can you use yacht varnish on plywood

What Varnish to Use on Plywood: The Ultimate Guide

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Plywood can be made of many different types of wood, but the most common is still softwoods. Harder woods are more expensive and they don’t last as long. When you buy plywood at the store, it will come with some sort of sealant on it already; this will keep your new project from getting water damage before you even start building with it! But what varnish should you use on plywood?

Oil-based varnish is a good choice for plywood since it penetrates into the wood giving it a durable and aesthetically-pleasing look.

Types of Varnish

When it comes to choosing a varnish for plywood, there are several options available, each with its unique properties and benefits. Here are the most common types of varnish to consider:

Polyurethane Varnish: Polyurethane varnish is a popular finish known for its enduring strength and resilience to damage. It is proposed in two types, water-based or oil-based styles. Water-bound polyurethane has simple clean-up properties and dries rapidly, perfect for interior applications. Oil-primed polyurethane creates an ultra-sturdy coating that resists scratches and dents well; hence making it ideal for use outdoors. Additionally, this type of coat can impart an inviting natural amber color to the wood’s surface as well.

Spar Varnish: Protect all of your outdoor projects with Spar Varnish. Specifically formulated to shield against sunlight, saltwater, and other extreme conditions, this varnish is ideal for boats, decks, or any project exposed to the elements. Available in both oil-based and water-based formulations; Spar Varnish keeps you covered no matter what Mother Nature throws at you.

Water-Based Varnish: DIY projects are made simpler with this particular type of varnish, which is a top choice due to its ease of use and cleanup. It dries quickly without leaving behind strong odors, making it perfect for indoor applications. Although not as durable as oil-based versions, it may be applied in multiple coats to provide the same degree of protection.

Oil-Based Varnish: For a hard, durable finish that will stand up to wear and tear in high-traffic areas like stairs or floors, oil-based varnish provides an ideal solution. Not only does it protect the wood but also adds a rich amber hue. The tradeoff is its strong fumes and longer drying time than water-based varnishes.

Epoxy Varnish: An epoxy varnish is a two-part system that offers an impervious coating. It’s perfect for outdoor furniture, boats, and any other location exposed to humid conditions. After it dries, this type of varnish will give wood a beautiful glossy finish while preserving its natural beauty at the same time. Plus, you can be sure your surfaces are protected from water and chemicals.

UV-Resistant Varnish: This particular varnish offers a unique level of protection from the sun’s UV rays, thus making it ideal for outdoor applications such as furniture or decks. Whether you prefer water-based or oil-based formulas, this type of varnish will provide your project with an outstanding glossy finish that won’t fade away due to exposure to sunlight.

Uses of Plywood

Plywood is a popular choice of material in construction, woodworking, and crafting. It has a wide range of applications and can be used in many different ways. Here are 8 common uses of plywood:

Furniture making

Plywood is the ideal material for constructing furniture due to its strength and resilience. Whether you’re creating chairs, tables, or bed frames, plywood can be quickly customized to fit any design – making it incredibly versatile! Furthermore, compared with solid wood options, this type of timber is significantly more cost-effective which makes it a great option for budget-conscious buyers.

Cabinetry and millwork

Plywood is an economical way to make your cabinetry, millwork, and built-in storage units look like the real deal. This versatile material can be veneered in practically any wood species, enabling you to work around almost any design aesthetic. Plus, thanks to its cost-effectiveness compared to solid wood, plywood offers a great bang for your buck.

Plywood is the ideal choice for subflooring because of its strength, longevity, and resilience to moisture. With it as your base layer, you can then apply a variety of floor materials such as carpeting, tiling, or hardwood with confidence knowing that your floors will be secure and last for years!

Wall paneling

Plywood is an ideal wall paneling material that can be transformed to suit any room with the right paint or stain. Whether you want a modern, contemporary look or something more rustic and natural, plywood paneling offers endless possibilities to create unique decor for your space.

Roofing and subflooring

Plywood is a popular choice for roofing and subflooring due to its strength, durability, and versatility. It can be easily cut into any size or shape required for installation, making it an ideal material for roof construction. Additionally, plywood’s moisture resistance ensures that it will withstand the elements over time when used as subflooring in both residential and commercial buildings.

Outdoor projects

Plywood is an invaluable material for any outdoor project, from decks and pergolas to sheds. To protect its integrity against moisture damage, it can be treated with water-resistant chemicals, ensuring a long-lasting structure.

Marine applications

Constructing boats and other watercraft requires sturdy, reliable materials like marine-grade plywood that has been designed to be resistant to moisture for a longer-lasting structure. Perfect for withstanding the intense environmental conditions of the ocean, this type of wood provides both durability and reliability when constructing vessels.

Artistic uses

Plywood can be used for artistic and creative projects such as sculptures, murals, and installations. Plywood can be easily cut and shaped to fit any design, making it a versatile material for artists and designers.

RELATED: Top 5 Best Varnish for Plywood: Updated Reviews 2021

Factors to Consider when Choosing Varnish for Plywood

Durability: The strength and longevity of your plywood depend on the varnish you choose. For enhanced protection from daily usage, water exposure, and other environmental elements, polyurethane varnish is often recommended for its enduring effectiveness. When selecting a sealant for your plywood project, opt for a durable option like polyurethane to ensure optimal security against damage over time.

UV-resistance: It is important to pick a varnish with UV-resistant properties if the plywood will be exposed to direct sunlight. This helps ensure that the wood won’t suffer from fading, discoloration, or other damage caused by extended exposure. Spar and epoxy varnishes are well known for their effective UV resistance powers in these cases.

Indoor vs. Outdoor Use: The durability of your plywood’s finish is contingent on which varnish you select. For exterior use, opt for the varnishes formulated to battle unfavorable weather conditions; if it will be mostly indoors, then a standard indoor-grade varnish should suffice. Ultimately, you must carefully consider the intended purpose to determine which type of varnish will provide maximum protection and resilience.

Gloss Level : Choosing the perfect varnish for your plywood should be a reflection of your style. With options ranging from matte to high-gloss, you can find a level of shine that perfectly fits with what you’re looking to achieve. The glossiness or dullness of the finish will depend on which type you select and how it meshes with whatever aesthetic vision you have in mind.

Ease of Application: When it comes to varnish, application ease is a key factor for DIY devotees. While some require specialized tools or experience to utilize, others can be quickly and easily brushed on with a roller or even just your hands! Water-based formulas are particularly renowned for their easy implementation.

Cost: Carefully considering the price is essential when selecting a varnish. Prices range from inexpensive to costly, depending on the quality and longevity of the product. It’s important to find that delicate balance between staying within your budget and still obtaining top-notch durability and performance.

How to Apply Plastic Varnish on Wood in 8 Steps

In case you’ve decided to use plastic varnish on your plywood, here are the steps to follow to ensure a successful application:

Clean and Sand the Surface: Before you begin, ensure the surface is spotless and free of any residue or particles. Gel sandpaper to guarantee that it’s even and polished; then use a moist towel to take off excess dust and allow for adequate drying time afterward.

Apply Wood Conditioner: If your project involves working with porous wood, such as pine or spruce, it is recommended that you use a wood conditioner on the surface. This will promote better adhesion of varnish and avoid blotching. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application procedure and drying time before proceeding with subsequent steps.

Stir the Varnish: Before using the varnish, ensure that it is well mixed for an even outcome. Take caution to not incorporate any air bubbles while stirring.

Test the Varnish: Before applying the varnish, make sure to test it on a small and unobtrusive area of the wood to guarantee that its hue is what you desire. If necessary, amend the mixture with either pigment or thinner until your desired outcome is achieved.

Apply the First Coat: When applying the first coat of varnish, use a high-quality brush and be sure to go with the grain. Don’t apply too much in one area as you won’t want any drips or uneven coverage. After completing your work, allow it to dry completely before sanding for an ideal result.

Sand the Surface: Once the first coat has dried, lightly sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections and create a smoother surface for the second coat. Wipe away all dust particles using a damp cloth, allowing it time to dry before painting again.

Apply the Second Coat: Following the same application process as with your first coat, apply the second layer of varnish and be mindful of avoiding any drips or uneven coverage. Once done, give it ample time to dry completely before touching it again.

Let the Varnish Dry: Once the second layer has dried, leave your varnish to dry completely by the instructions of its manufacturer. This process should take a few hours or so but may be influenced by temperature and humidity levels.

Varnish to Use on Plywood

When it comes to selecting a varnish to use on plywood, there are a variety of options available. Here are six of the top varnishes to consider:

Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane: With its remarkable ability to protect against water damage, UV rays, and temperature fluctuations – this waterproof finish is a top-rated pick for outdoor projects. Its crystal clear glossy coat will bring out the natural beauty of your woodwork with no extra effort on your part. Plus it can be used both indoors and outdoors.

Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Spar Varnish: This varnish is designed specifically for boats and other marine applications, this varnish also makes a great choice for outdoor furniture, doors, and any wood surfaces that need a clear finish to protect them from water and harsh weather conditions. Its superior durability will ensure your wood is safe against the elements while still achieving an attractive appearance.

Varathane Crystal Clear Spar Urethane: In case you’re looking for an exterior solution to protect your doors, windows, and other wood surfaces that are exposed to the elements, our varnish is ideal. Not only will it shield them against UV rays, water, and temperature changes but also bring out their natural beauty due to its crystal-clear finish when dried.

General Finishes Outdoor Oil: This durable penetrating oil provides remarkable protection against water and the elements, making it ideal for both interior and exterior surfaces. Not only does it dry to a matte finish that accentuates your wood’s natural beauty, but applying and maintaining this protective coating is incredibly easy.

Epifanes Clear Varnish: This superior varnish is perfect for marine applications and can be used to seal outdoor furniture, doors, and other wood surfaces. Boasting remarkable UV rays and water protection, this fast-drying formula produces a brilliant clear gloss with every application.

TotalBoat Lust Marine Varnish: This high-performing varnish has been specially formulated to protect boats and other marine vessels from water, UV rays, and temperature fluctuations. Not only does this product provide superior protection but it also leaves a beautiful clear finish that shines brilliantly under the sun’s rays. Best of all, it’s easy to apply and maintain with minimal effort.

Preparation Steps Before Varnishing Plywood

Sanding: To make sure your plywood is prepped and ready for a beautiful varnish, sanding should always be the first step. By using different grits of sandpaper – starting with the coarser kind and then gradually transitioning to finer ones – any roughness or discrepancies will soon disappear. Sanding not only smoothens out the surface but also helps ensure that the varnish adheres well to it to achieve an even finish.

Cleaning: Sanding can leave a mess of dust and dirt; therefore, use a dry, lint-free cloth or tack cloth to remove all traces from the surface. This guarantees that it is clean and primed for varnish application.

Applying Wood Conditioner: Before varnishing your plywood, use a wood conditioner to ensure an even absorption of the finish. Wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that brings out the natural grain and creates consistency in application. By applying it before varnishing, you’ll achieve a smoother, more uniform final product.

Filling and Sealing Gaps: Before applying varnish, examine the plywood for any cracks or holes. Utilize wood filler to patch up and level out any gaps or imperfections, then sand it down until smooth. After filling them in, ensure that you cover those crevices with a sealant or finish; this will protect against moisture or air seeping into your plywood’s surface. Give these sealers enough time to dry before moving on to the next step.

How to Apply Varnish on Plywood in 10 Easy Steps

Tools needed.

• Wood conditioner
• Paint roller/brush

Sand the surface of the plywood: To ensure the best outcome, sanding your plywood with sandpaper of at least 120 grit is a must. This will help level out any irregularities on its surface and allow for optimal adhesion of varnish to the wood façade. Sanding also makes sure that no splinters or rough surfaces remain, creating an even and smooth finish for maximum effect.

Clean the surface of the plywood: After sanding the plywood, it is essential to eliminate dust and debris from its surface for a perfect finish. Wipe away any particles with a soft cloth or tack cloth to guarantee that your varnish will adhere properly and provide an even gloss.

Apply wood conditioner: To achieve an even and smooth finish with a softwood plywood, it is advised to apply a wood conditioner before applying varnish. Cover the entire surface of your project using a brush, then let dry completely before layering on the varnish for long-lasting results.

Apply the first coat of varnish: To ensure the best results, use a superior brush to apply your initial layer of varnish on the plywood. Make sure it’s evenly spread out along with the wood grain and create a thin coat; take care not to over-saturate your brush so you don’t have any drips or streaks.

Allow the first coat to dry completely: After the first coating of varnish is finished, give it adequate time to dry before polishing or adding a second layer. Depending on which kind of varnish you use and the specific climate in your space, drying times may vary drastically. For accurate information regarding this process, make sure to read through the manufacturer’s instructions for an exact waiting period recommendation.

Sand the surface lightly: Once your first layer of varnish has dried, use a fine-grit sandpaper to lightly buff the surface. This will eliminate any rough patches and create a sleek finish for the next coat of varnish.

Apply the second coat of varnish: With the second coating of varnish, use the same process as before—by brushing along with the wood grain and ensuring not to overload your brush. Spread it evenly across the surface and give ample time for drying before sanding or continuing onto a third coat.

Allow the second coat to dry completely: Once you’ve completed the second layer of varnish, ensure to wait for it to dry fully before sanding or beginning on a third coat. Do not forget to peruse the manufacturer’s guidebook for their recommended drying period.

Sand the surface lightly: After the second layer of varnish has dried, take a fine-grit sandpaper to tenderly smooth out any bumpy or jagged spots. This will result in an ideally even surface for your last coat of varnish for that perfect finish.

Apply the third coat of varnish: To complete your project, brush on the final layer of varnish by the wood grain and be mindful not to use too much. Make sure it’s applied evenly and then wait until fully dry before utilizing the plywood.

Tips for Applying Varnish on Plywood

When applying varnish on plywood, several tips can help ensure a smooth and successful process. Here are some essential tips to keep in mind:

Use a High-Quality Brush or Roller: Choosing the right brush or roller is essential for achieving a perfect finish. A high-quality tool will guarantee an even application of varnish, leaving no annoying brush marks behind. With this in mind, it becomes apparent that investing in quality can truly make all the difference.

Apply Thin Coats: For a smooth and even finish, varnish should be applied in various thin layers. This will ensure that each layer dries correctly and decreases the chance of any runs, drips, or bubbles occurring. An extra few minutes spent applying several thin coats is much better than rushing to apply one thick coat.

Avoid Overbrushing: Caution must be taken when varnishing to ensure a smooth, even application. An over-brushed surface can create an unsightly bubbled or streaked effect; always apply the product in one direction, avoiding revisiting areas that have already been covered.

Sand Between Coats: For a sensational finish, sanding between coats is essential to smooth out and eliminate any bumps that may have occurred with the prior coat. A 220-grit fine-grit sandpaper should be used for this task, lightly buffing away at the surface before applying another layer of paint or stain.

Maintain Consistent Humidity and Temperature: To ensure a smooth and consistent finish, varnish should be applied in an area with steady humidity and temperature levels as variations can influence the drying time. Varnish is sensitive to changes in these variables which may result in an undesired outcome.

Store Varnish Properly: To extend the shelf life of varnish and keep it in prime condition, proper storage is a must. Store your varnish in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or extreme temperatures to guarantee its longevity.

RELATED: Top 8 Best Marine Varnish for Wood- 2021 Buying Guide By A Pro

How many coats of varnish do I need to apply on plywood?

When coating plywood with varnish, the amount of coats you need depends on your goals and the kind of varnish used. Generally, two to three layers are sufficient for most tasks; nevertheless, additional protection can be achieved by applying an extra coat if needed.

Can I use any varnish on plywood?

No, not all varnishes are suitable for use on plywood. It is important to choose a varnish that is specifically formulated for use on wood surfaces, and one that is compatible with plywood.

Should I use a brush or a roller to apply varnish on plywood?

Both brushes and rollers can be used to apply varnish on plywood. However, a high-quality brush is usually the best option for achieving a smooth and even finish. Rollers are more suited for large, flat surfaces, while brushes are better for corners and hard-to-reach areas.

How long does it take for varnish to dry on plywood?

The drying time for varnish on plywood depends on several factors such as the type of varnish used, humidity, and temperature. Generally, most varnishes dry within 24 hours, but it is important to allow ample drying time between coats.

Can I apply varnish on un-sanded plywood?

No, it is not advisable to apply varnish on un-sanded plywood. Sanding the plywood helps to smooth out any rough spots and ensures that the surface is clean and free of debris, allowing the varnish to adhere properly to the plywood.

How often do I need to reapply varnish on plywood?

The frequency of reapplication of varnish on plywood depends on several factors, such as the type of varnish used, the level of exposure to sunlight and weather, and the intended use. In general, it is recommended to reapply varnish on outdoor plywood surfaces every one to three years to maintain its protective properties.

Varnishing plywood can enhance its beauty, durability, and resistance to environmental factors such as moisture, UV rays, and scratches. It is important to choose the right varnish for the intended use of the plywood and to properly prepare the surface before applying the varnish. By following the steps outlined in this guide, anyone can successfully varnish plywood and achieve professional-looking results.

RELATED: Wood Finish Comparison: A Comprehensive Guide To Choosing Wood Finish

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Everything you need to know about Yacht Varnish

Applying Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish to wooden garden features is a fantastic way of prolonging them. It can be used on all smooth planed exterior wood and offers incredibly tough protection against damage and decay – whilst still highlighting the timber’s natural colour thanks to its clear formula.

The appetite for incorporating natural materials throughout the home and garden is on the up – and as such, we have seen a rise in the number of people interested in garden features such as wooden pergolas, hardwood furniture and rustic wooden details.

When speaking to customers about their ideal garden designs, don’t shy away from incorporating these wooden elements for fear of them warping or decaying in the unpredictable British weather. With the correct preparation, timber can offer the durable and long-lasting finish customers are after.

What is Yacht Varnish?

Yacht Varnish is an incredibly durable solvent-based varnish that was originally used to on boats to protect the wood and prevent it from decaying over time. Nowadays, this type of product is more commonly used for exterior household projects, when you are looking to give timber a high-gloss finish that lasts.

Once applied, Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish is tough and will protect timber against everyday knocks and scratches as well as harsh weather conditions to prevent cracking, peeling and blistering. What’s more, it is formulated to protect the wood from the damaging effects of the sun and prevent it from discolouring, fading or greying over time. This makes it ideal for features such as wooden pergolas, doors and window frames that are exposed to the elements all year round and ensures that they will last for years to come.

Why choose Ronseal Trade?

Cleverly, Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish has been formulated to offer the excellent weatherproofing and durability you would expect from a solvent-based varnish but without the long re-coat times. Impressively, it offers around half the re-coat time of a typical solvent-based varnish; it is rainproof in just four hours and it can be re-coated in as little as eight hours. This means that time on site and disruption to the customer can be reduced.

To find out more about Ronseal Trade Yacht Varnish click here .

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How to Waterproof Plywood for Boat

Plywood is a popular material for building boats but is not naturally waterproof. If you’re building a boat with plywood, protecting it from moisture is vital to maintain its structural integrity.

Finding the best way to waterproof plywood for your boat can seem daunting, but it’s essential if you want to extend your boat’s durability and life. In this post, we’ll discuss several effective methods on how to waterproof plywood for boat to keep it safe from water damage.

Can You Waterproof Plywood for A Boat?

Owning a boat is a great way to explore the beauty of the open water. However, with great ownership comes great responsibility. To keep your boat in the best possible condition, it is important to ensure that it is protected from natural elements. When protecting your boat, one of the most important things you should consider is waterproofing the plywood. 

The good news is that with the right knowledge and equipment, waterproofing plywood for a boat is possible. So, whether you want to protect your boat from water damage or improve its durability, waterproofing your plywood is a task you should add to your to-do list.

Why Should You Waterproof Plywood for A Boat?

When building a boat, using the right materials and taking the necessary steps to ensure it remains functional for years is crucial. One key element in boatbuilding is using plywood. However, if left unprotected, plywood can quickly deteriorate and become damaged by water, leading to an unsafe and unreliable vessel. 

That’s where waterproofing comes in. By waterproofing your boat’s plywood, you can safeguard it against water damage, warping, and rotting, ultimately increasing your boat’s longevity and performance. So, the next time you build or restore a boat, don’t overlook the importance of waterproofing plywood. Your boat (and wallet) will thank you in the long run.

How to Waterproof Plywood for Boat: A Complete Guide

1. Use Marine-Grade Plywood

If you’re using plywood in building your boat, make sure to use marine-grade plywood designed specifically for boat construction. Marine plywood uses a waterproof glue that holds the layers of wood together.

It has no voids, which means that there are no gaps between the wood layers that could cause water intrusion, weakening the boat’s structure. Marine plywood is the best choice for boat builders who want to avoid the risk of water damage.

2. Seal the Edges with Epoxy

The edges of plywood sheets are the most exposed areas for water damage. One of the effective ways to protect the edges is by applying epoxy resin. Epoxy is a durable waterproof coating that creates a protective barrier against moisture.

Before applying epoxy, it’s important to prepare the wood surface by sanding it to remove dirt or debris. After that, apply a thin layer of epoxy on the edges of the wood and let it dry completely before moving on to the other side.

3. Apply Fiberglass Cloth

Fiberglass cloth is another waterproofing method boat builders use to protect their plywood boats. The cloth reinforces the boat’s structure while creating a strong barrier against water penetration.

Before applying fiberglass cloth, sand the wood surface to make it smooth. Then, apply a coat of epoxy to the wood and lay the fiberglass cloth on top of it. Use a squeegee to smooth out any air bubbles. After that, apply a topcoat of epoxy resin to seal the fiberglass cloth completely.

4. Apply Marine Paint

Marine paints are specialized paints designed to withstand harsh maritime environments. They are an affordable and straightforward option for waterproofing plywood boats. When using marine paint, it’s essential to sand the wood surface first to allow the paint to adhere to the surface properly.

Apply multiple layers of paint, letting each layer dry before applying the next. Make sure to apply the paint to the edges and any other exposed areas, such as the bottom of the boat.

5. Use Elastomeric Marine Sealant

Using elastomeric marine sealant is another effective way to waterproof the plywood of your boat. Elastomeric sealants are designed to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity, making them ideal for boat environments.

They are versatile and can be used on any surface, including rubber, plastic, aluminum, and fiberglass. Apply the sealant to the edges of the ply by using a caulking gun. Ensure that you fill any gap or cracks between the plywood and adjacent surfaces.

6. Use Varnish

Varnish is another popular method of waterproofing plywood boats. Before applying the varnish, it’s important to sand the surface and apply a layer of primer for better adhesion. Once the primer has dried, apply multiple thin layers of varnish to the wood, letting each layer dry before applying the next. Varnish can help protect your plywood boat from sun and water damage.

7. Use Liquid Rubber Sealant

A liquid rubber sealant is an excellent way to waterproof plywood boats since it creates a strong barrier against moisture. When using a liquid rubber sealant, make sure to clean the wood surface first before applying it. Also, use a brush to apply the sealant on the plywood edges and any joints or gaps. Let it dry before using your boat in the water.

That’s it! You’ve now learned seven different methods for waterproofing plywood for a boat. Taking the time to waterproof your boat’s plywood properly will help protect it from water damage, extend its life, and make it look better overall. So, don’t forget to add this important task to your next boatbuilding or restoration project! Happy sailing!

5 Considerations Things When You Need to Waterproof Plywood for a Boat

1. choose the right type of plywood.

When waterproofing plywood for a boat, choosing the right type of plywood is important. Marine-grade plywood is designed to withstand exposure to water and humidity, making it an ideal choice for boatbuilding projects. Ensuring the plywood has been treated with a waterproof sealant or paint is also important.

2. Use Epoxy Resin

Epoxy resin is one of the best materials for waterproofing plywood for a boat. This material forms a strong bond between the wood fibers and creates an impenetrable barrier against moisture and humidity. It can also be used with fiberglass cloth for added strength and durability.

3. Apply a Waterproof Sealant

Applying a waterproof sealant is another effective way to protect plywood from water damage. Several types of sealants are available, including acrylics, polyurethanes, and silicone-based formulas. For maximum protection, applying multiple coats of sealant over the entire wood surface is best.

4. Paint the Plywood

Painting the plywood with marine-grade paint will also help to protect it from water damage. It is important to use a paint that is specifically designed for use on boats, as regular paints may not be able to withstand exposure to saltwater or other harsh elements found in marine environments. Additionally, make sure that you apply several coats of paint for maximum protection against moisture and humidity.

5. Monitor Conditions Regularly

It is also important to monitor conditions regularly to ensure that your waterproofing efforts are successful. Ensure there are no signs of water damage or deterioration, such as warping or cracking in the wood, as these could indicate that more protective measures need to be taken to keep your boat safe from water damage.

5 Benefits of Waterproof Plywood for Boat

1. durability.

Waterproof plywood is an incredibly durable material that is perfect for boat building. It is made from layers of thin sheets of wood glued together with waterproof adhesive. This creates a strong, stable material that can withstand the rigors of life on the water. The layers also help to reduce warping and cracking, which can occur in traditional wood when exposed to moisture or temperature changes.

2. Lightweight

Waterproof plywood is also much lighter than other types of wood, making it easier to work with and transport. This makes it ideal for boat building, as it reduces the overall weight of the vessel and makes it easier to maneuver in the water. Additionally, its light weight means that you don’t need as many supports or reinforcements, which can save time and money during construction.

3. Cost-Effective

Another benefit of waterproof plywood is that it is much more cost-effective than other materials used for boat building, such as fiberglass or aluminum. Not only does it cost less upfront, but it also requires less maintenance over time, saving you money in the long run.

4. Versatile

Waterproof plywood is also very versatile and can be used for various applications on boats such as decks, bulkheads, floors, and transoms. It can be cut into any shape or size needed, making it easy to customize a boat according to your needs. Additionally, its strength allows you to use fewer pieces when constructing a boat, saving both time and money.

5. Eco-Friendly

Finally, waterproof plywood is a great choice if you’re looking for an eco-friendly option for your boat-building project. Plywood comes from renewable sources such as trees harvested responsibly without damaging forests or ecosystems around them.

Additionally, because it doesn’t require harsh chemicals or treatments like fiberglass, its production process has minimal impact on the environment compared to other materials used in boat building.

With all of these benefits, waterproof plywood is an ideal choice for boat-building projects and can help you build a strong, durable vessel that will last for years to come. Make sure to do your research before selecting a type of plywood so that you get the best results for your project.

5 Common Mistakes People Make When Trying to Waterproof Plywood for a Boat

1. not applying enough sealant.

One of the most common mistakes people make when trying to waterproof plywood for a boat is not applying enough sealant. Plywood is highly porous and must be thoroughly sealed to keep it watertight. Applying a generous amount of sealant is important, ensuring that all surfaces are completely covered. If the sealant isn’t applied properly, water can seep into the wood, leading to rot and decay.

2. Not Using Marine Grade Plywood

Another mistake people make when trying to waterproof plywood for a boat is not using marine-grade plywood. Marine-grade plywood is designed specifically for use in boats and is much more resistant to water damage than regular plywood. Regular plywood may look similar, but it doesn’t have the same level of durability and won’t hold up as well over time.

3. Not Preparing the Surface Properly

It’s also important to prepare the surface of the plywood before applying any sealant or paint. The surface should be sanded until smooth and free from any dirt or debris that could prevent the sealant from adhering properly. Any existing paint should also be removed, as it can prevent the new coat from bonding correctly with the wood.

4. Not Using Multiple Coats of Sealant

Applying only one coat of sealant will not provide enough protection against moisture and will need to be reapplied more often than if multiple coats were used initially. Multiple coats will create a stronger barrier between the wood and moisture, providing better protection over time and making it easier to maintain in future years.

5. Not Letting Each Coat Dry Completely

Finally, it’s important not to rush through this process by skipping steps such as waiting for each coat of sealant or paint to dry completely before applying another layer. This step is essential for all layers to bond properly and form an effective waterproof barrier between your boat and any moisture that may come into contact with its surface over time.

Waterproofing plywood is a vital step in building a long-lasting and durable boat. Choosing one of these waterproofing methods will help extend the life of your boat and reduce maintenance costs in the long run. However, each method has advantages and disadvantages, so choosing a method that best suits your needs and budget is important. 

Whatever method you choose, follow the correct application instructions to achieve the best results. Proper waterproofing allows you to enjoy your boat for many years. Thanks for reading our post about how to waterproof plywood for boat.

Adrian Green

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What’s the best varnish for your yacht?

Varnishing your yacht is an essential part of its care and maintenance. The benefits are twofold: yacht varnish protects your boat from the elements, while also giving it a beautiful shiny finish. But with so many different yacht and marine varnishes to choose from, it can be difficult to know which one is best for your boat. In this article, we’ll run through some of the most popular types of yacht varnish on the market to help you choose the right option.

What is yacht varnish?

Yacht varnish is an extremely durable solvent-based coating that is designed to protect the wood that yachts are made of and stop it decaying over time. Most varnishes are made up of a penetrating oil, resin and solvent. Although most yacht varnish is applied with a brush, it is possible to buy yacht varnish spray.

Different types of yacht varnish finish

There are many different types of finish to choose from, so you’ll need to know a little about them to decide which is the best yacht varnish for you.

Clear yacht varnish

A clear yacht varnish does what it says on the tin: it will create a transparent, glossy finish that does not alter the colour of the wood it is applied to.

Matt yacht varnish

Using a matt coloured yacht varnish will result in a dull, non-shiny finish that does not reflect light. This can be ideal for hiding flaws or imperfections in wood.

Yacht varnish satin

A satin varnish falls between clear and matt. This type of finish will create a pearl-like sheen, without being overly shiny or reflective.

Yacht varnish brands

There are various brands that produce yacht varnish. Here are a couple of the most popular:

Screwfix yacht varnish

Screwfix is a retailer in the UK that sells a variety of products, including hardware and building supplies. They may carry different brands and types of yacht varnish. Yacht varnish provides resistance to water, UV rays, and other environmental elements. Yacht varnishes often contain additives to enhance their durability and performance in marine conditions.

Ronseal yacht varnish

A durable, long-lasting marine varnish for wood that flexes with the movement of the wood and resists peeling and cracking. This varnish is slightly more pricey than the Screwfix varnish, but gets great reviews. You can buy the Ronseal brand of yacht varnish in B&Q and other retailers.

How to varnish your yacht

Varnishing a yacht is fairly straightforward, if a little time-consuming. First you’ll need to carefully sand down the entire surface that you want to varnish to get it looking smooth. Then use a soft brush to wipe off any excess dust and debris, since you don’t want it getting trapped in the varnish. Finally, use a paintbrush to coat the yacht with varnish. Leave it to dry for the recommended amount of time on the tin, then apply additional coats as required. Always check the instructions of your varnish type, and if unsure consult with an expert before starting.

How long does it take for yacht varnish to dry?

Yacht varnish generally takes 4 – 6 hours to dry, although you should check the instructions for the specific product you’re using. You’ll probably want to do two or three coats of varnish, leaving sufficient drying time in between coats.

Is yacht varnish good for decking?

This depends on the product you choose. Some yacht varnish is suitable for decking, while others are not because they do not have an anti-slip formula.

Is yacht varnish good for floors?

Yacht varnish should not be used as an indoor floor varnish. It is difficult to dry indoors, and contains chemicals that can be toxic if it is not used correctly.

Is yacht varnish safe for animals?

Yacht varnish is solvent-based and contains toxic chemicals, which means it should not be used for varnishing animal enclosures (for example, rabbit hutches or reptile enclosures).

What is yacht varnish used for?

Yacht varnish is used for sealing and protecting wood on boats and yachts. It is also commonly used for outdoor items such as wooden doors, window frames or pergolas.

What type of varnish is yacht varnish?

Yacht varnish is a solvent-based outdoor varnish that is extremely durable. It is usually made up of tung oil and polyurethane resin. 

What is the best varnish to use on a boat?

The type of varnish that is best for your boat will depend on the type of wood your boat is made from and the finish you are looking for. Tung oil varnish is a safe bet for most boats, or you may prefer to use a one-part polyurethane varnish for added durability.

What is the difference between yacht varnish and outdoor varnish?

In general, yacht varnish dries quicker and is designed for marine conditions, so it’s likely to be more durable than outdoor varnish. However, yacht varnish is unlikely to have an anti-slip formulation, making it unsuitable for decking around the home.

Looking for yacht and boat insurance ? Buy your sailing yacht insurance online at Admiral, or contact our expert team for advice.

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• Digital edition

Best boat varnish: 7 top options for gleaming woodwork

• Drew Maglio
• October 13, 2022

Different varnishes do different jobs. Understanding their properties will help you decide what's the best boat varnish for your woodwork. Drew Maglio explains all...

Few things are as quintessential to the archetypal sailboat as gleaming, iridescent woodwork that is indicative of a recent coat with one of the best boat varnish products on the market.

Choosing a product and methodology to apply marine varnish to achieve such results is not as simple as it would seem at first glance however, and this guide aims to make the whole process easier for novice and seasoned boat-owners alike.

First things first, what exactly is boat varnish? Put simply, varnish is a chemical solution of three parts which includes a penetrating oil, resin, and solvent.

Boat varnish for exterior use, aka. “spar varnish” — aptly named because it was designed and envisioned as a flexible protective coating to protect a yacht’s wooden spar in the harsh (outdoor) marine environment — both protects and beautifies a vessel’s wood parts.

It does so by sealing the wood with a somewhat hard, yet flexible, clear protective barrier that can last up to three years of UV and element exposure in temperate climates for the most durable two-part product formulations.

These days, most high-end boat varnishes use tung oil and an alkyld or polyurethane resin. Of the two types of resin, polyurethane — either one or two part — is going to be much more durable and resistant to UV, abrasion, fuel/solvent spills, and impacts.

While a two-part product cannot be applied over a one-part product, a two-part product is going to last much longer and be far more durable. Hence for high traffic areas like cabin soles, a two-part polyurethane product cannot be beat for longevity and durability.

Boaters should be aware that the most onerous task of applying boat varnish is the surface prep, which requires removing all flaking previous coatings by sanding, washing with solvent to degrease the surface, in addition to taping nearby areas to keep the varnish off.

Because of that, I highly recommend using quality products over cheaper, lower cost options which will mean your boat needs revarnishing far more often.

International Perfection Plus two-part varnish

Best polyurethane boat varnish

International Perfection Plus is a well-known two-pot polyurethane

International Perfection Plus (sold in the US under the Interlux brnad) is arguably the best overall marine spar varnish on the market. This two-part polyurethane formulation is not only the most aesthetically spectacular, but also the most durable and longest lasting when exposed to UV.

This two-part product is applied to bare wood after careful sanding and degreasing and can be rolled/brushed or sprayed. It uses a proprietary Interlux thinner and one’s results will be excellent if one follows the recommended procedures to the “t.”

Of all the boat varnish products on this list, this two-part product is probably the least DIY-friendly.

Reasons to buy

• Most durable marine varnish in terms of hardness and flexibility • Best UV resistance • Most beautiful (glossy) varnish if applied properly • Hardness and longevity makes it a prime contender to redo cabin soles and floor boards (after proper surface prep)

Reasons to avoid

• Difficult application for inexperienced laymen • Expensive

Buy International Perfection PLUS two-part varnish on Amazon (UK)

Buy International Perfection PLUS two-part Varnish on Gael Force Marine

Buy Interlux Perfection PLUS two-part varnish on Amazon (US)

Buy Interlux Perfection PLUS two-part varnish on West Marine

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

Epifanes clear varnish.

Epifanes Clear Varnish includes tung oil and alkyd

Epifanes offers quality marine paints and varnishes at reasonable prices and their Clear High Gloss Varnish is no exception. With 64% solids content (tung oil) and an alkyd base, this varnish is sure to be brilliant in terms of gloss with reasonable durability and longevity.

With one-part alkyd products, boat owners can expect up to two years of protection before maintenance is required if left out in the elements year-round. This product can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed.

• Affordable, quality one-part product • High solids content results in very glossy finish • Relatively easy to apply and achieve satisfactory results

• Not as much UV protection as other offerings • Not as impact or abrasion-resistant as other offerings

Buy Epifanes Clear Varnish on Amazon

Buy Epifanes Clear Varnish on West Marine

International Paints are also sold in the US under the Interlux brand

International Schooner Premish Varnish

A traditional marine spar varnish — albeit a good one — is Interlux’s Schooner Varnish.

With an alkyd base, 47% of tung oil solids, and UV inhibitors to boot, this product is a well-balanced one-part product that is suitable for a variety of uses. This product can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed.

• Affordable, quality one-part product • Well-balanced product in terms of UV protection and solids content • Relatively easy to apply and achieve satisfactory results

• More expensive than Epifanes • Not as impact or abrasion-resistant as some other offerings • Not as much UV protection as some other offerings

Buy International Schooner Varnish on Amazon (UK)

Buy International Schooner Varnish on Gael Force Marine

Buy Interlux Schooner Varnish on West Marine

Total Boat Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish

Best value boat varnish

In recent years, Total Boat has become very popular offering products comparable—and sometimes superior—to the “big three” of Interlux, Petit, and Epifanes, at a fraction of the cost and their “Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish” is no exception. This one-part formulation uses linseed oil and a modified polyurethane base.

• Very affordable one-part proper “marine” varnish • Does not require sanding • Comes in matte for those seeking a satin finish • One-hour re-coat time

• Tends to cure quicker than most varnishes and therefore can cure before properly “flowing out” • Requires 6-8 coats

Buy Total Boat Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish on Amazon (US)

Buy Total Boat Lust High Gloss Marine Varnish on Walmart

Cetol Marine Wood Finish

Best boat varnish for external teak

Cetol has been making alternative wood finishes for a long time. While this product does not have the aesthetic beauty of freshly applied gleaming varnish, it lasts far longer and stands up to UV better than every one-part varnish on this list.

When I had peeling varnish on my 1987 Ericson 38-200 sailboat moored in the tropical Florida Keys, I elected to use Cetol’s “Natural Teak” offering in lieu of varnish and found it incredibly easy to apply and long-lasting, requiring no surface prep to speak up but a quick hand sand and power wash. For outside teak, Cetol cannot be beat.

• Incredibly easy to achieve satisfactory results • Affordable • Long-lasting even when exposed to UV

• Not as beautiful as real varnish • Softer and less durable to impact/abrasion compared to most varnishes, especially polyurethane formulations

Buy Cetol Marine Wood Finish on West Marine

Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane

The last product featured on our list is Miniwax’s one-part polyurethane spar varnish. While not the most beautiful finish available, this product is durable (hard and abrasion-resistant), easy to use, and very affordable, making it a good choice for touching up one-part varnishes inside a boat’s cabin.

For repairing, touching up, or even redoing cabin soles, this would also be a decent budget option and therefore is included on this list. Unlike the many UV-resistant offerings on this list, Miniwax Helmsman is not very UV-resistant and therefore is not recommended outdoors.

• Very affordable, even for a gallon • One-part polyurethane enhances durability and longevity over alkyd-based products • Good for sailors on a budget needing to repair and touch up existing interior varnish

• Not as beautiful as alkyd-based marine spar varnished • Not very UV-resistant • Yellows in sunlight

Buy Miniwax Helmsman Spar Urethane on Amazon (US)

Hempel Dura Gloss

Best solvent-based boat varnish

Hempel Dura Gloss Varnish is a urethane modified alkyd, ideal for interior use

Hempel’s Dura Gloss Varnish is a urethane modified alkyd, ideal for interior use

On the downside, alkyd varnishes lack resistance to abrasion and usually only one coat can be applied per day, which can make varnishing a drawn out process.

The more expensive types are formulated to speed up cure times, improve gloss retention and generally last longer.

Buy Hempel’s Dura-Gloss Varnish on Amazon

Varnish properly applied to brightwork is a joy to behold. Photo: Thornton Cohen/Alamy

Which type of boat varnish to choose?

Varnishing often appears to be a simple task, but there’s a bewildering choice of boat varnishes on the market, writes Rupert Holmes.

An understanding of the qualities of different types of varnish is needed to choose the optimum one for each purpose. This is particularly true for exterior woodwork which has to withstand the ravages of sun, rain and frost.

There are only a few basic types of varnish, although in many cases hybrid products are available, particularly alkyd/ tung oil and alkyd/modified urethanes that can offer a wider range of desirable properties.

Polyurethane boat varnish

Polyurethane varnishes are a harder option with good wear resistance, but they lack the flexibility of alkyds. In addition, they tend to sit more on the surface of the timber, so often do not adhere as well to the substrate, which can make them prone to flaking and chipping.

The lack of flexibility makes a pure polyurethane unsuitable for traditionally planked boats, but it can be ideal for plywood , as well as for cold moulded and strip planked hulls.

Polyurethanes are available as both one-pot and two-pot products, the latter giving a harder coating and faster cure, which allows multiple coats to be applied in one day.

Article continues below…

Boat wood: a complete guide for yacht owners

Boatbuilder and finisher Lyndon March explains which types of wood work best for different repairs and modifications on board

How to re-caulk teak decks: Vagabond 47 owners explain how they did it

First, they removed the old caulking between the planks using a Bosch Palm Router and pinned a guide into the…

Teak alternatives: How to make your decks look as good as the real thing

However, according to a recent report by the Environment Investigation Agency, there are grave questions over the sustainability and sourcing…

If you need to save the varnish overnight, take a look at this top tip on preserving two-part varnish in the fridge. However, they are a much more expensive option.

N.B. One-pot polyurethane can be applied over two-pot varnish but not the other way round.

Ultra-flexible single-pot polyurethanes, such as Coelan have an elasticity of more than 300%. It can also seal cracks, is highly resistant to impact damage and doesn’t need overcoating for several years and can last twice as long as traditional varnishes.

The biggest downside is that it’s four or five times more expensive than typical basic alkyd varnishes, so up-front costs are higher, although its long term performance means the total cost difference will be smaller.

Many boat varnish products can be painted, sprayed or rolled

Tung oil varnish

Tung oil is also frequently used in traditional varnishes: it soaks in well and, although a pure tung oil product will usually cure very slowly, the final finish is very tough.

Solvent-based varnish

Traditional solvent-based one-pot alkyd varnishes are ideal for use with traditionally built wooden boats. The coating is soft but flexible, which makes it resistant to cracking when used on timber that expands when wet and contracts in dry summer weather. Additionally, the initial coats tend to soak into the timber effectively.

Epoxy resin

Epoxy resin can also be used to coat timber, but generally has poor resistance to ultra-violet light, so a varnish needs to be applied over the top. Beware inexpensive ‘yacht’ varnish sold in DIY stores – the low prices are usually easy to explain in terms of extended drying times or poor long-term performance when used outside.

Dealing with surface damage? Don’t delay!

Whatever type of varnish is used, don’t delay on sealing any areas of damage. The key priority is to keep water out, so don’t wait until you have time and suitable weather for a full repair – touch in the damaged area immediately.

This may not have a silky smooth finish initially, but don’t worry. Even if it’s a few weeks before you’re able to do a proper fix you know there won’t be any further degradation.

Top boat varnish tip

A useful tip is to clean out one of the small match pots DIY stores sell to enable customers to test household colour schemes and fill it with varnish. They have a brush built into the lid, which never needs to be cleaned, thus making a quick touch up of damage a task that only takes a couple of minutes.

Find out how to get the best finish with these 8 top tips for varnishing .

Didn’t find what you’re looking for? Head to Amazon’s dedicated boating page for more marine products.

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Home > DIY How To Projects and Tutorial Guides > Different Types of Varnish and Wood Stain

Different Types of Varnish and Wood Stain

Understand all about teh different types of varnish and wood stain and when you should use them to get the finish you are looking for. We explain how both stains and varnishes work so that you can see when and why you should use them. We also explain the common types of varnish that you would use in your home improvement projects so that you can choose the right one. This is the complete guide to using stains and varnish.

Don't want to do this job yourself? Let us help you find a tradesman local to you

A varnish is a finish and protecting film that is typically associated with wood, but can be used on other substrates also. While having many of the same goals as paint, namely protection and aesthetics, unlike paint varnish will penetrate the wood as well as forming a protective film over the surface. Varnishes are not coloured like a paint.

In this project we focus on varnishes, and if a colour is needed, stains. We will explain when and how to use your stain with your varnish to get the best finish.

Varnish Ingredients – What Makes Up Varnishes?

In essence, varnish is basically a paint without the pigment applied to it. The majority of these are polyurethane based resins and are solvent based (similar to oil paints). Acrylic varnishes, although water based, are becoming more popular for their environmental and health benefits.

Varnishes protect and provide a beautiful finish – Image courtesy of Boat Wood Finishing

Like paints, there are three main constituents to varnish:

• Varnish Oils: This is the ingredient that will cure and/or harden on exposure to the air to form the protective coating that a varnish provides. Varying the proportion of (and types of) oils to resin affects the properties of the varnish, from high gloss, hard but brittle varnishes used on furniture to softer, flexible and weather resistant types that are better for outdoor use. The choice of oil will have an effect on the eventual “look” of the varnish. Some oils can have some colour which will tint the varnish. The gloss of the varnish will be determined by the oil, although additives known as flatting agents can be added to reduce the sheen
• Resin: This is the component that adds the strength and body to the finished varnish. There is a huge range of compounds from natural products such as tree resins and even insect secretions to organic chemicals such as polymers and plastics that are used as varnish resins. Like the oil the choice of resin can affect the varnish so resins that do not colour the varnish are favoured. The way that they react or act with the oil will have a bearing on the properties of the varnish
• Thinner (or Solvent): This is the ingredient that thins the oils and resins to allow the varnish to be applied easily. Having done its job it should evaporate and allow the resin and oils to cure and harden. The thinner can be a range of solvents, such as turps or white spirit. Water can be used in some varnishes

The more thinners there are the more liquid the varnish will be, which is not necessarily a good thing, unless the varnish is to be applied by spraying which will need a thinner mixture. A thicker varnish will be more viscous and allow a thicker more durable coat.

Similar to paints, varnishes are also available with a satin/silk or high gloss finishes, either clear or with the addition of a very small amount of colour. This will be determined by the choice and amounts of oils to resin used in the mix, but flatting agents are often needed too to take off the gloss. Generally varnishes are clear, and a stain is used before applying the varnish, if colour is needed. Varnishes with added colour are often intended to enhance the appearance of wood, or even give it some extra colour, which is easier and quicker that staining and then varnishing in t two step process.

Varnishes can come is gloss, satin and matt finishes – Image courtesy of Wickes

How a Varnish Hardens or Cures

There are essentially two ways that varnishes harden, and it is very helpful to understand them:

• Immediate Hardening: Some varnishes harden immediately that the solvent evaporates. In the absence of the solvent or thinner the resins and oils become dry and solid. When we say immediate hardening, the solvents will take several hours at least to dry, but when they are dry then at that point, immediately, the varnish is hard (as it will ever be) and ready for use
• Gradual Hardening: These are varnishes where there is a ongoing reaction between the oils and resins after the solvent has evaporated, which make continue for several days in some cases, before the varnish is hard and fully cured. In this case the exposure to the air causes oxidation and polymerization which may occur over a series of processes and take a few days

As we have already discussed the different ingredients or component parts of the varnish will have the biggest influence over these hardening processes and the time it takes. Also there are a range of additives that are used to affect these properties and others favourable properties such as colour, flexibility, UV protection and many more.

The biggest factor under our control (to a degree) is the temperature and humidity, so this is worth considering. Read the instructions on the specific varnish you’re using for further guidance, however as a general rule of thumb higher temperatures and lower humidity will speed up curing times. This might not be as good a thing as you think, because if a varnish hardens too quickly it might become brittle, which is why we refer you to the instructions.

How to Apply Varnish – Tips for a Great Finish

Before you start to apply any varnish, ensure that the surface is well prepared; varnish accentuates rather than hides marks, unwanted stains and bumps. Sand the surface down with a medium or course grit sandpaper before filling any cracks. Then sand down again with a medium grit paper. If you are sanding and varnishing a floor then have a look at our project and videos on sanding floors here .

Varnish is also its own primer and undercoat, although in some cases it is better to thin the first coat with roughly 10% white spirit (for solvent varnishes) and water for water-based varnishes. This is particularly true if you are using a polyurethane varnish. In most cases it is also better to apply this with a lint free cloth and you are able to rub the varnish into the wood grain better than you could do with a brush.

Once the first coat has been applied and it has dried, it then has to be keyed (rubbed down lightly) and a second coat is then applied (without dilution).

Dust and varnish don’t mix, which is a shame because all the sanding before applying the varnish will inevitably create a lot of dust. Give it time to settle and get rid of as much as possible; if you apply your varnish in a dusty environment it will stick in the drying varnish potentially ruining the finish. If this happens you will have to sand it down gently with a fine grit paper and then apply another coat.

Unlike paint, varnishes and stains are designed to soak into the wood. You can even apply a clear varnish to the stain to improve the finish and also make it more durable. These are also available in solvent and water based variations and also in a variety of colours and shades.

Varnish can be applied with a brush, which is more typical, or a roller. If you are planning to use a roller use one with a short pile. See here for help on choosing a roller . Apply with the grain to get a smooth and even finish.

Applying varnish with a roller – Image courtesy of Bona)

Different Types of Varnish Explained

There is a huge range of different varnishes out there and different manufactures will call them slightly different things to make it even more confusing.

Here are the most common types of varnish we think that you’ll find and when you might use them:

• Acrylic Varnish – These are quick drying and non-toxic water based varnishes which generally have good UV resistance meaning that they can be used outside as well as inside. They can be used on other materials other than wood, so are more versatile than many varnishes. They are clear, highly transparent and do not tend to yellow, but they do not tend to penetrate into the wood as well as oil based varnishes. Being water based you can clean up with water, which makes then very user friendly, but they sometimes do not spread as uniformly as other varnishes. They are generally available in gloss, satin and matt finishes
• Exterior Varnish – As the name indicates these are varnishes which have been specially formulated for use outside. They have added UV protection so that the wood beneath the layer of varnish is protected. They are often microporous which allows the wood to ‘breathe’ and have an added fungicide to prevent mould growth. They are likely to be very similar in formulation and performance to a yacht varnish, being relatively flexible, but slow to cure, even if they are touch dry relatively quickly
• Polyurethane Varnish – These varnishes give a really hard surface and are often used for floors and areas which are going to get a lot of wear and tear. They are also heat resistant too and will give a clear, tough finish, which is available in gloss, satin and matt finishes. Polyurethane varnishes do not tend to penetrate into the wood so are often primed with a oil based varnish or a thin shellac solution.  Do not try and put an oil based varnish on top of a Polyurethane varnish as it will not bond. In addition to the excellent hardness and durability, they are resistant to spills of mild acids, solvents and other chemicals. The do not yellow much but they are not resistant to UV (sun) light, so if used outside try to find one with added UV protection or it will deteriorate quickly
• Yacht Varnish – Also called marine (or spar) varnish, this is a varnish that was originally designed for use on boats where the primary purpose was to ensure that water did not penetrate to the wood. To achieve this the varnish had to be highly flexible; a rigid, inflexible varnish might crack as the wood bent and flexed under the strain of the sea and these cracks could allow water to penetrate. Originally these did not have much gloss, as appearance was a secondary feature, and little UV protection, but now most yacht varnishes have a high gloss finish based on tung oil and phenolic resins. They are ideal for use on outside timber, but not for surfaces that are going to be walked on
• Alkyd Varnishes – This is a terms that you will sometimes hear, and most varnishes will contain an alkyd of some kind. They are modified natural or vegetable oils.
• Shellac – This is not strictly a varnish, and is the main ingredient for French Polish for furniture. It is secreted by a beetle in South East Asia and usually bought in flakes which are diluted with alcohol before use. The ‘de-waxed’ version of shellac, which has under gone a process to have most of the waxy substances removed, can be used as a primer for other varnishes, such as Polyurethane and Acrylic which do not penetrate well into the wood. Shellac can be clear, or there are a range of shades

Some dewaxed shellac flakes as they are typically sold

• Lacquer – Again this is not really a varnish and is often used to describe the process of applying a finish by spraying. It is a quick-drying, solvent based (rather than alcohol as in the case of Shellac) finish applied by spraying. Acetone is the usual solvent base, or “Lacquer Thinner”. Once applied, lacquer can be removed using lacquer thinner. It does not cure or polymerize like a true varnish will
• Drying Oils – Again not varnishes, but simply the oils ingredient of the varnish without the resin and solvent. Because it is only the oils they take a long time to dry – often weeks for raw oils. This can be speeded up by boiling or treating to part polymerise the oil, or adding additives. The most commonly used are Tung oil and Linseed oil

Much like paint, varnishes have finishes that vary from “Gloss” through “Satin” to “Matt”. This describes the sheen of the finish and how reflective it will be. Gloss is the shiniest and smoothest, while Matt describes a dull and un-shiny finish.

Choosing the Right Varnish

Thankfully nowadays all commercially produced varnishes are of exceptional quality and will perform very well in the right setting.

Follow the description on the tin; interior varnish should not be used outside because they will not have suitable UV resistance and characteristics to withstand the elements. Floor varnishes might be too hard and prone to cracking if use on exterior wood that is likely to need some flexibility, and it is likely to degrade in the increased UV light. A yacht varnish will not be hard enough for use on a high traffic floor and wear out faster than it should.

Remember that varnish is a mixture of Oils, Resins and Thinners, with a range of additives that has been developing over hundreds if not thousands of years. A quick search of the internet and you will be able to find recipes for making your own varnish!

Hopefully with a good understanding of what the various elements do, you will understand how the various characteristics that the manufacturers’ have developed in their varnishes can be best used.

Wood Stains and Using Stains

A (wood) stain is very similar to a paint; it is designed to colour the substrate, although it does not leave a protective film as it is designed to be absorbed. Because it is absorbed, it means that the grain will be seen through the colour and the extent of this is largely dependent on how opaque the pigment in the stain is.

Like paints, a typical stain is made up of three parts:

• Pigment : This is the part that provides the colour. Some people differentiate between pigments which are held in suspension and dyes which are dissolved in the ‘vehicle’ or solvent. Essentially it makes little difference to the user, except that pigments held in suspension will be large molecules and will not penetrate the structure of the wood as much which will make them more opaque. The colours are generally browns and wood effects, but you can get highly colourful stains which will colour wood in all manner of colours
• Solvent or Vehicle : This is the ingredient of the stain that carries the pigment or dye into substrate. It makes the stain workable in exactly the same way as it does in paint. When this evaporates it leaves the pigment or dye in the grain accentuating it and leaving the colour
• Binder : Unlike paint this is a very small part of a stain, but is it still present. It helps to hold the pigment in the wood once the vehicle has carried it there

Make sure that the stain is thoroughly mixed before you start to apply it so that you get an even colour throughout.

Applying a Stain

Just as the process for preparing to varnish we described above, the surface needs to be prepared thoroughly. Fill all the cracks and sand down with a medium grit. Ensure that you use a filler that will accept the stain or it will show as an unstained patch in the stained surface.

As mentioned before, stains are often applied with a lint free cloth. This aids in the blending and coverage of the finish, but you will have to work quickly to blend the wet and dry edges together to avoid any hard lines and overlaps. A water based stain will also raise the fibres on the surface of the wood which in many cases also spoils the evenness of the colour.

Work with the gain rather than across it, and ensure that you do not overload your brush or cloth as this might cause drips. You want to try and get as even a spread as possible so that you get an even colour across the surface; drips will ruin this if you do not catch them in time.

Sand down lightly after the first application and if necessary apply another coat. This will make the colour bolder and darker. We would strongly recommend practicing on an off cut to get the measure of the stain before you start on the real thing, especially if you’re not familiar with using stains. Even if you are, it is important to see how the stain will work with your particular wood you are using.

Applying a coloured wood stain with a cloth – Image courtesy of Ana White

It is possible to mix stains to make your own unique colour. Make sure that don’t mix oil and water stains; they will not mix. If you try this you will absolutely need to test in on an off cut first! That said there are a huge variety of stains available, so you can probably find what you are looking for without going to the hassle of making it.

You will always apply the stain before applying the varnish, unless the varnish already has the stain mixed into it. Allow sufficient time for the solvent to fully evaporate before applying the finishing coat of say, varnish. If it is wet or cold we suggest that you leave another 24 hours over the manufacturers’ recommended drying time to be 100% safe.

Remember any product designed to permanently stain wood will have no trouble doing the same to your skin and fingers. The solvent will not be pleasant on your skin either so we recommend that you take care using stains, and definitely use rubber gloves and overalls.

A brave man applying wood stain while wearing white trousers (and no gloves)!

In summary, the stain provides the colour and a varnish provides the hard coating to protect the surface. These two functions are achieve in a single product with paint, however paint sits on the surface, where are both varnish and particularly stains are absorbed by the surface. This means that stains in particular are a more permanent form of colouring as it will be next to impossible to remove them.

All project content written and produced by Mike Edwards , founder of DIY Doctor and industry expert in building technology .

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Timber Properties

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Plywood for Boat Building.

When boat building with plywood always use the best quality you can afford.

For hulls and decks, my advice is to always use marine grade.

Any extra you pay for a better grade will be repaid by

• The longevity of your boat
• Reduced repair bills
• A reduction in building time
• The resale value.

• Number of Piles/Plies.
• Marine Grade
• Bending Ply.

Storage and Handling

Delamination, about plywood.

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Natural timber is a wonderful material however, it is relatively unstable, it will shrink and  swell across the grain rather than along it which, can distort.

How much will depend on how the planks have been cut .

And its tensile strength is greatest along the grain but will split with the fibers.

Plywood overcomes these problems by gluing together a number of layers with the grain running at right angles in the alternating ‘piles’.

Extra stiffness can be obtained by laying the outer layers at 45 degrees.

The greatest strength of a sheet of ply is usually parallel to face grain.

The ‘piles’ or veneers are thin sheets which are either sliced or rotary peeled from the log.

There are always an odd number of veneers in a sheet the minimum number being three.

The outside layers are called the faces, the front face usually has a better finish than the back.

Intermediate layers are known as ‘crossbands’.

The more veneers that are used the stronger and stiffer the plywood becomes, so for bending fewer is better.

It is the water resistance of the type of glue used to laminate the piles, which determines the grade of the ply, as well as wood of the veneers.

Plywood is normally sold in rectangular sheets of 4ft by 8ft 1220mm x 2440mm.

Larger sheets up to 5ft x 12ft can be obtained.

Number of Plies

The bending, tensile and compression strength of plywood are determined by the strength of the laminates and direction in which the grain lies.

As the number of plies/piles increases, the crosswise strength and stiffness of a plywood sheet will also increase.

Three-ply, for instance, is strongest along the surface grain axis, however, it bends more easily across the grain as there is only the core with grain at right angles across the sheet and the outer veneers are thicker.

Where there are more than three plies (always an odd number) the center is still known as the core the outer piles as faces and the in between plies as cross-bands.

The more fibers running in both of the directions the greater will be the shear strength across the plane of the sheet.

Interior Grade

Interior grade ply is bonded with ‘urea- formaldehyde’ glue which is not water-resistant.

The core will also contain voids which will allow any water to penetrate right to the heart.

It is possible to seal interior ply with epoxy but this will be an expensive and time consuming exercise.

The material is only water resistant to a certain extent.

The surface veneer will be of a rough wood which will be difficult to finish to any degree.

There are various grades of exterior ply which are all classed as WBP (Weather and Boil Proof).

Water-resistant adhesives are used which can resist a certain amount of moisture.

Top grades use phenol-formaldehyde, however most use ‘melamine urea- formaldehyde’ which is not so suitable for use in wet conditions.

Structural ply has a low quality face veneer though it is generally bonded with a reasonably durable phenolic resin.

Marine Grade Plywood

Marine grade is produced in soft woods such as Douglass fir or larch, and in a variety of hard woods.

While the softwood plys are strong and light they do have a tendency to ‘checking’.

Hardwood plys, on the other hand are heavier, and that little bit more expensive.

Marine Grade is made with waterproof adhesive so that it can be used under water.

It is normally laminated with a ‘phenol-formaldehyde resin’ which, sets permanently under heat and pressure.

The bond is permanent and will not deteriorate under wet conditions, heat or cold.

There should be no voids in the core or crossbands, though these may, on lower grades have been patched with synthetic material.

The better grades will have been pressure-preservative treated for resistance to decay.

Okume or Gaboon is a lighter hard wood but it doesn’t have the same rot resistance as Mahogany or Meranti.

Bending Plywood

In many cases the plywood will have sufficient flex to be able to bend it cold around your hull shape. However, if it won't, at first, pull all the way into the shape that you need, don't force it. Bend it as far as you can, clamp it, then leave it for a few hours. After a while you will find that it will have ‘relaxed’ into that bend. Now pull it in some more, it may take a few goes but eventually you should be able to pull it all the way. Having said that, it is easier to bend short, narrow panels than wide, long ones. As with timber generally heat and moisture can be used to bend ply. Simply laying it on wet grass or spraying water over the sheets, then covering with black plastic and leaving it in the sun for a few hours will make bending easier. Another way is to use a steam wallpaper stripper on the outside surface while gradually pulling the sheet into place with clamps. An alternative is to wrap the area which needs most bending in towels then pour on hot water. Or simply soak the ply overnight and encourage the bending by propping it on some batons then placing a weight on top. But the caveat is that the plywood must be allowed to dry completely again before sealing it especially if you are going to be using Epoxy. Epoxy and moisture do not mix.

Plywood can be kerfed but it must be done carefully. The kerfs should be less than half the thickness, relatively narrow and finished by filling with epoxy. In some cases, it may just be that you cannot get enough leverage on say a nib end. In which case if you cut the plank over length it will give you the leverage to get the end in position, clamp and fasten it, then trim it off afterwards. If it needs to be cut to size before gluing you could clamp a long baton onto the ply and use that to give you the extra leverage. However, for a very tight radius it is probably best to laminate it up from several layers of thinner (more flexible) ply. Once you have managed to pull that panel to shape it is best to allow it to ‘relax’ to that shape before gluing. And if planking a hull, bend and prepare both corresponding sides before gluing.

Delaminating occurs when the laminating glue fails.

Moisture then penetrates causing the wood to rot.

This causes swelling and raised edges.

Areas of delamination can be detected where the surface flexes and by a dull sound when tapped.

Repair of a badly delaminated boat can difficult and uneconomic

As with any other wood, ply will need to be protected from the elements with a coat of paint or varnish.

Where the ply has been coated with epoxy, the epoxy will need to be coated to protect it from UV light.

Any cuts or abrasions in the glass skin will inevitably expose the plywood.

Moisture will then wick up into the plywood and getting trapped between the glass skins.

Any damage to coating must be touched as soon as possible.

To protect softwood ply from checking when it has been bent it may be necessary to apply a light fabric coating to the skin.

Take care when sanding ply as the top veneer will be thin too much scraping or sanding will expose the lower unattractive layers.

Like any materials you use, plywood should be properly stored and handled.

Protect the edges and ends of panels during handling.

Keep it dry and clean.

Stack panels flat on stringers or other blocking to help stop panels from warping.

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Can You Put Yacht Varnish Over Wood Stain? (A Detailed Guide)

If youre looking to give your wood surfaces a beautiful finish, you may be considering yacht varnish .

But can you put yacht varnish over wood stain? This article will give you all the details you need to make an informed decision.

Well discuss what yacht varnish is, its benefits, the proper preparation and application steps, and how to care for and maintain the results.

Read on to learn more about how yacht varnish can be used to give your wood surfaces a beautiful finish.

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Yes, you can put yacht varnish over wood stain.

Yacht varnish is a long-lasting, clear topcoat that provides protection to the underlying layer of wood stain.

It is important to make sure the wood stain is completely dry before applying the yacht varnish.

Additionally, it is best to lightly sand the surface of the wood prior to applying the varnish in order to ensure better adhesion.

What is Yacht Varnish?

Yacht varnish is a type of varnish specifically designed to provide extra protection against the elements for wooden boats and other outdoor wooden surfaces.

It is a combination of resins, oils, and solvents that is often applied as a topcoat to wood surfaces to help protect them against the elements.

Yacht varnish is usually made with marine-grade, UV-resistant resins, which are designed to resist the harsh marine environment and provide a longer-lasting finish.

The oil component helps to penetrate deep into the wood, while the solvents evaporate quickly, leaving behind a durable and attractive finish.

Yacht varnish is typically applied in thin coats, and requires a bit more maintenance than other types of varnish, but it can provide a longer-lasting and more durable finish than traditional varnishes.

Can You Put Yacht Varnish Over Wood Stain?

Yes, you can put yacht varnish over wood stain, and it can be a great way to protect your outdoor wooden surfaces.

Yacht varnish is specifically designed to provide extra protection against the elements and is more durable than traditional varnishes.

However, it is important to make sure that the wood stain is completely dry before applying the varnish, as the varnish will not adhere properly if the wood stain is still wet.

When applying yacht varnish over wood stain, you should use a brush or roller to apply the varnish in even strokes.

Start at the top of the surface and work your way down, making sure to cover the entire surface evenly.

If you are using a brush, use long strokes to get an even coat.

You should also be sure to overlap the edges of the wood stain to ensure that the varnish adheres properly and there are no gaps.

Once you have applied the yacht varnish, you should allow it to dry for at least 24 hours before applying a second coat.

This will ensure that the varnish has had time to fully dry and adhere to the wood.

If you are applying a third coat, allow 48 hours of drying time before applying.

It is also important to note that yacht varnish is designed to be used outdoors, so it is best to apply it in a well-ventilated area.

Additionally, you should wear protective gear, such as gloves and a respirator, to protect yourself from the fumes.

By following these steps and making sure that the wood stain is completely dry before applying the varnish, you can rest assured that your outdoor wooden surfaces will be properly protected with yacht varnish.

Benefits of Applying Yacht Varnish Over Wood Stain

Applying yacht varnish over wood stain can provide a number of benefits.

Firstly, the yacht varnish will provide an additional layer of protection against the elements, such as rain, wind, and extreme temperatures.

This will help to keep the wood stain looking its best and extend its life.

Additionally, yacht varnish can also help to enhance the appearance of the wood stain, adding a glossy finish that can make it look more vibrant and inviting.

Yacht varnish can also help to protect the wood from fading due to UV exposure, ensuring that the wood stain will remain vibrant for years to come.

Finally, yacht varnish can help to keep the wood stain from becoming damaged due to mold, mildew, and other environmental factors.

Preparing the Surface

When applying yacht varnish over wood stain, it is important to prepare the surface properly first.

This involves cleaning the wood to remove any dust, dirt, or debris that may be present.

You can do this with a vacuum or a damp rag.

Once the surface is clean, you should sand it lightly to create a smooth finish and remove any roughness.

If the wood stain is still wet, you should wait until it is completely dry before applying the varnish.

If there is any residual stain or sealant left behind after cleaning, it should be removed with a solvent such as denatured alcohol or mineral spirits.

Once the surface is clean, dry, and smooth, you can begin applying the yacht varnish.

Applying the Yacht Varnish

When applying yacht varnish over wood stain, there are a few steps to take to ensure the best results.

First, make sure the wood stain is completely dry before starting.

If the stain is still wet, the varnish will not adhere properly and could cause damage or discoloration to the wood.

Once the wood stain is completely dry, you can begin applying the yacht varnish.

Start by lightly sanding the wood with a fine grit sandpaper to create a smooth surface for the varnish to adhere to.

Then, using a brush or a roller, apply a thin layer of the yacht varnish to the wood.

Make sure to apply the varnish evenly and in the same direction.

Allow the varnish to dry for at least 24 hours before applying a second coat.

Once the second coat is dry, buff the surface with a clean cloth to remove any excess varnish and to create a smooth finish.

Finally, apply a third and final coat of varnish and allow it to dry completely before using the surface.

By following these steps, you can ensure that the yacht varnish adheres properly to the wood stain and provides an extra layer of protection against the elements.

With a little bit of preparation and patience, you can have a beautiful, durable finish that will last for years to come.

Finishing Touches

When it comes to putting the finishing touches on a woodworking project, using yacht varnish over wood stain is an ideal choice.

Yacht varnish is a specialty type of varnish that is specifically designed to provide extra protection against the elements for wooden boats and other outdoor wooden surfaces.

It is more durable than traditional varnishes and can be applied over wood stain to provide an extra layer of protection.

When applying yacht varnish over wood stain, it is important to make sure the wood stain is thoroughly dry before applying the varnish, as the varnish will not adhere properly if the wood stain is still wet.

This is because the wood stain must be completely dry before the varnish can properly seal it.

Additionally, the wood stain should be of a high quality and should be well-mixed prior to application.

Once the wood stain is completely dry, it’s time to apply the yacht varnish.

Yacht varnish can be applied with a brush, a foam applicator, or a sprayer.

It is important to use a brush or foam applicator for small areas, as a sprayer may cause the varnish to be unevenly applied.

Additionally, when applying yacht varnish, it is important to apply thin, even coats in order to prevent drips and runs.

Once the yacht varnish has been applied, it is important to allow the varnish to dry completely before sanding it.

This will ensure that the varnish is thoroughly dry and that it has a good bond with the wood stain.

Once the varnish is dry, it can be sanded with a fine-grit sandpaper in order to remove any imperfections.

Finally, it is important to finish the project with a topcoat of yacht varnish.

This will provide extra protection against the elements and help keep the wood looking beautiful for years to come.

The topcoat should be applied in thin, even coats and allowed to dry completely between coats.

Once the topcoat has been applied, the project is ready to be enjoyed for years to come!.

Maintenance and Care

When it comes to maintaining and caring for wood surfaces that have been treated with yacht varnish over wood stain, it is important to remember that the wood stain needs to be thoroughly dry before applying the varnish.

If the wood stain is not dry, the varnish will not adhere properly and could cause damage to the wood.

Additionally, it is important to ensure that the wood surface is clean and free of dirt and debris before applying yacht varnish.

Dirt and debris can interfere with the adhesion of the varnish and cause it to flake off over time.

Once the yacht varnish has been applied over the wood stain, it is important to take the proper steps to ensure that the varnish remains in good condition.

This includes avoiding direct contact with the varnish, such as by using a cloth or sponge to clean the surface, as this can cause the varnish to become damaged or scratched.

Additionally, it is important to regularly check for any signs of wear or fading on the varnish, as these can indicate that the varnish may need to be reapplied.

Finally, it is important to avoid using harsh chemicals when cleaning the surface, as these can potentially damage the wood or the varnish.

Final Thoughts

Applying yacht varnish over wood stain can provide an extra layer of protection for your wooden surfaces, making them more durable and resilient against the elements.

When applying yacht varnish over wood stain, it is important to make sure the wood stain is thoroughly dry and to follow the instructions carefully.

With the right preparation and proper application, you can ensure a beautiful and long-lasting finish for your wooden surfaces.

So take the time to do your research and get started on your wood varnish project today!.

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

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Looking to prepare your Marine Plywood for outdoor and exterior use?

The very name of   Marine Plywood   immediately gets you thinking about how perfect the product will be for use in water our outdoors in general, and the promise of it being an exterior plywood plays up that idea too. However, what many people don’t realise at first is that Marine Plywood shouldn’t just be bought off the shelf and then immediately submerged in the ocean!

In reality, that’s actually a great way to see your plywood take damage and deteriorate. Despite being labelled both “Marine” and “Exterior” you’re still going to need to do a little bit of work before it ‘s perfectly equipped to take on Mother Nature. This week on the   Plyco Blog   we’re going to be taking you through all the necessary steps you need to take to ensure your Marine Ply will last.

Step 1 – Sanding Your Marine Plywood

The very first thing you’re going to want to do to your Marine Plywood if you’re planning on using it in water or outside is to sand it. Much like any other form of plywood, if you want to stain, paint, or (in this case) seal it, it’s crucial that you sand it down first. Make sure to get both sides of the board and don’t forget about the edges! We recommend using 80-grit sandpaper for this job while having a tack cloth handy will make cleaning up the dust and debris caused by sanding so much easier. Once you’ve cleaned up your sandy mess you’re clear to move into step 2 of the process.

Step 2 – Cover Your Marine Plywood with A Coat

Generally, when sealing or even painting plywood or MDF you’ll only be applying your coats to a single side. This makes sense as most times a single side will be the one that is exposed and therefore it’s unnecessary and often a bit of a waste to cover the whole thing. However, because we want to ensure that we won’t have any problems dealing with water and other weather elements we want to seal the entire sheet so we don’t have any deterioration problems down the line.

For doing this you’re going to want to use a foam brush with some clear, penetrating epoxy. Make sure you saturate the brush and then start spreading the epoxy on the top and side edges, as well as one of the faces – don’t do the bottom edge, otherwise, you won’t be able to allow it to stand and dry! Once it’s all dry you’re free to move onto covering the bottom edge and the other side of your Marine Plywood.

You might be wondering “why use a clear, penetrating epoxy sealer?” Well, the reason is that this sealant is transparent and drives itself deep int your sheet of ply rather than sitting on the surface. You’ll also find that with this sealer you will require less maintenance, as other sealers require more coats and generally need to be reapplied every few years to continue working at the same level of protection.

Step 3 – The More the Merrier

The job is not done after just one coat though! If you really want a perfectly protected piece of Marine Plywood you’re going to need to apply some more coats. The final number of coats you apply is up to you, but a good general rule for those that are inexperienced is that you should apply as many layers of sealer as there are layers of plywood.

In between each coating session you should lightly sand the surfaces. This is performed in order to rough up the ply a little, which makes getting your next coat to apply flawlessly so much easier. After you’ve applied as many coats as necessary you’re done! Your Marine Plywood is now sealed, protected, and ready to face the harshest conditions you can throw at it!

If this tutorial has got you thinking about   Marine Plywood , why not jump over to our online store? You can check out our   Marine Ply , Exterior Plywood and   everything else we have in stock ! You can   order online   from the comfort of your own home   and   get it delivered straight to your door! How easy is that? Not to mention, you’re always welcome to   pay us a visit at our Fairfield showroom   where you can see all of our fabulous products.

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Marine Plywood vs. Regular Plywood: Choosing the Right Material for Your Boat

Overview of Marine Plywood and Regular Plywood

In my 20 years of boating experience, I’ve frequently encountered the decision between using marine plywood and regular plywood for various projects. Understanding the distinctions between the two is crucial for durability and safety onboard.

Marine Plywood:

• Composition: Typically made from hardwood veneers like birch or mahogany, bonded with waterproof adhesives.
• Durability: Designed to withstand moisture and resist rotting, even in constant water exposure scenarios.
• Applications: Ideal for boat decks, docks, and other structures that directly contact water.

Regular Plywood:

• Composition: Constructed from a mix of wood species, bonded with adhesives that may not be waterproof.
• Durability: More susceptible to water damage, can warp or delaminate upon prolonged moisture exposure.
• Applications: Suited for indoor use or applications where water exposure is minimal and temporary.

When selecting plywood for a boat, it’s essential to match the material to the intended use. Although marine plywood might come at a higher cost, its long-term reliability in marine environments often justifies the investment. In my professional judgment, for marine applications, the extra cost of marine plywood pays off through performance and lifespan.

Core Differences Between Marine and Regular Plywood

In my twenty years of boating experience, I’ve learned the importance of choosing the right plywood for the job. Marine and regular plywood serve different purposes, crucially distinguished by their material composition, water resistance, durability, strength, and adherence to specific certifications and standards.

Material Composition

Marine Plywood : I’ve observed that marine plywood is made using high-quality hardwood veneers with no voids, which are layers free of imperfections. Typically, the adhesives used are waterproof and stronger to sustain a marine environment.

Regular Plywood : Contrarily, regular plywood may include a range of wood types, including softwood, and often contains voids within its layers, which can weaken its structure.

Water Resistance

Marine Plywood : In my projects, I rely on marine plywood for its superior water resistance. This plywood does not deteriorate in wet conditions, making it indispensable for boats and marine applications.

Regular Plywood : While there are exterior grades of regular plywood with some water-resistant properties, they do not match the impermeability of marine plywood and should not be exposed to persistent moisture.

Durability and Strength

Marine Plywood : My experience in boat repairs has demonstrated that marine plywood offers enhanced durability and strength due to its high-grade wood and the meticulous construction process it undergoes.

Regular Plywood : It can be sturdy depending on the grade, but regular plywood is generally less resistant to bending, warping, and breaking, especially under stress in moist conditions.

Certifications and Standards

Marine Plywood : Standard certified marine plywood must meet rigorous standards such as BS 1088 or similar, ensuring consistent quality suitable for marine use.

Regular Plywood : This type lacks stringent marine standards, although it may meet other certifications relevant for indoor or less demanding outdoor uses.

Considerations for Using Plywood in Boat Building

In my two decades of experience in boating and working with boat structures, selecting the right type of plywood is crucial. It ensures durability, safety, and overall performance of the vessel.

Suitability for Boat Structures

Marine plywood, which has only two grades: A and B , is designed specifically for the marine environment. My experience has taught me that marine plywood is essential for parts of the boat that require structural integrity due to its high-quality veneers and fewer defects. Regular plywood, with grades going as low as D, is not suited for high-load bearing components.

Exposure to Elements

Boats are constantly exposed to moisture, which can lead to the degradation of materials. Marine-grade plywood is nearly 100% waterproof and ideal for building piers, docks, and boat hulls. On the other hand, regular plywood would need additional sealing and treatment to withstand such conditions, and even then, may not offer the same level of protection against rot and decay.

Required Treatments

Before installing plywood in a boat, certain treatments are necessary. For instance, the application of sealants or resins on marine plywood extends its life expectancy by providing an added barrier against water ingress. Details such as the recommended thickness of plywood for the boat floor and the specific type of sealant can vary depending on the size of the boat and exposure to elements. Regular plywood, even when treated, may not achieve the same longevity or strength as properly treated marine-grade plywood.

Cost Comparison and Availability

As a boat enthusiast with 20 years of experience, I’ve worked extensively with both marine and regular plywood. When it comes to cost and availability, there are distinct differences between the two that are important to weigh when choosing materials for boating projects.

• Cost: Generally, marine plywood is significantly more expensive. Depending on the thickness and quality, prices can range from $70 to over $200 per sheet.
• Availability: It’s not as widely available as regular plywood and may incur shipping charges if it’s not stocked locally.
• Cost: More budget-friendly, a sheet can typically cost between $10 to $50.
• Availability: Quite easy to find at most lumber yards and home improvement stores.

It’s clear that if your project requires exposure to water and durability against harsh marine environments, marine plywood is the better choice despite its higher price point. It’s constructed with waterproof adhesives and often made of hardwoods, which maximizes its resistance to rotting in wet conditions.

On the other hand, if your project is less exposed to the elements or if you’re working within a tight budget, regular plywood can be substituted in non-critical applications. However, it won’t have the same resilience as marine plywood and may not last as long in a marine environment.

Making the right wood selection for your boat depends largely on these factors. Ensure you consider both the immediate cost and long-term value that marine plywood can offer, especially if you’re looking to maintain structural integrity on water.

Maintenance and Lifespan of Marine and Regular Plywood

In my 20 years of boating experience, I’ve learned that maintenance and lifespan are critical factors when choosing between marine and regular plywood for boat construction.

Marine Plywood : This material is specifically designed for water exposure. It’s made with waterproof adhesives and typically has a higher grade of veneer. Proper care is essential; marine plywood should be regularly sealed to prevent water damage.

• Expected Lifespan : With diligent maintenance, it can last 30 to 40 years in marine environments.
• Maintenance Tips : Annual inspections for damage, sealing with quality marine varnish, and storage away from direct sunlight when not in use.

Regular Plywood : More susceptible to water damage but can be used for short-term or light exposure applications. If chosen for outside use, it requires diligent sealing and preventive care.

• Expected Lifespan : If sealed and maintained properly, regular plywood may last 20 to 30 years outside.
• Maintenance Tips : Apply weatherproof coatings, regular inspections, and immediate repair of any damage.

I prefer marine plywood for my boating projects due to its resilience and reliability. Even with its higher cost upfront, the extended longevity and reduced frequency of repairs make it a worthwhile investment.

Environmental Impact of Plywood Use on Boats

In my 20 years of boating experience, I’ve observed various materials used in boat construction and their impacts on the environment. Marine plywood and regular plywood are two such materials, each with different implications for our planet’s health.

Marine plywood is specifically designed for water resistance with fewer defects, meaning longer lifespan and less frequent replacement . This directly translates to a reduction in resource depletion, as boats constructed with marine plywood do not need new plywood as often as those with regular plywood. Additionally, marine plywood’s durability in wet conditions minimizes the leaching of adhesives and chemicals into marine ecosystems.

Regular plywood, conversely, is typically treated with chemicals to enhance durability, which can erode over time , releasing harmful substances into the water. Furthermore, its lower grade variants can degrade quicker, leading to more frequent replacements and, hence, more strain on resources.

I emphasize using materials like marine plywood that favor environmental sustainability. Alternatives suited for marine use should also be explored, as they may offer even better eco-friendly benefits without compromising on performance. Responsible sourcing and material choices can substantially mitigate the environmental impact of our boating practices.

Case Studies: Marine Plywood in Actual Boat Projects

In my two decades of boating experience, I’ve seen countless projects where marine plywood was chosen over regular plywood, each with its own set of considerations and outcomes. Here are a few notable ones:

The decision between marine plywood and regular plywood hinges on several key factors: exposure to moisture, desired durability, and the necessity for a chemical-free material that won’t react adversely with other boat components. In each project, the material’s characteristics shaped the project’s success and reliability.

Frequently Asked Questions

Drawing from my 20 years of boating experience, I’ll address some of the most common inquiries pertaining to the distinction between marine and regular plywood, particularly with regards to boat construction.

What distinguishes marine plywood from regular plywood when used in boat construction?

Marine plywood is engineered for higher resistance to moisture and delamination compared to standard plywood. Its superior quality is achieved by using higher-grade materials and specific types of glues that can withstand humid and wet conditions often encountered in marine environments.

How does marine plywood’s cost compare to that of standard plywood?

The cost of marine plywood is significantly higher than that of regular plywood, with prices ranging from $70 to over $200 a sheet depending on thickness and grade. In contrast, standard plywood can be as economical as $10 to $50 per sheet.

What are the primary considerations when selecting plywood for a boat floor?

When selecting plywood for a boat floor, durability and resistance to water are crucial. Marine plywood provides a smoother surface and uses a better grade of wood , ensuring longevity against the constant exposure to moisture and movement inherent to marine conditions.

Where is the best place to purchase marine grade plywood?

Marine grade plywood is not as readily available as regular plywood and may require purchasing from specialized marine supply stores or ordering online from reputable vendors . Always ensure the plywood conforms to the required marine standards.

What are the potential drawbacks of using marine plywood in marine environments?

While marine plywood is designed to perform well in wet conditions, it is heavier and more expensive than regular plywood. Additionally, if not properly sealed, the edges and surfaces can still be susceptible to moisture penetration , eventually leading to rot.

Is marine grade plywood necessary for all parts of a boat, or are there exceptions?

Not all parts of a boat require marine grade plywood. Areas that are not directly exposed to moisture or that have adequate protection and sealing may use regular plywood as a cost-saving measure. However, critical areas exposed to the elements should always utilize marine grade materials for safety and integrity.

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How to Seal Marine Grade Plywood

Written by Scott Legros

The many layers of Marine Grade Plywood are held together with waterproof adhesive, allowing the wood to withstand direct contact with water. Since it’s the ideal wood for moist or wet conditions, it’s often used to craft boats, boat parts, or outdoor furniture in coastal areas. By properly sealing this type of wood, you can increase its overall lifespan and make it last for years to come.

Before you get started, gather the following materials:

• Soft cloths or paper towels
• Clear, penetrating epoxy
• Foam brush or roller
• Clean the Surface

Dip a paper towel or soft cloth in acetone and wipe down the surface of the wood to remove grease or other stains. Allow the acetone to dry completely for 1-2 hours before you move on to the next step.

2. Sand the Wood

Like other types of wood, you need to sand marine plywood before you seal, stain, or paint it. Go over both sides of the wood, including edges, with 80-grit sandpaper. Wipe away all dust and particles with a soft cloth.

3. Apply the First Coat

Since marine plywood is typically used underwater, you’ll need to treat every surface of the wood with sealant. We prefer clear, penetrating epoxy because it works its way deep into the wood, dries transparent, and requires less maintenance than other types of sealant. You could use marine-grade sealer, but this will require more coats and must be reapplied every 3 to 4 years.

Dip your foam brush or roller into the sealant. Apply it to the wood, starting with the top and side edges and moving to the front face. Allow the epoxy to dry completely before flipping it over and applying it to the bottom edge and back of the wood.

4. Add Additional Coats

Marine plywood is thicker than typical plywood, so you’ll need to apply more coats to maximize its lifespan. A good rule of thumb is to add as many coats of sealant as there are in the plywood. That means if your plywood has 7 layers of wood, you should add 7 layers of sealant. Gently scuff up the wood with sandpaper between each coat for maximum adhesion, and be sure to wipe off any dust before adding the next layer.

Not sure which kind of wood to use on your next project? At Forest Plywood, we’ve compared marine plywood cost and characteristics to help you choose the perfect type.

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Marine Plywood – Knowing The Basics

Marine plywood is a great sheet material that can be easily cut using both hand saws and basic power tools. Marine plywood is often used to build boat interiors and to replace flooring during boat renovations .  But why do we have to use plywood specifically made for the marine environment and are we wasting our money on expensive ‘marine’ plywood when outdoor grade ply may work just as well?

I’m currently working on an 18ft fibreglass fishing boat that has been totally gutted by the previous owner. The boat is currently a ghostly empty shell with nothing but a loose BMC 1.5 engine. With help, the engine has now been moved to the back of the boat in preparation for the rebuild of the boat’s interior. Although it’s a fibreglass boat, it will still require a plywood floor that will need to be reinforced with fibreglass matting. This is to protect it against the elements and to also form a waterproof structural bond to the hull of the boat. It would be a pretty awful to be in a capsized boat but imagine the floor conking you on the head as well if it wasn’t attached. With this in mind,  I took to searching the internet for the solution.

Table of Contents

What makes marine plywood so special?

Whilst planning the renovation of my fishing boat my first thought was; why would I need a marine grade plywood when it is going to be coated in resin+ and fibreglassed when it’s finished? Surely if the wood is not exposed then the material lying underneath doesn’t need to be water resistant?

The main issue with using a non-marine plywood is the eternal problem of time. Given sufficient time and use it may be that the protective fibreglass layer becomes damaged allowing water to permeate the surface and begin to rot the underlying plywood. If the plywood is required structurally then this becomes a messy problem indeed. Your floor will begin to sag and rot through. You lose the strength of the plywood backing over time meaning that the fibreglass is then vulnerable to cracks and structural damage. Unless a large amount of fibreglass matting has been used with a good amount of strength then your floor could potentially fail. In theory and like most things in life the more you spend the better your product will be and the longer it will last.

So why not skip the plywood and just fibreglass? 

Fibreglass can easily provide enough strength to support the weight of a person without the use of ply, but the amount of matting needed to create a floor would cost a considerable amount more than simply fibreglassing over plywood.  

Without the use of moulds,  you will always need a backing or core material to laminate over. This is why marine plywood has been the boat builders choice for many years. 

So what are we paying for?

Marine Plywood offers high resistance to water, fungus and damp. It is composed of durable face and core veneers and should be free of voids. Essentially you are paying for the time it will last when exposed to harsh environments.  Some ply is guaranteed for 15 and 25 years depending on where and what you purchase. Marine ply uses a waterproof higher grade of glue in between the layers of veneer which also has less imperfections than standard plywood, and is marked with ‘BS 1088’  meaning:

“BS1088 is the British Standard specification for marine plywood that applies to plywood produced with untreated tropical hardwood veneers that have a set level of resistance to fungal attack. The plies are bonded with Weather Boil-Proof (WBP) glue.”

Although this stamp is said to be the seal of approval, there have been various arguments over the years regarding the quality variance. A reader submitted a photo of a piece of so-called ‘marine plywood’ that he recently purchased. It can be seen above the Illustration 1 caption. Don’t worry there are some ways to test the quality of your plywood (at your own risk of course!):

• Cut some small samples and leave them in the dishwasher for a few cycles.
• Simmer samples in hot water for a few days to see if they delaminate.

With these factors now in mind, it is possible to find cheaper alternatives and more importantly available alternatives.  It’s all good and well only wanting to use marine plywood but if none of your local building supply store’s sell it, then you won’t get very far!

Exterior grade plywood

Exterior grade plywood is a good alternative to marine ply. Whilst exterior ply may not be pre-sanded and visually free of imperfections, it should still use 100% waterproof glue and should be suitable for permanent exposure to outdoor environments.  Exterior ply may also have voids in between the layers that aren’t immediately visible. The only way of truly knowing is by peeling back the layers and inspecting. But all things considered, you shouldn’t go out buying (or building for that matter) without prior research. In the United Kingdom some building suppliers, for example Jewsons, have marine plywood listed on their website. Further investigation however, shows that the marine plywood is in fact not suitable for boat building (their words). Yeh that’s right a product labelled as marine plywood that is not suitable for boat building – like a kitchen knife not suitable for chopping vegetables or a TV that doesn’t show sports! You should always research or run your own tests on a few samples before burning your supplies budget on a bunch of a useless sheet materials.

To summarise you should always research or run your own tests on a few samples before burning your supplies budget on a bunch of a poor quality ply sheets. With boat building ,you need to get as high a quality as you can afford but make sure its actual quality your buying and not just a name. Don’t think that plywood is poor quality because it comes from abroad, plywood is manufactured all over the world tropical woods being some of the best ?   Above is a picture of sundried eucalyptus plywood basking in the sun in full glory.

How Marine Plywood Is Manufactured

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGnr8ATHHX8

Photos Of Plywood Delamination And Rot

Photo A shows the direct result of not sealing the end of a fibreglass boat deck where it meets the well. The end grain has been exposed meaning water has crept between the plywood and fibreglass over time. The end result is the entire floor is now spongy and most likely rotten. The floor will need to be cut out and replaced.

Photo B shows the direct result of water ingress on a plywood cabin side. The top layer of paint is still bonded incredibly well to the plywood but unfortunately the plywood itself has split apart. This may have been caused by a window that sits above this area. Water has got in over time through a poorly window bedded frame.

Photo C is a perfect example of plywood delamination at it’s worst. The damage most like occurred where people have been grabbing onto the arch to get onto the boat. Once a crack or break in the substrate occurred water has then been allowed to permeate into the walls. The underlying floor has also been effected majorly.

Photo D is a piece of plywood from the floor of a boat wreck. Note that even though the plywood has been snapped and left exposed to rain and wind it still holds its integrity. This was located underneath a faux teak floor meaning that it is most likely the original plywood used to build the floor of the boat. Perhaps this is why it still in better condition than it’s modern counterparts that surround it.

Photo E shows us an example of plywood delaminating even while the boat sits out of the water. The above plywood was labelled as “marine”. This second world war torpedo boat was recently restored , the ends of the plywood were sealed but the water still permeated into the floor causing it to rot. The result is a floor that feels spongy to touch.

In Photograph F above we can see that the underlying plywood has started to delaminate. The paint is completely failing to adhere to the plywood substrate and subsequently peeling off. Once water is allowed to permeate the plywood it begins to rot. This causes the paint to flake off in large chunks, along with layers of rotten ply.

Tony – Wooden Boat Builder from São Paulo, Brazil. “I asked for samples from 3 major manufacturers here in Brazil. My testing involved boiling for 3 hours – 4 times. Between boiling sessions, samples were frozen for one night. At the end, a microwave session until starting to smoke. All samples marked wbp survived the tests. The final choice was based on a higher number of plys /veneers per thickness. But the test of time will be much harder, and I don’t believe any plywood will survive it without constant verification and maintenance.”

Tertius – Wooden Boat Builder from Knysna, Western Cape I also switched to exterior grade after faults in BS1088 grade. But yes…boil it a couple off times and look carefully for voids and overlaps. It’s easier being a boatbuilder to fix and make an informative decision. After all, how long do I want it to last! A friend of mine used exterior grade pine ply. He took it for pressurised Tanalith treatment. Any faults in the board made it explode.

James Draper – Sanderscore Craftsman The preparation of Plywood surfaces is often key to the longevity of the plywood. By sanding and properly prepping a piece of marine plywood, the substrate stands a better chance of surviving the often harsh conditions of the marine environment. Protect the wood with suitable marine quality paint, but don’t skip on the preparation, keying the surface is fundamental.

Robert from Portland , Connecticut, US – You can use resin thinned down with acetone so that it becomes very watery seeping deep into the pores of the wood and sealing them. Then lightly sand and repeat until the wood grains are filled with the resin. Coating plywood like this will keep water from being able to enter. This is a trick used by manufactures to seal plywood that works quite well.

29 thoughts on “Marine Plywood – Knowing The Basics”

Any questions then feel free to get in touch ?

Where can I buy it in Co. Galway

About 25 years ago I thought I would build a broadbill duck hunting boat. So I did. Using marine plywood. I still have the boat but is in rough condition not keeping up with repairs as needed. One thing I have learned in my 67 years is that all things expand and contract at different rates. Wood and fiberglass in hot summers and frozen cold winters. Once a crack develops all he’ll breaks loose.

i HAVE REBUILT THE WOODEN CACIN ON MY 21′ FISHING BOAT, USING “MARINE PLY”. BUT AFTER ONLY A COUPLE OF WEEKS THE PLY IS GOING BLACK IN PATCHES EVEN THOUGH I TREATED THE CUT ENDS ETC WITH LINSEED OIL AND VARNISHED OVER, IT’S DRIVING ME MAD.

Good side up or down?

A good all round summary. but let me warn everyone. Most hardwood marineply that is manufactured in asia fails. I.E. it delaminates, mostly in the centre of the sheet, so you don’t find it untill it becomes a big problem. It is also very heavy and dense and is not terribly successful when trying to get a good bond with fibreglass sheathing. be it epoxy, Vinylester or polyester resin being used. Here in Australia there is a lot of Malaysian hardwood marineply being sold with the BS 1088 certification on it that falls to bits. We call it the Bull Shit 1088 marine ply. so my advice would be to buy a good Quality Hoop pine or maple marine ply, pay the extra for Gaboon ( light weight ), and avoid the cheap hardwood imports.I have been building high speed laminated (cold moulded ) timber planing craft for the past 45 years and have a reasonable knowledge on the subject.

Any referral to a better ply dealer

May be you should try and go check the marine plywood produced by SMIP-Dragonbrand, I think you won’t find that problems again.

thanks Graeme, where can i buy the good quality marine plywood for my boat flooring? i have an area of 2400×2400 on the cabin deck that i am replacing. i live in Sydney and please help me make contact with the right supplier.

Nice article, only I have built plywood boats up to 60 ft, using only quality untreated plywood, these boats are coast Guard approved as commercial passenger use, just prep it by grinding the waxy outer layer and glue it up, my boats were built in the 80s and still alive today, running tours in Hawaii, Florida, Virginia islands, Bahamas,

I agree with you William Austin A good quality softer wood marine ply can be prepped with a coarse sanding before the glassing but a dense hardwood ply is no where near as successfull.

Especially with west system epoxy warmned up to lower it’s viscous state so it permeates the substrate using extra slow hardener for maximum penetration.

We use an epoxy with an open time of 9 hours when we have a heavy laminate to get together in one hit. gives you time to have lunch half way through the job.

Well I have finally encountered another boater that knows what the he’ll he’s talking about , ….keep it up Graeme there’s a lot of misinformation going on out there

I’m under the impression Marine Grade Plywood used to require it be 100% free of voids, but I read a while back that standard was lowered to 80% void free. Does this jive with what you all are seeing when you buy sheets of it? Just wondering why the change?

you have to think carefully about what you are using the ply for. some things to consider: 1. it is untreated timber, so you must seal it VERY well or it will rot out real quick. 2. Every time I have lifted glass from a ply deck or cabin more than 10 years old, there has been a disconcerting amount of mush in there, coming from delaminations in stressed areas like around winches and cleats, also fastening holes, etc. 3. The laminations in marine grade ply are very thin particularly when you start getting down around 6mm, so consider how they will wear. 4. I know a lot of builders who are moving to heavily treated exterior grade construction ply for decks, or deck underlays etc which will be exposed to rain, and is a lot more resilient to fresh water and the problems it brings (remember salt water in the bilge is a good thing for planked boats, but it still condenses fresh!). Marine grade ply does however bring good strength and dimensional stability, so great for hulls. However I’ve seen good results with plain old exterior grade H- series treated timber. 5. Anyone can put a BS 1088 stamp on something, as it isn’t a proper standard any more, it’s basically just there for show: BS being the operative part of that equation! I’ve had stuff with that stamp delaminate almost immediately – even under white “marine grade” paint.

The main advantages of marine plywood are only utilized IF (!) the epoxied glass cloth is cracked, that means the epoxy soaked plywood AND the glass cloth AND the fill coat are all cracked. And what are the chances this will happen without the user fixing it before any internal damage appears ? VERY VERY SLIM CHANCE. And to support my opinion: Strip built kayaks and boats are not built with “Marine wood”, they are built with any wood, and the strips are glued with regular carpenters’ glue (and not any fancy “marine” glue). The strength comes from epoxy/glass encapsulation which also seals the wood. Stitch and Glue kayaks can be built with regular good quality plywood (not “marine”) and they will be wonderful long lasting boats. I built my 1st Stitch and Glue kayak using BS-1088 plywood because that’s what everybody are doing. I now know better and on my next boat I will save $$$ with regular good quality plywood.

My only issue with this post is that it is too optimistic about “real” marine plywood (BS1088 or better). While BS1088 requires high-quality wood and heat-resistant glues, it is still WOOD. As such, it MUST be protected from water intrusion. Real marine ply resists rot only very slightly better than the cheapest stuff in your local lumberyard. It’s benefits are in strength (no voids, many more plys at a given thickness, and for some types, lighter weight). No matter what wood you use in a boat, you must either do it the old way (use more and thicker wood so that even after it is half-rotted it is still strong enough to function as a boat (not really recommended except for historical restorations); or SEAL the WOOD completely! I have restored 12 boats (including my own), and have built 3 small boats. I strongly suggest Encapsulating (developing a total seal) rather than just Coating (slapping on some epoxy). I use three coats of good epoxy on ALL endgrain (Any cut in plywood is endgrain). I use at least two coats on all other surfaces. Note that one should apply 2nd and later layers between “fingerprint and fingernail” so that you end up with a chemical bond between All layers (creating one solid piece) rather than just separate coats, one over the other. Yes, I always use fiberglass or xynole polyester. Enough ranting, hope this is useful. ( BTW: “Fingerprint” occurs early in the cure process… it is when you can firmly touch the epoxy and leave a fingerprint, but it does Not stick to your finger. “Fingernail” occurs later in the process and means the point where you can still barely indent the curing epoxy with a fingernail but cannot break through.)

Very good commentary, especially liked the fingerprint fingernail test. What i think is missed by a lot of people is that the raw materials the plywoods are made of have deteriorated significantly over the years. 40 years ago a BS 1088 sheet would probably have been fabricated in an established plywood plant using old growth woods for the plywood layers. Today most of those plants are out of business and most of the raw materials are less than 20 years old. That tropical hardwood core will come from an immature tree and as such has not the longevity or rot resistance of a mature tree

Thanks for the comment Sam, some really interesting points to consider. Due to a lack of good affordable sources for marine plywoood i’m now using composite sheeting that I laminate myself with really good results.

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boats in general, and more so with pontoon boats, there are only so many ways to build a boat, and very few material choices.

the big differences tend to be in floor layouts, how the interior or the deck is laid out. what type of seats, and where are they. and in what powers it, which can be different between two of the same make, model and year depending on what the dealership that sold it dealt with. mercury is the most common one, having more sales then anybody else has that effect.

but even if two of same make, model and year both have the same brand powering it, the hull may be rated for 90 hp and one of them the person buying it paid for the 90 hp while the other one only got the cheaper 60 hp.

What’s the best way to prep a pontoon floor (plywood of course) in order to lay peel & stick closed-cell foam pads such as SeaDeck?

Thanks for explaining how fiberglass in wood can easily support the weight of a person. I’d like to get some wood for a project I am planning. I’ll see what I can do about using fiberglass wood.

Thank you for the info for which I was looking for answers as I shall be repairing my fiberglass boat soon.

I researched some marine plywood suppliers around and the best wood sort available here seem to be the ones with birch wood imported from Russia/Ukraine and the beech wood from Türkiye. Both plywoods are manufactured locally and my reference producer seems to have good reputation (I used another product of them and was very content).

Similar to your Jewsons case, though both are named “marine”, for some reason only the Beech is specked for boat use and the birch is not (the “boat” is simply missing. Not sure if accidental omission).

When I check their data on pressure resistance, bending resistance, cutting resistance, density etc, Birch seems to be faring better.

Any experiences with either sort of wood in boat use? Thanks

Forgot to mention. Both plywood sorts are produced locally in Türkiye, for that reason I mentioned no brands.

Cost of 6 sheets of marine plyboard for my pontoon boat.

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A Practical Approach to Cabin Sole Finish

You don't have to sacrifice beauty for safety belowdeck..

The challenge with finishing a veneer-and-plywood sole is finding a product that offers long-lasting protection for the wood and gives a secure footing when the cabin sole is wet. Varnishes suitable for protection and durability do not have intrinsically good nonskid characteristics.

Faced with this dilemma, we recommend using a satin-finish, one-part polyurethane varnish to protect the thin veneer and plywood, and adding some nonskid aggregate to the final coats to reduce the slippery-when-wet effect. If you don’t want to use the aggregate on the whole sole, at least add it in when finishing the areas at the base of the companionway and outside the head, where a sole is most likely to get wet.

For brush-on applications, PS editors have had good luck with Interlux’s polyurethane Goldspar Satin, Pettit’s Z-Spar Captains 2067 (clear) or 1015 (amber), and Epifanes High Gloss. The products also have scored well in past Practical Sailor varnish tests for weathering outdoors, so they should have an even longer life in a cabin.

Wood-finish makers echoed our recommendations, and advised that if you opt to go with a high-gloss varnish like the Epifanes High Gloss or Interlux Schooner , be sure to use a flattening agent with it, or, in the case of Epifanes, replace the two final coats with the company’s Rubbed Effect Interior Varnish . Having a satin or matte finish helps to minimize slipping.

According to Interlux, Cetol products can be used on soles, but in our opinion, the relatively soft coatings will not offer enough protection for veneer, and given the amount of traffic a cabin sole sees, they would not wear well.

For aggregate options, you have a few choices. We recommend using salt or crushed walnut shell powder with varnish, rather than the canned aggregate sold by marine paint makers and often used with deck paints. Others prefer pumice or finely ground sand. Both the walnut shell and salt methods are easy to touch up and re-apply.

You can find ground walnut shell powder at larger boat yards, paint supply companies, and Harbor Freight. To use it: After building up a uniform series of base coats (usually six to eight coats, with the first ones thinned some) and letting it cure, place strips of -inch masking tape over the centerline of the -inch holly strips, and then mix the powder in the final coat of varnish. This results in nonskid stripes that are near in color to the teak, with enough of the sole left glossy to add a warm feel to the cabin. If you plan to add this or any other nonskid material to a finish, be sure to run it by the varnish companys technical crew before applying it.

Adding salt to a varnish finish is a little different. First, build up a good protective base, and allow it to cure completely. Then, mask off the areas to be made nonskid, and lay on a heavy coat of the same finish. Heavily sprinkle it with coarse salt; we use a grinder held 2 to 3 feet above the surface. Start with a light coat, moving back and forth until a uniform coating is obtained. Once the coating dries, rinse away the salt crystals with fresh water. Because its water-soluble, the salt disappears, leaving a surface stippled with tiny indentation where the crystals once were. This offers traction without taking away from the finish.

If you have the luxury of applying the finish with the sole out of the boat, take the opportunity to build up a very good base for protection. The more coats you put on, the better the protection. Also, do a few test patches on scrap veneer with salt and with walnut powder to see which you prefer aesthetically.

Cabin soles are a challenge to re-do. Do a maintenance coat once every year or two to get longer life out of the finish and hopefully avoid a full takedown for many years.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

I’m planning to replace the weathered teak and holly sole with a new one very soon. My approach will be to coat both sides and all edges with West System epoxy followed by three coats of varnish on the sole’s top. Any comments?

Whaf, no mention of Awlwood?

At our boatyard, we use Smith’s Clear Penetrating Epoxy as an initial sealer coat on the substrate before adding any type of finish varnish product. This stuff soaks into the wood, adding a layer of protection and when lightly sanded, allows for excellent adhesion to any of the aforementioned varnishes.

Nice job Son, can’t wait to see the finished shop.

Whatever is used; I still find it cracks. A boat moves

I have a worn sole that I am thinking of refinishing it. Are there any articles I can source from previous installments of Practical Sailor?

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What’s The Best Varnish For Your Yacht?

Written by Abigail Meadow - Tuesday, June 01, 2021

Varnishing your yacht is essential to protect it from the elements and preserve its longevity. As wood is a natural product, it’ll break down and become damaged when exposed to moisture, general pollution, and UV rays. Varnish creates a barrier against all of these things, gives your yacht a beautiful finish and makes it easier to clean.

The best way to prevent damage to your boat is to touch up any breakage in the wood as soon as you notice it. Doing this will prevent water from soaking into the wood. Generally, it’s good to varnish your yacht every one to two years.

However, varnishing isn't a simple task, as there’s a large selection of boat varnishes to choose from. Gaining an understanding of the qualities of different types of varnish is essential so you can choose the ideal one for your boat.

Here, we reveal which varnish is best suited to your yacht.

1. How to varnish

Wood must be sanded before finishing – slow and steady is the way to go with sanding. Don’t dig into lower grooves, as it’s important to create even layers when sanding. Otherwise, when the varnish sits on top, it won’t have the professional finish you’re looking for.

When you’re finished sanding, wipe any excess dust with a super soft brush, as you don’t want to varnish over small sharp wood. Some woods, such as teak, are rich in natural oils, so it’s a good idea to wipe the wood with a solvent such as acetone after the final round of sanding. This dissolves the surface oils and helps with finish adhesion.

Once you’ve finished sanding, use a paintbrush and coat the wood in the varnish. It’s important to be precise with varnish and coat every part of the wood thoroughly.

2. Choosing the right finish

Some woods such as teak, cedar, and oak can be left unfinished. These woods are decay-resistant, but adding a varnish finishing enhances its appearance, so most owners still choose to use varnish.

Tropical hardwoods such as cocobolo and lignum vitae are difficult to finish with varnish, as oil-based varnishes won't dry properly when placed on top. If you have a teak deck, it's best to leave it bare, but you should clean the surface regularly with liquid soap or a specific teak deck cleaner. Don't use a stiff or wire brush or rub with the grain when you clean, as this is too harsh. Avoid the temptation to pressure wash your yacht, as doing this will damage and weaken the wood.

The advantage of unfinished wood is that you’ll never have to refinish it; if installed properly, it can last years. Most boat owners prefer the sheen of an oil or film finish, even though this is unnecessary.

3. Tung Oil Varnish

Tung oil boat varnish is what some yacht owners refer to as the classic varnish. It’s referred to in this way because if you’re unsure of what your boat needs, this is a classic, middle of the road, safe bet.

The base and main ingredient of tung varnish is a natural oil, mixed with other things such as solvents, resins, and UV protectors. This type of varnish is flexible and can protect the wood from water, staining, and heat damage.

Over time, however, this type of varnish will crack off the surface, at which point you’ll need to recover the boat in varnish again.

4. One-part polyurethane varnish

Today, most varnishes use blends of synthetic resins such as polyurethane, phenolic, or alkyd polyester. Polyurethane is also known as urethane and is more durable than the other resins.

One-part polyurethane varnish produces just as good a finished result as tung oil and offers the same amount of protection, but is much more durable. Due to its strength, this type of varnish is often used for interior wood flooring.

Due to its rigidity, one-part polyurethane shouldn’t be used on highly flexible areas such as spars, as it can crack and be rendered useless.

5. Two-part polyurethane boat varnish

This varnish consists of two products that have to be mixed. Such as an epoxy resin – listed below, and polyurethane varnish.

This type of varnish is extremely tough, offers very good protection from moisture and UV damage, and helps protect areas prone to damage.

Two-component polyurethane coatings offer better results than single-component ones. In fact, they can guarantee greater resistance to abrasion and chemical agents, high durability, and higher conservation of the coating film.

Again, due to its hardness, two-part polyurethane boat varnish shouldn’t be used on highly flexible woo. That’s because it could crack, leaving room for water to damage the wood.

6. Epoxy resin

Epoxy resin can be used to coat timber, but it generally has poor resistance to UV light. Usually, another varnish tends to be applied over the top, as boats are exposed to a high level of UV rays, especially in the summer months.

At this point, we should advise you to beware of inexpensive yacht varnish sold in various DIY shops . Lower prices are usually an indication of extended drying times or poor long-term performance when on the water.

Specialist yacht insurance from Insure4Boats

Of course, there’s more than one way of taking care of your vessel. One of the most important forms of protection for your yacht is insurance – this is where we come in.

After taking such good care of your vessel and varnishing it to perfection, it’s vital to protect it if any issues occur. Our specialist yacht insurance covers the damage and theft of your yacht and includes Personal Accident cover if you have suffered a serious injury as a result of an accident whilst out at sea.

What’s more, as part of the  Ripe Guarantee , we promise to provide you with great cover and fantastic service at the best possible price. We let you tailor your policy, so you’ll never pay for more than the cover you need.

Find out more about our specialist yacht insurance here .

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Painting MDO Plywood?

• Thread starter minuteman62-64
• Start date Jan 4, 2014

minuteman62-64

• Jan 4, 2014

Planning to use new MDO plywood for decking over the bow section of my boat. Original seats were MDO plywood, appeared to be painted with an oil based paint w/o primer. Held up well for 30+ years. I re-painted one of these with good quality oil based paint (with out primer) and that (applied over a well aged MDO surface) is holding up well. I can't tell if the manufacturer scuffed up the MDO finish prior to paint application. I have also had excellent results using Rustoleum oil based paint, as well as the oil based paint I've been using on my boat, applied directly on regular plywood (w/o primer). So, I'm wondering, when I paint this bow decking, with a brand new MDO surface, primer yes or no? Scuff the MDO surface prior to paint application? I should add, the guys who sold me the oil based paint I've been using (it is called "Aro-Plate II, SG" by Frazee) said no primer necessary over plywood as long as I'm not aiming for a smooth sanded surface. Appreciate input, particularly from you guys with experience painting over MDO surfaces.  

Vice Admiral

Re: Painting MDO Plywood? Might be just me,but I would not have it within 30 yards of my boat.  

crabby captain john

Lieutenant commander.

grub1grub2 said: might be just me,but i would not have it within 30 yards of my boat. Click to expand...

grub1grub2 said: Might be just me,but I would not have it within 30 yards of my boat. Click to expand...

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian

Supreme Mariner

minuteman62-64 said: What would be the issue? A lot of the aluminum boat manufactures (Westcoaster, Valco, etc.) routinely use MDO for seats/decks. Click to expand...

Re: Painting MDO Plywood? Agreed,mdf/mdo are different. I personally don't like either one. Mdo,harder to use staples if need be (for upolstry) , mdf,just rotten bad news,and as stated ^ heavier. Grub  

gm280 said: Before redoing your deck with MDO, do you realize just how heavy that stuff is? I would go with a quality exterior type plywood route and save the weight. Weight is a true killer on most any type boat to get the power out of the motor. Just a thought... Click to expand...

Fleet Admiral

Re: Painting MDO Plywood? MDO is one of the best plywoods you can get for boat building. I would sand the surface before painting, I don't like to paint on top of anything slick and shiny. Sand with 150 or 120 grit and just dull the finish, the paint will bond better. Paint the edges until they're completely sealed and closed up. For your elevated you only need to paint the exposed to and edges, but it won't hurt to do both sides if you want.  

jigngrub said: MDO is one of the best plywoods you can get for boat building. I would sand the surface before painting, I don't like to paint on top of anything slick and shiny. Sand with 150 or 120 grit and just dull the finish, the paint will bond better. Paint the edges until they're completely sealed and closed up. For your elevated you only need to paint the exposed to and edges, but it won't hurt to do both sides if you want. Click to expand...

Bob_VT said: Keep in mind when original manufacturers used the MDO it was with a planned lifespan and not made to last "Forever" Click to expand...

minuteman62-64 said: I just turned 73. How long does it need to last? Click to expand...

• Jan 5, 2014

Re: Painting MDO Plywood? Cant even think about using it. Some people on here started talking it up so i had to try it out on a job and learn about it. Everybody has a opinion and mine is not a chance. Also wasnt it figured out that the stuff used by those builders was a special order item. Transoms of mdo oh my!  

Re: Painting MDO Plywood? Craig, your the only 1 I've ever heard that wasn't happy w/ MDO, for any use, marine or otherwise, and how great it is to work w/.... To avoid hijacking this thread, I'd love a PM w/ a link to your thread or info about how you used & the difficulty you had using MDO.  

Master Chief Petty Officer

NSBCraig said: Cant even think about using it. Some people on here started talking it up so i had to try it out on a job and learn about it. Everybody has a opinion and mine is not a chance. Also wasnt it figured out that the stuff used by those builders was a special order item. Transoms of mdo oh my! Click to expand...

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014

Re: Painting MDO Plywood? I'm for the sand it first. Actually I like to use a wire brush with a handle on it to lightly scuff the surface, then run a palm sander with 180g to knock the loose stuff off and finish by wiping off the dust. I do however always use a good oil based primer as a base coat, I think it just makes the final product look better too.  

Watermann said: I'm for the sand it first. Actually I like to use a wire brush with a handle on it to lightly scuff the surface, then run a palm sander with 180g to knock the loose stuff off and finish by wiping off the dust. I do however always use a good oil based primer as a base coat, I think it just makes the final product look better too. Click to expand...

• Jan 6, 2014

minuteman62-64 said: I'll be doing a splatter paint job (to match the existing paint), which will result in a rough-textured finish. So, I won't need a primer coat for an ultra smooth finish. Based on responses it appears I won't need primer for top coat adhesion as long as I sand the resin surface. Click to expand...

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Wood Sealer Varnish Primer

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Wood Sealer fills the grain, seals the wood, and levels the surface for consistent, beautiful finishes

The goal of restoring a wooden boat, building a piece of wood furniture, or creating a wooden work of art is to make the wood itself look great, and make sure it stays that way for as long as possible – regardless of the type of wood, and whether it’s indoors or out. Especially if it’s outdoors, and the varnish finish will be exposed to sun, salt, and harsh weather. Make 1-part varnish finishes look better and last longer by coating new or bare wood with TotalBoat Wood Sealer first. It seals the wood fibers and fills the grain to smooth out the surface, removing highs and lows so varnish can be applied to a uniformly level surface, without thinning first. TotalBoat Wood Sealer has a light amber color that enhances the natural beauty of bare wood. If the wood is stained, marine wood stains typically only fill the wood grain and change the color, but don’t seal the wood. So you still need to apply a sealer before finishing. TotalBoat Wood Sealer can seal in the color of stained wood without muddling, just be sure the stained surface is completely dry before applying the sealer, and do a small test first to ensure compatibility.

Seals all types of wood effectively

Plywood is used in so many projects, from building decks to building docks. It’s very porous and is infamous for checking – those long, thin cracks running lengthwise in the wood grain. They’re caused because wood starts drying on the outside first. This creates tension, which can spawn lengthwise splits on the surface of a board, either on the flat face, the end, or internally. Plywood must be sealed before being varnished or painted to prevent checking and delamination of any finish coating. Sealing also primes the wood surface, which has two benefits. First, it prevents the finish coats of varnish or paint from sinking into the wood, which prevents you from paying more because you’d have to use more product. Second, this thin varnish primer also bonds to the wood and creates a level foundation for finish coats of varnish to bond to, so they don’t lift in large sections later. Keep in mind that because plywood is so porous, it may require 3 coats of TotalBoat Wood Sealer. In addition, oily hardwoods like teak and mahogany also need to be sealed to prevent their natural oils from lifting varnish or paint coatings. After properly preparing new or bare wood to remove any oil, grease, dust, or dirt, apply 2 coats of TotalBoat Wood Sealer to seal and level oily woods.

Easier than using thinned varnish for sealer coats

The viscosity of varnish is such that it doesn’t penetrate wood grain easily. For that reason, varnish is usually thinned for the first couple of coats, and needs to be sanded between coats. On the other hand, TotalBoat Wood Sealer’s viscosity penetrates and seals wood more readily than thinned varnish, and does not require sanding between coats. It also dries faster than thinned varnish, so you won’t need to wait as long to start building finish coats. What’s more, the final coat of TotalBoat Wood Sealer is actually easier and faster to sand than thinned varnish, and because it dries more quickly, you’ll be ready to apply your finish coats of varnish sooner – which can save you a full project day.

Wood Sealer works and dries faster than other clear marine wood sealers — and it’s UV-stable, too

TotalBoat Wood Sealer is definitely not a pain in the arm like other clear marine wood sealers, because you don’t have to sand between coats. It has a viscosity that flows more easily into wood grain, and it dries faster, too, so recoating can happen in less than half the time. It also contains UV blockers that protect all the way down to the wood, which other marine sealers don’t do. Better still, with its longer open time, it won’t skin over and glob up in the can like other clear marine wood sealers do.

Makes for a great finish, but it’s not a finish coating

Use it with either of the TotalBoat 1-part varnishes Lust Marine Spar Varnish or Gleam 2.0 Spar Varnish , which don’t require sanding between coats, either. Together, TotalBoat Marine Wood Sealer and any TotalBoat 1-part varnish gives you a clear, level, beautiful finish in less time — every time.

Wood Sealer Varnish Primer Details

• One-part, clear amber gloss wood sealer fills wood grain and seals the fibers against moisture and sun damage.
• Creates a level surface ideal for 1-part varnish finishes like TotalBoat Lust and TotalBoat Gleam 2.0.
• UV stable and does not need sanding between coats.
• Dries fast so you can recoat in just 2 hours @ temperatures above 72°F.
• Allows 1-part varnishes to be used without thinning first, so more varnish is available for the finish coats.
• Works on all types of new or bare wood, including plywood and oily woods like teak and mahogany.
• For interior and exterior use above the waterline.
• Color: Clear Amber
• Sizes: Quart, Gallon

FREQUENTLY BOUGHT TOGETHER

Special Brushing Thinner 100

Spray Thinner 101

TECHNICAL DATA

• Substrates: Wood, previously varnished wood in good condition, or properly prepared epoxy surfaces
• Application Method: Brush, Roll, or Spray
• Application Temperature/RH: 45-105°F or 50-90°F, relative humidity 0-85% or 0-90%
• Application Film Thickness: 1-1.5 mils dry @ 3 mils wet
• Number of Coats: 2-3 (depending on the porosity of the wood)
• Minimum Overcoat Time: 1 hour @ 80°F, 3 hours @ 65°F, 8 hours @ 50°F
• Maximum Overcoat Time Without Sanding: 48 hours
• Important: TotalBoat Wood Sealer is intended as an initial coating to seal wood and prevent absorption of finish coats of varnish. For added depth, gloss, durability, and UV protection, overcoat Wood Sealer with 1-part varnish. Do not use TotalBoat Wood Sealer under two-part epoxy or two-part varnish or polyurethane paint systems.
• Finish: Gloss
• VOC Content: Less than 530 g/L
• UV Stable: Yes
• Food Safe/Food Contact Safe (Once Cured): No
• Coverage: 60-100 square feet per quart @ 3 mils wet
• Thinner: Brushing/Rolling - TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100; Spraying - TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• Surface Prep Solvent: TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• Cleanup Solvent: TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101

• Application methods:
• Application temperature/RH:
• Number of coats:
• UV resistant?
• Units of measure:
• Best for: Pre-varnish treatment for 1-part varnish. Seals wood so varnish is available for the finish coats - no sanding needed between coats.
• Color: Clear amber
• Application methods: Brush, Roll, or Spray
• Application temperature/RH: 45-105°F; 0-85% RH
• Number of coats: 2-3 (typically)
• Thinner: TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100, for brushing and rolling applications; TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101, for spraying and cool weather brushing/rolling applications
• Cleanup: TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• Coverage: 60-100 sq ft/qt @ 3 mils wet
• UV resistant? Yes, but needs to be coated with varnish.
• Units of measure: Quart, Gallon
• Brightwork on boats, strip canoes, kayaks
• Gloss, Satin
• Clear amber
• Brush, Roll, or Spray
• 45-105°F; 0-85% RH
• 4-6 (minimum)
• TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 for brushing and rolling applications; TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101 for spraying and cool weather brushing/rolling applications
• TotalBoat Dewaxer & Surface Prep or TotalBoat Special Brushing Thinner 100 or TotalBoat Spray Thinner 101
• 360-400 sq ft/gal @ 3 mils wet
• Pint, Quart Kit, 2 Quart Kit, Gallon Kit
• Rapid recoating, without sanding between coats. Great for brightwork, wooden canoes and kayaks.
• High Gloss, Matte
• 6-8 coats (minimum)
• High Gloss or Satin - Pint, Quart, Gallon, 2 Quart Kit; High Gloss and Satin - 2 Quart Combo Kit
• A natural-looking finish on brightwork, wooden canoes, kayaks, signage, artwork. Easy cleanup with soap and water.
• Gloss, Satin (Low Sheen)
• • Halcyon Amber Gloss - Clear gold/amber • Halcyon Clear Gloss - Clear, with very slight amber undertones • Halcyon Clear Satin - Clear, with very slight amber undertones
• Brush, Roll & Tip, or Spray
• 50-90°F; 0-90% RH
• 2-3 (minimum)
• Water (up to 20%, but is usually not needed)
• Mild soap and water
• 80-100 sq ft/qt @ 3 mils wet
• Pint, Quart, 4 Quarts. NOTE: Satin finish is not available in a 4 Quart size.

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Marine Wood Finish

• TotalBoat Wood Sealer Varnish Primer Technical Data

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What kinds of wood can this be used on?

Can the marine wood sealer be used over oil-based stains, why should stained wood be sealed before varnishing, does this varnish primer dry clear, or is it a stain, does wood sealer provide uv protection, can marine wood sealer varnish primer be used as a finish, can totalboat wood sealer be used below the waterline, should it be thinned for easier application, how many coats do i need to apply, how long do i need to wait before recoating, how long does varnish primer take to dry.

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5 Tips for Painting Marine Plywood

• Written by Chris Nickson on Jun 30, 2010 To ensure our content is always up-to-date with current information, best practices, and professional advice, articles are routinely reviewed by industry experts with years of hands-on experience. Reviewed by KC Morgan on Jun 02, 2023

Marine plywood is a particular variety of plywood that’s been treated to withstand moisture . As the name implies, it’s often used on boats and other items that are in frequent contact with water. Whether it’s for marine use or exterior use, marine plywood still needs to be painted in order to be fully durable, and painting it properly can require some know-how.

Before applying any kind of paint, you need to sand marine plywood as you would any other type. Do this to remove imperfections in the wood and to help the primer adhere more easily to the surface. Make sure you wipe off all the sawdust after you’ve finished. A damp cloth is good for this (allow the wood to dry in this case before you proceed) or you can use a tack cloth for the job.

If you’re using marine plywood where it’s likely to come in contact with water, such as on the exterior of a house, you should use latex-based paints. Unlike oil-based paints, they’re very durable and will expand and contract with the wood so they won’t crack.

You need to apply a thin coat of latex-based primer to the wood first. Give it plenty of time to dry and then sand it down lightly. You should only sand just enough to roughen the surface a little. Doing this will let the paint make a good strong bond with the primer. Remove all the dust with a tack cloth again before you go ahead and begin to paint.

Choose Your Paint Carefully

What type of finish paint you use on the marine plywood is up to you, and how you’ll be using the wood. The gloss gives the hardest finish of all types, but the problem is that it also shows imperfections easily. The most utilitarian choice is semi-gloss. The hardness of the finish is virtually as good as gloss and it will cover any remaining imperfections in the wood. Just be sure to use latex-based paint over the latex primer.

Use the Right Technique

Start by putting on a thin coat of paint. There’s no need to sand between coats. Just allow it to dry, which should only take between two hours and three hours, and then apply another thin coat. In most cases, two coats of paint should be adequate, but you can add an extra coat for greater protection if you desire.

You can spray the paint on, but you’ll achieve a better thin coverage if you use either a brush or a roller to apply it. Start at the top, working from one side to the other. This will allow you to work in any drips as you move down the sheet of plywood. Don’t put too much paint on your brush before you begin painting; that’s just an invitation for excessive dripping.

Renew as Needed

The paint should be good for a few years, although this depends on which use the wood is put to. The greater its exposure to abuse and the elements, the more regularly it will need to be renewed. You should inspect the marine plywood regularly for wear.

Marine Plywood Painting FAQ

What is the best paint for marine plywood.

There are many different types of paint that are designed for all kinds of uses. You will find paint that is optimized for outdoor use, as well as paint that's made to be ideal for use inside.

Semi-gloss paint works well for plywood, though you can use a variety of paints on this material. Sand the wood very well before you do any painting on it.

Do I need to prime plywood before painting?

Applying primer before you paint plywood will give you the best results. Sand the plywood well before applying a thin, smooth coat of primer.

Allow the primer to dry completely before you paint.

How do you make plywood look good painted?

To give plywood a nice, finished look after it's painted, spend some time prepping it first. Fill all little dents and holes with wood filler to get started.

Use joint compound on all the seams to create a smooth look. After it dries, sand down the wood filer ad the joint compound to create a smooth finish.

Do another coat of compound and repeat the drying and sanding process before you prime the wood. Use at least two coats of paint to get a nice, even layer of coverage.

How long will painted marine plywood last?

Marine plywood is a highly durable material, even when unpainted. When it's painted and even when exposed to the outdoors, marine plywood can last anywhere from 30 to 50 years.

Should I seal marine grade plywood?

Marine-grade plywood is optimized for use outdoors but sealing the plywood can add still more durability. To seal the material, cover it with a clear epoxy.

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• Yachting Monthly's Scuttlebutt

Whats "Yacht Varnish" for?

• Thread starter Seagreen
• Start date 28 Apr 2008
• 28 Apr 2008

Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? No, its not a dim question. I bought a large tin of "International Yacht Varnish" from B&Q, which on reading the back of the tin said, "not suitable for floors or marine use". Durr?? "Not suitable for marine use"? Yacht Varnish? Oh wait a moment, they must sell gallons of this stuff to the vast army of pond yacht skippers who make the thousands of model yachts which plague this country. Silly me. As far as I can tell, the "Not for marine use" must be a sop to chandleries, as it looks and smells just like the stuff I've been using for the last 30 years. Anyone know differently, please enlighten me. Its going on a plywood dinghy that spends 99% of its life out of the water, so I don't think wear or exposure will be a problem. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif  

Active member

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? I knew I'd seen this before, god i've been here too long /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif http://www.ybw.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1779957/an/0/page/2  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? Ah well, I've been locked up in a garage with the stuff and sniffing turps for the last 3 hours, so that's my excuse. It'll do fine for me, even on the bottom hull.  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? I'd use it for your dinghy no worries!  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? BTW that post still didn't answer my original question. So, what's the difference between "yacht" varnish and Varnish sold by the same companies in chandleries?  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? hi none , if its nat crap ,  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? So, what's the difference between "yacht" varnish and Varnish sold by the same companies in chandleries? You will never find out................ Now here is another one. What is the difference between marine paints and normal household paints, I'm not talking two packs just the ordinary enamel paints. I spent ages trying to find out and then somebody quickly gave me the answer............ PRICE which is why my boat gets Weathershield. Tom  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? I used Johnstones household gloss on a heron dinghy for years, never had any problems, also used ordinary polyuerthane exterior varnish on the mast again worked fine for my 10 years ownership of the dinghy  

Well-known member

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? Yacht Varnish is a type of finish not a what for finish. It has a very high gloss - what one would expect from a traditional boat. I suspect to get such a high gloss the manufacturer has to forgo any UV inhibitor - so no good for external or marine use, and it is soft - so no good for flooring. There you have it - a very boring answer, sorry.  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? OK now what about the paint one and that will be your 1000 post! Tom  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? That's good paint and the current Berger White Gloss paint is very tough. I used it inside my tender and it survived outboards and batteries being dragged across it, no problems. It is also about £3.70 for a litre. Usually at independent hardware stores rather than big sheds.  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? A mate used ordinary white as a boot-top, but in seawater he got a lot of blistering and pockets of water underneath the paint. I think on surfaces that aren't immersed on a regular basis, a good exterior enamel will do fine - that's the way I'm going anyway.  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? Did he overlap the boot top over the antifoul? That allows the water to wick up behind the boot top. I put the boot top on before the antifoul to avoid that.  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? It was a long time ago, but I think he only overlapped by mils. The two painted areas were adjacent not overlapping, and he got bilsters all over the paint - had to strip it all off and start again.  

Re: Whats \"Yacht Varnish\" for? [ QUOTE ] Its going on a plywood dinghy that spends 99% of its life out of the water, so I don't think wear or exposure will be a problem. [/ QUOTE ] I had the same thought and used it for a plywood dinghy that spends most of its life out of the water - and only ever goes in fresh water when it does sail. It was a disaster. The so-called 'yacht varnish' has no resistance to water.  

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