sailboat without mast

What Is A Sailboat Mast?

A sailboat mast is one of the most defining features of a sailboat (along with the sails of course!) You can immediately tell that a boat is a sailing boat when you spot the tall mast sticking out of the hull.

But why do sailboats need a mast? Having lived on a sailboat for years now I’ve never really questioned the need for a mast. It’s such an integral part of the boat that I just sort of forget it’s there!

When our friends recently lost their mast due to a rigging failure it got me thinking – why do sailboats need a mast and what function (aside from holding up the sails) do they actually play. It turns out, quite a lot!

We’re going to dive into the fascinating world of sailboat masts, exploring different rigs, mast materials, and the different functions that masts play. It’s important stuff if you want to go sailing, and a lot of it I should have known sooner!

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Table of Contents

Why do sailboats need a mast, parts of the mast, what materials are masts made from, single mast rigs, sailboats with two masts, sailboats with three masts, how to look after your mast.

A sailboat mast is a vertical, upright structure that supports the sails of a sailboat. It is a crucial component of the boat’s rigging system and plays a key role in harnessing the power of the wind to propel the vessel. Typically located in the center of the boat, the mast extends upward from the deck or hull.

The height of the mast varies depending on the size and type of the sailboat, directly impacting the sail area and overall performance of the boat.

Together with the boom (a horizontal spar attached to the bottom of the mast), the mast allows sailors to control the shape and orientation of the sails, optimizing their efficiency in different wind conditions.

The design and configuration of the mast can vary depending on the type of sailboat, such as a sloop, cutter, ketch, or schooner.

Sailboats require a mast primarily to support the sails.

It holds the sails in an elevated position, allowing them to catch the wind effectively. Without a mast, the sails would lack the means to be raised and positioned to harness the power of the wind.

There are a few other important jobs that the mast plays:

Control and Manipulation of Sails: The mast, along with the boom (a horizontal spar attached to the mast’s lower end), enables sailors to control and manipulate the sails.

By adjusting the angle and tension of the sails through the mast, sailors can optimize their performance according to wind conditions and desired boat speed.

This control allows for maneuverability and efficient use of wind power.

Structural Integrity: The mast contributes to the overall structural integrity of the sailboat. It helps distribute the loads and forces exerted by the sails, rigging, and masthead components throughout the boat’s hull and keel.

The mast’s design and construction ensure stability and strength, allowing the boat to withstand the forces generated by the wind.

Attachment Points for Rigging: The mast provides attachment points for various rigging components, including halyards (lines used to raise and lower the sails), stays (wires or rods that support the mast in different directions), and shrouds (wires that provide lateral support to the mast).

These rigging elements are essential for properly tensioning the sails and maintaining the mast’s stability.

Height and Visibility: The mast’s height contributes to the sailboat’s visibility, allowing other vessels to spot it more easily, particularly when sailing in congested waters. The mast’s presence also serves as a visual reference for determining the boat’s position, orientation, and distance from potential hazards.

While the mast’s primary purpose is to support the sails and enable control over their position, it also plays a significant role in maintaining the structural integrity of the sailboat and enhancing its visibility on the water.

Basically, the mast is pretty darn important!

Along with a million other confusing sailboat terms , the mast has lots of different parts too. A sailboat mast consists of several distinct parts, each serving a specific function. Here are the different parts commonly found on a sailboat mast:

• Masthead: The masthead is the topmost section of the mast. It often includes attachment points for various components such as halyards (lines used to raise and lower the sails), the forestay (the wire or rod that supports the front of the mast), and other rigging elements. The masthead may also house instruments like wind vanes or antennas.
• Spreaders: Spreaders are horizontal bars attached to the mast, typically positioned at specific intervals along its length. They help support the rigging wires and prevent excessive sideways bending of the mast. The position and angle of the spreaders contribute to the proper alignment and tension of the rigging.
• Shrouds: Shrouds are the wires or cables that provide lateral support to the mast. They connect the mast to the sides of the boat, helping to stabilize the mast and distribute the loads generated by the sails. Shrouds are typically tensioned using turnbuckles or other adjustable fittings.
• Backstay: The backstay is a cable or wire that provides support to the rear of the mast. It helps counterbalance the forces exerted by the forestay and the mainsail, preventing the mast from excessively bending forward. Adjustable backstays allow for tuning the mast’s rigidity based on wind conditions and sail trim.
• Halyard Sheaves: Halyard sheaves are small wheels or pulleys located at the masthead or lower down the mast. They guide halyards, which are lines used to raise and lower the sails. Halyard sheaves minimize friction, allowing smooth and efficient hoisting or lowering of the sails.
• Gooseneck: The gooseneck is a fitting that connects the boom to the mast. It allows the boom to pivot or rotate horizontally, enabling control over the angle and position of the mainsail. The gooseneck may include a pin or other locking mechanism to secure the boom to the mast.
• Mast Step: The mast step is the base or fitting where the mast rests and is secured to the deck or hull of the sailboat. It provides stability and distributes the loads from the mast to the boat’s structure.

These are some of the primary parts found on a sailboat mast. The specific configuration and additional components may vary depending on the sailboat’s design, rigging system, and intended use.

I was surprised to learn that sailboat masts are commonly made from several different materials, each offering its own advantages in terms of strength, weight, and flexibility.

The choice of material depends on various factors, including the type and size of the sailboat, desired performance characteristics, and budget.

Here are some of the materials used for sailboat mast construction:

Aluminum is a popular choice for sailboat masts due to its favorable combination of strength, lightweight, and corrosion resistance. Aluminum masts are relatively easy to manufacture, making them cost-effective. They offer good stiffness, enabling efficient power transfer from the sails to the boat.

Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber has gained significant popularity in sailboat mast construction, especially in high-performance and racing sailboats. You’ll see black carbon fibre masts on fancy sailboats!

Carbon fiber masts are exceptionally lightweight, providing excellent stiffness-to-weight ratios. This allows for enhanced responsiveness, improved performance, and reduced heeling (tilting) of the boat.

Carbon fiber masts can be precisely engineered to optimize flex patterns and provide targeted strength where needed.

Traditional sailboats, particularly those with a classic or vintage design, may have masts made from wood. Wood offers an aesthetically pleasing and traditional look.

Wooden masts can be constructed using solid wood or laminated techniques, which involve layering thin strips of wood for added strength and stability. Wood masts require regular maintenance, including varnishing and sealing to protect against moisture.

In some cases, steel may be used for sailboat masts, especially in larger vessels or those designed for specific purposes, such as offshore cruising or heavy-duty applications.

Steel masts offer robustness and durability, but they are heavier compared to other materials. They require adequate corrosion protection to prevent rusting.

Composite Materials

Sailboat masts can also be constructed using composite materials, such as fiberglass or fiberglass-reinforced plastics. These materials provide a balance between cost, weight, and strength. Fiberglass masts can be an option for recreational sailboats or those on a tighter budget.

It’s worth noting that advancements in materials and manufacturing techniques continually evolve, introducing new possibilities for sailboat mast construction.

The choice of mast material should consider factors such as boat type, intended use, performance requirements, and personal preferences, balanced with considerations of cost and maintenance.

Different Types Of Masts

There are several different types of masts used in sailboat designs, each with its own characteristics and purposes.

We’ve included how the masts are fixed on the boat. This one is an important one when buying a sailboat as you might have a preference over how your mast is attached to the hull or deck.

We’ve also included different rigs, as some boats have just a single mast and other sailboats will have two or more masts. Again, you might have a preference as to which rig set up you prefer so it’s worth knowing the pros and cons of each.

Keel-stepped Mast

A keel-stepped mast is one that extends down through the deck and is secured to the boat’s keel or structural framework. Keel-stepped masts offer stability and strength, as they transfer the loads directly to the boat’s foundation.

They are commonly found in larger sailboats and offshore cruising vessels. We loved knowing our deck was secured to one of the strongest parts of the boat.

It does come with some problems though, like the fact it can leak and start raining in the boat! A decent mast boot will stop this.

Deck-stepped Mast

A deck-stepped mast rests on a step or fitting on the deck, rather than extending down through it. Deck-stepped masts are typically used in smaller sailboats and are more straightforward to install, maintain, and unstep.

They are often lighter and less expensive than keel-stepped masts but may sacrifice some stability and rigidity.

Fractional Rig

A fractional rig features a mast where the forestay is attached below the masthead, typically at a point less than halfway up the mast’s height. This design allows for a larger headsail and a smaller mainsail.

Fractional rigs are popular on modern cruising and racing sailboats as they offer versatility, easy sail control, and improved performance in various wind conditions.

Masthead Rig

In a masthead rig, the forestay attaches at the top of the masthead. This design is commonly found in traditional sailboats. Masthead rigs typically feature larger headsails and smaller mainsails. They are known for their simplicity, easy balance, and suitability for cruising and downwind sailing.

There are various different rig set ups that just have one single mast. We’ll look at a few of the most popular types, but be aware that there are quite a few variations out there these days! It can get a little complicated!

The sloop rig is one of the most popular and widely used single mast rigs. It consists of a single mast with a mainsail and a headsail. The headsail, typically a jib or genoa, is attached to the forestay at the bow of the boat, while the mainsail is attached to the mast and boom.

Sloops offer simplicity, versatility, and ease of handling, making them suitable for a wide range of sailboats, from small day-sailers to larger cruising vessels.

A cutter rig utilizes two jibs : a smaller headsail attached to the forestay and a larger headsail called a staysail attached to an inner stay or a removable stay.

The mainsail is usually smaller in a cutter rig. This rig provides versatility and options for different sail combinations, making it suitable for offshore cruising and handling various wind conditions.

We absolutely loved our cutter rig as it gave so much flexibility, especially in heavy weather. A downside is that tacking is a little harder, as you have to pull the genoa past the stay sail.

Sailboats with two masts tend to be seen on older boats, but they are still popular and quite common, especially with long-distance sailors looking for versatility.

The yawl rig features two masts, with a shorter mizzen mast positioned aft of the main mast and rudder stock. The mizzen mast is usually shorter than the main mast.

Yawls offer versatility, improved balance, and increased maneuverability, making them suitable for offshore cruising and long-distance sailing.

A ketch rig has two masts: a taller main mast located near the boat’s center and a shorter mizzen mast positioned aft of the main mast but forward of the rudder stock. The mizzen mast is typically shorter than the main mast.

Ketch rigs provide additional sail area and options for sail combinations, offering good balance and flexibility for cruising and long-distance sailing. A lot of long-term cruisers love ketch rigs, though they tend to be found on older boats.

The downside is that you’ll have two masts with accompanying rigging to maintain, which isn’t necessarily a small job.

Sailboats with three masts or more are rare. They tend to be seen only on very large, expensive sailing yachts due to the additional expense of maintaining three masts, rigging and additional sails.

They aren’t great for single-handed crews but they do look very impressive and can power bigger vessels.

Schooner Rig

A schooner rig features two or more masts, with the aft mast (known as the mizzen mast) being taller than the forward mast(s).

Schooners are known for their multiple headsails and often have a gaff-rigged or square-rigged configuration on one or both masts. Schooner rigs offer impressive sail area, versatility, and classic aesthetics.

Schooner rigs are much rarer than the rigs mentioned above so it’s unlikely you’ll find one on a cruising vessel.

These are just a few examples of the different types of masts used in sailboat designs. Each rig type has its own advantages and considerations in terms of sail control, performance, balance, and intended use.

The choice of mast and rig depends on factors such as boat size, purpose, sailing conditions, and personal preferences.

We didn’t know the first thing about looking after our mast when we first moved aboard and we made it our mission to find out. When you’re sailing frequently then the last thing you want is to experience a mast coming down mid-passage!

Taking proper care of your sailboat mast is important to ensure its longevity and optimal performance. Here are some tips on how to look after your mast:

• Regular Inspections: Conduct regular visual inspections of your mast to check for any signs of damage, wear, or corrosion. Look for cracks, dents, loose fittings, or any other issues that may compromise the mast’s integrity.
• Cleaning: Keep your mast clean by regularly washing it with fresh water. Remove dirt, salt, and other contaminants that can accelerate corrosion. Use a mild detergent or boat-specific cleaner, and rinse thoroughly.
• Corrosion Prevention: Protect your mast from corrosion by applying a suitable corrosion inhibitor or protective coating. Pay particular attention to areas where fittings, rigging, or other components come into contact with the mast.
• Lubrication: Lubricate moving parts such as sheaves, shackles, and slides with a marine-grade lubricant. This helps prevent friction and ensures smooth operation. Be cautious not to over-lubricate, as excess lubricant can attract dirt and debris.
• Rigging Maintenance: Inspect your rigging regularly for signs of wear, such as broken strands, fraying, or excessive stretching. Replace any worn or damaged rigging promptly to avoid potential mast damage.
• UV Protection: The sun’s UV rays can degrade and weaken the mast over time. Protect your mast from UV damage by applying a UV-resistant coating or using mast covers when the boat is not in use.
• Storage Considerations: If you need to store your boat for an extended period, consider removing the mast and storing it horizontally or in a mast-up position, depending on the boat design. Store the mast in a clean, dry, and well-ventilated area to prevent moisture buildup and potential damage.
• Professional Inspections: Periodically have your mast inspected by a professional rigger or boatyard to assess its condition and identify any potential issues that may require attention. They can provide expert advice on maintenance and repair.

Remember, if you are unsure about any maintenance or repair tasks, it’s always recommended to consult with a professional rigger or boatyard to ensure proper care and safety of your mast.

We learned so much from having our rigging inspected, so we highly recommend you do this if you’re at all unsure.

Conclusion: What Is A Sailboat Mast?

In conclusion, a sailboat mast is a crucial component that plays a vital role in the performance, control, and integrity of a sailboat. It’s a good idea to learn about sailboats before you head out on a sail – unlike us!

The mast serves as a vertical structure that supports the sails, allowing them to capture the power of the wind effectively. The mast enables sailors to control and manipulate the position of the sails, optimizing performance based on wind conditions.

Additionally, the mast contributes to the overall structural integrity of the boat, distributing loads and forces throughout the hull and keel. Various rigging components, such as halyards, shrouds, and spreaders, are attached to the mast, providing support and enabling precise sail control.

By understanding the importance of the mast and properly caring for it through regular inspections, cleaning, corrosion prevention, lubrication, and rigging maintenance, sailors can ensure their mast’s longevity and optimal performance.

A well-maintained sailboat mast contributes to a safe, enjoyable, and successful sailing experience.

• How much do new sails cost?
• How long do new sails last?
• Storm sails

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• Navigating the High Seas: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts are the unsung heroes of the sailing world, silently supporting the sails and ensuring a smooth journey across the open waters. Whether you're a seasoned sailor or a novice, understanding the intricacies of sailboat masts is essential for a safe and enjoyable voyage. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of sailboat masts, discussing their types, maintenance, and everything in between. 

Types of Sailboat Masts

Sailboat masts come in various configurations, each with its advantages and drawbacks. The two primary types are keel-stepped and deck-stepped masts.

Keel-Stepped Masts

Keel-stepped masts are the most common type, extending through the deck and resting on the boat's keel. They provide excellent stability and are suitable for larger sailboats. However, they require careful maintenance to prevent water intrusion into the boat's cabin.

Deck-Stepped Masts

Deck-stepped masts rest on the deck of the boat, making them easier to install and remove. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are more forgiving in terms of maintenance. However, they may offer slightly less stability than keel-stepped masts.

Components of a Sailboat Mast

To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves.

The masthead is the topmost section of the mast, where the halyards are attached to raise and lower the sails. It also often houses instruments such as wind indicators and lights.

Spreaders and Shrouds

Spreaders are horizontal supports attached to the mast to help maintain the proper angle of the shrouds (cables or rods that provide lateral support to the mast). Properly adjusted spreaders and shrouds are crucial for mast stability and sail performance.

Mast Materials: Choosing the Right One

Sailboat masts are typically constructed from three primary materials: aluminum, wood, and carbon fiber. Each material has its unique characteristics and is suited to different sailing preferences.

Aluminum Masts

Aluminum masts are lightweight, durable, and relatively easy to maintain. They are commonly used in modern sailboats due to their cost-effectiveness and longevity.

Wooden Masts

Wooden masts, while classic and beautiful, require more maintenance than other materials. They are best suited for traditional or vintage sailboats, where aesthetics outweigh convenience.

Carbon Fiber Masts

Carbon fiber masts are the pinnacle of mast technology. They are incredibly lightweight and strong, enhancing a sailboat's performance. However, they come at a premium price.

Mast Maintenance

Proper mast maintenance is essential for safety and longevity. Regular cleaning, inspection, and addressing minor issues promptly can prevent costly repairs down the line.

Cleaning and Inspection

Regularly clean your mast to remove salt, dirt, and grime. Inspect it for signs of corrosion, wear, or damage, paying close attention to the masthead, spreaders, and shrouds.

Common Repairs and Their Costs

Common mast repairs include fixing corroded areas, replacing damaged spreaders, or repairing shrouds. The cost of repairs can vary widely, depending on the extent of the damage and the materials used.

Extending the Lifespan of Your Mast

Taking steps to prevent damage is essential. Avoid over-tightening halyards, protect your mast from UV radiation, and keep an eye on corrosion-prone areas.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our Magazine .

Check out our latest sailing content:

Stepping and Unstepping a Mast

Stepping and unstepping a mast is a crucial skill for any sailboat owner. This process involves removing or installing the mast on your boat. Here's a step-by-step guide for safe mast handling.

Step-by-Step Guide for Safe Mast Handling

• Gather the necessary tools and equipment.
• Disconnect all electrical and rigging connections.
• Use a crane or mast-stepping system to safely lower or raise the mast.
• Secure the mast in its proper place.
• Reconnect all electrical and rigging connections.

When and Why to Unstep a Mast

You may need to unstep your mast for various reasons, such as transporting your sailboat or performing extensive maintenance. It's crucial to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and ensure a safe unstepping process.

Sailboat Mast Boot: Protecting Your Mast

A mast boot is a simple yet effective way to protect your mast from water intrusion and damage caused by the elements. Here's what you need to know.

The Purpose of a Mast Boot

A mast boot is a flexible material that wraps around the mast at the deck level. It prevents water from entering the cabin through the mast opening, keeping your boat dry and comfortable.

Installing and Maintaining a Mast Boot

Installing a mast boot is a straightforward DIY task. Regularly inspect and replace it if you notice any signs of wear or damage.

Replacing a Sailboat Mast

Despite your best efforts in maintenance, there may come a time when you need to replace your sailboat mast. Here's what you should consider.

Signs That Your Mast Needs Replacement

Common signs include severe corrosion, structural damage, or fatigue cracks. If your mast is beyond repair, it's essential to invest in a replacement promptly.

The Cost of Mast Replacement

The cost of mast replacement can vary significantly depending on the type of mast, materials, and additional rigging needed. It's advisable to obtain multiple quotes from reputable marine professionals.

Yacht Masts: Sailing in Style

For those looking to take their sailing experience to the next level, upgrading to a yacht mast can be a game-changer.

Differences Between Sailboat and Yacht Masts

Yacht masts are typically taller and offer enhanced sail performance. They are often equipped with advanced rigging systems and technology for a more luxurious sailing experience.

Upgrading to a Yacht Mast

Consult with a marine professional to determine if upgrading to a yacht mast is feasible for your sailboat. It can be a significant investment but can transform your sailing adventures.

Sailboat Mast Steps: Climbing to the Top

Mast steps are handy additions to your mast, allowing easier access to perform maintenance or enjoy panoramic views. Here's how to use them safely.

Using Mast Steps Safely

Always use proper safety equipment when climbing mast steps. Make sure they are securely attached to the mast and regularly inspect them for wear or damage.

The Advantages of Mast Steps

Mast steps provide convenience and accessibility, making sailboat maintenance tasks more manageable. They also offer an elevated vantage point for breathtaking views while at anchor.

Mast Maintenance Tips for Beginners

If you're new to sailboat ownership, these mast maintenance tips will help you get started on the right foot.

Essential Care for First-Time Sailboat Owners

• Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
• Seek advice from experienced sailors.
• Invest in quality cleaning and maintenance products.

Preventing Common Mistakes

Avoid common pitfalls, such as neglecting inspections or using harsh cleaning agents that can damage your mast's finish.

Sailing with a Mast in Top Condition

A well-maintained mast contributes to a safer and more enjoyable sailing experience. It enhances your boat's performance and ensures you can rely on it in various weather conditions.

How a Well-Maintained Mast Improves Performance

A properly maintained mast helps maintain sail shape, reducing drag and improving speed. It also ensures that your rigging remains strong and secure.

Safety Considerations

Never compromise on safety. Regularly inspect your mast, rigging, and all associated components to prevent accidents while at sea.

Sailboat masts are the backbone of any sailing adventure, and understanding their intricacies is crucial for a successful voyage. From choosing the right mast material to proper maintenance and upgrading options, this guide has covered it all. By following these guidelines, you can sail the high seas with confidence, knowing that your mast is in top condition.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Nguyenová

BoatNews.com

A sailboat without a mast, switch to kiteboat!

Peter Renssen is a Dutchman, passionate about sailing and kitesurfing who decided to launch a new kiteboat, easy to handle. With the Kitetender, he wants to "dust off" the image of sailing and make sailing easier by providing new sensations.

The Kitetender 400 is a specially developed monohull without mast, but with kite. This kite driven dinghy is the idea of Peter Renssen, its creator. " I've always sailed and windsurfed, but I didn't like the fact that I had to rig the mast, had huge keels... It took at least an hour and a half to rig the mast so I could sail." Surfing on the development of kitesurfing over the last 20 years, Peter has been taking kite lessons for the last 4 years. " So I came up with the idea of creating a sailboat with a kite."

A prototype Kitetender is born. Built in infusion, it is 6.5 m long . "It was fine, everything was working fine, but it didn't match the market." Finally, the team turned to a smaller model, 4.40m, the Kitetender.

The hull of the Kitetender 400 was developed personally by Peter and his team who were looking for hulls with a different hull shape from what is available on the market. " We brought in a designer, Peter Schermer, who also kitesurfs." The Kitetender uses a rudder and daggerboard, but has no keel . " A traditional sailboat is pushed by the wind while the kitetender is pulled."

"We're currently in production, all the moulds are finished. The first model will be released on April 14th and brought to the south of France for testing and commercial videos."

The Kitetender 400 is a small boat that is easily transportable, it can be fixed on the roof of a car for travelling. Finally, all uses are possible with it. " You can learn to kite with it, you can use it without a kite . . ."

Compulsory driving lessons

Unlike boat sails which are static, the kite is moving. And the faster you move it, the more power you get. " You increase the forces eight times over a traditional sail." Thus, the Kitetender 400 can reach up to 21 knots (39 km/h)!

Its designer recommends that you take lessons before you start handling it . "I think it's important to already have some kitesurfing knowledge or to take some kite lessons. After that, you can start with small kites and then try bigger kites later."

Dusting off the sail image

In Holland, the country of Peter Renssen, "C' is a bit like in France. The image of traditional sailing is a bit old." Today, for the creator of the Kitetender, traditional sailing is a little " the antique". Young sailors are looking for sensations and are looking to sail" cool". The Kitetender allows you to combine feeling at sea with fun sailing. " I sail with my kids and they think it's cool."

Developing foils

To make the Kitetender even faster, Peter Renssen wants to add two foils. " As soon as we get out of the water, there's less resistance, so we go faster." Kitetender will soon be preparing a fundraiser to develop these foils. " It's going to be a very easy-to-use foil system. We're going to design automatic foils that are accessible to everybody."

For the moment, the boat is offered for sale on the Kitetender website. Peter Renssen is currently looking for distributors. " It's a bit specific as a product, I'm looking for good distributors who can explain how to use it."

Technical data

Price : 5500 HT without the kite

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How to de-mast a sailboat permanently

Discussion in ' Sailboats ' started by Marco1 , Jan 28, 2014 .

Marco1 Senior Member

Yes, at risk of upsetting sailboat lovers, I thought the sailboat forum would be the place to ask this unholy question. First some background: I live on a water front property on a tidal river some 6 km from the confluence with another much bigger river. This situation limits the size of boat I can have moored to my pontoon. I need to find a displacement cruiser of 25'-35' that draws less than 2'. Yes I know, good luck. All the powerboats of some size draw 3' or more and at low tide I would be in trouble. Ex fishing trawlers are even worst at 4 or 5'. Our local market is rather limited, perhaps it is different in the US and you could find a largish power cruiser, family cruiser, bay boat or anything that floats that is designed for shallow waters. I can't find anything here. I even looked into bringing a steel dutch barge over from France. I love those old barges converted to live aboard and some are rather cheap, but the expenses of shipping them over are not cheap at all. Before going to that extreme, I "discovered" (sorry not into sailing ever a true internal combustion person here) that I can buy a reasonably sized drop/lift/ swing keel boat and they draw just 400mm or so! Just what I need and they even have those lovely small diesel engines like Lister HRW3 with that sound that puts you to sleep. So now to my question. If I get one of those sailboats that I can lift the keel and the rudder, the mast is still in the way because we have some lovely power cables as low as 10 meters to dodge. Considering i am not into sailing and the nearest open water to try to sail is about 50 km away on a winding river the more practical option seems to me is to cut off or remove the mast. Now that seems a simple enough task, take off all the cables, get your chainsaw or a crane and pull it out, or may be not? not sure Also what next? I will have a ballast of a few hundred kilos and the keel. Can the keel or the ballast or both be removed? What about the rudder? Leave it to swing? May be someone here can give me some general idea of what type of boat to look for and what to do to demast it and "de-keel" it or both. This is just an example of what I am after, http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/trailer-boats/binks-b25-3-4/141196 Not the right one because it is a bit small and no on board engine but you get the idea  

gggGuest ...

Unlikely to be a nice boat to be in if there are waves about. Reckon its going to rock roll pitch and everything else without the inertia of the mast and keel, not to mention be pretty tippy. And the other thing is you're paying for a lot of hardware that you just throw away, in the form of all the gear for sailing, not just mast and sails but winches and stuff, so you won't be getting an awful lot of boat to the dollar. Hard to believe there aren't better options around you. Have you taken a good look at what might be available in terms of workboats you could convert for similar effort but a much better result?  

Mm, what about lowering the mast high then?  

Baltic Bandit Previous Member

Its absolutely possible to pull the mast. And it is also true that the motion of sailboats is designed for the mass of the mast to be above the boat. The weight in the keel is there mostly to offset that as well as to work with that. If you remove the mast, you will have a lot of unnecessary weight in the boat that will change how she behaves. That said, unless you are going out into moderate or larger seas, odds are you will not notice the difference. Can you pull the keel and daggerboard? Perhaps. Depends a lot on the boat. most centerboard boats have lead or iron molded/bolted into the bottom of the boat. removing that is likely difficult. But pulling the centerboard out of the boat is perfectly feasible. Understand that in doing so, you are essentially putting the resale value of the boat to negative (IE you will have to pay to have it hauled off). But the thing about it is that you can easily find powerboats that fit what seem to be your specs: http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/custom-built-cabin-cruiser/143469 http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/trailer-boats/chives-seamaster/142976 http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/hartley-32-baycruiser/134724 http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/hartley-30/127697 Are but four that I found in a similar price and length range that are going to draw about the same amount of water. as gggG pointed out, you are paying in part for the sailing gear of a sailboat, which frankly, stripped of the boat, also has negative resale value. And a powerboat is going to have massively more room in it than a sailboat.  

gonzo Senior Member

The centerboard keeps the boat from rolling. The trunk takes a lot of space in the cabin, but if you can live with it, the advantages of lowering the board to decrease the roll would make the ride more comfortable.  

He only has 3'-4' of depth...  

Now I think of it a multihull might fit the requirement better anyway...  

Strikes me that something like this http://au.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/Cruise-a-home-Corsair-2482766/Canada or this http://www.all-about-houseboats.com/seaark-voyager-and-nomad-houseboats.html Would be a better fit. but since he is in Oz, perhaps starting with a platform like this http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f..._String|0&Cr=&trecs=8&__N=1456 285 4294909870 and then adding on something like this http://www.offgridworld.com/how-to-build-a-400sqft-solar-powered-off-grid-cabin-for-2k/ might work better  

Richard Woods Woods Designs

gggGuest said: ↑ Now I think of it a multihull might fit the requirement better anyway... Click to expand...

Baltic Bandit said: ↑ Its absolutely possible to pull the mast. And it is also true that the motion of sailboats is designed for the mass of the mast to be above the boat. The weight in the keel is there mostly to offset that as well as to work with that. If you remove the mast, you will have a lot of unnecessary weight in the boat that will change how she behaves. That said, unless you are going out into moderate or larger seas, odds are you will not notice the difference. Can you pull the keel and daggerboard? Perhaps. Depends a lot on the boat. most centerboard boats have lead or iron molded/bolted into the bottom of the boat. removing that is likely difficult. But pulling the centerboard out of the boat is perfectly feasible. Understand that in doing so, you are essentially putting the resale value of the boat to negative (IE you will have to pay to have it hauled off). But the thing about it is that you can easily find powerboats that fit what seem to be your specs: http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/custom-built-cabin-cruiser/143469 http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/trailer-boats/chives-seamaster/142976 http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/hartley-32-baycruiser/134724 http://www.boatsonline.com.au/boats-for-sale/used/power-boats/hartley-30/127697 Are but four that I found in a similar price and length range that are going to draw about the same amount of water. as gggG pointed out, you are paying in part for the sailing gear of a sailboat, which frankly, stripped of the boat, also has negative resale value. And a powerboat is going to have massively more room in it than a sailboat. Click to expand...

Maybe the Macgregor 26 would suit you best? http://www.macgregor26.com/ Richard Woods  

Marco1 said: ↑ Thank you for that BB but neither of those boats would be likely to draw less than 600mm or 2'. Even when not specified in the ad. The pontoon with a cabin on top is a nice suggestion not far from the lovely steel dutch barges I like. Best so far is the cat in plywood, however I am not after something to build. I have many projects going mainly renovations and the boat is something to take me away from work not to have something extra to build. Just finished building a sea wall and having pulled out my dear old jetty have now bought a 6mx2m pontoon and must build a ramp to it. Ramp must be anchored properly with concrete piles because we have a rampant species of teredo worms that eat just about anything painted or not. Anyway, will continue my quest for a powerboat with a very low draft or may be a big fat sailboat with a low mast and a swing keel. By the way, what is the likely air draft of a 30ish foot sailboat? I have power cables at 10meters height? http://www.dutchbargesforsale.co.uk/barges_for_sale_in_holland/6087/14_0m_tjalk__skutsje.html This would be the go. If only I could motor her across the Mediterranean sea, the Suez canal, what next .. the Indian ocean, under Indonesia and Papua and around cape york and down to Sydney ... Click to expand...

Moggy Senior Member

Cats work well demasted.  

Skyak Senior Member

Richard Woods said: ↑ Maybe the Macgregor 26 would suit you best? http://www.macgregor26.com/ Richard Woods Click to expand...

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Actually that macgregor 26 is the ticket. The catamaran is best but must build it myself so no go for now, may be when I retire. The Macgregor draws one foot from what they tell me, and can be used without the mast, just take it off. No need for chainsaw. No one could tell me the air draft but I suppose there are ways to find out if I can keep the mast up. May even learn to sail. How hard can it be? Just sit there and wait for the wind right?  

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17 Sailboat Types Explained: How To Recognize Them

Ever wondered what type of sailboat you're looking at? Identifying sailboats isn't hard, you just have to know what to look for. In this article, I'll help you.

Every time I'm around a large number of sailboats, I look around in awe (especially with the bigger ones). I recognize some, but with most of them, I'll have to ask the owner. When they answer, I try to hide my ignorance. The words don't make any sense!

So here's a complete list with pictures of the most common sailboat types today. For each of them, I'll explain exactly where the name comes from, and how you can recognize it easily.

So here's my list of popular sailboat types, explained:

Bermuda sloop, sailing hydrofoil, dutch barge, chinese junk, square-rigged tall ship, in conclusion, how to recognize any sailboat.

Before we get started, I wanted to quickly explain what you should look for when you try to identify a sailboat.

The type of sailboat is always determined by one of these four things:

• The type of hull
• The type of keel
• The number of masts
• And the type of sails and rig

The hull is the boat's body. There are basically three hull types: monohull, catamaran, and trimaran. Simply said: do I see one hull, two hulls (catamaran) or three hulls (trimaran)? Most sailboats are monohulls.

Next, there is the keel type. The keel is the underwater part of the hull. Mostly, you won't be able to see that, because it's underwater. So we'll leave that for now.

The sail plan

The last factor is the number of masts and the sail plan. The sail plan, simply put, is the number of sails, the type of sails, and how the sails are mounted to the masts (also called rigging ).

Sailboat are mostly named after the sail plan, but occasionally, a sail type is thrown in there as well.

So now we know what to pay attention to, let's go and check out some sailboats!

Dinghies are the smallest and most simple sailboats around.

They are your typical training sailboats. Small boats with an open hull, with just one mast and one sail. Perfect for learning the ways of the wind.

On average, they are between 6 and 20 ft long. Mostly sailed single-handed (solo). There's no special rigging, just the mainsail. The mainsail is commonly a Bermuda (triangular) mainsail. Dinghies have a simple rudder stick and no special equipment or rigging.

Dinghies are great for learning how to sail. The smaller the boat, the better you feel the impact of your trim and actions.

How to recognize a sailing dinghy:

• short (8ft)
• one Bermuda sail
• open hull design
• rudder stick

Common places to spot them: lakes, near docks

If you'd ask a kid to draw a sailboat, she'll most probably draw this one. The Bermuda Sloop is the most popular and most common sailboat type today. You'll definitely recognize this one.

How to recognize a Bermuda Sloop:

• triangular mainsail (called a Bermuda sail)
• a foresail (also called the jib)
• fore-and-aft rigged
• medium-sized (12 - 50 ft)

Fore-and-aft rigged just means "from front to back". This type of rigging helps to sail upwind.

Any sailboat with one mast and two sails could still be a sloop. Even if the sails are another shape or rigged in another way. For example, here's a gaff-rigged sloop (more on the gaff rig later):

If you want to learn all about sail rigs, check out my full Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types here. It has good infographics and explains it in more detail

The Bermuda sloop has a lot of advantages over other sailboat types (which is why it's so popular):

• the Bermuda rig is very maneuverable and pretty fast in almost all conditions
• it's really versatile
• you can sail it by yourself without any problems
• it's a simple setup

Common places to spot a sloop: everywhere. Smaller sloops are more common for inland waters, rivers, and lakes. Medium-sized and large sloops are very popular cruising boats.

Cutters have one mast but three or more sails. Most cutters are Bermuda rigged, which means they look a lot like sloops.

How to recognize a cutter:

• looks like a sloop
• two or more headsails instead of one
• commonly one mast
• sometimes an extra mast with mainsail

Cutters have more sail area, which makes them faster, but also harder to sail single-handed. There's also more strain on the mast and rigging.

Common places to spot a cutter: everywhere. Cutters are very popular for cruising.

They mostly have a Bermuda rig, which means triangular sails. But there are also gaff cutters and naval cutters, and some have two masts.

Here's an example of a two-masted naval cutter with an extra gaff mainsail and top gaff:

The Hydrofoil is a pretty new sailboat design. It's a racing sailboat with thin wing foils under the hull. These lift up the hull, out of the water, reducing the displacement to nearly zero. The foils create downforce and keep it from lifting off entirely.

This makes the hydrofoil extremely fast and also impressive.

The hydrofoil refers to the keel type. There are both monohull and multihull hydrofoils.

How to recognize a hydrofoil:

• it flies above the waterline and has small fins

Common places to spot a hydrofoil: at racing events

Famous catamaran: La Vagabonde from Sailing La Vagabonde

A catamaran is a type of cruising and racing multihull sailboat with two hulls. The hulls are always the same size.

Most catamarans have a standard Bermuda rig. The catamaran refers to the hull, so it can have any number of masts, sails, sail types and rig type.

How to recognize a catamaran:

• any boat with two hulls is called a catamaran

Common places to spot catamarans: coastal waters, The Caribbean, shallow reefs

The advantages of a catamaran: Catamarans heel less than monohulls and are more buoyant. Because of the double hull, they don't need as deep a keel to be stable. They have a smaller displacement, making them faster. They also have a very shallow draft. That's why catamarans are so popular in the Caribbean, where there's lots of shallow water.

Catamarans are nearly impossible to capsize:

"Compared with a monohull, a cruising catamaran sailboat has a high initial resistance to heeling and capsize—a fifty-footer requires four times the force to initiate a capsize than an equivalent monohull." Source: Wikipedia

How to recognize a trimaran:

• any boat with three hulls is called a trimaran

Trimarans have three hulls, so it's a multi-hull design. It's mostly a regular monohull with two smaller hulls or floaters on the sides. Some trimarans can be trailered by winching in the auxiliary hulls, like this:

This makes them very suitable for long-term cruising, but also for regular docking. This is great for crowded areas and small berths, like in the Mediterranean. It sure is more cost-effective than the catamaran (but you also don't have the extra storage and living space!).

Common places to spot Trimarans: mostly popular for long-term cruising, you'll find the trimaran in coastal areas.

Gaffer refers to gaff-rigged, which is the way the sails are rigged. A gaff rig is a rectangular sail with a top pole, or 'spar', which attaches it to the mast. This pole is called the 'gaff'. To hoist the mainsail, you hoist this top spar with a separate halyard. Most gaffers carry additional gaff topsails as well.

Gaff rigs are a bit less versatile than sloops. Because of the gaff, they can have a larger sail area. So they will perform better with downwind points of sail. Upwind, however, they handle less well.

How to recognize a gaffer:

• sail is rectangular
• mainsail has a top pole (or spar)

Since a gaffer refers to the rig type, and not the mast configuration or keel type, all sailboats with this kind of rigging can be called 'gaffers'.

Common places to spot a gaffer: Gaffers are popular inland sailboats. It's a more traditional rig, being used recreationally.

Schooners used to be extremely popular before sloops took over. Schooners are easy to sail but slower than sloops. They handle better than sloops in all comfortable (cruising) points of sail, except for upwind.

How to recognize a schooner:

• mostly two masts
• smaller mast in front
• taller mast in the back
• fore-and-aft rigged sails
• gaff-rigged mainsails (spar on top of the sail)

Common places to spot a schooner: coastal marinas, bays

How to recognize a ketch:

• medium-sized (30 ft and up)
• smaller mast in back
• taller mast in front
• both masts have a mainsail

The ketch refers to the sail plan (mast configuration and type of rig). Ketches actually handle really well. The back mast (mizzenmast) powers the hull, giving the skipper more control. Because of the extra mainsail, the ketch has shorter masts. This means less stress on masts and rigging, and less heel.

Common places to spot a ketch: larger marinas, coastal regions

How to recognize a yawl:

• main mast in front
• much smaller mast in the back
• back mast doesn't carry a mainsail

The aft mast is called a mizzenmast. Most ketches are gaff-rigged, so they have a spar at the top of the sail. They sometimes carry gaff topsails. They are harder to sail than sloops.

The yawl refers to the sail plan (mast configuration and type of rig).

Common places to spot a yawl: they are not as popular as sloops, and most yawls are vintage sailboat models. You'll find most being used as daysailers on lakes and in bays.

Dutch Barges are very traditional cargo ships for inland waters. My hometown is literally littered with a very well-known type of barge, the Skutsje. This is a Frisian design with leeboards.

Skutsjes don't have a keel but use leeboards for stability instead, which are the 'swords' or boards on the side of the hull.

How to recognize a Dutch Barge:

• most barges have one or two masts
• large, wooden masts
• leeboards (wooden wings on the side of the hull)
• mostly gaff-rigged sails (pole on top of the sail, attached to mast)
• a ducktail transom

The clipper is one of the latest sailboat designs before steam-powered vessels took over. The cutter has a large cargo area for transporting cargo. But they also needed to be fast to compete with steam vessels. It's a large, yet surprisingly fast sailboat model, and is known for its good handling.

This made them good for trade, especially transporting valuable goods like tea or spices.

How to recognize a Clipper:

• mostly three masts
• square-rigged sails
• narrow but long, steel hull

Common places to spot a clipper: inland waters, used as houseboats, but coastal waters as well. There are a lot of clippers on the Frisian Lakes and Waddenzee in The Netherlands (where I live).

This particular junk is Satu, from the Chesapeake Bay Area.

The Chinese Junk is an ancient type of sailboat. Junks were used to sail to Indonesia and India from the start of the Middle Ages onward (500 AD). The word junk supposedly comes from the Chinese word 'jung', meaning 'floating house'.

How to recognize a Chinese junk:

• medium-sized (30 - 50 ft)
• large, flat sails with full-length battens
• stern (back of the hull) opens up in a high deck
• mostly two masts (sometimes one)
• with two mainsails, sails are traditionally maroon
• lug-rigged sails

The junk has a large sail area. The full-length battens make sure the sails stay flat. It's one of the flattest sails around, which makes it good for downwind courses. This also comes at a cost: the junk doesn't sail as well upwind.

The cat rig is a sail plan with most commonly just one mast and one sail, the mainsail.

Most sailing dinghies are cats, but there are also larger boats with this type of sail plan. The picture above is a great example.

How to recognize a cat rig:

• smaller boats
• mostly one mast
• one sail per mast
• no standing rigging

Cat-rigged refers to the rigging, not the mast configuration or sail type. So you can have cats with a Bermuda sail (called a Bermuda Cat) or gaff-rigged sail (called a Gaff Cat), and so on. There are also Cat Ketches and Cat Schooners, for example. These have two masts.

The important thing to know is: cats have one sail per mast and no standing rigging .

Most typical place to spot Cats: lakes and inland waters

Famous brig: HMS Beagle (Charles Darwin's ship)

A brig was a very popular type of small warship of the U.S. navy during the 19th century. They were used in the American Revolution and other wars with the United Kingdom. They carry 10-18 guns and are relatively fast and maneuverable. They required less crew than a square-rigged ship.

How to recognize a brig:

• square-rigged foremast
• mainmast square-rigged or square-rigged and gaff-rigged

How to recognize a tall ship:

• three or four masts
• square sails with a pole across the top
• multiple square sails on each mast
• a lot of lines and rigging

Square-rigged ships, or tall ships, are what we think of when we think of pirate ships. Now, most pirate ships weren't actually tall ships, but they come from around the same period. They used to be built from wood, but more modern tall ships are nearly always steel.

Tall ships have three or four masts and square sails which are square-rigged. That means they are attached to the masts with yards.

We have the tall ship races every four years, where dozens of tall ships meet and race just offshore.

Most common place to spot Tall Ships: Museums, special events, open ocean

This is a bonus type since it is not very common anymore. As far as I know, there's only one left.

The Trabaccolo is a small cargo ship used in the Adriatic Sea. It has lug sails. A lug rig is a rectangular sail, but on a long pole or yard that runs fore-and-aft. It was a popular Venetian sailboat used for trade.

The name comes from the Italian word trabacca , which means tent, referring to the sails.

How to recognize a Trabaccolo:

• wide and short hull
• sails look like a tent

Most common place to spot Trabaccolo's: the Marine Museum of Cesenatico has a fully restored Trabaccolo.

So, there you have it. Now you know what to look for, and how to recognize the most common sailboat types easily. Next time you encounter a magnificent sailboat, you'll know what it's called - or where to find out quickly.

I loved this article. I had no idea there were so many kinds of sailboats.

i have a large sailing boat about 28ft. that im having a difficult time identifying. it was my fathers & unfortunately hes passed away now. any helpful information would be appreciated.

Jorge Eusali Castro Archbold

I find a saleboat boat but i can find the módem…os registré out off bru’x, and the saleboat name is TADCOZ, can you tell me who to go about this matter in getting info.thank con voz your time…

Leave a comment

You may also like, guide to understanding sail rig types (with pictures).

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

How Much Sailboats Cost On Average (380+ Prices Compared)

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Re-rigging without mast removal.

• Thread starter Screen Saver
• Start date Dec 18, 2023
• Tags mast and standing rigging rigging
• Hunter Owner Forums

Screen Saver

Rigging replacement, Hunter 49 B&R Fractional, no backstay: Some, perhaps most of you are driven to this by insurance company requirements, Im not, its more a case of due diligence and having it not come down. So if yours is great than 10 years old, how old is it ? I am looking to replace standing rigging without removing the mast, has anyone done this ?. I am interested in comments from anyone who has done this, or had this experience, whether it was a good or bad experience. Im also interested in anyone who has had there mast come down or sustained any damage during this process or subsequently as a result of it. In my case removing the mast will add a significant amount of work and subsequently cost. Im sure I’m not the only one whom has dedicated continuous cable runs up there mast, that can’t /shouldn’t be cut such as analog 12 core Radar cable, full heavy duty (15mm) VHF, AIS, Cell phone cables, all high quality continuous runs. Disconnecting and dropping these is not a 5 min job, in mast furling with continuous furling line, would need to be cut, etc etc.  

Standing rigging can be replaced with the mast up, however, it may not be a DIY job. Halyards are used to stabilize the mast and someone either climbs the mast and replaces on shroud at a time or goes up in one of those man lifts used to work on the upper stories of buildings.  

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

On my 35ft CAL, deck stepped mast head rig, I had the mast removed with the guidance of an experienced rigger. We were in a yard with a crane that picked the mast off the boat while near the breakwater. The rigger climbed the mast and set a strap 2/3rds up the mast this caused the mast to stay vertical when lifted. Once secure hanging from the crane, the standing shrouds/stays were released. The forestay and furler were released and bound to the mast. All the wires were undone a the units and snaked to beneath the mast. As the mast was raised off the base, the wires were hauled up their holes out of the boat from beneath the mast. Upon finish in the rerigging the procedure was reversed. The electrical cables were dropped through the mast base and attached to a new electrical block that was installed beneath the mast for this purpose. The radar and new VHF cables (uncut) were threaded in through the deck base and then routed through the boat to the hardware at the nav station. This was done to optimize performance. I know of a Catalina 36 owner who had the standing rigging replaced while the boat was at the dock near the riggers shop. They used the halyards to hold the mast in place while removing one wire at a time. Taking it to their shop building a new wire then taking it to the boat and installing it. This meant multiple climbs up/down the mast but the work was completed in about 3 days to the satisfaction of the owner. Just a couple of different approaches to a common problem.  

The time involved in going up/down the mast, if paying a rigger, may outweigh the benefit of keeping the mast in place. Your owner's manual may have rigging information. Ours requires that the diamonds be tensioned on the ground prior to hoisting the mast. For the long cable runs .... pulling them out with a pull string attached will make reinstallation a relatively simple manoeuvre. Can't wait for radar manufacturers to adopt a common ethernet standard .... then it's just a matter of having a CAT 6 coupler at the base of the mast.... A coupler in your coax (RG213?) represent about a 1db loss. That's not much considering 100ft of RG213 losses 2.6 db. If you have the cheaper RG58, you've already got 7db loss in 100ft. Your coax is the big db loss, not a coupler at the mast base. Line of sight and corrosion at the antenna connector is usually the LIMFAC for a sailboat's antenna system.  

As I recall the VHF cable is something like RG213, I remember it was about the size of my thumb and very stiff and the losses were way down compared to anything else and price was inversely proportional. It took a while to get it right because I can’t deal with heights, so doing the top end was task for someone else and I literally had to train the tech, show him on SWR Meter show him water ingress etc. The cell phone was the same deal and getting those connectors given there size is smaller than the cable, yep that to was a challenge, but it gave me 80k coverage on cell tower, and there is cisco wifi aerial(s) up on the spreaders. The radar is old, so might in fact dump it for a new Ethernet version if I’m forced to take the mast down. Most riggers don’t have a clue about the rig either, which is frustrating, it took nearly 3 years to get it anywhere near right. Even when the boat was delivered new it was wrong and riggers want to run when you tell them , it has prebend and furling main and no backstay, most didn’t know what a lose gauge was, then comes the mandrel for the in mast furller….. ah it just goes on. Actually this is not just about cost saving, because potentially it will be the same, but its about doing the whole job right and once. I used a Filipino in Philippines to do the diagonals. I explained do exactly what I say, take the measurements pictures I ask for and you will be paid 1 month salary for what should take 1 day. It took two days, but he did exactly that. Prebend, rake and tension was great and that’s two people one whom follows instructions and one whom thinks he knows but proves my measurement (me). I real professional should have no drama.  

LMR-400 Coax Cable for High-Performance RF Applications | Times Microwave Systems

B&G/Simrad and Garmin do use an ethernet protocol and connectors for data transmission and separate conductors for power. I know the B&G units have both data and power in one cable and I believe the Garmin have 2 cables, one data, one power. All of the electronics are located in the radar dome so there is no RF loss to be concerned about. While the connectors are standard RJ=45s the data is always proprietary.  

jssailem said: If your focus is low loss coax - strongest signal output, LMR400 cable should be considered. Click to expand

Don S/V ILLusion

marcham said: A coupler in your coax (RG213?) represent about a 1db loss. Click to expand

The B&R rig is a different beast than a typical bermuda rig. You can check this document starting on page 53. https://support.seldenmast.com/files/595-540-E.pdf You'll see that pre-bend is induced in the mast prior to stepping on the deck. The reverse diagonals are under considerable tension and you need mechanical advantage to bend the mast enough to attach these diagonals when properly sized. Halyards and turning blocks are sufficient mechanical advantage with the mast down on saw horses. I would think it would be more difficult with the mast stepped. The wires should be terminated in the ceiling of the cabin at the base of the mast. There should be a terminal block for lights and instruments along with a barrel connector to disconnect vhf.  

Yep I hear you. In my world its a bit different. Having replaced the diagonals probably about 4 years ago, I can tell you the prebend is pretty much set in mine now, and in fact I had considerable difficulty removing some of it, because it had too much. So inducing prebend in mine is not a problem when its up, and there is not a lot of load on them according to the loose gauge. And yep the standard electrical connection are terminated as you say, but as stated above I have a number that are not, and the Radar cant be cut. Im now a bit unsure about loses on the RF side given some of the comments here, however getting and maintaining that almost perfect connection if I chop my expensive RF cables is not liable to happen. Some of these very low wattage signals, like cell phone even a small loss has a very significant effect.  

I have a 1992 Hunter Passage 42 which has a B&R rig with a backstay and masthead jib. I had to remove and repair one of the upper spreaders and did this with the mast in place. I measured all turnbuckles clearences prior to releasing the shrouds and diamonds. The measurements allowed the prebend to be re-established since none of the cables was being changed. Although it's possible to replace all the cables with the mast insitu, as mentioned earlier, I don't think you'd get the prebend set up correctly unless it's off the boat.  

Jim_H42 said: Although it's possible to replace all the cables with the mast insitu, as mentioned earlier, I don't think you'd get the prebend set up correctly unless it's off the boat. Click to expand

Screen Saver said: Yea this may all become academic as so far the riggers I have approached in Sydney have refused. They will do the forestay but thats it. Sadly heights and me dont agree or I would do it myself, like most other things. However to your point above and you have said what some others have implied, Im not sure of the logic behind this and why one couldn't get the prebend right. I guess when the mast is new and straight, the first time its educed I could see some difficulties, but when its already there, and assuming its not all released at once, Im not sure I see the problem. When I replaced the diagonals it was only then when I took measurements before I started that I became aware the prebend was out, in my case nearly double that of the spec. After the diagonals were done, it took some time to in fact remove some of it and get back to within spec. Also obviously when you do it on the ground and then stand it up and begin to tension up the forestay etc, clearly this can change the prebend, resulting in a need to re-establish it. Click to expand

Yea agreed there is mental stress. However there is a lot less work. Plus the rigger/company doesnt have you over a barrel. Both antenna's are full length cables with no connections in the middle. The Radar defiantly is full length one piece mast to cockpit and it cant be anything else. There is terminal block in the roof of the master cabin in the wardrobe for sure, but it only has basics, Anchor light steaming light, navigates ( in my case I have LED Tri-light) a horn and thats about it. But its not just these, there are all the ropes as well, the continuous furling line, out haul etc, There is a good 2 days work getting all of this out, pulling mouse lines etc Some of the stories I have herd about people pulling masts out where the job quadrupled in price. Thye get to point where they now want to totally refurbish every block, rivet, slide, gear etc and once its out on their wharf your done. If was not so afraid of heights I would do it myself like everything else. Heights are my one fear sadly.  

Screen Saver said: The Radar defiantly is full length one piece mast to cockpit and it cant be anything else. Click to expand

Yea I was in IT, so what you're talking about is an Ethernet/digital radar, these can be joined because the signal is basically a digital or a computer network signal. It use between 4 and 6 wires and they can be cut and joined many ways. The connector you show if its not gold leafs, and some arent, then it will fail and be hard to find. If its gold leaf, it should last fine. That Radar you have would not have been standard. My hunter is 2008 so it has an analog RD424 which uses a cable like this Raymarine/Raytheon ANALOG RADAR CABLE - 14METERS f/M92652 92652-S RD424 - Max Marine Electronics If you zoom in on the picture your will see an eight-way connector in addition to the other 4 bigger wires. So total of 12. That in itself is not a problem,. However one of those thin wires you see which are about the size of a match is a coaxle analog data signal carries two wires one center core in a shield. So these wires are about 1/2 the size of a match including the covering. That signal is much lower than your Ethernet digital Data signal, which is why they shield it. These cables are made up to about 25m, no one will be cutting these and joining them. The cable would need to be diconnected from the radar, whihc of course can be done, along with the cell phone aerail at the top of the mast. The VHF one can be cut and have connectors, but thats not ideal either. Lights are already on a terminal block so no problem there. Windex is not but it could be. Now of course my doubled ended main sheet needs to be removed, my endless !! furling line needs to be cut, then respliced, topping lift, vang. halyards, HF aerial, mainsail, jib, etc etc. Yea quite honestly that is madness unless you know you have Maijor issues on the mast somewhere. Excluding a large swell from some big cruiser, or gails, I would almost bet that you could take of any one piece of wire (excluding the forestay) and the mast would stay standing. Even if you took a capshroud off, the D1 (half way down) would hold it up. Clearly you would not rely in that but masts tend to break around the first cross tree or above and boom goseneck. I have yet to find one example of a mast coming down as a result of doing it in place, one at a time. I'm sure its probably happened because their supporting lines came lose or they took them all off at once and tried to support it with lines.  

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a Gin Pole

How do you step the mast on your trailerable sailboat? With a gin pole? With the trailer winch? With the help of friends or family? With your fingers crossed? No single system works for every sailboat or for every skipper. If you’re new to mast stepping, you don’t like your current method, or you just want to simplify or speed up the process, this post is for you. I must warn you though, this is a long post, even for me. To make it as short as possible, I’ve included five YouTube videos that show how this system works. By the end of this post, you’ll know everything about how I step the mast on Summer Dance single-handed in minutes, even on the water.

I’ll describe two ways that I step the mast, including one way that doesn’t use a gin pole at all. Both are fast and mostly use the boat’s own rigging and very little extra gear.

I’ll also explain some topics that lead up to and follow mast stepping, like how I:

• Use a DIY telescoping mast crutch for easier stepping and secure trailering.
• Tie down the mast and rigging for trailering.
• Keep my mast in tune without having to loosen and re-tighten the shroud turnbuckles to step the mast.

What do you really need?

When I started trailering Summer Dance years ago, I researched a lot about mast stepping. The Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook is pretty brief on the subject.

Walk the mast aft and drop the mast foot into the mast step on top of the deck, keeping the mast in center line of boat, insert the pivot bolt and locking nut. One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to the forestay while another pushes up on the mast and walks from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach the forestay and forward lower shrouds.

Poorly written but pretty simple, huh? One crew member pulls on the forestay while another pushes on the mast. That’s how the mast was designed to be stepped and it works well if you’re young, strong, and there are two or more of you to do the job.

But what if you don’t normally have a second able crew member? What if you need to step the mast on the water? What if you want to lower the mast to go under a bridge? What if you or your crew have a physical impairment that prevents them from performing one of the tasks? That system may not work for you and you need an alternative. If you believe in the rule that you should have a backup for every critical part and system, then you also need a backup mast stepping plan even if you normally step the mast with the factory recommended method.

I’ve read about lots of different systems. Maybe you have too:

• Factory-built gin poles, braces, guy wires, and mast-ups
• DIY wooden gin poles with winches, bridles, and brace poles
• Blocks attached to the pulpit to reuse the trailer winch cable
• Electric winches on the trailer or in the tow vehicle
• Jumbo bungee cord connected to the forestay
• Assorted Rube Goldberg variations on all the above

They all struck me as overkill for the real problem. What do you really need once you have the mast bolted to the step? What do all of these system have in common? Some mechanical advantage to raise the mast and a way to keep it from swinging too far sideways until the shrouds tighten.

If you’ve read this blog for very long at all, you know that I’m really big on reusing or repurposing things for other uses. It’s something of a prerequisite to be a stingy sailor. If you’re lucky, it’s in your DNA and it comes easily to you. Being an armchair engineer qualifies too.

Let’s see — sailboat design is all about capturing, multiplying, and redirecting forces for mechanical advantage: the hull, keel, rudder, mast, sails, rigging, almost everything. What’s the most compact, portable piece of gear on a sailboat that creates mechanical advantage? The main sheet or the boom vang typically multiplies the force applied to it by three or four times. What are all gin poles in their most basic form? A big stick. Is there already a long, stiff, portable, stick onboard? The boom. Can we raise and lower the mast single-handed with the main sheet and the boom?

As it turns out, it’s really pretty easy to do. But it’s not very easy to describe in words, so rather than write an entire book about it, I’ve made a series of short videos that each show a different aspect of my mast stepping system. I’ll give you an overview of each aspect in the text below but to really get it, you should watch the videos.

Getting it to the water

Besides being simpler, one of the basic principles of this system is to make launching and retrieving the boat as quick as possible while also being safe. That starts with securing the mast and rigging for trailering. For me, it has to be secure enough to tow for a hundred miles over bumpy state highways and county backroads to my favorite cruising spots. This is in north Idaho, mind you, which is relatively remote compared to the Florida coast or southern California.

I use a combination of DIY mast supports, motorcycle straps, and inexpensive ball cords to secure the rig. The mast is supported on both ends and in the middle. This follows closely the Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook  recommendation.

Tie the mast and boom securely to the bow and stern pulpits. The spars should also be supported in the middle by the cabin top. Pad the mast at all contact points to prevent damage.

No tools or knot tying are needed for my system and any one of them works in seconds and stows easily either onboard or in my pickup.

Here’s a tour of the rig tied down just before I step the mast.

The previous video mentions my DIY mast stepper, also called a Mastup by a popular online Catalina parts retailer. I haven’t yet devoted a blog post to it but it was pretty easy to make. If you’re interested in a fabrication drawing and materials list, keep reading to the end of this post and a special offer.

I bought the steel myself from the cutoff pile at a local metal distributor. I took the metal and my drawing to a local welder who advertised on craigslist.com. I painted and assembled it myself. The total cost was half the price of the commercial version and in some ways, works even better. I especially like the D rings, which make it simple to secure the top of the mast stepper to the aft mooring cleats while trailering. It holds the mast very solid that way. And because the pintles are welded in place instead of adjustable, they can’t accidentally loosen and drop the mast.

Following is a close-up video of just the mast stepper. You can see it in action in the last two videos.

Setting up the boom as a gin pole

The  basic theory of a gin pole is to lift a heavy object below one end while it remains stationary at the other end. Support lines called guys position the lifting end over the object that is raised. A mast raising gin pole has one end stationary near the base of the mast, uses the forestay to support the lifting end, and uses a winch or a block and tackle to theoretically raise the bow of the sailboat to the end of the gin pole. In reality, the bow stays stationary and the entire gin pole system including its base (the mast) are raised towards the bow.

Most C-22 gin poles use one of two methods to attach the gin pole to the mast:

• A peg on one end of the pole that fits in a hole in the mast (the factory system for 2nd generation C-22s)
• A saddle on the end of the gin pole that fits around and is strapped to the mast (most DIY systems)

Neither of those gin poles serve any purpose after the mast is raised. They’re useless extra weight that takes extra storage space.

The system I use attaches using a small right angle bracket. I fabricated it out of a piece of scrap aluminum I already had. One side of the bracket is bolted through the mast step and the cabin top in front of the mast. The other side the bracket points upward and has a 1/4″ hole through it to act as a hinge for the gooseneck (stationary lower) end of the boom. If you’re a follower of this blog and have the password, you can find a scale drawing of this bracket on the Downloads page.

I connect the gooseneck fitting to the bracket with the same quick pin (drop cam or toggling bimini type) that I use to connect the gooseneck fitting to the mast slide while sailing. The pin is tethered to the boom with a stainless steel lanyard so it can’t get lost and it’s always near at hand.

I connect the forestay to a shackle on the top side of the (upper) end of the boom. On the opposite (bottom) side of the boom from the forestay, I connect the end of my main sheet tackle that doesn’t have the cam cleat. This is the same configuration as when the main sheet is attached for sailing. I connect the other end of the main sheet (that’s normally attached to the traveler car) to the stem plate where the forestay is normally attached.

To hold the boom vertical during raising, I sometimes use two pieces of pre-tied accessory cord. They connect to the sides of the boom with clips through the eye straps where my boom topping lift and jiffy reefing lines attach. The other ends of the cords have loops tied into them that I tie to the upper ends of the midship lifeline stanchions with girth (cow) hitches. The mast step is nearly in-line with the tops of the stanchions, so the cords rotate around the same pivot point as the mast and the boom.

If your sailboat doesn’t have the same style of gooseneck fitting as a Catalina 22 or you can’t use your boom for some other reason but you do have a spinnaker pole, you might be able to use it instead as this picture from a Westerly 21 owner shows. This picture also shows that a gin pole can be a great help with lifting the extra weight added by a furler.

That’s kind of hard to visualize, so here’s a short video that takes you on a tour of the setup.

This is a stickup with a boom!

After I rig the boom like shown above, the hard part is over. The rest is just pulling the main sheet with one hand while I steady the mast with my other hand. I also watch the stays and shrouds to be sure they don’t catch on anything as they raise off the deck.

With the main sheet cam cleat at the stem plate, I can easily stop raising the mast at any point, cleat the line with a sharp tug, and then clear snags or move to a better lifting position. Then I uncleat the main sheet at the stem plate first and hold light tension on the main sheet while I get into position to resume raising the mast.

The mast only needs to be held centered until it reaches about a 45° angle. Then the upper shrouds begin to tighten and they hold it centered the rest of the way up.

When the mast is vertical, I reconnect the forestay and forward lower shrouds using quick release levers . The mast is back in tune and requires no further adjustment. I disconnect the boom from the system and attach it in its normal place between the mast slide and the topping lift or backstay pendant. I disconnect the main sheet and attach it to the traveler car. All I need to put away are the two accessory cords if I used them, which I typically only do when it’s windy, when I’m setting up in a unlevel area, or on the water when its choppy.

Here’s a video showing the entire process completed in about 4 and a half leisurely minutes.

Single-handed speed stepping

In good conditions (light breeze, level area, or calm water), I skip over using the boom as a gin pole entirely and just use the main sheet to pull the mast up by the forestay. It saves several minutes and is nearly as easy to do but you should be fitter than average to attempt it. It’s the single-handed equivalent of having a crew member in front of the boat pull a line attached to the forestay. Bystanders seem to enjoy watching me raise the mast by myself in seconds.

Here’s what it looks like when it’s done on the water.

Back to the beginning

At the end of a road trip, I never look forward to tearing down  Summer Dance , pulling her out of the water, and tying her down for the ride home. I’ve had a great time but I’m tired and there’s many miles to go before I sleep. I don’t want to spend an hour lowering the mast and tying the rig down. I want it to be quick and simple.

Almost always, I lower the mast without using the boom as a gin pole even if I raised it that way. A gin pole is just not usually necessary so long as the mast comes down slow enough and lands in the crutch. You might not want to do it that way your first few times, so here’s what it looks like using the boom as a gin pole.

Then I tie it all down in a few minutes like shown in the first video.

Special offer for blog followers

Whew! That’s a lot of info. If you stuck with me through it, I really appreciate it. I want to thank you by offering not one, but two free bonuses to my blog followers.

The first is the launch checklist that I use to prepare and launch Summer Dance . It’s two pages of items that can help make sure you don’t forget something important for your next cruise — everything from an umbrella for the first mate while she waits for you to step the mast, to step-by-step instructions that you can have on deck for the gin pole method described above. Use it as a starting point to add and remove items to make your own checklist.

The second bonus is a dimensioned drawing and materials list for my DIY mast crutch that is described at the beginning of this post. Use it to build your own and save some money for something else.

If you’re already a subscriber to this blog, you can download both of the free bonuses from my Downloads page using the password that you received when you subscribed. If you’re not already a subscribed to this blog, sign up and you’ll join the thousands of other stingy sailors. Just enter your email address in the box at the bottom of this page and then click the Subscribe  button. You can unsubscribe at any time and I won’t share your address with anyone, ever.

I hope you’ve picked up some tips from this post that you can use to optimize your mast stepping system and spend more time on the water.

Would you like to be notified when I publish more posts like this? Enter your email address below to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. You will also receive occasional newsletters with exclusive info and deals only for followers and the password to the Downloads page. It’s free and you can unsubscribe at any time but almost nobody does!

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58 thoughts on “ how to step a mast single-handed with or without using the boom as a gin pole ”.

Love your vids on raising mast. Could you send a pic of quick release on forward shrouds and forstay and the pin you spoke of in vid.

Stay tuned here for a separate post on the quick releases and maintaining mast tune that’s coming soon!

I like the idea of using PVC tube & fence to make mast supports.

Just some scraps I had on hand; lightweight, strong, and they don’t look too ghetto.

Hey $tingy,

Thanks for another great post.

You mention the newsletter. I am definitely a long time blog follower, and look forward to every post, but I have never gotten a newsletter. Could you add me to whatever email list you use? I don’t want to miss any more.

Hi, CapnRehab

You weren’t receiving the newsletter initially because you’re a WordPress user so if you follow, my posts should show up in your Reader list instead of by email. But I added your email address to the newsletter recipient list back on May 11. The last newsletter went out on May 21 titled What’s Your Favorite DIY Project? Did you get that one? I’ll probably shoot out the next one at the end of the month. If you don’t get it, I don’t know what more I can do on my end.

Brilliant repurpose of mainsheet. I’ve struggled with this procedure for years, just man-handling it up there. Can’t wait to try this!

I hope it works for you. Let me know how it goes!

For mast raising and lowering, I have it a little easier with a 16ft boat, and can raise the mast single handed juat by manually lifting and walking forward in the cockpit and onto the keel case with the hatch slid forward, although I usually have my wife tension the forestay for some extra assurance.

I like your use of the “ball ties” for securing the rigging on the trailer. I usually use the halyards to tie everything up, but that takes more time than it should. I use some “sail ties” which are very similar to your ball ties to secure the sail on the boom and the boom is stowed inside the cabin. I think I will either get some more sail ties for securing the rigging on the trailer, or make up some velcro webbing straps. At the bow, my mast is tied down using my bowline and the DIY timber A frame mast crutch tied down at the rear with a rope tied to cleats on either side of the transom. The boat is held to the trailer using a stern ratchet strap and a turnbuckle on the bow, and the winch cable attached.

I really like the idea of using the boom as a gin pole. Brilliant. I wonder if you could post a picture of the L-shaped aluminum bracket that you fabricated and how it is attached to the boom? Making that may be the tricky part for me to get this thing. I could not really see a clear picture of it in your videos. Thanks!

I’ll add a close-up shot of it soon.

I added a close-up picture of the hinge bracket about midway through the post.

Excellent blog and report. I struggle with the mast raising and have an assistant. I will give your system a try. I finally understand the function of a gin pole and how to use it.

That’s awesome, Richie. I’m really glad it helped. In the case of a sailboat, it’s just a long, temporary lever. Aha moments are great!

Excellent report and diagram on the mast stepper. What would you think about using aluminum to build it instead of steel?

I think aluminum would work great so long as the wall thickness of the tubes is adequate. You wouldn’t need to be concerned about painting or rust. The critical area is where the outer tube overlaps the inner tube when the crutch is extended. Depending on how close the fit is and how much overlap, when you’re rolling the mast back to set it in the step, there can be considerable strain on that “joint.” A thin wall or soft aluminum might deform so make it beefy there.

Thanks for your comment, Michael!

I spoke to my fabricator friend about using aluminum and, him not knowing about the stepping process was most concerned about the hinges holding weight while trailering over the road. He also suggested using a beefier thickness if choosing aluminum just like your suggestion.

thanks for all you do!!!

The gudgeons can easily handle the weight so long as the pintles on the crutch are sturdy.

Send us a good picture of the final product and I’ll add it at the end of the post as an example!

Great post. Just started following your site. You have a lot of good projects on here. Where did you find such thin-walled square tubing for your mast stepper? All I can find is telescoping 1-3/4 & 1″ tubing. I don’t think I need that much strength or weight. Also, I receive the posts by e-mail but I never received the password for the download section. Thanks

There are a couple of industrial metal suppliers in my area that sell their cut-offs retail to the public by the pound. One of them also sells small quantities of standard sizes. I found all the sizes I needed with very little cutting. You definitely don’t need much strength and as little weight as possible. Aluminum would be even better if you can get it welded.

I’ll send you the password by email.

Thanks for your question.

I really like the simplicity of raising the mast without a gin pole. I use a gin pole now but prefer a simpler approach. How to you lower your mast? Do you use your mainsheet tackle when lowering? Thanks for the great video.. Jim Mathews

That’s right, Jim. I lower the mast by the same method but in reverse, which helps to remember the steps in both directions.

Thanks for your question!

Hi. I’m making the mast crutch and downloaded the drawing. How far down is the second hole in the 1″ tubing? ie. the hole where I would put the lock pin when the crutch is raised. Thanks.

That’s an excellent question, Jim, since it wasn’t shown on the drawing. I’ve since revised the drawing to show the hole 2″ up from the bottom of the inner tube.

The distance isn’t critical but depending on how tight the fit is between the inner and the outer tube, the hole might work better even farther up the inner tube. Try it at 2″ and if the top tube is too loose for you and it wobbles around, drill another hole farther up the inner tube, say at 4″ and try that. The mast will sit 2″ lower but it shouldn’t affect how you step the mast other than by making the crutch sturdier. Then you will have two holes to choose from. You can even drill more holes at different heights for different purposes.

Hi Thanks for the blog. Some pretty interesting ideas here, I’m borrowing some, especially related to the sails… Seeing your “system” to step the mast, I’m trying to adapt it to my boat, a ’82 French Rocca Super Chausey. The mast step has no pin to lock to the mast foot, it just falls into place between two pins that limit its longitudinal travel. Hence, nothing for the mast to pivot on. Any thoughts on how I could achieve that effect? Thanks.

If you have the tools and the ambition, you could replace your existing tabernacle with a custom made pivoting one. Find a piece of heavy gauge aluminum channel that you can cut into a shape similar to the C-22 tabernacle shown in the picture above. The channel should be just wide enough for the mast to sit into and the height a couple of inches. Cut slots in the sides for the through bolt to slide up and down. Cut the channel long enough and drill holes in the bottom of the channel to fit your existing deck bolts.

Then drill a hole through the base of the mast to accept the through bolt. It should be close to the bottom of the mast, 1/4″-1/2″ from the bottom. Angle the aft edge of the end of the mast so that it will rotate without binding in both directions. As it rotates backward during unstepping, the bottom end of the mast and the through bolt should ride up in the slots. Put a wingnut on the end of the through bolt for easy removal and you’ve got a pivoting mast.

If you don’t have the resources to make one yourself, maybe you can find a friend or a metal fabricator to help.

Good luck with your projects and thanks for your question! $tingy

When installing the gin pole hinge bracket you drill through the cabin roof. Have you experienced any water penetration through this hole?

I sealed the plate and hole perimeters with butyl tape, so no problems.

Wow! Love the post and videos!! So clear and easy to follow. I’m going to try this for my Columbia 8.3. I tried to follow you but got an error code. Can you manually add me, please?

Please try following again and if the error repeats, send me the text or a screenshot of the error so I can investigate.

My Venture 21 tabernacle and mast look like yours (sans the plate for your swivel blocks) and I have often wondered if there is wear on the trailing edge of the mast foot after repeated raising/lowering? Or does yours have some reinforcement?

Also, have you ever noticed the boom baby stays pulling too much on the stantions? I wonder if mounting the ropes at the base would be less apt to damage them if the mast were to go somewhat off-center (to the exrent the upper shrouds allowed)?

Love your site. I shared the 2017 DIY competition on Small Craft Advisor Magazine’s Facebook page and I noticed the 10 most popular projects link…most of which are on my to-do list!

There is a tiny bit of wear after 36 years but not enough to matter. Tying the baby stays to the stanchion bases would be more solid but then their pivot points would be too low. The reason that I tie them up at the top of the stanchions is so that the baby stays keep in relatively constant tension throughout the range of motion of the mast/boom. They’re almost perfectly aligned with the tabernacle. The stanchions aren’t in much danger because the boom doesn’t weight much and it can’t wander very far at all since it’s held in tension between the forestay (running aft) and the main sheet (running forward). They really just help to hold the boom vertical while you’re setting the system up until you begin to raise the mast. The mast can wander side to side some until its raised about halfway, then the upper shrouds come taught and keep it centered.

Thanks for the share!

Your site has been a tremendous help and inspiration for me and my 1988 Cat 22. My mast step has welded loops fore and aft. Can you suggest a structurally sound way to secure the boom to the loop for lifting/lowering?

Link showing the step: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/345_18/mast-step-c-22-cp-22brcp-18-wwelded-vang-loop.cfm

Hello, KGUNN

Since the loop is perpendicular to the line of the mast/boom rotation, it won’t work well using only off the shelf parts. I suggest you consider mounting a tang like the Garhauer BT-1 to the bottom of the mast instead. You can pin the boom to it similar to how I do it to my bracket. The boom will then rotate with the mast as it raises and lowers.

Great suggestion. Thanks!

Hmmm, this asks more questions for than answers. I don’t have the lower stays, nor do I have any of the attachment point on the mast that I can see. The thing is the boat is smaller 20′ vs 22′ I have no lifelines nor a rear rail, walking down the side of the boat would be a challange, never mind running lines while doing so. The mini stays have no place to attach to. Not sure how to go about raising the mast without help…even with this setup…

A smaller sailboat could indeed be trickier to step the mast single-handed since it has less rigging to aid the process. If you’re not committed to perfecting a single-handed technique, I’d suggest you consider a two-handed process with one crew member in the cockpit to steady the mast laterally while the second crew member pulls the mast up by the forestay or foresail halyard from the bow or on the ground in front of the bow. A mast crutch would also help in that case. Otherwise, you might be looking at extensive fabrications or commercial mast stepping hardware with a winch.

Where there’s a will, there’s a way!

How could your system be used with a furling 150 genoa on a Catalina 25?

Hello, Thomas

It could be used in a similar way on your C-25 with a couple of adjustments. First, your mast is longer and heavier than a C-22 so I would always use the boom as a gin pole. You’ll need the leverage for the extra weight, especially with the addition of the furler. Second and more importantly, you’d need to lift the furler as well as the mast somehow. I’d suggest using a main or spinnaker halyard to hold the mast and furler together. Wrap it around them from top to bottom before you lower the mast, then handle them as one unit until after you raise the mast again and unwrap the halyard to reconnect the forestay/furler. Use the jib halyard with its working end securely tied off instead of the forestay to connect the masthead to the boom/gin pole. The rest of the process would work the same.

Stay tuned because I’ll be publishing a post soon about choosing and using a furler with a trailerable sailboat.

Appreciate your reply Stingy. I need to carefully review your technique but it seems one’s boom would remain upward; although I’m sure you lower it when finished? Sorry for my ignorance. I’m also looking at the idea from the clever MacGregor 26 mast raising pole that uses a winch on the pole with baby stays with a special one to automatically keep the lowered furler up off the deck. I read about it on TropicalBoating ( https://www.tropicalboating.com/2010/04/the-perfect-solo-mast-raising-system-for-small-sailboats ). I’ll have a look at your mast crutch but I can’t use the gudgeons for the rudder as I’ll need to motor over to the Cave Run Lake (KY) boat launch for the haul out. Thanks!!

Winch-powered mast raising systems are a good choice for owners with impaired physical abilities. I might have to resort to one as I get older and am not able to do everything I once could. Beats giving up sailing!

One needs to attach a mast bail with the MacGregor 26 solo mast stepping system. I’m reluctant to drill into the mast though. This is my first cruiser (purchased in July) and I’ve much to learn from your blog. I was only introduced to sailing two years ago when I bought a Sunfish.

My C-25 teak companionway/hatchboards need replacement after 20 years, probably all standing rigging needs replacement even though it all looks fine at deck level (in the Lake continuously since ‘08), etc., etc. I pulled two through hull Airmar transducers out to check them and found only thin layer of algae on them – tells me the lake water has been very clean. The old KVH display is dead so I’ll switch it out (plugging holes with marine plastic and epoxy) with a new RayMarine i40.

I see that the boom is removed of course in your video. I also see the stress on the mast crutch essentially dictates one use the transom gudgeons for support. I had thought I could use 1” pipe secured to the stanchions but then there would not be enough telescoping height available either. You’ve devised a very clever approach- I’ve never remounted my boom so will need how I can attach it to the fore ring on the step plate.

You might consider modifying my crutch design so that the bottom end rests in the cockpit sole forward of the transom instead of on the rudder gudgeons. It would probably need additional support or to be fastened to the mast to keep it from falling over. Offset to one side a little, you should still be able to use your rudder to steer. That, or use the outboard tiller instead of the rudder to get to the ramp if you can. I do that sometimes.

Just what I have been looking for to give me some information to guide me in raising and lowering the mast for maintenance on my 26 foot Grampian without the expensive use of a crane this spring.

Hi, I like your idea of the mast raising system without a gin pole. Does your block & tackle include a ratchet or brake? Thanks!

Hello, Laura

Since I use my mainsheet tackle, no, but if you want to use a separate tackle, that would be a good idea.

Thanks, $tingy

Sure beats my system of using 2 sons to help out, they’re never around when you need them !

Thanks for the video on the no pole lift, that’s pretty much how I need to do it though I usually am working on the hard before getting a lift in.

I have tried raising the mast as you show in the video. I have the same quick release. But when I try to lift the mast with the forstay can’t do. I’m wondering maybe your mast is lighter or do I have the wrong set up to raise mast. I have the mast step which I can raise for a better angle…but it’s not happening.

Hello, Mark

Are you using a gin pole or trying to lift it only by the forestay? Either way, it takes quite a bit of strength to get the mast up that first few feet since you’re not pulling directly vertically on the masthead. If you’re not able to do it by yourself, you might need a helper for at least that part of the setup.

Dear sir My name is Mark Monteverdi. I have followed your web site for a while…and always turned out good. I have looked at the mast rising video countless times. I have the quick release for the shrouds. I’m guessing you are using a basic vang ? Well either I’m very weak or i have the vang set up incorrect or my mast is made of different material …when i go to raise my mast it will fall off to one side it just feels as though I’m pulling a truck up a hill. If you would be kind enough to send a pic of what ever type of pulley system i would greatly appreciate that very much. It’s hard to get any one to go sailing with me and that’s more just so i have some one to push and one work the winch. Thank you Mark

I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble. When raising or lowering my mast, it too will tend to swing to one side or the other until it’s about half way up and the upper shrouds tighten and hold it centered the rest of the way up. That’s why I always have at least one hand on the mast to keep it centered during the lower half of the lift. I use the standard C-22 main sheet tackle which has a 3:1 mechanical advantage. You could use a stronger tackle (try 4:1) if you need the additional lifting power. You can see the whole main sheet in the video in Quit Spending Setup Time on Turnbuckles .

Hope that helps, $tingy

Hi Stingy Sailor, First of all, thanks for all your tips, tricks, and videos. Your site is awesome and very helpful! I have a C-25 with swing keel so most of all your tips are applicable, very nice, and handy. I really like your mast securing device located at the bow for trailering; easy and simple. I was wondering if you do have the drawings available for it so I could use it to build my own? Thanks! Alex

I did not make a fabrication drawing for the pulpit saddle because of the complex angles of the railing cutouts. Most readers wouldn’t be able to cut them accurate enough, so it’s a trial and error fit. Lay your material centered across the top of the pulpit, trace the railing edges onto the underside of the material, then cut a little at a time until the saddle sits down securely over the rails. Do the same with the mast on top of your material and you’re done.

Good morning, what a beautiful boat you have there ! that is an ingenious way to raise a mast,nice work ! I am curious about what the black,plastic/rubber item is that looks like it’s attached to the stern rail by the mast crutch @ 2:45 of the first video Please respond because my curiosity is killing me because I don’t get it. Thanks, Mick

You can read all about it in Add a Solar-Powered Flood Light in Your Cockpit .

Hi! I just subscribed to your blog, and I’d like the instructions for building a mast crutch like yours. Wasn’t sure whether that would be sent out automatically, or whether I needed to specifically ask for them. Thanks!

Lenny, You can find a dimensioned drawing of the mast crutch on my Downloads page if you’re a subscriber. The password to open that page was sent to you when you subscribed. $tingy

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Sailboat Mast: Everything You Need To Know

Anyone who loves sails and boating needs to know their sailing boat from the inside out. If you are new to the sport, then you are probably wondering about things like a sailboat mast and everything around it.

In this article, we have everything you need to know about a sailboat mast, like what it is, its different types, as well as the material it is made of.

All you have to do is keep reading below to find it all out!

What Is A Sailboat Mast?

A sailboat mast is a tall pole that is attached to the deck. It helps secure the sail’s length to the boat and upholds the sail’s structure.

A sailboat mast is the most defining characteristic of a sailboat, helping keep the sail in place. What’s amazing about it is that it can even be taller than the vessel’s length!

Although conventional sailboats use wood, the majority of the newer sailboat masts are constructed of aluminum. The kind of sailboat mast a vessel has depends on the kind of sail plan supported.

What Are The Parts Of A Sailboat Mast?

The sailing mast is essentially a pole that cannot operate effectively without certain critical components.

Moving from the deck to the rest of the sailboat, we can first see the mast boot, which prevents the water from draining down the mast and flooding the cabin.

The stays are the long cords hooked up on each side of the mast, and they hold the mast up off the ground under massive force.

A gooseneck pipe fitting joins the boom to the mast. The sail is raised and lowered using halyard lines that go to the mast’s highest point.

Types Of Sailboat Masts

Rigs with one mast.

Many people that are not aware of the modern sailboat design envision single-mast sailboats.

The reason why this type of sailboat is so widely known is that these masts are low-cost to construct and fairly simple to operate alone.

Sloops, cutters, and catboats are among the most popular rigs with only one mast.

Sloop Masts

Nowadays, sloop rig vessels are the most popular type of sailing boat. Sloops typically have only one mast positioned somewhere on the front third or the middle of the deck, even though some boat models might vary a bit.

A sloop mast is equipped with a big mainsail and a jib sail (see also ‘ Why Are Sails Made In A Triangular Shape? ‘). A Bermuda-rigged sloop has only one towering mast and a triangle-shaped sail. Other not-so-popular gaff-rigged sloops have a significantly smaller mast and bigger 4-point mainsails.

Catboat Masts

Catboats are distinctive New England boats that have a forward-mounted standard mast and a long boom. A catboat, unlike a sloop-rigged boat, is only equipped with one sail.

It is also typically mounted (more or less) right in front of the boat, and it is commonly short and relatively thick.

Catboats are frequently gaff-rigged. In a single-mast design, gaff-rigged sail designs (see also ‘ The Definition And History Of The Lateen (Triangular) Sail ‘) succeed in making the most out of short masts and are relatively simple to maneuver.

The mast of gaff-rigged catboats is shorter than that of a Bermuda-rigged boat of comparable size, but it is typically taller than that of comparable gaff-rigged crafts.

Cutter Mast

A cutter-rigged sailboat has only one towering mast and several headsails, which is why it can be mistaken for sloops when seen from afar.

However, because cutters use numerous headsails rather than one standard jib (see also ‘ Everything You Need To Know About Sailboat Jibs ‘), their masts are typically taller than those of comparable-sized sloops.

In several places, a gaff-rigged cutter is far more usual than a gaff-rigged sloop. Even at times when its sails are folded, a cutter can be distinguished from a sloop.

This is due to the fact that cutters frequently have a protracted bowsprit and two front stays; the forestay and the jib stay.

Rigs With Multiple Masts

Multi-mast sailboats (see also ‘ Small Sailboats: What Are They Called? ‘) are not as popular as single-mast sailboats. That is why the design and structure of a multi-mast boat usually make it classier and more navigable.

A multi-mast boat provides more than simply great looks. It also provides speed and efficient control for skilled seamen.

Most of these boats have two masts, which seem to be frequently smaller than the masts on comparable-sized single-mast crafts. Yawl, ketch, as well as schooner rigs, are among the most popular types.

Yawls are sturdy multi-mast boats whose length ranges from 20 to more than 50 ft. A yawl has a lengthy forward main mast and a small mizzen mast at the back of the vessel. This type is also frequently gaff-rigged and was previously used as a utility boat.

A yawl-rigged boat can also self-steer by using the mizzen mast and sail. The yawl can be distinguished from many other double-mast vessels by its short mizzen mast, which is frequently half the size of the main mast.

Furthermore, the mizzen mast is located toward the back of the rudder post.

Ketch Masts

Ketch masts can be mistaken for yawls with a quick look. However, ketch masts are equipped with two masts of comparable size and a significantly bigger mizzen mast. A ketch boat’s mizzen mast is located at the front of the rudder post.

Ketch-rigged vessels are frequently gaff-rigged, with topsails on each one of their masts. Triangle-shaped sailplanes on some ketch-rigged vessels prevent the necessity for a topsail.

Ketch masts, much like the yawl ones, have a headsail, a mainsail, and a mizzen sail that are similar in size to the mainsail. Finally, a ketch-rigged vessel can sail while handling more than one rear sail.

Schooner Masts

Schooners are some of the most beautiful multi-mast sailboats. They are clearly more similar to ketches than yawls. However, if you closely look at a schooner, you will see that it will feature a smaller foremast and a longer (or nearly equal-sized) mast behind it.

Schooner masts are large and heavy, but they are generally shorter than single-mast vessels of comparable size.

This is due to the fact that double-masted vessels share the sail plan over 2 masts and do not require the additional length to compensate for the reduced sail space.

Finally, they are typically gaff-rigged, with topsails and topmasts that expand the mast’s length.

Masts Of Tall Ships

Tall ships are those traditional large cruising ships that ruled the seas well before age of steam. Renowned ships with this massive and intricate rig setup include the U.S.S Constitution as well as the H.M.S. Victory.

Tall ships have 3 or more massive masts that are frequently constructed using big tree trunks. Tall ships with 5 or more masts are quite common too.

Tall ships typically are as long as 100 feet or more, since the size and sophistication of these square-rigged vessels render them only useful at scale.

Tall ships have main masts, foremasts, mizzen masts, and gaff-rigged jigger masts at the back of their mizzen masts.

Mast Materials For Sailboats

The masts of sailboats (see also ‘ Two-Mast Sailboat Types ‘) are typically constructed of aluminum or other specific types of wood. Until the 1950s, almost all sailboat masts were constructed of wood.

That began changing around the time that fiberglass vessels rose to fame, with aluminum being now the most used mast material.

Aluminum Masts For Sailboats

Aluminum has become the most popular modern mast material. Aluminum masts are lighter in weight, hollow, and simple to produce. Such reasonably priced masts efficiently withstand seawater. These masts are also heavy for their size.

If there is one drawback to this type of mast that would be galvanic corrosion, which happens extremely quickly once seawater is in contact with aluminum and another metal, like steel and copper.

So, in types like the Bermuda-rigged sloop which are frequently made with aluminum, that is an issue.

Wooden Masts For Sailboats

The typical material for sailboat masts is wood, which is still employed for many specially designed boats nowadays.

Wood masts are big and bulky, yet very sturdy, and proper maintenance can guarantee their lengthy (over 100 years!) lifespan. They are also prevalent on gaff-rigged vessels because wood is best suited for short masts.

The Fir family provides the most popular mast wood. Although Douglas Fir is widely used, regional models (such as British, Columbian, and Yellow Fir) are also ideal.

Several sailboats, especially the tall ships, have masts made of pine and sometimes redwood. Other cedar species like the Port Orford or the Oregon cedar, can also be used for masts and spars.

Carbon Fiber Masts For Sailboats

Carbon fiber masts are a relatively new addition to the boatbuilding industry, and they have a few perks over the wood and aluminum ones.

First of all, carbon fiber is both strong and light, making it perfect for sailboats designed for races and which typically have tall masts. The best top-quality carbon fiber masts in the business are used by ships competing in America’s Cup races.

Maintenance Of Masts

It is critical to maintaining the sailboat masts and all of their associated hardware. Masts’ stays, lines, and halyards must be regularly checked, modified, and replaced on a regular basis. Masts made of wood must be lacquered and inspected for rot.

Masts made of aluminum do not typically require regular checks and maintenance, but any indications of a corrosive environment should be acted upon right away.

Build a clear maintenance schedule with your regional boat repairman or boating specialist. Keep in mind that preventative maintenance is always less expensive and simpler than repair work.

Choosing The Right Mast

For those who own a production boat, the options will be determined by the model and manufacturer.

The important factors to keep in mind for one-off boats without a designer sail plan are:

• the masts step’s features
• the length and displacement of the boat
• the addition of backstays and running backstays
• the quantity and placement of chainplates

If the mast is on a step on deck rather than on the structural beam, an image of the step may be useful to the mast maker.

For those who frequently take part in races, a carbon mast will save them from the extra weight and enhance their performance.

The Bottom Line

We hope that this article was helpful in learning more about a sailboat mast, the different types of mast you can see on vessels, as well as the materials they are made of, and their maintenance requirements.

Masts play a vital role in holding the boats in place, allowing people to keep on sailing to their dream destination, and they are also an eye-catching element of sailboats thanks to their vertical form and their length that often surpasses that of the sailboat itself.

Depending on the use of the boat, you will get a different type of mast, and the material it will be made of, its size, height, and weight, will guarantee the best sailing experience!

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 20-11-2022, 13:57   Boat: Hirondelle 23 catamaran 1994 on a 23 ft Hirondelle with an aero-rig. The is currently resting on the ground. A heavy 'Yard' can be separated from the . I used an 'tube mass' calculator on the and approximated the weight of the alone at 100lbs. The mast is stepped on the floor. I want to remove the mast by pulling it out through the cabin-top . Using four friends I plan to: (1) it out slowly through the top with straps, walk it to the side of the and lower it vertically to the ground. (2) Then, tip it, and lower it horizontally to the ground while two friends control the descent with two telescoping painters poles strapped on at ~24 ft. 1. Does the mast weight sound right? This calculation seems very low. ? (remember, no crane) 20-11-2022, 14:43   Boat: 1985 Ericson 32-3 it is made of. Keeping it vertical from the bottom would be really hard. If the top starts moving, the momentum and leverage will become a real problem real fast. Rather than 2 with painters poles, I'l want at least 3 people guiding it the entire time. Personally I'd make a wooden rig on the to it and provide a lift and controlled pivot point above the . Bring the top down to the ground, then lower the base. 20-11-2022, 15:01   assumes that you have an , no or and bugger all in the way of ballast. As to your specific questions, 1. I doubt that the spar is 100lbs.... but having not seen the spar, it’s possible. 2. Yes but not with 2 painters poles on a spear rig 3. Get 4 really big guys.... and have a backup plan if the initial plan fails 4. Tip er on the side and walk it out slowly. What exactly is a painters pole? I’m sure the sailer guys will have better for you, this is a routine task for them. Do no harm, good luck. 20-11-2022, 15:11   Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar , using our pole as a "crane" and a combination of halyards to do the hoisting. Another time we used two , one on each side of a 35 foot , to step her mast. (The other boat was Bernard's Joshua). Either way you have control of the mast and can maneuver it around safely and slowly. Jim 20-11-2022, 15:19   Boat: 1979 Bristol 35.5 CB . Hard to heel over. And nearly every trailersailer has a deck stepped mast... for this reason. 20-11-2022, 15:21   Boat: 1979 Bristol 35.5 CB 20-11-2022, 15:45   “bucket truck rental” and for little $ rent a truck with a hydraulic crane. Most of these have a capacity of 500 or 600 pounds and can lift the mast out of the boat without all of the attendant dangers mentioned above thread. Tie on to the mast above the CG and you’re in control of the mast, instead of the other way around. 20-11-2022, 16:05   Boat: Hirondelle 23 catamaran 1994 on the 'hard', so no heeling, rafting, or bridge ideas are possible. (2) A 'painters pole' is a telescoping pole, I can strap on 3 halfway up the mast. (3 poles it is Checkswrecks, in Post 2). (3) Great idea Doug R (Post 7) I will look into a bucket truck, if it can handle the weight. (4) Also in Post2: "a wooden rig on the to it and provide a lift and controlled pivot point" Agreed, in combination with Doug R's bucket truck or, one of those 'scissors jack lifts' with some kind of pivoting wooden apparatus will be much safer. Great feedback so far. Others? 20-11-2022, 16:54   hire , usually a weight of 100kg is within reason on any one of those ladders if the tripod is correctly lashed together. I often use a tripod to lift engines out from below deck, (I avoid using booms and masts to do this. ) 20-11-2022, 18:20   Boat: Beneteau 432, C&C Landfall 42, Roberts Offshore 38 talking, not me, the sailor. The weight of the mast is not the issue, it's the length. Don't forget to factor in the weight of all the , probably another 100 lbs on top of the mast weight. The best way to go about this, is to build a simple A-frame, that can be positioned adjacent, but just ahead of the mast. The purpose of the A-frame is not to just to take the mast out, but also to replace it. The A-frame needs to be as high as about 6' above the spreaders, and can be position on deck or the cabin house, and the peak needs to be fitted with a block and line and the A-frame needs to be braced, once in position. You can use , line, etc, to tie it fore an aft so that it is pretty rigid and won't fall over. As the mast is not heavy, some 2x6's spliced together should do the trick to make an A-frame. Use a to pull the A-frame up. Tie the halyard to the A-frame with a loose fitting loop. Once the A-frame is in position. you should be able to loosen the halyard to allow the loop to slide down. Take the bitter end of the line coming from the peak of the A-frame, and make a loop around the mast. Pull this loop, until it comes to rest under the spreaders. I'm assuming a spreader rig here. Then undue all the shrouds and stays. Using the block and line arrangement, pull the mast up so that it exits the deck and gives you 6" or so of clear space between bottom of mast and top of deck. Seeing as you'll be dealing with 200 lbs or more, some additional hands on the line would come in handy. If this is a concern, use a line long enough that you can lead it to a , and it up. Once up, slack of the line, I trust you know how to do this slowly. Now you will need one person holding the foot of the mast and walking forward with it, while another person(s) starts to lower the mast. Co-ordination will be required. Lower the mast as the same speed the mast can be walked forward. With the loop at the spreaders, the weight of the mast will be more or less equal around this fulcrum point so should not be overly unwieldy. By the time, the foot of the mast is at the bow, the mast should be more or less level. Tie off the mast, at the bow and stern pulpits, so you can undo all the . Once all the rigging is off, you ( with friends) shoud be able to walk the mast of the boat. Leave the A-frame up, as you'll need it to put the mast bask. Trust that this gives you some guidance. As a footnote, there are rental agencies, that might be able to provide you with some or other mini-crane or lift to serve the same purpose as the A-frame. 20-11-2022, 18:37   Boat: '86 MacGregor 25 , something like this is the right answer. If your support structure supports the mast at or above it’s center of gravity (34 ft mast, so probably about 17 ft up), that takes out 90% of the risk of disaster. 20-11-2022, 18:42   Boat: Jon Sayer 1-off 46 ft fract rig sloop strip plank in W Red Cedar 20-11-2022, 18:51   Boat: Sabre 402 mast on our Soling with just one or two people -- but it was deck stepped. One person's job was to make sure the butt stayed in the step, while the other person walked it down. A third person could control a halyard run through an eye on the bow if they were available. On a Hirondelle, getting the butt of the mast up on the cabintop will be quite precarious - it is really up there. Getting the butt down to the ground will be even more fraught. A bucket truck or something like it (know any firefighters?) would be a much better approach. It would take less than five minutes. 20-11-2022, 19:58   Boat: Tartan 3800 sailors, one 24' and one 26', and lowered and raised masts multiple times with them. The masts were both deck stepped with hinges and with some amount of thought given by the original designers and builders to raising and lowering the mast in a controlled way. 100 pounds sounds about right. The mast on my 26 wasn't much more from that. I could carry it on my shoulder, with effort. That said, it is my view that between the length and weight you are just beyond the point where you can reasonably muscle the mast down even with lots of good help. You need some kind of trustworthy support at or near the center of the spar. You could, for example, set up a 16' (or better, 20') piece of 4x4 (or other dimensional lumber) on deck and guy it in place, with a block at top, and put a loop around the mast and through the block to maintain control. You can screw a 1'x1' piece of to the bottom of the 4x4, and put a piece of rubber non-slip rug pad between it and the deck. Or instead of you can use mast, which is available in 5' and 10' sections with swaged ends that fit into the next session. Or 20'/21' pieces of pipe if they are available where you are. Whatever the materials, that's your gin pole. Use the gin pole to control the top of the mast, not necessarily to lift it. You can have your four muscular guys lift it, as long as you have something to control the top so it won't tip. Then one way or another you can lower it under control, though some combination of walking the foot of the mast aft or over the side, and carefully lowering the line from the gin pole around the top. Most rental bucket trucks aren't set up for hoisting, if you go this be aware of the dangers. It is very easy to be thrown out of the bucket when putting lifting force on some object and having a break or come loose leading to a sort of catapult effect. It is also easy to tip over the truck. There have been fatalities. 20-11-2022, 23:13   Boat: Schionning Waterline 1480 person on each line, spaced at roughly 120° seperation to each other, they can follow the people with the base and can lower the top once the foot is on the ground and secured from sliding or kicking. But whatever you do....film it 🙂 Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post xxxxx Monohull Sailboats 49 25-02-2024 04:20 Chotu General Sailing Forum 115 03-11-2021 16:07 svlamorocha Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 5 05-03-2015 12:32 unbusted67 Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 6 24-10-2014 09:03 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Chicago to Mackinac sailboat race: Storm snaps masts, tosses sailor into Lake Michigan A fast-moving summer storm Saturday night on Lake Michigan left carnage in its path after three huge sailboats snapped masts and a fourth boat had to rescue a man after he fell overboard, all in the middle of the night under total darkness during the first day of the Chicago to Mackinac race . “It was about 11:30 Eastern Time and we outpaced a couple storms. The team was getting ready … when a squall hit us. The wind picked up from about 18 knots to over 30 knots and shifted 80 degrees,” Skip Dieball, 53, of Wilmette, Illinois, a tactician racing on the 52-foot Usual Suspects, said on Sunday. “Sometimes in the daytime, you can see some of the shifts coming, the wind pattern on the water. But it was so dark we couldn’t see anything. We told each other we would prepare early. We were, and it just came really fast.” Disaster was averted after Madcap, a Santa Cruz 52 owned and skippered by John Hoskins, responded to a man overboard report from Callisto, a J/125 owned and skippered by Jim Murray. Both boats resumed racing the 333-statute-mile (289-nautical-mile) race without injury. In addition to Usual Suspects, owned by Eric Wynsma, masts broke on the 65-foot Sagamore owned by Laura and Tone Martin, along with the 45-foot Sapphire, owned by Robert Radway. No injuries were reported, according to Laura Muma, communications director for the Chicago to Mackinac race. Despite being on high alert to take down sails, the demasting events were intense. ‘Loud as the loudest thunder’ As soon as the mast snapped, Dieball said the crew started doing a head count to be certain all 13 sailors were still onboard. The rig could have come down on the crew if they had been in their normal stations, but they were scattered. While the mast “broke violently,” Dieball said, “it did not come down violently.” The race boat, with its custom carbon fiber mast, strong and light but brittle, is designed for high-performance racing and often used in America’s Cup races. When the mast broke, it sounded like a “crack of thunder” immediately overhead, Dieball said. “It’s as loud as the loudest thunder.” When the mast settled, the crew had to rapidly assess next steps. The biggest fear is that the broken mast will bang against the boat and puncture a hole, Dieball said. A mast on a boat that size can be 60 or 70 feet tall, he said. “Part of your safety equipment is having cutting devices that get the mast away from the boat. The mast had broken in three different spots and it was time to start cutting things away,” Dieball said. “Carbon fiber, in many ways, is sharper than steel. We had to make sure no one was in a spot where one of the pieces would actually cut them.” So sailors took out cutting tools and knives they’re required to carry as part of the racing protocol — and sliced away rigging as fast as possible, letting material sink into the water. ‘Survival mode’ Skipper Eric Wynsma, a real estate developer from Grand Rapids, had three of his grown kids racing, too. This was his 25th Chicago to Mackinac race. “We were just in survival mode,” Dieball said, cutting away for about 30 minutes. “After the (storm) cell went through, the wind died off. So it wasn’t like we were battling elements. We were into the race about nine hours, finishing about a third of the course, and we returned to Muskegon.” After stabilizing the situation, the Usual Suspects crew contacted the U.S. Coast Guard and reported debris in the water. The race boat didn’t need assistance once the rigging was cut away, Dieball said. They made certain nothing was wrapped around the propeller and Usual Suspects spent the next three hours motoring back, arriving about 5 a.m. No one was freaking out, Dieball said. “It was all business.” The costly damage prevents Usual Suspects from racing the Bayview Mackinac race from Port Huron to Mackinac, which starts Saturday. Fast Tango fights DeTour Tim Prophit , of St. Clair Shores, owner and skipper of the 40-foot Fast Tango, didn’t get slammed by the storm, but his nine-member crew prepared by making sail changes and reefing the main sail for better control. “All of a sudden, the waves felt different, a different pattern, a different height. And the temps dropped,” he said Sunday while racing. “We were paying very close attention to the weather.” Fast Tango won its class and placed second overall in the Chicago to Mackinac race last year, and was the overall winner in the Port Huron to Mackinac race. This year, Fast Tango is battling the 34-foot DeTour, owned by Chuck Stormes, of Grosse Pointe Farms, no stranger to winning class and overall trophies. Christy Storms said early Sunday afternoon she couldn’t look at the tracker to see how her husband was doing. It made her crazy. She didn’t know there had been a storm, she said, thank God, or she would have been worried sick. “This is the first year I’ve been trying to not stalk him,” she said. “It’s tough looking every minute. It just makes me crazy.” Family members are known to sleep with their phones under their pillows, call and text each other every hour through the night until the race is finished.In years past, Christy Storms said, “it was like crack. It just make me so anxious.” So, she went online, noticed he was doing great, took a snapshot of the tracker, put her phone down and went to bed with their 11-year-old dog Striker. Early Monday, Prophit confirmed that Fast Tango won first in class against 11 competitors. They crossed the finish line in 41 hours, 59 minutes, 47 seconds. Chaos on other boats, too Following the storm, 15- to 20-knot southerly winds continued to propel the 247-boat fleet north, Muma said in the race update. While mast loss made headlines with sailing reporters, other boats had serious issues that went unreported. And they kept going, hoping for the best. Mark DenUyl, of Marysville, Michigan, owner and skipper of the 34.5-foot Good Lookin’, watched his carbon fiber bowsprit snap in half during the high winds right about 11:30 p.m. Saturday. Now it’s held together with electrical tape and sail tape. Crew member Brennan Churchill, 22, texted his dad at home in Kimball, Michigan, with an update on the damaged equipment used to extend the sail, so it captures more wind. “He knew better than to tell his mother,” Tracy Heany Churchill said Sunday. “He knows I go into freakout mode.” Ron Churchill always sails with his son, who won his first Mackinac race at age 15, but Ron couldn’t leave work as a senior operations manager for a natural gas storage facility to do both the Chicago and Port Huron races to Mackinac. “I feel like I’m lost right now. I just feel like I’m supposed to be there,” Ron Churchill said Sunday. Brennan Churchill described the boat tipping so far to one side that the crew was in waist-deep water, his father said. “Everybody stayed on the boat. Water was washing over them.” The sudden gust of wind created such force that it likely flexed and snapped, he said. As a result of the damage, the crew held steady until daylight to try and figure out what to do, Churchill said. “They did a good job with just staying composed and keeping the boat moving well.” On Monday morning, Good Lookin’ crossed the finish line in third in class against a dozen other J/105 boats despite damage to critical equipment. Cara DenUyl and her 19-year-old daughter, Riley, woke up at 5:30 a.m. Monday to watch online the Good Lookin’ finish. “It was a nail-biter. It was close between second and third. They were in second place at 2 a.m. Sunday, when that storm hit. Then they fell back all the way to seventh place. At the time, we didn’t know the storm had hit. Somehow they got everything fixed enough to keep going, thankfully. I feel relief that they made the podium.” ‘Breathtaking’ speed With storms come great wind. Or, in sailor speak, great air. Winn Soldani, race chair of the Chicago to Mackinac race, said this weekend’s storms brought “epic” conditions that weather models predicted, which is important for safety. “We’re watching boats going 20 knots, or about 23 mph, and it’s breathtaking,” Soldani told Shifting Gears from the finish line near the Mission Point hotel on Mackinac Island on Sunday. “When the squalls hit, the wind changed direction very rapidly, from out of the south to out of the west, at 33 to 35 mph,” he said. “Some of these sails are the size of tennis courts. They’re huge. So this changes pressure on the mast.” That’s what causes masts to snap, Soldani said. Strict safety protocols protect the 2,200 sailors racing this year, and that’s why they’re required to wear special tracking devices on their bodies at all times. Storm winds create record-setting conditions As a result of the strong winds, this race broke the speed record. The 80-foot Maverick finished in 22 hours, 24 minutes, 23 seconds, breaking a record set 22 years ago by 66 minutes, 11 seconds.  Sanford Burris, of Kirtland, Ohio, sailed with his sons and friends on the carbon fiber Andrews 80 they have spent the past three years upgrading, according to Muma. The 20-person crew included Rodney Keenan, founder of Evolution Sails. “The team celebrated briefly as the Maverick team crossed the race to Mackinac finish line between Mackinac Island and the Round Island lighthouse … and then kept on sailing,” said the Chicago to Mackinac news release. Maverick is one of 25 sailboats registered for this year’s “Super Mac” race, a combination of the Chicago Mackinac and the Bayview Mackinac races, which means they will continue into Lake Huron, heading south to Port Huron, for a total of 565 statute miles (495 nautical miles). More: Star Line Mackinac Island Ferry Co. sells to Florida billionaire Phoebe Wall Howard, a Free Press auto reporter for nearly seven years, now writes a column on car culture, consumer trends and life that will appear periodically on  Freep.com  and in print. Those columns and others will appear on her Substack at  https://phoebewallhoward.substack.com/about  Contact her at [email protected]. Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search All Topics Sailing Skills & Seamanship Seamanship & Navigation SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! Single Handed Mast Stepping without a Crane Add to quote I am curious to hear some thoughts, tricks and tips with regards to stepping and unstepping a mast on a small boat (Less than 25 feet) without a crane, single handed, or with only the help of a small child. I have done some research and actually gone, looked at a few systems, and even own a beach cat with a mast raising system, but I want to hear from others what their favorite methods and gear are. Below are some of my thoughts in point form. -A pin through the base of the mast/mast step for the mast to pivot up on seems pretty well a must. -Not all small sailboats have a pin, in fact lots don't, I wonder why? -Gin poles always seem to work great in articles and on Youtube, but in practice, it seems really hard to keep the mast from flopping over port to starboard and causing all kinds of damage. -Systems where the mast itself folds seem only to be on boats that weren't intended to sail well -I saw an interesting A-Frame system recently that bolts onto the boats Toe-Rail, looked pretty good, but it wasn't something that you can bring with you on the boat. -I Have seen trailers with tall poles, again, can't bring those with you on the boat. My son and I plan to sail up the Rideau Canal this summer to Ottawa for Canadas 150 th. There are 8 fixed bridges under 22 feet on the canal. We could motor, but that's not the point. We have not yet bought the boat for this trip, but there are pretty well no boats we're interested in with a mast less than 22 feet.   Arcb said: -Gin poles always seem to work great in articles and on Youtube, but in practice, it seems really hard to keep the mast from flopping over port to starboard and causing all kinds of damage. Click to expand... I'm assuming it's a deck stepped mast. Whatever you do, make sure you have 2 things: 1. mast bottom or step is hinged and will not 'jump out' of position 2. you raise the mast using standard trailer winch that allows even a small kid to fully control mast up and down movement. I attach a block on top of mast support pole on my trailer, and run the trailer winch cable through it (it is a separate winch only used for raising mast). I use the main halyard coupled with the winch cable to raise the mast. Once the mast is in position, I attach the bow shroud and I'm done. My helper only cranks the winch on my command as I hole the mast to prevent it from moving sideways.   Thanks for bringing this up, I will soon have this challenge plus a dozen more. My S2 has a 35' mast. Yes... in over my head a bit, seems that I deliberately seek out daunting challenges to add color to life. Have three stout aluminum poles that are each 8' long and screw to one another. Need to make an attachment for the tip that allows control of the mast. Leverage can be the enemy of the single hander, or the friend. Looking forward to some tips...   Shnool.....can we get an estimate of the weight of the mast on your S2? Seems to be a sturdily built boat which helps explain the original prices, on the higher side, for a boat with a pretty spartan cockpit. It seems like I could possibly use a winch on my truck to keep things from getting out of control.   ColoGuy said: Shnool.....can we get an estimate of the weight of the mast on your S2? Seems to be a sturdily built boat which helps explain the original prices, on the higher side, for a boat with a pretty spartan cockpit. It seems like I could possibly use a winch on my truck to keep things from getting out of control. Click to expand... All else equal, you will have more difficulty doing this on the water, than on a trailer. My C22 had a mast pin that had a bit of play in it. This results in a bit of wobble going up, but, unless your mast hinge is very robust, might prevent damage where the pin goes through the mast.   Great pics guys, Schnool, your Aframe looks very attractive. Just to clarify a couple of points, for my situation, the plan is to keep the boat in a slip, mast stepped %80+ of the time. However, my goal is to trailer sail it for roughly 1x2week vacation per year. This particular year, the plan is to do the big Canada Day celebration in the Capital (I already have my seasonal lockage permit). So basically, launch the boat in the spring. Week end/evening sail it out of it's slip. Then when my summer vacation comes, unstep mast, load boat on trailer. Sail boat 125 miles through inland water way. Watch the fire works on parliament hill. Put boat back on trailer, then sail it out of slip on week ends/evenings until November/December. The hitch is, for the vacation this year I have these 8 bridges in my way. My thoughts are I don't need to completely drop the mast to pass under a 22' bridge, just rake it back by 45 degrees or so. As for the boat, I haven't purchased it yet, but I'm only looking at deck stepped models with a maximum size of about 25', however, I am considering boats as small as 18'. Certainly a Catalina 22 style of boat is an option I'm considering. Indeed, part of my boat selection criteria is based on ease of mast stepping. I was wondering about the tree branch option. There are some big maples at my local boat ramp. Just toss the tow cable on my SUV over a branch, and boom, I've got an electric crane. I'd have to figure out a way to get some chaffing gear over the branch so I didn't damage the tree. However, my hopes are this thread will be useful for other folks pondering mast stepping issues as well. Here is a map and list of bridges I need to contend with. http://www.rideau-info.com/canal/map-waterway.html http://www.rideau-info.com/canal/statistics.html   Arcb said: The hitch is, for the vacation this year I have these 8 bridges in my way. My thoughts are I don't need to completely drop the mast to pass under a 22' bridge, just rake it back by 45 degrees or so. As for the boat, I haven't purchased it yet, but I'm only looking at deck stepped models with a maximum size of about 25', however, I am considering boats as small as 18'. Certainly a Catalina 22 style of boat is an option I'm considering. Indeed, part of my boat selection criteria is based on ease of mast stepping. Click to expand... Arcb said: We've booked off 17 days to do this trip, so I'm figuring with messing around with boats and trailers that leaves me 14 days on the water (we plan to only do a one way transit on the canal and trailer back). So our goal is only 9 miles/day on average. So I think it's possible. Click to expand... Our Nor'sea has a mast rising/lower system. The boom is used as the gin pole. The foot of the mast is angled, the tabernacle is slotted so the bolt rides up/down. The mast is lower forward with the aft lower shrouds disconnected, other stays/shrouds loosened. The aft end of the boom is attached to the upper chain plates via wire cables. This attachment point A is even horizontally with the tabernacle via an extension of the upper shrouds that is permanently mounted. The main halyards, I use all three halyards when doing this, are attached to the end of the boom. There are two other cables, port/starboard, attached to point A that led aft to pad eyes. Once all the cables and halyards are attached, the backstay is undone, I walk forward with the mani sheet in hand and pull on the forestay which pulls the mast forward and start the lower process. The main sheet controls decent, the cables on the end of the boom and upper and forward lower stays stabilizes the mast side to side. The biggest problem is attaching the boom to the mast when rising. The boom is 13 feet long. Right now it takes two people, one to hold the boom and the other to insert the bolt into the gooseneck fitting. I have thought about building a boot of some kind that would fit around the mast that would hold the boom. The other problem is sliding the mast forward. I have a roller on the bow rail which helps but the mast has to lifted when the deck/steaming light and spreaders come up to that roller. Google has an image of this system here: https://www.google.com/search?q=nor...UIBigB&biw=1583&bih=923#imgrc=Q9UuVvi5Jt2y5M:   The above examples are all excellent- SHNOOL's A-frame system is nicely done. My father has a Seaward 23 (~30 foot mast) that gets raised and lowered once per year when the boat is pulled for the winter. He has a gin pole (mounted just forward of the mast) and uses the mainsheet to raise/lower. He has added baby stays on the side of his mast to keep it from swaying in the breeze. I will stress that baby stays are essential unless you have a second hand to hold the mast in column as it goes up. Even then, baby stays are helpful. His run from the mast track to stanchion bases. In my opinion, using the baby stays are essential if using a gin pole. As for doing this on the water, I wouldn't want to raise/lower my mast on the water much even on my 19 foot boat with a tabernacle. One little wave and you've ripped the mounting plate out of the deck. Some boats such as Compac Eclipse/Horizon might be easier, but I wouldn't want to be doing it too often.   I use a gin pole on my Chrysler 26. I always raise the mast solo. There is no flopping about at all. I have the mast in control at all times. The key is to have the gin pole, and the mast stayed. I use 4 tie down straps. 2 on the mast (I attached some padeyes about 6 feet up on each side), 2 on the gin pole. If something is leaning to one side, I just tighten the opposite strap. My mast is mounted to a hinge plate from Dweyer.   kenr74 said: The key is to have the gin pole, and the mast stayed. I use 4 tie down straps. 2 on the mast (I attached some padeyes about 6 feet up on each side), 2 on the gin pole. If something is leaning to one side, I just tighten the opposite strap. My mast is mounted to a hinge plate from Dweyer. Click to expand... fallard said: If the OP is OK with an 18' boat, he might consider an 18' Marshall or 19' Menger catboat that is set up with a mast tabernacle. Click to expand... SVAuspicious said: The only minor thing I can offer to what others have said is that working from a belay point across the dock on the opposite finger helped a lot although obviously required a longer line.... ...The idea of raking the mast back is a good one, but not as easy as it might seem. A friend of mine has a 60' ketch (yes much bigger). I don't recall the air draft - 76' I think. The boat is rigged to lay the main mast back to fit under 65' bridges on the ICW ...You'll have a great time. It sounds like a great plan. Click to expand... To Schnools point about mast raising taking time, it does seriously impinge on just showing up, splashing the boat, and sailing off into the sunset but like anything the real trick it to develop a procedure, follow the procedure, note shortcomings in the procedure, amend the procedure etc etc etc until you have a system that takes launching and mast raising from being an "event" to being a "process". It's tough to do that since, lets be honest, we are all lazy when it comes to our hobbies and we don't really want to sit there and act all businessman Bob about things that are supposed to be fun but if you want to trailer well, it really does make all the difference. My boat is likely quite a bit more complex than most trailer sailers both in systems as well as physical size but I can, like Schnool, be up, sails bent, and pulling away from the courtesy dock in about 1.5 hours. Not smooth enough to make me want to weekend somewhere but quick enough that I can plan to drive all day, pull into the ramp a little before sunset and know that I can sleep on the hook instead of in the parking lot. If I was doing the trip you are talking about in my boat I would probably drop the mast coming up to the first bridge and leave it down till I passed the same bridge going back. As it happens, I have a Yanmar diesel that seems to derive it's power from the collective happiness of passing birds or something because no matter how much I motor, I really don't ever seem to use any fuel.   Aswayze said: If I was doing the trip you are talking about in my boat I would probably drop the mast coming up to the first bridge and leave it down till I passed the same bridge going back Click to expand... Good posts by all, but if a picture is worth a thousand words, a video would be even better. I especially like the idea of the boom as the gin pole. However, now I'm concerned since my stays are on spreaders. I just bought a '73 Coronado 23-2, so I'll be figuring this all out soon. Practice in my driveway first with some of these ideas. I grew up sailing a Chrysler Mutineer 15' so we could just walk the mast up (although it had a lot of mast for so small a boat).   If the OP is OK with an 18' boat, he might consider an 18' Marshall or 19' Menger catboat that is set up with a mast tabernacle. One advantage of a gaff-rigged boat is that the mast is not as high as that of an 18' sloop. Catboats are beamier and heavier than sloops of the same length, so it would be fair to compare a Menger 19 to a Catalina 22 in that regard. Raising and lowering the mast can be a one-man job and doesn't necessarily require the winch shown in this video: . I had an 18' catboat for many years that had a keel-stepped mast. I stepped and unstepped that mast in the water, without mechanical assist, but it required 2 adult males and had its risks. The deck-step with tabernacle is the way to go, whatever the boat, if you want to be independent of gin poles, A-frames, and such.   Most has been said - but I can raise a couple of points; It seems far easier and safer when the boat is in the water, rather than perched high on a trailer. Human nature is to get the mast raising done first while on land, but that is more difficult and dangerous. Make sure you always close all hatches and keep awareness of where you step. The Cat 22 has available from Catalina a rear mast crutch with rollers which is very helpful. It slips into the rudder pintles and gets you up that first bit, from where afterwards you just basically do the Iwo Jima thing or winch it up or use the jib halyard. Its very helpful to have a quick connect or even just an extra shakle on the front stay to give you a temporary hold. . Leave the lower rear stays on for side stability and the rear stay is always left on. Its is usually awkward, stressful and exhausting, especially if the sun is high and hot. Hard to see the inevitable fouled halyards and stays. 2 people minimum. I have the Cat 22.   For the record, I know we've moved on to lowering the mast while underway (something I know is done, but I don't know I'd want to advise how to do frankly only because I've not done it)... but I thought I'd add that I'm about 3 weeks away from launching my keel stepped Wavelength 24. As I stated before, I may go one of 2 ways to get the stick up, either using a branch across our launch ramp, or by building an A-frame Crane. Either way I thought I'd let you folks know when I do this, I'll get pictures and add it to this thread. I think the OP hit on a very important topic, that covers a lot of territory, and needs. If I can cover what are essentially the 2 types of trailer sailors with pictures for stepping deck, and keel stepped masts, great. If others will also add how they'd approach lowering for bridges/overpasses with pictures we might just have a "Sticky" thread that will answer questions for most trailerable boats, and mast (un)stepping for various situations. Because of the "danger" involved it should be noted that each of us has an obligation to test our "methods" in a controlled environment as best we can. Any method used should take into account safety of those using it. Example. If my rig fails... the mast drops away from me! Yep, I'll lose and expensive rig. I'll walk away mad, and cursing, but not injured. To me the best system is one where nobody can easily get hurt.   I have a Catalina 22 and I raise and lower my mast almost by myself. I need an assistant for about five minutes and all they do is hold a line. I do this on the trailer, I've never tried it in the water but I imagine it would work there too. The base of the mast is pinned to a plate at the mast step, so this acts as a hinge. The head of the mast rests on the rear crutch that Sal mentioned, so it's already a good ways up in the air. I connect a non-stretch line to the forestay, run it through the spinnaker block (a block on the stem fitting would work too), back along the deck, around a winch a couple times, and down to the ground. I stand up on the cockpit benches, one foot on each, and walk the mast up until I'm at the companionway. This is where the assistant comes in. Someone has to pull the line taught and hold it. Since it's wrapped around the winch it doesn't really take any strength. While the assistant is holding the line which keeps the mast from dropping, I scramble up to the cabin roof, then walk the mast the rest of the way up. I then grab the forestay, disconnect the line and connect it to the stem fitting. Done!   Some of my first experience on keelboats was at a sailing club's day trips that started with bridges and a lock; this required stepping and un-stepping the mast 2x each day under sail while under tow. The Rhodes 19s were fitted with a removable crutch in a special fitting at the stern and, crucially, a pivot installed in the mast just above the deck. The backstay was adjustable and the forestay was detachable; you'd put the forestay pin back in place and then tighten the backstay. No winches on the boats so it was all done by hand. It was really simple and the course where you learned how to do it was just a talk about the procedure and then running through a demonstration one time and then you're "rated" for the procedure. I'm tall and strong but after a dozen times going through the process I could un-rig or re-rig the boat in 10 minutes solo. Putting it back up easy; the annoying part about dropping the mast solo was the back stay inevitably got wet. I meant to make a video of this but they discontinued the trips through the canal and out into the harbor. These videos have a few quick shots of what it looked like (mostly at the start): I appreciate all your feedback on the docking video a while ago: if you want I can go and try to take some pictures of the hardware and see if they have any old materials on the procedure. Unfortunately the hardware might be gone; as I said they discontinued these trips several years ago.   Savvy, that sounds like an interesting sailing class, a lock and a bridge on every trip. Sounds like you got you money's worth!   OK I will have to take off the tabernacle that is on there now. Didn't want to do that but maybe it is necessary, I heard that the Chrysler system is not too safe. I thought that the hole in the end of the Boom was for something, now I know for sure. Also there is an eye 7' up from the bottom of the mast on the front. Was this for a Spinnaker or something else?   Skipper Dan said: I thought that the hole in the end of the Boom was for something, now I know for sure. Also there is an eye 7' up from the bottom of the mast on the front. Was this for a Spinnaker or something else? Click to expand... Nice find Sal, that's not too far from me, might be worth a detour.   Okay, I found and purchased a suitable boat with a suitable mast raising system for my trip. She's a Bay Hen 21. Being an unstayed Gaff head Cat rig, her mast is quite short, I should be able to sail under most of the bridges and for the ones I can't, I can quickly drop the mast, row under the bridge, and put the mast back up on the other side. I think I'll go with long oars and do the trip engineless. I shot this film in my drive way this morning showing the mast stepping procedure. Before I post it, I will say, this is my first time doing this, just had the users manual for direction and was supervising a 2 1/2 year old while I was figuring it all out, so I think I did okay, but there is certainly room for improvement.   ?             175.5K members Top Contributors this Month 497 COMMENTS Sailboat without a mast I think many people are assuming a sailboat without a mast behaves the same as a sailboat without any sails up and it's completely different. But this is all based on personal and a rather limited selection, but wide ranging type of boats (from a 27' sloop to a 58' hermaphrodite brig). 1979 Cherubini Raider 33. Buying/Using a Sailboat Without a Mast A true trawler design power boat will be equally if not more fuel efficient than a sailboat. Also, a sailboat without a mast, if you take it anywhere other that dead calm water like the Erie Canal, will roll like crazy and be very uncomfortable. And as pointed out, adding a mast and rigging to a sailboat without can be quite expensive and changing from the original rig to a different one, like ... Buying/Using a Sailboat Without a Mast Despite what you may be hearing or reading, a sailboat will act the same with or without a mast in place. A big difference can be felt when sails are up. If you had a sailboat that had been de-rigged and took it out on the lake under power and it had correct ballast and whatever keel that was on the boat was in tact it would handle just the same as it would with a naked mast erected. Buying/Using a Sailboat Without a Mast Posts: 2,898. Re: Buying/using a sailboat without a mast. A tabernacle mast is what you want. The mast can be lowered and raised usually without a crane. Your budget will be sufficient to find something fairly decent in the 30 to 34 foot range that won't need much, if any, major work to be safe and ready to sail. Sailboat without a mast 371. #33 · Aug 30, 2012. JonEisberg said: Hmmm, I certainly hope no one considering doing the Loop in a cruising sailboat is taking these numbers from that link seriously: A 32' to 36' (live a-board size) Sailboat might be rated for a 10 to 25hp engine and have a 10 mph fuel burn rate of 0.4 to 0.8 gallons per hour. Sailboat without a mast Sailboat without a mast. Jump to Latest SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! 61 - 80 of 87 Posts. 1 4 of 5 ... Cruising without the mast 1,527. Hunter 27_75-84 Sandusky Harbor Marina, Ohio. Nov 2, 2019. #3. Our experience on our h27 (going to another port for specialized repairs) and our friends' h30 (a week on the Trent Severn, crossing Lake Ontario, and a couple of days on the Erie Canal): The long mast has a lot of angular momentum, and significantly reduces boat motion. What Is A Sailboat Mast? Sailboats require a mast primarily to support the sails. It holds the sails in an elevated position, allowing them to catch the wind effectively. Without a mast, the sails would lack the means to be raised and positioned to harness the power of the wind. There are a few other important jobs that the mast plays: Sailboat Mast Guide: Types, Maintenance, and Upgrades Deck-Stepped Masts. Deck-stepped masts rest on the deck of the boat, making them easier to install and remove. They are commonly found on smaller sailboats and are more forgiving in terms of maintenance. However, they may offer slightly less stability than keel-stepped masts. A sailboat without a mast, switch to kiteboat! A sailboat without a mast, switch to kiteboat! Peter Renssen is a Dutchman, passionate about sailing and kitesurfing who decided to launch a new kiteboat, easy to handle. With the Kitetender, he wants to "dust off" the image of sailing and make sailing easier by providing new sensations. No mast... The mast and keel are dependent on each other to make the boat roll gently. Without the stick, the boat will be stiff and jerky. Wave action will make the boat roll, but without the mast to counterbalance the keel, the underwater pendulum will force itself down faster and mercilessly. Its going to behave a tad insensitively, yet very stable. How to de-mast a sailboat permanently Its absolutely possible to pull the mast. And it is also true that the motion of sailboats is designed for the mass of the mast to be above the boat. The weight in the keel is there mostly to offset that as well as to work with that. If you remove the mast, you will have a lot of unnecessary weight in the boat that will change how she behaves. Sailboat without a mast Reaction score. 30. #41 · Sep 1, 2012 (Edited) A dismasted sailboat (keelboat) will be adversely affected. This is a well-established fact as discovered and confirmed by some of the leading minds in sailing while investigating the Fastnet '79 disaster. Think of a metronome. Now remove the counterweight and cut the long stem off. 17 Sailboat Types Explained: How To Recognize Them one mast. triangular mainsail (called a Bermuda sail) a foresail (also called the jib) fore-and-aft rigged. medium-sized (12 - 50 ft) Fore-and-aft rigged just means "from front to back". This type of rigging helps to sail upwind. Any sailboat with one mast and two sails could still be a sloop. Re-rigging without mast removal. The rigger climbed the mast and set a strap 2/3rds up the mast this caused the mast to stay vertical when lifted. Once secure hanging from the crane, the standing shrouds/stays were released. The forestay and furler were released and bound to the mast. All the wires were undone a the units and snaked to beneath the mast. How to Step a Mast Single-Handed With or Without Using the Boom as a The mast step is nearly in-line with the tops of the stanchions, so the cords rotate around the same pivot point as the mast and the boom. If your sailboat doesn't have the same style of gooseneck fitting as a Catalina 22 or you can't use your boom for some other reason but you do have a spinnaker pole, you might be able to use it instead ... Using sailboat without sails. 4170 posts · Joined 2013. #5 · Apr 9, 2013 (Edited) At one time I was using my Holder 14 (without the mast, sails, dagger board and rudder) with a 5HP outboard. Since the motor mount on this boat is off-center, it was prudent for me to sit on the opposite side of the mount to balance the boat better. The boat was stable and quite fast. Sailboat without rigging. In Brittany, small, ie 18-20 ft, sailing boats without their rigs are very commonly used for inshore work. If using an outboard for propulsion, it wouldn't be too difficult to add fuel storage, one or more extra tanks with their own fuel lines, perhaps. Re: Sailboat without rigging. Sounds like a ok project. Sailboat Mast: Everything You Need To Know A sailboat mast is a tall pole that is attached to the deck. It helps secure the sail's length to the boat and upholds the sail's structure. A sailboat mast is the most defining characteristic of a sailboat, helping keep the sail in place. What's amazing about it is that it can even be taller than the vessel's length! Racing boat stranded on Texas shore declared abandoned However, the boat's mast was dug deep in the sand and it would not budge."The boat has been in sailing races all over the world and was the owner's pride and joy," they said. "Eric would very much ... Sailboat without a mast Sailboat without a mast. Jump to Latest. SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! 81 - 87 of 87 Posts. 1 5 of 5 5. Remove a mast without a crane? I have a 34 foot carbon fiber mast on a 23 ft LOA Hirondelle with an aero-rig. The boat is currently resting on the ground. A heavy fiberglass 'Yard' can be separated from the mast.I used an internet 'tube mass' calculator on the internet and approximated the weight of the carbon fiber mast alone at 100lbs. The mast is stepped on the cabin floor. I want to remove the mast by pulling it out ... Chicago to Mackinac sailboat race: Storm snaps masts, tosses sailor Both boats resumed racing the 333-statute-mile (289-nautical-mile) race without injury. In addition to Usual Suspects, owned by Eric Wynsma, masts broke on the 65-foot Sagamore owned by Laura and ... Single Handed Mast Stepping without a Crane That is a Capri 25, with a hinged mast step. Its a deck stepped mast, and the mast is 31 feet off the deck. The mast in question is a masthead rig, with 2 lowers and an upper. The Capri 25 is a fixed keel boat with a spade rudder (no pintles). To accomplish this, the forward lowers ONLY and forestay have been removed. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht