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Rub rail repair?

sailboat rub rail repair

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There are a few places on my boat where the rub rail appears to be separating from the hull in a few places. The previous owner used to grind the front corner of the boat against a post to force the boat to turn into the slip, and that's the area that seems to be separating a bit. It's a big, thick piece of black rubber that goes all the way around the boat. Does anyone have links to repair/replacement tutorials? I'm not even sure how the rail might be attached, much less how to replace/seal it, and I'd like to see some other boats so I can get an idea of what I'm up against without pulling back on the rail and damaging it further. [Edit] Thanks arf... I need to update my sig. It's a 1978 Morgan OI 30.  

sailboat rub rail repair

Best you let folks know what kind of boat you've got (and the year) to help them help you.  

It's a Morgan OI 30. Thanks for catching that arf.  

Taco Marine has just about every conceivable size and shape of rub rail and insert.  

I'm hoping CaptForce might have a source. I think maybe the 41 and the 30 have a similar rub rail config.  

sailboat rub rail repair

A picture would help as rubrails can be attached in more than one manner. That said, many have a rubber insert that is held in a plastic or aluminum chanel. Ours was rubber in plastic and had some out of the groove in several places. I was able to work it back into place on a hot day with a screwdriver.  

sailboat rub rail repair

Catalina uses a rubber insert in a metal channel. On my previous boat, a Catalina 30, I would sometimes brush up against a piling that the wind pushed me against. This would cause the rubber to come out of the channel and stretch. I would then have to hang over the edge and work it back into the channel, sometimes using a screwdriver to help coax the groove back in place. I would often have an extra loop to put in since the rubber was stretched. I would work it from side to side to get it back in the channel. If that didn't work, I would removeit to the stern end where it was secured with a screw, reinstalling it as I went and cutting off the excess. I don't know of other options and it was a pita! I'm glad to have sold the boat and now sail a Bayfield 36 with 2 teak rubrails with brass cove moldings. Much better! Tod  

most have a two piece[channel-insert system thats pop riveted to the hull/deck,the harder plastic channels can be heated with a heat gun to make the corner turns,the insert is much softer and slips into the channel very easily,i fill the old river holes with a dab of 5200 and drill the new holes,dabing 5200 on the replacement screws beneath the channel just before i tighten them,its a easy one day job  

  • Model # 10725315 | Manuf. # V21-9647WHA20D )

I'll have to take that leap and peel it back a bit and check. I was nervous about making it worse.  

sailboat rub rail repair

I believe that this type of rub rail is glued on over two flange edges. I don't see an insert or fasteners. It appears that there is an end cap. If you remove the end cap you will be able to see the cross section of the rub rail.  

My Etap 26 has a similar rub rail, which I need to refasten at the stern. It is held by aluminum clips pop riveted to the hull. The problem is that the clips were originally formed with a pair of tabs extending outwards at about 45 degrees. The molding was placed over it, and you hit it with a mallet, bending the tabs back and expanding them into grooves in the molding. Unfortunately some of the tabs broke completely off, and I haven't found a source for them yet. Gary H. Lucas  

We are currently repairing a damaged rub rail on our Pearson 34. We removed the cracked vinyl and rplaced it (it was pop riveted on but we cut notched to slide over the riets and used silicon cement to firnmly attach it to the hull). But we can't get the rubber insert (which was not really damaged but may have stretched from hanging loose) back into the grooves in the vinyl. We can get the top or the bottom but not both. We were working on a hot day and applying a heat gun and using a screwdriver and or putty knife with no luck. Of course its possible the new piece is slightly different from the old one but it looks exactly the same. Any advice? We are about ready to trim the groove at the top side of the rubber, slide the bottom in and use silicon cement to affix the top part. Thanks!  

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sailboat rub rail repair

Tessilmare

How to remove the Boat Rub Rails

Removing rub rails is a task that boat owners might need to undertake for various reasons, such as  replacing damaged sections or  upgrading to a new style . Here’s a detailed guide on how to remove rub rails safely and effectively.

Materials You’ll Need

  • Drill with screwdriver bit
  • Utility knife
  • Pry bar or flathead screwdriver
  • Safety gloves
  • Cleaning supplies

Removal Process

Prepare the area.

Ensure your boat is securely moored or on a trailer. Clear the area around the rub rail, removing any obstructions to give yourself enough working space.

Heat the Rub Rail

Using a  heat gun , gently warm the rub rail. This step softens the material, making it easier to remove. Be careful  not to overheat and damage the boat’s surface.

Remove the Screws

Start by  removing the screws  that hold the rub rail in place. Use a drill with a screwdriver bit for this task. If screws are covered, you might need to use a utility knife to cut away any covering material.

Pry Off the Rub Rail

Once the screws are removed, use a pry bar or flathead screwdriver to gently  lift the rub rail away from the boat’s surface.  Start at one end and work your way along the rail. Apply steady, even pressure to avoid damaging the hull.

Remove Any Adhesive Residue

After the rub rail is off, there might be adhesive residue left on the boat. Use a suitable  solvent or adhesive remover to clean the area.  Apply it as per the manufacturer’s instructions and wipe away the residue with a cloth.

Clean the Surface

Thoroughly clean the surface where the rub rail was attached. Use mild  detergent and water to remove any remaining dirt or debris . Dry the area completely with a microfiber cloth.

How to change radial rub rails

Tips for safe removals

Work Slowly and Carefully : Rushing the removal process can lead to damage. Take your time and handle the materials gently.

Use Proper Tools : Using the right tools for the job makes the process easier and reduces the risk of damaging your boat.

Wear Safety Gloves : Protect your hands from sharp edges and hot surfaces by wearing safety gloves throughout the process.

Removing rub rails might seem like a challenging task, but with the right approach and tools, it can be done efficiently.

On the other hand,  Tessilmare Rub rails are really easy to install and replace: find out how .

Need help to replace your old rub rail with one of ours?

How to change BINO rub rail

Repair the rub rails

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BINOX rub rail

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  • ← Install & Repair

Repair A Vinyl Rubrail

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Is that protective strip on your boat looking a bit bruised and battered from doing its job? Let’s make it look like new

Four images showing how to repair a vinyl rubrail

  • Nitrile gloves
  • Masking tape
  • 100-, 200-, 600-, and 800-grit sandpaper
  • Interlux 202 Solvent
  • 1 to 2 hours depending on the damage
  • Around $30 for the solvent

Rubrails take a beating. After all, they exist to protect your boat when it rubs up against pilings, docks, and other boats. But after a few years of such dedicated duty, vinyl rubrails can look rather chewed up. In fact, they can make Mom’s Mink look downright shabby. Never fear, boat-loving mariner. You can make that rubrail look like new again with just an hour or two of DIY dedication.

Note that tiny bits of vinyl will be sanded off during the process, and you’ll also be using potentially harmful chemicals, so although this is an easy job, care does need to be taken. Follow environmental safety best-practices and read the manufacturer’s instructions and warnings on the can of solvent before beginning the process.

  • 1. Mask off areas surrounding the surface to be repaired with masking tape . Vinyl rubrails are generally inside a track, which may also be made from vinyl. The rubrail is designed to protrude well outside the track, so in most cases, the track itself will show little to no wear. But the track may also need to be fixed up, depending on just how hard a beating the boat has taken over the years. You may want to mask off the track, or you may want to mask off the fiberglass where it meets the track. In either case, run the tape above, below, and on either side of the damaged area, so both the fiberglass and any undamaged sections are protected.
  • 2. Wearing gloves to avoid the vinyl “dust” staining your hands, sand the damaged portion of the rubrail starting with 100-grit . This will rub off the larger bits and pieces of damaged rubrail. Then move on to the 200-grit sandpaper, and sand the entire area again. Continue sanding until all the burrs and divots are gone. You’ll notice that the sandpaper creates countless micro-scratches in the surface, which will discolor it somewhat. But don’t worry, that’s expected.

Keep Your Boat's Vinyl Rub Rail Looking New

  • 3. Move on to the 600-grit, and continue sanding until the surface looks smooth, then use the 800-grit to polish it up . The discoloration will remain, but continue sanding until the rubrail’s surface is smooth to the touch. If it seems to be taking forever on a portion where there was significant amount of damage, you may need to step back a grit-size so the sandpaper has more of an effect. If you do so, however, be sure to go back over that spot with the finer-grit sandpaper afterward.
  • 4. When the rubrail looks and feels smooth, sparingly wet a small section of the clean rag with 202 Solvent . Wipe it back and forth several times along the vinyl that you sanded. While you wipe, you’ll notice that the rubrail’s color returns to its original shade as the tiny scratches the sandpaper left behind melt and become sealed. Two or three applications may be necessary to complete the process. Remember: The solvent creates harmful vapors and should only be used in well-ventilated areas. It must not be spilled or washed into the water. Be sure to check the warnings and safety instructions on the can prior to opening it.

Black vinyl rubrail on the side of a boat

  • 5. Assess the final result. If you’re not happy with the appearance of the rubrail, you can always go back to steps 2 or 3 if necessary. The finer sanding job you do, the better the rubrail will appear. Just how long does the job take? We restored a section of rubrail about a foot and a half long on a 22-foot boat, which had become chewed up by a piling during a significant nor’easter. The damage included gouges in the vinyl up to about 1/32-inch deep and one or two about twice that depth, which left dozens or perhaps hundreds of tiny bits of vinyl (about the size of a gnat) hanging free. The repairs took about two hours, with about three-quarters of that time dedicated to sanding. Although it didn’t come out perfect, our restored rubrail ended up looking 90% to 95% like new. As is true of many jobs like this, while you eventually hit a point of diminishing returns, the more time and work you put into it, the better the final results. If the rubrail you’re looking to fix has extensive damage and you’re faced with days and days of sanding, you may want to consider replacing it entirely. There’s significant additional cost involved and it will take four to five hours if everything goes smoothly.

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Hull separation from top mold repair

Discussion in ' Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building ' started by Thisiscainyo , Feb 27, 2013 .

Thisiscainyo

Thisiscainyo Junior Member

Basically the two molds are separating from where the rub rail covers. it appear that prior owners have attempted to repair this damage with caulk or glue. It obviously didn't work all that well. I have removed the rub rail around the whole boat. The only actual way i think i can repair this is with a pop/rivit, screw or nut and bolt. I plan to push it in and apply some type of glue/caulk when doing this as well. any suggestions on what to do? I also plan on repainting the boat from the rub rail down. anyone have any suggestions on what to use or how to do it?  
Pic one of me pushing the separation in  

Attached Files:

Without rub rail. I actually really like the look without the old 1980s bulky rail. Anybody have any suggestions that would work for me in a white rail? I can't believe how much it costs to replace by the way.  
Without rail  
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PAR

PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

You could grind things down and bond the deck cap to the hull, making a seamless transition.  

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Rub Rail?Replace or Repair?

  • Thread starter enginesilo
  • Start date Apr 18, 2013

Petty Officer 1st Class

  • Apr 18, 2013

I'm considering buying a 2001 Rinker and there is one section of the rub rail that looks flattened out and loose. Guessing a past owner hit a dock or another boat enough to break it loose. I can also see that there is a little bit of silicone in that section where they tried to repair it. Is this a big deal if it looks like there is no damage to the boat, but the rub rail is loose? Is this something that can be siliconed and make sure its not leaking, or something that I crucially should be replacing? Its about half way up on the front side of the boat so it doesn't get direct water splashing, but definitely could if it was rough. I think the rub rail is what holds the top shell onto the boat hull itself, is that right? So I want to be sure this isn't a major issue. Boat doesn't seem like it took on any odd water or anything, but I'll have to grab the hose and check I guess. Any insight appreciated.  

GT1000000

Rear Admiral

Re: Rub Rail?Replace or Repair? Usually rub rails are just like the bumpers on your car...they are made for a certain amount of bumping and rubbing...in most cases it is not a big deal and is usually just a cosmetic offense... You might be able to find a section of similar rub rail and splice in a repair piece, however, most rub rail inserts are sold in rolls of 50 feet or so... Something to consider is if the aluminum part of the rub rail is in good shape, you can replace just the rubber insert with a new one...If the aluminum part is damaged, you may have to check around for a local boat scrap yard and see if you can find a replacement section, or if it is really bad, you may have to spend some serious bucks and replace the entire thing, which can get pricey...here is one link to get an idea of some pricing... Boat Rub Rails - iboats Also, be sure to do a really close inspection of the area around the damage to be sure the underlying fiberglass hasn't been too badly damaged... If you post up a couple of good pictures of the damage, some of the other members on the forum may be able to give you some other ideas... Good Luck! GT1M  

GT1000000 said: Usually rub rails are just like the bumpers on your car...they are made for a certain amount of bumping and rubbing...in most cases it is not a big deal and is usually just a cosmetic offense... You might be able to find a section of similar rub rail and splice in a repair piece, however, most rub rail inserts are sold in rolls of 50 feet or so... Something to consider is if the aluminum part of the rub rail is in good shape, you can replace just the rubber insert with a new one...If the aluminum part is damaged, you may have to check around for a local boat scrap yard and see if you can find a replacement section, or if it is really bad, you may have to spend some serious bucks and replace the entire thing, which can get pricey...here is one link to get an idea of some pricing... Boat Rub Rails - iboats Also, be sure to do a really close inspection of the area around the damage to be sure the underlying fiberglass hasn't been too badly damaged... If you post up a couple of good pictures of the damage, some of the other members on the forum may be able to give you some other ideas... Good Luck! GT1M Click to expand...

sailboat rub rail repair

Re: Rub Rail?Replace or Repair? From the pics you posted, it looks like the rub rail did exactly what it is supposed to do...prevent further damage to the boat from impact... BTW, you are 100% correct about the rub rail being the point of joining/attachment between the top {aka, Cap} and bottom {aka, Hull}... My next concern would be the water you mentioned and the fact the boat has been stored... Any standing water in a boat can lead to problems... If the water did in fact come from a recent wash down, and has a place to drain out...that is not too bad... If the boat has been stored without a cover and the bilge plug left in, that could be a sign of possible trouble... If the boat was stored without a cover, had the bow raised as high as possible, had the bilge drain plug removed and no water was allowed to stand in it, everything might be OK... You should try and do a very thorough inspection, not necessarily a core sampling { as the current owner probably wouldn't allow such a thing}, but get down in the back as low as possible in the bilge area and look for evidence of water that has been sitting... That could be an indication that some problems exist... Unfortunately, there is no easy way, short of actually doing core samples from the wood structure of the boat, or actually seeing visible signs of rot, to know if it rot...which is something that can significantly impact the value and life expectancy of the boat... If the value of the boat warrants, you may want to have a professional Marine survey done, although that too, is no guarantee that problems don't exist... I hope not to have rained on your parade, but these are things you should concern yourself with, especially if you are putting down a sizeable investment... Another thing I would ask for before commitment to buy is a sea trial...  

GT1000000 said: From the pics you posted, it looks like the rub rail did exactly what it is supposed to do...prevent further damage to the boat from impact... BTW, you are 100% correct about the rub rail being the point of joining/attachment between the top {aka, Cap} and bottom {aka, Hull}... My next concern would be the water you mentioned and the fact the boat has been stored... Any standing water in a boat can lead to problems... If the water did in fact come from a recent wash down, and has a place to drain out...that is not too bad... If the boat has been stored without a cover and the bilge plug left in, that could be a sign of possible trouble... If the boat was stored without a cover, had the bow raised as high as possible, had the bilge drain plug removed and no water was allowed to stand in it, everything might be OK... You should try and do a very thorough inspection, not necessarily a core sampling { as the current owner probably wouldn't allow such a thing}, but get down in the back as low as possible in the bilge area and look for evidence of water that has been sitting... That could be an indication that some problems exist... Unfortunately, there is no easy way, short of actually doing core samples from the wood structure of the boat, or actually seeing visible signs of rot, to know if it rot...which is something that can significantly impact the value and life expectancy of the boat... If the value of the boat warrants, you may want to have a professional Marine survey done, although that too, is no guarantee that problems don't exist... I hope not to have rained on your parade, but these are things you should concern yourself with, especially if you are putting down a sizeable investment... Another thing I would ask for before commitment to buy is a sea trial... Click to expand...
  • Apr 19, 2013
  • Jun 4, 2014

I'm restoring a 1967 Holiday, the rub rail is shot, need to replace it..After many hours on the internet I've come to the conclusion that profile is no longer available. Now I have to improvise. Any ideas? Where the deck and hull join there is a 3/4 inch flange that's pop-riveted together. the old rail is vinyl I think, probably flexible, it was screwed in from the bottom of the rail, broke off in one foot chunks! Any one know where I can get it or have any advice on hoe to Magyver a replacement?  

jbcurt00

HFR said: I'm restoring a 1967 Holiday, the rub rail is shot , need to replace it..After many hours on the internet I've come to the conclusion that profile is no longer available. Now I have to improvise. Any ideas? Where the deck and hull join there is a 3/4 inch flange that's pop-riveted together. the old rail is vinyl I think, probably flexible, it was screwed in from the bottom of the rail, broke off in one foot chunks! Any one know where I can get it or have any advice on hoe to Magyver a replacement? Click to expand...

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sailboat rub rail repair

  • Great Grady Forums
  • General Discussion

Rub rail repair

  • Thread starter yankeecause
  • Start date Oct 17, 2010

yankeecause

Greatgrady captain.

How is the rub rail attached? The reason being is when I bought my boat the rub rail on the starboard side is pushed down about a 1/2'', in like a 8'' section,like it got stuck under a dock. Can it be pushed up with a 2x6 off a floor jack? Heat it with a heat gun and hit it with a dead-blow hammer? Any ideas? Thanks, Joe.  

Well-Known Member

Please don't do either of those 2 ideas. The center section of the rub-rail pulls out, starting at the stern (or you could try prying out just teh section where you want to work). There are screws about every 6 inches behind that center section. you probably have some bent screws there (which happens when the rub rail gets puushed down). Remove the scres arouund where it is out of place, maybe a couple before and after as well. You will be able to then, by hand, move the rub-rail where you would like and re-screw. Tap the center back in and your set. I would also recommend using some caulk in the screw holes....  

enfish

georgemjr said: Please don't do either of those 2 ideas. The center section of the rub-rail pulls out, starting at the stern (or you could try prying out just teh section where you want to work). There are screws about every 6 inches behind that center section. you probably have some bent screws there (which happens when the rub rail gets puushed down). Remove the scres arouund where it is out of place, maybe a couple before and after as well. You will be able to then, by hand, move the rub-rail where you would like and re-screw. Tap the center back in and your set. I would also recommend using some caulk in the screw holes.... Click to expand...

Thanks guys! Bent screws makes sense. I will pull the center welt out of the rail and pull the screws. It's really not a big deal just one of those little things that have been bugging me since I got it. I'm glad I asked first. I love this site!! Joe.  

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Rub Rail Repair

  • Thread starter Dave Laing s/v WindSong
  • Start date Apr 29, 2001
  • Hunter Owner Forums
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Dave Laing s/v WindSong

Has anyone replaced a portion of their rub rail? My h-23 got into a piling during a storm last month and I need to replace a section about 4 1/2 feet. I have ordered and received a six foot section of the white plastic rub rail from Hunter. Is it difficult to put the black rubber insert back into the groove after installation? Any tips or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.  

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Elektrostal

Elektrostal Localisation : Country Russia , Oblast Moscow Oblast . Available Information : Geographical coordinates , Population, Altitude, Area, Weather and Hotel . Nearby cities and villages : Noginsk , Pavlovsky Posad and Staraya Kupavna .

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Elektrostal Demography

Information on the people and the population of Elektrostal.

Elektrostal Population157,409 inhabitants
Elektrostal Population Density3,179.3 /km² (8,234.4 /sq mi)

Elektrostal Geography

Geographic Information regarding City of Elektrostal .

Elektrostal Geographical coordinatesLatitude: , Longitude:
55° 48′ 0″ North, 38° 27′ 0″ East
Elektrostal Area4,951 hectares
49.51 km² (19.12 sq mi)
Elektrostal Altitude164 m (538 ft)
Elektrostal ClimateHumid continental climate (Köppen climate classification: Dfb)

Elektrostal Distance

Distance (in kilometers) between Elektrostal and the biggest cities of Russia.

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Elektrostal Nearby cities and villages

Elektrostal Weather

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Elektrostal Sunrise and sunset

Find below the times of sunrise and sunset calculated 7 days to Elektrostal.

DaySunrise and sunsetTwilightNautical twilightAstronomical twilight
8 June02:43 - 11:25 - 20:0701:43 - 21:0701:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00
9 June02:42 - 11:25 - 20:0801:42 - 21:0801:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00
10 June02:42 - 11:25 - 20:0901:41 - 21:0901:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00
11 June02:41 - 11:25 - 20:1001:41 - 21:1001:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00
12 June02:41 - 11:26 - 20:1101:40 - 21:1101:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00
13 June02:40 - 11:26 - 20:1101:40 - 21:1201:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00
14 June02:40 - 11:26 - 20:1201:39 - 21:1301:00 - 01:00 01:00 - 01:00

Elektrostal Hotel

Our team has selected for you a list of hotel in Elektrostal classified by value for money. Book your hotel room at the best price.



Located next to Noginskoye Highway in Electrostal, Apelsin Hotel offers comfortable rooms with free Wi-Fi. Free parking is available. The elegant rooms are air conditioned and feature a flat-screen satellite TV and fridge...
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Located in the green area Yamskiye Woods, 5 km from Elektrostal city centre, this hotel features a sauna and a restaurant. It offers rooms with a kitchen...
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Ekotel Bogorodsk Hotel is located in a picturesque park near Chernogolovsky Pond. It features an indoor swimming pool and a wellness centre. Free Wi-Fi and private parking are provided...
from


Surrounded by 420,000 m² of parkland and overlooking Kovershi Lake, this hotel outside Moscow offers spa and fitness facilities, and a private beach area with volleyball court and loungers...
from


Surrounded by green parklands, this hotel in the Moscow region features 2 restaurants, a bowling alley with bar, and several spa and fitness facilities. Moscow Ring Road is 17 km away...
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IMAGES

  1. How to Find the Right Rub Rail for Your Boat

    sailboat rub rail repair

  2. How to fix boat rub rail

    sailboat rub rail repair

  3. Boat Rub Rail Repair Don't Buy New when you can Rework the Old One

    sailboat rub rail repair

  4. Top 5 tips for removing and sealing a boat rub-rail (PVC fender/ rubbing strake/bumper strip)

    sailboat rub rail repair

  5. Rub Rail Repair

    sailboat rub rail repair

  6. Restore a boat's rub rail with Solution Finish

    sailboat rub rail repair

VIDEO

  1. How to Insert Boat Rubber Rail Strip

  2. Sailing "Thanks Dad" 24-April-2016 installed the new TACO rub rail

  3. 55: Removing Rub Rail

  4. Boat Rub Rail Repair Don't Buy New when you can Rework the Old One

  5. Rub Rail Repair (Spanish)

  6. Cat Boat Half Hull by Malcolm Crosby, Series 2, Video # 13: Installing the Rub Rail

COMMENTS

  1. Repairing Wooden Rubrails and Toerails

    Still, wooden rails give a sailboat an admirably classic look, even when left unfinished to weather naturally, and can be a lot less work to maintain than people realize. Repairing wooden rubrails and toerails is also very simple, requiring nothing more than a couple of hand tools—as I learned when I repaired some sections of rail on my long ...

  2. Easy Rubrail Replacement

    We recommend adding the boat's length to its beam and then doubling the sum to ensure you order enough rubrail to complete the job. Taco Marine is a popular OEM supplier of rubrails for many boat manufacturers and offers an extensive line of replacement rubrails and inserts in kit form. Here are the basic steps in the replacement of an insert ...

  3. Rub Rail replacement

    Mar 1, 2016. 267. Oday 28 Tracy's Landing. Oct 20, 2016. #1. I have a 1984 Oday 28. the prior owner replaced the rub rail with a teak rub rail that needs maintenance. I've been considering putting an original rubber type rub rail for lower maintenance and better bumping protection. Would appreciate advice on how to take on such a job.

  4. Rub rail repair?

    N. needsanap. 22 posts · Joined 2011. #14 · Aug 20, 2012. We are currently repairing a damaged rub rail on our Pearson 34. We removed the cracked vinyl and rplaced it (it was pop riveted on but we cut notched to slide over the riets and used silicon cement to firnmly attach it to the hull).

  5. Rub Rail Repair / Sealing Stanchions

    I'm having a problem finding replacement rub rails. I can't seem to find the same rub rails that are on my boat. I'd like to replace just a portion of the rub rail, but if I have to, I would consider replacing the entire rub rail. Either way, I'd like to use the same rub rail that was originally on the boat.

  6. Cutting my Rub Rail

    Just talked with the FRP repair guy, with 40 years experience. @dlochner method is the path forward. Remove/Pull back just enough rub rail, put that part on boat deck to avoid gravity removing it more, fix and put Rub Rail back in place. No cutting the Rub Rail. @Don S/V ILLusion advice was taken into account too.

  7. How to fix boat rub rail

    I show how to fix a bulging rub rail in only a few minutes at no cost.https://highschoolfishingcentral.com/ was created as a go-to resource for fishing enthu...

  8. Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed.

    Jul 17, 2006. #2. Re: Rub rail leaking, what to expect when removed. The "rub rail" is the joint between the top half of your boat and the bottom half. If you have leakage, from there, your hull is FULL of water. Removing the rub rail is no big deal. Typically, the rub rail is riveted on. Just drill them out and replace with Stainless screws..

  9. DIY rub rail repair

    About 12" of my '96 Larson's NLA rub rail was shattered. The insert was fine. Tocco metals carried a close profile, but not close enough for a partial match around the bow. Full boat rub rail and way too much insert was to cost +-$250. So, I took a deep breath and cut out a 14" section of the good rub rail, and used it as a pattern in a two ...

  10. Rub Rail repair. How do I do it?

    Boat rub rail question - YouTube Many thanks Paul . Bondo Moderator. Staff member. Joined Apr 17, 2002 Messages 70,652. Jan 17, 2013 #2 Re: Rub Rail repair. How do I do it? ... Rub Rail repair. How do I do it? Hi. The remainder of the glue is more like silicon than putty. The rub rail is designed to grip on as you will hopefully see from the ...

  11. How to repair boat rub rails and assess the damage

    Rub rails provide a wide range of top quality rub rails replacements for your boat. Work in Small Sections: If the damage is extensive, repair small sections at a time to maintain control and precision. Regular Inspections: Periodically inspect your rub rails for signs of wear and tear. Early detection allows for minor repairs before they ...

  12. Rub Rail Choices

    I've seen two approaches to rubrails. 1) rubrail is soft, sacrificial when it bumps against the side of other boat. This is reasonable for a tender for some types of boats, workboat type. But not nearly as good as canvas/rubber. 2) Rubrail is primarily to protect the hull against docks, bulkheads, etc.

  13. How to carefully remove boat rub rails

    Heat the Rub Rail. Using a heat gun, gently warm the rub rail. This step softens the material, making it easier to remove. Be careful not to overheat and damage the boat's surface. Remove the Screws. Start by removing the screws that hold the rub rail in place. Use a drill with a screwdriver bit for this task.

  14. Repair A Vinyl Rubrail

    Interlux 202 Solvent. Clean rags. Time. 1 to 2 hours depending on the damage. Cost. Around $30 for the solvent. Rubrails take a beating. After all, they exist to protect your boat when it rubs up against pilings, docks, and other boats. But after a few years of such dedicated duty, vinyl rubrails can look rather chewed up.

  15. Hull separation from top mold repair

    Thisiscainyo Junior Member. Basically the two molds are separating from where the rub rail covers. it appear that prior owners have attempted to repair this damage with caulk or glue. It obviously didn't work all that well. I have removed the rub rail around the whole boat. The only actual way i think i can repair this is with a pop/rivit ...

  16. Rub Rail?Replace or Repair?

    Messages. 355. Apr 18, 2013. #1. I'm considering buying a 2001 Rinker and there is one section of the rub rail that looks flattened out and loose. Guessing a past owner hit a dock or another boat enough to break it loose. I can also see that there is a little bit of silicone in that section where they tried to repair it.

  17. Boat Rub Rail Repair Don't Buy New when you can Rework the ...

    Links to the only supplies you need!Heat Gun, 1800W MAXXHEAT Heavy Duty Hot Air Gun Kit Variable Temperature Control with 2-Temp Settings 122℉~1202℉ Overload...

  18. Rub rail repair

    Rub rail repair. Thread starter yankeecause; Start date Oct 17, 2010; Y. yankeecause GreatGrady Captain. Joined Aug 25, 2007 ... Oct 17, 2010 #1 How is the rub rail attached? The reason being is when I bought my boat the rub rail on the starboard side is pushed down about a 1/2'', in like a 8'' section,like it got stuck under a dock. Can it be ...

  19. Rub Rail Repair

    D. Dave Laing s/v WindSong. Apr 29, 2001. #1. Has anyone replaced a portion of their rub rail? My h-23 got into a piling during a storm last month and I need to replace a section about 4 1/2 feet. I have ordered and received a six foot section of the white plastic rub rail from Hunter.

  20. Elektrostal

    In 1938, it was granted town status. [citation needed]Administrative and municipal status. Within the framework of administrative divisions, it is incorporated as Elektrostal City Under Oblast Jurisdiction—an administrative unit with the status equal to that of the districts. As a municipal division, Elektrostal City Under Oblast Jurisdiction is incorporated as Elektrostal Urban Okrug.

  21. Ewf b.v East West Forwarding

    EWF B.V EAST WEST FORWARDING. Edelveis, Right Entrance, 2nd Floor Davidkovskaja, 121352 Moscow, Russia. Phone: +7 495 938-99-66; Mobile: +7 495-997-0977

  22. Elektrostal, Moscow Oblast, Russia

    Elektrostal Geography. Geographic Information regarding City of Elektrostal. Elektrostal Geographical coordinates. Latitude: 55.8, Longitude: 38.45. 55° 48′ 0″ North, 38° 27′ 0″ East. Elektrostal Area. 4,951 hectares. 49.51 km² (19.12 sq mi) Elektrostal Altitude.

  23. Heat-ex

    Heat-ex is located in Elektrostal. Heat-ex is working in General contractors, Heating installation and repair activities. You can contact the company at 8 (495) 505-21-45.You can find more information about Heat-ex at heat-ex.ru.