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  • Sailboat Guide

Precision 13

Precision 13 is a 13 ′ 1 ″ / 4 m monohull sailboat designed by Stephen Seaton and built by Precision Boat Works starting in 1985.

Drawing of Precision 13

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Precision15

  • Thread starter marshsailer
  • Start date Jul 13, 2015
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Trailer Sailors

marshsailer

Any experience with sailing and owning the Precision 15 CB ? Characteristics sailing into the wind ? OK on a mooring i.e. stable enough not to capsize; (seems beamy enough but mast is tall). Thanks all. Ken  

Brian S

As far as I know, it's a typical 15' daysailing centerboarder. You could probably get more responses here: http://forum.trailersailor.com/forum.php?id=11 Also, Sailor's Taylor makes a trailing/mooring cover for it: http://www.sailorstailor.com/products.asp?cat=119 I had a similar cover for my Whaler Harpoon 4.6, and it worked fine for dry sailing with the mast up. However, I think I would rather have had one of their mooring covers, which would have allowed me to keep the boom attached all the time. I know many Flying Scots in our club who have the Sunbrella mooring cover, as they keep the boom on with mainsail rolled up under the boom. http://www.sailorstailor.com/types.asp  

Crazy Dave Condon

AS a former dealer and owner of a Precision 15, it in many ways has more room than longer daysailors and is built well. Heeling no more than 12 degrees, you will go fast as there is less wetted surface or friction when sailing flatter vs. heeled way over. Plus you do not want to scare anyone particular the better half. I am not sure if the main is a bolt rope or sail slugs but if bolt rope, convert that over to sail slides. Also add a topping lift which I also used to aid holding the mast up after raising the mast tying it up forward which allowed me then to attach the forestay. In addition I added at the end of the boom an eyestrap or something which to attach a twist shackle shackled to a small boat double cheek block with a V jam used or seen on small boat boom vang which I threaded in a manner the topping lift thru which then I could lower or raise the boom quickly. Most mfg. reps I never trusted except for a few. Bart Blei who is the sales manager I found over the years to be very truthful, honest, imformative, helpful and so on with customers as what was reported back to my along with my experience with him too. I very rarely trust reps but he is one that broke the mold. Call him As for the boat cover, that company does excellent work as I ordered them from them in the past to include my own personal boat. Get a light color as heat builds up underneath in the hot sun. You may want to add vents.  

Precision 15 Thank you for that description of performance of the P15. So far so good. I'm willing to sacrifice super pointing and some speed for manageability -- that is provided the boat still performs reasonably well. The manageability ( Limited heeling- great for a CB boat) will be important to the "better half" crew. I'll keep her on a mooring in a relatively calm cove and will mount a 3-4 hp outboard for maneuver in tight quarters heading very close to wind. Ken  

If planning to keep on a mooring you may want to consider bottom painting. When ever a customer told me this I included barrier coating first. why? No matter the manufacturer, the gel coat was thinner on small craft and the major concern was pit blistering. One way to prevent that is to apply barrier coat. If you live on the water, there is a way to make a ramp into the water using the trailer which was done also in the event the owners did not want to bottom paint. Food for thought.  

Thanks. Yes, I've been in touch with a P15 owner who described gel coat damage due, he believes, from abrasion with parts of his retailer or launch dolly. Sounds like it doesn't take much. In any case, I'll be sure to add the barrier coat before bottom paint when I find my new boat. marshsailer/ken  

Marshsialor Do you live on the water and if so post a photo as there are two possibilities if you want to keep the boat moored in a sense on an alternative. Beach dolly for that boat is no in my books.  

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