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  • Marine Wire
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  • 1. Panel Buyer’s Guide
  • 2. Switch Panel Options
  • 3. Panel Material
  • 4. Switch Label Options
  • 5. Printed vs. Etched Switch Covers
  • 7. Wiring Diagrams
  • 8. Boat Wiring Basics
  • 9. Before and After
  • 10. LuxMatte
  • Panel Projects

How To Wire (or re-wire) a boat

I know what you’re thinking.  “ How is this lunatic going to cover such a complex topic as – how to wire a boat – in one post? ”

Well – you’re right – We won’t be able to cover every situation, or every possible setup on every boat.  And if all this info is new to you, you’re probably best hiring a professional marine electrician to do it for you ( local install support directory ).  But, we’ll try anyway to explain some of the general theory and best practices in hopes it will help.

In this guide we’ll stick with the 12Vdc power distributions systems, as opposed to engine or gauge wiring.

A few notes before we start:

  • Positive wires are red (in our guide, your boat may have other colors)
  • Negative wires are black (or may be yellow on your boat)
  • Current is measured in Amps (A)
  • Potential difference is measured in Volts (V)
  • Current flows through the wires (like water through a pipe).  Too much current can heat up the wiring to the point of starting a fire
  • Voltage does not “flow” it is a measurement of potential to do work.  Like water pressure in a pipe

I’m in a hurry…

1. The Electrical Source: a Battery

In a boat, electricity is stored in one or more batteries.  The batteries are charged by your engine’s alternator or auxiliary battery charger.  They can hold an enormous amount of energy, capable of pushing hundreds, or even a thousand amps (more than your entire house uses)… so care must be taken, and proper circuit protection should not be ignored .

Greatly generalizing the topic here, but you usually run into two types of batteries in the size of boat we deal with:

  • Starting Battery  – Has high current rush capacity
  • Deep Cycle Battery – Capable of deep discharge without harm

The two setups we most often run into is:

  • Single Engine – 1 starting, and 1 house battery
  • Twin Engine – 2 starting, and 1 house battery
Every non-engine wire (EVERY ONE) should be circuit protected with a fuse or circuit breaker

Batteries have positive and negative.  For current to flow (which does the work) a complete circuit must be made from positive back to the negative.  Any break in the circuit anywhere will stop the load from operating (which you probably already know or you wouldn’t be reading this to try and fix your marine wiring issue).

small yacht electrics

A normal battery might be able to push 800A or more current

A normal battery might have 70-80AH (amp hours) of capacity. Meaning it can run a 1A load for 70 to 80 hours, or a 10A load for 7 to 8 hours before it is discharged.

So let’s get our boat wiring diagram started with our batteries!

Tip: (use the tabs to view and hide notes).

small yacht electrics

Testimonial:

“Thanks Rob… I know you’re super busy – and this ain’t the biggest project in your shop, I’m sure. But the level of service I’ve gotten so far is five-star. Much appreciated.  Have an awesome holiday!”

-Rick K. Angels Camp, CA

2. main battery switch.

In nearly all cases your boat wiring system should have a marine-grade main battery disconnect switch .  This allows you to open the switch turning everything off at once.  In this case, We’ve shown a 1-2-BOTH type battery switch.

Both battery positives are running through this switch, and you can use it to select which battery you want to output, similar to an A-B switch.  But a 1-2-BOTH marine battery switch also allows you to parallel both batteries.  Both settings might be used when you are running your engine and want to charge both batteries from the alternator, or if you need to parallel the batteries in an emergency to help start your engine if your start battery becomes too depleted.

Remember to turn your battery switch to the “house circuit” when your engine is not running, so you are only drawing down your deep cycle house battery meant for that purpose.

we’ve changed the diagram a bit now to show the start battery running through our new marine battery switch

A Double Pole ON/OFF/COMBINE battery switch ( like this one ) is a great choice for a single-engine, two battery boat wiring system.  It allows your house and starts battery to remain isolated except for emergency conditions.

how to wire a boat

Used to shutoff everything and prevent trickle charges from draining your battery

how to wire a boat

3. Battery Switch Bypass Loads (Bilge Pump, etc)

It’s pretty standard in boat wiring to bypass the main battery switch for one thing:  The boat’s bilge pump float switch.  This way, even if your battery switch is off, if your boat starts filling with water the pump will still kick on.  I’d rather have a dead battery than a swamped boat.

Notice the fuse shown – this needs to be circuit protected with an inline fuse like this one .  I’m also showing the negative return wiring for the bilge pump in this step.

A stereo memory line might be another “bypassed” load

We have an in depth article here on how to wire a bilge pump … check that out as well for more details.

marine grade battery disconnect switch

You’ll probably want to bypass your battery switch for this important load

small yacht electrics

“I have been thrilled with my new panel with a 3 foot harness. It looks great and using your tutorials I have been able to rewire my 10 year old center console. The support I received from New Wire Marine went above and beyond. Thank You!”

-Robert B. Bethesda, MD.

Printed rocker switch panel with breakers

4. Get the Source to the Boat’s Helm

The next step is to get the power from the house battery up to the switch panel where we can use it to do some good.  Two conductors – a positive from the battery switch (with a fuse) and a negative from the ganged together battery negatives should be ran to where the central switch panel is.  You should use marine grade primary wire for this.

This is sometimes a long wiring run on a boat.  Plus these two conductors will carry the current of all your electrical loads combined, so they are typically fairly beefy cables.  Even a small boat (3-5 loads) we’d recommend at least 12AWG wire for this.  10AWG for larger boats (5-10 loads) is normal.  8AWG is getting toward over-kill in most cases for boats under 30ft.

Remember these are all generalities, there are many valid reasons to make exceptions

Keep in mind that the longer your wiring run from the battery to switch panel is, the more voltage drop you’ll have ( more about voltage drop ).  Prevent voltage drop by using larger cable.

The power cables will be run to your New Wire Marine custom marine switch panel and your tinned marine negative bus bar .  Most of our switch panels include waterproof resettable circuit breakers with all the connections pre-made to make them work, that’s how it is shown here.

Note, if you do not order circuit breakers in your boat switch panel you’d need to insert a fuse block before the panel, then individual conductors from each fuse to each panel (we really recommend including circuit breakers in your panel if you have space, it will really make your life easier installing and maintaining your new custom switch panel).

The main house battery positive conductor will feed directly into the new switch panel.  The main battery negative should go to a negative buss bar (like this one), where all your boat’s load negatives will eventually be attached.

marine grade battery disconnect switch

Example of one of our  Switch Panels with Built in Circuit Breakers

marine grade terminal block - 30 amp

Example negative bus bar.  Note, this is different than a terminal block  – all the screws are “bused” together.

small yacht electrics

“Excellent company and personnel! They asked the right questions and provided great solutions!” 

-Tre McC. Houston, TX

5. install terminal block as breakout point.

If you get your boat’s switch panel fully wired ( more on that here ), then you’ll have an easy to install wiring harness coming off pre-installed with heat shrink labels, and ring terminals.  This is meant to land on a terminal block like this one .

Each switch output gets its own gang on the terminal block, and with the labels right there it makes a handy breakout point for troubleshooting or adding items down the road.  These are the positives of course – the “switch legs” – and all that’s needed is to crimp a #8 ring terminal on the positive load wiring that runs out around your boat to the various loads.

We’re showing one output from the terminal block here for the manual bilge pump switch.  It’s shown in parallel with the float switch, so either switch can turn the pump on ( read more about bilge pump wiring here ).

marine grade battery disconnect switch

(click to enlarge)

This is how one of our fully wired switch panels would interface with a terminal block.  With our heat shrink labels it’s easy to hook up your load wiring and troubleshoot.

small yacht electrics

“I have enjoyed working with the entire team, they have been super, just a great company to do business with.”

-Jim R. Vero Beach, FL

Backlit Switch Panel with Breakers

6. Run Load Wiring to the Terminal Block and Buss Bar

From here the rest of the wiring is straightforward.  Just hookup your existing boat wiring infrastructure to the terminal block and buss bar.  Positives to the terminal block, and negative to the bus bar.

Most are terminated with standard #8 ring terminals.  The positives of course must be installed on the correct gang associated with the respective switch for that load.  The negatives can go on any screw on the buss bar, they are just trying to get back to the negative post on the battery.

marine grade battery disconnect switch

From here on our it’s just a + and – wire run to each load

small yacht electrics

Here is a tabbed step-by-step diagram for how to wire a boat

Battery switch, bilge float switch, main feeders, terminal block, load wiring, dig our boat wiring content.

We’ve got lots more cool boat wiring stuff to share! 

Signup below for the occasional interesting – not spammy – Boat Wiring tip email, and we’ll email you our complete 13-Page PDF with a bunch of schematics, tips, tricks and checklists to help with your re-wire project, and beyond!

Boat Wiring Guide PDF Download

small yacht electrics

16 Great Small Boats With Electric Motors (With Examples)

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Did you know you don’t have to choose a boat that relies on fossil fuels? That’s right.

You can go full electric, full solar, or a hybrid between the two!

Here are some great boats with electric motors to get you started!

Table of Contents

If you’re in the market for a small boat, there’s a whole ocean of choices out there for you.

1. Aquawatt 550 Elliniko

small yacht electrics

The Aquawatt 550 Elliniko isn’t the fastest boat on the planet, only reaching speeds up to 20 mph. This is the case with most electric boats, it seems, but it’s a small price to pay to save the environment (and your wallet, considering today’s gas prices).

Despite the slower speeds as compared with combustible motors, the Aquawatt 550 Elliniko is as reliable as a gasoline-powered vessel.

It’s an excellent choice for those looking for a day of leisure on the water.

The Elliniko also has plenty of storage and passenger space. The navigation cockpit boasts of a large center console for the captain and there’s a removable mattress in the bow area. There’s a self-draining anchor locker in this area as well. There are also four watertight lockers available for extra sleeping bags, first aid, or other provisions.

Considering Speed

Twenty miles per hour isn’t actually all that slow when compared to most electric boats on the market today, to be fair. Is it a lot slower than traditional combustible engines that use gasoline? Absolutely.

But the Elliniko is one of the fastest electric boats available to the public at the moment.

The fastest electric boat in the world right now is the SAY29E Runabout Carbon with a top speed of a full 50 knots (93 miles per hour). They are preparing to start building for series production now, but it isn’t available for purchase yet.

  • Passengers: 6 person
  • Weight: 1433 – 1654
  • Battery: Lithium ION 80 V 160/200 Ah

2. Aquawatt RIB

small yacht electrics

If you want to go a little faster than the last model’s 20 miles per hour, then take the Aquawatt RIB for a 30 miles per hour spin. It’s an inflatable electric boat with a stylish and durable fiberglass bottom. This means that transporting this boat from your home to the dock should be a lot easier on your back than a tradition non-inflatable vessel.

The Aquawatt RIB is an amazing electric boat for recreational days on the water, especially if you’re trying to reduce your carbon footprint! It can handle four to six adult passengers, so it’s perfect for family outings. There’s nothing quite like a picnic on the water to create some great memories with your children or spouse.

Of course, this is also a wonderful option for someone who likes to have the occasional cocktail party with friends or coworkers out on the harbor.

This boat could quickly be a great opportunity to network with colleagues or clients, helping you to build working relationships steeped in fun memories!

There are three different models of the electric Aquawatt RIB.

You can buy them in 12-foot hulls, 14-foot hulls, or 16-foot hulls. Choose the model that best suits your needs. Are you thinking you might need less room, as it will usually only be you and/or your family on the boat? Or do you think you might want to bring a family friend or two?

Maybe you might want to host a small party every so often?

  • Passengers: 4-6 persons
  • Weight: Depending on model
  • Battery: Lithium ION 80 V 160 Ah

3. Duffy 18’ Snug Harbor

small yacht electrics

This electric-powered boat can seat a full eleven passengers, which means this is the electric boat you want to take out for a nice party on the water.

Its top speed is only 6 mph, however, so make sure if you go far, you allow yourself enough time to get back to shore if you have other appointments that day.

At cruising speed, this vessel’s battery will last a full seven and a half hours! At top speed, it dips to three and a half hours, however. Keep this in mind while you’re on the water and make sure to conserve your battery.

The total distance that you can travel on this battery power is about 17 miles.

Considering the battery life and the speed, this electric boat would probably be best used on a small lake or large pond on your property. Even using it in a harbor where the coast is never far from view would be advisable. This isn’t a boat you want to take on long, harrowing journeys to discover new worlds, but a boat to enjoy the sun reflecting off the water as you laugh and joke with friends and family.

It’s called “Snug Harbor” for more than one reason.

This vessel has a full enclosure of windows and a very small deck, so don’t think you’ll be using this for a lot of sunbathing (unless you want to try sunbathing through the windows). The good thing about this is that it makes it easy to enjoy your boat in the warmer or colder months, during rainy days or windy ways, because the elements can’t reach you with their full force anymore.

This is truly an all-seasons kind of vessel!

  • Length: 18′ – 5″
  • Passengers: 11 persons
  • Top Speed: 6.0 MPH
  • Running Time:
  • @Cruising Speed: 7.5 hours
  • @Top Speed: 3.5 hours

4. Duffy 22’ Bay Island

small yacht electrics

This model from Duffy has the most interior space than any of its other models, which means that it would be excellent for overnight camping trips on the water! Wonder why it’s called the Bay Island? Because it’s got a full window enclosure big enough for twelve people! This keeps you shielded from the weather while also giving you a full 360-degree visibility.

It’s exactly like having your very own island out on the water.

Unlike the previous Duffy model we discussed, the Bay Island has an even greater battery life! You not only get to take an extra passenger along for the ride if you like, but you also get almost double the battery life at cruising and top speeds!

You’ll be able to take this model out of view of the coastline without as many reservations or wariness as you had with the Snug Harbor.

Having a greater battery life also means you can go a little further from the coast without needing to worry too much about being stranded with a dead battery (although all Duffy models have a gauge at the navigation station to inform you of your fuel life).

So now you can take your party a step further – literally!

This model will also allow you to use a double battery system, which would enable you to achieve greater speeds. A single battery takes a full twelve hours to recharge, so a twin system would take double that. Keep this in mind when deciding what kind of battery system you’d like with this model.

  • Length: 22′ – 0″
  • Passengers: 12 persons
  • @Cruising Speed: 12.5 hours
  • @Top Speed: 6.5 hours

5. Duffy 22’ Sun Cruiser

At first glance, this Sun Cruiser might look the same on paper to the Bay Island. It has almost all of the same features as the Bay Island, after all, right down to the hand-polished mahogany steering wheel!

However, this model actually gives you more of a deck! It’s like choosing a giant house with no yard or choosing a slightly smaller house with a patio area.

And just like when choosing a house, you have to ask yourself whether the patio is all that important to you or not. Would you rather have more house instead? Only you can answer that question.

This is a great choice for those boaters who would like to sun themselves while out on the water. Or for those who want to feel the cool sea breeze on their faces while toasting their beloved under the night stars.

Having a deck on your boat is a more pressing question than when you’re deliberating on whether to have an outdoor area in a house. After all, on land, you could just go to your local park to enjoy the open sky.

But on a boat, the only land you have is what you’ve brought along with you!

There’s also seating out on the deck, so you can move away from the rest of the party to have a private conversation if you desire. The Sun Cruiser is the place to be for romantic getaways or a full-on party. It’s all up to you!

  • Capacity: 12 Adults

11 Other Models And Hybrids To Consider

Here are some other electric boats you should check out before you make up your mind:

  • Aquawatt inboard models with solar power
  • Nautic Expo center consoles
  • Nautic Expo runabout boats
  • Nautic Expo cabin boats
  • The Frauscher Mirage 740 Air
  • The Q Yachts Q30 tender
  • The X Shore Electric Boats (Called “The Tesla of the sea)
  • The Rand Picnic boats
  • The Rand Supreme boats
  • The Rand Leisure boats 

There are plenty of electric boats to choose from on the market today, but the trade-off you encounter compared to gas-powered boats is speed.

In the not-so-far-off future, this issue looks as though it will be resolved, however, and boaters will no longer have to choose between speed and reducing their carbon footprint.

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Are Your Boat Electrics

Safe & reliable, ...or do they look like this:.

  • Your boat's electrics are a "black box" to you?
  • You are worried that parts of your system might fail?
  • You want to upgrade or install new equipment in a professional manner?

Sounds familiar?

We teach you how to install and maintain a dc system on a boat like a pro, boat electrics 101 , safe & reliable dc systems, your teachers.

small yacht electrics

Nigel Calder

small yacht electrics

Dr. Jan C. Athenstädt

small yacht electrics

Michael Herrmann

We are Nigel, Jan & Michael. We help you understand, extend, and redo your boat electrics. The right way.

small yacht electrics

I now understand all the electrical systems and how everything works together.

Bob russell - s/v spartina.

Jan, Nigel & Michael, I want to let you know how impressed I was with the BoatHowTo course !! Having purchased a new to me Island Packet 350 this year, I was overwhelmed with all electrical systems on the boat! Modern cursing boats have become very complex and I was lost! Having taken your Boat Electrics 101 course I now understand all the electrical systems and how everything works together . From the very basics, through creating a detailed circuit diagrams of the electrical systems on my boat, my knowledge is years ahead of where I thought it would be at this point. Thanks for a wonderful, extremely useful (and fun) course that takes a lot of the mystery out of sailboat electrical systems!! 

small yacht electrics

Boat electrics is  not rocket science ... ...but it still has to be DONE RIGHT !

Electrical systems on boats have become more and more complex  over recent years.

Even moderately equipped boats today rely completely on their electrical system . A loss of power means in most cases an emergency at sea. (Or do you still have a sextant and all nautical almanacs on board?)

small yacht electrics

Boat electrics are often poorly understood, despite being such a vital part of the operation of a boat.

The good news: It's not that hard!

With a bit of time and a commitment to learning, everybody who mastered basic high-school math and physics will be able to understand the DC system on a boat. All it takes is a reliable and easy to understand source of information .

You want to understand your system?

Clearly expressed and illustrated, the course is full of practical information, derek nowek - falmouth, me.

The Boat Electrics 101 course is a fantastic resource for beginners like myself who know little about electricity and even less about boats electrical systems. Clearly expressed and illustrated, the course is full of practical information presented in a way that makes boat electrical systems understandable. Thank you for putting it together.

The majority of fires  that start on boats  are caused by the electrical system !

small yacht electrics

Understanding your boat's DC system can significantly improve the safety of your boat!

Unfortunately, many owners have only a vague understanding of their boat's electrical system. Or, even worse: They think they know how to install a system and end up making damaging mistakes...

...and teach others these mistakes in blogs or on YouTube. 

small yacht electrics

YouTube is full of videos about Boat Electrics

– many  are wrong and some are dangerous.

The internet is a great source of information. And in recent years, many people have shared their experience installing or fixing electrical problems on their boats.

The problem: Many of those people are not professionals!

It's easy to put a professionally looking video on YouTube...

...but it is hard to tell, if this actually is professional advice - or misleading BS.

If you follow bad advice on how to varnish teak and you end up with a mess, in the worst case you lose time and a bit of money.

If you follow bad advice on how to connect batteries and your boat ends up in flames, this is a different story. 

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A typical example of bad advice...

small yacht electrics

...is soldering.  Soldering is often praised as a great way of connecting wires. On a boat, it is not. Soldered connections are rigid and tend to break when exposed to the vibrations common on boats.

This is why electrical installation standards from the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) and the European International Organization for Standardization (ISO) both explicitly prohibit soldering as the only means of connection!

You want know how to do it right?

Your brand new boat is properly wired..., ...or maybe not.

When visiting boat shows, Nigel likes to inspect the electrical systems on brand new boats . Unfortunately, this has become quite frustrating: a shockingly high number of production boats come with badly installed electrics – straight from the boatyard.

small yacht electrics

These batteries were installed on a brand new boat. What's wrong here?

  • Inadequate support against sliding off the shelf
  • Parallel connections badly designed - this will lead to premature battery death
  • Too many cables on the positive battery post
  • No overcurrent protection devices anywhere near the positive battery pole

This installation might look neat at first glance. But:

It is unprofessional and asking for trouble!

You want to assess your system,  i now feel empowered to research and undertake this work on my own., mark sweetnam - ireland.

Wow, what an outstanding course – thank you so much. I intensively studied each lesson, took notes (frequently pausing the video to do so), read and made sure I fully understood the lecture notes and then likewise all comments. The entire course took me about 6 full days to complete. In my own case I have owned a 30 year old Swedish boat (Najad) for the past 10 years. It has both 12V and 24V house systems, with two alternators. I got the batteries replaced about 8 years ago (with Victron AGM) but am now looking to upgrade the electrics in numerous ways, and obviously to audit and rectify any OCP or other shortcomings. New batteries will obviously be needed shortly but I also want to add solar. But mainly I want to either get rid of the 12V bank (and use DC-DC converters for the 12V house load) or add 12V-24V-B2B charging both for redundancy and to use full capacity of both 12V and 24V alternators and shore power battery chargers. I now feel empowered to research and undertake this work on my own. Thanks again.

Who or what are ABYC and ISO ?

The  ABYC E-11  and the  ISO 13297 standards cover the principal electrical systems on small craft.

Even though they are legally non-binding, they are based on decades of experience of hundreds of experts in the field. 

So, instead of trying to figure things out for yourself (with potentially disastrous consequences), it is a good idea to follow these standards as closely as possible.

small yacht electrics

All three of us are members of various standards committees of the ABYC and ISO, Nigel and Michael for decades. Everything we teach at B OAT H OW T O   is compliant with ABYC and ISO standards. 

There is no one who knows the standards better than us.

small yacht electrics

The American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) is a non-profit, member organization that develops voluntary global safety standards for the design, construction, maintenance, and repair of recreational boats. As an independent consensus-based body, the industry experts at the ABYC (including Nigel Calder from B OAT H OW T O ) work together with the sole purpose of protecting the safety of the boating public.  

The ABYC’s Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small Craft cover all major boat systems. The development and regular review of these standards provide boat building guidelines that correlate directly with a significant reduction in the number of boating accidents over the past six decades.

small yacht electrics

The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) develops high quality voluntary International Standards. The sub-group of the ISO that addresses small craft (up to 24m/70 feet), is known as Technical Committee (TC)188 (of which Michael Herrmann and Jan Athenstädt from B OAT H OW T O  are both members). This committee has developed a set of standards that are closely aligned with the ABYC standards. 

With respect to boat electrical systems the principal difference between the ABYC and ISO standards lies in the fact that the ABYC standards tend to be more detailed. In order to provide the most detailed information in our lessons, we follow the ABYC standards. Where there are minor disagreements with the ISO (only a handful) we point these out. 

You want your electrics to comply with ISO & ABYC standards?

We know what we are talking about..., ...and  how to apply this knowledge..

Understand the basics of a safe and troublefree installation. Learn how to plan and design a system. Get practical advice on how to put everything in place.

Understand the basics of electrics in general and boat electrics in particular

Learn how to assess existing systems and how to (re-)design the wiring of your boat

Get your hands dirty with practical advice on how to crimp wires, install batteries and much more

The course has given me the knowledge to make better choices

Tommy kaine - sv alboe.

Just a note to say how terrific the Boat Electronics 101 course is. It is very comprehensive. It has empowered me to refit my 1976 Westsail 32 original electrical system. Though I am outsourcing some of the work, the course has given me the knowledge to make better choices, do my portion of the project, and have a smart conversation with the contractors. Thanks for all your hard work and keep it up!

Good marine electricians are rare...

...and expensive, so why not learn how to do it yourself.

Instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a few hours of advice and help from a marine electrician, you can invest in your knowledge - and become more self-reliant!

With our help you can learn how to operate, maintain and extend your boat's electrical system in a professional manner. Better than many people who do this for a living!

small yacht electrics

Invest in your knowledge and self reliance

Even if you know a good marine electrician: You will still have to deal with problems on your own as soon as you are away from the dock.

Proper preparation is key to good seamanship. 

Stop worrying about potential hidden failures in your system. Empower yourself by uncovering the secrets of your boat's electrical system. Regain control in the complex world of marine electrics.

B OAT H OW T O helps you spend a carefree and relaxed time on the water. Boating or sailing the way it's meant to be.

Join us for our  ONLINE COURSE  on DC Systems:

B oat h ow t o boat electrics 101.

Set up a safe and reliable DC system on your boat that complies with ABYC and ISO standards.

  • 1 Fundamentals:  Understand the basics of electricity, how common components work and how to connect them.
  • 2 Batteries & Charging: How do lead-acid batteries work and how to charge them to double or triple their lifetime?
  • 3 System Design:  Step-by-Step guide to plan and install a DC-System on your boat.

In 8 modules (plus bonus lessons & videos), you will learn everything from the basics of electricity to designing a whole DC system on your own.

small yacht electrics

Boat Electrics 101 - Course Contents

59 easy to follow video lessons will turn you from beginner to expert.  .

Take a look at the course syllabus:

Introduction

About Boat Electrics 101

A quick welcome and introduction of your teachers and a few words on who this course is for and what to expect.

Course Structure & Overview

Get an overview on the contents of this course and the underlying standards.

Safety Precautions

In this lesson we will cover some dangers and necessary safety precautions to keep in mind before working on your system.

Electricity

Get to know the basics of electricity and learn about Volts, Amps, Ohms and how they relate to each other.

What is electricity?

What is electricity and what happens when a current flows? We take a quick look at the behavior of electrons inside metallic conductors.

Voltage, Current & Resistance

Learn all you need to know about voltage, the equivalent to pressure in electrical systems.

Ohm's law allows you to calculate how resistance affects voltage given a certain current and vice versa.

Power, Energy, Consumption & Capacity

Power the product of voltage and current. With two examples you will learn how to calculate the power draw of an appliance.

A quick recap on everything we have learned so far.

End-of-Module Quiz

Test your knowledge with a quiz!

Electrical Components and Circuit diagrams

Get to know the most common components of a boat's electrical system and learn how they can be represented in a circuit diagram.

The Idea Behind a Circuit Diagram

Learn why it is important to be able to read and draw circuit diagrams.

Wires & Conductors

In this lesson you learn the symbols for wires and conductors and and their connections.

Circuit Ground

What is ground/earth and how is it represented in circuit diagrams?

Switches, Buttons & Relays

Get to know the basic symbols for switches and buttons and learn how relays and solenoids work.

Resistors & Shunts

Get to know the symbols for resistors and learn about the most common type of resistor on board: the shunt.

Fuses & Circuit Breakers

How are fuses and circuit breakers represented in circuit diagrams?

Coils & Transformers

Coils mostly occur on boats within transformers. Here you will learn about their basic function and how to represent them.

Lamps, LEDs, Diodes, etc.

In this lesson you will get to know a few more symbols for common components in a boat's electrical system.

Basic Circuits

In the final lesson of the module, you will learn how the components in boat electrics are connected in parallel and in series and how this affects battery capacity and voltage.

Test your knowledge with a Quiz!

Conductor Selection and Installation

In this module, you will learn how to choose the right type and size of conductor and how to properly install it. This is crucial knowledge for anyone planning any modification on their boat's electrical system.

Conductor Construction

Learn about different types of conductors and which ones are suitable for use on boats.

Colors & Labeling

Learn what conductor colors you can use for what purpose and how to properly label your wiring.

Sizing Conductors

Learn how to choose the proper size for a cable with respect to ampacity and voltage drop.

Terminals & Terminal Installation

It is crucial for the system's safety to establish proper connections. In this lesson you will learn how to install terminals in a professional manner.

Making the Connection

Proper connections of terminals to bus bars and consumers are vital. Here you learn what makes a professional connection.

Overcurrent Protection (OCP)

In order to prevent fires due to overcurrents and short circuits, protective measures are absolutely crucial. In this lesson you will learn how to choose fuses and circuit breakers and where to install them.

Conductor Installation

Learn the proper way to install conductors in order to protect them from chafing and physical stress

Case Study: High Output Alternators

In this lesson we will apply what we have learned in this module to the special case of high output alternators. As we will see, there are quite a lot of things to consider.

Bonus: Nigel’s Examples

Here we show a few more examples of good or bad installations and also what happens in case of a short circuit if no adequate OCP is installed.

In this module we cover all you need to know about lead acid batteries.

Get an overview on what to expect in this important module.

Battery Safety

Even though they operate at relatively low voltages, there are significant dangers when dealing with batteries. In this lesson we cover the required safety measures.

Lead-Acid Battery Chemistry

In this lesson you will get an overview on the chemistry inside a battery and how lead acid batteries work.

Battery Construction

Here we go more into the details of the internal construction and discuss the differences between cranking and deep cycle batteries.

Battery Types

Now it's time to look at different types of lead acid batteries, such as wet cell, AGM, gel-cell and some new innovations.

Battery Efficiency

Learn about the crucial difference between amp-hour and watt-hour efficiency and how to evaluate batteries based on this.

Battery Ratings

What do the common ratings found batteries (nominal voltage, nominal capacity and cold cranking amp) mean?

Battery Failure Modes

In this lesson you will learn what the most common reasons for battery failure or reduced lifespan are and how to avoid them.

Series & Parallel Batteries

Learn how to maximize battery life when installing batteries in serial or parallel.

Sizing Battery Banks

This lesson will help you decide how much battery capacity you really need for reliable operation and optimal battery lifespan.

Lead-Acid Battery Installation and Maintenance

Learn how to properly install your battery bank and how to maintain it in order to optimize its performance.

Charging Systems

In this module we cover in detail all you need to know about charging batteries. Topics include charging profiles, charging systems, charging circuits and systems monitoring.

Failure Modes Revisited & Expanded

Learn about the most common failure modes with lead acid batteries so mistakes can be avoided.

The Water Tank Analogy

Through the analogy of a water tank with semi-permeable membranes we explain why it takes a long time to completely top off a lead acid battery.

Charge Profiles

Learn what an IUoU profile is and how the bulk, absorption and float phases increase battery life.

Fast Charge & State of Charge (SOC)

Learn strategies to reduce charging times and engine hours while at the same time increasing your battery's lifespan.

Charging Devices

Learn what to look for when choosing a battery charger, an alternator or when planning on installing renewable energy sources.

Charging Circuits

Learn about different ways to charge multiple battery banks from a single power source.

Systems Monitoring

Learn about the importance (and challenges) of proper battery monitoring.

Summary: Batteries & Charging

A quick recap on what we have learned so far in this module.

Energy Systems Design

In this module we will draw on what we have learned about batteries and charging systems to design an energy system optimized for how we want to use our boat

Energy Systems Introduction

In this lesson we introduce the BoatHowTo Boat Electrics Planner which will help us to determine the energy balance on our boat

Energy Consumption

In this lesson, we will look at all loads on the boat and determine their energy consumption for different scenarios.

Energy Storage

To store the energy between charge interval, we have to carefully design our battery banks. In this lesson we look at various options for batteries depending on our calculations from the previous two lessons.

Energy Generation

Now we look at the supply side and determine the available charging sources such as shorepower chargers, alternators and renewable energy sources and their required output to keep up with our energy needs.

Case Studies: Planning a (Re-)Wiring

Now it's time to put what we have learned into practice. We show you how we would design the electrical systems for three different example boats of varying complexity.

We start the module with a brief introduction of our three example boats.

Circuit Diagrams with easyEDA

In this lesson we get to know a free, web-based tool for the creation of circuit diagrams.

Planning the Wiring

Before we get started with our examples, we examine various options for grouping loads and discuss practical limitations, in particular when it comes to older boats.

Simple Boat

We go in detail over the planning of the rewiring of our first example boat, a modest cabin cruiser for weekend getaways.

Medium Boat

In this lesson we plan the wiring of a more complex cruising boat, with systems that you can find on many medium-sized production boats today.

Complex Boat

In our third example, we use everything we learned in this course to plan the complete rewiring of a full-fledged offshore sailboat with a lot of complex, state-of-the-art systems aboard.

Final Remarks & Outlook

In this final lesson of the course, we leave you with a few final remarks. If you made it this far, congratulations! Now you should be able to assess, repair and extend your own system in a safe and reliable way and even be able to do a complete (re-)wiring job.

+ free access to the B OAT H OW T O Boat Electrics Planner spreadsheet tool + quizzes for each module to check your learning progress + exclusive bonus lessons that constantly update over time:

Bonus #1: alternative energy sources.

MODULE  1

An introduction, why it makes sense to install renewable energy sources on a boat.

Why Solar and Wind Power?

In this lesson, we explore good reasons why it might be worthwhile to install alternative energy sources on your boat.

Solar Power

MODULE  2

Solar is by far the best and cheapest way to generate energy on boats.

Turning Light into Electricity

How do solar panels work? And what current and future technologies are out there?

Efficiency Ratings and Real-World Output

What are common ways to rate solar panels and what efficiency can be expected in a real-world scenario on a boat?

Shading and Hot Spots

In this lesson we will look at the problem of shading and hot spots and how these affect the efficiency of a panel.

Solar Charge Controllers

We take a look at different types of solar charge controllers and their properties when charging batteries.

Installation Options

We take a look at various mounting and installation options for (semi-) flexible and rigid panels on board.

Wiring Sizes, Cable Connections and Deck Seals

We take a look at the wiring requirements for solar panels and the practical implementation of the wiring.

Looking Forward

A look into the future of solar technology.

A summary of what we have learned so far about solar power on boats.

Wind Generators

MODULE  3

Wind generators can help top up your batteries, but they need quite some wind to be effective.

Output of Wind Generators

We take a deeper look at ratings and efficiency of wind generators.

We look at noise issues, as these are considered one of the main issues with wind generators.

The spinning blades of a wind generator can become a serious danger. Proper mounting and installation is crucial when operating a wind generator.

Speed Control and Battery Charging

We look at options to regulate wind generator speed and battery charging.

Installation of Wind Generators

In this lesson we look at various options for mounting wind generators on a boat.

Maintenance and Disassembly

Wind generators are not maintenance free! In this lesson you will learn about common points of failure and what to look for when disassembling a unit.

Water Generators

MODULE  4

Water generators can help to generate energy when underway, but they typically only make sense on performance sailboats or catamarans.

The Idea behind Water Generators

A brief overview of technologies and use cases.

Propeller Shaft Generators

A look at shaft generators and cases in which they might be worth considering.

MODULE  5

Bonus #2: LED Lighting

LED Lights on Boats

Learn crucial things to look out for when installing LED lights on your boat.

Bonus #3: Basic Electrical Troubleshooting

Nigel’s Multimeter Talk

In this recorded presentation, Nigel explains you how to use a multimeter for simple troubleshooting tasks.

Overview & Tools

Learn which are the most common causes of electrical faults and what tools we need to trace them down.

Voltage Measurements

Voltage measurements are the most important way to trace faults. This is why this is the most extensive lesson of this module.

Resistance Measurements

If a voltage measurement does not help us track down a fault, resistance measurements might be a solution.

Current Measurements

With a clamp meter, it is possible to make current measurements without disconnecting any terminal. We show you cases when this helps with troubleshooting.

We finish the module with some tips an a brief summary.

Bonus Example: Autopilot Failure

As a bonus, Nigel explains how he troubleshooted a broken autopilot.

Bonus #4: DC Systems Design (Talk by Nigel)

DC Systems Design with Nigel Calder (IBEX talk)

In this talk, Nigel gives an overview of the challenges in designing a safe and reliable DC system. The talk was originally recorded as part of the IBEX 2021 Seminar Series.

Bonus #5: Lead Acid vs. Lithium-Ion (Talk by Nigel)

Choosing the Right Battery Technology with Nigel Calder

Nigel Calder gives an update on today's battery technology. Including important, but often overlooked, considerations on the topic of lithium-ion vs. lead-acid batteries.

It’s excellent value for money

Martin l. - .

Perhaps some might say the course isn’t particularly cheap but I would argue the cost versus the excellent work that has been done in the creation of the course and in my view at least, it’s e xcellent value for money . It is also a reminder that there are things we may think we know, until you complete the course you may well find there are things you didn’t know or had assumed differently.

So thanks for all your hard work and I do hope that many will learn better and safer ways and take a much closer look and inspection of their own electrical systems. I certainly have. There is a great deal of information to absorb and I have no doubt I will be returning again and again to re-read various sections of the course.

Ready to acquire  expert knowledge in Boat Electrics?

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Take advantage of our limited-time launch offer :

Immediate access to Boat Electrics 101 for only $199 instead of $299. Includes future course updates, access to bonus lessons, exclusive talks by Nigel & our Boat Electrics Planner.

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60-day money back guarantee

Secure Payment

Want to learn even more? Check out our bundle offer for Boat Electrics 101 & our Advanced Marine Electrics program for just $398!

You're a professional and need CEUs or additional licenses? Choose the certificate option at the checkout to get up to 19 CEUs upon successful completion of the course! You also have the option to purchase additional licenses for your employees.

Boat Electrics 101: More Testimonials

small yacht electrics

"Boaters know there is nothing better than a trouble-free day on the water."

"Having the confidence and skills to tackle unexpected issues makes boating much more enjoyable. The team at BoatHowTo has put together a ‘Boat Electrics 101’ course designed with the recreational boater in mind. They will walk you through the skills and tools required to troubleshoot your boat’s electrical system. Each work-at-your-own-pace module will help you understand the basics, apply it to your existing system, then get your hands dirty. I always say, 'learn then do,' so we can all be safe on the water."

- Pacific Yacht Systems

small yacht electrics

"Great hands-on information for upgrading my system."

“Boat Electrics 101 helped me understand how to plan an upgrade to the energy system of our Moody 44 "High Flight". Thanks to Jan's great explanations, I am now confident to have a plan forward and make the the right choices when I will be sizing the new battery bank and upgrading the old alternator with a modern B2B charger. "

Chris Loewe

- sy high flight.

small yacht electrics

"This is the course I wish I could've had years ago! "

“This would've saved me hours of trying to figure out what the best approach is for various parts of the power setup on our Tayana 37. More importantly though, this course has given me the confidence to know that I am doing it 'right' from the start. 

I've made a lot of mistakes in the past that cost me time and money, even putting the boat at risk unknowingly. 

The content of Boat Electrics 101 is clear and easy to navigate. And Jan presents the content in an easy to follow (and even entertaining!) way.

I've noticed I feel less anxious, knowing better how things work and how to fix them myself. So save your time, money and stress! Invest in knowledge that will pay you back again an again as you cruise. "

Lars Sandved Smith

- navika sailing / the floating studio, meet the team:, the faces behind boat electrics 101.

Author of the famous Boatowner’s Mechanical  and Electrical Manual , often referred to as the "bible for boatowners"

Nigel is a full-time sailing writer, with a focus on marine technical systems. He is often referred to as the guru when it comes to mechanical and electrical systems on boats.

His books are widely acclaimed by both boaters and professionals in the field. His most famous book, the Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual has sold well over 300,000 copies and a staggering 4,8 stars out of 1.055 ratings on Amazon.

Besides writing books, Nigel is a long-time member of the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC)  electrical  Project Technical Committee (PTC) which writes the standards for recreational boat systems in the USA, and has also been involved in European standards development. He has recently joined marine energy systems company OceanPlanet Energy as a mechanism to continue his passion of constantly improving boat electrical systems.

Jan Athenstädt

Jan runs KlabauterKiste , a German online magazine for boatowners and KlabauterShop , an online shop for boat electrics. He holds a PhD in Computer Science.

Dr. Jan Athenstädt

Jan is the youngster in the B OAT H OW T O team. During his studies of computer science in Germany and the US, he has worked as crew on various tall ships before moving aboard his own boat.

He started teaching people how to install and maintain technical systems on their boat through his online magazine KlabauterKiste and has written articles for various magazines and online publications.

He later started an online shop for boat electric supplies which he runs from his boat while sailing the Med.

Jan is also a member of the ISO TC188 committee, helping to improve and extend the standards for electrical systems on boats. 

At B OAT H OW T O he takes care of the technical side and will guide you through most of the video lessons.

Author of several books about technical equipment on boats. His book on electrical systems Elektrik auf Yachten is considered the reference for technical information in the  German language.

As (now retired) founding member of BoatHowTo Michael belongs to the rare kind of people who combine a vast theoretical knowledge with the ability to apply this to the practical world.

Besides having written seven books on the topic, he has published over 500 articles in technical magazines, mainly on the topics of boat electrics and mechanics.

Since 2007, Michael has been a member of the German Boat Builders Association committee on electrics and a member of ISO TC188 establishing standards for small craft.

His latest activity in the ISO was contributing to the merger of the two basic standards for electrical systems on recreational craft - ISO 10133 and 13297.

Michael is responsible for many of the wonderful graphical illustrations we use throughout the course.

What people say about us

small yacht electrics

Nigel Calder is universally recognized as the guru of yacht systems. His hardcover tomes grace the bookshelves of yachts the world over. On Isbjorn, his are some of my most referenced books.

Andy Schell  ‧ Skipper of ICEBEAR & ISBJORN at  59-north.com

small yacht electrics

I know quite a bit about boat technology. But Michael Herrmann is a living technical encyclopedia. There is definitely no question that remains unanswered. If I hit a dead end, he is my first point of contact. He simply knows everything, and if he doesn't know it he'll find it.

Christian Haschke  ‧ Yacht Brokerage & Service at  kornati-charter.com

small yacht electrics

Jan has a wealth of knowledge about boats and boat systems. In particular when it comes to electrics, his online shop made him a great advisor regarding the choice of the right components and their proper installation.

Laura Secorun   ‧ Managing Director at ona ocean

Is Boat Electrics 101 really for me?

Unless you are already deeply familiar with the ISO 13297 or ABYC E-11 and other electrical standards, you will get valuable information from Boat Electrics 101!

We designed the course with both beginners and experts in mind: 

The first modules cover the basics of electricity and the basic components of a boat's electrical system. They are specifically designed for beginners who have no or very little technical background.

small yacht electrics

The later modules go deeply into the specifics of the ISO and ABYC standards and contain information that is relevant for anybody who wants to extend an electrical system or plans a complete rewiring of a boat. These lessons are interesting for amateurs as well as professional boat builders.

With exclusive access to our Boat Electrics Planner tool you can design your own system and calculate the energy balance for multiple scenarios and complex boats with up to 6 separate house battery banks.

small yacht electrics

It actually isn't only a course, but it is an evolving learning platform

Miro peternelj.

Having access to up-to-date materials on Boat Electrics is very handy for someone who deals with small boat design, like me. The best part of the whole course is that it actually isn't only a course, but it is an evolving learning platform.

The course is for you if...

  • ...you want to properly understand your boat's electrics.
  • ...you want to be able to spot weak links and assess the safety of your system.
  • ...you want to be able to safely extend or even rewire your boat electrics.
  • ...you want to be self-reliant and be able to help yourself if a problem arises.

It's NOT for you if...

  • ...you are not willing to invest some time to do things right
  • ...you don't care if your boat's installation is safe and according to standards
  • ...you prefer to hire someone to do all the work on your boat
  • ...you are never further than a few miles from the next service station

small yacht electrics

What's included in our

Online course on boat electrics.

  • 59 video lessons you can watch as often as you like 
  • An increasing number of bonus lessons, including Alternative Energy Sources, LED Lighting & Troubleshooting
  • Access to the B OAT H OW T O   Boat Electrics Planner
  • Extensive case studies for three example scenarios (including wiring diagrams)
  • A quiz for every module that allows you to assess your progress
  • Exclusive access to talks from Nigel

100% Satisfaction Guaranteed

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100% Satisfaction Guarantee

You are fully protected by our 100% Satisfaction-Guarantee. If you are not convinced by our course within 60 days of your purchase, just let us know and we'll send you a prompt refund.

Nigel, Jan & Michael

Frequently Asked Questions

I know nothing about electrics. is the course still for me.

Yes! Boat electrics are not rocket science, and very little high-school math is all you will need as a prerequisite. 

However, there is a lot to learn: you will need a commitment to learning. And if you are a beginner and plan your first system, it is a good idea to also discuss your ideas with a professional.

Can I really get my money back?

Yes. If you are not happy with Boat Electrics 101 , let us know within 60 days and we will refund your purchase.

How can I access the lessons?

You can access the lessons from anywhere and watch the videos with your computer, tablet or phone. 

Is there a schedule for the lessons?

No. You can take the lessons of the course in your own speed and go back to a lesson anytime. While you can access any lesson right after you acquire access to the course, we recommend you follow them in order as they build on each other.

I am a boat surveyor. Does the course make sense for me?

Absolutely!

Unless you are already deeply familiar with the relevant ISO and/or ABYC standards, Boat Electrics 101 will help you spot weak links in boat electrical systems and help your clients determine the extent of changes required to get a safe & reliable DC system.

As a professional, you might also be interested in the bundle option with our Advanced Marine Electrics program.

Can I get a certificate for the course?

Yes! When signing up you have the option to get certified for an additional fee. We will award 19 CEUs for completion of the course. The requirement for the certificate is that you complete all lessons and get at least an 80% score on all quizzes. (Don't worry, you can take the quizzes as often as you like.)

Will there be Q&A sessions?

While we do not have dedicated office hours, we will do our best to answer any questions about the lessons that you ask in the comments section of the lessons.

Is there offline access?

Unfortunately for now you have to be online to watch the videos. We do however provide lecture notes for every lesson that also contain all the content. You can print out the HTML pages in your browser if you want to have a reference to the course material while at sea. 

Another great resource to have on board is Nigel's Boatowner's Manual! This is a great addition to our course content.

P.S. : If you have any further questions about BoatElectrics 101, don't hesitate to contact us . 

I want to understand my boat's electrical system now!

Copyright 2024  - BoatHowTo

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14 Steps To Wiring Your Boat

What you need to know to install or re-wire the electrical system on your boat. a step-by-step practical guide. covers planning, diagrams, wiring, batteries, over current protection and more..

I want to thank Ed Sherman for reviewing this page for accuracy. 

A question often asked on boating and boat building forums, and by visitors to my web site, is: “I need a simple wiring diagram for a small outboard boat to wire up the lights and few other things, but no one seems to have one. Is there one, and where can I find it? Are there a set of step-by-step instructions?” 

There are wiring diagrams, websites and forums that tell you how to wire an electrical system for large boats and bigger sailboats. But when it comes to small boats there is a distinct lack of information and diagrams for how to install a simple, safe, and reliable electrical system. 

The following is meant to apply only to small outboard boats under 16 feet with 50 or 60 horsepower or less. It can be applied to slightly larger boats that have a simple 12V DC system using one or two 12V batteries. 

Note 1 : I will not deal with the wiring specifically for the outboard motor and controls.  Here is a web site where you can obtain wiring diagrams for most outboard motors.  Most new outboards come with a wiring harness and a manual that has wiring diagrams.  See Master Tech Marine Outboard Wiring Diagrams .

Note 2:  If you are re-wiring a boat with an electrical system installed:  Don't rip out that old system yet !  Use the old system to help make a plan in steps 1 through 7.  Trace out each wire and put that on your diagram.  This will make it far easier to locate wires and equipment.  Wait until you actually start installing wiring in step 12.  Then replace each set of wires with new.  This may take a little more time, but will result in far fewer mistakes and less troubleshooting.

Note 3: Throughout this I will give references to the US Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) requirements that apply to boat manufacturers, and to the American Boat and Yacht Council industry standards. Examples: 33 CFR 183.401, or ABYC E-11. The US Coast Guard Regulations (the CFR) and the ABYC standards are good guidelines to follow for a safe and reliable electrical system. They are used by marine electricians, professional boatbuilders, designers, marine surveyors, and marine repairers. If that’s how the pros do it, so should you. 

Step 1.   Make a Plan.  Decide what you want to install, and where it will go. See Electrical Planning

Step 2. Draw a simple electrical schematic (diagram) that shows each piece of equipment, the fuses, switches, and how all of this will be connected. This is not a diagram of where the equipment is located on the boat. That will come in Step 8. It is simply a diagram of the electrical circuits. Here are two alternative examples. (Click on the diagram to expand.) The first diagram uses a positive buss bar. The second omits the positive buss bar. For clarity I did not use color codes except red (positive) and black (negative).

Do not be concerned if you don’t know electrical symbols. Just make a box or circle and write in what it is, or you can use a picture of the item. As long as you understand what goes where, and how they are connected, it’s Ok. Remember, any 12V DC device must have at least a positive and negative wire connected to it. Put a plus or minus next to the wire or use red for positive and black for negative. On metal boats do not use the hull as a return (negative) path. Connecting your electrical system to a metal hull can result in stray current corrosion.

See also BoatUS diagram:

There are several ways to draw wiring diagrams. The most important thing is that you understand what you are diagraming. It needs to be simple enough and clear enough for you to be able to refer to it in the future and still understand what each item is, what the wiring is and how each item of equipment is connected to the electrical system. That way, in the future if you want to add or subtract equipment you can do so by referring to your diagram and determining where and how the new item fits into the system.

Step 3.   Batteries: Decide where you will put the battery.  Later we will decide the capacity and type of battery but for now we only need to decide where to put it.

The battery is the source of power for starting, instrumentation, and lighting.  There may be a second battery on some boats for running a trolling motor or other equipment. 

Batteries should not be too close to anything that can cause an accidental short. There should be 12 inches of space all around them. Batteries must not be directly under or over fuel lines or under other electrical equipment such as a charger or inverter. If they are, there must be a floor or panel separating them. ABYC E-10.7.5 and 10.7.6 Storage Batteries

Batteries need to be in a space that is ventilated to the atmosphere. 33 CFR 183.420(e) This applies to all batteries, not just lead/acid batteries.

Batteries must not move, so they have to be fastened down.  33 CFR 183.420(a)

There should be a tray under a battery for spilled electrolyte, or it should be in a battery box, and fastened down so it won’t move under any conditions. (ABYC E-10.7.2) The Coast Guard does not require a tray or a battery box but ABYC does require some means to contain spills. If it is strapped down in a tray, spilled acid won’t damage the boat and the battery won’t move. The terminals need to be covered with a boot or some other device that protects them from accidental contact with metal tools. But, if the battery is in a box the terminals are protected against accidental contact with tools, spills are contained, and it won’t move.

The battery should be close to the engine.  Since starting current is so high, and the wires to the starter are not fused, you want to keep the wires as short as is practical. 

The battery should be a combo starting/deep cycle battery, usually sold as a marine battery. An auto battery would do for starting and lights. But, for running a radio, and other electronics while anchored or fishing, a battery with a little deep cycle capacity is needed so the battery doesn’t go flat and leave you stranded when you try to restart the engine.

How big a battery (capacity, not physical size) do you need? That depends on the amount of load on the battery. I will show how to determine that in Step 12.

There is one non-electrical consideration; weight. Lead acid batteries can weigh up to 50 lb. Think about how the weight of the battery will affect weight distribution on your boat, especially if it is on the same side as the helm and controls. You may have to move it to balance the boat side to side. If you have a very low transom, how will the weight of the battery affect the water line at the transom?

Step 4. Battery Switch: Some people think that a battery switch is not necessary on a small boat. I think a battery switch is necessary to turn everything off when you are not using the boat.

Where the battery is located determines where the battery switch goes. It should be close to the battery but easily accessible to be switched off in an emergency. ABYC E-11.6.2.

A good brand is Perko but there are others. Avoid any battery switch that is not UL Marine Listed. There are cheap ones on the market that are not UL listed and can get hot and melt.

A battery switch must be ignition protected. (33 CFR 183.410)

Ignition protection means that it will not ignite gas fumes if they are present. This is extremely important if you have a gasoline fuel tank in the same compartment as the battery.

Use only ignition protected electrical components. You don't want anything in there that will set fuel vapors off. Batteries are not considered a source of ignition because there are no moving parts, but if you make accidental contact with metal tools it can create an arc. So, the terminals must be protected, and battery switches and other electrical equipment in this compartment must be ignition protected.

Buy a switch that has a provision for two batteries because you may want to add a battery in the future. The switch will have three positions. OFF, 1, 2, and BOTH. The 1 position connects the one battery and allows charging of that battery when the engine is running (if your outboard is large enough to have an alternator). The 2 position connects and charges the second battery, if there is one, and the BOTH position puts the two batteries in parallel doubling the battery capacity and charging both at the same time. You won’t need the BOTH and 2 positions now, but this gives you the option to add a second battery.

Step 5.  Fuses: Next, install a fuse block close to the battery switch. Fuses must be within seven inches of the source of power (33 CFR 183.455) but you can go up to forty inches if the wire is sheathed. Standard wire loom is fine as a sheath. Be aware, the fuse is there to protect the wire, not the equipment. If you overload wiring it gets hot, melts and starts a fire. We will determine the size of the fuse later. See Step 12. Buy a fuse block with two fuse holders. That way you have a spare if the fuse blows. This is generally a good idea. When installing fuse blocks get ones with more fuse holders than you think you need. You will need them eventually. One or two extra fuse holders is good.

Step 6.  Equipment Location: Determine where each piece of equipment will be.

Think about where you want things to go. Depth finders need to be where they are easy to see, but not blocking your vision when operating the boat. Radios should be where they can be easily reached, and for VHF, reach the mike. The back of the console or surface you are mounting them on needs to be easily accessible for access to the wiring.  

Step 7 .  Locate the fuses, buss bars and switch panels. 

Decide where to put fuse boxes, buss bars, switch panels, etc. Each of these must be close to the equipment they power, and easily accessible to be worked on. They cannot be hidden behind equipment or inaccessible panels. This may sound obvious, but I have seen some very bad installations. Also, they should be protected from spray or rain.

Most electrical and electronic equipment comes with pigtails. Pigtails are wires coming out of the equipment and may only be a few inches to several feet long. Sometimes they have a connector attached to the ends of the wire. When determining where stuff goes consider the length of the pigtails, because you don’t want a rat’s nest of wires hanging loose.

Switch boxes: A box or panel where switches can be mounted to control stuff. On a small outboard boat this is usually the dash or the console. 

Fuse block: A panel with fuse sockets on it. It can be open or covered.

Buss bar:  A block with studs for connecting wires.

Typical Buss Bar: This buss bar is for the negative wires. The large wire on the left is the battery negative.

There are some devices that are connected directly to the source of power and do not go through fuse blocks and switches. They need to always have power. One is the bilge pump. Bilge pumps may have a float switch that automatically turns the pump on when water in the bilge gets to a preset height. This won’t work if the pump is not wired directly to the battery. It is not good practice to wire it directly to the battery though. Wire it to the power input side of the battery switch. It is good to install a switch at the helm that turns the pump on manually.

If your boat has an anchor light, you may also want to wire the switch for the light directly to the power input side of the battery switch. That way you can turn on the anchor light when the battery switch is off.

Step 8.  Make a diagram of the boat showing where the wiring, equipment and fuse blocks will be located.

Make a rough drawing of the boat looking down from the top. This is called a general arrangement and shows how the boat is laid out. Using your electrical schematic, put in where the equipment, fuse boxes, buss bars, switch boxes and wiring are going to go. Check this against the actual boat to make sure you aren’t missing something.

Wiring cannot go through pieces of equipment, pipes, tubes, and other solid objects. They can go through walls and bulkheads and panels. Wiring must be easily accessible for installation, trouble shooting and replacement. It must be fastened down at least every 18 inches (ABYC 11.15.4.1.9) so it isn’t or chafing on something. Where wiring goes through a bulkhead, wall or panel, it must have a grommet or padding to protect the wire. 33 CFR 183.445(a)

Your diagram may look something like this; (Click on image to expand)

Boat wiring diagram

Step 9.  Wiring: Figure out how much wire you need, what size wire you need, and what color it should be. Wire standards.

What about the wires from the battery Switch to the starter? The wire needs to be a very heavy gauge, at least a 4 AWG on small outboard boats, because starters draw a lot of current. Both the positive and negative wires should be the same size. If the outboard has the wires for the starter already installed, the wires from the battery to the switch should be the same size as those wires. The engine manufacturer has determined the amount of amperage the starter draws and correctly sized the wires for the load.

The positive wire (red) goes from the battery to the input side of the battery switch. The negative (black) wire goes to a buss bar. One post on the buss is for the wire from battery to the engine block (ground). Another wire goes from the buss up forward to the dash. The others are for other equipment. There should be as many terminal posts as you need plus a few extra.

Color Codes: The positive wire should be red. Negative can be black, or yellow, or black with a yellow stripe. Throughout the boat negative wires should be black or yellow or a combination. AT the dash or console, all positive wires from the fuse block to the instruments and the equipment, should be color coded using the standard color codes for marine wiring. Direct Current Color Codes: From ABYC E-11.15.2.3 Table 11 and Table 12.

Direct Current Color Codes: From ABYC E-11.15.2.3 Table 11 and Table 12.

 Color codes tell you what the wire is for. But label the wire on both ends. A simple piece of tape with a name written on it will do. They do not need to be fancy labels, but if you prefer, you can buy labels at electrical suppliers or hardware stores.

Wire must be marine wire. (33 CFR Sec. 183.435) Do not use auto wire. It is not made to the same standards as marine. Most marine wire is labeled UL 1426. It must be copper stranded wire. It does not have to be tinned, although tinned wire will last longer. On a small boat it is not necessary. Do not scrimp on wire though! Cheap wire could mean the difference between a reliable system and one that you constantly have trouble with. Buy good quality wire. I have seen 100 ft spools of Ancor 16 AWG Tinned Marine Wire for sale on-line for as little as $24.00 USD.  

What size wire? American Wire Gauge (AWG) is in reverse order. The larger the number, the thinner the wire. The thickest wires are 00 or 0 AWG. The smallest gauge allowed on boats for a single wire is 16 AWG, or 18 AWG if it’s in a bundle or sheath (33CFR 183.425), but this may be way too thin for the equipment or the length of the wire run. The only exception to this is wire inside electronic devices or part of the electronic controls on the engine. 33 CFR 183.425(g)

The thicker a wire is, the less resistance it has. The longer a wire is the more resistance it has, and so there is a larger voltage drop. You want to minimize the resistance and the voltage drop. So you first need to figure out the wire size based on how many amps are being used, and then by how long the wire is. Use the tables in Appendix A, at the end of this page, to determine the correct size. Don't just guess at wire size and buy larger diameter wire such as 14 or 12 AWG. See Wire Size:

For the purpose of determining wire size, the fuse block the wire is coming from is considered the source of power. For the wires running from the battery to the starter, or to the under-dash fuse block, the battery is the source of power. In the two examples below the fuse block under the dash or console is the source of power.

Here is an example:  

A Hummingbird Model 345C depth sounder draws 380ma (milliamps from the specifications). The installation includes a 6 foot power cable of 18 AWG wire. This may be fine for connecting it to a fuse block near the dash. But we need to size the cable running from the battery to the dash. It is going to be at least 10-12 feet long on a 16 foot boat. Double that length for the negative return wire. 

Use table 3 in The Appendix for voltage drop. Most boat manufactures use wire rated for 105C (degrees Celsius - the temperature rating of the insulation on the wire). Looking at the table under the column for 105C we see amperages starting at 20 amps, 25 amps, 30 amps, and so on. Following the row for 20 amps to the left column we find 18 AWG.

From the table on voltage drop an 18 AWG wire 20-24 feet long (30 feet in the table) with a 15-ampere load will have less than a 10% voltage drop. But it can only be 18 if it’s in a sheath or bundle. So go up one size to 16 AWG.

Another Example:

Suppose I have three electronics running off a fuse block in the dash or console. Each piece of equipment requires 1 amp at 12 volts to run. The total amperage for the three items is 3 amps. From the fuse block in the dash or console to each item of equipment, there is a positive wire from the fuse to the equipment, and a negative wire running back to the buss. Using 1 ampere, we determine the size the wire should be, by using table 1 and 3 in Appendix A. For instance, if the positive wire is two feet long then the total length of positive and negative wires is 4 feet. Looking at the Table 1, the line for 18 AWG wire at 105C allows up to 20 amps.

So, we could use 18 AWG. Look at Table 3. We see that an 18 AWG wire, 10 feet long, will have less than a 10% voltage drop for up to 5 amperes. Again, we could use 18 AWG but since 18 AWG wire has to be in a bundle or a sheath we add a level of safety by using 16 AWG.

This is done using the tables developed by the US Coast Guard and ABYC. You don’t have to know any formulas to figure it out. The first table determines the wire size based on the load in amps and the second table the size depending on length and voltage drop. You use the larger wire if there is a difference.

See the table in Appendix A at the bottom of this page. or ELECTRICAL TABLE: 33 CFR 183.42: ALLOWABLE AMPERAGE OF CONDUCTORS FOR UNDER 50 VOLTS   or: ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS VOLTAGE DROP

Step 10.  Wiring tools. Wire connections (terminals).   See Connectors :

Tools: Use good quality tools, especially good quality crimpers and wire strippers. Cheap crimpers make bad crimps. Bad crimps make bad connections. Poor wire strippers nick the metal conductor which may cause the wire to break or have a high resistance.   See My Page on Practical:

Wire terminals must be used . Connections should never be a bare wire wrapped around a stud or post. This is bad practice, and can easily come loose or result in a high resistance connection. High resistance equals heat, which results in fire. Never use wire nuts to connect wires on a boat! They are prone to vibration and corrosion. ABYC E-11.15.3.7 Twist-on connectors (i.e., wire nuts) shall not be used.

Use crimp type ring or captive spade terminals. Captive spade terminals have a tang on the ends. This prevents them from being pulled off or slipping off the stud or post. Connections must resist being pulled off. In the ABYC wire standard there is a table listing how much of a pull they must withstand depending on the size of the wire. A 16 AWG wire must withstand a ten lb. pull. A 4 AWG wire must withstand a 70lb pull.

You can solder connections if you like but crimp them first . ABYC standards do not prohibit soldering, but they do not allow soldering to be the sole source of support for the connection. (ABYC E-11.5.3.8) This is because solder creates a hard spot in the wire which is not as flexible as the wire itself and not as resistant to flexing and vibration. So, if you solder you must also crimp. Crimp first, then solder.

Seal wire connections with a good waterproof sealant , usually marketed as dielectric grease. There is no requirement to do this, but it prevents water from getting in the connection and wicking up the inside of the wire insulation or corroding the connector.

My method.   I do not solder.  First I slide a short length of heat shrink tubing onto the wire. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat-shrink_tubing   How long it is depends on the wire and connector size.  Usually if the tubing extends about 1/2 inch (1 centimeter) beyond the end of the connector, that is enough.  Then I use dielectric grease. See Wikipedia on Dielectric grease . Dielectric grease is non-conductive grease, usually silicone that is also waterproof and can be used to seal connectors. Before crimping the wire in the connector, I squirt a little dielectric grease into the connector where the wire goes. I then insert the wire and crimp it. Then I slide the tubing down over the connector and shrink it with a heat gun or hair drier so it seals itself around the wire and connector. The combination of grease and heat shrink tubing should keep the water out. 

Heat Shrink Tubing And Connectors, AAA protection, How to install and repair.  http://youtu.be/jCRsx38WRw8

How to get a good crimp: Marine How to: Wire terminations:   https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/

Step 11.   Fuses .  How big should your fuses be? 

Fuses are rated by amperage and protect the wire from overheating and fire. Fuses must be rated at the same or less rating of the wire. If you have a wire that is rated at 15 amps you need a 15 amp fuse. Each circuit is rated for a certain amperage, such as 15 amps or 20 amps, and more equipment is not added to the circuit if it would cause it to draw more current than the fuse is rated for.

This can become an issue on little boats too if you have more equipment, or something like a powerful stereo system that draws a lot of amperage. Then it should have its own circuit and its own fuse for the circuit. 

The question is how many fuses in the block?  That depends on how much stuff you are running.  I would have a fuse for the lights, one for the instrumentation, and one for any electronic devices, plus a spare.  That is four.  But for expansion maybe a six or 8 fuse block would be better. Again, in the future you won’t have to buy a new block.  See Overcurrent Protection:

Step 12.   Installing equipment .  

Start with the battery, the battery switch, and the main fuse block. 

Selecting a Battery: Batteries are rated by voltage and capacity. We are using a 12V battery. There are two ratings, CCA and MCA  See Batteries at:

CCA Means Cold Cranking Amps. MCA means Marine Cranking Amps. These are measures of how many amps the battery can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain the voltage at 12V. Basically the higher the CCA rating the longer the battery will maintain its voltage. Batteries are also rated by amp-hours. 1 amp for 1 hour is 1 amp-hr. Generally the rating is based on how many amps the battery will discharge for 20 hours until the charge drops to 10.5 volts. The higher the amp hour rating, the longer the battery will power your equipment. Also, batteries are rated for Reserve Capacity which is how many minutes it will deliver the same voltage at 80 degrees. An average marine battery should have a Reserve Capacity of 60 to 90 minutes. Anything less is not adequate.

There are four types of batteries commonly used on boats, Wet Cell (also called lead acid, flooded, or flooded lead acid, and sometimes abbreviated FLA), AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat, Gel, and Lithium, but for now I’ll stick with the standard wet-cell battery. They are relatively inexpensive, can be purchased anywhere, and for a small boat, more than adequate. A battery with a CCA or MCA rating of 200-300 should do but we’ll determine that when we calculate the loads. See table below on how to calculate loads. Battery Capacity should be at least twice the load. 

To calculate loads, list the equipment you are planning on installing. In the chart below the following items are listed. Navigation lights Bilge Pump Radio (Only when receiving) Depth Sounder engine electrical Instruments GPS Bait well pump Horn Radio TX. (VHF Marine radio. It draws more when transmitting)

Determine from the specifications for each item what the current load is in amps.  Separate them into continuous loads (on all the time) and intermittent loads (only on when used). Determine how many hours they will be used. Multiply the amps times the hours to get amp hours. Add up the amp hours.

See Also Electrical Planning

Double the result to determine what the rating of the battery should be. For this case, 200.

Another consideration is the battery group size. Batteries come in different physical sizes. A Group 24 battery is 10 ¼ inches by 6 13/16 inches by 8 7/8 inches. A Group 27 battery is 12 1/6 inches by 6 13/16 by 8 7/8 inches. The physical size is determined mainly by how much space you have for the battery and its weight. A bigger battery weighs more. A large group size does not necessarily mean it will last longer. That is determined by the battery ratings for amp hours and reserve capacity. The most commonly used size on small boats is Group 27. 

Install the battery box if you are using one, or a tray, then the battery. Now that you have installed a battery you can begin installing equipment. Install lights and electronic equipment. You want everything in place before you begin wiring. Put in switch panels and fuse blocks.

From Step 5. We need to determine the size of the main fuse at the battery. The continuous loads add up to 10.5 amps. The fuse in a DC circuit should be about 150% of the load so a 15 amp would be appropriate. (ABYC E-11.10.1.5.)

The fuses for each circuit of our example should be at least 3 amps except for the VHF radio because on transmit it draws 6 amps. So, use a 10 amp fuse for the radio circuit. Check the manufacturer's installation instructions for recommended fuse sizes for each piece of equipment. Remember, this fuse is to protect the wire to the equipment, not the equipment. Some equipment may have built in or in-line fuses for that purpose.

Step 13. Installing Wire:  

Begin installing wire, starting at the battery and working outward to each fuse block and buss bar, and then on to each piece of equipment. Remember to follow the color codes and label the wires on both ends. If you decide to make any variations from your diagrams make sure you change the diagram for future reference.

Step 14. Turn on the power. Test by turning on each item, one at a time, to see if it works. Troubleshoot as you go. If there is a problem, fix it before you proceed. Once everything has been tested individually, turn on everything, one at a time, until everything is on. If a fuse blows or something doesn’t work the last item you turned on is where the problem lies. Turn everything off, fix it and then try again from the beginning.

An  Excellent Article:  Avoiding Boat Electrical Mistakes by Ed Sherman;  Boat US Magazine https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2016/august/avoiding-boat-electrical-mistakes

An excellent article by Owen Youngblood on Wiring Your Boat , from the Metal Boat Quarterly

How to Wire A Boat from New Wire Marine https://newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/

The USCG Boat Builders Handbook for Electrical Systems is available on-line at https://safeafloat.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/I-Electrical-Systems-Final-4-14.pdf

Contact ABYC for a copy of E-11, AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats. There is a fee. See: https://abycinc.org

Appendix A:   Allowable Amperage and Voltage Drop Tables

Note: This is the table that is in the Federal Regulations. The Federal Regulation now uses the ABYC table. It is published in 33 CFR Subpart I sec 183.425. ABYC Standard E-11 has five separate tables based on how many conductors are in a wire bundle.

The table for voltage drop is below. This is only for 12V DC. Contact ABYC for a copy of E-11, AC and DC Electrical Systems on Boats. There is a fee. See: https://abycinc.org

This is the table to determine wire size due to voltage drop based on the length of the wire. This table is for 12 volts only. The top row is the length of the wire in feet. The first column below Total Amps, is the amount of maximum amperage. The number in the row to the right of the total Amps column, is the size of the wire for a 10% or less voltage drop. Example: 25 feet of wire (top row) at 15 amps (first column) the wire would be 14 AWG.

Navigation Lights: I added this section because many people asked for it.

Wiring Navigation Lights for boats with combination red/green bow lights and an anchor/sternlight on a pole. I have been asked many times if there is a standard wiring diagram for hooking up the lights on a small outboard or inboard boat. There are some variations on this but here is how I did it on my boat.

The below diagram is for small boats with a red/green combo light on the bow, and a single sternlight that can also be used as an anchor light. Usually these have a single switch with 3 positions; Off, 1. anchor light, 2. combo bow light, sternlight/anchor light, and instrument lights. The diagram shows a Cole-Hersee switch that is in common use, but there are other manufacturers that also make switches for this, such as BEM and Blue Seas. They all serve the same function. In this diagram the lights are wired directly to the battery. However, some people prefer to wire it through the battery switch so the battery is not discharged if the lights are accidentally left on. It is just a matter of switching the power wire from B on the lights switch, to the number one position on the battery switch.

navigation light wiring

© newboatbuilders.com 2007 All rights reserved. revised 03/17/2023

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14 Speedy Battery-Powered Boats Bringing the Electric Revolution to the Water

The once disregarded concept is now coming of age in real time..

  • Share This Article

Say Carbon Yachts 29 E

Even two years ago, the idea of electric-powered watercraft was confined mostly to cool-looking sketches. The notion didn’t carry much credibility in the boating world, since water’s high drag caused batteries to deplete quickly and severely limited range. And who wants to be stuck offshore with dead batteries?

Technology may have finally caught up to the concept, with more than two dozen builders (and counting) having recently launched new EV runabouts. Range remains the restricting factor, but these inshore craft now make sense to four-wheeled EV owners who understand the charging routine. In return: no emissions, instant acceleration and silent running, likely acceptable tradeoffs for boaters who typically use their vessels for only limited periods, anyway. Which means right now we’re watching electric boats come of age in real time. Here are 14 models leading the pack.

Navier 27 Foiler

small yacht electrics

The Navier 27, which is being built at the Lyman-Morse shipyard in Maine, promises to be a ground-breaker when it launches next fall. The electric boat is built on three retractable hydrofoils (one at the bow and two at the stern) that provide speed, range and efficiency. Navier founders Sampriti Bhattacharyya and Reo Baird, two MIT-educated engineers who both have backgrounds in aerospace, decided to put their knowledge to work with the 27. They’ve assembled a team of experts in hydrofoil design, software engineering and hull design to create what they think is a sustainable dayboat (with an overnighting cabin) that will appeal to most boater profiles. The Navier 27 will have a top speed of 30 knots, and at 20 knots, it will have a 70-mile range. The futuristic boat retails for $300,000.

Learn More: Here

small yacht electrics

With a length of nearly 35 feet and top end of 40.2 mph, the Lion shows that electric boats can be authentic weekend yachts. The first production model, currently in build at Maine’s Hodgdon shipyard, will be available in late summer. The boat has a propietary Vita V4 operating system that recharges in under an hour, with electric motors that generate 590 hp and a modern touchscreen interface at the helm. Its open layout, double sunbed aft and open stern, with steps down to the water, reflect contemporary dayboat designs. The boat also has a cabin that can be outfitted with a berth and head. With a base price of $1.5 million, the Lion is an exciting new trend for owners that want an authentic sustainable boat for coastal cruising. 

Say Carbon Yachts 29 E

small yacht electrics

This sleek hot rod is the electric version of the popular 29 from Say Carbon , the German yard known for lightweight, ultrafast sport boats with minimalist, luxury interiors. Built from carbon fiber, the $450,000 29 E clocks in under 4,400 pounds and is powered by a 360 kw Kreisel electric motor and 120 kw battery. The company claims it’s the world’s fastest electric boat under 33 feet, with a top speed of 57 mph. Of course, all that velocity comes at the expense of range, but at 25 mph it delivers a respectable ambit of 31 miles. Meanwhile, the built-in charger completes a full recharge in six hours.

Q Yachts Q30

q30, Q-Yachts. Kuva: Lauri Rotko

Designed with aesthetics over speed in mind, this 30-footer from Finnish builder Q Yachts is an ideal lake boat. Top speed is just 16 mph, but at 7 mph it delivers a range of 70 miles, or 10 hours of running time. Starting at $208,000, the Q30 has a cabin for overnighting, complete with fridge, water and electric toilet. Plus, it can be charged with a standard plug.

Marian M 800 Spyder

small yacht electrics

This new bowrider has a retro, almost Riva-esque look, and since the Austrian yard Marian builds only electric boats, it has the advantage of a hull designed specifically for extended range. The M 800 Spyder can be outfitted with four different power options, from a 60 kw motor meant for puttering around a lake up to an electrifying 150 kw inboard with 125 kw lithium-ion batteries that delivers a top speed of 39 mph and enough torque to allow the M 800, priced from $270,000, to double as a towboat. At a more leisurely 18 mph, expect a range of up to 30 nautical miles.

Rand Escape 30

small yacht electrics

Designed as a high-performing electric boat with a wave-piercing hull, this 30-footer was also built light to maximize range: Rand claims the Escape 30 has 30 to 50 percent lower electric consumption than similar-sized boats. Its motors run the gamut from 105 to 460 kw, all paired with correspondingly sized lithium-ion batteries. The open-bow 30-footer starts at about $195,000, can carry up to 12 people and has five different seating areas, including a rear-facing lounge over the swim platform, plus an overnight cabin with head. The hard-top design makes the Escape 30 more of a serious coastal boat than others on this list, though your range will vary depending on engine size (and your personal need for speed).

X Shore Eelex 8000

small yacht electrics

The instant thrust of this Swedish-built 26-footer, thanks to its 225 kw Brusa electric motor, was an absolute thrill when running the boat on the Intracoastal Waterway off Palm Beach, and the highly respectable 34.9 mph top end competes with many traditionally powered vessels in the same class. The hull was made of recycled plastic and flax fabric (an upgrade from the standard fiberglass/carbon-fiber weave), and instead of teak soles, X Shore used cork, which provides uncompromising grip while being more ecologically sustainable. Twin 60 kw lithium-ion Kreisel batteries can be replenished in under two and a half hours with a supercharger. Even blazing down the ICW, the 8000, priced from $329,000, sounds more like a sailboat than a runabout.

Boesch 750 Portofino Deluxe

small yacht electrics

If it’s classic runabout looks that invoke a certain feeling of dolce vita that you’re looking for in your electric boat, then look no further than the 750 Portofino De Luxe from Boesch . With a spacious sunpad aft, a retractable soft top, and an automotive-inspired windshield, the boat checks a lot of boxes for both style and practicality. At 25 mph this boat has a battery life of 70 minutes, making it an excellent choice when you need a steed to guide you towards a crisp Aperol spritz and a delicious lakeside nosh.

Correct Craft Ingenity 23E

small yacht electrics

With room for up to 11 people, the Ingenity 23E is built for a party—with minimal environmental impact. The boat’s bow features round-robin seating that enhances conversation, while the transom is open for unencumbered movement, to and from the water. The bow also offers easy access to sandbars and beaches. A 126kW engine allows the 23E to travel for 14 hours at slow speeds, though if need be the boat can reach 30 mph.

Spirit Foiler

small yacht electrics

British builder Spirit Yachts has collaborated with America’s Cup veteran BAR Technologies for a hydrofoiling electric vessel with a Torqeedo engine that lends it a relatively leggy 100-mile range. The boat will get up on its foils at 16 mph, cruise at 25 mph, and hit a very respectable top end of 34 mph. Added benefits of the foils include a smoother ride not susceptible to rougher waters, as well as aided efficiency. What’s more, the Spirit’s super-sleek, raceboat profile will immediately make it pop out at near any port of call.

Hermes Speedster E

small yacht electrics

It’s tough to beat the Greek-built Hermes Speedster E when it comes to looks. The sleek, retro-inspired design has loads of tumblehome and comes in a large variety of customizable colors. A design motif that is reminiscent of mid-20th century Porsche roadsters has made the Speedster a runaway hit at recent boat shows. Now outfitted with a 134kW electric motor that offers an unexpectedly brisk top speed of 45 mph, the runabout promises to gain even more new fans. With room for four and notably low trim angles, the Hermes is an excellent pick for a fun cruise up the ICW—just don’t expect not to attract any attention.

Candela C-8

small yacht electrics

The C-8 from Swedish builder Candela is instantly recognizable at sea because of its hyrdofoiling technology that has it literally floating above the water. The foils mean the boat is more efficient because it has less drag and is not particularly vulnerable to rougher conditions. And it barely leaves a wake. At 27 mph, the boat has a range of 50 nautical miles and the engines can charge in just two hours. The Candela also sleeps two adults and two children, which makes it a true family boat.

Magonis Wave e-550

small yacht electrics

At first glance, this electric bowrider has an almost 1970s Mini Cooper sensibility—a small 16-foot hull with as much interior space as possible. The boat made its public debut last summer at the Venice Boat Show, powered by a 10kW Torqeedo electric motor. It recently upped the power by 300 percent with a 30kW Mag Power motor. That turned it from a canal cruiser into a coastal vessel that reaches 22 knots. The boat was designed around the engines to perform well at both low and high speeds. At three knots, it has a range of 10 hours. Despite the small hull, the designers used every inch to maximize the experience, from the open stern to the open-bow configuration. Fit and finish is excellent, with options like a full teak deck, fridge, shower, and telescopic table. Instead of the typical helm console, Magonis substituted a 13-inch, waterproof iPad that can stay with the owner at all times. The starting price is about $36,500.

small yacht electrics

Minimalist is a good descriptor for Zin ’s 20-foot Z2R runabout. Fast is another one, since the runabout boasts a top speed of 35 mph. The company says the boat’s average range is 80 to 100 miles, and in an uncharacteristic display of transparency, claims it only costs $6 to charge. Compare that to the gallons a similar-sized gas powerboat would consume on a Saturday afternoon, especially in these times of rising fuel prices. The boat is powered by a Torqeedo motor and BMWi3 battery. It has carbon-fiber construction for light weight and structural stiffness, and is trailerable. The flat foredeck also makes it easy to get on and off the Z2R from the bow, and an 18-inch draft lets it come up to the beach on a secluded island.

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Electrical Consultation and Design

Small Boat Electrical

The focus of this month’s article is electrical systems on boats under 10 metres.  Often referred to as “small” boats in this market, they pack a lot of electrical punch.  Along with advanced electronic navigation equipment and fishing gear, many boats in this size range also include all of the common conveniences of home including a refrigerator, microwave, heater, stove, stereo, and lights throughout.  The main challenge that these boats face is finding space to mount all the hardware (batteries, inverter, solar panels, fuel cell) to make the boat as comfortable as possible

Starting Batteries vs. House Batteries.  In this size range, batteries serve two purposes whether they are flooded lead acid or AGM lead acid.  If choosing flooded lead acid batteries, a boater should choose the right battery for the right application. Starting batteries, optimized for high currents for short periods of time, and deep cycle or house batteries, for lower currents for long periods of time. Some boaters are tempted to get a dual-purpose flooded battery as a way of getting both a starter and deep-cycle profile in one battery. Unfortunately, a dual-purpose battery is neither great at starting or deep cycle applications, if possible it is better to get a dedicated battery for each purpose. In our experience these dual purpose batteries don't really do either well.  We always recommend if your boat is away from shore power and you are have electrical loads while the engine is off then you should have two batteries.  The batteries should be installed so that they can be charged simultaneously but discharged independently.  With this setup, you can use either battery to start the engine using a simple OFF-1-BOTH-2 switch.  There is nothing more frustrating than spending the day on the water, listening to music, relaxing and then pulling up the anchor only to realize that the boat won't start.  By moving the switch to "2" (for your house battery), you do not run the risk of discharging your "1" or starter battery.

Working With Limited Space.  You can’t create more space on your boat so you have to figure out ways to use the space you have more effectively.  Since AGMs provide more usable battery capacity for the same battery size, the easiest and fastest way is to swap out your flooded lead acid batteries for AGMs.  Absorbed Glass Mat technology was introduced in the mid-80’s for military aircraft because the batteries were spill-proof, maintenance-free and offered a greater depth of discharge (70-80% for AGMs versus 50% for flooded).  AGMs come in the same sizes as flooded, for instance group 24, 27, 31, even the popular 4D, 8D, and golf cart size. More usable battery capacity with AGMs can translate to increased battery capacity if you keep the same number of batteries or alternatively you can reduce the battery bank size and still have the same amount of usable capacity. For instance, 4 golf cart AGMs will provide about the same amount of usable amp-hours as 6 flooded golf cart flooded batteries. It is up to you to decide how you should benefit from AGM: increase usable capacity and keep the same amount of batteries or keep the usable capacity the same and reduce your batteries by one-third. The only downside is that AGMs are almost twice as expensive. It is worth noting that AGM lead acid batteries can be installed as a starting or deep cycle battery and work well at both.

The most recent entry into the marine battery market is the Firefly Oasis, a carbon foam AGM.  These batteries are a great option for anyone who wants the most usable battery capacity of a lead acid battery. The firefly can easily handle delivering 80% of usable battery capacity (depth of discharge to 20%) and still offer 3 times the battery life of a standard AGM battery. An equally interesting benefit is that the firefly oasis battery can stay in a partial state of discharge i.e. never brought back to 100% indefinitely and still never lose any capacity. Once charged back, the battery will still provide 100% of the stated battery capacity. It is an especially useful battery for anyone who spends long amounts of time away from shorepower. Firefly Oasis batteries have carbon foam imbedded into the lead grid structure found in conventional batteries.  This foam allows the battery to operate or be stored at a partial state of charge for long periods without the risk of sulfation. In other words this battery doesn’t suffer from sulphization the way other batteries do

Once you have increased your battery capacity, it is important to have an efficient means of charging your batteries.  The first thing to consider is your alternator, this is the device that converts your engine’s mechanical energy into DC electrical energy.  The higher your engine’s RPMs, the more energy that is going into your batteries.  If you are idling at anchor, it will take much longer to charge your batteries than if you are motoring to your next destination. If it takes too long to recharge your batteries while underway it is worth considering upgrading your stock alternator to a larger size and also think of swapping your built-in regulator for an external smart regulator. Either one of these upgrades can easily increase your alternator output by 50% to 100%.

The Smart Charger.  To make the most of the energy going into your batteries, we recommend a 3-phase smart charger.  Lead acid batteries (including AGMs) follow the bulk, absorption and float charge curve.  In order to maximize the efficiency of your charging while off the dock, it is advisable to stay within the bulk charge.  Which means, you don’t need to charge past 80 to 85 percent unless you have AC shorepower or are underway.  These chargers are safe, easy to use and will not overcharge your batteries.

Once you have configured your battery capacity, maximized your alternator output and charging system, we highly recommend installing a battery monitor.  It is a fuel gauge for your batteries and will offer you more control of your system and extend the life of the batteries.  There is a new Bluesea’s M2 DC SoC battery monitor that allows you to see your voltage, amperage and battery state of charge on one screen.  This is a great improvement from older monitors that you would have to toggle through multiple screens to get each piece of information.

The configurations for boats under 30 feet are endless, and should be based on the way you use your boat.  If you want to leave all the electronic distractions behind and just go sailing, then a basic setup is the way to go.  If you want to anchor for two or three days at a time or dock at an outstation with no power, then adding solar or a fuel cell may be the perfect solution.  The best starting point is to determine how much power you will use on a daily basis and then design a system from there.

Here are some typical examples that we see on a regular basis:

If you have a small runabout, consider purchasing a pocket size battery jump starter like the Weego.  It comes with jumper cables, LED flashlight, strobe light, SOS functions and a wall/car charger.

When using a windlass to bring up your anchor, increase the RPMs on your engine to offset the draw.

About the author:  Jeff Cote is the owner of Pacific Yacht Systems, a full service shop delivering marine electrical and navigation solutions for recreational boats. Visit their website and blog for info and articles on marine electrical systems, projects and more:  www.pysystems.ca.

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small yacht electrics

8 Most Elegant Small Electric Boats For Lakes

8 Most Elegant Small Electric Boats For Lakes

Unless you are signing up for what is known as the “Everest of the Seas”- the Vendee Globe , then traveling 30 knots or higher is unnecessary and, to be frank, not that comfortable.

But, if cruising along the coastline or boating around the lake is closer to your family’s vision, then an electric-powered boat could be an excellent fit for you.

Stay tuned as I am about to share the 8 Most Elegant Small Electric Boats that you should consider for your lake cruising fun.

Table of Contents

The Power of Electricity

Pros of small electric boats, electricity: the new maritime goldmine, what you need to look for, 8 best small electric boats for lakes.

The Power of Electricity

The wisdom behind an electric-powered boat is not a contemporary idea at all. In all actuality, the concept of fuel-alternative power has been around since the 1800s.

The conception of an electric-powered vessel was both innovative and way ahead of its times; however, the fossil fuel industry engulfed this idea and forcefully created a diversion to slow down or eliminate the progression of electric boating.

Heather Farmbrough reports in her Forbes Magazine article that “shipping accounts for 13% of sulfur oxide emissions and 15% of nitrous oxide emissions worldwide.”

What does this mean? Any preliminary research will reveal that the boating industry’s regulations on fossil fuel pollution are far behind that of the auto industry. In addition, the rules that are in place seem to place restrictions on larger vessels that operate far at sea.

So, unfortunately, historically poor restrictions and quasi-inexistent regulation for small boats cause increasing concern for our ocean environment and wildlife.

An electric-powered boat may depend on electricity alone or even a hybrid alternative like cars. However, for the most part, small boats (sailboats, inflatables, dinghies, etc.) can rely on electricity alone in the form of an electric outboard motor.

Owners of larger boats may prefer the inboard motor configuration to store battery packs in a cooler environment. In addition, larger vessels that operate for longer hours and who plan to remain at sea for extended periods will benefit from employing multiple power sources to conserve battery power for the most critical times.

Some of the more common hybrid configurations include “wind power (conventional cloth or solar-impregnated sails and/or small wind turbines), solar panels, nuclear, hydrogen fuel cells, diesel, biofuel or petrol generators .”

Pros of Small Electric Boats

#1) Stay Green – There is nothing better than an environmentally conscious boat-owner. Given our place and advantage in creation, we have an ethical responsibility to put measures to protect and sustain our environment with all the various species we cohabitate. Electric-powered boats are just one contribution to humanity that allows you and me to enjoy our Earth’s waters without causing harm to the environment.

#2) Boundaryless – Solar and electric-powered engines do not impose risks to the environment. As a boat owner, you will face minimum, if any at all, restrictions when traveling through or near protected areas.

#3) Multiple Power Sources – Boats running on electricity can be paired with wind, solar, nuclear, hydrogen, diesel, biofuel, or petrol generating sources.

#4) Quiet – Not only do electric-powered vessels reduce marine pollution in the form of fossil fuel release, but the silent engines help prevent unnecessary stress on marine wildlife. Take a peek at Konrad Bergström’s X Shore Eelex project to understand the vision for a cleaner maritime boating future.

#5) Versatile – Electric motors are versatile and have small and large vessel applications. It appears that Norway may be in the lead with larger electric-powered vessels to include a cruise ship that completed a voyage near the North Pole. However, countries worldwide are recognizing the importance of going green and finally seeing the profitable edge that their companies can experience from a happy and healthy environment for all.

#6) Inboard and Outboard Configurations – Although a vessel of larger caliber such as a cruise ship, tanker, or container ship will house their significantly larger engines inside, a smaller boat (sailboat, yacht, cruiser, etc.) can use outboard motors . In addition, the design of solar panels is available in a variety of styles and shapes that fit practically any project, thus making them a fantastic power source for electric motors.

Though electric boats are turning the pages in maritime history and pushing to mark quite a promising future for a sustainable sport and past time, there are several electric boats already available on the market.

Going silent and fuel-free can be your reality as you create some space in your budget to acquire the electric-powered boat of your dreams. Whether you like the more classic cruiser lines or your family is looking forward to loads of fun and entertainment aboard the more modern pontoon boat , there is an electric option for any configuration or application.

What You Need To Look For

When in the market for an electric boat, it would be helpful to consider several very critical items:

  • Battery Life and Replacement – Along with the expected duration of the batteries, it would be good to research local lakes to see if any have recharging stations at the docks . Also, depending on your needs, you should plan your boating adventure with recharging times considered.
  • Enclosure – Take note of the housing of the electric motor to ensure that all electrical connections are adequately protected.
  • Maintenance and Service – As a boat owner, you will learn ways to save money where you can. Is your electric-powered boat DIY-friendly? If not, please take note of the recommended maintenance schedule and find out the location of the nearest service provider.
  • Warranty – With any investment, be sure you understand the limits and coverage extended to you under the manufacturer’s warranty.

I think it’s time to look at this article’s line-up of 8 of the best small electric boats to consider for your lakeside pleasure.

#1) Bruce 22 of Vision Marine Technologies

At a very high starting price point of approximately $225,000, the Bruce 22 offers a luxury high-performance electric boat unparalleled in class and elegance.

This speedy cruiser can reach speeds up to an impressive 40 miles per hour, making it a leading rival to any fossil fuel burner representing mighty towing power and great wake competitive watersports.

But, even if you are not about throwing on a pair of skis and getting pulled behind a boat, you will be turning heads while enjoying a smooth glass of wine with your loved one aboard this sleek and sexy vessel.

#2) Eelex 8000 by X Shore

Eelex 8000 by X Shore

Since I already referred to Konrad Bergström earlier, I thought I should tell you more about the luxury electric boats he designs.

The Eelex 8000 has received plenty of notoriety and is sometimes called the “ Tesla of the Seas .” For near $285,000, you can travel up to 115 miles at lower speeds powered by its 225 kW motor and matching 126 kWh battery pack.

Konrad is hopeful that in time his childhood passion for the seas and ethical stance on ocean sustainability will become a global vision for the maritime boater.

He explains if X Shore can garner the same celebrity attention as Tesla cars initially did. In that case, the company will introduce more economical models that the typical family can afford.

#3) Pulse 63 by RS Electric Boats

Pulse 63 by RS Electric Boats

RS Electric Boats is a British-designed boat using completely sustainable materials with mass production right around the corner. The company specializes in sailing dinghies, and the Pulse 63 can reach a top speed of over 25 miles per hour.

This RIB boat is fully customizable to include personal branding. Additionally, with its ability to travel to over 100 miles on a single charge, you can be sure to enjoy this high-tech electric boat around the lake at half the price of the above two features.

#4) Q30 by Q-Yachts

Q30 by Q-Yachts

I immediately think expensive taste whenever I hear the word yacht , and for a price tag of almost $250,000, the Q 30 is a beautiful luxury day cruiser if your wallet can afford it.

This electric boat has quite a humble appearance with its “hull [designed with] vinylester and unidirectional glass fibre skin with foam core above and below waterline.”

Measuring 9.3 meters in length, you and your guests can cruise at low speeds for approximately ten hours on a single charge of batteries that can recharge overnight using your typical everyday plug.

Let me not forget to mention that the cabin of the Q 30 includes a toilet, fridge, and comfortable accommodation if you see yourself camping out on an extended trip.

#5) M800 Spyder by Marian

This electric yacht made its debut at the 2021 Cannes Yachting Festival, where its sleek lines of sheer elegance did not go unnoticed. The M800 Spyder has a 150kW motor paired with 125kWh batteries that can produce an adrenaline-producing ride of up to 40 miles per hour.

Priced at $270,000 (the highest on this list so far), the M800 Spyder’s Austrian design is here to break the mold of fine maritime tradition with the addition of electric power.

The fast M800 Spyder is a silently impressive and technological beast with no harm to the marine environment or atmosphere.

#6) Wave E-550 by Magonis

Wave E-550 by Magonis

Finally, an electric boat that is more fitting to my budget but equally as elegant and impressive is the Magonis Wave E-550 electric-powered boat.

This dreamy powerboat evolution takes the best of the European class. The E-550 was designed in Barcelona but built in Italy- two countries known for their artistic beauty.

With all the latest in smart technology, including an iPad pro at the helm, Magonis has produced a socially centered leisure boat that utilizes a Torqeedo Electric outboard cruising engine to propel this craft up to 25 miles per hour, depending on your cruising speed.

With the Magonis boat-builder tool on their website, you can explore an extensive range of accessories to make your boat that much more exclusive; however, the starting price for this beautiful boat is $45,000.

#7) 750 Portofino Deluxe by Boesch

The Swiss have done it again- renowned for their multi-tool pocket knives, luggage, and chocolate, Switzerland is also making great strides in electric maritime history.

This electric boat measures 7.5 meters in length, and its spacious deck design comfortably fits five or six guests. Moreover, the 750 Portofino has all the latest instrumentation technology, and even the base model has an extensive list of standard accessories.

The price tag starts at close to $400,000, making it officially the most expensive lakeside toy on this list.

#8) 28 Cabin by Alfastreet

I was surprised to learn of its Polish descent, yet the Alfastreet Marine company offers electric versions of their standard line-up.

Starting at $200,000, the 28 Cabin model is easy to drive and displays Alfastreet’s state-of-the-art craftsmanship.

The boat offers a roof that is incredibly accomodating to guests even if inclement weather intrudes on your lake experience. This vessel is another expensive but great option for you if you want to camp out for the night.

The cabin has a luxurious king-size bed and bathroom for ultimate comfort and relaxation for you and your family.

No doubt about it, boating is a beautiful way to express your love of nature, and I think pursuing your passion without any harm to marine wildlife or the environment around you is the best way to go.

For that reason, this article has explored the 8 Most Elegant Small Electric Boats for your leisurely experience around the lake or along the coastline. The future of maritime technology is growing momentum even though the ethical call for a greener and more sustainable footprint began long ago.

The electrically-powered boat industry offers boats big and small to fit any budget and taste. The boats featured in this article may seem out of reach to the typical boating enthusiast; however, if people continue to express their interest in this sustainable technology, then in time, prices will drop.

Until then, I will have to happily sit across from you at the lake in my hardshell kayak, admiring you in your newest electric yacht.

Would you please mind leaving any questions or concerns about small electric boats in the comment section below?

small yacht electrics

Joseph Fabiano is a writer, nature enthusiast, and stay-at-home father of two wild and free boys. He enjoys starting his day with a good run, hot mug of coffee, and a jump in the Ionian Sea, no matter the weather. Currently based in the Apuglia region of southern Italy, he enjoys discovering the world with his best traveling buddies (his little monkey’s and beautiful wife) at every given opportunity. Every trip, long or far, should be made an adventure according to Joseph as he believes inspiration and creation is right in front of you.

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3 thoughts on “8 Most Elegant Small Electric Boats For Lakes”

Looking forward to a future with smaller affordable electric boats for the ‘average’ person. One where people can enjoy nature without harming the environment or the ecosystems that call it home. Only wish I could afford it! ill be in my canoe for now ….

Lol. I second that. Either using a trolling motors on a Jon boat or paddling. Really no other recourse to go “green” and be frugal.

Looking for a small electric boat

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What To Look for When Purchasing a Small Electric Boat

Outboard Motor Boat

  • 1 Range and Battery Capacity
  • 2 Charging Infrastructure
  • 3 Boat Design and Construction
  • 4 Motor Performance
  • 5 Noise Level
  • 6 Cost of Ownership
  • 7 Manufacturer Reputation and Support
  • 8 Environmental Impact
  • 9 Size and Storage
  • 10 Features and Amenities
  • 11 Conclusion

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As the world sets sail towards a more sustainable future, the allure of electric vehicles extends beyond roads and highways to encompass waterways and lakes. Small electric boats have emerged as a captivating solution for environmentally-conscious boating enthusiasts. Their whisper-quiet operation, lack of emissions, and harmonious coexistence with nature make them appealing.

However, with a burgeoning market offering various options, it’s crucial to embark on your electric boat journey with a compass of knowledge. In this guide, we’ll chart the course through key considerations such as range, charging infrastructure, design, motor performance, noise levels, and more to help you navigate the waters of purchasing a small electric boat that aligns with both your boating aspirations and sustainable values.

Range and Battery Capacity

Just like with electric cars, the range of a small electric boat is a vital consideration. The range refers to the distance the boat can travel on a single battery charge. Determining the range you require is important based on your intended use. If you plan on short leisurely trips, a boat with a lower range might suffice. However, if you intend to use the boat for longer journeys or fishing trips, opting for a model with a higher range is advisable. Consider the battery capacity as well, as a larger one will typically translate to a longer range.

Charging Infrastructure

Electric boats rely on battery power, so having access to a reliable and convenient charging infrastructure is essential. Look into whether the boat has a charging station, solar panels for boats , or if you’ll need to find public charging docks. Also, consider the charging time. How long does it take to fully charge the battery? Faster charging can significantly enhance the usability of your boat.

Boat Design and Construction

The design and construction of the boat play a significant role in its performance and durability. Opt for a boat with a hull shape that suits your intended activities — cruising, fishing, or water sports. The boat’s materials should be durable and corrosion-resistant since electric boats tend to have fewer moving parts than traditional boats. This can contribute to lower maintenance requirements and longer overall lifespan.

Motor Performance

The motor is the heart of an electric boat, so evaluating its performance is crucial. Consider factors like horsepower, torque, and thrust. A higher horsepower motor will offer better acceleration and speed, while higher torque ensures smoother operation. The thrust propels the boat forward, so ensure it’s sufficient for your intended activities.

Noise Level

One of the major advantages of electric boats is their quiet operation. However, not all electric boats are equally noiseless. Test the boat’s noise level when running to ensure it meets your expectations for tranquility on the water. This is particularly important if you use the boat for wildlife observation or in serene natural environments.

Cost of Ownership

The initial cost of purchasing an electric boat is just one part of the equation. Consider the overall ownership cost, including maintenance, charging costs, insurance, and any potential upgrades. While electric boats tend to have lower operating costs compared to traditional boats, it’s still important to factor these expenses into your decision-making process.

Manufacturer Reputation and Support

Research the manufacturer’s reputation and customer reviews. A reputable manufacturer with a history of producing reliable electric boats is more likely to offer a quality product. Additionally, consider the manufacturer’s customer support and warranty terms. A solid warranty can provide peace of mind in case any issues arise.

Environmental Impact

One of the main motivations for choosing an electric boat is its lower environmental impact than gasoline-powered boats. However, not all electric boats are equally eco-friendly. Research the boat’s overall energy efficiency and whether the manufacturer follows sustainable practices in their production. Consider the boat’s lifecycle emissions, including manufacturing, operation, and disposal.

Size and Storage

The size of the boat matters, especially if you have limited storage space or plan to transport it to different bodies of water. Smaller electric boats are generally easier to store and transport but might sacrifice some features and amenities. Find the right balance between size and the features you desire.

Features and Amenities

Finally, consider the features and amenities that come with the boat. Modern electric boats often have various technological enhancements, such as navigation systems, entertainment options, and remote control capabilities. Choose the features that align with your preferences and intended boat use.

Purchasing a small electric boat is an exciting venture that aligns with the growing shift toward sustainable transportation. By carefully considering factors such as range, charging infrastructure, design, motor performance, noise level, cost of ownership, manufacturer reputation, environmental impact, size, and features, you can make an informed decision that matches your boating aspirations while treading lightly on the environment. With the right electric boat, you can enjoy the tranquility of the waterways while minimizing your carbon footprint.

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The All-Electric Yacht Evolution

  • By David Schmidt
  • January 13, 2022

Sunreef Yachts

The powerboat drivers idle near their starting lines off Monaco, waiting for the signal to punch the throttles. But they’re different from those who have raced here since 1904: These nine boats are competing in the Solar Class at the 2021 Monaco Energy Boat Challenge.

Every July, the Monaco Yacht Club organizes this race, which features next-generation technologies. This year, after five days of competition—including a 16-nautical-mile-lap race, slalom racing and a championship race—the Dutch-flagged Sunflare solar team claimed top honors in the sun-powered class.

Is their boat’s top speed of about 29 knots going to break any world speed records? No. But the Monaco Energy Boat Challenge is a harbinger of recreational boating’s not-so-distant future.

That future, of being carbon-free, has been a long time coming. German inventor Moritz von Jacobi created an early electric boat in 1839, a 24-footer that could carry 14 passengers at roughly 2.6 knots. In 1882, Anthony Reckenzaun, an Austria-born electrical engineer, built Electricity , a steel-hulled launch with onboard batteries that was considered one of the first “practical” electric vessels. Other innovations continued until circa 1910, when Ole Evinrude’s gasoline-fired outboards began their own revolution.

Now, a century later, electric yachts harness technologies such as solar panels, electric drivetrains, lightweight construction in carbon fiber, lithium-based batteries and, in some cases, hydrofoils. These boats’ performance, comfort and range can rival some traditionally powered yachts—and they are clean and quiet. Much like Teslas, they sometimes also come with memorable acceleration curves.

Contemporary electric boats range in size and complexity. There are displacement monohulls such as Zin Boat’s 20-foot Z2T and Z2R and X Shore’s 26-foot Eelex 8000. There are hydrofoilers such as the upcoming Navier 27 (see sidebar). There are also boats like those contesting the Monaco Energy Boat Challenge, as well as bluewater cruisers with multiple hulls.

“The first advantage is space,” says Michael Köhler, CEO of Silent-Yachts . “Catamarans have more surface area, which benefits the number of solar panels that can be installed.”

Other advantages of multiple hulls in electric-boat design include increased form stability (no ballasted keels) and reduced drag. “This low resistance means they’re better suited for electric motoring, as they need a lot less energy to move than monohulls,” says Nicolas Lapp, Sunreef Yachts’ strategy consultant for research and development.

Navier 27

One key to reducing a yacht’s energy requirements involves reducing its displacement. “The lighter the yacht, the less energy is needed to move it,” Köhler says. “For this reason, our yachts are made of lightweight carbon fiber.”

While all of the yachts discussed in this article can be charged via shore-supplied AC power, cruisers typically want greater autonomy. To that end, Silent-Yachts and Sunreef Yachts use solar panels. The team at Silent-Yachts specs its panels from California-based SunPower, while Sunreef Yachts created the marine industry’s first flexible solar panels, which are flush-mounted on hulls, masts and superstructures.

Aesthetics matter in yachting, and not everyone wants to cruise aboard a solar farm. Here, Lapp sees an opportunity. “If you want sustainability to be cool and attract the attention of new generations, the appeal of the product is something you cannot neglect,” he says. “Seamless integration of the solar panels was a way for us to prove that sustainability [can] generate green power [and] cool looks.” (After all, no one buys a Tesla because it looks like a Chevy.)

While the Caribbean and Mediterranean are blessed with abundant lumens, other world-class cruising grounds—say, the Pacific Northwest—aren’t equally illuminated. Because of this, electric cruising yachts typically also include redundant systems to ensure that the navigation lights stay on without heading to a marina.

“Every Silent yacht is equipped with a backup generator,” Köhler says. “This makes sure you never run out of energy, even when facing longer periods of unfavorable weather conditions.”

Rainy-day alternatives can include other green-power solutions. Sunreef Yachts typically specs dual wind generators atop its yachts’ rooftops. However, Lapp is realistic about their capabilities.

“Wind turbines can only supply a small fraction of the energy that our solar panels can,” he says, explaining that, in the right conditions, Sunreef’s panels typically generate 40 times more juice than the turbines. “What’s nice about working with wind is that your generators work all the time.” That includes under navigation, at the dock and throughout the night.

Reo Baird and Sampriti Bhattacharyya

Energy sources aside, these experts say that high-quality batteries offering high performance are critical. Larger-capacity battery banks ensure more power reserves, but adding them can affect a yacht’s performance.

“The weight of the battery banks is also an important factor, as it can reduce or increase the overall efficiency,” Köhler says.

Battery performance is also critical for electric-powered coastal craft. One example is X Shore’s Eelex 8000, which has a high-performance 225 kW electric motor and dual 63 kWh lithium-ion batteries that can be charged anywhere there’s a power socket, or supercharged using the same technology as electric cars.

“The batteries can be charged in five to eight hours with three-phase power plugs and one to two hours with superchargers,” says Elias Wästberg, X Shore’s project manager.

While superchargers don’t exist in the middle of oceans, builders of electric-powered bluewater boats have already done this math. Silent-Yachts says its power catamarans are built to offer transatlantic autonomy, but a lot depends on how the owner uses the boat to minimize energy consumption.

“During sunny conditions, a general rule of thumb is that cruising at 6 knots maintains a balance between consumption and production,” Köhler says. “This basically means unlimited range. …The main thing that owners can do to increase range is reduce speed and turn off any appliances.”

This begs the question: Do owners need to downshift their expectations for onboard comfort when going electric?

“There’s no need to make any sacrifices or closely monitor energy levels,” Lapp says. “A lot of energy saving is done automatically. For example, at night, the air-conditioning system focuses solely on selected areas and cabins. … It consumes 70 percent less energy than most systems.”

And should the battery banks get thirsty, there’s always the generator.

Cruising with zero emissions might be a selling point for some customers, but one need not squeeze trees to embrace yachting’s future. “Running costs and maintenance levels are much lower compared to regular-motor catamarans,” Köhler says.

Then, there are unquantifiable returns. “You get to enjoy the absolute luxury of cruising in total silence and without disturbing the marine life around you,” Lapp says, adding that this experience helps owners create “better connections with the environment.”

Sunreef Yachts

Finally, there can also be the grin factor. “The Eelex 8000 can accelerate from 0 to 20 knots in 4.2 seconds,” Wästberg says. “The software captures 150 data points every second, allowing for real-time analytics of battery and engine performance, including temperature, humidity, pressure, location and the craft’s system status.”

While electric yachts boast some impressive capabilities, free lunches are unicorns. Electric yachts don’t emit carbon dioxide, but their carbon footprint likely deepens with stem-to-stern life-cycle assessments of their photovoltaic panels, carbon-fiber hulls and lithium-based batteries. Then there’s the inconvenient financial truth that all batteries have a finite number of charge cycles and eventually need refitting. Also, for now, diesel mechanics greatly outnumber certified electric-boat technicians, especially in remote locales.

Still, few people gifted with foresight would have bet against Evinrude’s outboards in the early 20th century. The same holds true for today’s electric boats. One only has to look at the Monaco Energy Boat Challenge to realize that some of the brightest minds in the marine and technology fields are committed to a carbon-free future.

Couple this trend with the fact that electric yachts are already providing better performance and compromise-free cruising, and yachting’s future is looking bright (green).  

Navier Boats teamed up with Paul Bieker, an America’s Cup-winning naval architect and hydrofoil expert, to create the Navier 27. It delivers 30-plus-knot top speeds or a 75-nautical-mile range at slower speeds. While impressive, hydrofoils require active control, which is a crux that Navier solved by creating an autonomous foil-control system.

Sunreef 100 Eco

It’s one thing to build a solar-powered vessel for the Monaco Energy Boat Challenge; it’s a different challenge to build an electric 100-footer that can accommodate 12 guests and five crewmembers. The Sunreef 100 Eco’s flexible solar panels mean this cat can accommodate 2,610 square feet of solar-farm space and generate up to 46 kilowatts per hour of DC power, which should keep its high-performance lithium-ion batteries topped off. 

Hands on the Helm

While the Navier 27 will initially require human hands on its helm, down-the-road software releases are expected to enable autonomous driving.

Panel Planners

While photovoltaic panels can be fitted to any yacht, catamarans present themselves as an ideal platform, given their beam and broader coach-roof space.

  • More: Electric , Electric Boats , Electric Motors , Electric Yachts , Silent-Yachts , Sunreef Yachts , Yachts , Zin Boats
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Small Boat with Electric Motor: What’s Your Best Option in 2023

With more and more companies coming out selling small boats with electric motors, what are your thoughts?

Going electric may sound bold with speedboats, but small boats with electric motors have already become an affordable (even cost-effective) solution in a lot of applications due to their low operation and maintenance costs.

In this post, we will discuss the benefits of electric boats with electric motors, and explore the easiest solutions and most affordable options to make your own electric small boats and enjoy the benefits immediately.

Table of content:

  • Why Electric Small Boats

Small Boat with Electric Motor: 2 Solutions

Best small boats with electric motors, electric small boat faqs.

Small Boat with Electric Motor

Why Electric Small Boats?

So why small boats with electric motors?

Here are some top reasons why you might consider switching to electric propulsion.

#1. Better Experience

A small boat with an electric motor promises the best boating experience ever. It’s quiet, clean, and exhaust-free. If you are switching from gas to electric power, you will notice the difference immediately and will never want to go back.

When fishing on a small boat with an electric motor, it’s virtually silent and you will never worry about spooking the fish. Here is a video that compares the boating experience on a small boat with an electric motor vs its combustion counterpart, so you can have a better idea of what you can expect from the electric small boat:

Besides that, there is no messy fuel or oil leaks on your small boat with an electric motor, and therefore no greasy stains on your hands, car trunk, or boat. It’s totally exhaust-free, keeping you and your family safer and healthier.

#2. Easier Operation & Maintenance

A small boat with an electric motor is friendly to boat novices with very shallow learning curves.

It’s easy to install and transport. For example, the small electric boat motor ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus features a lightweight integrated battery, so you can just clip the battery into place without complex wiring and installation.

A small boat with an electric motor comes with an electric start and digital control, providing you with real-time operational data. With only one press on the button, you are ready to go. No more tiring pull cord starts.

Besides that, electric motors require significantly lower maintenance (maintenance-free on direct drive models) and energy costs than combustion engines, saving you a lot of time and money over time. That’s why small boats with electric motors are more cost-effective in the long run.

Small boats with electric motors are also proven to be more durable and robust than those with combustion engines since there are much fewer moving parts and less vibration in electric motors.

#3. Kinder to the Earth

It’s easy to understand that using electric motors on small boats is more environmentally friendly since there is no fuel cost and harmful exhaust.

Some advanced small boats with electric motors (such as ePropulsion motors ) come with innovative designs that allow the electric motor to be recharged with hydrogeneration, wind turbine, and solar panel.

#4. Ideal for Small Boats

Although electric power is still hard to beat the energy density of gas/diesel in situations that require motoring long distances (especially at speed), it’s a great option for small boats.

Small boats with electric power are now commonplace in many situations.

For example, small powerboats operating on smaller lakes can benefit greatly from the electric motor (as discussed above), especially for lower-speed boats, like pontoons, dinghies, tenders, recreational boats, etc.

Also, sailors would love electric power. A sailboat operates its axillary engine minimally and benefits a lot from a larger battery (to run the fridge, instruments, etc. longer between charges). For sailors with lots of solar power or who tend to hop between marinas, electric power will work great and should lower maintenance costs.

Some small boats with electric motors, such as ePropulsion Navy Series outboards , allow you to generate power while sailing, making it a more feasible and appealing option for long distances.

Editor’s Note : For the discussion concerning small boats with electric motors, we don’t include electric trolling motors here since they are only intended for slow trolling and can hardly be used as the primary power source for even small boats. Click to learn the difference between electric small boat motors vs. trolling motors .

So what kind of boats have electric motors?

In fact, all boats can be turned into electric boats, especially smaller boats. There are two feasible solutions if you want to build a small boat with an electric motor.

Solution #1. Small Boat and Electric Motor Bundle

If you are a boat novice and don’t know where to begin, a small boat with an electric motor bundle will save you a lot of trouble.

Some boat manufacturers have partnered with outboard manufacturers to provide customers with a one-stop solution that helps you enjoy a comfortable day on the water with the least effort.

That’s to say, you don’t need to worry about shaft length selection, power limit, weight problems, etc. Everything is tailor-made and tested to bring out the best performance on water.

If you buy a small boat with an electric motor together as a bundle, you can usually get a discount.

Currently, there are several small boat and electric motor bundle options readily available on the market. You can easily find one for fishing, cruising, or recreational purposes.

For example, the TwinTroller eVenture bundle includes a small format boat with an electric motor (with battery) and a multi-sport trailer, providing you with enhanced fishability and mobility on the water.

Small Boat and Electric Motor Bundle

Solution #2. Small Electric Outboard Motors

If you already own a boat and want to switch to electric propulsion, putting a small electric outboard motor on your boat would be a more suitable and straightforward solution.

This solution allows you to power any boat with electric motors, whether it’s a pontoon boat, fishing boat, inflatable boat, or lake boat. For example, ePropulsion outboard motors have been used in different small vessels to provide clean and sustainable power for various boating needs:

Small Boat with ePropulsion Electric Motors

The only thing you need to do is to determine the power rating and shaft length. If you are not sure about the power needed, be sure to contact a local dealer to communicate your specific needs and requirements.

Or you can check the test reports as an easy reference to understand how the electric boat drive systems perform on a variety of boats:

Small Boat with Electric Motor Report

Click to see the full test report of the 12” small boat with 3 HP electric motor.

When it comes to buying a small boat with electric motors, there is no one-size-fits-all solution.

Some might be looking for an electric propulsion solution for specific boat types, such as small pontoon (fishing/inflatable/lake) boat with an electric motor, while others may just want some affordable electric boat solutions for 2 people.

Our recommendations here only cover the most popular small boat with electric motor options for your quick reference. If you have other specific needs for your setup, feel free to leave us a comment below and I will try to get back to you ASAP.

#1. Small Boat and Electric Motor Bundle

If you are a fishing enthusiast, you will love the eVenture Bundle.

It includes Freedom Electric’s Twin Troller X10 or Deluxe fishing boats, ePropulsion’s Spirit 1.0 Plus electric motor, a multi-sport trailer, and a FREE custom-fit canvas boat cover.

If you buy this small boat and electric motor bundle, you will save $500 immediately.

ePropulsion and Freedom Electric Boats Bundle

The small boat and electric motor are made for each other. The Twin Troller X10 fishing boat is designed for the ultimate fishing experience with hands-free control and an in-hull propulsion system with recessed motors. The 3 HP small electric motor Spirit 1.0 Plus provides great portability as well as long-range between charges.

Featuring a 1276Wh large integrated battery, this small boat and electric motor bundle allows you to go 22 miles at an economical throttle.

“No matter what kind of fishing you’re doing, the Twin Troller combined with the Spirit 1.0 Plus will give you the outboard experience you want and the performance you need.”

#2. Small Electric Outboard Motors

If you just want a small electric outboard motor for your existing boat, you may check out the ePropulsion outboard motor range first. It’s durable and affordable, covering your diverse needs from 3 HP to 9.9 HP:

  • Its best-selling 3 HP Spirit 1.0 Plus is a portable 3HP electric motor made for dinghies, fishing boats, sailboats, and tenders.
  • As the backbone of ePropulsion electric outboard motors, the 6 HP/9.9 HP Navy Series outboard motors provide efficient and clean power for aluminum fishing boats, dinghies, daysailers, and cruising sailboats.

ePropulsion Small Outboard Motor Range

All ePropulsion small electric outboards are designed for both freshwater and saltwater, so you don’t need to worry about corrosion problems even if you are using them in the sea or brackish waters.

Besides that, you can easily control your small boat with ePropulsion electric motors remotely (even for the 3 HP outboard solutions). If you prefer wheel steering, make sure to check whether the small boat with an electric outboard is compatible with remote control.

If you have other customized needs for your boat, you are very welcome to discuss your requirements with our specialist to come up with a tailor-made electric propulsion solution for your small boat.

Here we’ve also collected some frequently asked questions concerning the small boat with electric motors. You may browse and check the answers quickly in case you share similar confusion.

#1. Can you power a boat with an electric motor?

The answer is absolutely YES. In fact, more and more people are now driving small boats with electric motors. There are even electric-only lakes where you can only power your boat with an electric motor.

#2. What’s the smallest electric boat motor?

Currently, the most popular small electric boat motors are 3 HP models and you can hardly find an electric boat motor smaller than 1 HP. Small boats with electric trolling motors are not on the list here, since they are usually not intended as the primary power source.

#3. Do you need to register a boat with an electric motor?

Generally speaking, if your electric motor is 10 HP or above, you must register it regardless of the motor type. However, mind that the requirements can vary across different regions and states. For example, all boats with electric motors must be registered in California.

#4. What is a small boat with a motor called?

A small boat with a motor can be called a motorboat or powerboat.

#5. Do electric boat motors exist?

Yes. Electric boat motors have already become a popular choice, especially for smaller boats including dinghies, fishing boats, sailboats, and tenders. The global electric boat market value has achieved US$ 5.6 billion in 202 and is expected to grow to US$ 15.1 billion by 2033.

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Sailboat Electrical System Upgrades

  • By Ed Sherman
  • Updated: April 7, 2021

Germán Frers-designed 1983 Beneteau First 42 sailboat

If you’ve been attending boat shows for the past 10 or 20 years like I have, you have surely noticed significant design evolutions from the major sailboat builders. Wide beam carried all the way aft to a plumb transom—which often articulates into a sweet boarding deck, sometimes even opening up a garage for a tender and motor—are becoming the norm. Dual helms and twin rudders are commonplace, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a boat without installed air conditioning and sophisticated refrigeration systems. Boats 30 feet and longer often have a bow thruster as an option, and shore power is standard equipment.

Recently I had the opportunity to turn on the not-so-way-back machine and take a trip to the 1980s to remind me what life on board back then was about. Let me share with you some of my observations and what I would consider changing if I were to buy such a boat.

The sample boat here is a Germán Frers-designed 1983 Beneteau First 42, offered for sale by Dave McKenny at Brewer Yacht Sales in Rhode Island. It is a one-owner boat that was repowered about 10 years ago, and its hull and deck have been repainted. The interior woodwork is the classic dark bright finish of the era and is in excellent condition. More common to that time, the boat has two proper sea berths port and starboard, amidships above and behind the standard saloon settees. And the upholstery has been updated.

The onboard electrical and electronic systems, however, are mostly original, with the exception of a fairly recent autopilot, a 1,000-watt DC-to-AC electrical inverter and an Isotherm seawater-cooled DC refrigeration/freezer upgrade for the original icebox in the galley. The boat has no shore-power system installed, which amazingly was not that uncommon back then. There is no bow thruster or electric windlass; winches are all sized properly but fully manual. So the question is, what would I do to bring this boat’s almost-40-year-old electrical/electronic systems into the new century?

Nav-station instruments on the Beneteau sailboat.

Step one would be to analyze the existing source of electrical power. Currently the boat is equipped with a pair of Group 31 flooded-cell lead-acid batteries. They get recharged by a stock 65-amp alternator controlled by an ancient Balmar voltage regulator. This battery bank has an amp-hour capacity of about 200 amps, but unfortunately flooded lead-acid batteries like these suffer from cycle-life reduction if they get continually discharged below about 50 percent of their capacity. In effect, this boat currently has about 100 amp-hours of power available for running accessories.

In my dream redo, this would not be adequate, and I consider it marginal even as the boat is equipped now without a bit of engine run time to keep those batteries charged.

For me, one of the first upgrades would be to replace these batteries with a pair of group 31 absorbed glass-mat batteries. AGMs have considerably higher recharge-acceptance rates compared with flooded-cell batteries, and can be discharged up to 80 percent of capacity, meaning that engine run times will be at a more acceptable level when away from the dock, at least in terms of electrical-power generation. Upgrading the alternator and voltage regulator to a 100-amp Balmar set would also be on my list for this boat to minimize engine run time.

My intention is to add quite a bit more electrical equipment to this boat, and I prefer not to run things such as alternators near their maximum capacity for extended periods of time. Limiting the amount of full output extends their potential service life considerably.

Sailboat battery bank

Plug and Play

AC power on board today is almost a must for boats that are going to be berthed at a dock. Yes, global warming is real, and sleeping on board without air conditioning at this point in my life just isn’t happening.

I’ve lost my enthusiasm for cold showers as well. In the old days, we used sun showers hanging from the boom in the cockpit and got by just fine, but that was then and this is now. The luxury of hot water on demand is not too much to ask in this day and age. So besides adding air conditioning to this boat, we are going to need to add a water heater and appropriate plumbing to deliver hot water to the galley and two heads.

The current refrigeration system, an Isotherm ASU unit, is only a 12-volt, and I would think about swapping that out for a 12-volt DC/120-volt AC unit. Or, as a money saving measure, I might just leave the 12-volt unit in place because I’m going to be installing a proper battery charger to keep my new AGM batteries charged up anyhow. We’ll let the charger replenish the power used by the Isotherm unit.

The bottom line here is that the boat is going to get shore power installed for the first time. The question becomes whether a 30-amp system or a 50-amp system will be needed. Determining that requires performing a load analysis. Here’s how I would go about doing it.

First we have to determine how many Btu we’re going to need to cool the boat. A visit to marinaire.com will connect you with a calculator that will provide the Btu per hour needed to air-condition the boat in either moderate or tropical environments. I chose moderate for this boat because based on MarineAire’s world map, only South Florida is in its tropical zone, and the plan for this boat is to stay in the mid-Atlantic to Northern states the majority of the time.

Based on the calculator results, I still came out needing one of the company’s largest units, which can produce 16,000 Btu of AC and 17,000 Btu of heat when needed. This unit draws just under 11 amps of AC power at 110 volts.

My new water heater will draw 13 amps, and I’ll need another 8 amps for my P-12 Blue Sea 40-amp battery charger.

MarineAire air conditioning and heat system

With an air conditioner, water heater and battery charger plugged in and running, we’re looking at just over 30 amps of AC power needed. That figure does not include any provision for a microwave oven, coffee maker, hair dryer or any other small AC appliance while at the dock.

Knowing this opens up two options for shore power: either a 50-amp service or possibly two 30-amp setups. The potential problem here is the marina itself; many don’t offer a 50-amp option at the dockside pedestal. There are myriad adapters available that would allow you to tap into multiple outlets to get to 50 amps, but remember: You don’t want to pull more than 30 amps from a 30-amp service.

One additional shore-power consideration on this boat is the 1,000-watt DC-to-AC inverter that has been installed. This was possibly done to facilitate running a laptop at some point, or maybe an electric shaver or small hair dryer. It is located in the aft head compartment, so I’m going with the shaver idea.

My inclination would be to relocate the inverter behind a panel in the navigation-station area, probably under the settee at the nav station, and resize it to a 2,000-watt unit. I would add a dedicated battery to supply DC power to the inverter and make sure the battery is connected to my Blue Sea charger. Since I am going to be running only intermittent loads from the inverter, a group 27 AGM will get the job done.

Note that I am not considering a generator for this major upgrade. Space is tight, and I don’t want to carry the extra weight. This is a performance cruiser, and I want it to stay that way. Besides, my plan is to stay mostly in slips when traveling, and so I’ll have access to shore power when I need it.

A Wednesday-night race series is in the plan as well, so I won’t be adding a bow thruster, anchor windlass or electric winches. For the occasional overnight away from the dock, I will still have the power I need to microwave some popcorn and run a laptop to check a weather forecast or watch a downloaded Netflix movie.

Side note: I have no plans to add solar panels or a wind generator either. I love the lines of this boat just the way Frers designed it.

Blue Sea Systems' USB plug

Based on the proposed changes to the electrical system, a new AC/DC combined panel is in order. The boat is currently equipped with 12 DC circuits and no AC circuits. We will also need to modify the battery-switching system, so that will allow the three new batteries, combined, to be separated.

For the panels, Blue Sea, Paneltronics and Bass Products are all possibilities. I just need to take some measurements to see what will fit where the existing panel is mounted. The design will also depend on whether I decide to go with a single 50-amp shore-power service or two 30-amp services.

In either case, rather than having two cigar-lighter-style outlets, we’ll swap those out for a pair of Blue Sea USB plug adapters, which are more relevant in today’s world.

Instruments and Toys

With the exception of the autopilot, the original onboard electronics need to be replaced. A pair of multifunction displays are in order here, with one mounted at the traditional nav station down below and another in a pod at the helm. An updated VHF with digital selective calling and possibly integrated AIS will also be needed. And since trips north to Maine from Annapolis will be part of the plan, we’ll add radar. Air, wind and speed instruments will also be integrated via NMEA 2000. Since coastal cruising is going to be the primary use for this boat, satellite communications will not be part of the permanent upgrades.

I’m not a television person, so a boat with a flat-screen TV that rises up from behind a settee and interfaces with the chart plotter means nothing more to me than just one more thing that can break and need repair. I do have an iPad loaded with my favorite tunes though, so some speakers and a small AM/FM stereo set that connects to my iPhone or iPad via Bluetooth will augment the good company I plan to have on board for entertainment.

Blue Seas Systems DC electrical panel

Dollars and Sense

The used-boat market has a huge inventory these days, and there a lot of really great boats available for any price range—and at considerable savings compared with the cost of a new boat.

This Beneteau First 42 that I have my eye on has an asking price of $59,900. Although there is no direct comparison for the 2020 model year from Beneteau, a similar boat in this size range would cost over $200,000. That’s at least a $140,000 differential.

That can buy a lot of upgrades!

The proposals I suggest here will not be inexpensive, but when compared with the cost of a new boat with similar equipment (much of it optional), you can come out tens of thousands of dollars ahead with careful selection of the right used boat. I think the biggest part of any decision here is to be totally honest with yourself about your genuine needs versus your dreams and desires.

Ed Sherman writes frequently on a range of technical topics for CW. He is a longtime Boat of the Year judge, and recently retired as vice president of the American Boat & Yacht Council.

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How to get the latest boat electronics – on a budget

  • Katy Stickland
  • April 28, 2021

Keeping up to date with the latest navigation technology can be prohibitive. Mike Reynolds shares how to get the latest electronics for your boat for a fraction of the cost

A skipper using a laptop on board of his yacht

Mike Reynold uses free software for a range of navigation tasks. Credit: Mike Reynolds

Electronics technology is constantly improving, offering ever more impressive capabilities, writes Mike Reynolds .

It is making navigation easier, quicker and more accurate, and useful information easier to access.

It’s making recording and displaying historical data possible, supplementing the real-time (now) data we’re used to.

It costs, but only if substantial replacement of hardware is necessary.

We decided we wanted the best of both worlds — standard hardware with longevity, and software with the flexibility to take advantage of emerging trends.

OpenCPN offers clear, easy-to-use chartplotting and navigation functions.

OpenCPN offers clear, easy-to-use chartplotting and navigation functions. Credit: Mike Reynolds

We are electronics enthusiasts and configuring electronics isn’t everyone’s cup of tea.

But a little effort can deliver the very latest capabilities, tailored to your boat, for minimal additional cost.

For those not inclined to experiment, this article illustrates capabilities coming to future ‘plug and play’ systems.

Our boat Zen Again is a 1980s 34ft 3/4 tonner which we purchased 10 years ago.

She is fitted with a robust cruising navigation and communications system, with built-in redundancy.

For some years we’ve used standard NMEA-2000 sensors for position, speeds, depth and AIS .

The data is sent via WiFi to a laptop at the chart table and waterproof tablets on deck.

Zen Again is a ST10.4, a 1980s IOR three-quarter tonner designed and built in Japan.

Zen Again is a ST10.4, a 1980s IOR three-quarter tonner designed and built in Japan. Credit: Mike Reynolds

Recently we’ve added a NMEA-2000 weather station which added wind, temperature, atmospheric pressure and 3D attitude.

This required new SignalK interface technology to replace the old NMEA-0183 traditionally used over WiFi.

SignalK became a springboard into some really useful capabilities.

I will describe what we’ve done, and what it cost.

You can stop anywhere along the process but the further you go the better the capabilities, and the value of the investment!

Electronics: Gathering the Data

When contemplating upgrades we keep in mind our prioritised data list:

  • Position (from GNSS systems – GPS, Galileo, Glonass, collectively ‘GPS’)
  • Water depth n Boat speed and heading
  • Speed and course over ground (SoG and CoG)
  • Autopilot n Communication (VHF plus SSB and/or Satphone)
  • AIS transceiver
  • Wind sensor (apparent wind)
  • Environment sensor (atmospheric pressure, air temperature, attitude)

The autopilot is important enough for us to have two fully installed and calibrated units.

Radar is last since AIS pushed it down the list.

We had radar but it failed years ago.

A replacement hasn’t made the cut yet and we’ll ignore it here.

We’ll also ignore SSB and satphones.

Recognising that AIS transceivers integrate GPS we can translate the data list into a list of system elements:

  • AIS (position, time, SoG, CoG, traffic)
  • Thru-hull sensor (boat speed, water depth, water temperature, 3D attitude)
  • Autopilot (heading, rudder angle, route-related data, 3D attitude)
  • VHF (DSC messages)
  • Environment sensor (atmospheric pressure, air temperature, 3D attitude)

It’s interesting that 3D attitude is appearing in so many sensors.

The technology is now very cheap and easy to integrate into products.

A weather station for a boat

A more expensive weather station, with ultrasonic wind sensor, gave Mike the full range of data he wanted. Credit: Mike Reynolds

Our research revealed the availability of NMEA-2000 weather stations.

These integrate high-speed GPS and measure apparent wind, ground wind, air temperature, atmospheric pressure, 3D attitude and more.

No moving parts. It gave us all the environmental data we wanted and addressed a desire for GPS redundancy.

So our list became:

  • AIS transceiver (about £800)
  • Thru-hull sensor (about £300)
  • Autopilot (about £1,300 tiller, about £2,500 wheel)
  • VHF transceiver (about £300)
  • Weather station (about £1,500)

All of these system elements are readily available with NMEA-2000 interfaces.

The total cost is under £5,000 for tiller and £6,000 for wheel auto-pilots including cabling and mounting gear.

To save £1,200 the weather station could be replaced with a wind sensor (about £300).

We valued GPS redundancy and environment data highly so installed the weather station.

Displaying the Data

Marine MFDs (Multi-Function Displays) and chartplotters are nice.

Many boats have two. But they’re not cheap, and nor are charts for them.

We fitted a small one soon after purchasing Zen Again , and carried a spare.

A MFD mounted in the cockpit of a boat - some of the electronics needed to receive navigation data

A cockpit-mounted tablet provides MFD functions using SignalK. Credit: Mike Reynolds

As time passed one failed and the other was relegated to data display only.

Five years ago we started chartplotting and displaying data on laptops and tablets.

This change was enabled by the WiFi access point on our AIS transceiver.

This, together with the integrated GPS, makes the AIS the heart of the system.

Continues below…

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It broadcasts its own data plus other data from the NMEA-2000 network.

We’ve crossed three oceans and circumnavigated the UK using only laptops and tablets for chartplotting and data display.

They’ve survived storms and a lightning near-miss which destroyed a marine-standard interface unit and damaged one of our autopilots.

With his new SignalK system for £200, Mike no longer needs an array of expensive standalone electronics at his chart table

With his new SignalK system for £200, Mike no longer needs an array of expensive standalone instruments at his chart table. Credit: Mike Reynolds

We carry fully configured spares.

With thunderstorms nearby we disconnect all their cables to minimise risk.

The apps we use are OpenCPN on the laptops and iNavX on the tablets.

OpenCPN is a free, open-source, full-featured chartplotter.

On OpenCPN we use ooSENC charts supplemented by satellite imagery.

iNavX is also an excellent chartplotter and uses Navionics charts.

We like the redundancy of multiple chart sources.

Both apps support display of real-time instrument data.

Most marine WiFi access points broadcast data as a NMEA-0183 datastream.

This limits the data to that supported by NMEA-0183. This was a serious problem in our latest upgrade which added the weather station.

Much of the new data is unsupported by NMEA-0183.

More research suggested SignalK was the answer.

SignalK is a free, open source marine data exchange format.

It provides a means of sharing marine data in a future-proof manner friendly to WiFi, mobile networks and the internet.

The heart of SignalK is a software server which inputs and outputs NMEA-0183, NMEA-2000 and other data streams.

The software translates the data streams to and from SignalK format and makes the SignalK data available to client apps.

Clients can be on the same computer or on other connected computers.

Each client gets only the data it requests.

Client apps can be on phones, tablets or laptops, aboard or elsewhere.

The only additional hardware required is a NMEA-2000 USB gateway for about £150. An example use of SignalK is the open source system OpenPlotter .

OpenPlotter uses a £50 Raspberry Pi computer to run SignalK and OpenCPN, providing a full onboard MFD solution, albeit not to ‘marine standard’.

SignalK supports more than described below, including monitoring and controlling devices, and generating alarms.

Cheaper electronics onboard, like a BeagleBone computer can help you get the latest tech on your boat at a fraction of the cost

A simple, cheap computer runs SignalK and records all NMEA2000 data. Credit: Mike Reynolds

On Zen Again we already had several BeagleBone computers aboard.

They’re less capable computers than the latest Raspberry Pis but consume less power.

We decided to try SignalK on one of them.

We purchased an Actisense NGT-1 NMEA-2000 USB gateway and set to work installing the SignalK software on the BeagleBone.

Installation wasn’t simple but it’s now documented on our blog.

OpenPlotter comes with the software pre-installed for a Raspberry Pi. Our experiment has worked out very well.

The Beaglebone now feeds SignalK over WiFi to OpenCPN on our laptops and to client apps iNavX and WilhelmSK on our laptop, tablets and phones.

A SignalK gateway opens up a whole range of real time and historic data tracking, giving a more informed picture of how conditions are changing.

A SignalK gateway opens up a whole range of real time and historic data tracking, giving a more informed picture of how conditions are changing. Credit: Mike Reynolds

It also transmits wired NMEA-0183 to our old autopilots.

We also have all the software installed and configured on a spare BeagleBone.

Both hardware and software have proven to be very reliable after several months of 24/7 operation.

WilhelmSK is a £20 SignalK client app which runs on iOS and MacOS.

It supports user-designed pages to suit your data and also your current situation.

For example we have sailing, anchoring and weather pages.

Beyond SignalK

With SignalK proven aboard we looked at what more we could do with our data.

We like to record our passages, which previously amounted to written hourly logs and electronic GPX files of our tracks.

SignalK supports output to the free database software InfluxDB .

InfluxDB was simple to set up on the BeagleBone.

This records all of our NMEA-2000 data, giving us a ‘black box’ recorder.

To view recorded data we installed the free graphing software Grafana on our navigation laptop.

The laptop accesses the BeagleBone’s InfluxDB database over WiFi.

Electronics engineer Mike Reynolds

Mike Reynolds is a consultant electronics engineer who occasionally lectures on yacht navigation and communications systems. Credit: Mike Reynolds

We created Grafana ‘dashboards’ to display our data.

While sailing we can view trends like speed, wind, current, atmospheric pressure and so on.

After passages we can capture summaries and highlights.

WilhelmSK can display web pages, including Grafana dashboards.

SignalK has given us a lot of information and enjoyment for the £200 hardware cost of a BeagleBone and an Actisense NGT-1.

Most of the software for these programmes is free.

Installing the software wasn’t trivial but it put the future of marine electronics on our boat today.

Adding recorded data display to real-time data display is certainly a plus.

Electronics gear

Actisense ngt-1 nmea-2000 usb gateway.

Actisense NGT-1 NMEA-2000 USB gateway

Buy it now on eBay (UK)

Buy it now on eBay (US)

www.actisense.com

Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 2GB Quad Core 64 Bit Cortex-A72 4x USB WiFi Bluetooth 5 (2GB)

Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 2GB Quad Core 64 Bit Cortex-A72 4x USB WiFi Bluetooth 5 (2GB)

Buy it now on Amazon (UK)

Buy it now on Amazon (US)

www.raspberrypi.org

BeagleBone Black

BeagleBoard Black

www.beagleboard.org

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Understanding electrical wiring connections for boats

  • Pat Manley and Oliver Ballam
  • August 16, 2023

Pat Manley and Oliver Ballam demystify boat electrics and explain how to use and make secure electrical wiring connections

Spraying a connector for electrical wiring

Protecting a connector with spray grease. Credit: Fernhurst Credit: Fernhurst

How to make and use electrical wiring connections for boats

Connections are the heart of the electrical system and if we’re not meticulous in making them, they can be its downfall.

  • They must be secure.
  • They must be supported so that the wiring is not taking any load which might make it liable to being pulled out.
  • They must be protected from corrosion .
  • They must be accessible.
  • They should be identifiable.

Corrosion is the enemy of all cable joints on a boat. Any exposed cable joint should be protected using silicone grease.

The connection may be a joint between just two wires or a joint between multiple wires.

connector blocks used in electrical wiring connections

These connector blocks have a clamping leaf which is pushed down by the screw to hold the wire. Credit: Fernhurst

There are a number of different ways to make the joints and you need to consider if the joint is to be permanent or if it needs to be undone from time to time.

The strongest permanent joint, having the least electrical resistance, is a soldered joint made on new, bright wire.

A clamping leaf used in electrical wiring connections

Electrical wiring connections: Without a clamping leaf, as here, there is a risk of breaking the strands of wire. Credit: Fernhurst

However, a soldered joint may melt in the event of a short circuit. Signal wires are small in diameter because they carry a very small current.

They are typically used for instrument wiring and are fairly fragile, so they need special consideration when being joined.

Wago blocks used in electrical wiring

Alternatively there are Wago blocks which don’t use screws, but have a spring contact. Credit: Fernhurst

There are two schools of thought on whether the end of a wire should be ‘tinned’ with solder or not.

Soldered joints use a flux to remove oxidisation from the surfaces to be joined.

Marine grande bus bar connections used on boat electrical wiring connections

Marine grade ‘bus bar’ connector. Credit: Fernhurst

This flux may be acidic and can cause subsequent weakening of the wire.

On small-diameter, multi-strand wire, stresses can be induced by movement at the junction of the soldered wire and the unsoldered wire.

 Multiway connector block

Electrical wiring connections: Multiway connector block. Credit: Fernhurst

The screw of a screw terminal and the crimping process are both unable to ‘squash’ the soldered part of the cable and joints may be less secure.

Most technicians recommend that the ends of the wires should not be soldered.

Electrical wiring connections: Terminal blocks

Also known as ‘chocolate block’ or ‘strip connectors’.

These allow joints to be made and remade as required. Select the appropriate-sized terminal block for the wires to be connected.

Using a wire stripper, remove just sufficient insulation to fit into the terminal.

Chocolate block for electrical wiring connections

‘Chocolate block’ connectors – no good for damp places. Credit: Fernhurst

Insert the wire into the terminal and tighten the clamping screw, ensuring that the screw presses down on the centre of the wire’s core.

‘Chocolate block’ connectors are not ideal for use on a boat, unless in a very dry area.

If used, both the wire entries and screw heads must be insulated against moisture ingress with spray grease to prevent corrosion of the cable.

Crimp eye connectors used in electrical wiring

Use crimp eye terminals – no more than four to a single screw or post. Credit: Fernhurst

Do not try to keep moisture out by wrapping it with self-adhesive electrical tape.

Connector blocks or strips should be made from marine-grade materials, which rules out those bought from the local car shop.

Non-ratchet crimping tool. Credit: Fernhurst

Non-ratchet crimping tool. Credit: Fernhurst

If they’re to be used with small-diameter signal wires, such as those used for instrument connections, they should have a clamping leaf to hold the wire, otherwise the wire’s strands may be broken as you tighten the securing screw.

Connection of signal wires is probably the most useful application on board for ‘choc-block’ connectors.

A ratchet crimping tool with orange handles

The better ratchet crimping tool. Credit: Fernhurst

For power connections, marine-grade ‘bus bar’ connectors should be used with crimped terminals on the wires, preferably self-sealing ones.

Never wind a wire around a bolt and screw the nut down on top of it – always use a crimped eye terminal.

This is to ensure proper contact and security of the joint. Do not fit more than four eyes to a single screw or post.

Types of electrical wiring connections

Crimped connectors come in a variety of shapes and three different colour-coded sizes.

Using an oversized connector will make a weak joint. Using an undersized connector will mean not all of the strands of the wire will fit into the part which is crimped, making this a bad connection.

So you need to use the correct size connector for the wire being connected.

Crimping tools and connectors are available cheaply from car shops.

Example of a double crimp

The much better double crimp (left) and the cheaper single crimp (right). Credit: Fernhurst

The connectors may be made of steel and/or the metal will be too thin, preventing an adequate crimp pressure.

Most of these are a single crimp, meaning they have one metal ring which is crimped onto the conductor.

The better, more expensive, crimp terminals have two rings – one crimps onto the conductor and the other onto the insulation to give more support to the joint.

The cheap crimping tool will not allow sufficient pressure to be applied, potentially allowing the wire to pull out of the terminal.

Continues below…

Inserting a draw rod while sorting out boat wiring

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Switches turn on or off the flow of electricity in a circuit' relays provide control over the flow. Credit: Fernhurst

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Ideally, use a ratchet crimping tool, which, although more expensive, will make a secure joint.

This robust tool exerts sufficient force to make a proper joint on any size wire that it’s designed for.

You use a repeated squeezing action and continue until the tool automatically releases at the correct pressure.

It has three anvils, each of a different size. Each anvil is colour-coded − red being for the smallest crimp, blue a mid-sized one and yellow the largest.

The ratchet crimping tool’s anvils are matched to colour-coded crimp connectors, each of a different size and designed for different-sized wires, NOT the colour of the insulation!

You use the red anvil for red connectors, etc.

Spade & bullet connectors

spade connectors used in boat wiring

Spade connectors – male and female to fit into each other. Credit: Fernhurst

These come in male and female and can be fitted to the ends of wires so that the wires may be disconnected and remade as required.

Bullet connectors used in electrical wiring

Bullet connectors – male and female to fit into each other. Credit: Fernhurst

Ring terminals

ring terminals

Ring terminals. Credit: Fernhurst

These are for attaching a wire to a screw, bolt or post and come in various hole sizes.

Butt crimps

Butt crimps

Butt crimps. Credit: Fernhurst

These are tube-shaped connectors with two crimps for joining wires in-line.

They typically consist of a metal tube that’s usually encased in an insulated covering.

Heat-Shrink Crimps

Heat shrink connectors

All these connectors are available with a heatshrink sleeve (second), which helps waterproof the connector, or not (first). Credit: Fernhurst

All of the above will be available in heat-shrink variants – where the plastic outer sleeve is replaced by a heat-shrink sleeve, ideally with adhesive lining, which helps to waterproof the connector.

Making a crimp connection: step by step

A man making an electrical wiring connection

Credit: Fernhurst

1. Put the wire in the stripper jaws – some stripper jaws have notches suitable for different wire sizes; others automatically close to the correct diameter.

A man using wire cutters to strip a wire

2. Strip the insulation from the end of the wire.

A wire being inserted

3. Insert the bared wire into the crimp connector.

A crimp tool being used

4. Choose the crimp tool aperture for the correct size – in this case, red.

A wire being inserted into a crimping tool

5. Insert the crimp connector into jaws of the crimping tool.

A crimping tool being used to make an electrical wiring connections

6. Close the crimping tool jaws around the crimp terminal.

A crimping tool being closed around a wire

7. Squeeze the crimping tool until the crimp is correctly squashed.

A crimping tool being opened

8. Release the handles and check the wire is held securely in the crimp.

Splices: Step by Step

Making electrical wiring connections - splices

1. Place the first wire in the stripper’s jaws.

A man removing insulation from an electrical wire

2. Remove just sufficient insulation so the wire will go into the terminal AND the insulation will be covered by the terminal’s own insulation.

A wiring being inserted into a terminal

3. Insert one wire into the terminal. You may need to twist the stands very slightly so they stay together and go into the terminal more easily.

A wire being inserted into a case

4. Push the wire fully in, so there is no bare wire showing.

An electrical terminal being inserted into a crimping tool

5. Insert the terminal into the crimping tool.

A crimping tool being squeezed around a terminal

6. Squeeze the crimping tool to crimp the wire in place.

A splice in an electrical connection

7. That’s the first half of the splice created.

A wire being stripped as part of electrical wiring connections

8. Strip the second wire and insert it into the other end of the terminal.

A wire being inserted into a crimping tool

9. Now crimp the second half of the splice.

Two ends of a wire crimped together

10. With both halves crimped, check the joint – if you can pull the wires out you’ll need to remake the joint.

A wire being heated

11. If you’re using a heat shrink-type crimp, shrink the tube with a hot air gun.

A splice in electrical wiring connections

12. The finished splice – secure and well protected for the marine environment.

Making a heavy-duty crimp connection: Step by Step

Wire being cut

1. Cut the cable to length using heavy-duty wire shears.

insulation being cut from wiring

2. Remove just sufficient insulation using a craft knife (taking great care not to cut or damage any of the conductors)…

wire cut as part of electrical wiring connections on a boat

3… so that the bared wire is the same length as the terminal’s collar.

A wire being inserted into a terminal

3a. Insert the bared wire into the terminal.

A wire being inserted into a crimping tool to make an electrical wiring connections

4. Take the heavy-duty crimping tool, adjusting the size as necessary for the gauge of the terminal and cable.

Wire being inserted into the jaws of a crimping tool

5. Place the terminal in the vice and line it up with the vice jaws.

A wire in a crimping tool

6. Fully close the vice (having adjusted it earlier it will exert the correct amount of pressure)…

A terminal used in boat electrical connections

7… to create the crimped terminal.

Adhesive shrink tubing on a connector

8. Cut the correct length of adhesive heat-shrink tubing and place this over the joint.

A cable being heated with a heat lamp

9. Heat the heat shrink tubing with a hot air gun until it has shrunk and made a tight fit over the joint.

Finished heat shrunk connection

10. The finished joint – you can just see some of the sealing adhesive visible at each end of the tubing

The third edition of Essential Boat Electrics (Fernhurst Books, £16.99) is available at fernhurstbooks.com .

Written by Oliver Ballam and the late Pat Manley, it’s a practical guide – with simple language and clear diagrams – to allow owners to tackle electrical jobs on board.

Essential Boat Electrics book jacket

There are tutorials, from wiring a circuit, understanding switches and relays to troubleshooting electrical faults, all using easy-to-follow photo sequences.

The book also looks at tasks such as choosing solar panels and batteries and connecting navigational instruments.

Buy Essential Boat Electrics from Amazon (UK)

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Enjoyed reading understanding electrical wiring connections for boats.

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Basic Boat Electronics for Beginners

boat electronics for dummies

Learning about boat electronics may seem a bit daunting, but the tech at your helm will help make running and navigating your boat easier than ever. Thanks to modern marine electronics and navigational instruments , captaining your boat is far less complex and confusing than it once was.

MFDs multifunction displays

In fact, electronics have taken tasks like navigation , which once required years of learning to master, and made them as simple as pressing a few buttons or swiping on a touch screen. There are still some rather complex tasks and gear involved when one considers operating some large vessels, but for the average recreational boat owner the list of electronics you’ll need to learn about is relatively short.

What boat electronics do I need onboard?

Multifunction displays (mfds).

  • GPS/Chartplotter

Fish Finder or Depth Sounder

Engine monitors.

How to Navigate a Boat

Think of multifunction displays, commonly called MFDs, as the “brain” for your boat. They incorporate most or even all of your systems into one single interface, which may feature either a touch screen or keypad control.

While it may seem overwhelming to think about combining all the different systems into one, don’t fret. MFDs are shockingly easy to learn how to use because most modern versions utilize a user-interface that’s very similar to the smart phone sitting in your pocket. You’ll discover that home screens have pages with app-like, tap-to-activate icons that allow you to choose between functions, and customizable pages that allow you to bring combinations of different functions up in split-screen modes.

If you’re just buying a new boat that incorporates the latest and greatest technology, you may discover that the MFD controls not only the marine electronics, but also all of the boat’s electrical systems. This ability comes courtesy of tech called “digital switching.”

Digital switching allows you to turn any device on or off right from the MFD screen (think of it like Nest for your boat). So when a boat is built with a digital switching system things like the light switches, livewell pumps, electric windows, and anchor windlasses can all be controlled with a tap or a swipe of your finger on the MFD.

marine gps and chartplotter

GPS/Chartplotters

You’ve almost certainly enjoyed the benefits of GPS mapping on your phone and in your car. Just as this tech has made driving around on land a lot less confusing, it’s made navigating a boat a snap. You may navigate with a stand-along GPS/chartplotter, the GPS/chartplotter function on your MFD, or even via an app on your phone or tablet (see 5 Best Marine Navigation Apps for Boaters , to find the right nav app for your needs).

In truth, there really isn’t a huge difference between navigating a boat with a GPS/chartplotter and navigating a car with GPS mapping. No, there are no roads and yes, you have to be aware of factors like water depth, navigational aids, and hazards to navigation. But the basic concept is quite similar and once you’ve checked out Marine GPS for Boats: Understanding the Basics , and Marine Navigation: How to Navigate a Boat , you should find that when it comes to figuring out simple navigational techniques the learning curve is quite short.

Marine GPS for Boats: Understanding the Basics

fish finder and depth sounder

Fish finders and depth sounders are also functions that are built into most MFDs but may be found as stand-alone units as well, particularly on small all-purpose fishing boats , center consoles , and other boats designed for fishing which don’t necessarily have larger, more expensive electronics systems installed.

They may have touch-screen or tactile interfaces, and generally have a number of settings that can improve performance quite a bit depending on factors like water depth, the level of suspended solids in the water, zoom levels, and so on. Fortunately, all modern fish finders have “auto” modes that can do most of the fine-tuning for you.

Ready to dig a bit deeper into the details? 

How to Use a Fish Finder

boat engine monitors

Engine monitors provide you with digital gauges like tachometers, fuel level, and engine temperature. Once again, this functionality may come through your MFD or you may have dedicated screens to show you nothing but engine data. In this case, however, having dedicated screens is more common because you’ll want to be able to monitor your powerplants whenever they’re running.

Engine monitors can take up a lot of screen space on an MFD, leaving less room for other systems to be viewed. And they usually need to be used simultaneously with things like chartplotters and fishfinders. So most of the time, engine monitors will have their own stand-alone screens.

Just about all of us are used to seeing digital gauges in the dashboard of our cars and trucks, so you should have zero problem adapting to using them in your boat. Just remember that with a boat there are often more variables to consider, and engine monitors may include things like drive trim level or rudder angle in addition to basic engine data.

portable vhf radio for boating

Of all the electronics on your boat, the VHF radio is one of the most important. It’s a critical piece of safety gear and the most reliable way to communicate with the authorities in case of emergency. Yes, we all carry cell phones these days, but cell service can get sketchy on many waterways and cell phones are prone to water damage.

Your VHF radio, on the other hand, is the best way to reliably get a call for help through to the authorities in any place or situation. VHFs are relatively simple to operate, so read through How to Use a VHF Radio and familiarize yourself with the process.

How to Use a VHF Radio

Explore Other Boat Electronics

What about all those more advanced systems found on larger boats, like autopilots, radar, or EPIRBs? We have info about them, too, which you can find below. But for the average boat owner, our short-list will cover all the bases. Learn how to use your MFD, GPS/chartplotter, fish finder or depth sounder, engine monitors, and VHF radio, and you’ll be ready to hit the water and enjoy some fun in the sun with confidence.

  • To learn more about autopilot systems, see Autopilot/Self-Steering Gear .
  • To learn about marine radar systems, see Boat Radar, Marine Radar, and Broadband Radar .
  • To learn more about EPIRBs, see EPIRBs - You Bet Your Life .

Read Next: Best Boating Apps for Navigation, Fishing, Weather & More

You May Also Like:

  • 10 Best Fishing Apps for Your Smartphone
  • Boat Trip Checklist: 10 Things You Need on a Boat
  • How to Drive a Boat
  • Owning & Operating Guide
  • Find the Right Boat for Your Lifestyle

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Electric boats

Thinking of buying a small boat here’s why it should probably be electric.

Avatar for Micah Toll

There’s no denying the appeal of gliding over the open water, wind in your hair, and the sun on your face. Boat ownership has long been a cherished dream for many, and with more options for small, affordable boats than ever, that dream is widely becoming a reality. But in recent years there has been an exciting shift in the market towards electric boats. The boating industry, like many other sectors, is undergoing an electric revolution. More and more people are choosing electric boats over their traditional gasoline-powered counterparts, and it’s not hard to see why.

When it comes to speedboats, electric boats may offer many advantages but are still unfortunately quite pricey. With many models costing over US $300,000, a luxury electric speedboat probably isn’t in most our futures.

But when it comes to smaller recreational boats, there are plenty of affordable options out there . So perhaps it’s time to take a look at all the reasons why an electric boat might be for you.

Smooth, quiet, and pleasurable ride

One of the less expected but no less important benefits of electric boats is the serene experience they offer.

Electric motors are incredibly quiet compared to their combustion-powered counterparts, providing a peaceful and smooth ride. This means you can enjoy the sound of the waves, the rustling of the wind, and the calls of wildlife, all without the constant hum of a motor in the background. This tranquil experience can significantly enhance your time on the water.

It’s a similar experience that many off-road vehicle enthusiasts are beginning to experience with electric ATVs and UTVs. While loud combustion engines can scare off wildlife long before they even see the vehicle coming, quiet electric off-road vehicles often allow their occupants to get the best views of nature and the animals that occupy it. The same is true for electric boats, letting you pierce further into serene and undisturbed rivers and streams to enjoy nature without the cacophony of a combustion engine.

veer x13 electric boat

Embracing sustainability with electric boats

One of the most obvious as well as most meaningful advantages of electric boats is their positive environmental impact compared to boats with combustion engines. As more people become increasingly conscious of their carbon footprints and look for ways to reduce their impact on the environment, switching to an electric boat could be a significant step in the right direction.

Electric boats produce zero emissions during operation, a stark contrast to gasoline-powered boats that emit carbon dioxide and other pollutants. This helps in mitigating climate change and preserving the quality of our air and water. That’s also a key reason that many lakes in the US, especially in residential complexes, only allow electric or non-powered boats.

Combustion engine-powered boats don’t only have global climate impacts, they also contribute to local pollution that you can see in your own nearby waterways.

small yacht electrics

Lower operating costs

While the upfront cost of an electric boat may be higher than a gasoline-powered boat, the long-term operating costs are considerably lower. Electric boats are cheaper to run as electricity is much less expensive than marine gasoline. And despite the higher up front cost, there are still plenty of affordable electric boats on the market.

Maintenance costs for electric boats are also substantially lower. Electric motors have fewer moving parts than gasoline engines, meaning there’s less that can go wrong. They don’t require oil changes, filters, or tune-ups that you would usually associate with maintaining a gasoline engine.

While most marine combustion engines require maintenance as often as every 100 hours, some electric marine motors can go as much as 3,000 hours without maintenance. For a weekend boat that gets used eight hours a week, that’s over seven years between maintenance stops.

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Increased safety

Electric boats offer a safer boating experience compared to traditional gasoline-powered boats. There’s no risk of gasoline leaks or carbon monoxide poisoning, which are real concerns with internal combustion engines.

Furthermore, the simple, robust design of electric motors means less risk of mechanical failures while you’re out on the water.

The lower noise of an electric boat also makes it easier to hear approaching threats or calls for help.

In an emergency, electric boats can even “idle” at almost zero power drain, allowing the use of electronics such as radios for long periods of time. A small folding solar panel on board can ensure enough power generation for extended periods of low-power operation.

small yacht electrics

Ease of use

Electric boats are surprisingly easy to operate, making them an excellent choice for novice boaters. The controls are straightforward, with no need to worry about gear shifts or engine stalls.

The instant torque from an electric motor also ensures quick and responsive acceleration, providing better maneuverability and control.

In fact, electric boats are even a great way to teach kids about boating without the added complications of combustion engines, which can be more finicky, louder, and more difficult to control.

small yacht electrics

Incentives and benefits

Some countries and regions offer incentives and benefits for those who opt for electrically powered boats, as part of efforts to promote eco-friendly alternatives.

These can range from tax credits and rebates on purchase costs to special access to restricted waterways and preferential docking.

Access to electric-only and non-powered lakes or streams is also a major advantage of electric boats over gas-powered vessels.

pol lux electric boat solar power

Maybe it’s time for an electric boat

The age of electric boats is upon us, and it’s an exciting time to be a part of the boating community. Choosing an e-boat is a chance to align your passion for boating with a commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility that effects us all.

Apart from their green credentials, electric boats also offer a host of practical benefits. The tranquility of a noiseless ride, the reduced operating costs, the increased safety, and the ease of use all come together to provide an enhanced boating experience.

While the shift to electric may not be for everyone, it’s an option that merits serious consideration. The market offers a variety of options to cater to different needs and budgets , making it easier than ever to make the switch. You can even find electric boats for under $800 on Amazon , believe it or not.

Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or new to the nautical world, the prospect of owning an electric boat offers an exciting twist to traditional boating.

Sure, gasoline-powered boats have their place and continue to serve many boaters well, especially on longer journeys, but the tide is undeniably turning. The sun is slowly setting on the era of fossil fuels and the electric revolution in boating is set to navigate us toward cleaner waters. Perhaps it’s time to embrace this exciting change and set sail toward a sustainable boating future with an electric boat. I did, and I don’t regret it.

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small yacht electrics

Electric boats

Micah Toll is a personal electric vehicle enthusiast, battery nerd, and author of the Amazon #1 bestselling books DIY Lithium Batteries , DIY Solar Power,   The Ultimate DIY Ebike Guide  and The Electric Bike Manifesto .

The e-bikes that make up Micah’s current daily drivers are the $999 Lectric XP 2.0 , the $1,095 Ride1Up Roadster V2 , the $1,199 Rad Power Bikes RadMission , and the $3,299 Priority Current . But it’s a pretty evolving list these days.

You can send Micah tips at [email protected], or find him on Twitter , Instagram , or TikTok .

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Small Boats With Electric Motors

You don’t have to stick with a boat that runs on fossil fuels. You can go full electric, solar, or hybrid! Check out some of these great boats with electric motors:

Table of Contents

Aquawatt 550 Elliniko

The Aquawatt 550 Elliniko isn’t the world’s fastest boat, maxing out at a speed of 20 mph. This is also true for most electric boats, it appears, but it’s a small price to pay to protect the environment (and your pocketbook given today’s gasoline prices).

Although Aquawatt 550 Elliniko is not as fast as other types of motors, it is just as reliable.

For those looking for a day of leisure on the water, this is an excellent choice.

The Elliniko has plenty of storage and passenger room, much like the Mercedes-Benz GLC. The center console in the navigation cockpit is big, and there’s a detachable mattress in the bow. This area also includes a self-draining anchor locker. There are four additional waterproof lockers for more sleeping bags, first aid supplies, or anything else you may need.

Considering Speed

In today’s market, twenty miles per hour is not slow compared to most electric boats. But it is slower than traditional gasoline engines.

The SAY29E Runabout Carbon is the world’s fastest electric boat, boasting a top speed of 93 miles per hour. You can’t purchase it just yet as they’re still in development, but stay tuned!

  • Passengers: 6 person
  • Weight: 1433 – 1654
  • Battery: Lithium ION 80 V 160/200 Ah

Aquawatt RIB

With a speed of 30 miles per hour, the Aquawatt RIB goes significantly faster than its predecessor which only went 20 miles per hour. In addition to being able to move quickly, this inflatable electric boat has a stylish and durable fiberglass bottom. Most Text would lead you to believe that because it is an inflatable vessel, carrying it from your house down to the dock would be harder on your back; however, that’s not the case at all!

The Aquawatt RIB is a wonderful electric boat for leisurely days on the water, particularly if you’re looking to decrease your carbon footprint! It can carry up to four or six adult passengers, making it ideal for family outings. There’s nothing like a picnic on the water to help you make some cherished memories with your children or partner.

This is a great option for anyone who enjoys hosting cocktail parties with friends or colleagues on the harbor.

This boat is the perfect place to network with colleagues or clients and build working relationships while making great memories!

The Aquawatt RIB comes in three distinct versions.

The lengths available vary from 12 to 16 feet. You can purchase them in 12-foot, 14-foot, or 16-foot hulls. Select the model that best meets your needs. Are you thinking you’ll only need as much space as you have now? Or do you think it’d be cool to bring a family friend or two with you?

Perhaps you would like to host small parties regularly?

  • Passengers: 4-6 persons
  • Weight: Depending on model
  • Battery: Lithium ION 80 V 160 Ah

Duffy 18’ Snug Harbor

This electric-powered boat can accommodate up to eleven passengers, making it the perfect choice for a fun party on the water.

While its top speed is only 6 mph, kayaking can be a great way to see new sights and get some exercise. Just make sure you allow yourself enough time to get back to shore if you have other appointments that day.

This boat’s battery will survive a full seven and a half hours at cruising speed! At top speed, it lasts just three and a half hours. Keep this in mind while on the water and make sure to save your battery.

With a full battery, you can travel up to 17 miles.

With aBattery life and speed in mind, it’s advisable to use this electric boat on smaller bodies of water like lakes or ponds. If you’re someone who likes staying close to the coast, using it in a harbor would be best. This type of vessel isn’t meant for long or dangerous trips; rather, it should be used to enjoy sunny days with friends and family laughing and joking around.

Not only is “Snug Harbor” an incredibly cozy place, but it also has a rich history.

Because this vessel is entirely enclosed in windows and has a very small deck, it’s not ideal for basking in the sun. Although, if you don’t mind people seeing you while you’re naked then have at it! On the plus side, being closed off from the elements makes it possible to enjoy your boat year-round – regardless of whether its scorching hot or freezing cold outside.

This vessel is perfect for any season!

  • Length: 18′ – 5″
  • Passengers: 11 persons
  • Top Speed: 6.0 MPH
  • Running Time:
  • @Cruising Speed: 7.5 hours
  • @Top Speed: 3.5 hours

Duffy 22’ Bay Island

This Duffy model has the most interior area of any of its prior versions, making it ideal for overnight cruising on water! What’s the origin of the name “Bay Island”? Because it features a large full-window enclosure big enough for 12 people! This protects you from the elements while also allowing you to see everything.

It’s like having your own little island out on the water.

Unlike the previous Duffy model, the Bay Island has a considerably greater battery life! You may bring an extra passenger along for the trip if you like, not to mention almost double the battery life at cruising and top speeds!

The Snug Harbor, on the other hand, will require some extra time to put into place because you’ll be able to take this model out of view of the coast without as many reservations or wariness as before.

With a stronger battery, you can go farther from land without as much worry of being stranded with no power (however, all Duffy models come with a fuel gauge at the navigation station).

So now you can make your party even better by adding this one extra element!

This model will also allow you to use a double battery system, which would enable you to achieve greater speeds. A single battery takes a full twelve hours to recharge, so a twin system would take double that. Keep this in mind when deciding what kind of battery system you’d like with this model.

  • Length: 22′ – 0″
  • Passengers: 12 persons
  • @Cruising Speed: 12.5 hours
  • @Top Speed: 6.5 hours

Duffy 22’ Sun Cruiser

Although the Sun Cruiser and Bay Island might look similar at a first glance, upon closer inspection, it’s clear that the Sun Cruiser is packed with amazing features, like a hand-polished mahogany steering wheel.

It’s like deciding between a bigger house with no backyard or opting for a smaller home with an outdoor patio.

Consider what you value most: a large backyard or extra living space inside the house.

This is a fantastic option for people who want to sun themselves on the water while doing so. Or for those who wish to toast their loved ones under the moonlight while breathing in the cool sea air.

Whether to have a deck on your boat is more pressing than deciding whether you want an outdoor area in your house. After all, if you’re on land, you can always go to a local park when you feel the need for fresh air and open space.

Keep in mind, on a boat the only land you have is what you bring with you.

There is also seating out on the deck, so you may retreat from the crowd if you want to have a confidential discussion. The Sun Cruiser is the ideal location for romantic getaways or a full-fledged party. It’s entirely up to you!

  • Capacity: 12 Adults

Other Models And Hybrids To Consider

If you’re unsure about getting an electric boat, here are a few others to look into:

  • Aquawatt inboard models with solar power
  • Nautic Expo center consoles
  • Nautic Expo runabout boats
  • Nautic Expo cabin boats
  • The Frauscher Mirage 740 Air
  • The Q Yachts Q30 tender
  • The X Shore Electric Boats (Called “The Tesla of the sea)
  • The Rand Picnic boats
  • The Rand Supreme boats
  • The Rand Leisure boats 

There are numerous electric boats available on the market today, but speed is one of the disadvantages versus gas-powered boats.

This problem will be resolved in the not-too-distant future, but boaters must now choose between speed and conserving energy.

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COMMENTS

  1. How To Wire A Boat

    Plus these two conductors will carry the current of all your electrical loads combined, so they are typically fairly beefy cables. Even a small boat (3-5 loads) we'd recommend at least 12AWG wire for this. 10AWG for larger boats (5-10 loads) is normal. 8AWG is getting toward over-kill in most cases for boats under 30ft.

  2. Marine electrics: the basics of 12-Volt systems

    Even people who are math-averse will appreciate the simplicity of the equations that allow us to weigh demand against capacity: Volts x Amps = Watts (example: 12 volts x 6 amps = 72 watts) Watts / Volts = Amps (example: 300 watts / 12 volts = 25 amps) Amps x Time = Ah (example: 2.5 amps x 5 hours = 12.5 Ah) The final key player in all of this ...

  3. 16 Great Small Boats With Electric Motors (With Examples)

    1. Aquawatt 550 Elliniko. The Aquawatt 550 Elliniko isn't the fastest boat on the planet, only reaching speeds up to 20 mph. This is the case with most electric boats, it seems, but it's a small price to pay to save the environment (and your wallet, considering today's gas prices). Despite the slower speeds as compared with combustible ...

  4. These are the cheapest electric boats you can buy right now

    Quietude 156. The Quietude 156 goes a different direction than the more affordable electric boats on this list, but that also makes it a bit more expensive too, at US $35,495. The four-passenger ...

  5. Boat Electrics 101

    Boat Electrics 101 - The online course to master the DC system on your boat. Planning, Rewiring, Troubleshooting by systems-guru Nigel Calder. ... The ABYC E-11 and the ISO 13297 standards cover the principal electrical systems on small craft. Even though they are legally non-binding, they are based on decades of experience of hundreds of ...

  6. Boat Electrical Wiring Made Easy, From The Ground Up, Part 1 ...

    Complete guide to wiring a boat electrical system from scratch. Starting from the 12V boat battery, we look at configuring a complete electrical system incl...

  7. Basic Electrcity How to Wire The Eletrical System On Your Boat

    Step 2. Draw a simple electrical schematic (diagram) that shows each piece of equipment, the fuses, switches, and how all of this will be connected. This is not a diagram of where the equipment is located on the boat. That will come in Step 8. It is simply a diagram of the electrical circuits.

  8. COMPLETE BOAT 12v Wiring Setup

    Warrior 165 (24 years old). I am not a marine electrician but 12v electrics are fairly simple a... I re-wire my entire boat with equipment bought from Amazon. Warrior 165 (24 years old). ...

  9. Small Motors for Boats: A Complete Buying Guide

    Ranked as a small motor for boats, it can still reach 9 km/h max speed to drive a 12 ft boat with a 150 kg load and provide more than sufficient propulsion for a 10 ft tender or work as auxiliary power for daysailers of up to 1.5 tons. Core specs. Performance. Speed. 9 km/h max on 12 ft boat with 150 kg load. Runtime.

  10. 10 Battery-Powered Boats Bringing the Electric Revolution to the Water

    Q Yachts Q30. Designed with aesthetics over speed in mind, this 30-footer from Finnish builder Q Yachts is an ideal lake boat. Top speed is just 16 mph, but at 7 mph it delivers a range of 70 ...

  11. Small Boat Electrical

    Small Boat Electrical. The focus of this month's article is electrical systems on boats under 10 metres. Often referred to as "small" boats in this market, they pack a lot of electrical punch. Along with advanced electronic navigation equipment and fishing gear, many boats in this size range also include all of the common conveniences of ...

  12. 8 Most Elegant Small Electric Boats For Lakes

    As a boat owner, you will face minimum, if any at all, restrictions when traveling through or near protected areas. #3) Multiple Power Sources - Boats running on electricity can be paired with wind, solar, nuclear, hydrogen, diesel, biofuel, or petrol generating sources. #4) Quiet - Not only do electric-powered vessels reduce marine ...

  13. Purchasing a Small Electric Boat| Reviews by SAIL

    Conclusion. Purchasing a small electric boat is an exciting venture that aligns with the growing shift toward sustainable transportation. By carefully considering factors such as range, charging infrastructure, design, motor performance, noise level, cost of ownership, manufacturer reputation, environmental impact, size, and features, you can ...

  14. The All-Electric Yacht Evolution

    In addition to emissions-free yachting, electric yachts deliver quiet, vibration-free rides that are easy to get used to. Courtesy Sunreef Yachts. Finally, there can also be the grin factor. "The Eelex 8000 can accelerate from 0 to 20 knots in 4.2 seconds," Wästberg says.

  15. Small Boat with Electric Motor: What's Your Best Option in 2023

    The Twin Troller X10 fishing boat is designed for the ultimate fishing experience with hands-free control and an in-hull propulsion system with recessed motors. The 3 HP small electric motor Spirit 1.0 Plus provides great portability as well as long-range between charges.

  16. A Small Yacht Electrical System

    List the electrical items that will be on during the period. T his may look something like this:-. Navigation lights. Chartroom/internal lights. Bilge pump. Water pump. Navigation instruments. Ignore the starter for the moment and assume a small yacht will use manual anchor winches. Next find the current consumed by each one.

  17. Sailboat Electrical System Upgrades

    Sailboat Electrical System Upgrades. An electrical expert takes a classic-plastic gem and imagines the ways he might upgrade its systems. To my eye, the looks of the Germán Frers-designed 1983 Beneteau First 42 and the ­roominess below make it a worthy candidate for an electrical-system upgrade. Ed Sherman. If you've been attending boat ...

  18. How to get the latest boat electronics

    Weather station (about £1,500) All of these system elements are readily available with NMEA-2000 interfaces. The total cost is under £5,000 for tiller and £6,000 for wheel auto-pilots including cabling and mounting gear. To save £1,200 the weather station could be replaced with a wind sensor (about £300).

  19. Understanding electrical wiring connections for boats

    Electrical wiring connections: Terminal blocks. Also known as 'chocolate block' or 'strip connectors'. These allow joints to be made and remade as required. Select the appropriate-sized terminal block for the wires to be connected. Using a wire stripper, remove just sufficient insulation to fit into the terminal.

  20. Freedom Electric Marine- The Best Small Electric Fishing Boat

    Experience an Entirely Different Way to Fish. Investing in a reasonably priced 10-foot boat can offer an array of benefits that enhance your overall experience on the water, particularly when you're looking at the Freedom Electric Marine Troller X10 or X10 Deluxe. The X10 series of 10 foot boats come standard with a zero-turn radius, allowing ...

  21. Boat Electronics for Dummies

    How to Drive a Boat. Owning & Operating Guide. Find the Right Boat for Your Lifestyle. Explore these five must-have boat electronics, including multifunction displays (MFDs), marine GPS and chartplotters, fish finders and depth sounders, engine monitors, and VHF radios. Understand the basics of these beginner boat electronics.

  22. Buying a small boat? Here's why an electric boat might be for you

    Lower operating costs. While the upfront cost of an electric boat may be higher than a gasoline-powered boat, the long-term operating costs are considerably lower. Electric boats are cheaper to ...

  23. Small Boats With Electric Motors

    The SAY29E Runabout Carbon is the world's fastest electric boat, boasting a top speed of 93 miles per hour. You can't purchase it just yet as they're still in development, but stay tuned! Passengers: 6 person. Weight: 1433 - 1654. Battery: Lithium ION 80 V 160/200 Ah.