transit the panama canal by yacht

Yachting World
Digital Edition

Through the Panama Canal in a yacht

June 30, 2022

Transiting through the Panama Canal in a yacht is a once in a lifetime experience. We get advice on planning this unique passage from skippers who’ve crossed recently

Romeo hops over the guardrail at sunset. Our young Panamanian advisor, here to guide us through the first three ascending locks of the Panama Canal, politely turns down a Coca Cola, and accepts a glass of warm water instead as we make our way through the Panama Canal in a yacht.

We hoist the anchor, and begin motoring across The Flats – a sweeping, artificial anchorage built around the industrial city of Colon, writes Max Campbell.

Never have I felt this nervous before a passage. The root of my fear is being dependent on Elixir’s little Volvo Penta engine, something I don’t fully understand. For some reason this terrifies me.

My parents have flown out especially for the passage. The Canal transit has been a ‘bucket list’ trip my stepdad has been itching to tick off. We reach the entrance to the first of the Agua Clara locks, and it’s completely dark. The monstrous chambers are lit by a line of aggressive orange lights, and for a moment I’m lost in the enormity of it all.

Our first challenge is to come up alongside a 50ft catamaran. I’ve always struggled with the prop walk on my S&S Swan 37 Elixir , and the stiff tradewind isn’t doing much to help. With another monohull on the far side, we combine our three vessels into one and move through the locks in a confusion of lines and fenders.

We enter the lock behind the rusting hulk of a car carrier – its great steel hull, only an arm’s reach from the concrete walls. As the door closes, it seems as if everything is towering above us. Three locks raise us to a dizzying height of 28m above sea level. Before we enter Gatun Lake, we bid farewell to Romeo. The night is spent secured to a big, yellow mooring buoy, surrounded by the demonic screams of howler monkeys.

Container ship for company in the Panama Canal. Photo: Max Campbell

By 0800 our new advisor, Raphael, has leapt on board and the engine won’t start. Yesterday’s solid run had shaken a few things around. Despite Raphael’s scowling from the cockpit, we find the loose grounding bolt.

Within 10 minutes we’re hurrying through the isthmus of Panama, as the morning sun casts a stain on our improvised awning. Caymans dart across the channel, and all around us lies the endless tangle of Panamanian rainforest. This is the first time I’ve been inland on Elixir, and everywhere I look are dramatic views of the surrounding landscape. Vast tracts of jungle lead to rolling curves and deep channels gouged into the countryside.

It’s mid-afternoon when we arrive at the three descending locks. Instead of forming a raft, we’re instructed to enter the lock alone. Using our four, hired mooring lines, we park Elixir under the imposing bow of a Maersk cargo carrier. Four shore-based line-handlers lead Elixir from one lock to the next. After three slow descents, the final set of gates open, and for the first time in decades, Elixir ’s hull parts the Pacific.

The Panama experience

A Panama Canal crossing is a unique and significant moment. As a piece of engineering, the canal’s ambition is unrivalled, its construction representing both a remarkable achievement and a dark period of history which saw tens of thousands of workers killed by the venomous snakes, insects, and spiders which lay lurking in the Panamese jungle, as well as rife diseases including yellow fever and malaria.

The canal was finally opened in 1914, a chain of six locks covering 45 miles of waterway connecting the Caribbean Sea with the Pacific Ocean . The scale of each lock is vast: 110ft wide and 1,050ft long, and over 41ft deep.

These dimensions defined the biggest cargo vessels on the world’s oceans – Panamax ships – for over 100 years. In 2016 a significant extension was opened, with a new set of larger locks, known as the Agua Clara/Cocoli locks, over 1,400ft long, 180ft wide, and 60ft deep. The larger capacity allowed for giant NeoPanamax ships of up to 49m beam, carrying up to 20 rows of containers.

Yachts and smaller vessels continue to use the original Gatun/Miraflores locks. However, even the relatively smaller shipping which makes up the bulk of traffic in these locks can be intimidating.

We asked skippers and rally organisers who’d recently taken yachts through the Panama Canal for advice on preparing for a smooth crossing.

‘Smaller’ Panamax shipping and yachts use the original Gatun locks. Photo: Hemis/Alamy

The process

The first decision for cruisers planning a Panama crossing will be which approach to take. It’s widely recommended to allow some time to explore a little of the ABC (Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao) islands and San Blas Islands (indigenous name Guna Yala). The Oyster World Rally fleet all opted to go via San Blas islands. Allie Smith, head of events for Oyster, reports that as the yachts declared into Panama in San Blas, it reduced the formalities when they got to Shelter Bay, Panama.

A South American mainland stopover might appeal, but Venezuela is off the list for most cruisers at the moment due to security risks, though sailing Colombia , particularly Cartegena, is a popular alternative.

Another is sailing west up the Panamanian coast to explore Bocas Del Toro. For most the timings will be driven by passage lengths in the South Pacific, particularly allowing for islands closed to visiting yachts due the pandemic, and the South Pacific cyclone season (November to April). Hence most yachts cross between January and March.

The Oyster 565 Adalia enjoying the San Blas islands prior to transiting the Panama Canal. Photo: Oyster World Rally

Nick Bubb transited the canal with his family in their Nautitech 40 in March this year. “To maximise our time in the Pacific we were keen to transit the canal by at least mid-March and were ‘on a schedule’ since leaving the Canaries at the end of November. Happily it all worked out and, after several wonderful months in the Caribbean, we had a fantastic time in Bonaire and ended up staying there an extra week to ensure we got a good weather window to head to the San Blas Islands.

“We’d considered stopping off in Cartagena, Colombia, but it was just too windy. The weather off the Peninsula De La Guajira is notoriously bad and, despite waiting for a window, we still had over 30 knots and 3-4m seas at times.

“If you were organised and prepared to potentially sail upwind a little you could head direct to Shelter Bay Marina, get measured and then pick a date (within a two month window after measurement) and head off to San Blas before returning to transit the canal on your chosen date. This would certainly help if you have friends coming out to join you.”

The next stage is getting measured, and booking a transit date. This will vary depending on the time of year you want to cross. Bubb explains: “For a regular cruising boat that’s not part of a rally, it’s not really possible to book a transit date until the boat has been measured by the canal authorities. Like most people, we arranged this in Shelter Bay Marina, which is just a few miles from the canal entrance on the Caribbean side.

“Prior to our arrival in Panama, we were in contact with our agent (Erick at Centurion) trying to arrange a measurement date, however you can’t get this until you arrive and it’s not usually possible to be measured over public holidays, or on weekends, so if you’re keen to limit your waiting time, try to avoid these! We were given a transit date 12 days after being measured, which seemed pretty typical for a fairly busy time of year. We took care to arrive just after the Oyster World Rally and the World Odyssey 500 fleets had gone through, in order to avoid additional delays.”

Skipper Nick Bubb opted to take trusted friends as line handlers. Photo: Nick Bubb

Max Campbell, who crossed slightly earlier on his Swan 37 Elixir, experienced a similar time frame. “Three days after our arrival in Shelter Bay, a member of the Canal Authority came to measure Elixir, and issue our Ship Identification Number. I requested a transit date eight days later, in order to allow the line handlers to arrive. We arrived in a particularly busy time, alongside the Oyster World Rally and the World ARC. The longest time I heard of anyone waiting was three weeks.”

It’s a different experience if crossing with a rally. Allie Smith says she booked the week-long time slot that the 23 Oysters on the World Rally would transit the canal some 20 months in advance, and has already booked the crossing for the 2024 rally, although even for a large group of yachts precise dates and timings won’t be confirmed until the last minute. Yachts that had arrived in Shelter Bay before the Oyster fleet had a two- to three-week wait for their transit.

The measurement process involves the yacht being physically measured to include davits etc. For yachts around 65ft LOA any additional length can nudge you up a price bracket, increasing the costs considerably. “We had more boats in the bigger category than we expected, even after we’d sent in all the measurements of the boats,” explains Allie Smith. The measurer may also check mooring lines, holding tank facilities, and ask about engine speed and manoeuvrability.

Agents and advisors

For yachts not crossing as part of a rally, most owners pay for an agent to smooth the process. Bubb explains: “We’d recommend using an agent, especially in this Covid era, we didn’t meet many boats who hadn’t. Agent fees are $350 and made life a lot easier. They arranged all our paperwork and measurement certificates, plus booked the transit and generally saved a lot of faff and stress! The rules and regs seem to be always changing, so it can be a bit of a minefield. Erick also arranged things like fumigation, which is a requirement prior to departure for the Galapagos, along with the immigration and customs formalities.”

Heavy duty tyre fenders can be rented. Photo: Behan Gifford

Max Campbell also recommends taking an agent. “You can save yourself $200-300 by doing the work yourself, but personally I feel it’s well worth it. If you join the Panama Cruisers, you receive a discount for the transit, which is worth more than the price of joining, making you a saving!

There are also security risks to not taking an agent, Campbell explains: “With an agent, you can pay for the whole lot (canal fee, cruising permit, lines and fenders) with a bank transfer. They also usually cover the buffer fee, which is a deposit of $1,000 that is returned after the transit. If you don’t use an agent, it’s only possible to pay for your transit directly to the Canal Authority in the city of Colon.

“The Canal authority requires payment in cash, and the nearest cash machine is a few blocks away, in the middle of a city not known for its security.”

While an agent is optional, taking a canal advisor is not. An ACP Canal Advisor will be on board throughout the transit, usually a different one on each day. Advisors instruct skippers on how to navigate the locks, but skippers remain in charge of their own vessels. The advisors have thorough knowledge of the unusual currents in the canal, and may give instructions that seem counter-intuitive. They may also have varying experience of yacht handling.

Rafting overnight in Lake Gatun (don’t be tempted to swim, there are crocodiles!) Photo: Oyster World Rally

Bubb reports: “It’s important to remember that you have canal advisors on board, not pilots. They don’t take on any actual responsibility, don’t know how your boat will respond when manoeuvring, and we found they often went missing at key times. You are the skipper and you need to remember that.”

Yachts over 65ft have to pay a higher rate for what is referred to as a ‘pilot’ rather than an advisor, though this only demarks seniority, not a change of role. “There’s no difference at all apart from the fact that the pilot is automatically in charge, for example, if one of the rafts has two boats with advisors and one boat with the pilot. But they do exactly the same job,” explains Smith.

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In addition, each boat is required to have four line handlers (who must be over 16). It’s possible to recruit paid handlers via an agent, or find volunteers among other yacht crew in Shelter Bay wanting to gain experience before making their own transit. But there are advantages to taking known and trusted crew if possible.

Nick Bubb explains: “We opted to take three friends with us. A lot of people advise paying experienced locals to join you but I felt having strong guys who spoke perfect English was probably more useful. There are so many videos online that even if you haven’t been through before, you can really build up a lot of knowledge before you do it for real!”

You must have four lock lines (minimum 125ft long), plus springs for rafting, and plenty of robust fenders: usually a combination of the boat’s own fenders and rented black plastic-wrapped car tyres. Decks should be kept as clear as possible, and it’s advisable to cover solar panels with plywood or seat cushions to protect from the monkey fist knots on the end of lines thrown by the shore handlers. Allie Smith noted that some yachts experienced water coming up through hull seacocks, such as fridge drains, due to the water pressure as the locks fill.

Nick Bubb and family made a successful transit of the Panama Canal on their Nautitech 40 Quickstep Two. Photo: Nick Bubb

There are a number of scenarios for transiting the canal, including being a raft of up to three yachts abreast in the middle of the channel (known as centre chamber lockage); rafting onto a tug boat or small commercial vessel, such as a tourist boat; or tying onto the lock walls (the least preferable due to the risk of rig damage). Line handlers on the outside vessels manage the lines ashore.

If in a raft alongside other yachts the advisor on board the centre yacht will take the lead control. Nick Bubb explains: “The biggest boat by combination of length and horsepower will go in the middle of your raft, assuming you end up in the typical three-boat raft.

“A catamaran (assuming two engines) is very easy to manoeuvre under engine, but you’re slightly at the mercy of the central boat in the raft and really only there to help keep it straight.”

Bubb advises: “It’s definitely worth having a good chat to the other skippers in your raft as soon as you can, so you build up a good rapport. With a bit of insider knowledge from your agent, you might be able to figure out who you’re going to raft with the day before, so this makes things a bit easier.

Panama Canal at night. Photo: Max Campbell

He adds: “The load on your mooring cleats can be enormous so make sure they are in good shape with big backing plates etc. As we left the last Gatun lock, the ship ahead of us (they go ahead on the way up and behind on the way down) went full throttle and with the ensuing turbulence, we got thrown about all over the place. At one point all three boats were hanging off our stern cleat and the loads were huge.”

Allie Smith also recommends getting to know who you’ll be rafting with. As all the crew on the Oyster World Rally were known to each other, they rearranged boats and crew where necessary to ensure yachts with the most confident skippers were in the centre of the raft, while the most experienced line handlers replaced less experienced guests on the outside boats. “The boat in the middle has four spare crew that weren’t needed to do the lines, so we swapped them in and out so that we had people who knew what to do on the lines because, believe me, the pressure on the lines at some point will be pretty huge.”

Rafting up in the Panama Canal. Photo: Behan Gifford

Otherwise, Bubb’s main advice is to be thoroughly prepared. “Getting everything possible sorted in advance is a bonus. Aside from what’s going on with the boat, having lots of snacks and drinks is useful, with the extra line handlers, just feeding everyone is a full-on job! There is really good provisioning in Colon – Shelter Bay Marina offers a free shuttle bus into town and if you spend over $600 in the supermarket they give you a free ride back to the marina. Having all our supplies sorted prior to transiting minimised our time around Panama City.”

Overall, Bubb says, “it was fairly straightforward, super-interesting and quite a lot of fun! It was also a lot easier than sailing around Cape Horn!”

Panama Canal in a yacht costs

Fees for smaller vessels transiting the canal were raised in January 2020, meaning that post-pandemic costs for yachts which have delayed their entry to the South Pacific can be double those who crossed before 2020.

There is a jump in costs for yachts over 65ft, with the transit toll increasing from $1,600 to $2,400.

For yachts under 65ft which crossed in 2022 total costs were around $2,500.

Typical costs included: Canal Transit fee $1,600 Transit inspection $75 Transit Security fee $165 Canal EDCS (Electronic Data Collection System, transit booking form) $75 Agent fees $200-$350 Fenders & line rental $75-$200 Line handlers (if required) $100 each Cruising permit $235 Marina fees $300 Bank charges $60

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Panama: Noonsite’s Panama Canal Transit Guide

Official Noonsite Guide to transiting the Panama Canal by pleasure yacht. Here we outline the procedures for a handline transit of the Panama Canal. Find out what to expect, the paperwork required and how to transit with or without an agent, the equipment and time you will need and most importantly the costs.

Published 1 year ago, updated 6 months ago

ALERT: For the 2023/2024 season, delays are expected for small craft transits, and for larger yachts that have not pre-booked their transit. See this news item for more details .

Small craft vessels up to 38.1 meters (125 feet) in length overall normally transit the Canal as handlines (they do not use locomotives in the locks). Handlines under 20 meters (65 feet) will normally transit the Canal with a transit advisor; while handlines of 20 meters (65 feet) or more will normally require a pilot. See the official Procedures For Securing a Handline Transit document for more detail.

GENERAL PROCEDURES (details below)

1) Clear into the country of Panama ( see Formalities ).

2) Obtain an agent or make your own arrangements. See agent information at the bottom of these guidelines and a list of Clearance Agents in Panama Formalities.

3) Access the Panama Canal online registration system ASEM (Small Craft Service Management). This is compulsory and the only way to request a virtual inspection and pay. Submit your information at least 96 hours in advance of arrival in Canal waters. Pre-approval will be sent back by e-mail.

4) Call Cristobal Signal on VHF Channel 12 on arrival in Canal waters to record arrival time.

5) Contact scheduling department to see if papers generated (may take 24 hrs) and obtain transit schedule.

6) Arrange line handlers (need 4 + Captain).

7) Check or rent your equipment.

8) Collect your Transit Adviser.

9) Transit.

10) Collection of equipment.

Advance Notification and Admeasure Procedure:

The Panama Canal Authority requires 96 hours advance notification of arrival for vessels wishing to transit.

This is done by visiting the new ASEM Small Craft Management portal [ https://asem.pancanal.com/ ] which allows skippers to create a profile for their vessel and then provide all the required information for a transit in a virtual environment, doing away for the need for the previous physical measurement and inspection. Use of the online portal is mandatory.

You (or your agent) will need to upload various photos of the boat to demonstrate main measurements and projecting deck equipment, and dimensions will also need to be included. The normal questionnaire asking for arrival date, characteristics, last ten ports, crew details, etc. is also on the portal. Fees are payable through ASEM, by Credit Card or Bank Transfer, the system will give you the two options.

A pre-approval email will be sent to the customer once compiled. If you don’t get a reply of pre-approval from ASEM within 24 hrs, call the admeasurement office.

Southbound – Cristobal: [email protected] (507) 443-2298

Northbound – Balboa: [email protected] (507) 272-4571

On Arrival Pre-Transit:

Contact Cristobal Signal on VHF Channel 12 to get an arrival time on the canal system.

Inspection papers will be generated and will be received at the Canal Port Captain office for a final approval prior sending to the scheduling department.

Check the following day by calling the scheduling office to see if the papers are with the scheduler and request a transit date available on the queue. This may take up to 24 hours after your arrival.

When the inspection is complete you will receive your Panama Canal Ship Identification Number (SIN) which is good for the life of the vessel and an Admeasurement Clearance and Handline Inspection form, which is good for up to six months.

Fees are payable online through ASEM, by Credit Card or Bank Transfer, the system will give you the two options.

Payment will incur a 12.87 % charge by the canal authorities to users.

On July 12th, 2022, following the recommendation from the Panama Canal Authority (ACP) , the Cabinet Council of the Republic of Panama officially approved modifications to the Canal Tolls structure. Since 1 January 2023 there will be an increase in tolls for each of the next three years for yachts transiting the canal. See details below:

Less than 19.812m (65ft): $1,760
19.812m-24.384m (65-80ft): $2,640
24.384m-30.480m (80-100ft): $3,850
More than 30.480m (100ft): $5,000
Less than 19.812m (65ft): $1,935
19.812m-24.384m (65-80ft): $2,905
24.384m-30.480m (80-100ft): $4,235
More than 30.480m (100ft): $5,500
Less than 19.812m (65ft): $2,130
19.812m-24.384m (65-80ft): $3,200
24.384m-30.480m (80-100ft): $4,660
More than 30.480m (100ft): $6,000

TVI inspection charge:

All vessels $75 (this increased from $54 in April 2021)

Security charge:

All vessels $165 (this increased from $130 in April 2021)

Buffer/Security Deposit:

All vessels $1,060 (this increased from $891 in April 2023)

Additional costs:

Approx $100 for the rental of lines and fenders/tyres.
Adviser’s meal including delivery by launch – meal box $75 and launch service $182 per hour.
Food and drink costs for the transit crew.
Transport costs for volunteer line handlers.
Launch service (for example to bring out a late line handler): $182 per hour.
Agent (optional) $400-$500 for an agent (plus $100 each for “professional” line handlers). Note no buffer deposit is required.

Additional costs for larger yachts:

Vessels over 20 meter (65 feet) in LOA must have an AIS, otherwise, the Panama Canal Authority will provide a portable unit and a rental fee of $161 will be assessed.
Vessels over 125 feet LOA will be subject to a Freshwater Surcharge which will include the following components: a fixed fee of $10,000 per transit and a variable fee ranging from a minimum of one percent to a maximum of 10 percent of the vessel’s toll will be applied depending on Gatun Lake levels at the time of transit (i.e. if the lake has a higher level, the percentage will be lower and vice versa). Also there are Disruption Charges , Suitable Conditions Charges and Green Vessel Classification Charges .

Extra charges or fines: These can sometimes be incurred during transit, especially if you find yourselves with problems such as engine failure etc. Some examples include:

US$440 Delay of Transit for not maintaining your nominated boat speed, such as during a breakdown, or for requesting a stop-over in the lake.
You can pay US$2800 to request a next-day transit
Note: In the event of having a transit delay or breakdown and requiring shore assistance in canal waters, a registered agent must be contacted to assist with solving the problem and re-scheduling to continue the transit.

The ACP will return your buffer into the appointed bank account. This can happen in a week but might take longer.

Schedule Procedure:

Southbound transits (Cristobal – Balboa): Normally start late afternoon, anchoring in Gatun Lake for the night and finishing the following mid-afternoon.

Yachts with higher speed may transit up to Gamboa mooring. Then wait for the following day to complete the transit. Or may transit all the way through in one day as they can keep up a high speed to meet lockage times to tandem with a merchant vessel.

Northbound Transits (Balboa – Cristobal): Normally start around sunrise and finish the same day, late afternoon.

Yachts normally pass through the locks with small commercial ships.

Waiting Times:

During the months of February/March there is heavy small craft traffic due to the transiting of World ARC and Carnival Holidays (which means limited canal adviser availability). Yachts can expect a 5-10 day wait after the inspection before transiting.

Line Handler Procedure:

The ACP requires that you have four line handlers in addition to the Captain.

Note: It is highly recommended that you join someone else for transit before taking your own yacht through. See Mad About Panama for more details on how to find line handlers .

Equipment Procedure:

Most boats have to rent large fenders (normally tires wrapped in plastic) and long lines for their transit. If using an agent, this can all be arranged through them and they will collect all items after transit.

However, if using an unofficial agent, or no agent, the person you contract to rent equipment will most-likely only pick up the lines after transit. This has resulted in cruisers throwing away the used tires. Old tires are a mosquito breeding area; so cruisers are asked to make sure any tires and lines are picked up after transit by the person they came from, or to make arrangements to dispose of them properly.

Yachts transiting the Panama Canal should be aware that lines used in transit may well become oily, greasy and/or stained from rusty moorings and dirt from the locomotive railways. Agent Erick Galvez has brought this to the attention of the Panama Canal Authority urging a solution be sought, but yachts transiting should be aware that lines coming back from the wall, or moorings in Gatun, may bring unwanted dirt back to the boat, and appropriate precautions should be taken. All lines provided by the agent may look dirty, but should be clean and are simply stained.

Canal Advisers:

The Adviser appointed by the Panama Canal Authority will be on board throughout your transit. It’s important to remember that the adviser is not a Pilot in command, but as the name suggests, an adviser. You may not necessarily choose to take all the advice you are given, but do note most advisers know what can go wrong and how to avoid it. The adviser needs to be given proper meals while on board and bottled water with unbroken seals. If your transit is overnight, he will not stay on board and may not eat an evening meal prior to departure, however be sure to confirm this in advance as if hot food is not provided he will order a meal box which can cost several hundred dollars for the meal and delivery (see notes above under Fees). You may get a different adviser on your second day of transit.

Restrictions:

The optimum minimum speed to transit the Canal is 8 knots. The Canal Authority may deny transit if a handline vessel cannot maintain a minimum speed of 5 knots. However, a vessel may be towed through the Canal by another handline vessel if it can tow her at 5 or more knots, or the vessel owner can make arrangements to be towed, at their own expense, by a Panama Canal Authority launch.

The vessel must be equipped with a working whistle or horn. The vessel must have a toilet and holding the tank onboard (though the holding tank is not always checked). The vessel must provide the Pilot or Transit Adviser with a hot meal and bottled water, or there could be an additional charge to provide these items for them. An awning must be installed over the cockpit to provide the Transit Adviser and crew with shelter from the sun and rain. The vessel must maintain its schedule, regardless of weather conditions.

For further details see the official ACP Procedures For Securing a Handline Transit document.

Types of Lockages:

There are four types of lockages available to yachts: center chamber; nested; sidewall; or alongside an ACP Tug.

All vessels will be required to be capable of making a center chamber lockage. The other three options will be at the discretion of the Canal Port Captain.

Sloops may request center chamber or nested and say no to sidewall or alongside a tug.

Catamarans and Motorboats may select center, nested or sidewall and say no to tugs.

Center Chamber: The vessel is held in the center of the chamber by two bow and two stern lines. This type of lockage requires four 125‐foot lines not less than 7/8” in diameter, nor larger than 1 ½” in diameter.

Nested Center: This is where two or more vessels (yachts or a ferry boat) perform the entire lockage tied up or “nested” alongside each other.

Sidewall Lockage: This type of lockage uses two of the required 125‐foot lines to hold the vessel alongside the sidewall in the chamber. The walls of the locks are rough unfinished concrete, which can cause considerable damage to vessels not properly protected by fenders. Damage to masts or rigging on sailboats may also occur if the turbulence causes the vessels to roll and strike the sidewall.

Alongside an ACP Tug: Availability of this type of blockage depends on the ship traffic for the day, and as such cannot be scheduled.

VHF Channels:

Cristobal Signal Station and Flamenco Signal Station Balboa (Panama Canal Authority) listen on Channels 12 & 16 and use these channels for Port and Canal movements.

In the lake VHF is not usable, only mobile phone.

The website Mad About Panama has excellent information as well as a regularly updated Ebook covering all aspects of a yacht transit.

The official Panama Canal website has forms and reference documents, such as “Procedures for Securing a Handline Transit” and “Request for Transit Booking”.

Agents are optional and arranging your own transit is a straightforward process. However, the service of agents is available if you don’t want to do the paperwork for the transit yourself or if you have special timing requirements. The extent of the service depends on the captain’s requirements and negotiations with the agent.

Note that there are official agents, registered with the Canal Authorities, and unofficial “agents”, who in the main are taxi drivers. Non-registered agents are no longer a good option, as they will be held responsible if they register in the ASEM platform.

A few things to consider if using an agent:

If Transit Fees and Buffer (Guarantee Deposit) is paid via the agent and not directly, it should be made clear beforehand how and when the Buffer is refunded or accounted for.
Daily rate for line handlers – don’t forget to take into account the number of days your transit is expected to take.
Experience of line handlers and possible language barrier.

In the event of having a transit delay or breakdown and requiring shore assistance in canal waters, a registered agent must be contacted to assist with solving the problem and re-scheduling to continue the transit. Do your research and have an agent in mind should you need to contact them mid-transit for breakdown reasons. Note: when in the lake VHF is not reachable only mobile phone can be used for communications.

Back to Panama Formalities

Tips for Transiting the Panama Canal

By Diane Gorch
Updated: December 16, 2019

I scrambled out of the dinghy onto Minh ’s transom steps as a last-minute addition to the crew, the required fourth line handler needed for a transit of the Panama Canal. The French-flagged 41-foot Fountaine Pajot catamaran was weighing anchor in the Flats anchorage near the Port of Colon, a staging area for vessels preparing to enter the waterway, bound for the Pacific.

Amid a flurry of activity, Bruno, the only English speaker, offered me a kindly welcome aboard as we felt a bump on the port side: Mr. Tito, the rental agent, was delivering four tires wrapped in plastic bags to use as fenders, and four stout 125-foot polypropylene hawsers, which were also necessary for the passage through the canal. In another moment, on the starboard side, a 40-foot steel pilot boat nosed within inches of our hull, and the Canal Authority adviser stepped aboard Minh . Right away, he instructed the captain to get underway and proceed along the 2-mile channel toward the Gatun Locks.

For many cruisers, a transit of the Panama Canal is a milestone accomplishment. The canal itself is an engineering wonder of the world. Completed in 1914, it consists of six locks and 45 miles of waterway, a shortcut between continents connecting the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. It is immense in scale. Each lock is 85 feet deep, 1,000 feet long and 110 feet wide. For the original canal, the maximum dimensions for a Panamax vessel—the term used to describe the midsize cargo ships that will fit the locks—are 965 feet long and 106 feet wide. With only 2 feet to spare on each side, there is little room for pilot error. The design of this canal has dictated the parameters for shipbuilding worldwide for nearly a century.

There are three ways a yacht can proceed through the canal. Perhaps the most common is center-chamber lockage, where boats are rafted up two or three abreast. Yachts can also moor alongside a tugboat or small tourist cruise ship. Or they could be tied against the rough cement walls of the canal, less common and also less desirable because water turbulence can crash your rigging into the side wall. Our adviser told us we would raft up for a center-chamber configuration—one less thing to worry about.

As we motored ahead, we prepared the boat by covering the hatches and solar panels with seat cushions and other thick padding to protect them from the monkey’s fists, which are used by canal workers to heave messenger lines to the boats. We were gradually approached by another yacht, the 42-foot Froot Salid from Australia, to which we rafted up, as instructed by the advisers on each boat. Spring and breast lines held us firmly together. We entered the first Gatun lock after the ship ahead of us was secured. Canyonlike walls rose up on both sides. The captains kept the boats centered under the watchful eyes of the advisers, and soon the canal workers atop the high walls threw down the monkey’s fists with messenger lines to be tied to our hawsers. The workers hauled up our lines, and together the men and boats moved slowly forward to the proper position, where the workers secured our lines to bollards.

The advisers and canal workers communicate effectively with each other using walkie-talkies, but also by sharp whistling, reminding me of Scottish shepherds directing their dogs. I jokingly asked our adviser whether a man who couldn’t whistle could get a job here. He thought for a minute, laughed and said, “Probably not.”

In his book The Panama Cruising Guide (fifth edition) , Eric Bauhaus gives comprehensive information pertaining to transiting the canal. As a line handler, there were two things I needed to keep in mind. First, having a hawser or any other line go afoul of the prop during the transit is bad—really bad. The water churning around the vessel while the lock is filling is turbulent, made even more dangerous by undercurrents and the mixing of fresh and salt water of different densities. Do not fall in; even if your dog falls overboard or your prop gets fouled, do not enter the water for any reason.

The line handlers had to keep a steady tension on the hawsers, holding the boats in position against the turbulent waters.

The second hazard is when the monkey’s fist is thrown to your boat. The fist consists of a ball of lead, covered with woven rope, and it’s enough to crack the cranium of the unlucky swabby who wanders into its path. I was vigilant when the lines were thrown to Minh but was startled when the monkey’s fist intended for Froot Salid landed just ahead of me on Minh ’s deck!

When all was ready with the ship ahead and our rafted yachts, the massive lock gates behind us slowly closed. These impressive doors weigh 800 tons apiece, and are made from massive steel plates joined by hand-forged and hammer-driven rivets from the Steam Age. They are so precisely balanced on their hinges that only a 40 hp engine is required to open and close them.

When they were closed at last, the water began to swirl up in massive, powerful eddies, and the boats slowly rose. As this happened, the line handlers had to keep a steady tension on the hawsers, holding the boats in position against the turbulent waters. Pressures on the mooring cleats can be tremendous and in an upward direction, which the cleat installations must be able to withstand.

The churning water quieted, the lock was filled, and with a metallic rumble, the lock gate ahead opened. Four chunky electric locomotives, weighing 20 tons each, towed the ship forward into position inside the second lock. Once it was in position, our advisers directed us to move our rafted boats forward. Both vessels motored at dead slow into position, and the canal workers manning the bollards walked the hawsers along the wall and up the steps to the top of the next lock. Sharp whistles reminded us line handlers to raise our lines overhead as workers climbed the steps. When we moved into the canyon of the second lock, our lines were secured and the whole process slowly repeated, and again for the third Gatun Lock. After transiting these three locks, the boat lay 84 feet above the level of the Caribbean Sea from which we had started.

Halfway There

As the evening sky ripened to tangerine and scarlet, we left the third Gatun Lock and headed into Lake Gatun. This meandering lake was formed when the Rio Chagres was dammed to create a navigable waterway leading farther on toward the Pacific. The advisers guided us to a giant mooring float, where both boats moored securely with bow, stern and spring lines for the night. This is more convenient for prompt departures because anchors dropped in Lake Gatun might foul on 100-year-old logs or stumps still rooted beneath the dammed waters. As a chorus of howler monkeys heralded the approach of twilight, I dived overboard for a delicious swim in the sweet fresh water, and was soon joined by everyone on both boats, in spite of rumors about lurking crocodiles. Refreshed and relaxed, the wine was poured, the stars came out, and we slept.

After a French breakfast of coffee with fresh crepes and jam prepared by Annick and Charles-Henri, our advisers rejoined us around 0715 and we resumed our passage. We had to maintain a speed of at least 6 knots to stay on schedule. The well-marked shipping channel meanders just over 20 nautical miles through the lake. We kept to the side, as container ships and roll-on/roll-off ferries—or roros—passed us from both directions. It was a quiet passage, revealing glimpses of jungle vegetation, bird life and the geology of the isthmus as we went. Using a mixture of French, Spanish, Portuguese and English, we crewmembers and our cheerful adviser got to know each other a little better throughout the day.

Eventually, we approached the village of Gamboa, where Rio Chagres flows into Lake Gatun near the head of the Gaillard Cut. It is the only settlement along the canal because the waterway lies within a secured area of a large national park. Here the current running toward the Pacific becomes noticeable. Also, there is massive construction on the north side to widen the canal, so the water became muddy, and dreams of splashing in fresh water again slowly expired, if only for a minute. A drenching rain began, which continued for most of the afternoon.

Along the Gaillard Cut—also known as the Culebra Cut, which spans about 7.5 miles—the scenery changes. Here the canal was blasted and carved through rock and shale, right through the Continental Divide, making it the only continental divide on Earth you can sail across. It is still susceptible to landslides. There are sections where the steep, terraced cuts across mountainsides resemble Mayan step pyramids standing silent watch along the passage. Flanked on both sides by those pyramidlike mountains, we passed under the elegant Centennial Bridge, gracefully soaring above the canal.

I asked our Canal Authority adviser about the breakdown of yachts transiting the waterway. He estimated that of recreational boats moving into the Pacific, about 40 percent are French, 20 percent British, followed by German and Australian vessels. Relatively few American yachts pass through. Perhaps they are lured to stay in the Caribbean by the beautiful San Blas Islands, or the ease of obtaining permanent visa or residency offered by the Panamanian government. Fewer yachts pass from the Pacific to the Caribbean because the winds and currents to reach Panama’s Pacific coast are often contrary.

We approached the Pedro Miguel Locks, the first descent toward the Pacific. We rafted this time to a brand-new Amel 64, crewed by at least 16 cheerful 20-somethings. Now the raft of yachts entered first, with a ship looming behind us. We stared at its bulbous bow, thinking that this is as close as we ever want to come to a yacht crusher like this. Over came the monkey’s fists and messenger lines; we secured the hawsers and prepared this time to slowly ease them out as the water fell. In the outgoing locks, the turbulence is much less.

Exiting the Pedro Miguel Locks, the system of buoyage changes. We were now outward-bound, so green markers were kept to starboard; it was “port wine” from here on out.

We proceeded on through the man-made Lake Miraflores to the final two Miraflores Locks. In these chambers, we were lowered another 54 feet. As we approached the first lock, the sky opened up and rain poured down again, continuing for the entire transit of both locks.

The young people on the Amel were singing, dancing and playing guitar in the downpour. On Minh , Andre gallantly stood with a little umbrella over Annick, who was handling the port bowline on the final lock; both of them were soaked to the skin. Bruno mimed a shower scene using his line like a scrubber to wash his back. Laconic Charles-Henri would’ve been chewing a cigar if he’d had one, hunkered down at the wheel. All of this was observed by hundreds of tourists in the cozy, dry observation tower overlooking the second lock. As we exited into the Pacific, there, floating like a log in the water, lurked a fair-size crocodile.

We were now outward-bound, so green markers were kept to starboard; it was “port wine” from here on out.

Waving farewell, we separated from the Amel as the sun melted in the west, and proceeded to the Balboa anchorage where a Canal Authority vessel nosed alongside to pick up our adviser. We anchored at La Playita near the Flamenco Marina in Panama City. Already we were starting to feel the creeping nostalgia of a passage completed.

Our final dinner together was at a little cafe with great wood-oven pizza, wine and multilingual chat. In the morning we would go our separate ways. Annick and Andre would return to their boat in Portobelo, to bring it through the canal in a few weeks; Charles-Henri and Bruno would sail Minh on to the Marquesas and Tahiti. I would rejoin friends Claudia and Rolf aboard Tika and continue our cruise along the steamy Caribbean coast of Panama.

A lifelong sailor and licensed captain, Diane Gorch has been voyaging on yachts around the world for the past eight years.

Know before you go

When do boats go through: Most cruising boats transit from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean, and traffic peaks in February and March. This backs out to an optimal arrival time in French Polynesia’s Marquesas Islands (nearly 4,000 nautical miles away) as the Southern Hemisphere’s cyclone season wanes. To avoid the crush, plan to transit before the World Cruising Club rally passes through in late January. Earlier departures allow an interlude at the Galapagos; it’s easy to bide time in the beautiful Pearl Islands on Panama’s Pacific side too.

Plan ahead: Cruising boats can’t reserve a date in advance; it’s determined after official measurement and payment are completed with canal authorities. Even a quick transit will take a few days to complete these steps. During peak season, it might be several weeks from the time your boat is measured until your assigned transit date.

Cost to transit: Tolls for transiting the canal are set to hike on January 1, 2020, for the first time since 2012. Boats up to 65 feet will be charged a toll of $1,600; for most, that’s double the prior toll. Fees for measurement and security add nearly $200 in additional fixed costs. Other expenses include a Panama cruising permit; the cost to rent lines and fenders (standard boat gear is not sufficient); line handlers, if you need them; and, if you choose, an agent to handle arrangements. It’s easy to add another $1,000 in expenses to the transit.

Equipment required: Four robust lines of 1 to 1.5 inches diameter and at least 125 feet long are obligatory. Fenders too are necessary, and the standard kit on most cruising boats won’t cut it. Many boats use car tires wrapped in plastic to prevent scuffing, but large, sturdy fenders can be rented. Hiring an agent can be a shortcut to quality gear at reasonable rental rates, but it’s also entirely achievable to do this on your own. One requirement we didn’t anticipate was sufficient cockpit shade for the adviser; Totem was required to add canvas to our Bimini frame before transiting. It’s your responsibility to provide meals, snacks and beverages (Coca-Cola preferred) for your ACP (Panama Canal Authority) adviser.

Crew aboard: In addition to the ship’s captain, four line handlers are required. It’s common to pick up crew from other cruising boats, since transiting as a line handler is a time-tested way to gain valuable experience before taking your own vessel through. Experienced handlers can be hired if necessary for about $100 per person. In addition, you’ll also have an adviser assigned by the ACP on board for the duration of the active transit (advisers don’t spend the night aboard in Gatun, but line handlers will).

Greatest risks: Situations such as a line handler thinking about capturing the scene on a GoPro or cellphone instead of listening for directions; cleat access that’s encumbered by deck clutter; or a language barrier between adviser, captain and line handlers all present risks to crew and vessel safety, and are all too common in creating stressful situations during a transit.

Greatest assets: The assigned adviser is key to a safe transit: They have years of canal experience to understand the nuances of current flow in particular locks. A strong adviser, as well as a crew who listens and responds to that adviser, are the greatest assets for an uneventful transit.

Transit duration: Most cruising boats transit in two days, anchoring overnight in Lake Gatun. For boats that can motor at least 7.5 knots, a single-day transit might be assigned; this pre-dawn start winds down by late afternoon and is assigned at the ACP’s discretion.

Canal resources: The official Panama Canal site (pan canal.com/eng) is packed with information, but it’s not terribly user-friendly. By contrast, Mad About Panama’s website has a downloadable eBook with a clear orientation to all aspects of a canal transit. Outside the canal, Eric Bauhaus’ book, The Panama Cruising Guide , is a recognized authority.

Canal transit isn’t just about execution; it’s about the experience. Thanks to the historical nature of the canal, a wealth of books exists to increase your appreciation: The Path Between the Seas by David McCullough is one of the more exceptional reads. A visit to the museum at the Miraflores Locks for a real-time view and interpretive exhibits enriches a later transit. Don’t forget to have friends grab screenshots of your boat in one of the many webcams when your canal day arrives!

For Totem ’s posts on costs, process and experience, visit sailingtotem.com .

—Behan Gifford

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The Superyacht Captain’s Guide to Transiting the Panama Canal

A shortcut, saving about 8,000 nautical miles, between the prime yachting destinations of the Pacific Ocean and those of the Caribbean Sea, the Panama Canal is one of the world’s most important waterways. Cutting across the narrowest point of the Central American isthmus, today it sees over 12,500 ships pass along its 80 km length annually. At shipping agent Norton Lilly International, we deal with 19% of all these canal transits, from the largest cargo ships all the way down to superyachts and small leisure vessels. Norton Lilly International has operated on the Panama Canal since 1925; this long and prestigious history, as well as being a member of Experience Yacht Services alliance, means no one is better placed or more experienced in the field.

For a yacht captain, transiting the Panama Canal takes considerable planning, preparation, and paperwork, so if your itinerary calls for you to cross between the Caribbean and Pacific, Norton Lilly are the agent to help make this complex process much more straightforward.

With bilingual staff available 24/7 and offices at both ends of the canal, we will always be on hand with assistance and support throughout the process of transiting. From uploading documentation and reserving a transit slot to suppling additional crew and coordinating any required services before and after you cross, as captain you can feel secure in the knowledge that you are in safe and efficient hands.

“…the Panama Canal can represent a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience first-hand one of the engineering wonders of the world surrounded by Panama’s lush tropical beauty.” Joe Walden, CEO, Norton Lilly International (Panama)

Transiting the Canal

Photo for illustrative purposes, Property of the Panama Canal Authority

Smooth transits, particularly maiden ones, benefit from forwarding planning so contacting us several months before your desired transit date will allow you to keep up to date on any delays or seasonal congestion that might affect your plans. If you have a specific date in mind for your crossing, booking and reserving the slot can be done for you at an additional cost which is calculated according to the size of the yacht. The process begins with your Norton Lilly agent gathering the necessary paperwork from you – this needs to be presented at least 96 hours before your arrival in the canal zone – and updating the Panama Canal Authority (ACP) system with the relevant details. This includes the identifications and certifications of you, your crew, and passengers, among other things.

You’ll receive instructions on what to do on your arrival in the canal zone – the Balboa anchorage in the Pacific or Cristóbal breakwater on the Atlantic side. From there, we will coordinate the necessary inspection and payment to the ACP, communicating to you the time and place that your inspection by an official admeasurer will take place. The measurements taken here will dictate the cost and the type of crossing that you will have. Once these details have been entered into the system, you will be assigned a transit date if you did not reserve one.

Panama Canal Miraflores Locks

Between now and your transit date, you can spend the time as you wish. We can coordinate any necessary servicing your vessel needs, including fuel and lube oil replenishment, fresh water, waste disposal, repairs and so on. We will be on hand throughout this period as a reassuring presence, able to answer any questions or queries that may arise.

On transit day, we will have coordinated everything to ensure the process is as smooth and efficient as possible, keeping you informed of your start time and when your pilot will arrive on board, a requirement for all vessels over 20 metres in length. If your vessel has been measured as less than 38.1 metres in length, you will have a handline transit and will not be using your engines to clear the locks; vessels over 38.1 metres can use their engines. You will also welcome a crew of professional line handlers on board, who we will source for you, who will assist with clearing the three sets of locks – two on the Pacific side of the canal, Miraflores and Pedro Miguel, and one on the Atlantic end, Gatun.

Each lock is a vast 300 metres long so, depending on the size of your yacht, you may enter with other, potentially much larger, vessels raising and falling the 26-metre difference between sea and canal level. Once through the locks you are free to motor along at a minimum speed of eight knots, crossing the huge Gatun Lake where there is plenty of wildlife to keep an eye out for – crocodiles in the water and birds and monkeys around it, and through the impressive Culebra Cut, the canal’s narrowest point.

Smaller vessels are usually scheduled to transit in the evening if they are travelling from Atlantic to Pacific; this transit takes about two days, with the second section taking place during daylight. From the Pacific to Atlantic, you are likely to transit during daylight hours and complete it in a single day depending on your speed and lock availability.

Panama, hidden gem for Superyachts

“The Panama Canal is geographically well positioned, enabling yachts to reposition between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans in about 12 hours, but it is much more than merely a logistical pathway.” Joe Walden, CEO, Norton Lilly International (Panama)

Much more than just a transit point between two great oceans, Panama is a land of irresistible wonders. A 3,000-mile coastline is split between the white sand beaches, rainbow coral reefs and paradise islands of the Caribbean and the wild, empty shores, epic marine life, and big surfing waves of the Pacific. In between is untamed jungle filled with a vast array of flora and fauna, an age-old indigenous culture, a colorful heritage, and a cosmopolitan world city in capital Panama City. All this is relatively undiscovered and easily accessed from the many picturesque anchorages dotted along both coasts. This is not a destination to simply pass through, but one that needs to be explored, something that can be easily done with Experience Yacht Services . Providing a yacht agency to give captains’ peace of mind, you’ll also benefit from itinerary design services for a unique and adventurous way to discover Panama’s hidden gems.

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THE PANAMA PERSPECTIVE

Newsletter and real estate in panama, through the panama canal in your yacht: everything you need to know.

How to transit the Panama Canal in your yacht – preparation, costs, top tips and more from Behan Gifford for a smooth crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean Cape Horn sailors and ditch diggers sacrificed all to make the path between the Atlantic and Pacific easier for the rest of us. It is a surreal situation to find yourself floating in a small yacht alongside a giant ship in a box of water 25m above sea level. Entering the canal was thrilling, stressful, and awkward. Descending the last lock was euphoric. The Panama Canal is a gem to treasure.

Considering the alternative routes, the canal is a blink between oceans. Yet a smooth transit benefits from advance planning. Our research began about three months in advance after we learned how seasonal congestion can increase the waiting time from arrival in Colón to an assigned transit date. Most of the year, four to six days is typical. During the high season from late January through May, six to 20 days is the range from completion of measurement and fee payment until an assigned canal transit date. For South Pacific-bound boats, December until mid-January is a sweet spot for minimal delay.

The slowdown escalates with the arrival of the World ARC rally. Having waved the fleet off in Colombia we decided to spend a few weeks of leisurely sailing through the turquoise waters of Panama’s Guna Yala instead of adding to the spike in transiting vessels. Hiring an agent was our answer to first staying in tune with the length of the delay, then having an advocate who could help us find a slot to get through sooner during the peak-season waiting period. Read more at Yachting World

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9 Insider Tips for Sailing Through the Panama Canal

Transiting the Panama Canal is a big moment for a lot of sailors; it marks the move between oceans and hemispheres, and in either direction it's a change to something big and different. But it takes a lot of planning. You've got to time it, get paperwork, reservations, and a host of other details right. So what are some tips for an easier, more memorable transit?

Prepare to not actually sail
Arrange your own line handlers
Feed your advisor (and our crew) well
Prepare to be rafted (and don't make assumptions)
Budget beyond the fees
Use an agent
Be fluid in your schedule
Spend time on both sides of the canal
Take lots of pictures

There's a lot to be done, and you're working on all this in a context which might be culturally different, linguistically challenging, and on different time frames that you're used to. So be patient, relax, and read on to see how you can improve your transit.

You won't be sailing much, arrange your own line handlers, feed your advisor and your crew well, prepare to be rafted (and don't make assumptions), budget beyond the fees, use an agent, be fluid in your schedule, take time on both sides of the canal, take lots of pictures, bonus tip: learn a little spanish.

If at all. We didn't unfurl our sails once during the whole passage. There isn't much opportunity to sail, since the way through is narrow and there's a lot of big ships coming through. If the wind isn't cooperative, you can't tack all over the place, and if it is, you still need maximum maneuverability.

The entire transit involves six sets of locks - three on each side of the canal - and a passage across Gatun Lake. The route through Gatun is buoyed with a channel, and you will have an advisor on board who will frown on attempts to leave the marked channels. Even the "Banana Cut" shortcut is discouraged, because of potential depth issues and concerns about submerged objects.

Finally, the minimum "full ahead speed" to transit the canal in "standard times" is 8 knots. While this applies more to large vessels and barges, there IS a time limit and a schedule, and if you are too slow, you may miss your schedule and incur fees. There's no time to hunt for wind, or go anything less than as fast as you can go.

It's best to plan on motoring the entire distance, and the odds are your advisor will give you a hard time if you try to set the sails. The trip is only 51 miles from end to end, but you need fuel and time for maneuvering on either end.

You need four line handlers besides the helmsman. They are supposed to be at least sixteen years old; when we transited, our son was old enough but our daughter was not.

An agent can arrange paid line handlers for you, and the cost will be around $100 per handler. There's no guarantee they know anything about boats and line handling or have any experience, and the odds are good they won't speak anything but Spanish. No matter who you have handle the lines, you're going to need food and space for them on the boat, possibly overnight.

There is an alternative to hiring random strangers - there are almost always cruisers and sailors looking to get experience before they bring their own boat through. Or people who just like doing it, it's a fun trip and a fantastic experience. For our transit, I had a friend whose grandfather helped build the canal, and he had a bucket list dream to transit the canal on a small boat. He and his wife - both skilled sailors - rounded out our team of handlers with my wife and sixteen-year-old son.

Ask around on cruising nets and web sites, at the marinas and clubs on either side of the canal, and put the word out with your other boat friends you're looking for help.

And you might benefit from taking a transit or two through before you take your boat, so you know what to expect.

The Canal Authority will assign a canal advisor to help you through the canal. This is a good thing; the advisors we had were competent and knowledgeable. But it helps to be on good footing with them, and one of your responsibilities is to provide meals for your advisor when they are on your boat.

Our advisor on the first leg told us some funny/horrific stories about some of the treatment and terrible food he has had. With us serving hand made Caribbean meat patties and home baked chocolate chip cookies, we had a good rapport and a happy advisor. Though I've never seen someone use scorpion pepper sauce like ketchup before; the guy must have had an iron stomach, but he liked our cooking!

A word of caution - if you do NOT have acceptable meals for your advisor, meals may be provided for you. The advisor is within his rights to call for food if you do not meet your obligations, and that is expensive since they may charge you to buy the meal and deliver it by boat. The meal might only cost $10, but the delivery fee by boat could be $300!

It's good to take care of the advisor and treat him well, because if there are any difficulties you want him on your side.

The odds are good that as a small boat headed through the canal, you will be rafted to other small boats. By "small" I mean "not an enormous ship," as we were a 53' boat rafted to a 58' catamaran. So "small" is relative. Have fenders and lines ready for this beyond those rented for the transit, even if you've reserved a solo, center position transit you don't know how it will work out.

You can not assume that everyone (or anyone) on the boats you're rafted to knows what to do. If you're the less powerful boat, you may go through the locks with your engine idling in neutral while the other boat powers the raft and steers.

We had some interesting issues with our rafting partner. There was a professional captain at the helm, but several of the crew seemed uninvolved and somewhat clueless. The first time we rafted, some of their crew were busily tying lines from their bow cleat to their own stern cleat instead of to us, while others looked on, taking pictures and even sipping wine. It got sorted, but with language and skill barriers it took a little work.

The skipper also was very heavy handed with the throttle, which meant we were skewing and slewing all over the canal every time we tried to speed up or stop. Our advisor took to directing me with nods and hand signals to engage our prop from time to time to offset the meandering around, but it was disconcerting to be headed for the canal wall and not be the one responsible for steering the raft!

That's another reason to treat your advisor well and establish a good rapport. He will talk to the other boat's advisor, and if he knows he can trust you to listen to instructions, it helps a lot.

Crossing the Panama Canal isn't cheap, this is known. The fees for your boat are pretty basic - as of this writing, it costs $1,600 USD for vessels under 65 feet. This changes every few years, so always check for the latest rates.

But the tolls are only the start of it. You can expect to pay for, besides tolls, estimated costs in USD of:

A security deposit or "buffer fee", to cover any incurred costs. They may waive this if you use an agent, otherwise it will be returned to you a few weeks after your transit and may be $900 or more.
Security fee: $130
Inspection fees: $54.00
EDCS Fee (Electronic Data Collection): $75.00
Agent fees: $350.00
Line and fender rentals and equipment returns: $75.00
Cruising permits: $200
Entry permit (by yacht): $110
Line handler pay, if needed: ~$100 per handler
Transportation costs for volunteer handlers; bus fare back to the other side: $40.00/person
Dockage/Mooring on either side depends on where you go and how long you stay there.

Some of these fees vary by who you use, but you can expect to spend up to another $1,000 or more beyond the canal toll. The official canal payments should be in cash or bank wires.

There are some ways to save money, like not using an agent and getting friends to handle lines for you. But a few things make little sense to skimp on, like the line and fender rentals. They cost much more to buy and you only need them once, so it's easier and cheaper to just rent them.

An agent isn’t required to arrange your transit. But it is convenient and much easier, especially if you don't speak Spanish. This is more the case heading south from the Caribbean, as the offices in Colón are scattered around town, few people in them speak English, and the Colón has a reputation for being less than safe for visitors. On the Pacific side, all the offices are in one place and there are more multi-lingual employees available to help.

Our agent was indispensable and made the entire process run smoothly. He dealt with everything from clearing us into Panama in Colón (a feat unto itself), to working with the canal authority when our time slot came up. They postponed us for hours, and our agent was in constant touch with the authority and us about how it was progressing.

Your agent can also arrange the lines and fenders rentals and collect them at the end, will set up the measurements and inspections, and handle any snags. Our agent offered real fenders instead of the tires-on-ropes a lot of places rent out. From our experience I'd recommend using a good agent, for the hassle saved it pays for itself.

Scheduling a Panama Canal transit is more like hitting a window than a precise appointment. You can't even get a fixed transit time until you're in Panama, so you can't just pick a date six months out and aim for it. You need to decide what time, roughly, you'd like to transit and arrive well before it.

Once you arrive in Panama and start the process rolling, you still won't know your exact dates and times right away. And you might run into delays, or get slipped from your booked date. The marinas around there are used to this. If you need an extra week, all you need to do is pay for it most of the time. If you need an extra two or three weeks, you can slip the lines and go somewhere interesting for a while, then come back.

Even once your booking arrives, it may not go as planned. We were supposed to start out mid-day to early afternoon and make our transition straight through. Then the advisor didn't show. And we got a call that our time had slipped. And slipped some more. By the time the advisor arrived on the boat and we entered the canal, it was dark. We ended up spending the night on a mooring in Gatun Lake, where we waited for the next advisor. Who was a few hours late...and so on.

We got through, but if you once you understand that you're on their schedule, not your own, and a little tiny sailboat is always at the back of the line from the big ships with tons of cargo, you can relax a little and go with it. They will not forget about you.

We made a mistake with our canal transit we regret to this day - we planned poorly and didn't give ourselves enough time on the Caribbean side and we missed spending time in the San Blas islands. Every cruiser we've met since we transited seven years ago says "WHAT? You missed the San Blas? That's terrible!" We figured to get through the canal fast to leave the boat in Panama City and return the U.S. for our first holidays stateside since leaving to cruise, and had friends flying in to transit with us.

Panama has some delightful cruising on the Caribbean side and the Pacific side. People tell me the San Blas Islands are stunning (grrr!), and the area around Shelter Bay Marina has many delightful walks with tropical birds and monkeys and is close to a beautiful national park. On the other side, Panama City is a cool city, with a mix of modern steel and glass high rises and old historic buildings. There are some decent restaurants, shopping, and you can get most anything for the boat. The canal museum is one of many fascinating places to visit in town. To get away from the city, Las Perlas is another pretty and remote island group that’s an easy sail from the city. We saw fin whales on the way out there.

So give yourself some time to explore Panama. It's not just that place the canal runs through.

Transiting the Panama Canal can be a once in a lifetime experience, and something you will remember the rest of your cruising and sailing life. It's not something many sailors get to do, so make it special and make memories.

Some pictures from this article are from our transit. Our daughter was too young to handle lines, so we designated her the official snacktician/photographer for the expedition, and set her to take pictures of everything she could when she wasn't baking fresh cookies and heating patties.

The canal is a modern wonder of the world, especially when you consider it's not all that modern - it was built over 100 years ago. That’s more impressive, since they built it with simpler tools and technology than we have today. To give you a sense of where we were with machinery and construction technology, the Model T Ford was not available when construction started on the canal. They did the heavy work with steam, not diesel. A visit to the Miraflores Locks museum is a must-see for anyone who has made the transit.

As you cross the canal, you'll see both amazing wildlife and signs of the original excavations and project works. We saw crocodiles, birds galore, armadillos, and fish on our crossing. While the canal areas feel busy, parts of the lake transit fell like a boat ride through the middle of a jungle. And you'll see a lot of interesting ships and boats. Up very, very close you’ll see them.

So take pictures, make memories, and enjoy the ride. It's something you'll get to talk about for a long time.

Please and thank you go a long way in every country, and if you can tell a cab driver where you want to go and place an order at a market or restaurant, your time in Panama will be a lot more pleasant. People there are welcoming and nice, but few admit to speaking English if you ask, I suspect because they're worried about speaking it badly .

With even a few phrases, you can make a bridge to help communication. Many times when someone said "no hablo Inglés," once they realized how truly terrible my Spanish was, they would give their own wobbly English a try. It was always better than my Spanish. So do yourself a favor and download Duolingo or some other app now and start practicing your manners and directions.

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PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT TOUR

Partial transit through the Panama Canal begins with entry into the Miraflores Locks, where our ship starts an ascent of 18 meters in two stages, leaving behind the waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Next, we enter the Miraflores Lake, a small oasis of fresh water that separates the two locks on the Pacific side of the Canal. We sail peacefully through its waters until we reach the Pedro Miguel Locks, where the ship ascends another 9 meters, providing a breathtaking panoramic view..

Once we exit the locks, we will spot the Centennial Bridge, an architectural marvel that stretches over the waters.

Continuing our journey, we venture into the famous Culebra Cut, nicknamed for its winding curves resembling a snake’s movement. We sail 13.7 kilometers along this picturesque cut as we head towards the fascinating area of Gamboa, home to the facilities of the Dredging Division of the Panama Canal Authority.

Upon arrival at these facilities, passengers disembark to make way for the next part of the adventure. They board our comfortable buses that will take them to the Flamenco Marina. During this journey, they can enjoy the lush landscapes of the region, on a trip that lasts approximately 45 minutes.

This partial tour of the Panama Canal is an experience that combines the wonder of engineering with the natural beauty of the surroundings, offering our passengers an adventure filled with awe and excitement. We invite you to join us to discover the grandeur of this engineering masterpiece and the splendor of Panama’s nature. We look forward to welcoming you to this unforgettable experience!

Saturdays and Sundays

The schedules are confirmed one day before departure by the Panama Canal Authority.

PRICE PER PERSON

For private groups, click here, enjoy this great experience with us.

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If you are preparing to leave the Caribbean and transit the Panama Canal on your sailboat, it is almost inevitable that you will anchor in Colon waiting no less than a week while the transiting details are finalized. The city of Colon closely resembles those all-too-ubiquitous photos in a magazine of a Middle Eastern war torn country. The dilapidated walls of numerous buildings of a future promised by foreigners crumble into the poorly-maintained streets. Garbage litters the avenues, the homeless meander the streets barefoot, and crime is rampant.

Craig and I had sailed to Panama via Jamaica and after anchoring in the muddy harbor, we had to deal with the legalities of clearing in. I can properly butcher the Spanish language and unintentionally insult the culture, but I cannot proceed further than that. Fortunately, there are locals familiar with the immigration system who, for a small price, will come with you through the entire process as translators. Agents and even local cab drivers can help with canal transit paperwork. I highly recommend using Tito for transit details and Dracula for clearing in. Both their numbers can be obtained either through the Panama Canal Yacht Club’s friendly manger, Roger, or by asking other cruisers, as Tito and Dracula circulate throughout the yachting community.

Despite Colon’s destitution there are two grocery stores that offer all the amenities for food provisioning. There is no chandlery in Colon but there are stores a two hour bus ride away in Panama City that almost always stock what you need.

Although Craig and I had yet to transit the canal on our 36 foot monohull boat, Homeward Bound , we were asked to be line handlers on a 60 foot catamaran. It is mandatory to have a crew of at least four line handlers, not including the captain, and a pilot. It is a good idea to volunteer as a line handler on someone else’s boat to get an idea of what to expect.

When transiting in your own boat, you will be expected to feed the crew and pay the bus fare for those returning back to Colon once you have reached the Pacific side. The crew, with the exception of the pilot, will spend the evening as this is an overnight procedure. However, if you originate from the Pacific side, your boat will leave early in the morning and reach the other side at night.

The price is determined by the size of the boat and it currently stands at $600 for small boats under 50 feet and $850 or more for those above, not including a deposit that is returned if no mechanical complications arise during the transit.

You must rent tires wrapped in plastic to use as fenders and arrange for them to be returned, and rent dock lines of 150 feet. I recommend covering or removing solar panels as the line throwers working the canal have yet to perfect their aim. Although the paper work requires you to maintain 8 knots this is only mandatory from the Pacific to the Atlantic; 6 knots is sufficient for the opposite direction.

It is a possibility that you will have to raft alongside another boat and enter through the locks with a large ship like a tanker. (During our transit, we were rafted next to a tug boat and were positioned behind the monstrosity, M/V American Tern .)

Once the pilot has been dropped off on your yacht you are set to make an incredible voyage, for the canal is truly an amazing man made achievement. The Gatun Locks, the first while in transit from Colon to the Pacific, will have your boat rising, as a controlled amount of water pressure gushes in. The view from the third and final lock allows you to see the other two lower locks at work as the gates slowly close shut.

Overnight you will anchor in the fresh water lake of Gatun. Swimming is not only prohibited but also not advisable as numerous alligators call this lake home. The pilot will be picked up at this point and returned in the morning. The morning transit consists of motoring through the lake and, if you are fortunate enough to get some wind, sailing is allowed. You will also travel underneath two bridges, one being the remarkable Bridge of the Americas.

If you never have the opportunity to take your boat through but you find yourself in Panama, don’t miss this experience. Volunteering as a line handler on a boat or taking a paid excursion through the Panama Canal will leave a lasting memory of this man-made wonder.

This is the Canal

The Panama Canal is approximately 80 kilometers long between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. This waterway was cut through one of narrowest saddles of the isthmus that joins North and South America.

The Canal uses a system of locks—compartments with entrance and exit gates. The locks function as water lifts: they raise ships from sea level (the Pacific or the Atlantic) to the level of Gatun Lake (26 meters above sea level); ships then sail the channel through the Continental Divide.

Each set of locks bears the name of the town site where it was built: Gatun (on the Atlantic side), and Pedro Miguel and Miraflores (on the Pacific side).

The lock chambers—steps—are 33.53 meters wide by 304.8 meters long. The maximum dimensions of ships that can transit the Canal are: 32.3 meters in beam; draft -12 meters in tropical fresh water; and 294.1 meters long (depending on the type of ship).

The water used to raise and lower vessels in each set of locks comes from Gatun Lake by gravity; it comes into the locks through a system of main culverts that extend under the lock chambers from the sidewalls and the center wall.

The narrowest portion of the Canal is Culebra Cut, which extends from the north end of Pedro Miguel Locks to the south edge of Gatun Lake at Gamboa. This segment, approximately 13.7 kilometers long, is carved through the rock and shale of the Continental Divide.

Ships from all parts of the world transit daily through the Panama Canal. Some 13 to 14,000 vessels use the Canal every year.

The Canal has a work force of approximately nine thousand employees and operates 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, providing transit service to vessels of all nations.

Source: website of the Panama Canal Authority, www.pancanal.com

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16 Comments

Sounds like a fantastic adventure that I never even thought about or heard of until now! It sounds like Roy was amazing and made this trip perfect for y’all. And that boat WOW it is nice. Thanks for sharing your lovely adventure.

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That looks like a fun experience!!

Now I want to fly there and volunteer as a crew 😉 I had no idea it was such an adventure to traverse the canal. It sounds awesome! 😀

WOW! Hope I can traverse the Panama Canal someday via my boat. We’re cruising around the Bahamas currently but maybe in a couple years!

It’s a pretty amazing experience!

I thought it was cool watching the boats cross, but this is such an interesting perspective from someone actually making the crossing!

What a cool adventure! I would really explore the world a bit more from the sea. I just wished I knew how to sail, haha.

No sailing skills required to hitch a ride most times.

Oh, that’s good to hear!

This is such great information! And I loved seeing the A&M shorts and Cowboys hat in your pic!! <3

Haha. Thanks!

Sailing culture is so foreign to me – I’ve paddled through locks before, but nothing near the logistics of this voyage! I think I’d opt for hitching a ride and letting someone else figure out all the hard work! Shelter Bay sounds like a fun place to hang out, though!

Shelter bay was fun. The nearby jungle is wild – we have another post about that. Howler monkeys!!!

Congratulations on a successful passage! I am glad it was such a smooth experience for y’all!! 🙂 Jan / Mom

Transit the Panama Canal on Al Capone’s Yacht

01/30/2014 By Panama Eric

The Isla Morada boat, which belonged to U.S. mafioso Al Capone, now ferries tourists across the Panama Canal, which it has transited more than any other vessel.

( Star Phoenix) The 101-year-old luxury yacht Isla Morada has been upgraded with new navigation equipment and improved safety features. And the barrels of rum have been moved out of the bedrooms.

That’s where Al Capone kept them when smuggling rum from Cuba to the Florida Keys on its way to his Chicago speakeasies.

Capone also used the bedrooms while hosting elaborate parties aboard his 96-metre-long Isla Morada with its luxury features and finishes. You too can lounge amid that

same luxury, sipping rum as you cruise through the Panama Canal.

Isla Morada is one of three vessels used by Canal and Bay Tours to conduct public tours of the awe-inspiring Panama Canal. For a mere $1,800 you can transit the canal in a cruise ship with 2,200 other passengers. Or you could run off to sea and view the Panama Canal from a freighter’s deck, but that’s a lonely life.

A more interesting option that only costs $165 US lets you lounge on Capone’s yacht for an eight-hour cruise through the canal, where you will hear the story of how this engineering marvel was created.

After completing the Suez Canal in 1869, France was inspired to tackle the narrow isthmus connecting North and South America to build a canal that had been talked about since 1815.

The French effort was a disaster, mostly because of mosquitoes. More than 22,000 workers died of yellow fever and malaria. The French didn’t know how to fight those diseases, plus they believed they could dig a sea-level canal, similar to the Suez, despite the 110-metrehigh land bridge between the two oceans.

Then-president Teddy Roosevelt persuaded the U.S. Congress in 1903 to buy out the bankrupt French effort for $40 million and then, backed by gunboat diplomacy, he persuaded Panama rebels to revolt from Colombia’s jurisdiction and create their own new country. To thank the U.S. for supporting its revolution the new nation of Panama allowed the U.S. to build and own a canal through their country.

U.S. engineers used the massive excavations the French left behind, but knew that the canal also required traditional lift locks to carry vessels up and over Panama’s high, rocky spine.

Guides on the Isla Morada tour point out the many engineering challenges along the canal, including the steep Gaillard Cut through a mountain where avalanches killed many workers.

The Isla Morada is actually older than the canal. Its wooden hull was crafted in a New England ship yard in 1912 when the vessel was christened Santana. The first ship passed through the canal in August 1914.

Capone bought the Santana in the 1920s during the Prohibition era and changed its name to one of his favourite islands in the Florida Keys.

The U.S. government wouldn’t permit Capone to sail Isla Morada to another island where he took up residence – Alcatraz in San Francisco Bay. He involuntarily moved there in 1931 after being convicted of income tax evasion.

His yacht was seized and drafted into the U.S. Navy where it served as an officer training vessel during the Second World War.

In the 1960s, it arrived in Panama City as a floating boutique hotel, thanks to the five luxury bedrooms Capone had crafted.

Since then, the Isla Morada has transited the Panama Canal more than any other vessel afloat. The cruise is an eight-hour tutorial about one of the world’s most challenging engineering feats.

Tour the Panama Canal on the Isla Morada, Al Capone’s legendary rum runner
Panama Canal crossing in two minute time lapse
Traverse the Panama Canal with SeaDream Yacht Club
A small-ship view of a Panama Canal transit
Panama Canal Transit sets tonnage record

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The Panama Canal

A trip through the Panama Canal on a small ship lets you see the working operations of the century-old locks of one of the top engineering marvels of the world.

May 29, 2013 // by Sandra Friend

Wind whipped the Panamanian flag against the bright blue backdrop of the Pacific Ocean as a small boat gave chase after our ferryboat. We’d just rounded the Amador Causeway, and slipped into a pre-determined position for transit behind a massive container ship entering the waters of the Panama Canal. Dozens of ships lay at anchor across the horizon.

As our tour guide joked in English and Spanish over the loudspeakers, people milled about the boat, curious about everything that was happening around us. In the distance, sunshine glinted off the skyscrapers that define the shoreline of Panama City, towering above the Pacific like some science-fiction landscape.

An Engineering Marvel

In a country of extreme contrasts, on a slender isthmus that is the bridge between continents, the Panama Canal remains an object of world curiousity and necessity. In the 1600s, the Spanish used an overland and water route to move the riches of the New World from Pacific to Atlantic. In 1855, the Panama Railroad transported goods and people between the seas. A French entrepreneur began the first Panama Canal project along the railroad’s route, but the effort ran out of funds. After assisting Panama with their liberation from Columbia in 1903, the United States took on the effort, completing the one of the largest engineering projects ever in the history of the world. It opened in 1914, and was turned over to Panama in 1999.

For a ship to enter the Panama Canal, it’s no cheap proposition. Tariffs span from $800 for the smallest of boats to $375,000 for the largest of cruise ships, and are based on a variety of factors, including tonnage, type of cargo, and passengers on board. Nearly 15,000 ships of every shape and size – as long as they are of “Panamax” size or smaller, able to fit through the locks – transit the canal each year. It’s a multi-billion dollar operation, and the primary driver of the country’s economy. Payable in cash, the fee must be wired in at least a day or two before transit, after which the ship is assigned its place in line at a specific time.

Entering the Canal

It took less than 30 seconds for a Panama Canal pilot to disembark in the swells and climb aboard our craft. When you transit the Panama Canal, an official pilot must steer your ship. Even the captains of nuclear submarines must give up command to these specially-trained captains, who know both the locks and the vagaries of the man-made and natural waterways along the way.

Entering the Pacific, the Panama Canal doesn’t look like a canal at all. In fact, very little of the canal is a straight, narrow passageway. Only immediately around the locks and through the 8-mile Gaillard Cut, which slices deeply through the mountains of the Continental Divide, do you feel like you’re in a canal. Most of the route uses natural bays, such as the Gulf of Panama along the Pacific, and rain-fed reservoirs that have spread out into large lakes, such as Gatun Lake.

Passing under the Bridge of the Americas – connecting the continents of North and South America – your craft is firmly in the canal route, slipping past sailboats at anchor, dive shanties, and massive docks for loading and unloading cargo ships. But you’re not committed to the transit – other than financially – until you enter the Miraflores Locks.

Going Through the Locks

After a century in operation, you’d think that the Miraflores Locks would show some age. Not so. Their thick Portland cement walls show little stress and weathering. The double-walled steel doors, forged in Pittsburgh, have a green patina like a bronze statue, the effect of fresh water meeting salt water. This collison of waters “is like a sushi bar for the birds,” said our guide, as we noted cormorants and ducks diving into the waters and frigate birds endlessly circling overhead.

A giant arrow points to the side that your ship must enter, as there is a pair of chambers at each lock. Ours joined a container ship from Croatia in the thousand-foot lock, with a pair of tugboats between us like a giant set of bumpers. For most container ships, there is only a six-inch clearance on both sides of the lock. We had plenty of room. To keep the larger ships from banging against the sides of the chambers, pairs of locomotives hold their ropes taut, guiding them in and out of the locks.

To step us up from sea level to the level of Miraflores Lake, fresh water from the lake above flows by gravity through tunnels in the concrete into the chamber, raising the level of the water to fill the chamber within 8 minutes. From our ferryboat, we could watch the water rising up the tiles that marked the depth of the chamber. It can take two steps through two separate chambers to reach Miraflores Lake, due to how much the tides can vary in the Pacific Ocean. As our boat rose to lake level, we came face-to-face with the crowds on the balconies at the Miraflores Locks Visitor Center. We’d been there two days before, watching the transit process from above, so it was even more interesting to be on the other side of the gates.

Above Sea Level

Gatun Lake – a reservoir that spreads through the vast central rainforest of Panama – feeds the entire canal transit process, making this engineering marvel utterly dependent on seasonal rainfall in the rainforest. To get to Gatun Lake, however, our boat had another set of locks to transit – the Pedro Miguel Locks. With no visitor center adjoining them (unlike Gatun and Miraflores), they can only be seen on a transit of the locks. While they seem smaller than the locks at Miraflores – mainly because they have only one chamber on each side, not two – they’re essential for that last little boost to 87 feet, the highest point above sea level.

From Miraflores Lake, between the locks, we had the best view of the new Panama Canal locks under construction. At each of the three locations along the canal where locks exist, they are creating one more wider, longer lock (180 feet by 1,400 feet) reachable from the same section of waterway. Progress doesn’t look to be far along in most spots; the original 2014 opening date has been pushed to 2015.

Once above the Pedro Miguel Locks, we cruised under the Centennial Bridge, where the Pan-American Highway crosses overhead, and headed for shore at a dock within the Gaillard Cut. Our half-transit of the canal took four hours.

Panama-based Aventuras 2000 offers both a partial and full transit of the Panama Canal. Ours was included in a larger escorted package tour through Caravan Tours but can be booked separately if you’re already in Panama. Unless you explicitly request a tour with an English-speaking guide, all narration will be in Spanish. Snacks, drinks, and lunch are included in the fee, and there are discounted rates for children. Ask whether transportation to/from your Panama City hotel is included.

On the Aventuras 2000-owned ferryboat, the journey is delightfully breezy thanks to the wind off the water. You’re under cover on an open-air deck, so no need for sunscreen or a hat. However, be sure to keep hydrated! An infinite supply of bottled water and soft drinks are part of the cost of your tour.

One of the biggest advantages of the Aventuras 2000 tour is their daylight transit. The direction of transit depends on where their boat is and the direction of ship traffic that day. If you journey through the Panama Canal on a cruise ship, the trip may be after dark, as ship traffic runs Pacific to Atlantic in daylight hours, Atlantic to Pacific evenings and overnights. A full transit between oceans takes 8 to 12 hours.

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Panama Canal & Locks Transit by Boat

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Be sure to read the Special Notes further down this page for important requirements and restriction.

Experience the full wonder of the Panama Canal with a crossing of the canal by tour boat on this daylong adventure. Travel by ship's tender to the Gatun Yacht Club, where you will board an air-conditioned transportation for the narrated drive through the isthmus to the small village of Gamboa. Located on the banks of the Chagres River and the Panama Canal, Gamboa lies in the heart of Panama's 55,000-acre Soberania National Park. Large tracts of lowland tropical rainforests that nourish thriving plants and harbor enchanting animal populations surround the village. From Gamboa, embark on your ferry tour boat for a partial transit of the canal. Cruise through the Gaillard Cut along your journey. The Gaillard Cut is an artificial valley that cuts through the continental divide in Panama. The cut forms part of the Panama Canal, linking Gatun Lake, and thereby the Atlantic Ocean, to the Gulf of Panama and the Pacific Ocean. Construction of the cut was one of the great engineering feats of its time; the immense effort required to complete it was justified by the great significance of the canal to shipping, and in particular the strategic interests of the United States of America. After crossing the Gaillard Cut, enter the Pedro Miguel Locks, which lower your vessel 28 feet on its way to the Pacific. Your boat will settle on Miraflores Lake. Sail across Miraflores Lake to the Miraflores Locks. A light lunch is available during your scenic cruise of the lake and locks. The Miraflores Locks are part of the engineering marvel that makes up the Panama Canal. The locks will lower your tour boat the final 56 feet, matching the level of the Pacific Ocean. The lock gates at Miraflores are the tallest of the three due to the extreme tidal variation that takes place in the Pacific Ocean; the tidal variation on the Atlantic coast is by far less. Miraflores Locks are slightly over one mile long, from beginning to end. Depending on the size of each vessel, one can see anywhere from 1 to 3 vessels make the transit simultaneously. From the minute the vessels enters the locks, it takes approximately 10 minutes for the process to be completed. The water enters and leaving the locks by means of gravity only, as there are no pumps or other man made devices that assist in this process. Your cruise ends at La Playita in Panama City, where you board your air-conditioned ground transportation for the return trip to the ship.

Special Notes:

Child price:.

Tour timeline may vary to avoid overcrowding, etc.

Depart from ship for a transit of the Panama Canal to the Pacific Ocean

Re-board your transportation and meet your ship in colon.

No Agent? No Problem! Transit The Panama Canal

Every sailor wanting to go from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific (or vice versa) has two options. Take on Cape Horn or transit the Panama Canal (well, technically you can ship your boat but that’s not sailing).

Now, before we go diving into these two options its important to remind ourselves where we are as sailors.

We’ve been sailing for less than two years and only since arriving in Panama have we earned our first swallow. (Sailors earn a swallow tattoo for every 5,000 nautical miles traveled. The circumference of the earth is 21,639 nautical miles. That’s about 4 swallow.)

Ok, back to those two options…

Option One – Cape Horn

Rounding Cape Horn is to sailing what Mount Everest is to hiking. It’s not for newbies. The westerly winds are aptly named the “furious fifties”. It’s known for being a sailor’s graveyard because of the strong winds, currents, big waves and icebergs. We’re not ready to dodge icebergs yet.

Option Two – Panama Canal

The Canal was built across Panama to save ships from having to go all the way around Cape Horn. But, it’s more than a nautical shortcut from one ocean to another. It’s a historic man made engineering marvel. Ships travel up 85 feet above sea level through a series of massive, seven foot thick lock doors. Over 15,000 ships make the crossing between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans each year. But, only a small percentage of those are small, non-commercial vessels like ours. While transiting the canal is no Cape Horn, it’s still a big deal.

Making the decision to transit the canal was the easy part. Actually transiting the canal requires planning, preparation, extra crew and a fair amount of cash. The expenses to transit the canal add up quick, which is exactly why we wanted to forgo using an agent. Turns out having no agent is no problem. Money saved, experience gained and knowledge shared!

With our line handlers on board, we’re in full geeky excitement mode. Transiting the Panama Canal is a major milestone for any cruiser. But, we’re about to change oceans among massive cargo ships, good friends and family. It doesn’t get any sweeter than this!

sailing with friends to the Panama Canal

About Our Linehandlers – Meet The Crew

A big thanks to Jason’s Mom (Mary), Peter and John (AKA The RV Geeks) for making the trek out to join us. If you are an RV’er or even a DIY’er you probably already know about The RV Geeks. If not, you’ll want to check out their website and YouTube channel: The RV Geeks . As for Jason’s Mom, she owns a mineral makeup company based out of Dallas called Mineralogie. Having friends & family that can set their own schedules is a major bonus for last minute requests such as “Hey, we’re going through the canal in 10 days…wanna come?”

Help Please and Thank You

Before I dive into all the gritty details, I need to ask for your help. We spend an insane amount of time, filming, documenting and creating what you see. Maybe this post will save you $$$ if it gives you the confidence to transit the canal without an agent. If you like our videos and articles, you can help keep the creativity flowing. We’ve listed out all the little (like sharing) and big (join the crew) ways you can help here: gonewiththewynns.com/tip-jar Best part is, most won’t take more than a few seconds of time or cost you a penny. Thank you for being a part of the journey!

Transiting The Panama Canal, No Agent Needed

Tis the season.

The peak season for yachts transiting the canal is January to March. Around three to nine small boats a day go through. Our admeasurer’s advice: Avoid peak season if you can for more undivided attention and less stress. We decided to transit in November. We literally could have sailed in, got measured and transited the next day.

Anchoring vs Marina During Prep For The Transit

The most popular spot seems to be Shelter Bay Marina. Focusing on the transit yacht business, they are the only marina in the area and know the biz, so prices are not cheap. And, everything is a 30-45 minute taxi or bus ride away (at least until the bridge is complete). That said, we’ve heard great things about the owners and no negative feedback.

We prefer being at anchor and the canal has the designated “flats” anchorage that is free. We stayed there for measuring and the night before our transit. We felt totally safe and there was very little traffic at night. Other than the occasional pilot boat wake it’s a calm anchorage. After our canal measurements and prep was complete we sailed back to Linton Bay Anchorage .

If you have boat work to be done before the transit, Linton Bay Marina is only a day sail away, it has a lift and far cheaper slips.

Sailboat Insurance

Boaters insurance is interesting (AKA expensive and complicated). We buy coverage for the areas we plan to travel and read the fine print carefully. As we enter a new country or body of water, we must buy coverage for that area. Insurance prices vary like crazy from boat to boat, sailor to sailor, and of course providers. But, for what it’s worth, we paid an extra $316 to cover us through the canal and add coastal pacific cruising. We will have to re-up again when make the Pacific crossing to French Polynesia.

Want more info on sailboat insurance? Check out this video and post: gonewiththewynns.com/exhausting-journey-buying-cruising-sailboat

Why you might like to have an Agent

Maybe the extra $300-$600 for an agent to manage your transit is in your budget. Maybe you’re in a rush and feel you need the help. Plenty of people we talked to like their agent and enjoyed having them. But in the end, they didn’t do any less prep than we did.

Why You Don’t Need An Agent

The employees of the Panama Canal Authority all speak excellent English. They are professional, organized, helpful and kind. Everything you need to know is outlined clearly in the transit documentation. Not sure about something? Call the phone numbers listed to ask questions. We were blown away by how quickly they answered the phone and how politely they answered all questions. It was all extremely efficient.

Here is the exact document “ form 4352-1 ” with all the instructions and requirements that our admeasurer handed us: http://www.pancanal.com/common/maritime/forms/4352-ENG-201211.pdf

We read a ton of blog posts and cruising guides before making the decision on Panama Canal agents. We also spoke to fellow cruisers who’d completed the transit with and without an agent. It’s overwhelming how much fear mongering there is about the canal transit. In the end you must go with your gut on what’s best for you. From our experience, we can without a doubt say: Transiting the Panama Canal without and agent was easy and 100% “doable” .

What An Agent Does (That You Can Easily Do because it’s lined out in the document above)

It’s this short, easy to fill out document “ form 4405-1 “: http://www.pancanal.com/common/maritime/forms/4405.pdf
Once filled out the document gets sent to this email address: [email protected] (for the Atlantic side) or [email protected] (for the Pacific side).
A quick phone call to: Balboa Admeasurement Office at (507) 272‐4571, or the Cristobal Admeasurement Office at (507) 443‐2293.
It’s a quick trip to the only Citibank in either town and its listed in the document 4352-1 linked above (although on the Panama City side it says “Niko’s Plaza” but what they mean is next to Niko’s cafe. Ask a cab, or a bus, to take you to Niko’s Cafe Balboa, the Citibank is next door. The phone number for Citi-Balboa listed in the document was incorrect and Google Maps shows multiple listings for Citibank and they’re all the incorrect location…we visited 2 of the wrong listings before finding the actual Citibank in Panama City). There are several ATMs inside Niko’s to get cash (max withdraw was $500).
An easy phone call made after 6pm on the day you pay the bank: (507) 272‐4202
Rent 4 lines (125ft) and fenders (AKA – tires wrapped in plastic), to be delivered from Tito +507-6463-5009 (on the Atlantic side) or Roger +507- 6717-6745 (on the Pacific side). If you have lots of fenders you don’t need to rent tires. We only have six fenders and didn’t want to risk any damage to the boat, so we rented 8 tires from Tito. We were told it should be $119 for drop off and collection. Which wasn’t the case, we were expected to pay the guys who dropped them off and picked them up. It was an additional $20 each side. Also the La Playita marina tried to charge us a dinghy dock fee to drop off the lines. We said hell no, called Tito and told him to deal with them. Apparently we could have used our dinghy to meet Tito’s guys and saved the extra fees. So when Tito tells you your fees include pick up and drop off he means on land, he does NOT pay for the boat to bring lines to you at anchor.
We had family and friends join us but…here is a site for Volunteer Line Handlers (some are fellow sailors wanting to learn the ropes before they transit. It’s also a good site if you want to volunteer): www.panlinehandler.com Many sailors told us having friends or family members on board made the transit much more enjoyable…because there’s a lot of downtime during the canal transit. They were correct!

Extra Tips and Info

Questions we were asked by the Admeasurer

How fast is your vessel? (Anything over 5 knots will do).
Do you have a holding tank?
Do you have shade for the adviser (a bimini of some sort)?
Do you have a horn?
What type of engine?
Which way do your props rotate?
How much fuel do you carry?
What’s your Gallons Per Hour (i.e. can you make it through the canal without re-fueling)?
Do you have AIS (not a requirement in 2017)?
Do you have working navigation lights?
Working VHF?
Do you have the required fenders & lines? (we told him Tito was bringing the day of the transit, he didn’t need to see them)
Do you have 5 crew lined up to be on board (we told him they were flying in before the transit and didn’t request names or their information).

Our Ad Measurer Informed Us

We need to provide bottled water and food for our adviser on the day of transit. He does not stay overnight. He will be collected by a pilot boat from Gatun Lake, where we anchor overnight, and join us there again the next morning to complete the trip.
We asked about food for the adviser because we’ve read horror stories. His answer was basic food served in a clean environment, they’re not necessarily too picky about the food, more of the quality and cleanliness of the meal.
He warned us that our line handlers must be strong and familiar with tying bowline knots under pressure.
We asked about stopping at the Smithsonian island on Gatun Lake. He said it’s possible but it must be requested in advance and the Panama Canal Authority will charge an additional fee because we’d be “getting out of line”.
We asked if not having an agent made more work for him. He said “no”.
We asked about beer/alcoholic beverages in case the adviser asked for one. He said any canal authority worker on duty should not be drinking.
We forgot to ask about getting permission to fly a drone while inside the locks and this is something that has to be requested in advance.

Costs To Transit The Panama Canal

Because our Catamaran is 43ft, we fall under the 50ft category. While our total deposit amount paid to the bank was $1875, we did receive our buffer money back for a total of $984 to transit the canal.

Spoiler Alert!

We’re officially on the other side of the Panama Canal and we can honestly say…without a doubt…we made the right decision. The Panama Canal Prep was easy and even fun. We loved going through processes (especially because they run things so smoothly), documenting our experiences and sharing them with all of you. We successfully transited the Panama Canal without an agent. If we did it, you can too!

If you have any thoughts please share in the comments section below. If you have a burning questions please ask! Thanks to each and everyone of you for being a part of the adventure.

Sailing Report

Dates: 11/14 – 11/27/2017
Cell & WiFi: We had good cell phone reception here with Clario and MasMovil.

Sailing Specific Gear

iPad Pro http://amzn.to/2d9Oopf
iPad Mount at Helm: http://amzn.to/2fT84PG
iNavx (Chart app we were using to help find the dive site): http://bit.ly/2vGgC51
Garmin Bluecharts with Active Captain: http://bit.ly/2tgnRmA
Iridium Go and Predict Wind for weather and communications: bit.ly/PredictWindIridium
Quatix 5 Watches: https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/product/quatix-5-marine-watch

Cameras Used to Capture This Video

Full Review Of All Our Camera Gear: gonewiththewynns.com/camera-gear-review-2017

Sony A7ii: com/product/sony-a7ii
Rode Mic: https://bhpho.to/2hUNFA8
Sony 24 – 70mm f4 lens: com/product/sony-24-70
Sony RX (small pocket cam): gonewiththewynns.com/product/productsony-dsc-rx100m-iii-cyber-shot-digital-still-camera
Gorilla Tripod: http://amzn.to/2A0zwIa
Olloclip Lenses: http://amzn.to/2AkjQx9
DJI Mavic Pro: http://amzn.to/2vUFXa6
Drone Filters: http://bit.ly/sandmarc-mavic

Hello there! I honestly don’t know what to say, so I am going to tell you a bunch of random facts instead. I'm a fish eating vegetarian who hates spiders and loves snakes. I almost never took vacations growing up. I wanted to be Pippi Longstocking (still do). I misspell about every other word I write and still struggle with grammar. I love splurging on a good high tea (which is really hard to find these days). And whatever you do, don’t tell me I can’t do something, because then I'll HAVE to do it!

Comments (33)

DARRELL BELL

Wow this was in 2017, that’s around the time I got back online and started watching you like in 2018.

I thought 💭 I got you from the early days on when you bought your boat ⛵️… now I’m not so sure of that .

Always fun to follow y’all on your next adventure; ) can’t wait 😝 for the new sailboat ⛵️.

HI, thanks for all the awesome info and videos.. Will be setting of soon, along with my son. Just wanted to reach out and say hello…

We are going through the canal in about 3-4 weeks. We always knew we wanted to do this without an agent. Your video was AWESOME. THANK YOU for this information. We are several months behind you but are doing the coconut milk run. Perhaps we will see you out there? Our boat’s name is Chasing Stars. Best wishes.

Not sure what you mean by a ‘good high tea’ but I move around Europe (by air!) quite a lot, and get specialist teas shipped by Dragonfly Tea ( https://dragonflytea.com/ ) who ship around the world. My favourite is Moroccan Mint flavoured Green tea ( https://dragonflytea.com/collections/green-teas/products/moroccan-mint-organic-green-tea ). You don’t need drugs, ‘cos this stuff is very addictive!

Christine Zarek

Love your videos. Very fun and informative. A family member of mine was wondering why your videos are months behind? He is very inquisitive that way. Looking forward to more adventures!

Most travel videos (especially sailing channels) are behind real time. Our videos have always been and will most likely always be behind real time (we always list the dates in the sailing report). Tackling boat projects, planning, preparing, filming, editing, writing, sailing, working…it all takes a tremendous amount of time. The average video/post takes the two of us two full days to produce, some more. Not to mention finding decent wifi to upload the posts and videos in remote locations can prove to be impossible at times. So, all things considered, we’re usually amazed we’re able to hit the publish button on a weekly basis. 😉

Thanks for all the info!

We are soon crossing the Canal and then we will be on our way across to French Polynesia as well 🙂

Maybe we can be buddy boats, who knows 😀

Sweet! What is your boat name, I will keep an eye out for you on AIS.

Great video again you two. Looking forward to the next one of the actual transit. Have fun and stay safe. Mike

Haha! Looking for where to buy Mary’s makeup and apparently they sell it at my dermatalogist’s office. Will check it out next visit!!

Nice! Small world. It’s great stuff, I have been wearing her minerals for well over 10 years.

Anxious to see if your drone will be allowed to fly the canal with you.

Just a pack mule…

Love you guys! It was such a fun time. Wish I was there with you all now.

A pack mule worth all the tea in China and then some. 😉

Nancy Fernandez

Can’t wait to see the transit. Great seeing Mom and RV Geeks onboard. Buenos Noches! ?

Alexandre Frossard

Great video. Excelent information. During the past Volvo Ocean Race (2 years ago), one of the boats had a problem when crossing from NZ around cape Horn to Brazil. It then got into the fiords of Ushuaia and headed to Torres del Paine to get serviced. They decided to motor all the way to Brazil trough the fiords and came out in the Atlantic. It shoud be a nice option to cross from Atlantic to Pacific avoiding the Cape Horn. Sorry I don´t have more info about this route. Safe winds! Alex

Yep, Cape Horn can be nasty…or a lovely sail. We would love to take it on one day for sure!

Alan Solomon

I have never been to the canal but, I am looking forward to seeing you go through it.

Thank you for the detailed video. Great information for the future. You never know??

Great Video……….really looking forward to seeing you actually going through the canal. By the way Nikki, love the hats 🙂 Happy Sailing and thanks for sharing your adventures.

Randy Thorne

I have been anticipating this crossing for what seems to be a very long time, but I have to wait another week? UGH! 🙂 The glass half full, the glass half empty, Jason the definition of “pessimist” is an optimist with experience, you go brother!.

Ha ha, a pessimist with optimist experience…I am going to have to keep that one in my back pocket!

Venice Scherer

How exciting, can’t wait for your passing video! Nice to meet your Mom and friends!

Great vid, guys. Thanks for sharing the details. Wish you good luck for tomorrow and for the whole transit!

Great video! Can you please remind us what mobile service provider and plan you use for your iPhone?

Hi Scott I’m in Panama right now. Claro has a special going on. The SIM card for your iPhone is $15 dollars for 30 days. That gives you 1500 minutes of local talk time (no long distance but Skype works well)) and 4 GB of data. So far it’s worked just about everywhere in Panama. I think Jason and Nikki are using Claro as well. Mike

We have both sim cards for Claro and Mas Movil as we find one usually works better than the other in certain areas. Claro was usually the cheapest though.

Not to be critical or anything, but you really need to be more selective about the kind of scurvy dogs you let on that barge. ? Mom excluded, of course. ?

Ha, but you know how much we love a good scurvy dog! They Chambong with class. 😉

Wow I had no idea there that was that much prep involved! Very interesting read and well done for doing it without an agent 🙂

You’ve written a wonderful resource for sailors and boaters of all kinds for crossing the Panama Canal! We won’t need it since we’re RVers and only sail vicariously but it was a fun read. Looking forward to watching the video now.

JOHN SCHRETLEN

Excellent background for others who want to transit without an agent.

A minute of video showing you teaching John & Peter ‘the ropes’ on how to knot the lines might have been fun to watch.

Looking forward to the next video.

Knots 101…request noted. Perhaps with our next guests. 😉

Diane Sanderbeck

Wonderful report! I’m forwarding this to my boating friends so they’ll have all this information. I’m traveling at the moment, but I’ll drop something in the tip jar when I return home. Love y’all!

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MADABOUTPANAMA

Yacht Transit
Cruise Transit
Panama Sights
Download a PDF
Transit Blogs
Book Your Transit
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Admeasurer Inspection

Transit Procedure

Lockage Types
Linehandlers
ACP Canal Advisors
What Goes Wrong?
Sights and Scenery
Marinas and Anchorages
Getting Around
Panama Canal Overview
How It Works
Gatun Locks and Lake
Through the Canal
Pedro Miguel and Miraflores
Panama City End
ACP Ships and Boats
ACP Equipment
Sights Along the Canal
Embera Indian Village
Boat Trip on the Panama Canal
Fort San Lorenzo
Panama Canal Railway
Bridge of the Americas
ACP Administration Building
Amador Causeway
Old Balboa High School
Mi Pueblito
Casco Antiguo
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Did You Know?
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The procedures for making a transit through the Panama Canal are as follows:

Southbound transits

The ACP will give you a time to be ready at The Flats, commonly around 15:00
The telephone number of the scheduler is (+507) 272-4202 and they should be contacted after 1800 hours on the night before the transit
The Flats are now on the western side of the Bay (just outside the entrance to Shelter Bay Marina). The area is clearly marked by yellow buoys
When you get there, call Cristobal Signal Station to announce your arrival and that you are awaiting on your Canal Advisor. One yacht called from Colon Yacht Club and was sent outside the breakwater, so it is probably better just to head to The Flats and call from there
The Advisor joins sometime around the designated time (this can be hours later or might be brought forward)
Up lock through Gatun Locks (3 steps) early evening and moor at one of two buoys on the lake. The transit time from the third (last) Gatun Locks chamber to the mooring buoys is approximately 20 minutes
Remember to ask for a start time for the next morning, commonly 07:00. This time is not ‘set in stone’ and can be delayed or advanced by several hours. The Advisor typically travels from the Pacific side and can get caught up in traffic etc.
A new Advisor arrives to cross the lake and lock down through Pedro Miguel (1 step) and Miraflores (2 steps)
Hopefully completed by late afternoon – welcome to the Pacific!

Northbound transits

The Advisor joins early morning at one of the Panama City-side yacht clubs
Uplock up to Lake Gatun in the morning
If your yacht is fast enough you can complete the lock down in the evening
Otherwise you moor at a buoy or anchor at the northern end of Lake Gatun and complete the transit the next day, probably in the afternoon
Most Advisors will discuss what is going to happen and ask who will handle which lines.
Ensure each linehandler knows which rope they are responsible for, and that they can operate the cleats and/or winches. You do not want the Captain to be demonstrating how a winch works at the same time as navigating in the narrow lock chamber!
The Advisor will not be sure of the method of transit until he contacts each of the three Lockmasters prior to the vessel entering the first lock chamber. What happens in Gatun Lock may not necessarily be repeated in Pedro Miguel/Miraflores and vice-versa.
Once you arrive at the locks you will be busy for around two hours, so plan to provide meals before or after things get going.
You should standby on VHF channel 12 while in Canal waters. The Advisor might ask you to change to channel 13 so you can listen to big ship pilots.

You will probably go through all the locks with a big ship in the same chamber. The order will be set by the Lockmaster but is generally as follows:

Usually the larger vessel will enter first for the uplock.

Things to be aware of:

Possible violent turbulence as the water starts to fill each chamber. 26 million gallons will flood in from underneath, raising you up 28 feet either in 8 or 15 minutes depending on the Lockmaster
Prop wash when the ship moves forward into the next chamber. The Canal Advisor might pressure you to let go quickly, but there is no rush as the big ship will take a while to move anyway
The linehandlers need to keep taking up the slack in the lines as it appears, but in general they should keep the lines secure most of the time, especially when the lock first starts to fill
Aim to keep your yacht or the raft in the centre of the lock and straight
Each linehandler should look at the whole situation rather than focus solely on their one line. If your yacht is getting closer to the lock wall, perhaps it is time to stop pulling!

Locking Down

The larger vessel will enter behind you.

While there is no turbulence in the water from the lock filling, there are some more forces in play to make life interesting:

A piston effect of the large vessel pushing water in front of it
Currents of around 3-4 knots caused by fresh water rushing out over the top of salt water
Commonly winds from the stern if heading south
The linehandlers need to keep easing the lines as the water level drops, but in general they should keep the lines secure most of the time
Aim to keep your yacht or the raft in the centre of the lock
Each linehandler should look at the whole situation rather than focus solely on their one line
Cleats that usually handle horizontal forces now experience vertical forces, so the linehandler needs to ensure that the lines are paying out evenly
This is where your horn or whistle might be used, to let the shoremen know to throw the lines off when you are at the bottom of a lock and they can’t see you

On Lake Gatun and through Culebra Cut

The Canal Advisor will provide instructions but some considerations are:

Although the Advisor will probably ask you to go as fast as you can, this is always with the proviso that you know your yacht can maintain that speed easily
You will generally stay close to the marker buoys at the edge of the Canal
The Advisor will tell you when you can cut across the Canal, often in an attempt to take ‘short-cuts’ to reduce the transit time
The Advisor will regularly check-in to report your progress, and receive instructions as to the expected lockage time

Sailing is restricted but the Advisor might let you set a headsail

On to Lockage Types or back to Transit the Canal

Download a PDF containing all of the information on this website and more, for a yacht transit or a cruise ship transit.

Please let us know any comments or suggestions for further content at [email protected]

We would especially like to collect more information from those people who have experienced Canal transits. What you would like to have known before you went, or what you would like us to find out for next time.

Why the Panama Canal Didn’t Lose Money When Ship Crossings Fell

A water shortage forced officials to reduce traffic, but higher fees increased revenue.

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The Panama Canal is seen from the perspective of a container ship that is about to enter it.

By Peter Eavis

Low water levels have forced officials to slash the number of ships that are allowed through the Panama Canal, disrupting global supply chains and pushing up transportation costs.

But, remarkably, the big drop in ship traffic has not — at least so far — led to a financial crunch for the canal, which passes on much of its toll revenue to Panama’s government.

That’s because the canal authority introduced hefty increases in tolls before the water crisis started. In addition, shipping companies have been willing to pay large sums in special auctions to secure one of the reduced number of crossings.

In the 12 months through September, the canal’s revenue rose 15 percent, to nearly $5 billion, even though the tonnage shipped through the canal fell 1.5 percent.

The Panama Canal Authority declined to say how much money it earned from auctions. At a maritime conference last week in Stamford, Conn., Ilya Espino de Marotta, the canal’s deputy administrator, said the auction fees, which reached as much as $4 million per passage last year, “helped a little bit.”

But even now, during a quieter season for global shipping, auction fees can double the cost of using the canal. This month, Avance Gas, which ships liquefied petroleum gas, paid a $401,000 auction fee and $400,000 for the regular toll, said Oystein Kalleklev, the company’s chief executive. Auction fees are ultimately borne by the company whose goods are being shipped.

The canal’s financial stability in the face of a dire water shortage shows how the people who manage crucial links in global supply chains are adapting as climate change disrupts operations. It also helps that there are no viable alternatives in Latin America to the canal, an engineering marvel that opened in 1914 and handles an estimated 5 percent of seaborne trade.

If delays continue and the cost keeps rising, however, shipping companies may find ways to avoid the canal. Last year, as the canal became backed up, ships that wanted to travel from Asia to the East Coast of the United States began going through the Suez Canal, a far longer voyage that uses much more fuel.

Many vessels are still using a western route from Asia even after the Houthi attacks in the Red Sea forced shipping companies to avoid the Suez Canal and go around Africa. Mr. Kalleklev said that, after his vessels had delivered their cargo and were empty, they now typically returned to the United States via the Cape of Good Hope.

Though Panama is one of the world’s wettest countries, a sharp drop in rainfall last year deprived the canal of the water it needs for locks that raise and lower vessels into and out of the 40-mile passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Climate experts say such water shortages may become more common.

The weather pattern known as El Niño initially causes hotter and drier conditions in Panama, and scientists say climate change may be prolonging dry spells. Last year, there was 1.85 meters (six feet) of rainfall in the Panama Canal’s watershed, well below the historical annual average of 2.6 meters, according to the canal authority. Rainfall in the watershed was below average in six of the last 10 years, including years that were the second, third, sixth and seventh driest since 1950, the authority added.

To conserve water, the authority gradually reduced passages from a normal range of 36 to 38 vessels a day to 22 by December . But higher-than-expected rainfall and the canal’s water conservation measures enabled it to since raise crossings to 27 a day.

Though the number of passages is still below normal, the canal is in decent financial shape, analysts said.

Verónica Améndola, an analyst for S&P Global Ratings, expects that the canal’s revenue in the 12 months through next September will be roughly the same as a year earlier, primarily because of the toll increases. S&P Global estimates that the cost of shipping through the canal will rise to $10 a ton from $6 a ton.

This is good news for Panama’s government, which relies heavily on payments from the canal and is facing skepticism about its deficit from investors in the international bond market. The canal authority expects to pay the government $2.47 billion this year, down modestly from the record $2.54 billion that it paid last year.

Canal tolls and dividends were 24 percent of government revenue in 2023, said Todd Martinez, a co-head for the Americas at Fitch Ratings who analyzes Panama’s government finances.

“The good news is that the drought doesn’t have a terrible near-term impact on Panama’s public finances, because the canal has a lot of pricing power,” Mr. Martinez said. “But the bigger problem is the government can no longer keep relying on the canal to solve all of its other fiscal problems.”

Faced with the prospect of permanently lower rainfall, the canal authority plans to create a big new reservoir that would supply enough extra water to handle an additional 12 to 15 passages a day. Lawmakers still need to approve the project, which the authority estimates will take four to six years to complete. Panama has elections in May, but Ms. Marotta, the deputy administrator, said last week that all the presidential candidates had told the authority that they supported the reservoir.

“There’s a great understanding in Panama that life without the canal would be very difficult to deal with,” said Sebastian Briozzo, an analyst for S&P Global Ratings.

Peter Eavis reports on business, financial markets, the economy and companies across different sectors. More about Peter Eavis

Panama Canal Adds Transit Slots as Restrictions in Crucial Corridor Begin to Ease

A SHIP LOADED WITH ORANGE CONTAINERS MAKES WAY UNDER A BRIDGE OVER A MUDDY BROWN WATERWAY

Photo: iStock.com/Federico Barbieri

The Panama Canal is adding transit slots as restrictions in the corridor begin to ease.

According to the Panama Canal Authority (ACP), a pair of slots are up for auction for transit dates starting on March 18, with an additional slot for dates beginning on March 25.

The ACP could add more slots if rainfall raises levels at the lakes servicing the Panama Canal. This is after historically low water levels brought on by a lack of rainfall reduced daily traffic by almost 40 percent in late 2023 and early 2024. Over that period, many ships have been forced to take longer, more costly routes, all while the ongoing crisis in the Red Sea has complicated a crucial alternative to the Panama Canal.

Even so, with the ACP adding transit slots on top of better-than expected rains in late 2023 , conditions appear to be improving, at least for now, in the critical shipping lane.

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IMAGES

The Panama Canal
Panama Canal Transit Cruise Port
Crossing canals on-board of a yacht: the Panama Canal
Picture This: The Largest Cruise Ship Ever to Transit the Panama Canal
Complete Transit of Panama Canal, Tour
Panama Canal Transit on a Mega Yacht

COMMENTS

Through the Panama Canal in your yacht: everything you need to know
It is a surreal situation to find yourself floating in a small yacht alongside a giant ship in a box of water 25m above sea level. Entering the canal was thrilling, stressful, and awkward ...
Through the Panama Canal in a yacht
Fees for smaller vessels transiting the canal were raised in January 2020, meaning that post-pandemic costs for yachts which have delayed their entry to the South Pacific can be double those who ...
Noonsite.com
Update on PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT SITUATION (EL NIÑO PHENOMENON) from Associated Yacht Services: Effective July 30th 2023, due to low water levels at Gatun Lake resulting from the ongoing El Niño phenomenon, the Canal Authority is only transiting an average of 32 vessels per day until Sept 2024.
Tips for Transiting the Panama Canal
A Pacific-bound catamaran's Panama Canal voyage nears its end as it motors through the Miraflores Locks. hanohikirf / Alamy Stock Photo I scrambled out of the dinghy onto Minh's transom steps as a last-minute addition to the crew, the required fourth line handler needed for a transit of the Panama Canal.The French-flagged 41-foot Fountaine Pajot catamaran was weighing anchor in the Flats ...
Transit the Canal by Yacht
There are lots of Sights and Scenery as you pass through the Canal. Some are described in this website, but there are a lot more in the Cruise version of the document. The ACP website has a page with the forms you will need: ACP 4352 - Procedures for Securing a Handline Transit of the Panama Canal. ACP 4405 - Necessary Information to Create ...
The Superyacht Captain's Guide to Transiting the Panama Canal
Panama, hidden gem for Superyachts. "The Panama Canal is geographically well positioned, enabling yachts to reposition between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans in about 12 hours, but it is much more than merely a logistical pathway.". Joe Walden, CEO, Norton Lilly International (Panama) Much more than just a transit point between two great ...
Through the Panama Canal in your yacht: everything you need to know
How to transit the Panama Canal in your yacht - preparation, costs, top tips and more from Behan Gifford for a smooth crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean Cape Horn sailors and ditch diggers sacrificed all to make the path between the Atlantic and Pacific easier for the rest of us. It is a surreal situation to find yourself ...
PDF 1. Guidelines for Transiting Handlines up to 125 feet
The following are guidelines for yacht and other handlines interested in transiting the Panama Canal: 1. Guidelines for Transiting Handlines up to 125 feet. a. Before Arrival: All information required for transiting the Panama Canal must be submitted utilizing the Maritime Service Portal, at least 96 hours prior to arrival at Panama Canal waters.
How to Transit the Panama Canal with a Sailboat, Part 1
Do you dream of transiting the Panama Canal one day with your own sailboat? Wonder what's involved and what it costs? Then this video is for you! In Part 1, ...
9 Insider Tips for Sailing Through the Panama Canal
Budget Beyond the Fees. Crossing the Panama Canal isn't cheap, this is known. The fees for your boat are pretty basic - as of this writing, it costs $1,600 USD for vessels under 65 feet. This changes every few years, so always check for the latest rates. But the tolls are only the start of it.
The Panama Canal
www.halcyonyachts.comDuring the yacht delivery of a Cheoy Lee 63 from the UK to San Diego, we transited the Panama Canal. The Panama Canal is 43 Nautical Mil...
Panamá Yacht Adventures
PANAMA CANAL TRANSIT TOUR. Partial transit through the Panama Canal begins with entry into the Miraflores Locks, where our ship starts an ascent of 18 meters in two stages, leaving behind the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Next, we enter the Miraflores Lake, a small oasis of fresh water that separates the two locks on the Pacific side of the Canal.
A Sailor's Transit: The Panama Canal
The lock chambers—steps—are 33.53 meters wide by 304.8 meters long. The maximum dimensions of ships that can transit the Canal are: 32.3 meters in beam; draft -12 meters in tropical fresh water; and 294.1 meters long (depending on the type of ship). The water used to raise and lower vessels in each set of locks comes from Gatun Lake by ...
Sailing the Panama Canal
Planning to Sail the Panama Canal on Your Boat Shelter Bay Marina. Shelter Bay Marina is definitely the hub of yachties doing the canal transit. It's a convenient place to get work done, pick up crew, and make your plans. ... There is a really interesting article titled Shipwrecked on a Panama Canal Transit, written by Carolyn Lambert. As ...
Pay the Fees
The costs (all US$) to transit the Panama Canal in a yacht less than 65 feet will typically be: $1760 as of Jan 1, 2023 (Refer below) $75 TVI (Transit Vessel Inspection) $165 Security Charge. $1060 Buffer (if no agent - returned when all goes well) Around $100 for Lines and Fenders. Around $40 transport costs for volunteer linehandlers.
Panama Canal Transits and Beyond
Transiting the Panama Canal, what to see in Panama, and much more… The original aim of this website was to explain how to Transit the Panama Canal by Yacht.. The project quickly expanded to include what you will see when you Transit the Panama Canal by Cruise Ship, and some of the shore excursions you can make during a port call in Panama. Thing to see and do in Panama can be found in the ...
Transit the Panama Canal on Al Capone's Yacht
The Isla Morada boat, which belonged to U.S. mafioso Al Capone, now ferries tourists across the Panama Canal, which it has transited more than any other vessel. (Star Phoenix) The 101-year-old luxury yacht Isla Morada has been upgraded with new navigation equipment and improved safety features. And the barrels of rum have been moved out of the ...
Panama Canal Transit
Yacht Registration with the Panama Canal Authority (ACP) - Initial Transit Requirements for the ACP - Booking of your Panama Canal Transit - Financial Arrangements for Tolls & Fees with ACP - Yacht Inspection & Measurement - Coordination Assistance & Monitoring of your Panama Canal Transit
Panama Canal by boat
The direction of transit depends on where their boat is and the direction of ship traffic that day. If you journey through the Panama Canal on a cruise ship, the trip may be after dark, as ship traffic runs Pacific to Atlantic in daylight hours, Atlantic to Pacific evenings and overnights. A full transit between oceans takes 8 to 12 hours.
Excursions
Travel by ship's tender to the Gatun Yacht Club, where you will board an air-conditioned transportation for the narrated drive through the isthmus to the small village of Gamboa. Located on the banks of the Chagres River and the Panama Canal, Gamboa lies in the heart of Panama's 55,000-acre Soberania National Park.
No Agent? No Problem! Transit The Panama Canal
Take on Cape Horn or transit the Panama Canal. Making the decision to transit the canal was easy. But the expenses to transit the canal add up quick, which is exactly why we wanted to forgo using an agent. ... Focusing on the transit yacht business, they are the only marina in the area and know the biz, so prices are not cheap. And, everything ...
Panama Canal Tours
The Real Panama Canal Full Transit Tour Panama Canal Full Transit Tour. Please take into consideration that to take the Panama Canal Full Transit Tour, you will need to spend the night before in Panama City. As this tour is only available departing from the City on the Pacific Coast. We will be departing at varying times between 6:00am and 8:00am.
Transit Procedure
The procedures for making a transit through the Panama Canal are as follows: Southbound transits. The ACP will give you a time to be ready at The Flats, commonly around 15:00 ... call Cristobal Signal Station to announce your arrival and that you are awaiting on your Canal Advisor. One yacht called from Colon Yacht Club and was sent outside the ...
Why the Panama Canal Didn't Lose Money When Ship Crossings Fell
Last year, there was 1.85 meters (six feet) of rainfall in the Panama Canal's watershed, well below the historical annual average of 2.6 meters, according to the canal authority. Rainfall in the ...
Panama Canal Daily Slots
The Panama Canal is adding transit slots as restrictions in the corridor begin to ease. According to the Panama Canal Authority (ACP), a pair of slots are up for auction for transit dates starting on March 18, with an additional slot for dates beginning on March 25. The ACP could add more slots if ...