how to replace standing rigging on a sailboat

Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Pip Hare explains when to check and replace your standing rigging

• October 1, 2020

To prepare my IMOCA 60 Medallia for the Vendée Globe race, I have completed a full change of all the standing rigging

If the mast is stepped, the only way to thoroughly inspect rig fittings at the masthead is to go up there... Photo: James Mitchell

This was a ‘no brainer’ decision as my rigging has been around the world once already and I would never take it into the Southern Ocean for a second time.

In some ways it is easier to estimate the life of synthetic rigging, as it comes with a recommended mileage or stated lifespan if it can be UV damaged. For those with stainless steel rigging the decision on when to replace can be a harder one.

The main difficulties boat owners face when assessing the condition of the rig is the inability to see the first signs of wear, partly due to the majority of our rigging being out of sight in the sky, and partly due to the nature of metal fatigue itself.

Professional rig checks often lead to last-minute repairs for transatlantic ARC sailors. Photo: James Mitchell

The fact is that metal fatigue is inevitable and cannot be avoided. The only thing that will vary is the time a component takes to fail. So how can we make a good assessment of when rigging should be replaced?

There are a number of factors that will affect the lifespan of your standing rigging, most notably the initial quality of the rigging used and the type and frequency of sailing that you do.

Rigging quality

The quality of both wire and rod rigging is important because in both the crack initiation and growth phases of the fatigue process can be accelerated by metal impurities or unseen manufacturing defects in the component itself. Using high quality wire rigging from a well known supplier is a bigger initial outlay but the grade of metal used and manufacturing process should prolong the life of your rigging.

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When buying a secondhand boat, find out when the rigging was last replaced and try to get a copy of the invoice detailing who the supplier was – if you’re not sure, ask a rigger to take a look at it.

How you sail

In crude terms, every time your boat is used it is advancing the process of metal fatigue through the application of cyclical loads, so a boat that is raced regularly and hard will be approaching the point at which rigging failure could occur faster than a boat which is cruised intermittently.

This doesn’t mean that lightly used boats will never have to consider changing their rigging; even a dormant boat will be experiencing load cycles in some form when the mast is up. Just the action of the wind on a mast is enough to load up the rigging and any stays left loose will move with wind and wave action.

It’s not unusual for rigging wires to fracture around the swage collar

To minimise the stress caused by these load cycles while sailing it’s important to tune your rig regularly so the rigging is always at optimum tension. This will help ensure that changes in load are less extreme.

If you are not confident to set up your own rig tensions then ask your rigger to help, and later be sure to check your rig throughout the season.

Regular rigging checks

There are a couple of ways to test for early signs of fatigue not picked up by the naked eye; they include dye and NDT (non-destructive testing).

Water can enter swage terminals leading to crevis corrosion. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Both these surveys need to be carried out with the rig down and it may be worth balancing the overall cost of carrying out the test against the additional cost of re-rigging the boat, especially bearing in mind that if any faults or impurities are discovered your insurance may then require you to change the rigging anyway.

Regular visual checks should pick up the first signs of crack growth. Look for rust on T-terminals and at swage ends, check for powdery corrosion where T-terminals insert into the mast and any signs of cracking in the same area.

Run your fingers up and down the last metre of wire above or below the swage, feeling for deformities; if the wire is not uniform the chances are that one of the individual wires has broken, even if you can’t see it, and the stay and its partner should be replaced immediately.

Visual checks for rust and powdery corrosion are your first line of defence. Photo: Rupert Holmes

Checking the head of T-terminals is a harder job as they are inside the mast itself. This will need to be done with the mast removed so a full ‘mast down’ survey carried out by a professional rigger should be scheduled at least every three years.

Picking up early signs of corrosion or replacing select components after a thorough inspection is a worthwhile exercise because it may extend the lifespan of your standing rigging.

Inevitably your insurance policy will play a big part in your decision making about whether to replace your rigging. There has been a general assumption within the sailing community that insurance companies require rigging to be replaced after ten years, but I’ve found this is not actually the case; it’s far less prescriptive than that.

A small crack has developed in this stemhead fitting just above the forestay clevis pin

The IPID (Insurance Product Information Document) with your policy should give you a clear indication of what is covered in the event of a dismasting and may also provide some food for thought on when you should replace.

Insurance companies do not stipulate a timeframe at which your standing rigging should be replaced, but they do stipulate that all parts of the boat should be regularly and appropriately checked and maintained.

In the event of a dismasting claim, the insurance company would expect to see evidence of rigging maintenance and checks carried out at appropriate intervals by a qualified person; DIY inspections will not be accepted.

It is also worth taking note that in most insurance policies a depreciation element will be applied. This normally constitutes a deduction of one third of the new value of a rig and would start to come into play when a rig approaches 10-12 years old.

Emotional cost

There’s a consequential impact of a dismasting which cannot be covered by an insurance claim, and that is the human and emotional cost. In my own sailing career I’ve had two failures of standing rigging components which I spotted while sailing and was able to jury rig for a safe return to port. I’ve also experienced a dismasting, and I can vouch that it’s not a pleasant experience.

As a regular racer I take the health of my rig very seriously, perform checks before every major race and take my rig down annually for a thorough inspection. But this is the schedule that is right for me and the miles I sail, and would be considered overkill for the average sailor. Only you can give a proper evaluation of how often and how hard your boat is used, but that makes you ultimately responsible for setting the maintenance and replacement schedule.

Metal fatigue

Wires can break, unseen, within swaged terminals

Crack initiation starts when the metal first gets put to work and is caused by the cyclical loading of metal components. In the case of standing rigging on a sailing boat, this is the loading and unloading of shrouds and stays. Think about the windward shrouds loading up, while the leeward side relaxes: this cyclical loading causes cell structures to develop within the metal, these cells gradually harden and then develop microscopic cracks.

The crack growth stage follows next and these microscopic cracks will develop into larger ones, which may eventually be visible to the naked eye on the surface of the metal component. The speed of the crack growth phase will alter depending on how often and how hard your rigging is put under load.

Ultimate failure is caused when a crack exceeds a size that results in the component no longer supporting load. Failure will be sudden.

First published in the September 2020 issue of Yachting World.

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Replacing Your Standing Rigging

Published by rigworks on november 27, 2018.

Question – When should I replace my standing rigging?

From the Rigger – According to industry standards, the anticipated lifespan for stainless steel rigging is 10-12 years for wire and 15-20 years for rod. Of course, a number of factors affect a rig’s lifespan including load, sailing conditions, mileage sailed, age, fatigue from cyclic loading, environmental influences such as salinity and contamination, and frequency of care and maintenance. Many people believe that only heavily used rigging needs to be replaced, but the continuous flexing of loose wire that is not under load can take a serious toll as well. The flogging of a loose shroud can actually be harder on wire than steady pressure.

Unfortunately, there are not always visual clues that your rigging has passed its life expectancy. Things to look for include corrosion, pitting, cracks, and broken strands or “meat hooks” on the wire. Rust and discoloration can indicate the location of a crack or crystallization of the metal. Check your spreaders, chainplates and turnbuckles for cracking, fatigue, missing cotter pins/rings, etc. Check the deck around the chainplates and mast for cracking and delamination. If in doubt, get a professional opinion.

The cost to replace standing rigging obviously varies from boat to boat. Give us a call, and we can give you a rough quote. With proper measurements (wire diameter, pin sizes, wire lengths), we can give you a very accurate price for the standing rigging itself, but there are often unforeseen complications during the job (bad spreaders, corroded mast bases, hardware that is stripped on the mast, frozen pins, chainplates that are failing, etc.). A rig inspection beforehand can minimize surprises.  And word of warning… jobs often get expensive because the customer decides, once the mast is down, to add furlers, masthead units, new sheets and halyards, etc. These additions add up quickly and affect the cost of parts, labor, special order shipping, taxes, etc. We are happy to accommodate your requests, but the cost of your job will escalate quickly.

Although we work closely with the boatyard during the job, you will need to negotiate yard fees (crane, mast lay days, etc.) directly with the yard of your choice. They are not included in our estimate. Driscoll Boat Works and Shelter Island Boat Yard are both within walking distance of Rigworks. Assuming it fits in our racks and we have room, we may be able to avoid mast lay day charges by storing your mast here at Rigworks.

As a quick side note… people often ask if they should switch from rod to wire rigging or vice versa during the re-rig (usually from rod to wire as rod is much more expensive per foot). Be aware that this is not a simple conversion and can be quite expensive. The terminations for wire vs. rod can be quite different and require a lot of customization.

Want to prolong the lifespan of your rigging? Here are a few suggestions…

Maintain your standing rigging! Like your car, your sailboat needs TLC. Perform routine cleaning/polishing to remove corrosives, identify chafe points and other damage, and properly tune your standing rigging (shrouds, forestay, backstay). Stainless does not like to be deprived of oxygen, so keep tape off your rigging to avoid anaerobic corrosion. For more information on rig maintenance, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/maintaining-your-standing-rigging/ and download our rig-care pamphlet at https://rigworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Standing-Rigging-Care.pdf .

Get regular rig inspections! This is a very inexpensive investment (by yachting standards ) to ensure that your rig is in sound condition. Why not schedule annual service as you would with a car? Let us go over your rig from top to bottom and end to end to identify trouble before it gets worse. For more information on rig inspections, visit our prior ‘Ask the Rigger’ article at https://rigworks.com/the-scoop-on-rig-inspections/ . Our riggers can also tune your rig, either at the dock or under sail. Not only will your rig last longer when properly tuned, your boat will sail better, and who doesn’t love that!

Consider pulling your rig every 5-6 years to inspect the mast base, chainplates, turnbuckles, wire, etc. This is considerably less expensive than a full re-rig and, again, may identify issues before they become catastrophic.

And PLEASE do not buy a used boat without a professional rig inspection! We have had many customers who have found a ‘great deal’ on a used boat only to discover that they need to spend a small fortune on new rigging. A boat with bad rigging is at best a pain in the #@$ and at worst a lethal weapon. There is nothing more expensive than a “cheap” boat!

A customer came into our shop the other day to discuss his 33-year old rigging. He said it looked fine. He asked “Isn’t the industry standard just a ploy by manufacturers to sell more wire”. Since we also stand to gain when you replace your rigging, let us say that many insurance companies will not insure sailboats with aged rigging. This should be a warning. If they are not willing to take the financial risk, are you willing to risk yourself and your crew?

Finally, should you decide to sail with that old rigging, consider checking out the ‘Ask the Rigger’ article titled “Rigs Fail… Are You Ready?” at https://rigworks.com/rigs-fail-ready/ .

Safe Sailing!

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Standing Rigging on a Sailboat: Everything You Need to Know

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 14, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer standing rigging on a sailboat:

Standing rigging on a sailboat refers to fixed lines and cables that support the mast and help control its movement. It includes components like shrouds, stays, and forestays. These essential elements ensure stability and proper sail trim while underway.

Understanding the Importance of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Sailboats are marvels of engineering and ingenuity, capable of harnessing the power of the wind to transport us across vast oceans and explore far-flung destinations. As sailors, we often focus on the majestic sails, sleek hull designs, and cutting-edge navigation technology that make these vessels so awe-inspiring. However, there is one crucial component that sometimes goes unnoticed but plays a vital role in keeping our sailboats safe and seaworthy – the standing rigging.

The standing rigging refers to the network of wires and cables that support the mast and allow it to bear the tremendous loads exerted by the sails. It acts as the backbone of a sailboat’s rig , providing stability, strength, and balance. Understanding its importance is crucial for anyone who sets foot on a vessel with dreams of cruising or competing.

Firstly, let’s examine why standing rigging is essential for sailboat safety. Imagine being out at sea when suddenly your mast collapses due to faulty rigging . This nightmare scenario can easily be avoided by regularly inspecting your boat’s standing rigging for signs of wear or fatigue. Frayed wires or corroded fittings could weaken the entire structure, making it susceptible to failure under heavy winds or rough seas . By ensuring your standing rigging is in good shape through routine maintenance and inspections by professionals, you can significantly reduce this risk and ensure your own safety onboard.

Moreover, properly tensioned standing rigging is vital for maintaining optimum sailing performance. The tension in each wire within the standing rig allows for efficient transfer of power from sails to keel through mast compression. If your standing rigging is too loose or too tight, it can negatively impact your sail trim and overall boat handling capabilities. A well-tuned rig will provide better control over sail shape adjustments necessary for different wind conditions while maximizing speed potential – something every sailor strives for!

Beyond safety and performance, understanding the importance of standing rigging requires recognizing its impact on the overall balance of your sailboat. The rigging plays a crucial role in maintaining the boat’s equilibrium by counteracting the forces exerted by the sails. Without proper tension and alignment of the standing rig, a sailboat may become unbalanced, resulting in compromised stability. This imbalance can make steering more challenging, increase the risk of broaching, or even lead to capsizing in extreme cases. Therefore, paying close attention to your standing rigging ensures that your boat remains stable and enjoyable to sail.

Lastly, it is worth mentioning that investing in high-quality materials and professional rigging services will prove cost-effective in the long run . While it may be tempting to cut corners or delay necessary upgrades or maintenance, neglecting your standing rigging will only result in more significant expenses down the line. Inadequate rig tension can lead to excessive wear on other components such as sails or mast fittings, increasing their replacement frequency and cost.

In conclusion, understanding and valuing the importance of standing rigging on a sailboat is essential for sailors of all levels. It directly impacts safety at sea, enhances sailing performance, maintains balance and stability, ultimately contributing to an enjoyable experience on board. So next time you set foot on a sailboat or contemplate owning one yourself, don’t forget to give due attention to this often overlooked but vital aspect – your boat’s standing rigging!

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Inspect and Maintain Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Cracking the Code: A Step-by-Step Guide to Inspecting and Maintaining Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Introduction: Ahoy, fellow sailors! Whether you’re an experienced seafarer or a sailing enthusiast ready to cast off, understanding how to inspect and maintain your sailboat’s standing rigging is crucial for smooth voyages on the high seas. In this detailed guide, we will unravel the mysteries of standing rigging examination and upkeep, enabling you to confidently navigate through any sailing adventure. So hoist your mainsail, secure your halyards, and let’s dive into the world of rigging maintenance !

1. Understanding Standing Rigging: Before we embark on our inspection journey, let’s clarify what exactly constitutes standing rigging. Embracing technical jargon like professionals often do, this refers to those sturdy wire cables that provide support to the mast and keep everything in place as your vessel slices through the waves. These cables are under constant stress from wind pressure and oceanic forces; therefore, routine inspections are vital.

2. Assemble Your Inspection Arsenal: Essential tools at hand? Check! Embark upon your quest equipped with binoculars (to assess hard-to-reach areas), a multimeter (for electrical testing), tape measure (we love accuracy!), a notepad (to document findings), lubricant spray can (to combat rust), and some good ol’ elbow grease.

3. Visual Inspection Bonanza: Begin by examining every component of your standing rigging thoroughly. Start from bow to stern – nothing should elude your gaze! Look out for signs of fraying wires, corrosion spots – identified by those elusive green spots -, improperly tightened connections or turnbuckles hanging loose like unfortunate pirate hooks. Pay close attention when checking shrouds and stays around their terminal points.

4. Tension Testing Zen: Employing a multimeter capable of measuring tension is vital for this next step. Like tuning an instrument, each cable must be correctly tensioned to ensure optimal performance . Begin at the base of your mast, working your way up one stay or shroud after another, carefully noting the readings. Adjust tensions as needed, using the manufacturer’s guidelines as your North Star.

5. Get Into Detailing Mode: To maintain a seaworthy craft, meticulousness is key! Start by cleaning every inch of standing rigging with fresh water and mild soap to rid it of salt crystals and other corrosive agents that Mother Nature throws our way. Once dry, inspect terminals for any hidden corrosion potential. Remember to apply lubrication around all fittings where metal meets metal – preserving their longevity on this salty adventure.

6. Diving into DIY Replacements: Sometimes, despite our best efforts, some elements may need replacement eventually. Worn-out or damaged fittings demand immediate action! While there are professionals who can lend a helping hand, attempting minor repairs yourself allows you to save time and money in the long run. Just remember safety first – secure your vessel properly before venturing aloft!

7. Periodic Inspections are Pathway to Peace: As the seasons go by and maritime miles accumulate beneath your hull’s keel, remember that rigging inspections should become regular occurrences in your life as a sailor. Incorporating these tasks into your annual maintenance routine will keep you up-to-date on the health of your standing rigging and reduce unexpected surprises during those thrilling offshore adventures.

Conclusion: With this comprehensive guide in tow, inspecting and maintaining standing rigging on a sailboat will no longer bewilder even the most landlocked soul. Armed with knowledge and armed-still-with tools-of-the-trade in hand – embark upon every voyage knowing that smooth sailing is within reach! Remember comrades: vigilance coupled with clever maintenance ensures many marvelous voyages atop Neptune’s watery kingdom!

The Key Components of Standing Rigging on a Sailboat Explained

When it comes to sailing, understanding the key components of standing rigging is crucial. This system of cables and wires plays a vital role in keeping a sailboat’s mast upright and ensuring the safety of everyone on board. So, let’s dive into these essential elements to unravel their importance and how they work together seamlessly.

1. Mast: The mast, often referred to as the backbone of a sailboat, is a tall vertical structure that supports the sails. It provides stability and acts as an attachment point for various components of the standing rigging.

2. Shrouds: Shrouds are strong steel or synthetic cables that extend from the top of the mast down to its sides, creating lateral support. Usually arranged in pairs, they help prevent excessive side-to-side movement and maintain proper alignment while under sail or at anchor .

3. Forestay: Situated at the front of the mast, directly opposite to where you stand while steering, is the forestay. This forward-facing cable keeps the mast from tipping backward due to wind pressure against the sails when sailing upwind. It ensures that your sailboat remains balanced even in gusty conditions.

4. Backstay: The backstay is another essential component that counterbalances the force exerted by the forestay on your sailboat’s mast when sailing upwind or under heavy loads. Most commonly attached at or near the highest part of your boat ‘s stern (aft end), this cable prevents undue bending or breaking caused by fore-aft pressure.

5. Tangs and Turnbuckles: These small yet mighty components connect shrouds and stays to both the hull and mast with ease and allow for easy adjustment and fine-tuning of tensioning within your standing rigging system. Tangs are fittings attached directly to masts or other structural components using bolts or screws, while turnbuckles provide threaded connections allowing for precise adjustments.

6. Spreaders: Installed horizontally on either side of the mast, spreaders play a crucial role in maintaining the integrity and proper angle of shrouds. They prevent excessive bending or twisting forces by creating a wider stance for the shrouds, ensuring even stress distribution.

7. Standing Rigging Lifelines: These lines, typically made of stainless steel wires or synthetic materials like Dyneema, serve as an additional safety measure by helping to prevent crew members from falling overboard while working on deck. Strategically placed along the sides of the sailboat, they offer stability and support during maneuvering or rough seas.

Understanding these key components is vital not only for sailboat owners but also for anyone interested in sailing . Proper maintenance and routine inspections are essential to ensure optimal performance and mitigate any risks associated with deficiencies within your standing rigging system.

So next time you set sail or find yourself gazing out at a beautifully rigged sailboat, take a moment to appreciate the intricate balance and coordination that these key components provide. It’s truly a remarkable collaboration between technology, engineering, and Mother Nature herself – allowing us to glide through the waves with grace and elegance.

Common FAQs about Standing Rigging on a Sailboats Answered

Introduction: Standing rigging is an essential component of sailboats, playing a crucial role in supporting the mast and ensuring optimal performance on the water. However, many sailors are often perplexed by various aspects of standing rigging, leading to a multitude of frequently asked questions. In this comprehensive blog post, we aim to answer some of the most common FAQs about standing rigging on sailboats, providing detailed and professional insights while adding a touch of wit and cleverness.

1. What exactly is standing rigging? Ah, standing rigging – the unsung hero of every sailboat! Standing rigging refers to all the fixed elements that support the mast in an upright position. These elements typically comprise stainless steel wires called shrouds and stays along with associated fittings like turnbuckles and tangs. Think of it as the sturdy backbone that keeps your mast from taking an inconvenient swim!

2. When should I inspect my standing rigging? Regular inspections are crucial for maintaining a safe sailing experience. We recommend inspecting your standing rigging at least once a year or before embarking on any long voyage. Additionally, keep an eye out for any signs indicating potential problems such as excessive rust, wire deformation, or frayed cables. Remember: It’s better to be safe on land than sorry at sea !

3. How do I know when it’s time to replace my standing rigging? While rigorous inspections can highlight any potential issues, there are certain indicators that suggest your standing rigging might need replacement sooner than later:

a) Age: As a general rule of thumb, consider replacing your standing rigging after 10-15 years. b) Visible damage: If you spot visible signs of wear and tear like broken strands or corroded fittings, it’s time for new gear. c) Elongation: In some cases, constant strain can cause wire elongation over time – if this exceeds manufacturer recommendations or 5%, it’s replacement time. d) Performance decline: Have you noticed reduced boat performance or excessive mast movement? Outdated rigging may be the culprit.

4. Can I inspect and replace standing rigging myself? Inspecting your own standing rigging is indeed possible if you possess adequate knowledge and experience. However, replacing it yourself requires specific expertise, so unless you’re a seasoned sailor with professional background in rigging, we highly recommend entrusting this task to certified riggers who can ensure everything is done correctly. After all, your safety should never be compromised!

5. How much does standing rigging replacement cost? Ah, the golden question! While costs can vary depending on factors like the size of your boat, the material used for new rigging (stainless steel or synthetic fibers), and labor expenses – expect to invest anywhere from a few thousand to tens of thousands of dollars for a complete standing rigging replacement. Remember that proper maintenance upfront can help extend the lifespan of your rigging and save you some precious doubloons!

6. Can I switch from stainless steel to synthetic fibers for my standing rigging? Absolutely! Synthetic fiber alternatives like Dyneema® have gained popularity due to their lighter weight, high strength-to-weight ratio, and lower corrosion risk compared to stainless steel. These materials offer enhanced performance capabilities and are a valid consideration when upgrading or replacing your standing rigging system entirely.

7. What’s the typical lifespan of synthetic fiber standing rigging? While longevity depends on various factors such as usage patterns and environmental conditions, well-maintained synthetic fiber standing rigging systems generally last around 10-12 years before requiring replacement – comparable to their stainless steel counterparts.

Conclusion: Standing rigging on sailboats may seem mysterious at first glance, but by answering these common FAQs with informative yet witty explanations, we hope to shed light on this crucial sailing component while bringing a smile to our readers’ faces. Remember, understanding and properly maintaining your standing rigging will ensure safe and enjoyable voyages for years to come. So, stay rig-ready and sail on!

Upgrading Your Standing Rigging: What You Need to Know

In the world of sailing, upgrading your standing rigging is a vital decision that can greatly impact your vessel’s performance and overall safety. The standing rigging, which includes the various wires and cables that hold the mast upright, plays an essential role in ensuring stability and proper sail control. In this blog post, we will delve into everything you need to know about this crucial aspect of sailing.

Firstly, why should you consider upgrading your standing rigging? Over time, wear and tear can take a toll on this crucial component of your boat . Exposure to harsh weather conditions, continuous strain from strong winds or heavy sails, and even galvanic corrosion can all lead to the degradation of your rigging. As a responsible sailor, it is imperative to regularly assess the condition of your standing rigging and determine when an upgrade is necessary.

When it comes to upgrading your standing rigging, there are several key factors you need to consider. One essential aspect is choosing the right materials for your new rigging. Traditionally, stainless steel has been widely used due to its durability and strength. However, recent advancements in composite materials have opened up new possibilities for sailors. High-tech fibers like carbon or aramid offer impressive strength-to-weight ratios while being less susceptible to corrosion than steel.

It is important to consult with an experienced rigger or marine engineer who can guide you in selecting the most suitable material for your specific sailing activities and vessel type. They will take into account factors such as boat size, intended use (racing or cruising), budget constraints, and local climate conditions before recommending the best material for your standing rigging upgrade.

Another crucial consideration in upgrading your standing rigging is determining whether you want to switch from wire rope-based rigging to rod-based systems or composite products. Rods are known for their superior stiffness and excellent fatigue resistance but may require specialized equipment for assembly and maintenance. Composite systems typically combine carbon fiber or fiberglass with a resin matrix, offering versatility and customization options.

Furthermore, when planning to upgrade your standing rigging, it’s essential to conduct a thorough inspection of the mast and fittings. Any signs of wear and tear, cracks, or deformations in the mast or associated hardware should not be overlooked. Reinforcing these components may be necessary before installing new rigging to ensure optimal safety and performance .

During the installation process itself, meticulous attention to detail is crucial. Proper tensioning and alignment of the rigging are vital for achieving optimal sailing performance . Consulting with professionals in the field will ensure that you avoid common pitfalls such as over-tensioning or under-tensioning your rigging, which can potentially compromise its strength and longevity.

Upgrading your standing rigging not only ensures a safer sailing experience but also presents an opportunity to enhance your vessel’s performance capabilities. By optimizing sail control and reducing overall weight aloft, you can achieve faster speeds and improved maneuverability on the water.

In conclusion, upgrading your standing rigging is an investment that should never be taken lightly. It requires careful consideration of multiple factors such as materials, boat specifications, and local conditions. Seeking expert advice throughout this process will help you make informed decisions that align with your sailing goals while ensuring maximum safety and enjoyment on the open seas . So don’t hesitate – take charge of your vessel’s integrity today by embarking on an exhilarating upgrade journey!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Standing Rigging on a Sailboat

Title: Navigating the High Seas of Standing Rigging: Deconstructing Common Sailboat Troubles

Introduction: Setting sail on a beautiful day, wind in your hair, and salt in the air – there’s nothing quite like the freedom of sailing. But as any experienced sailor knows, with great freedom comes great responsibility; one must always be prepared to tackle common issues that can arise with standing rigging on a sailboat. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll be your navigational chart through the murky waters of troubleshooting these problems.

1. The Tale of Loose Wires: Picture this: you’re out at sea, enjoying the blissful embrace of nature when suddenly you notice an unsettling amount of slack in your boat’s rigging wires. As panic sets in, take a deep breath and remember that loose wires are not an uncommon predicament. Before jumping ship into despair, consider inspecting your turnbuckles for any signs of wear or corrosion. Often, a simple tightening or lubing can solve the issue and restore equilibrium to your rigging system.

2. Strange Groans from Your Mast: As the wind howls through your sails, does it feel like someone is playing an eerie tune on your mast? Fear not! These disconcerting noises can typically be traced back to halyards rubbing against sheaves or pulleys. Be diligent about inspecting these components and ensuring they are properly aligned and lubricated.

3. The Mystery of Shaky Connections: Imagine cruising along peacefully when you notice unsettling vibrations emanating from various connections within your standing rigging system – another nuisance faced by many sailors. Remember to check bolts and fittings for tightness and wear regularly; sometimes a mere tightening can spare you from enduring an inconvenient wobble during every voyage.

4. Elusive Corrosion Castaways: While corrosion may seem like a mythical creature lurking under layers of saltwater incantations, it sadly isn’t. The corrosive effects of the marine environment can take their toll on your rigging, leading to weakened and compromised wires. To avoid this encroaching villain, regularly inspect your rigging for signs of corrosion, paying extra attention to any dissimilar metals in contact with each other. When identified early, you can tackle this issue head-on through diligent cleaning and application of protective coatings.

5. That Perplexing Sag: No one wants a saggy rig! If you notice an unacceptable amount of slack or downward curve in your wire stays or shrouds when under load, it’s time to put on your problem-solving hat. Begin by ensuring that all turnbuckles are suitably tensioned and that the mast rake is properly adjusted. A little fine-tuning may be all it takes to regain the tautness required for smooth sailing .

6. Stay Seals Against Abrasion: Do you find your stay seals battling against wear and tear? It might be time to beef up their defenses! Insulate vulnerable areas with appropriately sized rubber tubing or durable tape like self-amalgamating tape. This extra layer of protection will help prevent damage from chafing lines or abrasive surfaces.

Conclusion: As sailboat enthusiasts know, standing rigging issues can arise unexpectedly and interrupt even the most idyllic voyages at sea. By keeping these troubleshooting considerations in mind while setting sail , you’ll have a handy compass to lead you through the challenges that come with maintaining a well-maintained rig. So next time the wind whispers trouble into your ears while adrift on your beautiful vessel, fear not – armed with knowledge and wit, you’ll conquer those common issues with ease and go back to enjoying the sublime freedom provided by sailing adventures!

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Standing Rigging Replacement

• By Ronnie Simpson
• Updated: April 24, 2018

Reaching out of the channel in a moderate breeze, Quiver leaned on her big, overlapping genoa and accelerated up to hull speed. Surrounded by a fleet of vessels of similar speed, we had managed a clean and conservative start to our first Friday night beer-can race on my new-to-me cruising yacht. The headsail was eased and furled slightly before we reached the final red channel marker. As I turned up, the mainsail was trimmed in and the now-smaller jib sheeted home. Quiver powered up, heeled over and took off upwind. The Doug Peterson-designed 34-footer was clearly in her element when going uphill, and I looked forward to working our way through the fleet on the long port-tack beat toward Oahu’s Diamond Head .

Mere seconds after going hard on the wind, there was a loud bang. And then the headstay went slack. Without enough time to contemplate whether the mast was going to stay upright, I quickly evaluated the situation and decided to turn up into the wind instead of bearing away to a run. Once in irons, I handed off the helm and ran two spinnaker halyards forward to help secure the mast. Amazingly, we were still able to furl the jib. Motorsailing back to the dock with just a mainsail up, I played every possible scenario through in my head, unable to diagnose exactly what had happened or what had broken.

Back at the dock, there was ample daylight left to pull the headstay and furler down to investigate — much more easily done with the presence of a few friends. At first, nothing appeared to be broken at the bottom or the top, making it that much more confusing as to what had failed. Once I pulled the furler drum apart, however, I quickly found the smoking gun. The toggle at the bottom of the headstay, which connects to another toggle and effectively lives inside of the furler, was extremely corroded and had failed catastrophically. Fortunately for me and the boat, which I had purchased just five days earlier, the failed toggle could not fit through the furler’s aluminum foil; that was all that kept the headstay from physically separating and the boat potentially dismasting.

The entire experience was a shocker, to say the least. I had sailed the boat on a sea trial with the previous owner as part of the purchase. In 20 knots of trade-wind breeze, we sailed into the channel all powered up, with a reef in the main and a partial jib, with not a care in the world. Back at the dock, I had a friend help crank me aloft to complete a rig inspection, something that was very common for me to do in my years of working as a professional yacht rigger and as crew and preparateur on high-end racing yachts in the San Francisco Bay area. When all looked satisfactory up the rig, I bought the boat for $10,000 cash and sailed her back to Waikiki that day. Five short days and a couple more daysails later, the one rigging component that was out of sight during my visual inspection nearly brought the entire rig crashing down on my first Friday race with the boat.

Following the old handyman’s adage of “measure twice, cut once,” my helpers, Mike and Kristen, and I all took great care to get the measurements right before placing our order for new rigging.

After a trip to the chandlery and an afternoon work session with a friend, I had the blown-apart toggle replaced with a shiny new one, making the boat, in theory at least, perfectly sailable. Without fully knowing how old the standing rigging was, however, I decided that now was the time to fully rerig Quiver . I had planned on doing this before I did any serious sailing with the boat, but after our early mishap, this expensive yet basic maintenance project took on a new urgency. While rerigging the boat, I would also inspect the chainplates and make sure that all was structurally sound with them. I had dismasted a boat before, and as much fun as my time fixing that boat had been, I sincerely didn’t need to dismast another.

First things first: I needed to measure the rig for new stays, so I grabbed my mast-climbing gear and got right to work (see “Going Up,” at the end of this article).

As I headed aloft, I took a minimum of tools and cranked myself up the mast, taking the butt end of a 100-foot tape measure with me. With a helper at the bottom, I held the zero mark on the tape measure tightly against the center of the clevis pin at the top of each shroud (depending on how your stays are attached to the mast, look for the center of the load-bearing point at the top).

Standing on deck with the spool end of the tape measure, my helper pulled the tape tight and measured to the center of the clevis pin at deck level. Once he called out a measurement to me, we would take our respective ends of the tape off of the shrouds and then measure again. Once we were confident that we had it measured as accurately as possible — down to one-twentieth of an inch — we recorded the measurement and moved on to the next. In some cases where there were slight differences between port and starboard (only a couple tenths or a half inch) we just averaged the two sides and took that as our measurement for the new shrouds.

Following the old handyman’s adage of “measure twice, cut once,” my helpers, Mike and Kristen, and I all took great care to get the measurements right before placing our rigging order.

Getting boat parts and work done in Hawaii can often be a challenge because there are fewer marine facilities and resources in the islands than there are on the mainland, and everything is an expensive and slow ship or plane ride away. As a result, a bit of resourcefulness is always of benefit when cruising or living in a remote place. In my case, the resourcefulness was measuring the rig myself and ordering all of the parts from an outfit that I knew could fill the order in a timely fashion, give me great service and get me better deals on parts than I could achieve locally. I called up my old friend Logan at Rigworks in San Diego. He was pumped to get the opportunity to help out and got right back to me with an invoice, all ­done up with some good-guy pricing. Everything was in stock, and they could have my shiny new rigging to me in a week. Perfect.

Comparing apples to apples, it’s interesting to note that the rigging for my Peterson 34 was right at about double what it was for my Cal 27 and Cal 29, owing to the nature in which boats get exponentially more expensive as they get larger.

With the rigging on the way, I needed to have two chainplates made locally. The smallest chainplates on the boat, for the forward lower shrouds, needed replacing as the starboard one had a crack in it. My quickest and most convenient option ended up being a general machine shop located in an industrial zone in an alley in Honolulu. Ed Dang Machine Works custom ordered 316 stainless-steel stock and, using the originals as patterns, built two custom chainplates and backing plates for a reasonable price. Built in the afternoon on a Friday, they came out a bit off and had to be remade. The machinist fully owned up to his mistake, apologized for the inconvenience and remade the chainplates the same day, for the original price, which was greatly appreciated because I was on a mission to get Quiver back on the water on time and on budget.

Installing the new chainplates, backing plates and cover plates was straight­forward and simple. I also made a point to pull a couple of other chainplates out for visual inspections. Like the headstay’s lower toggle failure that easily could have dismasted the boat, it’s usually the hidden part of a chainplate, where it passes through the deck, that poses the biggest potential risk. Corrosion can develop there because of a lack of oxygen, causing the metal to fail.

Once the new rigging arrived, it was merely a job of installing nine shrouds one by one and then tackling the hardest, the headstay, last.

Slacking off all four lower shrouds before going aloft, I cranked myself up to the first of the two sets of spreaders and locked off my block-and-tackle harness with a double slipknot. Carefully unpinning one shroud at a time, I tied a tag line through the marine eye fitting and slowly lowered each shroud down to my helper, who would then remove the old wire and tie on the new one. Pulling the new shroud into place and then untying it from the tag line, I could then pin each shroud to the mast.

Carefully unpinning one shroud at a time, I tied a tag line through the marine eye fitting and slowly lowered each shroud down to my helper, who would then remove the old wire and tie on the new one. Pulling the new shroud into place and then untying it from the tag line, I could then pin each shroud to the mast.

Installing the new shrouds with the rig up, in the slip, is a surprisingly easy job, especially when you have competent help and no major hiccups. With proper techniques and a thoroughly planned, safety-first approach, it is well within the scope of many cruising sailors to measure, remove, replace and potentially repair their own rigging.

A few weeks and a few thousand dollars after nearly dismasting, Quiver sailed out of the same channel, hung a left at the last red marker and turned hard on the wind again. The drama of headstay ­failure was over.

With the nine new shrouds in place, it was time to move on to the headstay, which would be by far the most difficult and laborious task. Tying an 1⁄8-inch Dyneema messenger line around a rigging component at the top of the headstay and then securing it to the masthead, I ensured that I could not drop the headstay while unpinning it, which was critical because the headstay weighs so much more than any other shroud due to the furling unit and its aluminum foil extrusion.

After unpinning and lowering the entire unit to the dock, we chopped off the swageless eye fitting at the top. There are methods of splicing an old headstay to a new one to help pull the new headstay in place, but with a foil that looked fairly large and easy to work with, we just pulled out the old wire and fed the new one up the foil, jiggling it around each time it got stuck at a joint between two sections. With the new headstay now in place, I measured it and used a hacksaw to cut it to the proper length. Next, I picked apart the strands and carefully installed a Hayn Hi-Mod swageless fitting, making sure to use anti-corrosion Tef-Gel where needed.

Once everything was ready, I went back aloft, pulled up the new headstay and pinned it back in place. It wasn’t exceptionally easy to pull the shroud up and install it while 50 feet in the air, but again, with a thoroughly planned, safety-first approach, it was quite a manageable task.

Though I still plan to pull the mast and give it a thorough overhaul before any long-distance cruising, Quiver now has brand-new standing rigging and a couple of new chainplates. A few weeks and a few thousand dollars after nearly dismasting my new vessel, I sailed Quiver out of the same channel, hung a left at the last red marker and turned hard on the wind again. The drama of headstay failure was replaced with the sheer pleasure of sailing a good and powerful 34-foot tiller boat upwind.

Over the next 19 hours, the breeze eventually went light, and died altogether a couple of times, but my thrown-together crew of four sailed to Lahaina, on the island of Maui, for Quiver ‘s maiden voyage with the upgraded rig.

Power-reaching into Lahaina at 0100 with a stiff offshore breeze, I had my first epic bit of night-sailing on the boat. I had sailed to Maui to attend my close friend “Uncle” Tony’s wedding. He had sailed his previous Kaufman 47 Knot Tide Down to New Zealand from Hawaii, alongside my old Cal 2-27 Mongo. The night before the wedding, Quiver served up a picture-perfect sunset whale-watching tour for the bride and groom and some of their close friends, complete with numerous humpback sightings. It was a fond new memory to add to my collection from the past.

While I still have many more projects to complete before taking off on my first long bluewater cruise aboard the 34-footer, the unfortunate gear failure just after purchasing Quiver turned into a valuable experience that signaled the beginning of another good old boat’s resurrection. Quiver was already in better nick than she had been in years, and the dream of voyaging to distant lands was well and truly back alive after months of boatlessness. After a ripping sail home to Oahu via the north shore of Molokai, Quiver had proved herself. Only one question still remained: Where on earth will you take me, boat?

Going Up: Ascending a Mast

Before working on any mast — unless it’s a crewed race boat with lots of muscle to haul me aloft — I much prefer to assemble my own rig-ascending setup as opposed to being dependent on a helper to help crank me up and down the spar. To do this, I use my bowman’s harness, which is essentially just a rock-climbing harness, and attach a block and tackle to it.

I use a 3-to-1 purchase, meaning that I need roughly four times as much rope as the mast is long. In the case of Quiver, that meant buying about 200 feet of 5⁄16-inch double-braid polyester line. A 4-to-1 purchase is also quite useful; it merely costs and weighs a bit more, along with the additional rope required. There are many other ways to ascend a mast, but for performing work aloft by one’s self or pulling rigging jobs on the side, the block and tackle attached to a harness or bosun’s chair is my preferred method. Once I reach the desired height, I use a double slipknot to secure myself in place.

Ronnie Simpson, a frequent CW contributor, is a sailor and writer living in Honolulu while he pursues a degree in integrated multi­media at Hawaii Pacific University. He is the co-founder of a wounded veterans sailing nonprofit .

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Replacing standing rigging

• Thread starter Berkeley 30
• Start date Nov 8, 2023
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 30

Berkeley 30

We've got a 1985 Catalina 30 with standard rig and the standing rigging needs to be replaced. It has a roller furler and there's basically no way we can replace it ourselves (you have to cut off the fitting at the bottom of the stay, slide the sections off, put them back onto the new stay, and then swage on the new fitting after putting the foil onto the stay). So, off to the rig shop. We were horrified to discover that the yards we called around here (SF Bay Area) wanted upwards of $8,000 to do the job, including a place that planned to do it with the mast in the boat. Does this sound as crazy to others as it does to us? Is there a more affordable way to do this? I know we could take the other wires off the boat ourselves and schlepp them down to the rigger to have new one's fabricated, but I'm guessing that wouldn't take a huge amount off the cost. (I'm waiting for a quote on that.) Are we missing something?  

Don S/V ILLusion

The cheapest way to re-rig is to remove the mast.  

You can replace the forestay yourself if you use swageless fittings such as Sta-Lok for one or both ends.  

The cheap part of re-rigging is the cost of the wire and fittings. The expensive part is paying for the labor to install the rigging. For reference the total cost of the wire and swaged end fittings for our 36' boat was only about $3500. We removed the rigging and sent it to Rigging Only in Fairhaven, MA. They duplicate the rigging and sent it back. We did not replace the turn buckle barrels or the deck studs. It is easiest, and a DIY job if the mast is down. This also gives you the chance to replace any wiring or lights that may need attention. Using Standard-lock fittings is also a DIY option. Rigging Only  

dlochner said: Using Standard-lock fittings is also a DIY option. Rigging Only Click to expand

In 2018 I paid $1900 for my C30 standing rigging, except the forestay. The mast was down so the rigger took off all the rigging, went back to his shop to make up the new and back to the boat to install. When inspected the fuller he determined it was less than 10 years old so the forestay didn’t need to be changed.  

Tally Ho said: Is that Sta-Loc ? Spell check correction? Or a new fitting it was not aware of? Greg Click to expand

It is one of those Boat challenges that happens on a 38 year old rig. Noted you are in the San Francisco Bay. Your rig gets a work out greater than some sailing only on sunny moderate wind days. In the Bay Area $8K is not a surprise. My 35ft boat was $11K. Mast was down for 3 months (boat was in it’s slip no need for the boat to be out on the hard all that time). I had the mast stripped and rebuilt by a master rigger to ocean passage standards. This carried a higher cost. I know a Catalina 36 that had the standing rig replaced in Canada 2 years ago. Cost was about $4K USD. The mast stayed in place and the rig was replaced one line at a time while at the dock. I believe it was a 3day project. I started with the info about your sailing location. You want to careful about how the work is done. How long you want to sail and what type of sailing you plan to do on the boat. A rig failure is not a good option in the middle of the San Francisco Bay.  

Project_Mayhem

Catalina Direct has new standing rigging for the tall rig for less than $1200. Since your in SF, lets jack up the price for mast stepping and call it 3k. Add in some wiggle room and we're at $4500 Standing Rigging Kit for C-30 Tall Rig, Custom Match  

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How Much Does It Cost to Replace Standing Sailing Rigging?

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When it comes to standing sailing rigging replacement cost, there is no one-size-fits-all answer.

The cost of replacing your standing rigging will depend on a variety of factors, including the size and type of boat, the age and condition of the rigging, and the materials used in the replacement process.

In this blog post, we will provide an overview of the factors that affect standing rigging replacement costs, as well as some ballpark estimates for what you can expect to pay.

Cost Factors

One of the most important factors in standing rigging replacement cost is the size of your boat. Larger boats will require more material and labor to replace their standing rigging, and as such, will typically have higher costs.

Additionally, the age and condition of your standing rigging will also affect the cost of replacement. If your standing rigging is old or in poor condition, it may need to be replaced with a higher-quality product, which will also drive up costs.

Finally, the materials used in standing rigging replacement can also affect costs. Most standing rigging is made from stainless steel wire or rod, but some manufacturers offer alternatives made from other materials like carbon fiber or Kevlar.

These alternative materials can sometimes offer advantages in terms of weight or performance, but they also come with a higher price tag.

Ballpark Estimates

With all of these factors in mind, what can you expect to pay for standing rigging replacement?

For a small boat (under 30 feet), you can expect to pay anywhere from $500 to $2000 for standing rigging replacement. For a medium-sized boat (30-50 feet), the cost will be somewhere between $2000 and $4000.

And for a large boat (over 50 feet), you should budget for at least $4000, and potentially much more depending on the size and condition of the vessel.

Of course, these are just ballpark estimates, and your actual costs may vary.

Can You Do It Yourself?

For many boat owners, standing rigging replacement is a job that is best left to the professionals. The process can be complex and dangerous, and it is important to make sure that the job is done correctly in order to avoid serious safety risks.

However, if you are experienced with working on boats and are confident in your ability to handle the project, you may be able to save some money by doing the work yourself.

If you do decide to tackle standing rigging replacement on your own, be sure to do plenty of research ahead of time and have a clear plan for how you will complete the project. You should also factor in the cost of any tools or materials that you will need to purchase in order to complete the job.

Hi, my name’s David. I started this pricing blog as a side project to help people figure out the best prices on common services. Whether you’re trying to figure out how much it costs to get scanning done at Staples or the expense to bleach short hair, more than likely I’ve blogged about it. Shoot me an email if you have any questions: [email protected].

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Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, guide to tackling a complete re-rig.

30 Oct 2018

Replacing your Standing Rigging with Jimmy Green Marine

The task of replacing the standing rigging on a sailing yacht may seem daunting but there is a procedure to follow that can make it a relatively straight forward process for anyone who is reasonably practical.

The first decision is whether to tackle the job with the mast up or down.

If you have enough time together with the availability of a mast lift, then mast down is by far the easier option. The whole project will be much easier with the mast horizontal and chocked up on firm ground and accessible to work. You may even elect to carry out the upper mast inspection after lowering the mast to save going aloft in a bosuns chair. You will be able to purchase each wire with swaged terminals at both ends finished and ready to fit. You can order yourself online or with help from the Jimmy Green Rigging Team.

You can take confidence from the fact there is a good deal of adjustment on the rigging screws to allow for any minor errors in measurement. It’s worth noting that Team Jimmy Green set the turnbuckles at 2/3 open unless otherwise requested and undertake to produce the finished wires accurately to within plus or minus the diameter of the wire.

If the mast has to remain stepped, you need a slightly different approach, generally involving the purchase of each wire over long with the top terminal swaged. The bottom end will need to be finished in situ by cutting to the exact length and fitting a DIY swageless (mechanical) terminal. Modern  Swageless terminals from Sta-Lok or Petersen are fairly simple to fit so you can be confident of success.

Rigging Checklist

• Rig Tune and Tension check on existing rigging
• Consider any design or specification alterations
• Close inspection of all components including measuring diameters
• Take photos
• Mark all tension settings (with tape above and/or below the rigging screw)
• Determine any possible improvements
• Order process for mast unstepped
• Order process for mast remaining stepped

Each step is explained more fully below:

1. Rig Tune and Tension check on existing rigging

Begin by checking that your current rigging is set up and tuned correctly. This need not be as technical as it sounds - you just need to be sure that you are copying a rig that works well. The essentials are mast rake and bend, athwartship vertical alignment and correct tensioning. You may want to elicit some professional advice but if your current set up performs satisfactorily upwind and downwind on both tacks/gybes, it may be best not to interfere with the current settings. The aim of the game is to replicate the old rig with a new one within parameters that allow for adjustment and tuning.

Look for extra unnecessary shackles or toggles which may have been added to compensate for the wire being too short and determine whether they can be omitted from the new rig.

2. Consider any design or specification alterations

The next step is to survey all aspects of the rigging including an assessment of whether the existing is the right design and specification for your anticipated purposes e.g Coastal, Offshore or Ocean Cruising, occasional or hard core racing.

3. Close inspection of all components

Carry out a thorough inspection of the rigging including all the wire, terminals and clevis pins. Establish the size of every component and make notes. A good quality pair of callipers is an invaluable investment for producing accurate results.

Once you have confirmed the wire diameter, the approximate length and identified the terminals top and bottom, it is a simple online exercise to get an accurate estimate of the replacement cost on  JimmyGreen.com/standing rigging . Alternatively, Team Jimmy Green can readily produce a costing based on the same information.

4. Take photos

Take photos of everything including zoomed in detail of anything you are not sure about and any others that will serve as a reminder when fitting the new shrouds and stays.

Check for any signs of wear or structural damage and identify the probable cause. Problems can occur for many reasons e.g. misalignment leading to stress at an odd angle, fittings that allow unnecessary movement, lack of articulation due to missing toggles, undersize clevis pins or oversize clevis pin holes. Some of these may be part of the reason that you are replacing the rig so it is best to avoid repeating the issue on the new set up.

There are standard pin and hole diameters that correspond with the thread size of the studs in the turnbuckles. There is a varied choice of stud/turnbuckle sizes on each wire diameter. Components either side of the normal sizing ared enotes as Down Size and Up Size by Petersen Stainless Rigging. Threads are generally UNF or possibly the Metric equivalent. The table below sets out all the relevant sizes for standard, down size and up size components. If your rigging has special non standard characteristics, the Jimmy Green Rigging Team can source bespoke replacements or suggest suitable alternatives.

This chart is a guide only. Please check all dimensions before ordering your rigging.

5. Mark all tension settings

Make a note of all the turnbuckle settings before you disconnect any shrouds or stays by marking them with tape or taking photos. You will need to loosen all the turnbuckles to disconnect them at deck level.

Remember to return them to their noted settings before measuring. The new rigging can then be made to the required length with the optimum adjustment, normally 2/3 open.

6. Determine any possible improvements

One last check to ensure that there isn’t a change of fitting or a tweak in the set up that will make the new rig an improvement on the old one.

7. Order Process for Mast Unstepped.

Dependent on the time factor there are two main options to consider:

Determine the terminals required, measure the wires, make any adjustments and place your order either online or by emailing your requirements for Team Jimmy Green to load the order for you.

N.B. The old wires should be removed from the mast, pulled out taut with a little tension if possible to ensure that they are straight in readiness for measuring.

Measurements are from  bearing edge to bearing edge of the pins or eyes.

For T terminals and studs, refer to our  Standing Rigging Custom Build Instructions .

Label the individual stays. You may need them as an aide memoire when you come to fit the new standing rigging.

Check and double check your measurements and terminal fittings before ordering. Remember the old adage: “Measure twice, cut once”.

Remove the old stays, labelling them carefully as you go and noting any amendments required to length or fittings.

Coil the wires as neatly as possible.

Send them or bring them to Jimmy Green Marine for assessment and a quote.

This option puts the onus on the Jimmy Green Rigging Team to replicate your rigging accurately.

8. Order Process for mast remaining stepped

Establish the length of the existing shrouds and stays.

Order new wires with the required top terminals swaged on and the wire length appropriately over length for cutting and fitting in situ.

Order DIY swageless terminals for the bottom end.

The wire should be long enough so that it can be cut and fitted with the new swageless terminal to finish at the desired length.

N.B. Replacing the forestay will be tricky if it is fitted with a headsail furler and you may need professional help.

Standing Rigging Assistance Shop for Standing Rigging

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Carrying replacement rigging for emergency use

Keyboard_arrow_left sea anchors and yacht drogues, sheets and halyards selection guide keyboard_arrow_right.

Exact Cost To Replace Standing Rigging in the UK

Over time, wear and tear can cause damage to the standing rigging of your boat, which may require a full or partial replacement. You have the option to either do a DIY replacement or hire a professional to do the job, but the costs may vary depending on the complexity of the rigging and the materials used. To help you estimate the exact cost of replacing your standing rigging in the UK, here's what you can expect.

The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a small sailboat measuring 20–30 feet is around £1,000–£2,500. For a medium sailboat, replacement costs can range from £2,500 to £4,500. Meanwhile, for large sailboats measuring 40–50 feet, the cost can escalate from £4,500 to £7,000.

You might only spend around £400–£1,500 to replace the standing rigging of a boat under 30 feet, but hiring a professional might double the costs. Let's see how else you can save on the cost of replacing your boat's standing rigging.

• Replacing the standing rigging by yourself only costs around £400 to £1,500 for boats under 30 feet, almost half the cost of hiring a professional rigger, however, it can be a time-consuming process, particularly for inexperienced individuals.
• Synthetic fiber rigging may have a higher initial cost, but it can be more cost-effective in the long run.
• Medium sailboats have a more complex rigging design and therefore require a higher labor cost to remove and install.
• Using high-quality materials, such as marine-grade stainless steel, is more expensive but is also more durable and can last longer than cheaper materials.
• Stainless steel wire may be a more affordable option for smaller boats or those with lower performance requirements.

On this page:

Cost of standing rigging replacement per boat type, cost of standing rigging replacement per material, cost of standing rigging replacement per company, pros and cons of doing diy standing rigging replacement.

In this section, we will discuss the average costs of standing rigging replacement for boats in the UK by comparing costs for different types of boats, rigging materials, and rigging companies.

Beow is a breakdown of approximate costs for different types of boats:

The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a small sailboat

Small sailboats with a length of 20–30 feet only have an estimated cost range of £1,000–£2,500. This is because small sailboats typically have simpler rigging systems than larger ones, which means that the cost of replacement is lower.

The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a medium sailboat

The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a medium sailboat with a length of 30–40 feet is estimated to be around £2,500 - £4,500. This cost includes the cost of the materials, the labor involved in removing and installing the rigging, and any additional work that may be required to ensure the safety and integrity of the boat.

Using high-quality materials, such as marine-grade stainless steel , is more expensive but is also more durable and can last longer than cheaper materials. Since medium sailboats have a more complex rigging design, it will require more work and time to remove and install the rigging.

The cost of replacing the standing rigging of a large sailboat

Replacing the standing rigging of large sailboats with a length of 40–50 feet ranges from £4,500 - £7,000, but in some, it can range from £10,000 to £30,000 or more. This cost can be affected by the complexity of the rigging system, the type of mast, and the number of shrouds and stays required.

Using high-quality materials for riggings, such as carbon fiber or titanium, will be more expensive than traditional materials such as stainless steel. However, these materials can offer significant advantages in terms of weight reduction and performance. Also, If the boat has a tall mast or multiple sails, the rigging may be more complex and require more time and labor to install.

Below is a comparison of the most common rigging materials in the UK and their approximate costs:

Cost of stainless steel rigging

Stainless steel 1x19 wire is a popular rigging material due to its strength and durability. It is commonly used in standing rigging systems and is relatively affordable, with a cost range of £10 - £20 per meter. However, stainless steel wire can corrode over time, especially in saltwater environments, and requires regular maintenance to prevent failure.

Cost of dyform wire rigging

Dyform wire is a higher-grade stainless steel wire that is more resistant to corrosion and fatigue. It is also stronger than standard stainless steel wire and is commonly used in high-performance racing yachts. However, it comes at a higher cost, with a range of £15 - £30 per meter.

Cost of synthetic fiber rigging

Synthetic fiber rigging, such as Dyneema, is becoming an increasingly popular alternative to traditional wire rigging due to its lightweight and low maintenance requirements. It is also highly resistant to UV damage and does not corrode. However, it is the most expensive option, with a cost range of £40 - £60 per meter.

While synthetic fiber rigging may have a higher initial cost , it may be more cost-effective in the long run due to its low maintenance requirements and longer lifespan. On the other hand, stainless steel wire may be a more affordable option for smaller boats or those with lower performance requirements.

Some factors to consider when comparing rigging companies include their reputation, the scope of work included in the price, and the availability of after-sales support. It's a good idea to get several quotes from different companies before making your decision. Some of the most popular companies in the UK that offer rigging services are the following:

Cost of rigging replacement at Allspars

Allspars is a rigging company based in Plymouth, UK, that specializes in the design, manufacture, and installation of masts, booms, and rigging systems for sailboats. They have been in business for over 30 years and have a reputation for producing high-quality, reliable products.

In addition to their manufacturing operations, Allspars also offers rigging services for sailboats. Their rigging services include standing rigging replacement, running rigging replacement, mast and boom repairs, and rig tuning.

Allspars has a strong commitment to customer service and offers a 24-hour emergency callout service for urgent rigging repairs. They also have a network of service centers throughout the UK and Europe, which means that their rigging services are available in many different locations. Their estimated cost for standing rigging replacement is around £3,000 to £5,000.

Cost of rigging replacement at Selden Mast

Selden Mast is a global company that specializes in the design, manufacture, and distribution of masts, booms, and rigging systems for sailboats. They also have rigging services such as standing rigging replacement, running rigging replacement, mast and boom repairs, and rig tuning.

They have a global network of dealers and service centers, which means that their rigging services are available in many different countries around the world. Their estimated cost for standing rigging replacement is around £2,500 to £4,500.

Cost of rigging replacement at Hamble Yacht Services

Hamble Yacht Services is a full-service yacht repair and maintenance company based in Hamble, UK. They offer a wide range of services, including rigging, electrical, mechanical, and cosmetic repairs, as well as boat maintenance and storage. Their estimated cost for standing rigging replacement is around £3,000 to £5,000.

Their rigging services include standing rigging replacement, running rigging replacement, mast and boom repairs, and rig tuning. They work on a variety of boats, from small dinghies to large yachts, and they have a team of experienced riggers who can provide expert advice and guidance on all aspects of rigging.

In this section, we will explore the pros and cons of DIY standing rigging replacement, compare costs, and consider safety aspects.

Cost comparison with professional replacement

To give you an idea of the cost difference between DIY and professional standing rigging replacement, here's a rough estimate:

Safety considerations when doing DIY rig replacement

Here are some safety tips to keep in mind when considering a DIY standing rigging replacement:

• Assess your skills: Be honest with yourself about your abilities. If you're uncertain about any aspect of the project, consider seeking professional advice or assistance.
• Use appropriate tools and equipment: Try to make sure that you have the correct tools and equipment for the job. This may involve renting or borrowing from fellow boat owners.
• Double-check your work: Carefully inspect your work upon completion, looking for any potential errors or issues.
• Seek guidance: Reach out to experienced sailors or riggers for tips and advice. You can often find valuable guidance through online forums and local sailing clubs.

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