yankee 26 sailboat

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Sailboat Guide

Yankee 26 is a 25 ′ 11 ″ / 7.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Sparkman & Stephens and built by Yankee Yachts Inc. starting in 1974.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
LOA: Length overall in feet
Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

S&S design #2065.1. Similar to SHE 27 (S&S #2065). After Yankee Yachts went out of business in 1975, additional boats were built by Heritage Boat Works (USA) until 1990. IOR 1/4 ton.

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First post here... so please take it easy on the new guy. I'm going this weekend to look at a Yankee 26 that is for sale. It has been partially refit, but still needs a bit of work (currently engineless, needs bottom paint, maybe some other odds and ends, has been on the hard for several years). This isn't a question about whether this is a good boat for me - I already believe it is given my needs (will mostly just be me and my better half daysailing and weekend cruising) and my geography (PNW). There's just very little information out there on other Y26s. I know Yankee Yachts had a good reputation, I've read the forum posts where Yankee 26s have been mentioned, and I have raced against a Yankee 30 that always seems to do quite well against its PHRF rating. I have not found any testimonials of current or prior Y26 owners. Is there anyone out there with specific experience / knowledge about these boats? Particularly, is there anything in particular I should be looking for when I go to see the boat? Thanks in advance.

Not particular to the Yankee 26 but know the yankees are respectably built boats. I would look for more information concerning the Yankee 24 and the 30s because the manufacture of the boats are probably similar to get an overall idea of things to look for when surveying a boat from this manufacturer. My one other suggestion in a boat of this class is compare a boat needing work and one in the best condition on the market. If the boat needing some TLC includes, engine, bottom paint, sails, and rigging and you can buy one fully upgraded for a few thousand more, spend the extra money on the better equipped boat.

I don't know much about the Y26, but am quite familiar with the Y30 and Y24. The Y26 was built during the same time frame as the Y30, so you want to check the deck core carefully. If it is built the same as the Y30, then they didn't seal the ends of the deck core - the one major flaw of an otherwise very well built boat. Often leads to soft spots on the deck, which are a big job to repair.

Thanks guys. Great advice about researching Y30s and Y24s to get a sense for general manufacturer issues from the era. My understanding is that the current owner has already recored parts of the deck and sealed the joints with the hull. Will verify that to be the case.

That's promising information. I look forward to pics of the boat. I think the Y26 is a fairly uncommon boat.

Interesting.. must be one of the very first 'forward wrap-around settee/climb over into the V berth' layouts produced. YANKEE 26 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com The S&S pedigree is a good one, though as a 70s IOR type she may have some bad habits downwind. But good sail plan decisions can get around that. The one thing that does give me pause is the engine/remote V drive arrangement. Wondering what engine access is like.. looks 'well squished aft'.... and with the pinched stern...

Looks like a nifty weekender. Enjoy! Sent from my Pixel C using Tapatalk

I went and looked at the Yankee 26 on Saturday. Overall, it was as promised. The current owner has spent years refitting the boat and the work he has done is beautiful. Completely rebuilt interior with cherry wood, deck re-cored, new teak toe rails, hand rails, companionway trim, all refinished stanchions and rails, new lights, topsides and deck painted. There is, however, still a not-insignificant amount of work remaining to be done. As noted, it needs an engine (as well as a new diesel tank, prop, and controls), water tank / holding tank, galley stove and sink, v berth mattress, compass, vhf / nav, and in the not too distant future a set of sails as I think the ones it has now are the originals. I can wrap my head around all of that, however expensive it may be. What I'm struggling with is the bottom of the hull. It has been partially stripped / sanded by the current owner, though more needs to be done before barrier coat and bottom paint could be applied. As I was inspecting the hull, I noticed a couple of things that gave me pause. First is that there was a thru hull for the head that the current owner removed and began the process of glassing over. He acknowledged that he had just started to patch the hole and that there is more to be done, but I noticed from inside the boat that the current patch job is translucent and clearly quite thin. I also noticed while walking around the boat a thin crack maybe 18 inches long running from the very bottom of the boat vertically, then extending half again as far horizontally. This appeared to be a section that he had begun sanding but that still had barrier coat on it. Any thoughts on this? Is patching an abandoned thru hull a big deal, and is it possible that crack is just in the barrier coat? Pictures attached for reference.

Attachments

Patching an old through hull is not a big deal. As for the crack, looks like it is on the keel? If so, these are likely bolt-on lead keels and that shouldn't be a worrisome nor difficult crack to repair.