind against the sails will make the boat heel or lean over, and your weight is needed on the high side to keep the boat from capsizing.

Steer With the Tiller

As soon as the boat is moving, water is streaming past the rudder and the boat can be steered with the tiller. If you have ever used an outboard motor on a small boat to steer by pushing the motor's tiller arm, then you already know how to steer a small sailboat, since the tiller works the same way.

If you have never steered with a tiller before, it takes a bit to get used to, because it seems to work the opposite of what you might expect. To turn the boat to the left (port), you move the tiller to the right (starboard). To turn the boat to starboard, you move the tiller to port.

Steps to Move the Tiller

Look at how the rudder is hinged to the stern of the boat. Moving the tiller one direction rotates the rudder to the other side and water moving against the rudder pushes the stern of the boat the other direction. Use the illustration provided and think through these steps to better understand:

• Move the tiller toward the port (left) side, as this sailor is doing.
• This swings the rudder out a little on the starboard (right) side.
• The water against the rudder's starboard side causes a pushing motion that moves the stern the other direction, to port.
• Moving the stern to the port means the bow now points more to starboard. Steering by moving the stern is very different from steering a car, where the front wheels turn the front of the car. A boat steers by pushing the stern one way or the other like driving a car in reverse.
• Make very small movements of the tiller until you get a feel for steering.

General Sail Handling

The sheets pull in and let out the sails. Pulling the mainsheet brings the mainsail closer to the centerline of the boat. Pulling the jibsheet brings the jib closer to the centerline.

Position the Tiller

Once the boat starts moving forward, position the tiller so that the boat is not turning to either side. If the sails are loose and flapping, pull in the mainsheet just until the mainsail stops flapping and takes shape; you will feel the boat speed up. After this, pull in the jib sheet until the jib also stops flapping.

Navigate the Sails

There is one simple general principle for where to position your sails. The closer you sail toward the wind (close hauled), the more you pull in the sails. The farther you sail off the wind (broad reach), the more you let out the sails.

Note the photo on the left which shows the sails far out to the side as the boat sails downwind. The wind here is blowing from right to left. The photo at right shows the sails brought in close as the boat sails upwind. Notice the boat heels over more the closer it sails into the wind.

Trim the Mainsail

Adjusting the sails using the sheets is called trimming. You trim a sail to give it the best shape for the direction you are sailing relative to the wind.

Trimming the Mainsail

The leading, vertical edge of the sail is called the luff. When a sail is trimmed perfectly, it is in tight enough that the luff is not shaking or flapping, but not so tight that the wind is simply blowing against one side, making the boat heel over excessively. If the sail is brought in almost tight enough, it will look good at the back edge but the luff will be shaking or not tight.

Examine this photo carefully and you’ll see the billowing back of the mainsail luff, which is more noticeable in the blue area of the sail. It does not have a smooth airplane wing shape near the luff. The movement or shaking of the luff that happens when the sail is not quite in tight enough is called luffing. Luffing means the sail is not working as efficiently as it should, and the boat is going slower than it can.

Let Out the Mainsheet

The general principle for trimming the mainsail perfectly is to let out the mainsheet until the mainsail begins to luff and then pull it in just until it stops luffing.

If a sail is in too tight , it can look perfect. You can’t tell by its appearance if it is in too tight. The only way to know is to let it out until it starts luffing and then tighten it just until it stops luffing.

Trim the Jib

Let out the sheet until its luff starts shaking or flapping, then tighten the jibsheet until it stops. As with the mainsail, you can’t tell by the look of the jib whether it’s in too tight, so the only way to make sure it’s perfect is to let out until it luffs, then bring it back in a little.

How to Trim a Jib

Some sailboats, especially larger ones, have streamers on the luff of the jib that show the airflow on both sides of the jib’s front edge. When the sail is in trim, these streamers, called telltales, blow back straight on both sides of the sail. ​Here is a view of what jib telltales look like and how to trim a jib using them.

Note the shape of both sails in this photo as the boat moves on a beam reach. Remember that closer to the wind, the sails are in tight; ​the farther off the wind, the sails are let out more. A beam reach is about halfway between the two extremes. Both sails have the same curve.

The space between the jib and the mainsail, called the slot, has even spacing from the front to the back, helping the air flow smoothly between the sails. If the jib was in too tight, or the mainsail out too loose, the narrowing slot would cause air turbulence and slow down the boat.

Making a Turn

The most important thing about handling a sailboat is always knowing where the wind is. If you’re not paying attention and you turn the wrong way without preparing first, you could capsize the boat if it's windy.

Three General Turns

Consider that there are three general types of turns, depending on the boat’s direction relative to the wind:

• If the wind is coming from ahead of you on one side, such as port or left, and you turn the boat left into and across the wind so that now the wind is coming from ahead of you on the other wide, now the starboard or right, this is called tacking– turning across the wind by the turning into the wind.
• If you are sailing on a broad reach with the wind behind you on one side (for example, port or starboard) and you turn the boat right so that the stern crosses the wind, and now the wind is coming from behind you on the other side, now the starboard or right is called gybing (or jibing)– turning across the wind downwind.
• In the third type of turn, you do not cross the wind’s direction at all. For example, you may be close-hauled with the wind coming from ahead of you on one side (for example, port or left) and you turn right (“bear off” the wind) about 90 degrees. The wind is still on your port side except now you are on a broad reach with the wind behind you on the port side.

Positioning the Sails

In the first two of these turns, going across the wind, the sails have to cross to the other side of the boat and you have to switch sides yourself to keep the boat balanced. The easiest kind of turn happens when you keep the wind on the same side of the boat–the third type above. All you have to do is make your turn and then trim your sails to your new course. As you gain experience, you can adjust your sails at the same time you make the turn.

The closer you are to the wind (if you “head up” toward the wind), the more you pull in the sheets. The farther you are off the wind (if you “bear off”), the more you left out the sheets. When you prepare to turn either way, always keep one hand on your mainsheet. You may need to let it out quickly when you turn downwind, for example, to prevent being blown over sideways.

Using the Centerboard

The centerboard is a long, thin blade of fiberglass or metal that hangs down in the water near the center of the boat. It is usually hinged on one end and can be raised and lowered while sailing. The photo at left shows the top of the centerboard in the cockpit, with the board in the down position. In the photo to the right, you can see the board in the water beneath the boat.

Sailing Downwind

Because the wind blows sideways against the boat and sails, especially the closer the boat sails toward the wind, the boat is blown sideways even as it moves forward. When the centerboard is down, it is like a keel on a large sailboat and resists this sideways motion. When you are sailing downwind, however, the wind is behind more than to the side and there much less sideways push, so the centerboard is not needed. Many sailors, therefore, raise the centerboard when going downwind; with less drag in the water, the boat sails faster.

When you’re first learning, it doesn’t hurt to leave the centerboard down the whole time. It’s one less thing to be concerned about until you’ve mastered sail trim.

Slowing a Sailboat

For most sailors, the goal is to sail as fast as possible, whether racing or just having fun. You need to know how to slow the boat down sometimes, such as when approaching a dock or mooring or an obstruction.

Slowing a sailboat is fairly simple- you just do the opposite of what you do to sail fast with well-trimmed sails. The best way to slow down is to "spill wind" from your sails by letting out the sheets until the sails are luffing, or even further if needed until they start flapping. This means they're not working efficiently to drive the boat forward and the boat will quickly slow down. You need only to tighten up the sheets again to regain speed if you want or continue to let the sheets out until the sails flap uselessly and the boat coasts to a stop.

There is one exception to the "let out to slow" rule: when you're sailing down wind. When you are running, the sail billows forward, and it may not be possible to let the mainsail out far enough to spill wind because the boom hits the shrouds and won't go any father. The sail is still full and the boat moving right along. In this case, pull the mainsheet way in to slow the boat. The less sail is thus exposed to the wind, and the boat slows down.

Let Out the Sheets

Do not try to slow down on other points of sail by tightening the mainsheet. On a beam reach, for example, tightening the sheets may slow you but can also drastically increase the boat's heeling, and you could capsize. Instead, let out the sheets.

Stopping a Sailboat

Eventually, you need to stop the boat to dock or moor it after sailing. This may not be immediately intuitive as boats do not have brakes like cars.

Turn Toward the Wind

It is usually as simple as turning the boat directly into the wind to stop it, as shown in this photo. Depending on how hard the wind is blowing and how fast the boat is moving, this generally will stop the boat in one to three boat-lengths.

• The sails flutter loose and do not fill to move the boat. To stop to pick up a mooring line, or to stop beside a dock, practice turning the boat into the wind to see how quickly it stops in different conditions.
• Remember to loosen the sheets also, because the boat will eventually be blown one way or the other, and if the sails catch the wind, it will want to go sailing off again.

In Emergencies

You can stop or slow a sailboat simply by releasing the sheets. The sails will flap and make an uproar, but the boat will slow and stop– that is unless the wind gets behind the mainsail and pushes the boom against the shrouds, allowing the boat to keep going downwind. That’s why it’s always best to turn into the wind to stop the boat.

Stop on a Dock

Plan your approach carefully so that you can turn into the wind, regardless of where it is coming from, or can loosen the sheets to coast to a stop. If the wind is blowing directly against the dock, for example, you can sail alongside at a close angle and let the sheets out to slow the boat and coast up, as the wind blows you onto the dock.

Putting the Boat Away

After sailing, back on the mooring or dock, you will remove the sails and possibly the rudder and other gear.

• To protect the sails, they should be carefully folded before being stowed.
• Let them dry first if they are wet. If they have been doused in salt water, rinse them first and let them dry.

Fold a Sail

The best way to fold a sail depends on its size and the size of the sail bag if used. The fewer folds, the less strain on the sail cloth.

• Spread the sail flat and then fold it twice or more lengthwise, keeping the luff straight.
• When the width of the folded sail is small enough for stowing and handling, roll it up into a cylinder.
• Stow the sails and other gear in a dry place, to be ready for the next sailing day.

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Channel migrant dinghy in which five people died packed with people carrying weapons and fighting - survivor

Eighteen-year-old Heivin was among the survivors when five migrants died during an attempt to cross the English Channel in a small boat.

Europe correspondent @adamparsons

Friday 26 April 2024 09:33, UK

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The migrant dinghy in which five people died was chaotic, overloaded and packed with people carrying weapons and fighting, according to one of the passengers who was on board, speaking exclusively to Sky News.

Heivin, 18, confirmed the boat was stormed by a rival group of migrants, armed with sticks and knives, as it was preparing to set off.

She said: "People were fighting, people were getting stepped on, they were dying and being thrown off."

She said she fell into the water but was pulled out by another person on the boat. Two other passengers who fell into the water, including a young girl, drowned. Three other people died on the boat.

Heivin said she "really hated" the group of people who hijacked their boat, insisting they should take the blame for what happened.

"They caused a huge tragedy," she said.

"It was because of them that people died.

"If they hadn't come and started fighting, none of this would have happened."

Read more: Arrests after deaths of five people who tried to cross Channel Migrants explain why they won't be deterred by Rwanda bill

The tragedy happened in the early hours of Tuesday morning in the waters off the French coastal town of Wimereux.

The boat, which launched with 112 people on board, stopped on a sandbar only a few hundred metres from the shore.

By the time emergency services arrived, it was clear people had died, both on the boat and in the water.

Two men have been charged with immigration offences in connection with the investigation into the deaths of the five migrants.

"I fell into the water but a man helped me up," Heivin said.

"Everyone was climbing aboard and there were too many people - over 110 of us.

"I had tried to be at the front, but after I fell in the water I sat on the edge of the boat and didn't go towards the other end - that's where people were fighting.

"I thank God that I didn't get into the top part of the dinghy. I would have suffocated. I thank God for that every day."

She said her group, comprising between 50 and 60 people, had arrived at the beach in Wimereux after following the instructions of the people smugglers who had taken their money in exchange for arranging a passage to Britain.

Hidden away, they had waited for the smugglers to prepare the dinghy. She then saw police officers and was told simply to run towards the water.

At that point, the rival group emerged as well, clambering into the boat along with the people who had paid the smugglers.

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Heivin said she saw migrants from this group carrying sticks and knives, squaring up to both the police and the original passengers.

When the boat set off, exceptionally overladen, it meandered towards the Channel, but there was still fighting and it is clear that some people were being crushed.

"I was aware there was a fight," Heivin said.

"They were shouting that people were stuck underneath other people, that they couldn't get out, that some were falling under people's feet."

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Heivin has spent seven months travelling across Europe since leaving Iraq. She said she wanted to get to Britain because "it is a better country for me, definitely in terms of the language but also, in many other other ways, it is better than the rest of Europe".

She's made 30 attempts to cross the Channel, but has failed each time. Sometimes it has been the French police who have destroyed boats while other times the boat on which she was travelling broke down. One time, the boat failed only an hour from British waters.

She is undeterred by the trauma that she underwent, however, and she intends to try again to reach Britain as soon as possible. "Perhaps this weekend," she said.

Related Topics

• Migrant Crisis