length of sailboat mast

Average Sailboat Mast Height

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

August 30, 2022

‍ Sailboat masts are known to be quite tall, but how tall do they get? The answer varies on rig type, boat size, and design attributes.

Small sailboats, under 20 feet in length, rarely have masts taller than 20 ft or shorter than 8 ft. Sailboats between 20 and 30 feet have masts up to 30 feet tall, and large 40+ foot sailboats often have masts that exceed 50 feet in height.

In this article, we'll cover the average mast height of various sailboats based on length, and we'll also provide a typical height range. Additionally, we'll compare mast height by rig type. Finally, we'll cover the benefits and disadvantages of tall and short masts.

We sourced the information used in this article from sailboat design guides and the sailing community. Additionally, we analyzed several boats from each length category to determine average mast heights.

Table of contents

‍ Why are Mast Heights Different?

If you spend enough time around marinas, you'll undoubtedly notice the numerous masts that tower high above seemingly minuscule boats. Some are tall and thin, some are short and fat—and many are somewhere in between. So why do sailboat mast heights differ so much?

There are a lot of factors that contribute to mast height, not the least of which is boat size. Obviously, boats need a sail plan proportionate to their length, beam, and displacement in order to be efficient. The type of sail plan varies based on what the boat is used for.

Different rigs use different mast heights, even if the boat underneath is exactly the same. Let's assume we have two identical 30-foot boats. One has a tall mast and a triangular Bermuda rig, while another has a shorter mast with a four-sided rig.

The four-sided sail has a much greater area per foot of height than the triangular sail, so the mast doesn't need to be quite as high. Additionally, shorter masts can be thicker and stay within the same weight limits as a taller mast, so they can be thicker and stronger.

Average Mast Height by Sailboat Length

Now, we'll look at the average mast heights of sailboats by their overall length. We're not considering rig type beyond the fact that the majority of modern sailboats are Bermuda-rigged sloops—we'll get into that later. Here are some averages based on popular sailboats.

As you can see, the average mast height is highly dependent on the length of a sailboat. Most vessels have triangular rigs, which require a taller mast. It also seems as though mast height isn't usually far from the overall length of the boat, at least on tall single-masted vessels.

Why do Racing Sailboats Have Tall Masts?

Racing sailboats are known for their crazy mast heights and long, thin sails. There's a very simple reason for this, and it has to do with efficiency and drag. A taller and thinner sail is much more efficient for speed than a shorter and fatter sail. The same goes with the dimensions of the hull, as fast boats tend to be long and slender.

The science behind sail design is ancient and fascinating. In the 21st century, where the boat market values speed and agility, tall masts with thin triangular rigs are becoming increasingly popular. Short-masted vessels, once a key component of working offshore, are more durable but less common.

Average Mast Height of Multi-Masted Sailboats

Having multiple masts has distinct advantages, especially for cruising. Multi-masted sailboats are some of the best offshore cruisers ever built, and they are also remarkably durable. One of the main benefits of having multiple masts is that it adds a level of redundancy and increases your ability to finely control the vessel.

Multi-masted sailboats almost always have shorter and thicker masts when compared to similar single-masted vessels. Sailboats with four-sided mainsails, such as many classical schooners, are a particularly extreme example of this.

Gaff-rigged schooner masts are significantly shorter than triangular rig masts, sometimes more than 10 to 20% shorter. It's often the case that these vessels have a topmast that can be raised or lowered to add a triangular topsail, further increasing the area of the large four-sided sail plan.

What Sailboat Rigs Have Tall Masts?

Bermuda rigged sailboats (also known as Marconi rigged sailboats) are the most common tall-masted boats. Triangular rigs are tall because their sail area decreases as it moves up the sail, so they make up for it by adding height.

Fully-rigged ships also have very tall masts. These are the traditional sailing ships that are quite literally called 'tall ships' in the sailing community. They have multiple sails on each mast when fully deployed, and they usually have three or more masts and multiple headsails.

What Sailboat Rigs Have Short Masts?

The gaff rig is a common and classic sailboat rig that uses traditionally shorter masts. The gaff rig uses a square mainsail, which has more lateral area than a triangular mainsail. These vessels often deploy a topsail with or without a mast extension called a topmast.

The lateen rig is also famously simple and short-masted. It uses a triangular sail with spars that fly at an angle to the mast. It is an ancient sailing rig that was extremely common in the early days of civilization, and it served workboats across the world for centuries.

Are Shorter Masts Stronger?

Short masts can be stronger, but they aren't always. It depends on the design of the craft and is more dependent on rig type than the size of the mast itself. The strongest masts are found on gaff-rigged vessels. They are usually short and thick and traditionally made of wood.

The strength of the mast isn't so important when everything is working properly. It begins to matter in the event of a failure, like a broken stay.

A gaff-rigged vessel with a typical mast has a good chance of surviving a snapped stay as the mast can support itself. A Bermuda-rigged vessel, more likely than not, could lose its mast immediately after the standing rigging goes down.

What are Masts Made Of?

Masts are made of many different materials. Traditionally, wood was the mast material of choice. It was strong and lasted a very long time if maintained. Through the production sailboat era, when boatbuilders switched from wood to fiberglass for hulls, sailboat masts were mostly made of aluminum.

Today's high-tech racing sailboats have many more options to choose from. Composite materials, such as carbon fiber, are increasingly common due to their astounding strength-to-weight ratio. Alloy masts are also fairly common. Steel masts exist, but their use is usually confined to small sailboats and dinghies.

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Sailboat Mast: Everything You Need To Know

Anyone who loves sails and boating needs to know their sailing boat from the inside out. If you are new to the sport, then you are probably wondering about things like a sailboat mast and everything around it.

In this article, we have everything you need to know about a sailboat mast, like what it is, its different types, as well as the material it is made of.

All you have to do is keep reading below to find it all out!

What Is A Sailboat Mast?

A sailboat mast is a tall pole that is attached to the deck. It helps secure the sail’s length to the boat and upholds the sail’s structure.

A sailboat mast is the most defining characteristic of a sailboat, helping keep the sail in place. What’s amazing about it is that it can even be taller than the vessel’s length!

Although conventional sailboats use wood, the majority of the newer sailboat masts are constructed of aluminum. The kind of sailboat mast a vessel has depends on the kind of sail plan supported.

What Are The Parts Of A Sailboat Mast?

The sailing mast is essentially a pole that cannot operate effectively without certain critical components.

Moving from the deck to the rest of the sailboat, we can first see the mast boot, which prevents the water from draining down the mast and flooding the cabin.

The stays are the long cords hooked up on each side of the mast, and they hold the mast up off the ground under massive force.

A gooseneck pipe fitting joins the boom to the mast. The sail is raised and lowered using halyard lines that go to the mast’s highest point.

Types Of Sailboat Masts

Rigs with one mast.

Many people that are not aware of the modern sailboat design envision single-mast sailboats.

The reason why this type of sailboat is so widely known is that these masts are low-cost to construct and fairly simple to operate alone.

Sloops, cutters, and catboats are among the most popular rigs with only one mast.

Sloop Masts

Nowadays, sloop rig vessels are the most popular type of sailing boat. Sloops typically have only one mast positioned somewhere on the front third or the middle of the deck, even though some boat models might vary a bit.

A sloop mast is equipped with a big mainsail and a jib sail (see also ‘ Why Are Sails Made In A Triangular Shape? ‘). A Bermuda-rigged sloop has only one towering mast and a triangle-shaped sail. Other not-so-popular gaff-rigged sloops have a significantly smaller mast and bigger 4-point mainsails.

Catboat Masts

Catboats are distinctive New England boats that have a forward-mounted standard mast and a long boom. A catboat, unlike a sloop-rigged boat, is only equipped with one sail.

It is also typically mounted (more or less) right in front of the boat, and it is commonly short and relatively thick.

Catboats are frequently gaff-rigged. In a single-mast design, gaff-rigged sail designs (see also ‘ The Definition And History Of The Lateen (Triangular) Sail ‘) succeed in making the most out of short masts and are relatively simple to maneuver.

The mast of gaff-rigged catboats is shorter than that of a Bermuda-rigged boat of comparable size, but it is typically taller than that of comparable gaff-rigged crafts.

Cutter Mast

A cutter-rigged sailboat has only one towering mast and several headsails, which is why it can be mistaken for sloops when seen from afar.

However, because cutters use numerous headsails rather than one standard jib (see also ‘ Everything You Need To Know About Sailboat Jibs ‘), their masts are typically taller than those of comparable-sized sloops.

In several places, a gaff-rigged cutter is far more usual than a gaff-rigged sloop. Even at times when its sails are folded, a cutter can be distinguished from a sloop.

This is due to the fact that cutters frequently have a protracted bowsprit and two front stays; the forestay and the jib stay.

Rigs With Multiple Masts

Multi-mast sailboats (see also ‘ Small Sailboats: What Are They Called? ‘) are not as popular as single-mast sailboats. That is why the design and structure of a multi-mast boat usually make it classier and more navigable.

A multi-mast boat provides more than simply great looks. It also provides speed and efficient control for skilled seamen.

Most of these boats have two masts, which seem to be frequently smaller than the masts on comparable-sized single-mast crafts. Yawl, ketch, as well as schooner rigs, are among the most popular types.

Yawls are sturdy multi-mast boats whose length ranges from 20 to more than 50 ft. A yawl has a lengthy forward main mast and a small mizzen mast at the back of the vessel. This type is also frequently gaff-rigged and was previously used as a utility boat.

A yawl-rigged boat can also self-steer by using the mizzen mast and sail. The yawl can be distinguished from many other double-mast vessels by its short mizzen mast, which is frequently half the size of the main mast.

Furthermore, the mizzen mast is located toward the back of the rudder post.

Ketch Masts

Ketch masts can be mistaken for yawls with a quick look. However, ketch masts are equipped with two masts of comparable size and a significantly bigger mizzen mast. A ketch boat’s mizzen mast is located at the front of the rudder post.

Ketch-rigged vessels are frequently gaff-rigged, with topsails on each one of their masts. Triangle-shaped sailplanes on some ketch-rigged vessels prevent the necessity for a topsail.

Ketch masts, much like the yawl ones, have a headsail, a mainsail, and a mizzen sail that are similar in size to the mainsail. Finally, a ketch-rigged vessel can sail while handling more than one rear sail.

Schooner Masts

Schooners are some of the most beautiful multi-mast sailboats. They are clearly more similar to ketches than yawls. However, if you closely look at a schooner, you will see that it will feature a smaller foremast and a longer (or nearly equal-sized) mast behind it.

Schooner masts are large and heavy, but they are generally shorter than single-mast vessels of comparable size.

This is due to the fact that double-masted vessels share the sail plan over 2 masts and do not require the additional length to compensate for the reduced sail space.

Finally, they are typically gaff-rigged, with topsails and topmasts that expand the mast’s length.

Masts Of Tall Ships

Tall ships are those traditional large cruising ships that ruled the seas well before age of steam. Renowned ships with this massive and intricate rig setup include the U.S.S Constitution as well as the H.M.S. Victory.

Tall ships have 3 or more massive masts that are frequently constructed using big tree trunks. Tall ships with 5 or more masts are quite common too.

Tall ships typically are as long as 100 feet or more, since the size and sophistication of these square-rigged vessels render them only useful at scale.

Tall ships have main masts, foremasts, mizzen masts, and gaff-rigged jigger masts at the back of their mizzen masts.

Sailboat Mast Everything You Need To Know (1)

Mast Materials For Sailboats

The masts of sailboats (see also ‘ Two-Mast Sailboat Types ‘) are typically constructed of aluminum or other specific types of wood. Until the 1950s, almost all sailboat masts were constructed of wood.

That began changing around the time that fiberglass vessels rose to fame, with aluminum being now the most used mast material.

Aluminum Masts For Sailboats

Aluminum has become the most popular modern mast material. Aluminum masts are lighter in weight, hollow, and simple to produce. Such reasonably priced masts efficiently withstand seawater. These masts are also heavy for their size.

If there is one drawback to this type of mast that would be galvanic corrosion, which happens extremely quickly once seawater is in contact with aluminum and another metal, like steel and copper.

So, in types like the Bermuda-rigged sloop which are frequently made with aluminum, that is an issue.

Wooden Masts For Sailboats

The typical material for sailboat masts is wood, which is still employed for many specially designed boats nowadays.

Wood masts are big and bulky, yet very sturdy, and proper maintenance can guarantee their lengthy (over 100 years!) lifespan. They are also prevalent on gaff-rigged vessels because wood is best suited for short masts.

The Fir family provides the most popular mast wood. Although Douglas Fir is widely used, regional models (such as British, Columbian, and Yellow Fir) are also ideal.

Several sailboats, especially the tall ships, have masts made of pine and sometimes redwood. Other cedar species like the Port Orford or the Oregon cedar, can also be used for masts and spars.

Carbon Fiber Masts For Sailboats

Carbon fiber masts are a relatively new addition to the boatbuilding industry, and they have a few perks over the wood and aluminum ones.

First of all, carbon fiber is both strong and light, making it perfect for sailboats designed for races and which typically have tall masts. The best top-quality carbon fiber masts in the business are used by ships competing in America’s Cup races.

Maintenance Of Masts

It is critical to maintaining the sailboat masts and all of their associated hardware. Masts’ stays, lines, and halyards must be regularly checked, modified, and replaced on a regular basis. Masts made of wood must be lacquered and inspected for rot.

Masts made of aluminum do not typically require regular checks and maintenance, but any indications of a corrosive environment should be acted upon right away.

Build a clear maintenance schedule with your regional boat repairman or boating specialist. Keep in mind that preventative maintenance is always less expensive and simpler than repair work.

Choosing The Right Mast

For those who own a production boat, the options will be determined by the model and manufacturer.

The important factors to keep in mind for one-off boats without a designer sail plan are:

the masts step’s features
the length and displacement of the boat
the addition of backstays and running backstays
the quantity and placement of chainplates

If the mast is on a step on deck rather than on the structural beam, an image of the step may be useful to the mast maker.

For those who frequently take part in races, a carbon mast will save them from the extra weight and enhance their performance.

The Bottom Line

We hope that this article was helpful in learning more about a sailboat mast, the different types of mast you can see on vessels, as well as the materials they are made of, and their maintenance requirements.

Masts play a vital role in holding the boats in place, allowing people to keep on sailing to their dream destination, and they are also an eye-catching element of sailboats thanks to their vertical form and their length that often surpasses that of the sailboat itself.

Depending on the use of the boat, you will get a different type of mast, and the material it will be made of, its size, height, and weight, will guarantee the best sailing experience!

Everything You Need To Know About Sailboat Jibs

How Tall Are Sailboat Masts? 9 Examples

The mast height of a sailboat varies with every model.

So what determines the height of a mast?

Here’s How Tall Sailboat Masts Are:

As a general rule of thumb, the height of a boat’s mast will be somewhere between 1.25 to 1.35 times the boat’s length, for an average of about 1.3 times the length overall (LOA) of the boat. An aspect of 2.5 or lower will be a low-aspect rig; above that is considered a high-aspect ratio.

Table of Contents

Understanding a Sailboat’s Mast and Rig

Sailboats are driven through the water by the power generated by their sails.

This is done using sail area. Sail area is calculated using the height of the mast and the length of the boom.

The battens, long strips of wood inserts in the sail, allow more sail area as they extend beyond a straight line from the head of the mast to the back of the boom, thus allowing more cloth to be carried.

Keep in mind that the mast height does not equal the luff length of the main; there is a distance between the deck and the top of the boom.

Most mains do not go all the way to the top of the boom mast.

Wind Gradient:

Designers are also aware of the wind gradient, meaning that as the wind blows over the water, the surface causes drag.

So the breeze is stronger the higher you get off of the surface.

Taller masts allow you to reach these stronger winds.

Mast Height:

While mast height is a prime determinant in the area, it is also possible to make a mast too tall so that the boat is always in danger of taking a knockdown.

Note there are some performance boats designed with masts that are too tall for the craft’s weight, assuming that the weight of the crew will balance out the sail area.

One thing to bear in mind here is a rig’s aspect ratio: this is determined by dividing the designed sail’s luff length by the length of the foot. An aspect of 2.5 or lower will be a low-aspect rig; above that is considered a high-aspect ratio.

Higher aspect boats perform better upwind; lower aspect ratios generally are more powerful in other wind conditions and are usually easier to control.

What’s the Average Height of Sailboat Masts?

Sailboats can range from 6 feet to a hundred or more feet in length if you throw out the multi-masted sailing ships of old.

The mast height for every single one is different.

The height of a mast is usually carefully calculated by figuring the amount of power needed to move a certain hull shape and weight through the water. In many cases, in the 1960s through the 1980s, some designers went by feel.

A few boatbuilders would use the same mast across several of their models to save money in some cases.

As a general rule of thumb, the height of a boat’s mast will be somewhere between 1.25 to 1.35 times the boat’s length, for an average of about 1.3 times the length overall (LOA) of the boat.

So, if you were going to average the mast heights of all 20-foot boats, you’d have about a 26-foot high mast and about 39 feet on 30-foot boats.

Boats built solely for cruising, particularly in offshore winds, will have shorter masts, and performance boats will have taller masts.

How do you Determine the Height of a Sailboat Mast?

Several factors determine a sailboat’s mast height.

A performance boat will have a higher aspect ratio for its sails and thus have a taller mast. Cruising boats will generally have smaller masts for the same length of the boat.

A wider and heavier boat than another boat will need more power to move it, so it will usually have a taller mast. If this heavy boat is a low-aspect-ratio rig designed for offshore work, it will probably have a comparably shorter mast for ease of handling in higher winds.

Conversely, a racing boat will be lighter but still have a taller mast to generate maximum power upwind.

Boats built for maximum performance will have very tall masts for their length and be very difficult to handle for an inexperienced crew – and sometimes for a trained, experienced crew as well, as the difficulties some of America’s Cup boats encounter demonstrate.

The Melges 24 is a performance racer with a mast height of 31.4 feet for a head-to-head comparison. Her mainsail’s luff length is 28.92 feet, and the foot is 12.45 feet; she is a high-aspect-ratio boat.
The Islander 24 has a mast height of 28.82, so it is 2 and 1/2 feet shorter than our Melges. The main’s luff length is 25.75 feet, and the foot is 11.52, for a low aspect ratio and much smaller main.
The Islander 24 weighs 4,200 pounds, while the Melges 24 weighs less than 1,800 pounds.

How Tall is the Mast on a 40 ft Sailboat?

If a yawl or other rig with multiple masts, it will have shorter masts than a sloop.

If the boat is a fractional rig with a small foretriangle, like a modern high-aspect-ratio Hunter, the mast will be taller than another sloop of the same length:

The old Tartan 40, an all-around great Sparkman & Stevens design from 1984, has a 51-foot mast. This is a classic racer/cruiser.
The Nordic 40, designed around the same time, has a 52-foot mast.
The Canadian-built C&C Crusader, designed in 1968, has a mast of 48 feet, but their later Mark 2 designs have masts of 53 to 55 feet in height.

These are all sloops. Ketch and yawl rigs will have masts shorter than this, as the smaller mizzens provide power (and helm balance).

So, this shows us that mast heights will fall into a range for any given length of the boat, again depending on other factors such as its function (primarily racing or cruising).

What is the Optimal Height of a Sailboat Mast?

As specified earlier, the designed height of a mast for any given sailboat generally falls between 1.25 and 1.35 times its length overall (as opposed to its waterline length).

The optimal height will be based on the designer’s calculations of the sail area and aspect ratio needed for the boat’s intended purpose. Beyond the simple racing/cruising divide, there are inshore and offshore cruisers and casual and serious racers.

Inshore cruising boats will generally be designed for maximum safety, and the mast height may be less than 1.25 times the length. Offshore cruisers may also be divided into casual and serious distance cruisers; a boat designed for better offshore cruising performance will have a taller mast.

It is unusual to find many cruising boats with a higher ratio than 1.3, however.

Racing boats will usually have a 1.35 ratio, though it can be as high as 1.5 or even higher at the extremes of the sport.

The mast height for America’s Cup AC50, a 50-foot catamaran, is 77 feet.

How Tall is the Tallest Sailboat Mast?

Two boats are currently competing for the title of having the world’s tallest mast.

Mirabella 5, now named M5 and launched in 2003, is the largest single-masted yacht ever built at 294 feet long.

Her mast is over 290 feet high.

The boom is nearly 90 feet in length. The mainsail has an area of 16,000 square feet! Her reacher (a large, light-weight genoa with some characteristics of a spinnaker), at 20,600 square feet, is the world’s largest sail.

The White Pearl, the world’s largest sailing yacht at nearly 350 feet, was launched in 2014. She has three carbon-fiber wing-style masts that are a little more than 90 meters high.

This puts the masts for the two yachts within a few feet of each other, though White Pearl gets the nod.

References:

Masts – Wikipedia

Sloops – Sailboat Cruising

World’s Tallest Carbon Fiber Masts

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Navigating the High Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Masts

Navigating the High Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts are the unsung heroes of the sailing world, silently supporting the sails and ensuring a smooth journey across the open waters. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, understanding the intricacies of sailboat masts is essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of sailboat masts, discussing their types, maintenance, and everything in between.

Types of Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts come in various configurations, each with its advantages and drawbacks. The two primary types are keel-stepped and deck-stepped masts.

Keel-Stepped Masts

Keel-stepped masts are the most common type, extending through the deck and resting on the boat's keel. They provide excellent stability and are suitable for larger sailboats. However, they require careful maintenance to prevent water intrusion into the boat's cabin.

Deck-Stepped Masts

Deck-stepped masts rest on the deck of the boat, making them easier to install and remove. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are more forgiving in terms of maintenance. However, they may offer slightly less stability than keel-stepped masts.

Components of a Sailboat Mast

To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves.

The masthead is the topmost section of the mast, where the halyards are attached to raise and lower the sails. It also often houses instruments such as wind indicators and lights.

Spreaders and Shrouds

Spreaders are horizontal supports attached to the mast to help maintain the proper angle of the shrouds (cables or rods that provide lateral support to the mast). Properly adjusted spreaders and shrouds are crucial for mast stability and sail performance.

Mast Materials: Choosing the Right One

Sailboat masts are typically constructed from three primary materials: aluminum, wood, and carbon fiber. Each material has its unique characteristics and is suited to different sailing preferences.

Aluminum Masts

Aluminum masts are lightweight, durable, and relatively easy to maintain. They are commonly used in modern sailboats due to their cost-effectiveness and longevity.

Wooden Masts

Wooden masts, while classic and beautiful, require more maintenance than other materials. They are best suited for traditional or vintage sailboats, where aesthetics outweigh convenience.

Carbon Fiber Masts

Carbon fiber masts are the pinnacle of mast technology. They are incredibly lightweight and strong, enhancing a sailboat's performance. However, they come at a premium price.

Mast Maintenance

Proper mast maintenance is essential for safety and longevity. Regular cleaning, inspection, and addressing minor issues promptly can prevent costly repairs down the line.

Cleaning and Inspection

Regularly clean your mast to remove salt, dirt, and grime. Inspect it for signs of corrosion, wear, or damage, paying close attention to the masthead, spreaders, and shrouds.

Common Repairs and Their Costs

Common mast repairs include fixing corroded areas, replacing damaged spreaders, or repairing shrouds. The cost of repairs can vary widely, depending on the extent of the damage and the materials used.

Extending the Lifespan of Your Mast

Taking steps to prevent damage is essential. Avoid over-tightening halyards, protect your mast from UV radiation, and keep an eye on corrosion-prone areas.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing , sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Caucasian Male working up the mast of a sailing yacht, with rope and bosun's chair on a sunny day with blue sky

Stepping and Unstepping a Mast

Stepping and unstepping a mast is a crucial skill for any sailboat owner. This process involves removing or installing the mast on your boat. Here's a step-by-step guide for safe mast handling.

Step-by-Step Guide for Safe Mast Handling

Gather the necessary tools and equipment.
Disconnect all electrical and rigging connections.
Use a crane or mast-stepping system to safely lower or raise the mast.
Secure the mast in its proper place.
Reconnect all electrical and rigging connections.

When and Why to Unstep a Mast

You may need to unstep your mast for various reasons, such as transporting your sailboat or performing extensive maintenance. It's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and ensure a safe unstepping process.

Sailboat Mast Boot: Protecting Your Mast

A mast boot is a simple yet effective way to protect your mast from water intrusion and damage caused by the elements. Here's what you need to know.

The Purpose of a Mast Boot

A mast boot is a flexible material that wraps around the mast at the deck level. It prevents water from entering the cabin through the mast opening, keeping your boat dry and comfortable.

Installing and Maintaining a Mast Boot

Installing a mast boot is a straightforward DIY task. Regularly inspect and replace it if you notice any signs of wear or damage.

Replacing a Sailboat Mast

Despite your best efforts in maintenance, there may come a time when you need to replace your sailboat mast. Here's what you should consider.

Signs That Your Mast Needs Replacement

Common signs include severe corrosion, structural damage, or fatigue cracks. If your mast is beyond repair, it's essential to invest in a replacement promptly.

The Cost of Mast Replacement

The cost of mast replacement can vary significantly depending on the type of mast, materials, and additional rigging needed. It's advisable to obtain multiple quotes from reputable marine professionals.

Yacht Masts: Sailing in Style

For those looking to take their sailing experience to the next level, upgrading to a yacht mast can be a game-changer.

Differences Between Sailboat and Yacht Masts

Yacht masts are typically taller and offer enhanced sail performance. They are often equipped with advanced rigging systems and technology for a more luxurious sailing experience.

Upgrading to a Yacht Mast

Consult with a marine professional to determine if upgrading to a yacht mast is feasible for your sailboat. It can be a significant investment but can transform your sailing adventures.

Sailboat Mast Steps: Climbing to the Top

Mast steps are handy additions to your mast, allowing easier access to perform maintenance or enjoy panoramic views. Here's how to use them safely.

Using Mast Steps Safely

Always use proper safety equipment when climbing mast steps. Make sure they are securely attached to the mast and regularly inspect them for wear or damage.

The Advantages of Mast Steps

Mast steps provide convenience and accessibility, making sailboat maintenance tasks more manageable. They also offer an elevated vantage point for breathtaking views while at anchor.

Mast Maintenance Tips for Beginners

If you're new to sailboat ownership, these mast maintenance tips will help you get started on the right foot.

Essential Care for First-Time Sailboat Owners

Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
Seek advice from experienced sailors.
Invest in quality cleaning and maintenance products.

Preventing Common Mistakes

Avoid common pitfalls, such as neglecting inspections or using harsh cleaning agents that can damage your mast's finish.

Sailing with a Mast in Top Condition

A well-maintained mast contributes to a safer and more enjoyable sailing experience. It enhances your boat's performance and ensures you can rely on it in various weather conditions.

How a Well-Maintained Mast Improves Performance

A properly maintained mast helps maintain sail shape, reducing drag and improving speed. It also ensures that your rigging remains strong and secure.

Safety Considerations

Never compromise on safety. Regularly inspect your mast, rigging, and all associated components to prevent accidents while at sea.

Sailboat masts are the backbone of any sailing adventure, and understanding their intricacies is crucial for a successful voyage. From choosing the right mast material to proper maintenance and upgrading options, this guide has covered it all. By following these guidelines, you can sail the high seas with confidence, knowing that your mast is in top condition.

So what are you waiting for ? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations .

Sailboat Mast Height

You see this – what do you do? What should you have done?

Last week, Editor and Chief of Sail Magazine, Peter Nielsen, and I chartered a 38 foot catamaran from the local Moorings Base in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, on a bareboat yacht charter. Peter was writing a story about sailing in the south pacific which will come out later this year (keep and eye out for it). We snapped some great shots, did some great sailing, caught lots of snapper and ate like kings in some of the most beautiful bays. The Kiwi weather really turned it on for us and the New Zealand Tourism board will be happy as Peter had a great time and surely will be writing up the Bay of Islands as a must see sail area.

So we sailed up into the Kerikeri inlet to the north of Moturoa island and past the stunning Black Rocks – where in the old days whales were so abundant here that whalers used to harpoon the whales from these rocks. The wind was 20 knots out of the north so it made for a nice beam reach into the inlet. On the way back we decided to do a run through the Kent Passage. About 100 meters back I noticed power wires crossing from the mainland to Moturoa Island.

Kerikeri Inlet – Bay of Islands New Zealand

“Hmmmm”, I said to Peter “what do you think about those”.

“Hmmmm” replied Peter.

We both looked at the GPS which noted nothing on the electronic chart.

A quick consult of the paper chart showed the following image with a very hard to see thin line.

Not much information and no height datum.

“Hmmmm” we both said

We could now see a sign on the shore warning of the DANGER. But we could not read the specifics.

“Hmmmm” one more time. 30 meters to go!!!!!

With out any more hesitation and with prudence taking over, we brought the boat up into wind, turned on the engines and motored the boat away from the lines.

We got out the binoculars and were able to see the sign marking which indicated 23 above MHHW.

From the manual in the chart table, the sailboat mast height above the water line on a Leopard 38 is 19.1 m. That made it safe to proceed.

MHHW is the mean higher high water. This is the average height of the high tide during spring tides. Bridges and power wires are marked as such to indicate safe passage at these times. This is opposed to chart datum depths which are marked as MLLW.

So the lessons learned here:

If you’re unsure of situations like this bail out. We did the right thing. Not that we were under any time constraint, but there is no time constraint that is worth really messing up like what could have happened.
Know your sailboat mast height. When pilots get rated for an aircraft they spend hours and hours studying the characteristics of an aircraft. Yet when we go charter a boat – at best the Yacht Charter Base will spend maybe an hour with you.

Off the top of my head, here’s a list of boat characteristic specifications that you should know about when chartering a Sailboat on a Bareboat Yacht Charter sailing holiday .

Sailboat mast height
Offset of the depth meter (some charter companies add in a 5 ft offset below the keel, some do it at the keel, some do it at the water line and some don’t even know)
Beam Width (for unfamiliar marinas)
Number of water tanks
Max cruising revs for engines
Boat speed at max cruising revs
Length of anchor rode
Reefing wind speeds

Typically, you’re not going to be too concerned about fuel capacity with a week to 10 day long yacht charter, but it’s prudent to watch fuel usage.

There is a lot of other things to learn about a charter boat like locations of safety gear etc. But this is more about the boat dimensional characteristics.

I’ll end the post with a bit of humor.

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Sail area calculations

Mainsail Area = P x E / 2 Headsail Area = (Luff x LP) / 2 (LP = shortest distance between clew and Luff) Genoa Area 150% = ( 1.5 x J x I ) / 2 Genoa Area 135% = ( 1.35 x J x I ) / 2 Fore-triangle 100% = ( I x J ) / 2 Spinnaker Area = 1.8 x J x I

Sailboat Mast Height Calculator

Please enter valid boat length and waterline height.

How tall should a mast be on a sailboat?

The height of the mast on a sailboat depends on the boat’s size, design, and purpose. Generally, a sailboat’s mast height is determined to provide enough clearance for sails and rigging, while also ensuring stability and performance. Larger sailboats typically have taller masts to support larger sail areas.

How do you find the height of the mast?

The height of the mast can be measured by physically climbing up the mast and using a measuring tape or a halyard with markings. Alternatively, you can refer to the sailboat’s specifications or user manual, which usually includes the mast height information.

How tall is the mast on a 50-foot sailboat?

The mast height on a 50-foot sailboat can vary depending on the specific model and design. As a rough estimate, the mast height of a 50-foot sailboat might be around 60 to 70 feet (18 to 21 meters) above the waterline.

How do you measure a sailboat mast?

To measure a sailboat mast, you can use a measuring tape or a halyard with markings. Climb up the mast and lower the halyard to the base, marking the point where it touches the deck. Then, hoist the halyard to its maximum height, and measure the distance between the base and the highest point to find the mast height.

How tall were masts on old sailing ships?

Masts on old sailing ships varied in height depending on the type and size of the vessel. For example, the mainmast on large ships like the famous clipper ships of the 19th century could reach over 100 feet (30 meters) above the waterline.

What is the best wave height for sailing?

The best wave height for sailing depends on the sailboat’s size, design, and the experience level of the sailors. Generally, most sailors prefer waves between 2 to 6 feet (0.6 to 1.8 meters) for enjoyable and manageable sailing. However, this can vary, and some sailors may seek larger waves for more challenging experiences.

How tall is a 12-meter mast?

A 12-meter mast is approximately 39 feet in height.

What is the formula for calculating height?

The formula for calculating height (h) depends on the context and available information. In general, for a right-angled triangle, you can use the Pythagorean theorem: h² = a² + b², where ‘h’ is the height and ‘a’ and ‘b’ are the other two sides of the triangle.

What is collapsed mast height?

The collapsed mast height refers to the height of the sailboat’s mast when it is lowered or retracted. This measurement is essential for determining whether the sailboat can pass under certain bridges or obstacles with restricted vertical clearance.

Can one person sail a 50-foot sailboat?

Yes, it is possible for one person to sail a 50-foot sailboat, especially if the boat is equipped with modern sailing systems like roller furling, electric winches, and autopilot. However, handling a sailboat of this size alone can be challenging and may require significant experience and skill.

Can you solo sail a 50-ft sailboat?

Yes, experienced sailors can solo sail a 50-ft sailboat. However, it’s important to have proper training, knowledge, and equipment to handle the boat safely and effectively.

How tall is the mast on an Oceanis 50?

The mast height on a Beneteau Oceanis 50 sailboat is approximately 63 feet (19 meters) above the waterline.

What sailing yacht has the tallest mast?

The tallest mast on a sailing yacht can vary, as some custom-built yachts may have exceptionally tall masts. As of my knowledge cutoff in September 2021, the yacht “A” (also known as “Sailing Yacht A”), owned by Russian billionaire Andrey Melnichenko, was known for having one of the tallest masts in the world, reaching around 328 feet (100 meters) above the waterline.

What is the world’s tallest mast sailboat?

As of my last update in September 2021, “Sailing Yacht A” (Yacht “A”), owned by Andrey Melnichenko, was known for having one of the world’s tallest masts, reaching approximately 328 feet (100 meters) above the waterline.

How tall are masts on a Brigantine?

A Brigantine is a type of two-masted sailing vessel. The height of the masts on a Brigantine can vary, but on average, the mainmast could be around 80 to 120 feet (24 to 37 meters), and the foremast slightly shorter.

How tight should sailboat stays be?

The tension of sailboat stays (shrouds and stays) is essential for maintaining the integrity and stability of the mast. The tension should be adjusted according to the sailboat manufacturer’s recommendations or specifications. Typically, stays should be tightened enough to prevent excessive mast movement and deformation but not overly tight to risk damaging the mast or rigging.

What size sailboat to live on?

The size of the sailboat one chooses to live on depends on personal preferences, budget, and lifestyle. Some people comfortably live aboard smaller sailboats, around 30 to 40 feet, while others may prefer larger boats with more living space.

What do you call a sailboat with two masts the same height?

A sailboat with two masts of the same height is commonly referred to as a “ketch.”

What is a 3-masted sailboat called?

A sailboat with three masts is commonly called a “three-masted ship” or a “ship-rigged vessel.”

How tall are USS Constitution masts?

USS Constitution, a famous American frigate launched in 1797, has three masts with heights of approximately 204 feet (62 meters) for the mainmast, 198 feet (60 meters) for the foremast, and 152 feet (46 meters) for the mizzenmast.

What is a ship with 5 masts called?

A ship with five masts is known as a “five-masted ship.”

What is an unsafe height of a wave?

The height of a wave can be considered unsafe depending on various factors, including the size and design of the vessel, weather conditions, and the experience of the crew. Generally, waves higher than 10 feet (3 meters) can be hazardous for smaller boats and inexperienced sailors.

Are 3-foot seas rough?

Three-foot seas are considered moderate waves. They might be challenging for very small boats, but for most sailboats and larger vessels, they are generally manageable and not considered rough.

What size wave can capsize a boat?

The wave size that can capsize a boat depends on the boat’s stability, design, and handling. Small boats with low stability can capsize with waves as low as 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 1 meter), while larger and more stable vessels can handle much larger waves without capsizing.

What is a tall mast?

A tall mast refers to a mast that extends to a significant height above the waterline on a sailboat. The height can vary depending on the boat’s size and design.

How tall can a mast be without guy wires?

The height of a mast without guy wires (also known as stays or shrouds) is limited by its structural strength and stability. In general, for a single unsupported mast, the practical height without guy wires is around 60 to 70 feet (18 to 21 meters) for a well-designed sailboat.

How high can a service mast be?

The height of a service mast, which provides electrical connections to a building, can vary depending on local building codes and regulations. In some places, service masts may be allowed up to a height of 12 to 20 feet (3.6 to 6 meters) above the ground level.

What is the most accurate height calculator?

There are various accurate height calculators available online and in mobile applications that use advanced algorithms and laser-based technology for measuring height.

What is the formula for calculating maximum height?

The formula for calculating maximum height varies depending on the context. In general, for projectile motion, the maximum height (H) reached by an object can be calculated using the formula: H = (V^2 * sin^2θ) / (2 * g), where V is the initial velocity, θ is the launch angle, and g is the acceleration due to gravity.

What is the formula for the greatest height reached?

The formula for calculating the greatest height reached is the same as the formula for calculating maximum height in projectile motion: H = (V^2 * sin^2θ) / (2 * g).

How high is a 3-stage mast?

The height of a three-stage mast can vary depending on its application. In a forklift truck context, a three-stage mast can extend to a height of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters).

How high is a triple-stage mast?

A triple-stage mast, similar to a three-stage mast, typically extends to a height of around 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters) in a forklift truck context.

What is a low mast?

A low mast typically refers to a mast that is shorter in height compared to the standard or typical mast used on a specific type of vessel.

What is the largest sailboat one person can handle?

The largest sailboat one person can handle depends on the sailor’s skill, experience, and the boat’s design and equipment. Experienced sailors have been known to solo sail boats in the 30 to 40-foot range and even larger, but handling a boat of this size alone can be very challenging.

What size sailboat to cross the Atlantic?

Sailboats that can comfortably and safely cross the Atlantic Ocean can range from 30 to 50 feet or more, depending on the boat’s seaworthiness, equipment, and the sailor’s experience.

Is a 30-foot sailboat too big for a beginner?

A 30-foot sailboat can be manageable for some beginners, especially those who have prior sailing experience or who undergo proper training. However, for complete beginners, a smaller boat in the 20 to 25-foot range might be more suitable to learn the basics of sailing.

Can you sleep while sailing alone?

Yes, it is possible to sleep while sailing alone, especially on long passages. However, sailors must take safety precautions, use proper navigation aids, and set alarms to ensure the boat’s safety while resting.

What size sailboat is best for 2 people?

For two people, a sailboat in the 30 to 40-foot range is commonly considered suitable. It provides enough space and amenities for comfortable cruising.

What is the minimum size sailboat for the ocean?

The minimum size sailboat for ocean sailing depends on the sailor’s experience, the boat’s seaworthiness, and the intended route. However, most experts recommend a sailboat in the 30 to 35-foot range as a minimum for safe ocean voyages.

How tall is the Hallberg Rassy 50 mast?

The mast height on a Hallberg Rassy 50 sailboat is approximately 71 feet (21.6 meters) above the waterline.

How tall is the mast on a Volvo Ocean Race?

The mast height on boats used in the Volvo Ocean Race, now known as The Ocean Race, can vary depending on the specific boat design and class. As of my last update in September 2021, the mast height was approximately 100 feet (30 meters) or more for the boats in this race.

How tall is the Beneteau First 40 mast?

The mast height on a Beneteau First 40 sailboat is approximately 60 feet (18.3 meters) above the waterline.

Who owns the largest single-mast sailboat in the world?

As of my knowledge cutoff in September 2021, the ownership of the largest single-mast sailboat in the world might have changed or could be a subject of debate, as yacht ownership can be private and change hands. One of the contenders for this title was the yacht “Sailing Yacht A” (Yacht “A”), owned by Andrey Melnichenko.

How tall are the masts on Bezos’ yacht?

As of my last update in September 2021, there was no information available about Jeff Bezos’ yacht having exceptionally tall masts.

Is Jeff Bezos’ yacht a sailing yacht?

As of my last update in September 2021, there was no information available about Jeff Bezos owning a sailing yacht. Jeff Bezos is known for his interest in space exploration and technology, and any updates beyond September 2021 would require checking current news sources.

How tall is the mast on a 40-ft sailboat?

The mast height on a 40-foot sailboat can vary depending on the specific model and design. As a rough estimate, the mast height of a 40-foot sailboat might be around 50 to 60 feet (15 to 18 meters) above the waterline.

What is the largest sailboat without crew?

The largest sailboat without crew would typically be a single-handed or solo sailing yacht, designed and equipped for one person to handle all sailing tasks.

What is the largest sail on a sailboat called?

The largest sail on a sailboat is usually the mainsail, which is attached to the main mast. On larger sailing vessels, additional sails like the jib, genoa, spinnaker, or headsails can also be significant in size.

As mentioned earlier, the height of masts on old sailing ships varied depending on the type and size of the vessel. Mainmasts on large ships like the famous clipper ships of the 19th century could reach over 100 feet (30 meters) above the waterline.

How tall is the Cutty Sark mast?

The Cutty Sark, a historic clipper ship, has a mainmast height of approximately 152 feet (46 meters) above the waterline.

Can you sail a 40-foot sailboat alone?

Yes, a skilled sailor can sail a 40-foot sailboat alone. However, solo sailing on a boat of this size requires experience, training, and proper safety measures.

Can a 40-foot sailboat tip over?

A 40-foot sailboat is designed with stability in mind and is less likely to capsize in normal sailing conditions. However, extreme weather conditions or improper handling can increase the risk of tipping or capsizing any sailboat.

How often should you haul out a sailboat?

The frequency of hauling out a sailboat depends on factors such as the boat’s hull material, usage, and the environment it operates in. In general, sailboats with fiberglass hulls may be hauled out for inspection, maintenance, and bottom painting every 1 to 3 years. However, this can vary based on individual circumstances.

What is the best size sailboat to sail around the world?

The best size sailboat to sail around the world depends on the sailor’s experience, budget, and personal preferences. Sailboats in the 35 to 50-foot range are commonly chosen for long-distance cruising, as they strike a balance between comfort, seaworthiness, and ease of handling.

How many miles can a sailboat go in a day?

The number of miles a sailboat can cover in a day depends on factors such as wind conditions, currents, boat design, and sailing skill. On average, a sailboat can cover 100 to 150 miles in a day of continuous sailing, although some boats might achieve higher or lower daily distances.

What size boat is best for the ocean?

Boats in the 30 to 50-foot range are commonly considered suitable for ocean cruising, as they offer sufficient space, seaworthiness, and handling capabilities.

What is a sailboat with 4 masts called?

A sailboat with four masts is called a “four-masted ship” or a “quadriga.”

What is a small 2-person sailboat called?

A small sailboat designed for two people is often referred to as a “dinghy,” “daysailer,” or a “two-person sailboat.”

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Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)

When you first get into sailing, there are a lot of sailboat parts to learn. Scouting for a good guide to all the parts, I couldn't find any, so I wrote one myself.

Below, I'll go over each different sailboat part. And I mean each and every one of them. I'll walk you through them one by one, and explain each part's function. I've also made sure to add good illustrations and clear diagrams.

This article is a great reference for beginners and experienced sailors alike. It's a great starting point, but also a great reference manual. Let's kick off with a quick general overview of the different sailboat parts.

General Overview

The different segments

You can divide up a sailboat in four general segments. These segments are arbitrary (I made them up) but it will help us to understand the parts more quickly. Some are super straightforward and some have a bit more ninja names.

Something like that. You can see the different segments highlighted in this diagram below:

Diagram of the four main parts categories of a sailboat

The hull is what most people would consider 'the boat'. It's the part that provides buoyancy and carries everything else: sails, masts, rigging, and so on. Without the hull, there would be no boat. The hull can be divided into different parts: deck, keel, cabin, waterline, bilge, bow, stern, rudder, and many more.

I'll show you those specific parts later on. First, let's move on to the mast.

Sailboats Explained

The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat.

I think this segment speaks mostly for itself. Most modern sailboats you see will have two sails up, but they can carry a variety of other specialty sails. And there are all kinds of sail plans out there, which determine the amount and shape of sails that are used.

The Rigging

This is probably the most complex category of all of them.

Rigging is the means with which the sails are attached to the mast. The rigging consists of all kinds of lines, cables, spars, and hardware. It's the segment with the most different parts.

The most important parts

If you learn anything from this article, here are the most important parts of any sailboat. You will find all of these parts in some shape or form on almost any sailboat.

Diagram of Parts of a sailboat - General overview

Okay, we now have a good starting point and a good basic understanding of the different sailboat parts. It's time for the good stuff. We're going to dive into each segment in detail.

Below, I'll go over them one by one, pointing out its different parts on a diagram, listing them with a brief explanation, and showing you examples as well.

After reading this article, you'll recognize every single sailboat part and know them by name. And if you forget one, you're free to look it up in this guide.

The stern is the back part of the hull. It's simply the nautical word for 'back'. The shape of the stern partially determines the stability and speed of the boat. With motorboats, the stern lies deep inside the water, and the hull is flatter aft. Aft also means back. This allows it to plane, increasing the hull speed. For sailboats, stability is much more important, so the hull is rounded throughout, increasing its buoyancy and hydrodynamic properties.

The transom is the backplate of the boat's hull. It's the most aft (rear) part of the boat.

Port is the left side of a sailboat.

Starboard is the right side of a sailboat

The bilges are the part where the bottom and the sides of the hull meet. On sailboats, these are typically very round, which helps with hydrodynamics. On powerboats, they tend to have an angle.

The waterline is the point where the boat's hull meets the water. Generally, boat owners paint the waterline and use antifouling paint below it, to protect it from marine growth.

The deck is the top part of the boat's hull. In a way, it's the cap of the boat, and it holds the deck hardware and rigging.

Displacement hulls are very round and smooth, which makes them very efficient and comfortable. But it also makes them very easy to capsize: think of a canoe, for example.

The keel is a large fin that offsets the tendency to capsize by providing counterbalance. Typically, the keel carries ballast in the tip, creating a counterweight to the wind's force on the sails.

The rudder is the horizontal plate at the back of the boat that is used to steer by setting a course and maintaining it. It is connected to the helm or tiller.

Tiller or Helm

The helm is simply the nautical term for the wheel.
The tiller is simply the nautical term for the steering stick.

The tiller or helm is attached to the rudder and is used to steer the boat. Most smaller sailboats (below 30') have a tiller, most larger sailboats use a helm. Large ocean-going vessels tend to have two helms.

The cockpit is the recessed part in the deck where the helmsman sits or stands. It tends to have some benches. It houses the outside navigation and systems interfaces, like the compass, chartplotter, and so on. It also houses the mainsheet traveler and winches for the jib. Most boats are set up so that the entire vessel can be operated from the cockpit (hence the name). More on those different parts later.

Most larger boats have some sort of roofed part, which is called the cabin. The cabin is used as a shelter, and on cruising sailboats you'll find the galley for cooking, a bed, bath room, and so on.

The mast is the pole on a sailboat that holds the sails. Sailboats can have one or multiple masts, depending on the mast configuration. Most sailboats have only one or two masts. Three masts or more is less common.

The boom is the horizontal pole on the mast, that holds the mainsail in place.

The sails seem simple, but actually consist of many moving parts. The parts I list below work for most modern sailboats - I mean 90% of them. However, there are all sorts of specialty sails that are not included here, to keep things concise.

The mainsail is the largest sail on the largest mast. Most sailboats use a sloop rigging (just one mast with one bermuda mainsail). In that case, the main is easy to recognize. With other rig types, it gets more difficult, since there can be multiple tall masts and large sails.

If you want to take a look at the different sail plans and rig types that are out there, I suggest reading my previous guide on how to recognize any sailboat here (opens in new tab).

Sail sides:

Leech - Leech is the name for the back side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
Luff - Luff is the name for the front side of the sail, running from the top to the bottom.
Foot - Foot is the name for the lower side of the sail, where it meets the boom.

Sail corners:

Clew - The clew is the lower aft (back) corner of the mainsail, where the leech is connected to the foot. The clew is attached to the boom.
Tack - The tack is the lower front corner of the mainsail
Head - The head is the top corner of the mainsail

Battens are horizontal sail reinforcers that flatten and stiffen the sail.

Telltales are small strings that show you whether your sail trim is correct. You'll find telltales on both your jib and mainsail.

The jib is the standard sized headsail on a Bermuda Sloop rig (which is the sail plan most modern sailboats use).

As I mentioned: there are all kinds, types, and shapes of sails. For an overview of the most common sail types, check out my Guide on Sail Types here (with photos).

The rigging is what is used to attach your sails and mast to your boat. Rigging, in other words, mostly consists of all kinds of lines. Lines are just another word for ropes. Come to think of it, sailors really find all kinds of ways to complicate the word rope ...

Two types of rigging

There are two types of rigging: running and standing rigging. The difference between the two is very simple.

The running rigging is the rigging on a sailboat that's used to operate the sails. For example, the halyard, which is used to lower and heave the mainsail.
The standing rigging is the rigging that is used to support the mast and sail plan.

Standing Rigging

Diagram of the Standing Riggin Parts of a sailboat

Here are the different parts that belong to the standing rigging:

Forestay or Headstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the bow of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
Backstay - Line or cable that supports the mast and is attached to the stern of the boat. This is often a steel cable.
Sidestay or Shroud - Line or cable that supports the mast from the sides of the boat. Most sailboats use at least two sidestays (one on each side).
Spreader - The sidestays are spaced to steer clear from the mast using spreaders.

Running Rigging: different words for rope

Ropes play a big part in sailing, and especially in control over the sails. In sailboat jargon, we call ropes 'lines'. But there are some lines with a specific function that have a different name. I think this makes it easier to communicate with your crew: you don't have to define which line you mean. Instead, you simply shout 'mainsheet!'. Yeah, that works.

Running rigging consists of the lines, sheets, and hardware that are used to control, raise, lower, shape and manipulate the sails on a sailboat. Rigging varies for different rig types, but since most sailboats are use a sloop rig, nearly all sailboats use the following running rigging:

Diagram of the Running Rigging Parts of a sailboat

Halyards -'Halyard' is simply the nautical name for lines or ropes that are used to raise and lower the mainsail. The halyard is attached to the top of the mainsail sheet, or the gaffer, which is a top spar that attaches to the mainsail. You'll find halyards on both the mainsail and jib.
Sheets - 'Sheet' is simply the nautical term for lines or ropes that are used to set the angle of the sail.
Mainsheet - The line, or sheet, that is used to set the angle of the mainsail. The mainsheet is attached to the Mainsheet traveler. More on that under hardware.
Jib Sheet - The jib mostly comes with two sheets: one on each side of the mast. This prevents you from having to loosen your sheet, throwing it around the other side of the mast, and tightening it. The jib sheets are often controlled using winches (more on that under hardware).
Cleats are small on-deck hooks that can be used to tie down sheets and lines after trimming them.
Reefing lines - Lines that run through the mainsail, used to put a reef in the main.
The Boom Topping Lift is a line that is attached to the aft (back) end of the boom and runs to the top of the mast. It supports the boom whenever you take down the mainsail.
The Boom Vang is a line that places downward tension on the boom.

There are some more tensioning lines, but I'll leave them for now. I could probably do an entire guide on the different sheets on a sailboat. Who knows, perhaps I'll write it.

This is a new segment, that I didn't mention before. It's a bit of an odd duck, so I threw all sorts of stuff into this category. But they are just as important as all the other parts. Your hardware consists of cleats, winches, traveler and so on. If you don't know what all of this means, no worries: neither did I. Below, you'll find a complete overview of the different parts.

Deck Hardware

Just a brief mention of the different deck hardware parts:

Pulpits are fenced platforms on the sailboat's stern and bow, which is why they are called the bow pulpit and stern pulpit here. They typically have a solid steel framing for safety.
Stanchons are the standing poles supporting the lifeline , which combined for a sort of fencing around the sailboat's deck. On most sailboats, steel and steel cables are used for the stanchons and lifelines.

Mainsheet Traveler

The mainsheet traveler is a rail in the cockpit that is used to control the mainsheet. It helps to lock the mainsheet in place, fixing the mainsails angle to the wind.

If you're interested in learning more about how to use the mainsheet traveler, Matej has written a great list of tips for using your mainsheet traveler the right way . It's a good starting point for beginners.

Winches are mechanical or electronic spools that are used to easily trim lines and sheets. Most sailboats use winches to control the jib sheets. Modern large sailing yachts use electronic winches for nearly all lines. This makes it incredibly easy to trim your lines.

You'll find the compass typically in the cockpit. It's the most old-skool navigation tool out there, but I'm convinced it's also one of the most reliable. In any way, it definitely is the most solid backup navigator you can get for the money.

Want to learn how to use a compass quickly and reliably? It's easy. Just read my step-by-step beginner guide on How To Use a Compass (opens in new tab .

Chartplotter

Most sailboats nowadays use, besides a compass and a map, a chartplotter. Chartplotters are GPS devices that show a map and a course. It's very similar to your normal car navigation.

Outboard motor

Most sailboats have some sort of motor to help out when there's just the slightest breeze. These engines aren't very big or powerful, and most sailboats up to 32' use an outboard motor. You'll find these at the back of the boat.

Most sailboats carry 1 - 3 anchors: one bow anchor (the main one) and two stern anchors. The last two are optional and are mostly used by bluewater cruisers.

I hope this was helpful, and that you've gained a good understanding of the different parts involved in sailing. I wanted to write a good walk-through instead of overwhelming you with lists and lists of nautical terms. I hope I've succeeded. If so, I appreciate any comments and tips below.

I've tried to be as comprehensive as possible, without getting into the real nitty gritty. That would make for a gigantic article. However, if you feel I've left something out that really should be in here, please let me know in the comments below, so I can update the article.

I own a small 20 foot yacht called a Red witch made locally back in the 70s here in Western Australia i found your article great and enjoyed reading it i know it will be a great help for me in my future leaning to sail regards John.

David Gardner

İ think this is a good explanation of the difference between a ”rope” and a ”line”:

Rope is unemployed cordage. In other words, when it is in a coil and has not been assigned a job, it is just a rope.

On the other hand, when you prepare a rope for a specific task, it becomes employed and is a line. The line is labeled by the job it performs; for example, anchor line, dock line, fender line, etc.

Hey Mr. Buckles

I am taking on new crew to race with me on my Flying Scot (19ft dingy). I find your Sailboat Parts Explained to be clear and concise. I believe it will help my new crew learn the language that we use on the boat quickly without being overwhelmed.

PS: my grandparents were from Friesland and emigrated to America.

Thank you Shawn for the well written, clear and easy to digest introductory article. Just after reading this first article I feel excited and ready to set sails and go!! LOL!! Cheers! Daniel.

steve Balog

well done, chap

Great intro. However, the overview diagram misidentifies the cockpit location. The cockpit is located aft of the helm. Your diagram points to a location to the fore of the helm.

William Thompson-Ambrose

An excellent introduction to the basic anatomy and function of the sailboat. Anyone who wants to start sailing should consider the above article before stepping aboard! Thank-you

James Huskisson

Thanks for you efforts mate. We’ve all got to start somewhere. Thanks for sharing. Hoping to my first yacht. 25ft Holland. Would love to cross the Bass Strait one day to Tasmania. 👌 Cheers mate

Alan Alexander Percy

thankyou ijust aquired my first sailboat at 66yrs of age its down at pelican point a beautifull place in virginia usa my sailboat is a redwing 30 if you are ever in the area i wouldnt mind your guidance and superior knowledge of how to sail but iam sure your fantastic article will help my sailboat is wings 30 ft

Thanks for quick refresher course. Having sailed in California for 20+ years I now live in Spain where I have to take a spanish exam for a sailboat license. Problem is, it’s only in spanish. So a lot to learn for an old guy like me.

Very comprehensive, thank you

Your article really brought all the pieces together for me today. I have been adventuring my first sailing voyage for 2 months from the Carolinas and am now in Eleuthera waiting on weather to make the Exumas!!! Great job and thanks

Helen Ballard

I’ve at last found something of an adventure to have in sailing, so I’m starting at the basics, I have done a little sailing but need more despite being over 60 life in the old dog etc, thanks for your information 😊

Barbara Scott

I don’t have a sailboat, neither do l plan to literally take to the waters. But for mental exercise, l have decided to take to sailing in my Bermuda sloop, learning what it takes to become a good sailor and run a tight ship, even if it’s just imaginary. Thank you for helping me on my journey to countless adventures and misadventures, just to keep it out of the doldrums! (I’m a 69 year old African American female who have rediscovered why l enjoyed reading The Adventures of Robert Louis Stevenson as well as his captivating description of sea, wind, sailboat,and sailor).

Great article and very good information source for a beginner like me. But I didn’t find out what I had hoped to, which is, what are all those noisy bits of kit on top of the mast? I know the one with the arrow is a weather vane, but the rest? Many thanks, Jay.

Louis Cohen

The main halyard is attached to the head of the mainsail, not the to the mainsheet. In the USA, we say gaff, not gaffer. The gaff often has its own halyard separate from the main halyard.

Other than that it’s a nice article with good diagrams.

A Girl Who Has an Open Sail Dream

Wow! That was a lot of great detail! Thank you, this is going to help me a lot on my project!

Hi, good info, do u know a book that explains all the systems on a candc 27,

Emma Delaney

As a hobbyist, I was hesitant to invest in expensive CAD software, but CADHOBBY IntelliCAD has proven to be a cost-effective alternative that delivers the same quality and performance.

https://www.cadhobby.com/

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

Cruising yacht with mainsail, headsail, and gennaker

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What Is A Sailboat Mast?

A sailboat mast is one of the most defining features of a sailboat (along with the sails of course!) You can immediately tell that a boat is a sailing boat when you spot the tall mast sticking out of the hull.

But why do sailboats need a mast? Having lived on a sailboat for years now I’ve never really questioned the need for a mast. It’s such an integral part of the boat that I just sort of forget it’s there!

When our friends recently lost their mast due to a rigging failure it got me thinking – why do sailboats need a mast and what function (aside from holding up the sails) do they actually play. It turns out, quite a lot!

We’re going to dive into the fascinating world of sailboat masts, exploring different rigs, mast materials, and the different functions that masts play. It’s important stuff if you want to go sailing, and a lot of it I should have known sooner!

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Why do sailboats need a mast, parts of the mast, what materials are masts made from, single mast rigs, sailboats with two masts, sailboats with three masts, how to look after your mast.

A sailboat mast is a vertical, upright structure that supports the sails of a sailboat. It is a crucial component of the boat’s rigging system and plays a key role in harnessing the power of the wind to propel the vessel. Typically located in the center of the boat, the mast extends upward from the deck or hull.

The height of the mast varies depending on the size and type of the sailboat, directly impacting the sail area and overall performance of the boat.

Together with the boom (a horizontal spar attached to the bottom of the mast), the mast allows sailors to control the shape and orientation of the sails, optimizing their efficiency in different wind conditions.

The design and configuration of the mast can vary depending on the type of sailboat, such as a sloop, cutter, ketch, or schooner.

Sailboats require a mast primarily to support the sails.

It holds the sails in an elevated position, allowing them to catch the wind effectively. Without a mast, the sails would lack the means to be raised and positioned to harness the power of the wind.

There are a few other important jobs that the mast plays:

Control and Manipulation of Sails: The mast, along with the boom (a horizontal spar attached to the mast’s lower end), enables sailors to control and manipulate the sails.

By adjusting the angle and tension of the sails through the mast, sailors can optimize their performance according to wind conditions and desired boat speed.

This control allows for maneuverability and efficient use of wind power.

Structural Integrity: The mast contributes to the overall structural integrity of the sailboat. It helps distribute the loads and forces exerted by the sails, rigging, and masthead components throughout the boat’s hull and keel.

The mast’s design and construction ensure stability and strength, allowing the boat to withstand the forces generated by the wind.

Attachment Points for Rigging: The mast provides attachment points for various rigging components, including halyards (lines used to raise and lower the sails), stays (wires or rods that support the mast in different directions), and shrouds (wires that provide lateral support to the mast).

These rigging elements are essential for properly tensioning the sails and maintaining the mast’s stability.

Height and Visibility: The mast’s height contributes to the sailboat’s visibility, allowing other vessels to spot it more easily, particularly when sailing in congested waters. The mast’s presence also serves as a visual reference for determining the boat’s position, orientation, and distance from potential hazards.

While the mast’s primary purpose is to support the sails and enable control over their position, it also plays a significant role in maintaining the structural integrity of the sailboat and enhancing its visibility on the water.

Basically, the mast is pretty darn important!

Along with a million other confusing sailboat terms , the mast has lots of different parts too. A sailboat mast consists of several distinct parts, each serving a specific function. Here are the different parts commonly found on a sailboat mast:

Masthead: The masthead is the topmost section of the mast. It often includes attachment points for various components such as halyards (lines used to raise and lower the sails), the forestay (the wire or rod that supports the front of the mast), and other rigging elements. The masthead may also house instruments like wind vanes or antennas.
Spreaders: Spreaders are horizontal bars attached to the mast, typically positioned at specific intervals along its length. They help support the rigging wires and prevent excessive sideways bending of the mast. The position and angle of the spreaders contribute to the proper alignment and tension of the rigging.
Shrouds: Shrouds are the wires or cables that provide lateral support to the mast. They connect the mast to the sides of the boat, helping to stabilize the mast and distribute the loads generated by the sails. Shrouds are typically tensioned using turnbuckles or other adjustable fittings.
Backstay: The backstay is a cable or wire that provides support to the rear of the mast. It helps counterbalance the forces exerted by the forestay and the mainsail, preventing the mast from excessively bending forward. Adjustable backstays allow for tuning the mast’s rigidity based on wind conditions and sail trim.
Halyard Sheaves: Halyard sheaves are small wheels or pulleys located at the masthead or lower down the mast. They guide halyards, which are lines used to raise and lower the sails. Halyard sheaves minimize friction, allowing smooth and efficient hoisting or lowering of the sails.
Gooseneck: The gooseneck is a fitting that connects the boom to the mast. It allows the boom to pivot or rotate horizontally, enabling control over the angle and position of the mainsail. The gooseneck may include a pin or other locking mechanism to secure the boom to the mast.
Mast Step: The mast step is the base or fitting where the mast rests and is secured to the deck or hull of the sailboat. It provides stability and distributes the loads from the mast to the boat’s structure.

These are some of the primary parts found on a sailboat mast. The specific configuration and additional components may vary depending on the sailboat’s design, rigging system, and intended use.

a sailboat in front of a beautiful sunset

I was surprised to learn that sailboat masts are commonly made from several different materials, each offering its own advantages in terms of strength, weight, and flexibility.

The choice of material depends on various factors, including the type and size of the sailboat, desired performance characteristics, and budget.

Here are some of the materials used for sailboat mast construction:

Aluminum is a popular choice for sailboat masts due to its favorable combination of strength, lightweight, and corrosion resistance. Aluminum masts are relatively easy to manufacture, making them cost-effective. They offer good stiffness, enabling efficient power transfer from the sails to the boat.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber has gained significant popularity in sailboat mast construction, especially in high-performance and racing sailboats. You’ll see black carbon fibre masts on fancy sailboats!

Carbon fiber masts are exceptionally lightweight, providing excellent stiffness-to-weight ratios. This allows for enhanced responsiveness, improved performance, and reduced heeling (tilting) of the boat.

Carbon fiber masts can be precisely engineered to optimize flex patterns and provide targeted strength where needed.

Traditional sailboats, particularly those with a classic or vintage design, may have masts made from wood. Wood offers an aesthetically pleasing and traditional look.

Wooden masts can be constructed using solid wood or laminated techniques, which involve layering thin strips of wood for added strength and stability. Wood masts require regular maintenance, including varnishing and sealing to protect against moisture.

In some cases, steel may be used for sailboat masts, especially in larger vessels or those designed for specific purposes, such as offshore cruising or heavy-duty applications.

Steel masts offer robustness and durability, but they are heavier compared to other materials. They require adequate corrosion protection to prevent rusting.

Composite Materials

Sailboat masts can also be constructed using composite materials, such as fiberglass or fiberglass-reinforced plastics. These materials provide a balance between cost, weight, and strength. Fiberglass masts can be an option for recreational sailboats or those on a tighter budget.

It’s worth noting that advancements in materials and manufacturing techniques continually evolve, introducing new possibilities for sailboat mast construction.

The choice of mast material should consider factors such as boat type, intended use, performance requirements, and personal preferences, balanced with considerations of cost and maintenance.

Different Types Of Masts

There are several different types of masts used in sailboat designs, each with its own characteristics and purposes.

We’ve included how the masts are fixed on the boat. This one is an important one when buying a sailboat as you might have a preference over how your mast is attached to the hull or deck.

We’ve also included different rigs, as some boats have just a single mast and other sailboats will have two or more masts. Again, you might have a preference as to which rig set up you prefer so it’s worth knowing the pros and cons of each.

Keel-stepped Mast

A keel-stepped mast is one that extends down through the deck and is secured to the boat’s keel or structural framework. Keel-stepped masts offer stability and strength, as they transfer the loads directly to the boat’s foundation.

They are commonly found in larger sailboats and offshore cruising vessels. We loved knowing our deck was secured to one of the strongest parts of the boat.

It does come with some problems though, like the fact it can leak and start raining in the boat! A decent mast boot will stop this.

Deck-stepped Mast

A deck-stepped mast rests on a step or fitting on the deck, rather than extending down through it. Deck-stepped masts are typically used in smaller sailboats and are more straightforward to install, maintain, and unstep.

They are often lighter and less expensive than keel-stepped masts but may sacrifice some stability and rigidity.

Fractional Rig

A fractional rig features a mast where the forestay is attached below the masthead, typically at a point less than halfway up the mast’s height. This design allows for a larger headsail and a smaller mainsail.

Fractional rigs are popular on modern cruising and racing sailboats as they offer versatility, easy sail control, and improved performance in various wind conditions.

Masthead Rig

In a masthead rig, the forestay attaches at the top of the masthead. This design is commonly found in traditional sailboats. Masthead rigs typically feature larger headsails and smaller mainsails. They are known for their simplicity, easy balance, and suitability for cruising and downwind sailing.

There are various different rig set ups that just have one single mast. We’ll look at a few of the most popular types, but be aware that there are quite a few variations out there these days! It can get a little complicated!

The sloop rig is one of the most popular and widely used single mast rigs. It consists of a single mast with a mainsail and a headsail. The headsail, typically a jib or genoa, is attached to the forestay at the bow of the boat, while the mainsail is attached to the mast and boom.

Sloops offer simplicity, versatility, and ease of handling, making them suitable for a wide range of sailboats, from small day-sailers to larger cruising vessels.

A cutter rig utilizes two jibs : a smaller headsail attached to the forestay and a larger headsail called a staysail attached to an inner stay or a removable stay.

The mainsail is usually smaller in a cutter rig. This rig provides versatility and options for different sail combinations, making it suitable for offshore cruising and handling various wind conditions.

We absolutely loved our cutter rig as it gave so much flexibility, especially in heavy weather. A downside is that tacking is a little harder, as you have to pull the genoa past the stay sail.

Sailboats with two masts tend to be seen on older boats, but they are still popular and quite common, especially with long-distance sailors looking for versatility.

The yawl rig features two masts, with a shorter mizzen mast positioned aft of the main mast and rudder stock. The mizzen mast is usually shorter than the main mast.

Yawls offer versatility, improved balance, and increased maneuverability, making them suitable for offshore cruising and long-distance sailing.

A ketch rig has two masts: a taller main mast located near the boat’s center and a shorter mizzen mast positioned aft of the main mast but forward of the rudder stock. The mizzen mast is typically shorter than the main mast.

Ketch rigs provide additional sail area and options for sail combinations, offering good balance and flexibility for cruising and long-distance sailing. A lot of long-term cruisers love ketch rigs, though they tend to be found on older boats.

The downside is that you’ll have two masts with accompanying rigging to maintain, which isn’t necessarily a small job.

Sailboats with three masts or more are rare. They tend to be seen only on very large, expensive sailing yachts due to the additional expense of maintaining three masts, rigging and additional sails.

They aren’t great for single-handed crews but they do look very impressive and can power bigger vessels.

Schooner Rig

A schooner rig features two or more masts, with the aft mast (known as the mizzen mast) being taller than the forward mast(s).

Schooners are known for their multiple headsails and often have a gaff-rigged or square-rigged configuration on one or both masts. Schooner rigs offer impressive sail area, versatility, and classic aesthetics.

Schooner rigs are much rarer than the rigs mentioned above so it’s unlikely you’ll find one on a cruising vessel.

These are just a few examples of the different types of masts used in sailboat designs. Each rig type has its own advantages and considerations in terms of sail control, performance, balance, and intended use.

The choice of mast and rig depends on factors such as boat size, purpose, sailing conditions, and personal preferences.

lots of sailboats in a boatyard with stormy skies

We didn’t know the first thing about looking after our mast when we first moved aboard and we made it our mission to find out. When you’re sailing frequently then the last thing you want is to experience a mast coming down mid-passage!

Taking proper care of your sailboat mast is important to ensure its longevity and optimal performance. Here are some tips on how to look after your mast:

Regular Inspections: Conduct regular visual inspections of your mast to check for any signs of damage, wear, or corrosion. Look for cracks, dents, loose fittings, or any other issues that may compromise the mast’s integrity.
Cleaning: Keep your mast clean by regularly washing it with fresh water. Remove dirt, salt, and other contaminants that can accelerate corrosion. Use a mild detergent or boat-specific cleaner, and rinse thoroughly.
Corrosion Prevention: Protect your mast from corrosion by applying a suitable corrosion inhibitor or protective coating. Pay particular attention to areas where fittings, rigging, or other components come into contact with the mast.
Lubrication: Lubricate moving parts such as sheaves, shackles, and slides with a marine-grade lubricant. This helps prevent friction and ensures smooth operation. Be cautious not to over-lubricate, as excess lubricant can attract dirt and debris.
Rigging Maintenance: Inspect your rigging regularly for signs of wear, such as broken strands, fraying, or excessive stretching. Replace any worn or damaged rigging promptly to avoid potential mast damage.
UV Protection: The sun’s UV rays can degrade and weaken the mast over time. Protect your mast from UV damage by applying a UV-resistant coating or using mast covers when the boat is not in use.
Storage Considerations: If you need to store your boat for an extended period, consider removing the mast and storing it horizontally or in a mast-up position, depending on the boat design. Store the mast in a clean, dry, and well-ventilated area to prevent moisture buildup and potential damage.
Professional Inspections: Periodically have your mast inspected by a professional rigger or boatyard to assess its condition and identify any potential issues that may require attention. They can provide expert advice on maintenance and repair.

Remember, if you are unsure about any maintenance or repair tasks, it’s always recommended to consult with a professional rigger or boatyard to ensure proper care and safety of your mast.

We learned so much from having our rigging inspected, so we highly recommend you do this if you’re at all unsure.

Conclusion: What Is A Sailboat Mast?

In conclusion, a sailboat mast is a crucial component that plays a vital role in the performance, control, and integrity of a sailboat. It’s a good idea to learn about sailboats before you head out on a sail – unlike us!

The mast serves as a vertical structure that supports the sails, allowing them to capture the power of the wind effectively. The mast enables sailors to control and manipulate the position of the sails, optimizing performance based on wind conditions.

Additionally, the mast contributes to the overall structural integrity of the boat, distributing loads and forces throughout the hull and keel. Various rigging components, such as halyards, shrouds, and spreaders, are attached to the mast, providing support and enabling precise sail control.

By understanding the importance of the mast and properly caring for it through regular inspections, cleaning, corrosion prevention, lubrication, and rigging maintenance, sailors can ensure their mast’s longevity and optimal performance.

A well-maintained sailboat mast contributes to a safe, enjoyable, and successful sailing experience.

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Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Perfect Mast

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 17, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer sailboat masts:

Sailboat masts are vertical structures that support the sails on a sailboat. Typically made of aluminum, wood, or carbon fiber, masts vary in length and design depending on the type and size of the boat. They play a crucial role in providing stability and transferring wind energy to propel the sailboat forward.

Understanding Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide

When it comes to sailing, one of the most critical components of a sailboat is its mast. Acting as the backbone and support for the sails, the mast plays a crucial role in harnessing wind power to propel the vessel forward. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the intricacies of sailboat masts, exploring their various types, materials, and functions.

Types of Sailboat Masts: Sailboat masts come in different designs, each catering to specific sailing needs. The most common types include:

1. Deck-Stepped Mast: This type of mast is attached to the deck and supported by compression or tension on its base. It offers ease of access for maintenance but may restrict height due to deck limitations.

2. Keel-Stepped Mast: As the name suggests, this mast rests on the keel, providing increased stability and maximizing height potential. However, accessing it can be more challenging for routine inspections or repairs.

3. Fractional Rig: With a fractional rig setup, the forestay attachment point is positioned below the top of the mast’s highest point. This design allows for a wider range of sail adjustments while enhancing performance in varying wind conditions.

4. Masthead Rig: In contrast to a fractional rig, a masthead rig positions its forestay at the top of the mast’s highest point. This configuration provides greater cruising stability while sacrificing some versatility in sail adjustments.

Materials Used in Sailboat Masts: Sailboat masts are predominantly crafted from three main materials:

1. Aluminum Alloy: Highly popular due to its durability and affordability, aluminum alloy masts offer excellent strength-to-weight ratio while ensuring resistance against corrosion brought by saltwater exposure.

2. Carbon Fiber: Known for its superior strength properties combined with lightweight qualities, carbon fiber has become synonymous with high-performance racing sailboats. It offers exceptional stiffness and flexibility, allowing sailors to optimize speed and response.

3. Wood: While less common in modern sailboats, wood masts were extensively used in the past. Today, they tend to be preferred for traditional or classic boats seeking a touch of nostalgia. Wooden masts require regular maintenance to prevent rot and warping.

Functions of Sailboat Masts: Sailboat masts serve several key functions; these include:

1. Supporting the Sails: The primary purpose of a mast is to provide a stable platform for the attachment and hoisting of sails. It must withstand varying wind pressures and distribute forces evenly throughout the structure.

2. Channeling Wind: By placing the sails on the mast, it acts as an optimal conduit for capturing wind energy and converting it into forward propulsion. The design of the mast plays a role in determining how efficiently this process occurs.

3. Controlling Rig Tension: Masts often have additional components like shrouds, stays, or running rigging that allow sailors to adjust tension in their sailboat’s rigging system. Correctly tensioned rigging helps maintain sail shape, control stability, and overall boat performance.

4. Providing Height for Obstacle Clearance: Whether sailing under bridges or navigating tight spaces near shorelines, the height provided by a well-designed mast allows sailboats to clear obstacles safely without damaging the vessel or jeopardizing crew safety.

Understanding these aspects of sailboat masts can empower sailors with knowledge critical both for enhancing performance and ensuring safe navigation on open waters. So next time you set foot on a sailboat, take a moment to appreciate how this seemingly simple structure can make all the difference in your sailing experience!

How to Choose the Right Sailboat Mast for Your Vessel

When it comes to sailing, the mast of your sailboat is like its backbone. It provides crucial support for the sails and allows you to harness the power of the wind, propelling you through the water with grace and speed. But choosing the right sailboat mast for your vessel can be a daunting task, considering the myriad options available in today’s market. Fear not, dear sailors, for we are here to guide you through this process and help you make an informed decision.

First and foremost, it’s important to consider the material of the mast. Common options include aluminum, carbon fiber, and wood. Aluminum masts are popular due to their affordability and durability. They can withstand various weather conditions while offering excellent structural integrity. On the other hand, carbon fiber masts are lightweight and have high tensile strength, resulting in improved performance on the water. Although they tend to be more expensive than aluminum masts, their benefits make them an attractive option for serious sailors looking to gain a competitive edge.

Next up is height – size matters! The height of your mast directly impacts your boat’s speed potential and overall performance. Taller masts generate more sail area but also require stronger rigging systems to handle increased loads. If you’re planning on leisurely coastal cruising, a shorter mast may suffice; however, if you’re aiming for bluewater or racing adventures where every knot counts, opting for a taller mast might be wise.

Additionally, understanding your sailing goals and preferences is crucial when selecting a mast profile or shape that suits your needs best. Do you prefer easy handling? A single-spreader rig could be ideal as it provides simplicity in terms of tuning and maintenance. Alternatively, if you’re after enhanced control and better downwind performance during races or offshore voyages, go for a double-spreader configuration that offers improved stability and versatility.

Now let’s talk about section shape – it’s time to get curvy! Masts come in various shapes, from round to elliptical, and even with full or square sections. The choice here will depend on your boat’s design and your sailing intentions. Round masts are known for their strength and versatility across different wind conditions. They offer a balanced compromise between performance and ease of use. On the other hand, an elliptical or oval shape provides improved aerodynamics, reducing drag and potentially enhancing speed.

Last but not least, don’t forget about the mast’s finishing touches – fittings and accessories. These seemingly small details can have a huge impact on both functionality and aesthetics. Stainless steel fittings are durable but can add unwanted weight, whereas lightweight alternatives such as titanium or carbon fiber offer strength without sacrificing performance.

In conclusion, choosing the right sailboat mast requires careful consideration of material, height, profile shape, and fittings. By understanding your own sailing objectives, preferences, and budgetary constraints, you can make an informed decision that will elevate your sailing experience to new heights (pun intended!). So weigh anchor and set sail on a journey of discovery with the perfect mast for your vessel!

Step-by-Step: Installing and Rigging Sailboat Masts

Welcome back to our sailing blog, where we aim to give you the best tips and tricks for all your seafaring adventures. Today, we dive into the intricate world of installing and rigging sailboat masts. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will help you navigate the process with ease.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

Before you begin, it’s essential to assemble all the necessary tools for the job. You’ll need a measuring tape, wrenches of various sizes, shackles, cotter pins, a winch handle, and line cutters. It’s always a good idea to have these tools readily available on your boat so that when it comes time to install or adjust your mast, you won’t waste any precious time rummaging through cluttered storage compartments.

Step 2: Measure Twice, Cut Once

The old adage holds true in sailboat mast installation as well. Before taking down your current mast (if applicable), measure its height from deck level accurately. This measurement is crucial as it determines whether your new mast will fit correctly onto your boat. Remember to account for any changes in boat specifications since the last mast installation.

Step 3: Prepare Your Mast and Deck Fittings

Now that you have all the measurements required; carefully inspect your new mast for any defects or damages during transportation. Ensure that all fittings are secure and correctly attached before proceeding further. Take note of any loose shackles or cotter pins that may need tightening or replacing.

Next up is preparing your deck fittings for receiving the new mast. Check that they are clean, well-lubricated, and free from any obstructions such as dirt or rust build-up. A properly prepared base will ensure smooth sailing throughout the installation process.

Step 4: Hoisting Your Mast

With your deck fittings ready, it’s time to hoist the mast into position. This task is easier with a team of two or more experienced sailors, so don’t hesitate to seek help. Carefully attach a halyard to the top of your mast and securely fasten it using shackles or appropriate knots. Slowly raise the mast, ensuring that it remains vertical at all times.

As you lift the mast, have someone guide the base onto its designated deck fitting. Ensure proper alignment and fit by carefully wiggling and adjusting as needed. Once in place, secure the base with robust cotter pins or other locking mechanisms.

Step 5: Attaching Shrouds and Stays

Now that your mast is secure, it’s time to attach the shrouds and stays – those vital support cables that keep everything steady while on the water. Begin by attaching each stay or shroud to their designated point on deck using appropriately sized shackles.

One by one, extend each cable from its anchor point on deck up towards its designated attachment point on the mast. Ensure that these cables are correctly tensioned without any sagging or excessive tautness. Use your wrenches to tighten all turnbuckles until they’re firm but not overly tightened.

Step 6: Trimming Your Sails

With your sailboat mast fully installed and rigging completed, it’s time for some final checks before setting sail! Make sure all lines are properly secured with correct tension – avoid overtightening which may distort sails’ shape when under wind pressure.

Double-check all connections for safety purposes—no loose shackles or cotter pins left behind. Lastly, trim your sails to optimize performance; adjust halyards and sheets as necessary for proper sail shape.

Final Thoughts

Installing and rigging sailboat masts may seem like an overwhelming task initially, but with careful planning and attention to detail, anyone can accomplish this feat. Remember to take your time and don’t rush the process; safety should always be your top priority.

We hope this step-by-step guide has shed some light on the intricacies of mast installation and rigging. Stay tuned for more informative blog posts to make your sailing experience even more enjoyable!

Sailboat Mast Maintenance: Expert Tips and Tricks

Ah, the open sea, the sound of waves crashing against the hull, the wind gently guiding your sailboat across the water. There’s something incredibly liberating about being out on the water with nothing but your boat and the elements. But amidst all that freedom and adventure lies a responsibility – the maintenance of your sailboat mast.

Like any well-oiled machine, a sailboat requires regular upkeep to ensure its optimal performance. And when it comes to masts, proper maintenance is key to ensuring both safety and efficiency on the open waters. If you’re ready to dive into some expert tips and tricks for sailboat mast maintenance, look no further!

1. Preemptive Inspections: Before setting sail on any journey, be sure to conduct a thorough inspection of your mast. Check for any signs of damage or wear such as cracks, corrosion, or loose fittings. By catching these issues early on, you can prevent more significant problems from arising while at sea.

2. Rigging Routine: The rigging plays a crucial role in supporting your mast’s structure and controlling the sails’ positioning – don’t neglect it! Regularly inspect and tune your rigging to ensure optimal tension and alignment. Look out for any fraying or rusting wires that may compromise their strength.

3. Routine Cleaning & Lubrication: Just like anything exposed to saltwater conditions, masts are prone to accumulating dirt, grime, and salt deposits over time. Take care of your mast by giving it a good scrub with warm soapy water regularly. Additionally, apply lubricant to all moving parts such as sheaves and cleats to keep them running smoothly.

4. Say No To Corrosion: The salty marine environment can wreak havoc on metal surfaces if left unattended for too long – especially when it comes to aluminum masts known for their susceptibility to corrosion. Protect your mast by periodically using a reputable anti-corrosion treatment, and consider investing in sacrificial anodes to ward off this pesky problem.

5. Seamanship with Paint: Aesthetics may not be the primary concern for some sailors, but a well-painted mast can enhance both visual appeal and longevity. Use high-quality marine-grade paint suited for aluminum or wooden masts to provide an extra layer of protection against the elements. Ensure you properly prepare and prime the surface before applying any paint.

6. Don’t Forget the Dull Bits: While the mast itself rightfully demands most of your attention, don’t overlook other components such as spreaders, halyards, and winches. These often-forgotten areas require regular cleaning, lubrication, and inspecting to prevent potential snags or malfunctions when it matters most – out on the water.

7. Reach New Heights with Height Safety: If you’re planning any ambitious adventures that involve ascending to heights on your sailboat’s mast, always prioritize safety first! Make sure you have proper rigging equipment, such as bosun’s chairs or harnesses, and never ascend without a competent crew member supporting you from below.

8. Get Professional Help: When in doubt about any aspect of sailboat mast maintenance – whether it’s detecting hidden damages or mastering complex repairs – enlist the help of professionals who specialize in sailing gear servicing. Their expertise will ensure your mast remains shipshape throughout all your nautical endeavors.

Remember, maintaining a sailboat is not just about preserving its physical condition; it also ensures the safety of everyone on board and prolongs its lifespan. By following these expert tips and tricks for sailboat mast maintenance, you’ll be able to navigate confidently through any adventure that lies ahead while embracing the wonders of life on the open water!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Masts Answered

When it comes to sailboat masts, there are always a few burning questions that come up time and time again. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or just starting out, it’s important to fully understand the ins and outs of this crucial component of your vessel. So, we’ve gathered some frequently asked questions about sailboat masts and provided detailed answers to help you navigate the waters with ease.

Q: What is a sailboat mast? A: A sailboat mast is a vertical spar that supports the sails on a sailing vessel. It plays a vital role in maintaining stability and maximizing performance while out on the water.

Q: What materials are sailboat masts made of? A: Sailboat masts can be constructed from various materials such as aluminum, carbon fiber, or wood. Each material has its own advantages and considerations like durability, weight, cost, and maintenance requirements.

Q: How do I know if my sailboat mast needs to be replaced? A: There are several signs that indicate it may be time to replace your sailboat mast. These include visible cracks, excessive corrosion or rust, bent or misshapen sections, or noticeable weakening of its structure. If you notice any of these issues during regular inspections, it’s best to consult with a professional for further evaluation.

Q: Can I repair a damaged sailboat mast instead of replacing it? A: In some cases, minor damage to a sailboat mast can be repaired rather than replaced entirely. However, this depends on the severity of the damage and the type of material used in construction. It is crucial to consult with an expert who can assess whether repair is feasible without compromising safety and performance.

Q: How often should I inspect my sailboat mast? A: Regular inspection is crucial for maintaining the integrity of your sailboat mast. We recommend conducting visual checks before every outing and performing more thorough inspections at least once per season or after any significant weather event or impact.

Q: How do I measure the height of my sailboat mast? A: To accurately measure the height of your sailboat mast, you can use a tape measure or refer to the manufacturer’s specifications. Measure from the base of the mast to the highest point it projects above the deck. Always double-check this measurement to ensure your vessel safely navigates under low bridges and restricted areas.

Q: Can I modify my sailboat mast for better performance? A: Modifying your sailboat mast can indeed enhance its performance to some extent. However, it is essential to consult with sailing experts or naval architects before making any alterations. They will evaluate your vessel’s design and recommend modifications that could optimize your sailing experience without compromising safety or stability.

Q: Are there any special maintenance requirements for sailboat masts? A: Sailboat masts require regular maintenance, regardless of material, to prolong their lifespan and ensure safe operation. This includes routine inspections, cleaning, lubrication, anti-corrosion treatment in relevant areas, and careful attention to fittings like spreaders and rigging attachments.

Q: Can I install additional equipment on my sailboat mast? A: Many sailors choose to install additional equipment on their sailboat masts such as antennas, wind instruments, or lights. Before doing so, it’s crucial to consider the added weight and potential impacts on balance and stability. Consult with professionals who can suggest optimum locations for mounting these accessories while minimizing any adverse effects.

Remember that when it comes to sailboat masts, knowledge is key. By understanding these frequently asked questions and their answers in detail, you will be better equipped to navigate smoothly through your sailing adventures while keeping both safety and performance at the forefront of your mind.

Exploring Different Types of Sailboat Masts and Their Benefits

When it comes to sailing, one of the most important parts of a sailboat is its mast. Acting as the central structural support, the type of mast you choose can greatly influence your sailing experience. In this blog post, we will dive into exploring different types of sailboat masts and uncovering their unique benefits.

1. The Classic Tall Mast: The tall mast design is reminiscent of traditional sailing vessels and offers a timeless appeal. It provides increased sail area for harnessing stronger winds and achieving higher speeds. With a tall mast, you’ll be able to take advantage of more wind power, making it an ideal choice for those who crave exhilarating speed on the open water.

2. The Bendy Mast: In contrast to the rigid nature of traditional masts, bendy masts have become increasingly popular among sailors seeking enhanced performance. By incorporating flexible materials or engineering techniques into its construction, the bendy mast allows for greater control over sail shape and camber adjustment. This flexibility ensures optimal airflow around the sails, resulting in improved maneuverability and responsiveness.

3. The Carbon Fiber Mast: For those craving both strength and lightness in their sailboat’s mast, carbon fiber is an unmatched material choice. Carbon fiber masts offer exceptional stiffness-to-weight ratios, allowing sailors to maximize their vessel’s overall performance potential. With reduced weight aloft, carbon fiber masts enhance stability while minimizing heeling forces – now that’s a winning combination!

4. The Fractional Rigging System: Moving away from individual mast types per se but closely linked to what’s atop your boat is fractional rigging system designs. These systems involve attaching the forestay (the cable supporting the front portion of the mast) at some point below the top; this configuration results in reduced stress on both the boat and crew during gusts or high winds. The fractional rig also enables easy depowering by adjusting halyard tension without compromising pointing ability or sail trim.

5. The Wing Masts: Looking to embrace cutting-edge sailing innovations? Look no further than the wing masts. Popularized in high-performance racing sailboats, they provide superior aerodynamic efficiency due to their streamlined shape. By reducing drag and turbulence, wing masts allow sailors to achieve great speeds while experiencing reduced heeling forces—an excellent choice for those seeking both speed and stability in their sailing adventures.

In conclusion, choosing the right type of sailboat mast is crucial for optimizing performance, speed, maneuverability, and overall sailing experience. Whether you opt for the classic tall mast for a traditional appeal or choose a carbon fiber mast for strength and lightness, there are various options available to suit your preferences. Exploring different types of sailboat masts opens up a world of possibilities, each offering its unique benefits that can elevate your sailing journey to new heights – quite literally!

What Sail Dimensions are Required to Calculate Sail Areas?

The required sail dimensions for calculating the area of any triangular sails are usually its height and the length of its foot. But that only works for mainsails and mizzens with no roach, and jibs with a 90 degree angle at the clew - and what about high-cut headsails, spinakers and cruising chutes? Read on...

Foresail and mainsail dimensions are universally referenced with the letters 'J', 'I', 'E' and 'P' approximating to the length of the foredeck, height of the mast, length of the boom and the height of the main sail - but more accurately defined further down this page.

Yacht designers need these sail dimensions to calculate thought provoking stuff such as the sail-area/displacement ratios of their creations, and sailmakers need them before they put scissors to sailcloth.

If our sailboat's sails were perfectly triangular then, as every schoolboy knows, their area would be 'half the height, times the base' - but with the possible exception of a mainsail with a straight luff, generally they're not. Here's how it works...

Main and Mizzen Sail Dimensions

These are almost right-angled triangles except for the curvature of the leach (the 'roach') which increases the sail area.

It's usually calculated as:~

Area = (luff x foot)/1.8, or

Area = ( P x E )/1.8, where:~

'P' is the distance along the aft face of the mast from the top of the boom to the highest point that the mainsail can be hoisted, and
'E' is the distance along the boom from the aft face of the mast to the outermost point on the boom to which the main can be pulled.

For the mizzen sails on ketches and yawls , 'P' and 'E' relate to the mizzen mast and boom.

For more heavily roached sails, the increased area can be accounted for by reducing the denominator in the formula to 1.6.

Clearly calculating sail areas isn't going to be an exact science...

Jibs, Genoas and Staysail Dimensions

For a working jib that fills the fore triangle - but no more - and with a foot that's parallel to the deck, then you've got a 'proper' right-angled triangular sail, whose area is:~

Area = (luff x foot)/2, or

Area = ( I x J )/2, where:~

'I' is the distance down the front of mast from the genoa halyard to the level of the main deck, and
'J' is the distance along the deck from the headstay pin to the front of the mast.

Genoas, by definition, have a clew which extends past the mast and are described by the amount by which they do so. For instance a 135% genoa has a foot 35% longer than 'J' and a 155% genoa 55% longer. Areas are calculated as follows:~

Area (135% genoa) = (1.44 x I x J )/2, and

Area (155% genoa) = (1.65 x I x J )/2

High-cut Headsails

The 'luff perpendicular' is needed for measuring the area of a high-cut jib

But these formulae don't work for a high-cut jib with a raised clew - unless you imagine the sail turned on its side such that the luff is the base and the luff perpendicular is the height.

It's still a simple calculation though, once you know the length of the luff perpendicular ( LP ), the sail area is:~

Area = (luff x luff perpendicular)/2, or

Area = ( L x LP )/2, where:~

'L' is the distance along the forestay from the headstay pin to the front of the mast, and
'LP' is the shortest distance between the clew and the luff of the genoa.

Spinnaker Sail Dimensions

Much like calculating foresail areas, but with different multipliers for conventional spinnakers and asymmetric spinnakers...

Conventional Spinnakers

Area = (0.9 x luff x foot), or

Area = (0.9 x I x J ), where:~

'I' is the distance from the highest spinnaker halyard to the deck, and
'J' is the length of the spinnaker pole.

Asymmetric Spinnakers

Area = (0.8 x luff x foot), or

Area = (0.8 x I x J ), where:~

'I' is the distance from the highest spinnaker halyard to the deck, and
'J' is the distance from the front face of the mast to the attachment block for the tackline.

More about Sails...

Are Molded and Laminate Sails One Step Too Far for Cruising Sailors?

Although woven sails are the popular choice of most cruising sailors, laminate sails and molded sails are the way to go for top performance. But how long can you expect them to last?

Is Carrying Storm Sails on Your Cruising Boat Really Necessary?

It's good insurance to have storm sails available in your sail locker if you are going offshore, and these are recommended fabric weights and dimensions for the storm jib and trysail

Using Spinnaker Sails for Cruising without the Drama!

When the wind moves aft and the lightweight genoa collapses, you need one of the spinnaker sails. But which one; conventional or asymmetric? Star cut, radial head or tri-radial?

The Mainsail on a Sailboat Is a Powerful Beast and Must Be Controlled

Learn how to hoist the mainsail, jibe it, tack it, trim it, reef it and control it with the main halyard, the outhaul, the mainsheet and the kicker.

Is Dacron Sail Cloth Good Enough for Your Standard Cruising Sails?

Whilst Dacron sail cloth is the least expensive woven fabric for standard cruising sails, do the superior qualities of the more hi-tech fabrics represent better value for money?

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NOTICE TO BUILDERS AND SAILMAKERS

WARNING

It is impossible to foresee every conceivable innovation which may be thought of in the future and to mention every suggestion that has been ruled illegal in the past. When considering anything in connection with the boat or its sails or equipment which is not within established practice in the Star Class or is not clearly covered by plans or specifications, you must assume that it is illegal, and must obtain a ruling from the Technical Advisory Board before attempting it.

Builders In order to obtain a license to build a Starboat, a builder must conclude a License Agreement with the International Star Class Yacht Racing Association and submit to the Technical Advisory Board the following: 1. Hull Construction and lines drawing 2. Lay-up schedule and samples of lay-up 3. Drawing of keel, rudder and skeg 4. Construction of mast, boom and rigging. No number or measurement certificate can be issued until the above items have been approved by the Technical Advisory Board. If a builder changes his construction he is required to submit the concerned drawings or samples to the TAB for approval. New Construction Methods and Materials In keeping with the Class's long standing policy of seeking more economical means of building yachts, it is believed to be in the best interests of the Star Class to actively seek new methods or materials while at the same time maintaining the competitive value of all existing yachts. To that end the following guidelines are intended for those members seriously interested in undertaking such developments, which will ultimately foster the growth of the Class.

1. A member may request, in writing, permission to build one prototype yacht of nonspecification materials and/or construction methods. His proposal should include a general statement regarding the estimated costs and benefits to be derived, drawings, sketches, etc.

2. The Class Management Committee, acting with the advice of the Technical Advisory Board, will grant the builder the right to qualify for a provisional measurement certificate for a prototype yacht, provided that the following conditions are met: (a) Upon completion, the prototype yacht meets all specifications for hull shape, uniformity of construction and weight. Also flotation must be proved by test. (b) A full disclosure of the details of construction is made to the Technical Advisory Board including, among other things, scantlings, material specifications, special assembly techniques, photos of the construction process, and costs.

3. The provisional certificate will authorize that prototype yacht to qualify for all races except Silver and Gold events. 4. Full disclosure of racing results and an analysis of same certified by a fleet or district officer are to be submitted to the CMC upon completion of a representative number of races.

5. A final measurement certificate will be issued if the Class adopts that method of construction through its normal procedures of a fleet resolution, Technical Advisory Board approval, annual meeting approval and membership vote. Such approval will be granted provided that the construction of the prototype yacht does not vary to any substantial extent from the specifications finally adopted.

6. On the recommendation of the Technical Advisory Board, a permanent measurement certificate may be granted to any specially constructed yacht by the Class Management Committee.

Conditions Governing Sale of Plans and Specifications These conditions must be strictly enforced in the interest of keeping the Star a one-design class and to protect the prospective buyer of a new or second-hand Star from any intentional or unintentional misrepresentation concerning the boat's eligibility. This notice accompanies all official plans and is made a part thereof. It is the full text of the condensed agreement of sale that appears on each plan.

Work only from official plans. Never copy the dimensions of another Star or its measurement certificate; sag or warpage of an old hull can be misleading, also the specifications are subject to occasional revision.

AGREEMENT Whereas the International Star Class Yacht Racing Association owns all right and title to, and interest in, the design of a Star Class yacht and whereas official plans and specifications may be purchased conditionally from the Association; now therefore it is understood that the purchaser, by accepting and retaining the said plans, agrees to the terms and conditions herein:

USE OF PLANS. Plans shall be used only in connection with the construction of Star Class yachts and their sails and accessories. The purchaser agrees not to resell, lend for publication or any other purpose, or transfer in any manner the plans or copies thereof, without authority in writing from the International Governing Committee of the Association.

INELIGIBILITY. Unless a yacht and its sails conform to the plans and specifications, within the allowed limitations, it shall be barred from the Star Class. The Association reserves the right to bar any yacht or sail constructed by a firm or individual who is not recorded with the Association as possessing official plans, or who fails to comply with any of the conditions herein.

COST OF PLANS. Complete set of plans, $30; any single plan, $10; Rudder template, $20. Plans cannot be lent, nor sent on approval or credit.

NUMBER TAX. Builders are required to pay a tax of $400 on each yacht built when applying for a number on Form R-1. A number will not be issued unless the yacht is actually under construction and the name and address of its owner are given. Yachts being built for stock should be reported but will not be issued numbers until complete and ready or measuring. For the purpose of identification, the number must be cut into the upper side of the keelson (or if the boat is fiberglass without a keelson, then cut permanently embedded at a location as near as possible to where they would be if the boat had a keelson), before the boat is measured. This number may be revoked if the yacht is not measured or is unable to obtain a certificate within a reasonable time.

SAIL ROYALTIES. An I.S.C.Y.R.A. sail royalty button must be permanently affixed to every mainsail and every jib. It is the obligation of the sailmaker to buy these buttons from the Association central office at $50 each. No sail can be used for racing without a button: it is not a Star sail unless the royalty button appears thereon.

REMITTANCES. Remittances for all of the above must be made payable to and sent to the I.S.C.Y.R.A. at its central office. Sums stated are in USA currency, net in Annapolis, Maryland, USA.

KEEL WEIGHT CERTIFICATE. A keel weight certificate must be furnished by the builder to the measurer. It may be obtained from a public scale or such other source as the measurer will accept.

REVISION OR SPECIFICATIONS. It is the responsibility of those who construct Star yachts or their sails or accessories to keep advised as to possible annual revisions of the specifications.

SPECIFICATIONS EXPLANATIONS 1.1 Important - In interpreting any point not covered, or wording of obscure meaning,the Technical Advisory Board shall consider the intended meaning, rather than any technical misconstruction that might be derived from the wording, and shall bear in mind at all times the basic principle of the specifications which is to maintain the Star within reasonable limitations as a standard one-design class.

1.2. Dimension and Weights in these specifications are in Standard International (S.I.) metric units, except that mass is usually called weight. When not otherwise specified, measurements of lengths are in millimeters (mm).

1.3. Requirements - A yacht, its spars and sails, must conform strictly throughout with respect to design, dimensions, construction, and material, to the official plans and specifications of the I.S.C.Y.R.A., subject to Class Rule 33, to be considered a Star and be eligible to the Star Class. THE ASSOCIATION'S MEASUREMENT CERTIFICATE IS THE ONLY RECOGNIZED PROOF OF ELIGIBILITY TO THE STAR CLASS.

1.4. Yacht's Number- Before a certificate can be issued, a yacht's number must be permanently affixed in not less than 51 mm figures in clear view.

1.5. Options - Nothing is optional in these specifications unless the word optional appears, and then only within the limitations described, in which case that which is mentioned is that which is recommended, in points of both safety and speed. Use of a substitute, even where allowed, is always at user's risk.

1.6. Materials.Wood: As a guide in selecting materials, the following table indicates densities of woods specifically referred to in the articles below. Weights with 15% moisture: Mahogany 512 kg/m3 White Oak 712" Port Orford Cedar 481" Red Cedar 385" Sitka Spruce 433" Plywood, veneer board, laminated woods, pressed wood, fiberboard, composition beard, balsa, cork, and woods without sufficient strength to hold fastenings shall not be used unless specifically mentioned.

1.7. Materials- Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP): Any long strand glass fiber material may be used with a rigid, high strength resin, provided that the glass content of the combination exceeds 35 percent of the total by weight. Rigid, low density material, such as balsa, Aerolam, or plastic foam, may be used as a core between surfaces of fiberglass laminates. All materials used must have low absorption and high resistance to deterioration when in continues contact with either fresh or salt water. Aluminum, Nomex, or other metallic honeycomb core materials are permitted, but only for use as flat panels such as are used for flotation bulkheads and other internal hull stiffening. Such materials are not approved for hull or deck core material. Carbon fiber, Kevlar, or other exotic materials are not allowed in any new construction or repair of GRP or wood boats

1.8. Plan Approval - Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP) Construction: Each builder's method of construction must be approved by the Technical Advisory Board prior to the start of construction. The submitted plans must contain enough detail to adequately describe all materials, attachments, and the local reinforcements as well as the general construction of the hull, deck and skeg.

1.9. Recommendations - The recommendations listed in the Specifications are based upon years of experience of many Star owners and builders.

2. HULL DIMENSIONS All Measurements for location of rudder, keel, mast, jib downhaul, Point "B", stations, and length overall start from Point "T", the mid-point of the true transom which is the fair intersection of the outside planes of the transom and the deck exclusive of moldings. See 14, Limitations and the plans for dimensions. Point "B" is on the centerline of the boat, at the height of the top of the deck edge at the sizes, 4477 mm forward of Point AT". All deck measurements are taken exclusive of moldings. Measurements are to be taken of the truly faired shape of the hull. The use of bumps and hollows at measurement points is specifically prohibited.

NOMINAL DIMENSIONS Length Over-all 6922 Waterline length 4724 Beam at deck 1734 Draught 1016 Beam at chine 1372

3. HULL CONSTRUCTION - WOOD 3.1. Planking 3.1.1. KEEL PLANK - Not less than 19, nor more than 22 thick. 3.1.2. BOTTOM PLANKING - Not less than 19 thick, nor more than 22 thick. The two planks along side the keel plank may have a small groove cut into them for drainage which shall be not more than 6 deep and 19 wide. 3.1.3. TRANSOM - Not less than 22 thick. Angle of transom must be to bevel shown on plans. 3.1.4. TOPSIDES - Not less than 19 thick, nor more than 22 thick, planks full length if possible. 3.1.5. OPTIONS - Any number of planks may be used, but double planking is not allowed. Any kind of wood can be used, except as noted in Sec. 1.6. Type of seams optional. A rabbeted chine log or beveled chine blocks are permissible if not so designed as to weaken the joint between side and bottom frames. 3.1.6. RECOMMENDED - Mahogany keel plank; others red cedar.

3.2. Frames 3.2.1. FRAMES - 343 center to center. In way of fin keel (nos. 9 through 13) to be sided 38, molded 38, tapered (in straight line) towards end to sided 32, molded 38. All other bottom frames to be sided 32, molded 38. Side frames to be moulded 32, sided 22 in the top portion, expanding into knees in the bottom portion overlapping the bottom frames at least 114. The width of the knees (side frames) along a line bisecting the chine angle shall be no less than 89, and they shall fair into the straight upper portion of the frame no less than 152 above the inside chine knuckle. Overlap may be reduced to 89 at frames 3 and 18, and 64 at frames 2 and 19. The width along the bisecting line may be reduced in proportion at these points. If keel bolts are over 16 diameter, the bottom frames in way of keel must be increased in siding by the amount of such overage. 3.2.2. OPTIONS - Additional frames may be added, but specified frames must be shaped, centered, and joined approximately as shown. May be larger but must be no less than dimensions given. Frames as shown may be laminated of bent strips, but must be standard size, shape, and design. Limber holes in the form of notches not more than 9 deep and 32 wide may be cut in the bottom side of bottom frames and side frames where they lie against the bottom planking not more than 38 from the ends of the bottom frames. 3.2.3. RECOMMENDED - Mahogany.

3.3 Stem 3.3.1. STEM - Sided 76 molded as shown. 3.3.2. OPTION - May be built up of laminated bent wood strips, thus simulating a natural crook. Must be of shape and dimensions shown on plans. 3.3.3. RECOMMENDED - Mahogany, Sitka spruce, hackmatack.

3.4. Deck 3.4.1. DECK- 11 thick. 3.4.2. OPTIONS - Additional thickness allowed. Canvas, fiberglass (resin) or other covering may be used. Weather strip or rend optional, but shall not extend more than 13 beyond measured deck edge. Plywood decks may be used but shall be at least 8 thick. 3.4.3. RECOMMENDED - Cedar.

3.5 Deck Beams 3.5.1. Large Beams - forward and aft of mast and at ends of cockpit sided 32, molded 38. 3.5.2. OTHER DECK BEAMS - sided 22, molded 32. 3.5.3. OPTIONS - Beams may be larger, but shall not be less than dimensions given. Hanging knees and stanchions shown on plans may be modified or omitted, provided sufficient bracing be used to stiffen the boat and counteract stresses at those points as determined by the Technical Advisory Board. 3.5.4. RECOMMENDED - Sitka spruce.

3.6. Fastenings 3.6.1. Planking must be fastened to frames with screws, or serrated shank nails, but must be fastened to transom, stem, and joined at chine with screws. Glue and/or dowels shall not be substituted for metal fastenings. 3.6.2. OPTIONS - Any metal fastenings allowed. 3.6.3. RECOMMENDED - Silicon bronze screws.

4. HULL CONSTRUCTION - GLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC (GRP) 4.1. Conditions- Regulations are imposed on the use of GRP construction to prevent attainment of unfair performance advantages from its substitution for wood in the structures of the yacht. In any case where there is a question as to the interpretation of these regulations, it is the responsibility of the builder to obtain a decision from the Technical Advisory Board prior to the start of construction.

4.2. Hull - With certain approved exceptions, the bottom, sides, and transom must be of a uniform structural mass throughout. The weight per unit area of any part of the hull, including a representative portion of any structure required to stiffen the surface, must equal or exceed 8.8 kg/m2. Thickness of the glass-foam-glass sandwich shall be sufficient to provide the flotation required by Section 7.

4.3. Deck - With certain approval exceptions, the deck must be of a uniform structural weight throughout. The weight per unit area of any part of the deck, including a representative portion of any structure required to stiffen the surface, must equal or exceed 5.4 kg/m 2 .

(Originally, GRP specifications were written in order to make GRP yachts comparable to those made of wood. With the exceptions of heavier frames and special braces, keelsons, etc., wood boats are "uniform" (i.e., uniform plank thickness and frame cross-sections). Accordingly, GRP (fiberglass) yachts are to be "uniform" in the basic lay-up of the hull and deck. The 8.8 kg/m 2 required in the hull and the 5.4 kg/m 2 required in the deck represent an average of the total weight including necessary stiffening. Thus the actual weight of a uniform lay-up for the purpose of uniform construction may be something less than the 8.8 kg/m 2 (hull) and 5.4 kg/m 2 (deck).

Because of the infinitely possible combinations of core materials, resin mixtures, different types of fiberglass cloth (weave and thickness), which would be satisfactory for Star construction, no specific lay-up has been written into the Specifications. Rather, it has been required that builders submit their construction plans and detailed lay-up schedule to be approved by the Technical Advisory Board before the builder begins construction. It is our view that the unit surface weight is self-limiting due to the need for hull stiffness and the constraint of overall hull weight. Too thin a surface would result in too much hull flexibility and inferior speed and durability. Too thick a surface will deprive the stiffening structure of the material required to make the boat rigid and have the same results. However there are certain conditions where either extreme might be advantageous and therefore it is essential to maintain the required uniformity. When plans are analyzed for approval they are viewed in this light. Any plan which deviates toward either of the two above extremes is rejected. All approved plans are on file in the central office along with sample lay-ups for the uniform construction. It is expected that these construction plans be followed by the builder and that any significant changes in the GRP lay-up that a builder may wish to use must be first approved by the Technical Advisory Board.

Secs. 4.2 and 4.3 provide for "certain approved exceptions" to the uniform construction. The practice of increasing the lay-up thickness and weight in addition to the uniform construction, along the bottom from slightly forward of the mast step to slightly aft of the rudder post is an approved exception. Other exceptions would include, but are not necessarily limited to: hull to deck joints, areas where special fittings are attached, bulkhead and stiffener attachments, etc. However, these items must be shown in sufficient detail as a part of or addendum to the plans before the plans receive final approval. -T.A.B., 1978)

4.3.1. DECK INSTALLATION - The deck must be attached to the hull in a manner which adequately resists the torsional forces in the hull and prevents the formation of leakage through the joint. The weight per unit area of any part of the joint must equal or exceed that of the surface in which the joint is made. 4.3.2. RECOMMENDED - A flush lap joint in the surface of the hull, cemented with a rigid adhesive resin and riveted.

4.4. Local Reinforcements - The hull and deck shall be reinforced as necessary to provide adequate support of the mast step, keel, skeg, rudder, cockpit opening and rigging. Such reinforcements may be in addition to the uniform mass of the hull and deck, provided that they are not so constructed to intentionally ballast the hull. 4.4.1. RECOMMENDED - Approximately 4.5 kg of structure should be allotted to these reinforcements.

4.5 Metal Inserts - Inserts of corrosion-resistant metal may be included as part of the hull and deck for attachment of rigging, tensile supports for the mast step, or attachment of normal equipment. Such inserts must be limited to the size and number necessary to perform their structural functions and must not be so constructed or arranged to intentionally ballast the hull. The tracks for running rigging and metal parts necessary to secure the keel to the hull are not to be considered as a part of the hull or deck.

5. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS GENERAL 5.1. Keelson - To be wood, 152 x 19 minimum length from Station 2 to Station 8. Shall weigh not more than 5 kg in GRP hulls. 5.1.1. OPTIONS - May be tapered forward of Station 5 and aft of Station 7, to not less than 76 x 6.3. May be omitted in GRP hulls. 5.1.2 RECOMMENDED - Mahogany.

5.2. Mast Step 5.2.1. POSITION - 152. fore and 102 aft variation of position allowed. Design optional. No lateral variation allowed. 5.2.2. RECOMMENDED - Mahogany.

5.3. Rudder- Must conform in size, design, shape and position to I.S.C.Y.R.A. Drawing "F". No concavity in profile. May be of wood, including plywood, solid, but may be sharpened. May be of GRP or sandwich construction.

5.4. Skeg - To be rigidly attached to the hull structure. 5.4.1. DIMENSIONS - Not less than 25 thick at rudder post. The maximum depth of the skeg at the rudder post centerline shall not exceed 432. The maximum length of the skeg from rudder post forward along the bottom contour of the hull shall not exceed 940. (Length requirement does not apply if the aft edge of the keel forms the termination of the skeg.) The contour of the bottom of the skeg can at no point be more than 26 above or below a straight line between the maximum allowable depth and length points, and may not be concave, except that the skeg may be joined to the trailing edge of the keel with a fillet of no greater than 26 radius, and may extend downward a distance of no greater than 13 from a point no greater than 13 from the leading edge of the rudder. Depth of the skeg shall be measured to the extension of its bottom line, as if such downward extension did not exist. The average weight of a skeg shall not exceed 14.7 kg/m 2 , the skeg shall not be hollow. 5.4.2. OPTION - May be of wood, including plywood. May be of GRP or sandwich construction.

5.5. Tiller - Design and construction optional, but must be of approved materials. (not retroactive to Measurement Certificates approved before 1 January 1990). When in its lowest position, the bottom of the tiller shall be above the deck centerline when viewed in profile, both at the aft end of the tiller and at Station 8. The T.A.B. has approved the following materials for tillers: wood, steel, and stainless steel, aluminum, GRP.

5.6. Rudder Post - Position only as per plans, of solid stainless steel, not less than 25 in diameter, rudder to be thoroughly fastened to it. Method and material of fastening optional.

5.7. Fin Keel - To be of solid gray cast iron free from substantial imperfections. Shall conform to I.S.C.Y.R.A. Drawing 4 and the limitations. As a rust preventative, the keel may be painted, plated, galvanized or coated with fiberglass (GRP), provided that such coating shall have a specific gravity not greater than the iron. Keel shall not be bored or plugged to affect its weight or center of mass. The outer edge of the flange may be set flush with the true bottom of the hull, or the top of the flange may be no lower than the true bottom. 5.7.1. WEIGHT - Weight of the keel including coatings: minimum 394.5 kg, maximum 408.5 kg. A Keel Weight Certificate signed by a Certified Measurer, is required with the Measurement Certificate for any new boat or any change involving the keel. 5.7.2. FAIRING STRIPS - Fairing strips may be installed around the keel flange, but shall measure not more than 305 from outboard edge on one side to outboard edge on the other, and shall extend not more than 305 forward or aft of the flange.

5.8. Stem - Sided 76, molded as shown. The actual bow must be a true prolongation of the sides and deck and come within 35 of Point A.

6. COCKPIT 6.1. Cockpit - Open, as shown on plans. One bar or athwartship traveler, not over 76 wide at top center, is allowed. The forward end of the cockpit opening is limited with 3685 maximum forward of Point "T" and the aft end with 1605 minimum forward of Point "T".

The forward end of the cockpit opening is limited with 3685 maximum forward of Point "T" and the aft end with 1605 minimum forward of Point "T".

6.2. Options - Self bailing type allowed. Cockpit may be rounded at corners of ends and/or at crossbar, but maximum allowed radius of 305. No hatch, shelf or other device, including any part of the crossbar, which reduces the open area of the cockpit beyond the foregoing limitation, is allowed.

7. FLOTATION 7.1. Flotation - To provide adequate flotation in the event the hull becomes filled with water, the sealed volume contained in the structure of the hull and deck plus any additional volume permanently installed within the hull must equal a total of 720 liters (dm 3 ). At least 340 liters of this volume must be contained within the uniform weight distribution of the hull structure as required by Specs.4. Boats of wooden construction will be credited with 340 litres of flotation contained in their normal structure.

Additional flotation must be added so as to total at least 720 liters of positive buoyancy. This may be provided by sealed compartments or tanks or closed cell foam type materials. It may also be incorporated in the construction of the hull. The location of the flotation devices shall be such that the buoyancy effect is essentially balanced about Station 6 (approximately 1525 aft of the mast) for the purpose of floating the boat level or in slightly bow-up attitude.

On boats built prior to January 1, 1974, commercial buoyancy bags manufactured specifically for this purpose are permitted. They shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and in such a way as to resist chafing and movement due to surging water should the boat be swamped. 1 kg of rated buoyancy = 1 liter. When buoyancy bags are employed they must be kept inflated.

8. COAMING Coaming - Optional, or may be omitted.

9. HULL FINISH 9.1. Hull Finish - Painting or coating optional, except that the application of ribbed or otherwise specially structured material (such as "riblets") is prohibited.

9.2. Refinishing - Refinishing with any coating, including GRP on wood hulls, is permitted provided that the dimensions of the hull are not changed (within the accuracy of normal measurement).

10. SPARS 10.1 Spars - Hollow spars are permitted. Concave surfaces in either transverse or longitudinal planes are not allowed, with the exception that concavities arising because of adding a track or a tunnel are permissible. Depth, including track and tunnel, cannot be more than 1 1/2 times the width (athwartships) at any section, and spars shall be no wider than they are deep at any section. 10.1.1. APPROVED MATERIALS - Wood, aluminum alloy of at least 90% aluminum, GRP, or any combination of the above. 10.2. Measurement Bands - To be painted on spar, 25 wide, of contrasting color. Where spars are too short to include full 25 width band, entire end of spar must be painted contrasting color except that where spars end exactly at measurement points or are shorter, no measurement band is necessary. Spars are to be supplied with permanent stops or limits to prevent sail from being extended past bands. A masthead halyard lock is a permanent stop. 10.3. Mast - Maximum height from Point "B" to bottom edge of upper band, 9652. Upper edge of mainsail headboard shall not extend above this point. Minimum height from Point "B" to upper edge of lower band, 381. Bottom of groove in boom, projected if necessary, shall not extend below this point.

Minimum section from 991 above Point "B" to 5105 above Point "B" is 57 x 70. Minimum section weight between these limits is 1.34 kg per linear meter.

Tapering is allowed from 5105 above Point "B" to top, except that wood masts may be tapered in any way provided that they conform to depth-width ratio at all sections. Minimum section is 32 x 32.

From heel of mast to 991 above Point "B", mast section is optional.

Forward face of mast from Point "T": min. 4420, max. 4680.

Mast may have one luff groove. Rotating masts are not allowed.

10.3.1. RECOMMENDED 57 x 70. 10.3.2. SPREADERS of any approved material. Size, design and number are optional. 10.3.3. TIP WEIGHT - A fully rigged mast must have a tip weight of 7 kg or more when measured as follows: (a) Halyards are in sailing position and mast is horizontal. (b) Mast is supported at the upper edge of lower measurement band on sawhorse or other suitable pivot. (c) All rigging is tensioned so that none of it above the lower measurement band sags lower than 600 mm below the spar or touches the ground. Tying with light twine is permitted. (d) All rigging extending below the measurement band is draped over the sawhorse. (e) The mast-head fly, if any, is left in place. (f) A scale reading of tip weight is taken at bottom edge of upper measurement band. Make-up weight to meet tip weight may be added at any location on the mast provided that it is permanently fastened. 10.4 Boom - Maximum distance from forward face of luff rope groove on mast, extended if necessary, to forward edge of measurement band, 4445. Boom may have one foot rope groove. 10.4.1. CUTOUTS in the boom surface: (a) Aft end of the boom may be tapered by cutting away the bottom of the section a maximum of 685 mm forward of the measurement band. This taper may no be concave when viewed in profile. (b)Cutouts are permitted for proper clearance to pass lines and wires. (c) No other cutouts are permitted. 10.4.2. On booms manufactured after 31 Dec. 1990, no portion of any external surface located more than 25 from the center of the foot groove shall have a radius of less than 19 except in way of cutouts.

10.5. Whisker Pole - Length min. 2286, max. 2896, measured at greatest extension from surface of mast when whisker pole is in place to outboard point on pole where the jib or jib sheets are constrained. Length may not be adjustable.

10.6. Reefing Equipment - Not allowed.

11. RIGGING 11.1. Jibstay - Shall be of steel or stainless steel not less than 2.29 in diameter and shall intersect the forward side of the mast min. 6782, max. 6934 above Point "B", and shall intersect the deck at a point min. 6610, max. 6712 forward of Point "T". For the purpose of these measurements, it shall be assumed that the jibstay intersects the mast at an angle of 17E. The jibstay must be carried outside the jib, must be kept fastened at all times, and may be slacked only enough to allow the jib luff wire to take the greater strain. The Jibstay may have a firmly fitted tube or coating totaling a maximum of 7,2 mm in diameter.

If the jib can be attached without disconnecting the jib luff wire (for example by hanks or tabs), then the use of only one headstay is permitted provided that it meets the above jibstay specifications.

The Jibstay may have a firmly fitted tube or coating totaling a maximum of 7,2 mm in diameter.

11.2. Other Rigging - Running Rigging including the backstays may be of any material.

12. SAILS *12.1. Sails - Allowed polyester woven material not lighter than 3.7 ounces per sailmaker's yard, (0.158 kg/m). The mainsail shall carry a 406 diameter red star, with the yacht's number beneath or on the leech. The numbers shall be not less than 381 in height and occupy a width of not less than 254 per numeral (except for the figure 1), the strokes having a thickness of not less than 64.

There shall be a space of at least 102 between consecutive numerals. Numbers must be clearly legible on both sides of the sail, and should not be back to back. Jib booms or clubs, roach reefs, double luff mainsails, loose-footed mainsails, and perforated sails are barred. Unwoven transparent panels, not exceeding 1.25 m 2 in total area, are permitted below half height in any sail. Only mainsail and jib are allowed. Reinforcement, of any fabric having the effect of stiffening the sail, is permitted only within the dimensions listed in Sec. 12.2 and 12.3. This reinforcement shall be capable of being folded. Other reinforcement, as a continuation of corner stiffening or elsewhere, comprising not more than two additional layers of material of no greater weight than the body of the sail, is permitted provided that it can be folded and is not stiffened by the addition of bonding agents, close stitching, or otherwise. Glued seams shall not be considered stiffening provided that they can be folded as described above. National letters, if displayed, shall be affixed to the mainsail in accordance with the official class sail plan.

12.2. Mainsail - Length of luff and foot governed by measurement bands on spars. See 10.3 and 10.4. Roach and draft governed by cross width from middle of leech to nearest luff point including bolt-rope, which shall not exceed 2807, the roach of leech having a normal curve. A normal curve is defined as a smooth curve that deviates no more than 13 from a straight line between battens. Roach and draft governed by cross widths not exceeding 2807 from the middle of the leech and 1665 from the three quarter point of the leech to the nearest luff point including bolt-rope. The roach of the leech shall be defined as a smooth curve that deviates no more than 13 from a straight line between battens.

Maximum dimensions: Leech 9779 Headboard, perpendicular to luff 114 Reinforcement (maximum distance of stiffening from corner) 432 Distance of advertisement or sailmaker's mark from corner 610

12.3. Jib Maximum dimensions: Luff 6299 Leech 5486 Foot 2235 Reinforcement radius 343 Advertisement radius 337

Leech, roach, and draft shall be governed by measurements taken across the jib from points 500, 2000 and 4267 mm down leech and luff from the top of the measurement triangle. These cross measurements shall not exceed 275 mm, 875 mm and 1600 mm respectively. Leech and foot curve must not have concavities except that the leech may be hollow between battens. This hollow shall not exceed 15 mm. Headboards are not allowed. Clew boards shall be permitted only within a distance of 76 from the apex of the clew. For measurement all the corners of the jib must simultaneously fall within a triangle of the above dimensions, and no portion of the sail shall fall outside of the triangle for at least 76 from any comer of the triangle. Foot roach shall not fall outside the measurement triangle more than 76 at any point. The center of the grommet or thimble to which the halyard attaches shall not be farther than 38 from the luff of the jib. Cunningham not allowed. Tack of the jib shall at all times be fastened within the jibstay location and on centerline of the boat. Jib may be set flying, but a jibstay is obligatory and luff wire in the jib shall not be considered a jibstay, except as provided for in Sec. 11.1.

*12.4. Battens - Mainsail: Four in mainsail spaced on leech as per plan. Upper batten, no restriction on length, all others not more than 1219 mm. Material optional. Jib: Three allowed in jib, located as per plan, top batten not to exceed 330 mm, 2 lower battens not to exceed 440 mm. Material optional. Batten pocket inside width not more than 50mm.

12.5. Measuring - Sails shall be measured in accordance with the requirements of Star Class Rule 32.

12.6. Sail Royalties - An I.S.C.Y.R.A. sail royalty button must be permanently affixed to every mainsail and every jib. It is the obligation of the sailmaker to buy these buttons from the Association central office at $50 USD each. No sail can be used for racing without a button: it is not a Star sail unless the royalty button appears thereon.

13. WEIGHT 13.1. Minimum weight of boat with all rigging, mast, and boom and including all items permanently fastened to the hull, including removable wooden floor boards not exceeding 11.3 kg. Shall be not less than 671 kg. Permanently fastened floorboards are not allowed. In the event that the weight of the boat is less than this amount the difference shall be made up only by the addition of any material securely fastened to the underside of the deck. Material shall not be added or built-in to standard members or hardware for the sole purpose of obviating such correction.

13.2. In addition, the hull must comply with the following: The weight of the hull and attached deck must exceed 190.5 kg. If the skeg is also included, the weight of the total assembly must exceed 192.5 kg. Included with the hull in these weights are exclusively the chainplates, jibstay attachment fitting, the mast step with its supporting structure, built-in bulkheads and deck supports, a keelson (optional in GRP hulls), the rudder post tube and flotation.

13.3. if additional material is added to make up weight, as required by Section 13.1, such material shall be sealed by a Certified Measurer. The seal or seals applied shall be impressed or attached such that no part of the material can be removed without irreparable damage or destruction of the seal. Seals shall be distinctively marked for identification. If no additional material is required under Section 13.1, a seal as above shall be attached within the hull. A boat must bear such seal or seals to be in conformance with measurement rules.

14. LIMITATIONS In addition to the foregoing, there shall be permanently affixed to the after end of the cockpit coaming a plaque stating the amount of the additional material, if any, so affixed.

Yacht shall be measured on keel, with spars and rigging removed, or with rigging slack, and hull unsupported; and in accordance with instructions issued to certified measures by the International Technical Advisory Board. Measurements shall be recorded on the I.S.C.Y.R.A. measurement form. Although only certain specific points on a Star are regularly measured and appear on the measurement certificate, it shall be thoroughly understood that any point may be measured, at the discretion of the I.S.C.Y.R.A. Technical Advisory Board, and shall be in accordance with plans, specifications, and the following limitations.

14.1. Hull 14.1.1. Hull shapes must conform to limitations shown on I.S.C.Y.R.A. Lines Drawing No. 1 and these specifications. 14.1.2. Deck shape at cockpit edge must conform to limitations shown in I.S.C.Y.R.A. Drawing 1. 14.1.3. Discontinuities in Deck Surface. Certain portions of the deck surface may be grooved or raised provided that the construction ensures that the structural integrity of the deck is as if the deck were one piece without the discontinuities. No fitting or deck discontinuity shall extend, or be mounted, below or outboard of a line defined by the extended surface of the sides or transom. A jib sheet or main sheet when led from the sail or boom to the deck must lead through or attach to a fitting which is mounted on the deck or to a car on a track that conforms with the requirements of this Section. Further, the deck may not be depressed below its normal arc shape in way of such a fitting attached to the deck. No sheet may pass below tangent with the normal deck surface in way of such a fitting. Provided that the above requirements are met, it is permitted to lead the main sheet to a block on the bottom of the interior and thence forward to the cockpit. Only those discontinuities listed below are permitted. (a) Depressed Portions. Slots and grooves are permitted for handholds and for proper clearance of wires and lines emerging from below decks, provided that they do not violate the integrity of flotation compartments, and for installation of tracks for athwartships and/or fore and aft movement of fittings. Any fitting mounted on a track shall not be lower than the same fitting mounted on the normal deck surface. Nor shall the track which carries such fitting be mounted so that the upper track surface is below the normal deck surface. Small drain holes are permitted.

The following fittings are included: 1. Jib travelers, including bridge type. 2. Mainsheet travelers. 3. Running backstays. 4. Boom vangs (circular type). 5. Boom vangs (dingy type). A semi-circular truncated cone shaped depression is permitted in the deck at the after end of the mast partner slot provided the inside radius is no more than 254 mm and the depth is no more than 51 mm. 6. Hiking vest attachments. 7. Side deck depressions which house cleats for control ropes on both sides of the cockpit.

(b) Raised Portions. The following items are permitted: 1. Mainsheet traveler (outer ends). 2. Backstay tracks (forward ends). 3. Shroud tracks. 4. Vang tracks. 5. Mast partner openings (all around). 6. Spray rails. 7. Cleat mountings. 8. Winch mountings. 9. Turning blocks. 10. Nonskid portions of the deck.

14.1.4. At most two watertight hatches, not larger than 153 clear-opening diameter, and essentially flush, are allowed in the deck. Only one is permitted in the foredeck and one is permitted in the afterdeck. 14.2. Through-hull Bailers and Drains - Optional

14.3. Measurements 14.3.1. Dimensions are to be taken to points defined at the intersections of or fair extensions of the limiting adjacent surfaces or edges. Hull Station 1 is 6401 forward of "T". Hull Station spacing is 686. DIMENSION AT - Distance from Point "T" to extreme forward edge of deck mast opening, (the most forward point to which mast may be moved at deck). Min. 4426, max. 4680. DIMENSION B - Distance from aft extremity of deck (exclusive of molding) to aft side of rudder post at deck. Min. 1143, max. 1194. DIMENSION C - Horizontal distance from aft plumb bob (exclusive of molding) to aft side of rudder post where it emerges from hull bottom. Min. 1272, max. 1329. DIMENSION E - Horizontal distance from aft plumb bob (exclusive of molding) to point on hull bottom which would be intersected by aft edge of keel fin if extended upwards. Min. 2119, max. 2170. DIMENSION OT - Distance from Point "T" to intersection of jibstay with deck. Min. 6610, max. 6712. DIMENSION P - One half width of cockpit. Min. 288, max. 311. DIMENSION R - Length of cockpit. Min. 1949, max. 2064. DIMENSION T - Angle of transom in degrees from aft plumb line. Min. 15E, max. 21E.

14.3.2. KEEL (a) Keel Station 1 is defined as the intersection of the keel bottom plane and the line of the leading edge extended downward. All other keel stations are at 152 intervals from Keel Station 1. (b) Except for Keel Station 1, the maximum width of the bulb at any station shall occur between 76 and 127 above the keel bottom plane. (c) All keel radii, when viewed in profile, shall be as shown on the keel drawing plan plus or minus 33% of the drawing value. (d) All keel bottom radii, when viewed in cross-section, shall be between 19 and 44. (e) No keel waterline, when viewed in plan, shall have a concavity. (f) Drawings for all new keel patterns must be submitted to the Chief Measurer for prior approval. DIMENSION K-1 - The length of the fin at a height 406 above the bottom of the keel. Min. 1143, max. 1169. DIMENSION K-2 - The length of the bulb at a height 102 above the bottom of the keel. Min. 1212, max. 1238. DIMENSION K-3 - The horizontal distance from a plumb bob dropped from a position on hull bottom which would be intersected by aft edge of keel fin to the aft edge of the keel fin at a height of 406 above the bottom of the keel. Min. 32, max. 54. DIMENSION K-4 - Length of keel fin from a point 76 below hull at aft end to a point 76 below hull at forward end. Min. 1349, max. 1375. DIMENSION K-5 - Thickness of keel fin at thickest point. Min. 19, max. 26. Dimension K-6 - Vertical distance from bottom of hull at Station No. 6 to bottom of keel. Min. 762, max. 781. The maximum radius allowed in joining the keel flange to the keel fin, measured in an athwartships plane, is 38. DIMENSION K-7 - Thickness of keel bulb at thickest point. Min. 209, max. 222. DIMENSION K-8 - Maximum height of the bulb from the bottom of the point on the keel to the fin where it just begins to thicken toward a transition with the bulb. Min. 286, max. 311. DIMENSION K-9 - Vertical distance from bottom of hull at aft end of keel to bottom of keel. Min. 800, max. 826. DIMENSION K-10 - The horizontal distance from Keel Station 1 to a plumb line dropped from a position on hull bottom which would be intersected by aft edge of fin keel extended upward. Min. 914, max. 965. DIMENSION K-11 - The breadth of the keel bulb at the point 51 aft of the leading edge at waterline 4. Min. 77, max. 144. DIMENSION K-12 - The breadth of the keel bulb at the point 51 aft of the leading edge at waterline 6. Min. 81, max. 152. DIMENSION K-13 - The breadth of the keel bulb at the point 51 aft of the leading edge at waterline 8. Min. 65, max. 122. DIMENSION K-14 - The height of the keel bulb from the keel bottom in vertical alignment with intersection of aft edge of keel fin at hull bottom. Min. 244, max. 315.

MEASURING THE STAR CLASS BOAT The information in this section is provided by the Technical Advisory Board for those owners, builders, and fleet or regatta measurers wishing to understand the principles of Star Class measurement. Certified Measurers are provided with additional information, and have developed special measuring techniques, so one of them, or the Technical Advisory Board, can provide more detailed information than is presented here, if needed.

PRINCIPLES OF MEASUREMENT Since the construction of a Star must conform to I.S.C.Y.R.A. plans and specifications, and certain construction details require prior approval, the measurement procedure is a series of selected dimensional checks to ascertain that the boat actually conforms to the plans and specifications. Thus, measurement is a verification process, not a detailed physical description of the boat. When a new boat is completed, it is measured by a Certified Measurer. If his data indicate that the boat complies with the plans and specifications, the Technical Advisory Board will grant a Measurement Certificate, and the boat becomes eligible to the Star Class (Rule 33).

Certain measurements are often required for entry in championship and other series, and non-sanctioned events, such as Olympic Regattas, may have special measurement requirements for eligibility (Rule 32). This type of measurement is conducted by appointed regatta measurers or the Technical Advisory Board. While regatta measurement requirements vary, the types of measurement and techniques used are the same as for certification measurement.

There are for main categories of measurement: Measurement of Hull, Keel, Skeg and Rudder Measurement of Spars Measurement of Sails Weighing

In each category, physical data are obtained by the measurer for comparison with allowable maxima and minima.

MEASUREMENT OF HULL, KEEL, SKEG AND RUDDER Many of the Measurements in this category are taken on an imaginary three-dimensional grid whose position is specified. A base plane is established either optically or mechanically in an accurate position relative to the hull, roughly parallel to the waterline, and located a few centimeters below the hull bottom. Various height measurements are taken perpendicular to the base plane; most lengths and breadths are taken parallel to it. For example, "Keel Heights" are perpendicular distances from the base plane of specified points on the hull bottom.

The Star is measured in an upright position, with base plane level and the hull supported on the keel (Spec. 14). Some flexion of the hull occurs due to its own weight in this position, but conditions are equalized for all boats measured. Certain critical keel and rudder post measurements are taken parallel to the base plane, so even if only these appendages are to be measured, an accurate base plane must be established. Measurements called for in the I.S.C.Y.R.A. Regatta Measurement form, on the other hand, do not require the establishment of a base plane.

Rudders are measured by use of a transparent template available from I.S.C.Y.R.A. Since rudder shape controls are referred to the hull, rudders cannot be properly measured off the boat (Drawing "F"). In addition to shape and height limitations, a minimum radius is specified for any curve of the rudder profile. Skeg measurements are described in Spec. 5.4.

Because virtually every radius in the hull, keel, skeg and rudder is controlled, great care should be taken in fairing a Star that all radii remain in compliance with the controls. Radii can be checked with appropriate radius templates.

MEASUREMENT OF SPARS Mast lengths are measured from Point "B", which is a point in the hull, not a point on the mast (Spec. 2). The distance in the hull from the mast step to Point "B" is measured and then transferred to the butt of the mast, and the required heights are checked. In fitting a new mast to a boat, care must be taken that the lower band is not less than the minimum height above Point "B", as well as observing height limits.

Boom length is measured to the forward face, that is, the "bottom" of the luff groove in the mast. It is most convenient to measure this with the boom attached. Care must be taken that the measuring standard reach into the luff groove and touch bottom.

MEASUREMENT OF SAILS Sails are measured to determine compliance with Specifications 12. As well as materials and all dimensions, sails are checked for numbers, insignia and honours, royalty labels, batten pockets, "windows", and all other items specified.

When sails are measured for a championship series or other regatta, and found to comply, they are indelibly and distinctively marked by the measurer. Only sails thus marked may be used in the series.

Drawings are provided in this section to assist in laying out measurement triangles and measuring sails.

Several aspects of the Star are subject to weight control. Sails and parts of the hull, keel and skeg are controlled as to unit weight. Keel, hull and complete boat must meet minimum total weight standards, rigged masts must have a minimum "tip weight" (Spec. 5, 10, 13). Weight of the complete boat and mast tip weight are regularly checked at championship and other series. Yachts are weighed for certification in accordance with Spec. 13.3.

The most desirable scales for these uses are the electronic "load cell" type which give accurate readings with excellent replicability. Various spring and lever types are also used. While scales should be calibrated with test weights to ensure accuracy, the most important characteristic for fairness in regatta weighing is replicability of readings. This should be checked by weighing the same boat, or mast tip, several times before, and, if possible, during the measurement procedure. The scales should give very nearly the same reading at each re-weighing. if differences are noted, the scales should be repaired or replaced. If corrector weights are necessary due to non-compliance with specified minima, the measurer must ensure that these are installed properly and permanently, and weight seals per Spec. 13.3 are in place.

CERTIFICATE The Measurement Certificate is as much an essential part of a Star as a mast or sails (Spec. 1). Since the Certificate is the boat's proof of eligibility for competition at any level, it must always be current as to ownership information, and be kept readily available. Original copies of the Measurement Certificate are maintained, and duplicates are available for $10 USD upon application to I.S.C.Y.R.A.

EXPERIMENTS, PECULIARITIES, AND DISCREPANCIES Technical improvement in the Star have been made during every period of its long history. Most, if not all, are the result of thoughtful experiments by owners seeking to make their boats safer, stronger, and above all, faster. Often such experiments take place in the area of control systems or rigging not limited by the Specifications, in which case measurement procedures are not involved. On the other hand, modifications to areas which are controlled require re-measurement and re-certification before the boat is eligible to compete again at any level. The assistance of the Technical and Technical Advisory Boards is available to owners contemplating such modifications, and should always be sought to ensure continued eligibility.

Some modifications or construction errors may be termed peculiarities in a boat. Spec. 1 and 14 make it clear that such deviations from the standard for a Star are not permitted. Measurers, as well as owners, should be alert for any peculiarity in a boat which might not comply with the intent of the Specifications, and seek the assistance of the Technical and Technical Advisory Boards in determining whether this is the case.

Discrepancies are actual instances of noncompliance with the Plans and Specifications. No boat having a discrepancy is eligible for competition as a Star at any level (Spec 1). Discrepancies should be corrected immediately to avoid any possibility of an ineligible boat being sold as a Star or entered in competition.

In any series the Technical Advisory Board, the Certified Measurers and the Series Measurers are requested to pay attention to possible discrepancies and, in case of evidence, to arrange for adequate correction. In any series, the Technical Advisory Board, the Certified Measurer and the Series Measurer are responsible for the total observance of what is stated in the previous paragraph.

DEFINITIONS Certain terms related to measuring the Star Class Yacht are defined below for assistance in understanding measurement principles:

BASE LINE. A line in the Center Plane having a perpendicular distance from the hull bottom at Station 10 of 390 and at Station 1 of 486. Hull Stations are located on the Base Line by measuring forward from the intersection with a line perpendicular to it which passes through Point "T".

BASE PLANE. A plane perpendicular to the Center Plane, and containing the Base Line.

CENTER PLANE. A plane containing the centerlines of the deck and bottom, the axis of the mast, the center plane of the keel fin, etc.

CHINE POINT. Any point on the curved line defined by the intersection of the extended surface of the side and the extended surface of the bottom. "Chine Heights" are measured from the Base Plane to specified Chine Points; "Chine Half-Breadths" are measured from the Center Plane to specified Chine Points.

JIBSTAY INTERSECTION. The intersection of the line of action of the jibstay in sailing position with the forward surface of the mast.

POINT "B". See Spec. 2. The height of the deck edge is the height of the Sheer Points, and this may be found by supporting a straightedge on the deck at the proper distance from Point "T", measuring form it vertically to the mast step, and subtracting the offset of the straightedge above the Sheer Points.

POINT "T". See Spec. 2.

PROFILE. The shape of a part of the boat, such as rudder or keel, as projected perpendicular to the Center Plane.

SHEER POINT. Any point on the curved line defined by the intersection of the extended surface of the side with the extended surface of the deck. "Side Heights" are measured from the Base Plane to specified Sheer Points; Deck Half-Breadths" are measured from the Center Plane to specified Sheer Points.

TRUE BOTTOM. The actual surface of the hull bottom, or the extended continuation of the arc of the bottom through the keel flange or skeg. "Keel Heights" are taken at specified points on the intersection of the True Bottom with the Center Plane.

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Guide to Laser Sail and Rig Sizes

Over 200,000 Laser sailboats have been built over the last 40 years, more than most other small dinghy sailboats. In this article we are going to answer one of the most common questions we get: What size rig do I have? This will help answer what size sail and/or rig you already have and what size sail and/or rig you need to purchase to update your Laser.

What size rig / sail do I have? Standard vs. Radial vs 4.7 Explained

The Laser sailboat has had a number of different rig sizes, with the intention of making the boat sailable by a wide range of sailors (and different sailor weights) by simply swapping out the lower mast section and sail while keeping all other components the same. There are currently three different rig sizes and they are commonly referred to as 'Standard', 'Radial' and '4.7'. Below you will find an image that shows the three rigs side by side, and in the following section we'll explain each one.

Laser Standard / MK2 / ILCA 7

This is the most common Laser rig size, and the original rig on the boat when it was designed. It features a 7.06 square meter sail (about 76 square feet). In 2018, the Laser Class approved a new 'Standard' sail, which is referred to as the 'MKII' or 'Mark 2' to distinguish it from the first version. The difference, among other things, is in the panels. The original 'Standard' sail featured horizontal cut panels. The new MkII sail has radial cut panels. There is no difference in size between these two versions, and as of 2020 all new Laser Standard sails are available in this updated cut.

How to tell if you have a 'Standard' sail: The first and most obvious way to tell if you have a 'Standard' sail is to look at the panels. If they are horizontal, it is most likely a standard sail. Next, you can measure the luff (the front edge of the sail along the mast sleeve). This measurement should be about 5130 mm or 200 inches from the top of the sail to the bottom.

How to tell if you have a 'Standard' lower mast section: The 'Standard' lower mast section should measure about 2865 mm or 113 inches . It is a fairly stout mast section compared to the two smaller mast sections.

Laser Radial / ILCA 6

Originally called the 'M' rig when first designed, the Laser 'Radial' sail is smaller than the 'Standard' sail at 5.76 square meters (62 square feet). At the time, it was the only Laser sail to feature the radial cut panels, which allowed the sail to be de-powered more easily in bigh winds. Per the notes about the 'Standard' rig above, both the Standard and Radial sail feature the radial cut design. Another typical indicator of a Radial size sail are the blue panels at the tack and clew of the sail.

How to tell if you have a 'Radial' sail: The first and most obvious way to tell if you have a 'Standard' sail is to look at the panels. If they are radial, as in emanating out from the center, it is most likely a radial sail. Next, you can measure the luff (the front edge of the sail along the mast sleeve). This measurement should be about 4560 mm or 180 inches from the top of the sail to the bottom.

How to tell if you have a 'Radial' lower mast section: The 'Radial' lower mast section should measure about 2262 mm or 89 inches . It is also a bit smaller in diameter than the standard section.

Laser 4.7 / ILCA 5

The Laser 4.7 (or ILCA 5) is the smallest of the three Laser sails and was designed for young sailors just getting into Laser sailing. The 4.7 lower mast section is also different from the others in that is has a pre-bend near the boom fitting, allowing the sail to depower much easier. This is the least common Laser sail size, and if you have an old one around, chances are it is not a 4.7 sail.

How to tell if you have a '4.7' sail: The 4.7 is similar to the old 'Standard' sail as it has cross cut panels. Many 4.7 sails also have an obvious 4.7 logo somewhere on the cloth. Next, you can measure the luff (the front edge of the sail along the mast sleeve). This measurement should be about 4080 mm or 160 inches from the top of the sail to the bottom.

How to tell if you have a '4.7' lower mast section: The '4.7 lower mast section has a pre-bend in it and should measure about 1810 mm or 71 inches . The bend is the easiest way to tell it apart from the others.

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The Dali was just starting a 27-day voyage.

The ship had spent two days in Baltimore’s port before setting off.

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The side of a large ship, painted blue, with the words “Dali” and “Singapore,” sitting at a port.

By Claire Moses and Jenny Gross

Published March 26, 2024 Updated March 27, 2024

The Dali was less than 30 minutes into its planned 27-day journey when the ship ran into the Francis Scott Key Bridge on Tuesday.

The ship, which was sailing under the Singaporean flag, was on its way to Sri Lanka and was supposed to arrive there on April 22, according to VesselFinder, a ship tracking website.

The Dali, which is nearly 1,000 feet long, left the Baltimore port around 1 a.m. Eastern on Tuesday. The ship had two pilots onboard, according to a statement by its owners, Grace Ocean Investment. There were 22 crew members on board, the Maritime & Port Authority of Singapore said in a statement. There were no reports of any injuries, Grace Ocean said.

Before heading off on its voyage, the Dali had returned to the United States from Panama on March 19, harboring in New York. It then arrived on Saturday in Baltimore, where it spent two days in the port.

Maersk, the shipping giant, said in a statement on Tuesday that it had chartered the vessel, which was carrying Maersk cargo. No Maersk crew and personnel were onboard, the statement said, adding that the company was monitoring the investigations being carried out by the authorities and by Synergy Group, the company that was operating the vessel.

“We are horrified by what has happened in Baltimore, and our thoughts are with all of those affected,” the Maersk statement said.

The Dali was built in 2015 by the South Korea-based Hyundai Heavy Industries. The following year, the ship was involved in a minor incident when it hit a stone wall at the port of Antwerp . The Dali sustained damage at the time, but no one was injured.

Claire Moses is a reporter for the Express desk in London. More about Claire Moses

Jenny Gross is a reporter for The Times in London covering breaking news and other topics. More about Jenny Gross

What we know about Baltimore’s Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse

The Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore collapsed early Tuesday after being hit by a cargo ship, with large parts of the bridge falling into the Patapsco River.

At least eight people fell into the water, members of a construction crew working on the bridge at the time, officials said. Two were rescued, one uninjured and one in serious condition, and two bodies were recovered on Wednesday. The remaining four are presumed dead. The workers are believed to be the only victims in the disaster.

Here’s what we know so far.

Baltimore bridge collapse

How it happened: Baltimore’s Francis Scott Key Bridge collapsed after being hit by a cargo ship . The container ship lost power shortly before hitting the bridge, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore (D) said. Video shows the bridge collapse in under 40 seconds.

Victims: Divers have recovered the bodies of two construction workers , officials said. They were fathers, husbands and hard workers . A mayday call from the ship prompted first responders to shut down traffic on the four-lane bridge, saving lives.

Economic impact: The collapse of the bridge severed ocean links to the Port of Baltimore, which provides about 20,000 jobs to the area . See how the collapse will disrupt the supply of cars, coal and other goods .

Rebuilding: The bridge, built in the 1970s , will probably take years and cost hundreds of millions of dollars to rebuild , experts said.

Baltimore bridge collapse: Crane arrives at crash site to aid cleanup March 29, 2024 Baltimore bridge collapse: Crane arrives at crash site to aid cleanup March 29, 2024
Officials studied Baltimore bridge risks but didn’t prepare for ship strike March 29, 2024 Officials studied Baltimore bridge risks but didn’t prepare for ship strike March 29, 2024
Baltimore begins massive and dangerous cleanup after bridge collapse March 28, 2024 Baltimore begins massive and dangerous cleanup after bridge collapse March 28, 2024

IMAGES

Laser Sailboat Sail and Rig Sizes
1.3
Masts, Sails & Rigging
Balboa 20 Details
Main Mast And Sail Rigging Diagram
The Only 50 Sailing Terms You'll Need To Know (With Pictures)

VIDEO

Surf Foil Mast Sizes
Successful sailboat mast raising, and a few new additions to my boat
Alacrity Sailboat Mast raising part2
Best mast length for flat water starts and downwinding..?
Raising my Sailboat Mast ON THE WATER!!
Dramatic De-Masting Sailboat Accident

COMMENTS

Average Sailboat Mast Height
The answer varies on rig type, boat size, and design attributes. Small sailboats, under 20 feet in length, rarely have masts taller than 20 ft or shorter than 8 ft. Sailboats between 20 and 30 feet have masts up to 30 feet tall, and large 40+ foot sailboats often have masts that exceed 50 feet in height. In this article, we'll cover the average ...
Sail Boat Masts: The Essential Guide for Smooth Sailing
Masts with elliptical profiles are popular due to their ability to reduce drag effectively and enhance agility on different points of sail compared to round masts. 4. Mast Length: Determining the appropriate length for your sailboat mast depends on several factors like boat size, intended use (racing or cruising), and expected wind conditions ...
Sailboat Mast: Everything You Need To Know
A sailboat mast is a tall pole that is attached to the deck. It helps secure the sail's length to the boat and upholds the sail's structure. A sailboat mast is the most defining characteristic of a sailboat, helping keep the sail in place. What's amazing about it is that it can even be taller than the vessel's length!
Sailboat Mast: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding and Maintaining
A sailboat mast is a vertical pole or spar that supports the sails of a sailboat. It provides structural stability and allows for adjustment of the sail position to effectively harness wind power. Typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber, mast design varies based on boat size, sailing conditions, and intended use.
How Tall Are Sailboat Masts? 9 Examples
Her mainsail's luff length is 28.92 feet, and the foot is 12.45 feet; she is a high-aspect-ratio boat. The Islander 24 has a mast height of 28.82, so it is 2 and 1/2 feet shorter than our Melges. The main's luff length is 25.75 feet, and the foot is 11.52, for a low aspect ratio and much smaller main. The Islander 24 weighs 4,200 pounds ...
Sailboat Mast Guide: Types, Maintenance, and Upgrades
Sailboat masts are the unsung heroes of the sailing world, silently supporting the sails and ensuring a smooth journey across the open waters. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, understanding the intricacies of sailboat masts is essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of ...
Sailing Mast: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding and Choosing the
Short answer: Sailing Mast A sailing mast is a tall vertical spar, typically made of wood or metal, which supports the sails on a sailing vessel. It helps harness wind power to propel the vessel forward by providing a framework for hoisting and controlling sails. Masts vary in size and design depending on the type ... Length and Height:
Mast (sailing)
Mast (sailing) The mast of a sailing vessel is a tall spar, or arrangement of spars, erected more or less vertically on the centre-line of a ship or boat. Its purposes include carrying sails, spars, and derricks, giving necessary height to a navigation light, look-out position, signal yard, control position, radio aerial or signal lamp. [1]
What is a Sailboat Mast? Everything You Need to Know!
Masts are a distinctive feature of sailboats and hold the sails in place. Most masts for modern sailboats are made of aluminum or carbon fiber, while traditional boat masts are made of wood. Masts are usually taller than the boat's length, and the type of mast on sailboats depends on the type of sail plan they support. Parts of the Sailboat Mast
Sailboat Mast Height
From the manual in the chart table, the sailboat mast height above the water line on a Leopard 38 is 19.1 m. That made it safe to proceed. MHHW is the mean higher high water. This is the average height of the high tide during spring tides. Bridges and power wires are marked as such to indicate safe passage at these times.
Sailboat Rig Dimensions Official Website
P = Distance between black bands on the mast, or the maximum luff length of the main. E = Distance between black bands on the boom, or the maximum foot length of the main; ... Jigger-mast - the fourth mast; The rigging mast of a sailboat is a tall vertical pole which supports the sails. Bigger ships could have several masts.
Sailboat Mast Height Calculator
The mast height on a 50-foot sailboat can vary depending on the specific model and design. As a rough estimate, the mast height of a 50-foot sailboat might be around 60 to 70 feet (18 to 21 meters) above the waterline. How do you measure a sailboat mast? To measure a sailboat mast, you can use a measuring tape or a halyard with markings.
Sailboat Parts Explained: Illustrated Guide (with Diagrams)
The mast is the long, standing pole holding the sails. It is typically placed just off-center of a sailboat (a little bit to the front) and gives the sailboat its characteristic shape. The mast is crucial for any sailboat: without a mast, any sailboat would become just a regular boat. The Sails. I think this segment speaks mostly for itself.
What Is A Sailboat Mast?
A sailboat mast is one of the most defining features of a sailboat (along with the sails of course!) ... Spreaders: Spreaders are horizontal bars attached to the mast, typically positioned at specific intervals along its length. They help support the rigging wires and prevent excessive sideways bending of the mast. The position and angle of the ...
Understanding Sailboat Design Ratios
Masts & Spars; Knots, Bends & Hitches; Sailboat Systems. The 12v Energy Equation; ... The Displacement/Length Ratio. D/L Ratio = D/(0.01L) 3. Where D is the boat displacement in tons (1 ton = 2,240lb), and L is the waterline length in feet. ... This Sailboat Design Ratio Calculator and eBooklet comes with a No-Quibble Guarantee!
Sailing Terms: Sailboat Types, Rigs, Uses, and Definitions
May 10, 2021. Sailboats are powered by sails using the force of the wind. They are also referred to as sailing dinghies, boats, and yachts, depending on their size. Sailboats range in size, from lightweight dinghies like the Optimist dinghy (7'9") all the way up to mega yachts over 200 feet long. The length is often abbreviated as LOA (length ...
Mast Measurements
Mast 7.2.1 The mast may be stepped on the deck or into the hull. With the mast spar perpendicular to the base line, the after side at deck level shall not be less than 3048mm and not more than 3202mm forward of Station 11. The mast spar may be fixed or rotating. No dimension
Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Perfect Mast
Short answer sailboat masts: Sailboat masts are vertical structures that support the sails on a sailboat. Typically made of aluminum, wood, or carbon fiber, masts vary in length and design depending on the type and size of the boat. They play a crucial role in providing stability and transferring wind energy to propel the sailboat
Understanding Sail Dimensions and Sail Area Calculation
It's still a simple calculation though, once you know the length of the luff perpendicular (LP), the sail area is:~ Area = (luff x luff perpendicular)/2, or. Area = (L x LP)/2, where:~ 'L' is the distance along the forestay from the headstay pin to the front of the mast, and 'LP' is the shortest distance between the clew and the luff of the genoa.
Specifications
Sails and parts of the hull, keel and skeg are controlled as to unit weight. Keel, hull and complete boat must meet minimum total weight standards, rigged masts must have a minimum "tip weight" (Spec. 5, 10, 13). Weight of the complete boat and mast tip weight are regularly checked at championship and other series.
Laser Sailboat Sail and Rig Sizes
This measurement should be about 5130 mm or 200 inches from the top of the sail to the bottom. How to tell if you have a 'Standard' lower mast section: The 'Standard' lower mast section should measure about 2865 mm or 113 inches. It is a fairly stout mast section compared to the two smaller mast sections. Laser Radial / ILCA 6.
TOPPER
Mast Height from DWL: 17.00 ft / 5.18 m: Sailboat Links. Designers: Ian Proctor: Builders: Topper International ... It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a ...
Engineers Raise Questions About Bridge's Construction as Inquiry Begins
The structure collapsed when a cargo ship hit a pier, bringing down part of the main span and killing 35 people. Seven years later, a shrimp boat hit a bumper erected on the bridge built to ...
Dali Ship That Hit Key Bridge Was Destined for Sri Lanka
The Dali was less than 30 minutes into its planned 27-day journey when the ship ran into the Francis Scott Key Bridge on Tuesday.. The ship, which was sailing under the Singaporean flag, was on ...
What we know about Baltimore's Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse
The bodies of two victims have been recovered from the waters of the Patapsco River. The bridge collapsed after being hit by a cargo ship.
The key factors that led to the Baltimore bridge collapse
An aerial view shows the scene of a bridge collapse after a vessel struck the Francis Scott Key bridge in Baltimore on March 26.

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Average Mast Height by Sailboat Length

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Average Mast Height of Multi-Masted Sailboats

What Sailboat Rigs Have Tall Masts?

What Sailboat Rigs Have Short Masts?

Are Shorter Masts Stronger?

What are Masts Made Of?

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