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Powerful and high-quality sailboat winches are important for the types of high loads encountered on sheets, guys, halyards and other control lines. On larger boats, the ideal winch will help you reel in a line and increase tension, saving your arms for other tasks. Plain top sailboat winches will require you to tail the loose end to keep tension on your turns while operating the winch. Self-tailing winches free up the hand from the loose end of the rope and facilitating better handling of the winch and winch handle. Electrical winches are available as a solution to short-handed or overpowered sailing. Winches are sold based on material as well, whether you want the lightweight of an aluminum winch, an appealing chrome sailboat winch or if you are looking for the visual aesthetic of a stainless steel yacht winch. Technical assistance is provided to help you select the perfect primary genoa winches, secondary winches, halyard winches or specialty winches for racing or cruising.
Replacing old Sailboat Winches When replacing an old sailboat winch, the new winch doesn't need to have the same specifications as the old one. It is recommended to select a replacement winch that is similar in size and has at least the same power ratio as your old winch. Also, consider whether your old winch had sufficient power to bring your sails to full trim or hoist with a reasonable amount of effort. Many older boats used winches that are underspecified by today's standards and in many cases, it can be beneficial to upgrade a winch to a more powerful size instead of just replacing your boat's old winch. Another consideration to remember is that in many cases Meissner, Barient and Barlow winches did not use the same numbering scheme as modern Harken anderson and Lewmar winches. In the case of Harken anderson and Lewmar winch the number of a winch is prominently the power ratio of that winch. So for example an old Harken 44.2 winch had a power ratio of 44 and a Harken Radial 46.2 Self-tailing winch has a power ratio of 46.5.
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3 Ways to Convert Your Winches to Self-Tailing
Self-tailing winches are a great upgrade - but expensive. Luckily, there are a couple of budget ways to create your own self-tailing winches.
How to convert your winches to self-tailing? There are three ways to do it. The simplest and most cost-effective way to convert your winches is by installing 'winchers'. These are simple rubbers that hold the rope for you. You could also use a winch conversion kit like Winchmate. Or you could replace the winches by self-tailing ones.
I prefer the first option. The winchers are easy to install. But make sure you get the right size because otherwise it won't work and the installation can get frustrating. The conversion kit is also a solid way to do it if you have the cash. The last option is A LOT more expensive, and I don't think it's worth the investment.
On this page:
Different ways to get self-tailing winches, pros and cons of barton winchers, how to get the right size, how to install, related questions.
What is a Self-Tailing Winch? Winches are used to haul in the lines. A self-tailing winch holds the line in place for you. This way, you don't have to hold the line when you're turning the winch. You also don't need an extra pair of hands for pulling the line. So self-tailing winches are the perfect solution for solo sailors.
A regular self-tailing winch has a feeder arm which 'feeds' the line to the top of the winch. The top drum has a sort of jaw. The line goes into the jaw, which holds the line for you.
There are basically three ways to convert your winches.
- Barton winchers (click to check the price on Amazon ) - this is your best buy and budget option
- Winchmate conversion kit (click to check their website ) - I really like this product, but it's a bit more expensive
- winch replacement (click to check the price on Amazon ) - this isn't really an option for me (too expensive)
Winchers are simple rubber conversion rings. You install them on your current winches, which means you don't have to do an expensive replacement. They're inexpensive. Installation can be a bit of a pain but shouldn't be too difficult. I'll explain more on this option and how to install them later on.
The Winchmate conversion kit can help you to properly convert your winches. This kit includes an entire new top drum, including the feeding arm. Converting your winch this way creates a true self-tailing winch, ensuring you are in control of your lines.
Replacement is the best way to get self-tailing winches, but also the most expensive. I think you didn't come here looking for the obvious, so I'll leave it at that. If you want to have a cheap alternative, read on.
Why I Chose for Barton Marine's Winchers
I like the Barton Marine winchers the most because it's the simplest and most universal way of converting. Their winchers fit most winches. It's the KISS (sweet and simple) method. I always go for the KISS way.
It's the cheapest by far and works well enough for me (I'm not doing any ocean passages any time soon).
However, if you want a lifetime solution, check out Winchmate. Their conversion kits are pretty neat as well. You get the entire top part of the winch, so installation is a piece of cake. I guess this is also a good option. Tech specs are better than rubber winchers:
- has a line lifter/feeder arm
- aluminum line jaws instead of rubber
- installation is (if possible) even easier - 20 - 30 minutes
- you get a true self-tailing winch
The only disadvantage I can think of is that the investment doesn't get you a new winch, which means the Winchmate will only last you as long as your winch.
There are a couple of things to consider here. First, let's take a look at the pros:
- It's cheap - a pair of winchers probably cost under a $100 (for both sides). A pair of new self-tailing winches (A-brand) will cost you about 20-30 times that amount!
- The conversion is pretty easy to do
- They work fine
- They last you long enough - roughly about at least 5-10 years
If you're thinking: how will a rubber disc ever hold up? They hold up just fine. I've even read some accounts of a 12-ton sloop that uses these, and mid-sized yachts with heavy sails. All without any trouble whatsoever.
The biggest disadvantage is that the entire winch must be stacked with line for self-tailing to work. The wincher grips the line with the rubber underside of the wincher. So if the line doesn't reach all the way up to the underside of the wincher, it doesn't work. In practice, this doesn't cause trouble.
Winches don't have a feeder arm which controls the line. So it's a bit less secure, and you have to make sure the rubber jaw grips the line properly. But in my opinion, this isn't a real problem. I don't know of anybody that had a problem with the jaws not holding the line.
I've heard of someone that had a problem with the fit of the wincher - it slipped on the winch. But for most people they fit just fine and don't slip at all - even with larger winches. I suggest dry fitting the rubbers before actually installing them - you can always return them and get a more expensive solution.
The Barton Marine winchers fit standard-sized winches - so most, but not all.
They come in four universal sizes: small, medium, large, and x-large.
To get the right size, check the technical specs of your winch and look for the drum diameter. Then, choose the right wincher size from the table below:
This info comes directly from the Barton Marine website.
The larger the drum diameter for that particular size, the tighter it will be. Which is a nuisance for installation, and a good thing for the grip.
For installation, you need a flat-headed screwdriver and a Philips screwdriver.
- Soak the wincher in hot water with washing up soap. This softens them up. You have to be able to stretch them just enough to put them over the top of the winch.
- Undo the top disc of the winch, and remove the screws. Then, take off the entire top drum.
- Slide over the wincher. It can be an incredibly tight fit. Like all rubber parts, you'll probably wonder whether you've ordered the right size. But hey, the tighter it is now, the firmer it will stay in place later.
- Replace the top drum. Then, flip the top rubber edge over the top of the drum by running a screwdriver around the edge (a bit like placing a bicycle tire).
If you are more of a visual person, here's a good video that shows you how it's done. The audio is a bit windy but it gets better later on.
What does a self-tailing winch do? A self-tailing winch holds the line in place by itself. This means you don't need to hold the line while you're turning the winch, or need an extra pair of hands for pulling the line. Because of this, a self-tailing winch allows you to sail short-handed (solo).
What's the top groove on a wincher for? The top groove on a rubber wincher is called the jaw, and it's simply used to cleat the line. You don't need to use it when you're hauling in line. You may also use your original cleats. However, some people find it handy to use this rubber cleat on top of the winch.
As you live in The Netherlands, did you ever see a solution for the Dutch Enkes winches?
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She Wanted an R.V. He Wanted a Sailboat. This Was Their Compromise.
Instead of rolling down roads, their motorboat floats down rivers — and it’s as cozy as a woodland cabin. Think of it as a floating R.V.
A Motorboat as Cozy as a Woodland Cabin
View Slide Show ›
By Tim McKeough
Victoria Sass, an interior designer in Minneapolis, had long dreamed of owning an R.V. so she and her family could hit the open road with their living quarters attached.
“I grew up in Santa Cruz, California, with a Volkswagen van,” said Ms. Sass, 40, who had fond memories of traveling with her family in their mobile vacation home. She wanted her husband, Torben Rytt, and their three children, Duncan, 3, Irene, 8, and Walter, 13, to enjoy the same experience.
Mr. Rytt, who grew up outside Copenhagen, had other ideas: He wanted a sailboat.
“I’m from a boating family,” said Mr. Rytt, 45, a consultant for Nordic technology companies. “My parents met at a boat show, and we’ve owned boats since I was an infant. Every summer, we’d go sailing for five or six weeks.”
Mr. Rytt had no interest in an R.V.; Ms. Sass had no interest in a sailboat.
So Mr. Rytt offered a compromise: What if they bought a motorboat with a large cabin that held a kitchen, bathroom and sleeping quarters?
Think of it as an R.V. that just happens to float down rivers, he suggested, instead of rolling along roads.
Ms. Sass, who runs the design firm Prospect Refuge Studio , liked the idea, as long as she could customize the interior to make it as cozy as a woodland cabin.
It didn’t take long for Mr. Rytt to find their project boat: a 44-foot-long vessel from 1983 in nearby Red Wing, Minn., with a tiny kitchen, bathroom, bedroom and bunk room that needed some maintenance and love.
They bought it for $100,000 at the end of 2020 and moved it to their planned docking spot on the St. Croix River. The following spring, Mr. Rytt began taking lessons to learn how to pilot the boat, and they began their work to transform it.
They had the exterior of the boat repainted, changing it from maroon to sky-blue and white. They replaced the worn black awnings with new blue ones. Below deck, they tore out the grungy carpet, and Mr. Rytt spent an entire summer installing a new teak parquet floor. (There was existing teak wall paneling and cabinetry that they liked, so they cleaned and oiled the wood to refresh it.)
The more they worked, the more they realized that in such a compact space there was a reason for everything.
“Every picture and mirror on the wall was actually an access panel to something mechanical,” Ms. Sass said. “So if you replace something, it has to be replaced with something of the exact same size, which can be frustrating. It’s like every piece of trim is interconnected. Even the wallpaper is integral to the boat.”
Nevertheless, she was adamant about replacing the art on the walls. She was more flexible in the bathroom, where she kept the existing wallcovering, but recruited Kelsi Sharp, a graphic designer and sign painter, to give it tidy maroon-and-blue stripes.
For the kitchen, she worked with Kristen Falkirk to produce handmade black and mint-green ceramic tiles to resurface the counter and backsplash, giving the space a little wabi-sabi appeal.
For lighting, Ms. Sass mixed Danish nautical lights with a few designer favorites, including Rotonde X ceiling lamps with fabric shades from Roman and Williams Guild, which she mounted in the living room.
To furnish the boat, she mixed upscale pieces with budget finds, blasting everything with color and pattern. In the living room, she covered an Ikea sectional sleeper sofa with blankets from OddBird, piling on patterned pillows from Caravane, Goodee and St. Frank. For the floor, she bought a cushy wool rug from Beni Rugs.
“It’s super shaggy, which is totally impractical for a boat,” she said. “But I just think it’s fun.”
Because they were limited to working on the boat only in warmer months, it took three years to complete the overhaul, at a cost of about $250,000. They rechristened their vessel Freya, a play on the name of the Norse goddess Freyja that they hope is easier for non-Scandinavians to pronounce.
Now they use the boat not only on weekends, but also for multiweek voyages on the Mississippi River, traveling between river towns. It’s not quite the same as seeing sights from an R.V., but the whole family has fallen in love with life on the water. “Some days we just anchor out in the river, to get away from it all,” Ms. Sass said.
She no longer yearns for an R.V., and Mr. Rytt has abandoned all thoughts of a sailboat.
“The funny thing is that I actually prefer this over a sailboat,” he said. “It’s one of those things I don’t think I can ever get enough of. I could spend an infinite amount of time on this boat.”
Living Small is a biweekly column exploring what it takes to lead a simpler, more sustainable or more compact life.
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The State of Real Estate
Whether you’re renting, buying or selling, here’s a look at real estate trends..
Charter schools are popping up in struggling malls as landlords look for alternative tenants and communities seek to increase educational opportunities.
As housing costs soar, Washington State wants to limit annual rent increases to 7%. The move is part of a wider trend to impose statewide rent caps .
Developers across the United States are transforming clusters of old homes into micro restaurants to cater to the needs of surrounding neighborhoods.
Smaller houses in subdivisions and exurbs are turning into a popular option for people hoping to hold on to ownership in an increasingly expensive U.S. housing market.
Frequent natural disasters and high inflation have led home insurers to raise their premiums. That is forcing many customers to pare back their policies .
Black people make up about 14% of the American population. Some of them, wondering what it would be like to be part of a majority, are finding new homes in Africa .
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Mailport: Charley Morgan, Locker Safety, Fast Bottom Paint
Rebuilding a Cape Dory 36 Part V
Do-it-yourself Electrical System Survey and Inspection
Install a Standalone Sounder Without Drilling
The Tricked Out Tillerpilot
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The Cruising Sailor’s Argument for High-tech Fibers
SNADs: Snaps Without Screws
Rudder Mods for Low-speed Docking
Using Heat to Bend PVC Pipe
Powering Your Boat Through a Storm
Can We Trust Plastic Boat Parts?
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Mailport: Marine plywood, fuel additives, through bolt options, winch handle holders
Random Orbit Sanders for Bottom Paint Prep
Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions
Cockpit Drains on Race Boats
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PS Advisor: Acid Cleaning Potable Water Systems
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PS Advisor: Tank Monitor and Camera Mount Hacks
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Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits
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Simple Tips on Servicing Your Sailboat Winches
Finally a boat project just made for steampunk fans and wannabe watchmakers..
We continue to knock down the list of boat projects in anticipation of launch day in the northern hemisphere summer (yes, Florida and Caribbean sailors, we know you sail year -round, so rub it in). This week we’re moving onto hardware, winches in particular. If you haven’t serviced your winches in a couple years, or you notice squeaks, groans or slips as you grind, it is high time to tackle this project. We like to inspect our jib-sheet winches every year, but we sail our boats hard and they are exposed to some pretty harsh freeze and thaw cycles.
Fortunately, winch servicing is a pretty easy, and for the wanna-be watchmaker who marvels at moving parts, it’s fun—until you start dropping parts overboard. Thus, our first bit of advice: make sure you have the right winch servicing kit, including pawls and springs, before you start pulling your winches apart. Not only will you be happy you did this when a precious pawl springs start bounces down your cockpit drain (cover them before disassembly!), you will need the kit to determine the level of wear in your existing pawls. (Pawls are the essential, spring-loaded stops that prevent a winch from rotating backward—see image above.)
While using the right winch grease is important, servicing the winch before the grease turns to gum, washes out, or the pawls start to hang up is more important. Makers recommend annual servicing, but racers and full-time cruisers may go one to three years, and weekend sailors might stretch it a bit further. Three years really would be the max, unless you can live with increased wear. If you go any longer, you risk increased wear and even damage. If the pawls hang up and the drum releases, parts can break, and people can get hurt as the winch handle whips around.
Here is a quick review of the basics of winch servicing. Most major manufacturers offer handy videos and guides like this Harken winch servicing video that can help guide the project. We highly recommend you refer to those before taking apart your winch:
1. Read the instructions. Most winches come apart by loosening a single screw or removing a clip, with little risk of losing important parts. If in doubt, tape a cardboard box around the winch to catch any strays; the caged bearings can stick to the drum and fall out when it is removed. Note the orientation of the line stripper. Move the parts to a safe work area.
2. Work on one winch at a time, and double check that you have the right service kit for each one. Seemingly identical winches that were manufactured just a few years apart in age can have significantly different parts.
3. When disassembling the winch, keep track of the order you take things apart in; a phone camera can be helpful for this. Specifically, watch out for the pawls and pawl springs. If you are working on the boat, a cafeteria tray (or similar) is very handy.
4. Degrease the winch parts with mineral spirits. A paintbrush, tooth brush, and lots of rags are helpful.
5. Replace the pawls and springs if they have seen more than a few rebuilds, if they seem worn, or if the motion is not crisp. These are lubricated with pawl oil, not grease, since grease can thicken and cause them to hang up. A manufacturers winch-servicing kit may contain special oil, but motor oil works well, too. A past Practical Sailor test highlighted several pawl oils for penny pinchers .
6. Grease all of the gears and bearings before assembly. They don’t need to be generously packed the way vehicle bearings are, since excess can run down into the pawls; they just need to be lightly coated with good surface coverage. Wipe a very thin coat of grease on all internal parts to prevent corrosion. Sure, you can run out to your local chandlery and shell out a dozen clams for that fancy-brand winch grease that the maker insists is best for the job. But you could also do a little research, or check out our report on budget priced winch greases , and learn that in the wide, wide world of lubricants there’s probably half a dozen products that will do the job just as well, if not better, than some brand-name greases.
7. When reassembling the winch, be certain to face the line stripper in the correct direction. Ideally, the line should spill off of the stripper and drop right into the cockpit.
8. Add canvas winch covers. Many people think that winches don’t need protection, but most self-tailing winches have plastic components that are vulnerable to ultraviolet rays. Covers should help prevent lubes and greases from washing out, and we know they will protect vulnerable plastic parts.
If you think you are in need of new winches, or have questions about how winch performance is impacted when you upgrade to halyards or sheets that incorporate high-tech fibers like Dyneema, be sure to check out the upcoming March issue of Practical Sailor. In that issue we look at simple measures you can take to make sure you are getting the maximum performance out of your existing winches without spending a fortune on new ones.
If you are married to the idea of upgrading your winches, Practical Sailor’s most recent winch test evaluates the major brands on the market today, and looks at some innovative new features. Although a few newer models have been introduced since that report, winch designs evolve slowly, so most of the observations from that test are still valid today.
Finally, if you are looking at completely updating your sail handling gear—travelers, genoa tracks, boom vangs, etc.—to accommodate new sails, Volume Two of our sail buying guide “ A Look at Sails ” provides the essential information you’ll need when deciding which products will best meet your needs—whether you are cruising, racing, or doing a little of both.
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I degrease with kerosine, it’s less volatile and a bit easier on the hands than mineral spirits.
I prefer to take my winches off and service my winches in my home workshop. I try to service them in the off season when my boat is on the hard.
When overhauling a winch that can’t be easily removed and must be rebuilt in place, I start with a small cardboard box about 16″ x 16″ x 6″ or so.
I cut a hole in the middle of the box the diameter of the winch, place the box over the winch and tape it in position.
Then when a pawl falls out, as it often does, or a spring flies out, as it usually does, there’s a good chance the box will catch it.
I’ll also note that overhaul time is a good opportunity to examine the installation of the winch. They are not symmetrical devices, and there is a correct rotational orientation for placement. This is a good time to check it and correct it.
I’ve found the hardest part is the initial clean, particularly if it is the first time servicing a new-to-me boat. Being light on grease application also helps minimize cleanup on the next service. WD40 is another alternative for removing tough grease and dirt. Doing the clean up in a paint roller tray helps drain and dry parts. Take pictures during disassembly as some winches can be a puzzle to put back together! I’ll second the advice for taking a look at winch installation as I’ve learned at least for Harkin winches the orientation of line entry and gear placement is important for proper operation.
I do my winches every two years when the boat is on the hard. It is easier to chase loose parts that way. Use a blanket or sheet to line your deck and lifelines for containment. I use diesel to degrease and two buckets. I disassmble one winch and put all the parts in a bucket. My wife degreases them with a parts brush (Auto store) and while she is doing one winch, I am doing the next winch in the second bucket. we swap buckets and so goes the process… I have 11 whinches to do. Harken springs fit most winch pawls. I tried gasoline once but the residue was not compatable with my grease. I have used Harkin, Anderson and Lewmar winch grease and that is the order I like them in. There are others, but heat and seawater are the enemies and for the effort I try and get the best grease I can.
After about 40 years of doing winch maintenance, I got smart. I bought an inexpensive parts washer online and use it to degrease the parts. I use Zep 505 degreaser and a brush attachment on the parts washer. A dunk in fresh water to rinse then Lewmar grease and their pawl oil. I have 17 winches that I do annually. Saves a bunch of time.
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Jet Aviation Moscow Vnukovo gets EASA approval for Falcon 900EX EASy
Jet Aviation Moscow Vnukovo has received EASA Part-145 approval for Dassault Falcon 900EX EASy aircraft, authorizing it to provide line maintenance to the aircraft.
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Izzy has been part of the Business Jet Interiors International team since its second issue, and the editor since 2011. She also edits Auditoria and Railway Interiors International. Outside of work, Izzy is rediscovering her love of art by learning how to paint with watercolors.
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Mikoyan Gurevich MiG 3 172IAP For the Party of Bolsheviks with Nikolai Sheyenko May 1942 01
National origin:- Soviet Union Role:- Fighter Interceptor Manufacturer:- Mikoyan-Gurevich Designer:- First flight:- 29th October 1940 Introduction:- 1941 Status:- Retired 1945 Produced:- 1940-1941 Number built:- 3,422 Primary users:- Soviet Air Forces (VVS); Soviet Air Defence Forces (PVO); Soviet Naval Aviation Developed from:- Mikoyan-Gurevich MiG-1 Variants:- Mikoyan-Gurevich I-211 Operational history MiG-3s were delivered to frontline fighter regiments beginning in the spring of 1941 and were a handful for pilots accustomed to the lower-performance and docile Polikarpov I-152 and I-153 biplanes and the Polikarpov I-16 monoplane. It remained tricky and demanding to fly even after the extensive improvements made over the MiG-1. Many fighter regiments had not kept pace in training pilots to handle the MiG and the rapid pace of deliveries resulted in many units having more MiGs than trained pilots during the German invasion. By 1 June 1941, 1,029 MIG-3s were on strength, but there were only 494 trained pilots. In contrast to the untrained pilots of the 31st Fighter Regiment, those of the 4th Fighter Regiment were able to claim three German high-altitude reconnaissance aircraft shot down before war broke out in June 1941. However high-altitude combat of this sort was to prove to be uncommon on the Eastern Front where most air-to-air engagements were at altitudes well below 5,000 metres (16,000 ft). At these altitudes the MiG-3 was outclassed by the Bf 109 in all respects, and even by other new Soviet fighters such as the Yakovlev Yak-1. Furthermore, the shortage of ground-attack aircraft in 1941 forced it into that role as well, for which it was totally unsuited. Pilot Alexander E. Shvarev recalled: "The Mig was perfect at altitudes of 4,000 m and above. But at lower altitudes it was, as they say, 'a cow'. That was the first weakness. The second was its armament: weapons failure dogged this aircraft. The third weakness was its gunsights, which were inaccurate: that's why we closed in as much as we could and fired point blank." On 22 June 1941, most MiG-3s and MiG-1s were in the border military districts of the Soviet Union. The Leningrad Military District had 164, 135 were in the Baltic Military District, 233 in the Western Special Military District, 190 in the Kiev Military District and 195 in the Odessa Military District for a total of 917 on hand, of which only 81 were non-operational. An additional 64 MiGs were assigned to Naval Aviation, 38 in the Air Force of the Baltic Fleet and 26 in the Air Force of the Black Sea Fleet. The 4th and 55th Fighter Regiments had most of the MiG-3s assigned to the Odessa Military District and their experiences on the first day of the war may be taken as typical. The 4th, an experienced unit, shot down a Romanian Bristol Blenheim reconnaissance bomber, confirmed by postwar research, and lost one aircraft which crashed into an obstacle on takeoff. The 55th was much less experienced with the MiG-3 and claimed three aircraft shot down, although recent research confirms only one German Henschel Hs 126 was 40% damaged, and suffered three pilots killed and nine aircraft lost. The most unusual case was the pair of MiG-3s dispatched from the 55th on a reconnaissance mission to PloieÅŸti that failed to properly calculate their fuel consumption and both were forced to land when they ran out of fuel. Most of the MiG-3s assigned to the interior military districts were transferred to the PVO where their lack of performance at low altitudes was not so important. On 10 July 299 were assigned to the PVO, the bulk of them belonging to the 6th PVO Corps at Moscow, while only 293 remained with the VVS, and 60 with the Naval Air Forces, a total of only 652 despite deliveries of several hundred aircraft. By 1 October, on the eve of the German offensive towards Moscow codenamed Operation Typhoon, only 257 were assigned to VVS units, 209 to the PVO, and 46 to the Navy, a total of only 512, a decrease of 140 fighters since 10 July, despite deliveries of over a thousand aircraft in the intervening period. By 5 December, the start of the Soviet counter-offensive that drove the Germans back from the gates of Moscow, the Navy had 33 MiGs on hand, the VVS 210, and the PVO 309. This was a total of 552, an increase of only 40 aircraft from 1 October. Over the winter of 1941-42 the Soviets transferred all of the remaining MiG-3s to the Navy and PVO so that on 1 May 1942 none were left on strength with the VVS. By 1 May 1942, Naval Aviation had 37 MiGs on strength, while the PVO had 323 on hand on 10 May. By 1 June 1944, the Navy had transferred all its aircraft to the PVO, which reported only 17 on its own strength, and all of those were gone by 1 January 1945. Undoubtedly more remained in training units and the like, but none were assigned to combat units by then.
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Placement of halyard winches on Yam 25 cabin top
- Thread starter alturaam
- Start date Jun 12, 2013
- Brand-Specific Forums
Can any of you felow Yamaha 25 owners explain why the halyard winches on the cabin top (both port and starvboard) are located FORWARD of the jam cleats and not BEHIND? It is not the best sequence to hoist the jib or main using the small winch, only to unwind it and then jam it into the cleat. My J-22 race skipper recommended that I move these small winches forward and move the cleats aft. I just want to get your thoughts on the stock, original arrangement and how it might work for you all.
yes , they are not in a right position, I removed the winch and make the work easy. I don't use the spinnaker very often , so it is ok for me . Besides , the space is a bit tight to accommodate the jam cleats and the winch together .
Halyard technique I too thought the arrangement of V-cleats strange when I first got my boat. I've installed a small rope jam (Ronstan 1387) forward of the winch to help with raising the main. I generally don't multi-task the winches I leave the halyards on the winch. As I have a roller furler the Headsail is always on the winch. Learning to trust the V-cleats takes some time. The trick is to toss all your tails down the companion way. The lay of the line ensures they won't release from the cleat. Surprisingly I've never had one come loose.
Mine were re-fitted with spinlocks/clutches before the winches, they work just fine!
Thanks all. I wasn't alone in thinking that the winches and/or cleats seemed to be sub optimally located. A cleat or spinlock/clutch forward of the winch is a fine idea and better than moving the whole winch.