catalina capri 18 sailboat review

Catalina Capri 18

With some TLC, a sturdy pocket cruiser becomes the perfect first boat

W hen my husband Richard and I decided to move to rural Door County, Wisconsin, we swore that our time had come at last-we were going to become boat owners. The Door Peninsula has approximately 300 miles of harbor-scalloped shoreline to explore, as well as a tantalizing scattering of islands across its western Green Bay waters and off its rugged northern tip. From our Forestville home, we'd be just a few miles from Green Bay, Sturgeon Bay and Lake Michigan, with a variety of launch ramps and marinas from which to choose. This was a no-brainer. We simply had to have a boat. Our ideal boat would have to be trailerable, giving us access to more distant ports of call when our time off work was limited. It would have to be user-friendly for singlehanded sailing; while we hoped to spend many hours on the water together, neither one of us wanted to forgo a great sail if the other were out of town. And it would have to be stable and solid, a reliable boat on a temperamental lake. As we started our boat search, another criterion reared its head: budget. We didn't have much of one, and this clearly was going to be a problem. It seemed we would never find a boat that could meet all our needs, and we debated worthwhile compromises. Then we discovered a 1986 Catalina Capri 18 named Karma and fell in love at first sight. Catalina Yachts, founded in 1969 by Frank Butler in North Hollywood, California, is one of the world's largest boat manufacturers. The company is recognized for its Fordlike role in bringing sailing to the masses. In fact, in 1995, Butler received a sailing industry leadership award for building boats that are "straightforward, offer price for value (and) are solid and honest." We also knew Catalina had impressive numbers of repeat customers. It clearly was doing something right. In the mid-1980s, Catalina sought to produce a pocket cruiser that would provide the features of a larger yacht in a compact, trailerable and affordable boat. It introduced the Capri 18 in early 1986, and to underscore the effectiveness of the little boat's seaworthy hull and solid performance in both light and heavy wind, singlehanded sailor Shane St. Clair embarked on a 28-day, 2,500-mile voyage from Oxnard, California, to Hawaii aboard his Capri 18 later that year. The message was clear: The Capri 18 may not be the fastest 18-footer out there, but she'll get you there comfortably. We were planning harbor-hopping, sail-camping cruises rather than ocean voyages, but that's what we wanted to hear. The Capri 18's stability comes from its respectable 7-foot, 7-inch beam, relatively hefty 1,500-pound weight and its 425-pound, low-aspect-ratio, internal-ballast lead keel. This keel draws just 2 feet, allowing access to all but the thinnest waters. It also makes launch and haul-out much easier for trailersailors than the word "keelboat" implies. The Capri 18's cruising comfort is built into the details: an extra-long cockpit with 6-foot, 10-inch contoured seats; a forward V-berth and two 7-1/2-foot-long quarterberths that can convert to a single large bunk; large portlights and forward hatch; a complete electrical system, including cabin lights; plenty of storage above and belowdecks, including a molded-in fuel tank locker; a 48-quart portable cooler that doubles as a companionway step and space for a portable toilet under the V-berth. A previous owner added that important optional item for us. While the boat originally came from the factory with a main and jib, we also were pleased to see that a previous owner had added a genoa, spinnaker and small storm jib to Karma's suit. They weren't new sails, but they held their shape reasonably well and would get the job done. The running rigging was in good shape too, and the 6-horsepower Johnson outboard was no crankier than any other 20-year-old Johnson outboard. Our Internet research indicated that other Capri 18s across the country were selling for $2,300 to $7,500, with models available from 1987 through the mid-1990s. (The Capri 18 became the Catalina 18 in 2000.) We felt that Karma's asking price of $3,000 was more than fair, given her good condition, number of amenities and the fact she'd spent her life in fresh water. Research also revealed glowing endorsements. From owners' groups and sailing-related discussion forums, we learned that a singlehander can easily manage stepping the mast, launching the boat and sailing her. We learned that, due to her size and simplicity, hidden maintenance problems are unlikely to rear their ugly heads. One skipper noted she is "well balanced and light on the helm," making her forgiving and kind to less-seasoned sailors. Another observed that the lack of a bulkhead makes belowdecks maneuvering much easier than aboard other pocket cruisers, and still another touted the maximization of storage space and airy feel in the cabin. Karma was just the right boat for us. We brought Karma home late in the sailing season, so we only enjoyed a couple of shakedown cruises before the snow flew: an evening excursion to Little Harbor and a day-trip to Snake Island, where we dropped the hook and went swimming in the late summer sun. All too soon it was time to haul her out and prepare our to-do lists for the following season. We had three lists. The first was the "Hot List," and fortunately this only had two items. Most important was to repair the inner starboard shroud, which was fraying just above the turnbuckle. We took Karma to Great Lakes Yacht Services in Sturgeon Bay, where they fused the new wire the same day-thanks, in part, to my German-born husband's contribution of imported Milka chocolate to the effort. The second item was to replace the trailer tires, which were nearly bald and going flat. Since we weren't planning any hardcore cross-country excursions, Richard went to our local Goodyear Tire Center and purchased two gently used replacements. Our next list was what we affectionately called the "TLC List." We wanted Karma to shine like a new penny, so first we scrubbed her topsides with a mildew stain remover and then her hull with an environmentally friendly hull cleaner. After that, we used a buffing compound to hide the few hull scratches and then, liquid marine wax in hand, took to her with an electric random orbital waxer. We already had sandpaper and varnish thanks to a home-improvement project, so Richard tackled Karma's woodwork-the cabin hatch door, the trim on the sliding cover and the tiller handle-with coarse-grit paper first, medium next and then fine. "I started with sanding down the wood around the entry," he explained. "I used my electric sander for the main areas, a Dremel for the smaller areas and everything else by hand. I sanded the tiller entirely by hand because I didn't want the risk of putting grooves into it or squaring the handle." Once the sanding was done, we applied two coats of varnish. Karma's bottom paint was looking a little rough, so we decided to remove the old paint and apply a new coat. Bottom-painting newbies, we thought a pressure washer might blast off the old coat. "That wasn't so successful," Richard noted wryly, "but it did get the larger pieces off." From there, we carefully removed the rest with a metal scraper and small chisel. Richard used the electric sander and a medium-grit sandpaper to sand down the hull surface, and then we applied two quarts of blue Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings bottom paint. Now we were ready to take on our final list: the "Cruising List." First up was the electrical system. While Karma's running lights seemed to be in working order, the cabin lights weren't functional. So Richard took approximately 50 feet of 14-gauge electrical wire and rewired the cabin. Now we would be able to see down below at night without fumbling with flashlights. Next, in keeping with convenience-at-night theme, he installed an LED light in the cockpit storage locker, located aft to starboard. This small, waterproof utility light emits very little heat, draws little current, is noncorrosive and is shock-resistant, and it's controlled through a switch in the boat's fuse panel. We also installed two chrome floodlights on the top of the mast. Also controlled through a fuse-panel switch, one light is oriented on the foredeck while the other covers the cockpit. In retrospect, these lights were a mistake; in the interest of saving money, we purchased them from Wal-mart. Although they're automotive-grade, they started rusting within weeks. A better addition was the Attwood masthead anchor light, a durable model we purchased through West Marine. This was a must-have if we hoped to do any overnight cruises. Richard ran the wiring down the inside of the mast, tucked within a half-inch PVC tube, and connected it to a fuse-panel switch. Next, we addressed Karma's greatest mystery: the hose to nowhere. After a hard rain, we noticed that the water in the bilge would rise and then sit; it had nowhere to go. A hose ran from the bilge into the starboard cockpit locker but wasn't connected to anything. We purchased a bilge pump with float-switch activation and connected it to the hose. We installed a 3-inch-long, 1-1/2-inch-diameter through-hull fitting-using Liquid Nails as a bedding compound-between the locker and the cockpit, and connected the hose's other end to that. Now, the float switch would activate the bilge pump, and the water would exit the boat via the hose through the locker, to the cockpit's aft end, to the transom drain. This system bypasses the fuse panel entirely and connects directly to the battery. To keep our battery charged, we purchased a Sensei solar battery charger. We can lay this in the cockpit when the sun is shining and pack it away during inclement weather or when we're away. Remembering our afternoon at Snake Island, we also purchased white adhesive nonskid strips and applied them to the Capri 18's little swim platform for an added measure of safety. Although we had hoped to keep our retrofit budget below $600, we decided to splurge and purchase an inflatable Seabo dinghy through our local Sam's Club. The dinghy collapses into its own carry bag for easy onboard storage; it's a great solution for pocket-cruising sailors on the hook or a mooring who wish to go ashore without getting wet. We're already making a new list, of course, as we look toward the 2010 sailing season. Karma's woodwork really should be varnished again. We were too late getting the tarp out in preparation for winter, so this past autumn's leaves did a number on her topsides. The bottom paint needs some touching up, as well. But really, there isn't much. Karma is ready to do what all Capri 18s were designed to do: Get out there.

Project list and cost summary 1986 Catalina Capri 18 $3,000

1. Starboard shroud repair $61.76 2. Gently used trailer tires (2) $40 3. Starbrite Mildew Stain Remover $10.99 4. Starbrite Sea-Safe Hull Cleaner $17.99 5. Chicago Power Tool AC Waxer/Polisher (10") $39.99 6. Scotchgard Marine Liquid Wax (500 ml) $17.99 7. Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings bottom paint (2 quarts, blue) $130 8. LED utility strip light (white) $12.99 9. Chrome floodlights from Wal-mart (2) $35 10. Attwood Anchor/Masthead Light $44.99 11. Rule-A-Matic bilge pump with float switch $39.99 12. Forespar 1-1/2" Threaded Marelon Mushroom Head (3"L) $21.99 13. ICP Global Sunsei Solar Battery Charger (SE-150) $39.99 14. 3M Safety Walk nonskid strips (2" white) $3.99 15. Seabo inflatable dinghy (2.5m) $500 Total retrofit work $1,017.66 (34% of purchase price) Grand Total $4,017.66

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• Sailboat Guide

Catalina Capri 18

Catalina Capri 18 is a 18 ′ 0 ″ / 5.5 m monohull sailboat designed by Gerry Douglas and built by Catalina Yachts starting in 1985.

• 2 / 4 Athens, OH, US 1989 Catalina Capri 18 $4,500 USD View
• 3 / 4 Athens, OH, US 1989 Catalina Capri 18 $4,500 USD View
• 4 / 4 Athens, OH, US 1989 Catalina Capri 18 $4,500 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

In 2000 Catalina Yachts renamed the CAPRI 18 to the CATALINA 18. Photo courtesy Adam Hunt.

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Catalina 18

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CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPRI 18 (CATALINA). Built by Catalina Yachts and designed by Gerry Douglas, the boat was first built in 1985. It has a hull type of Wing Keel and LOA is 5.49. Its sail area/displacement ratio 18.97. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the capri 18 (catalina).

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) was designed by Gerry Douglas.

Who builds CAPRI 18 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) is built by Catalina Yachts.

When was CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) first built?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) was first built in 1985.

How long is CAPRI 18 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) is 4.98 m in length.

What is mast height on CAPRI 18 (CATALINA)?

CAPRI 18 (CATALINA) has a mast height of 6.17 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

Capri 18 catalina

The capri 18 catalina is a 18.0ft fractional sloop designed by frank butler/gerry douglas and built in fiberglass by catalina yachts since 1985..

The Capri 18 catalina is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat.

Capri 18 catalina for sale elsewhere on the web:

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• Back Issues ::
• Year 2004 (Issues 25-30) ::

Issue #30 Nov/Dec 2004 Features Catalina (Capri) 18 Review

Capri 18 Club

The smallest catalina cruiser, welcome to capri18.com.

This site is dedicate to Catalina Capri 18 Sail boat.

What about Capri 18 that is so special? Here is a quote from one famous Captain who sailed her 2500 miles to Hawaii –

“There are lot of things I like about the Capri 18. I had the shallow-draft version which I think is all they make. Mine had a shallow, long fin keel. It had a big cockpit which you wouldn’t think would be an asset for an ocean crossing, but I had a life raft and a lot of other things in the cockpit for the trip, so I used that space well. I liked the interior too, because it essentially turned into one big bed. Most of the trip to Hawaii I was eating, sleeping or reading. I just did everything from that bed. And I liked that it was unsinkable; it had positive foam flotation. Directional stability was great because of the long fin, and it had an outboard rudder hung well aft. The last 5 days of that trip were in 40 or 50 knot winds and 40-foot seas. It was huge water! The first day I was severely intimidated. Then about 8:30 or 9:00 that morning I saw a school of about 20 dolphins cavorting in those big waves—swimming under and around my boat and diving into the face of the waves. As I watched them, I thought, if they can have a good time in this why can’t I? So the next 5 days I just surfed that boat. I averaged 12 nautical miles an hour! I did 120 miles a day sailing only 10 hours a day. Literally, I’d drop off the waves and surf for minutes on end with a wake like a ski boat behind me.  And the boat was perfectly controllable! Whatever I wanted to do at that speed, it was just a matter of moving the rudder a little bit and boom— it would drop left, right, cut—whatever. It was the most incredible sailing I have ever had!”

Capt. SHANE ST. CLAIR

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Which Sailboat?

Catalina (Capri) 14.2 Review

The Catalina Capri 14.2, known later as simply the Catalina 14.2, is an excellent sport sailboat and day sailer oriented toward family and youth use.  The boat was designed by Ted Carpentier and Frank Butler of Catalina Yachts .  Catalina derived the boat from the Omega 14 produced by Frank Butler’s Coronado Yachts prior to the formation of Catalina Yachts.  After the formation of Catalina Yachts, the Omega 14 design was modified by adding a foredeck and a cuddy beneath the foredeck to create the Capri 14.2.  Since 1983, over 5,200 Catalina 14.2s have been built.   Production continues .

While Catalina 14.2s are frequently used for family cruising, the boat can provide an exhilarating sailing experience due to its semi-planing hull and clearly sporting sail-area-to-displacement ratio of 36.  As a family sport boat and day sailer, the Catalina 14.2 is primarily composed of a large cockpit that easily holds 4 adults.  One owner reports sailing inland lakes and bays of the Outer Banks in the eastern U.S. with his wife and 3 children aboard, and with the cuddy and areas beneath the cockpit seats laden with camping supplies.  Forward of the dominant cockpit, a large cuddy cabin provides storage for day sail, picnic and camping supplies, batteries, and emergency equipment.  As expected for a sport boat or day sailer of this size, the cuddy provides no berths, head, or galley.  (If berths, galley, or head are important to you, consider the Catalina 22 , which is also easily trailered.)

The Catalina 14.2 benefits from its large production volume, long production run, that its manufacturer is still in business, and a plethora of parts continue to be available from the manufacturer and  Catalina Direct .  Active Catalina 14.2 class racing fleets and events exist but are limited compared to some other small sailboats such as Flying Scots, Moths, and Lasers.  Presumably, this is because of the boat’s intended purpose and reputation as a family sport boat and day sailer, rather than a class racing boat.

INDENTIFYING VARIOUS CATALINA 14.2 MODELS

Three models of the Catalina 14.2 have been produced since 1983.  The different models are popularly deemed “Mod 1”, “Mod 2”, and “Mod 3”.  The Mod 1 models have a single open space below decks and came from the factory with a marine plywood hatch to enclose the cuddy and the rest of the space.  The Mod 2 models, introduced around 1990, had a fiberglass box glued inside the entrance of the cuddy, which while preventing water intrusion into the cuddy and the rest of the hull in the event of a capsize, also made the potential storage space in the cuddy inaccessible and made maintenance of the inside of the hull more difficult.  Mod 2 models had a canvas covering over the hatch to hide the box.  Six years later in 1996, Catalina introduced the Mod 3, which removed the fiberglass box and included a water-tight bulkhead at the aft end of the cuddy, making for three nearly water tight areas in the hull, including the cuddy with the hatch installed and a space under each cockpit seat.  Mod 3 boats were delivered with a more durable and watertight plastic hatch for the cuddy.  Also on the Mod 3 boats, the wooden splash guards at the aft end of the deck where removed and instead the deck was simply rounded up from the forward end of the cockpit coamings.

The Catalina 14.2 hull is solid hand-laid fiberglass.  The deck is also solid fiberglass laminate with a molded-in non-skid pattern.  The deck is attached to the hull in Catalina’s standard shoebox design.  Unlike larger Catalina boats intended for more rigorous sea conditions, on Mod 1 and Mod 2 models the deck is fastened to the hull only with chemical bonding – there are no mechanical fasteners.  On Mod 3 boats, Catalina also through-bolted the hull-to-deck joint.  Older Catalina 14.2s may suffer damage of the hull-to-deck joint so that the water-tightness of the joint is compromised.  After suffering such damage, many owners strengthen the joint with mechanical fasteners with relative ease, as the joint is easily accessible at the gunwale.

Due to the design of the Catalina 14.2’s gunwale and exposed hull-to-deck joint, installation of a rub rail can serve to protect the hull-to-deck joint from damage.   Installation is straightforward.  Several rub rails from Taco Metals in Miami, Florida work well, particularly this white flexible vinyl model with white flexible vinyl insert .

The hull is stiffened with several plywood stringers beneath the cockpit, which also support the cockpit sole, reducing flex under foot.  The seats normally flex under foot, which while initially unsettling, provides for a more comfortable ride.  Due to the more rounded and thus stronger foredeck and the additional bulkhead at the aft end of the cuddy, Mod 3 boats are stiffer than Mod 1 and Mod 2 boats.

While wood stringers could be cause for alarm, few Catalina 14.2s see enough water left in the hull to cause rot.  If rot is discovered, replacing the stringers can be difficult due to tight working conditions inside the hull.  A few owners with rotted stringers reported solving the problem by knocking out the old wood and pouring water-resistant closed-cell expandable foam under the cockpit sole and seats.  Depending on the density of the foam selected, positive buoyancy is an additional benefit of such a repair.  Water-resistant closed-cell foam is crucial for this application.  The  TotalBoat Liquid Urethane Foam Kit, 6 Lb Density, Closed Cell for Flotation & Reinforcement works well for this application, providing both structural strength and positive buoyancy.

As delivered from the factory, the Catalina 14.2 lacks positive buoyancy materials in the hull.  If the hull is allowed to fill with water, the boat will sink.  On Mod 1 and Mod 3 boats, securing the cuddy hatch board fast whenever underway is paramount.

Catalina fitted foam plugs in the end of the mast on later boats, intended to provide some buoyancy in the mast to prevent turtling if capsized.  However, the relatively broad beam of the boat limits the effectiveness of this design because most of the mast remains out of the water unless turtled.  Many owners fit Hobie Baby Bob flotation bulbs (available on Amazon) to the top of their masts so that if the boat is knocked down, the boat does not turtle.

KEEL CONFIGURATIONS AND RUDDER

The vast majority of Catalina 14.2s were delivered with a pivoting centerboard that kicks up if grounded.  The centerboard is held in place when down by a shock cord that is connected from the aft end of the top of the centerboard to the transom at the end of the cockpit.  The rudder also kicks up.  Earlier boats have a solid wood centerboard while later boats have a foam-cored fiberglass centerboard.   Rudders are wood or foam-cored encapsulated in fiberglass.   Solid HDPE rudders are available from Catalina Direct.   A medium-aspect fixed keel was also offered that added 200 lbs of ballast to the boat, which makes her slower but more stable, closer to an older-style traditional day sailer.  Catalina named the boats with the fixed keel the Catalina 14.2 K.

As a semi-planing boat displacing little water, the centerboard model requires no centerboard trunk.  The centerboard simply slides through a slot with only a few inches separating the floor of the cockpit from the water below.  With enough speed, water can spray up through this slot into the cockpit.  Catalina Direct offers a  canvas gasket  to surround the centerboard in the slot, which prevents this spray.

The Catalina 14.2 is rigged a as a fractional sloop with a self-tacking jib.  The mast is anodized aluminum and supported by a stainless steel headstay and single set of swept-back anodized aluminum spreaders with stainless steel shrouds.  The shrouds include adjustable brackets rather than turnbuckles that make rig adjustments quick if not entirely precise.  However, the headstay includes a turnbuckle which can be used to achieve precise rig tuning.  There is no backstay, which makes un-stepping the mast easier and frees up the cockpit under sail.  The rig is very light-weight so that one person can ease the mast down when un-stepping and push it up when stepping, although another person is handy to guide the mast with the forestay.  All other rigging hardware is stainless steel.  In 2012, Catalina changed to a Selden made rig.  From the factory, the boom has no uphaul so that when the mainsail is dropped, the boom falls into the cockpit.  Some owners install an uphaul, rigid boom vang, or boom kicker to prevent this.

As appropriate with a family sport boat or day sailer, all control lines are easily accessible from the cockpit.  The mainsheet is managed from a stout spring-mounted pivoting block and jam cleat in the center of the cockpit.  Jib sheets are managed from jam cleats on the side decks.  The side decks also include a jib car track and cars that allow precise adjustment of jib sheeting angle.  With sails of this size, no winches are necessary.

The cockpit of the Catalina 14.2 offers good sole depth, seat width, and coaming height for relative comfort in a sport oriented boat.  The coaming height and side deck height may be considered low for some less interested in an exciting sail, or more accustomed to day sails in a Flying Scot or a more traditional day sailer design.  The cockpit seats are long enough to sleep upon.  The relatively small surface area of the cockpit sole, cockpit seats, side decks, and forward deck are small enough to prevent much flex.

Forward of the cockpit above the cuddy is a solid deck which is handy when dealing with the jib although feels less than secure in rough water.  The side decks are reasonably wide as well.

The only brightwork on the Catalina 14.2 comprised splash guards installed at the front of the cockpit and above the hatch to the cuddy, only on Mod 1 and Mod 2 boats.  These boards are easily removed for complete refinishing if necessary.  Mod 3 boats had this brightwork eliminated.

The Catalina 14.2 can be a very exciting boat to sail.  Hiking straps were installed throughout the cockpit from the factory.  With its semi-planing hull, the boat achieves speeds great in excess of a displacement hull sailing boat.  Its relatively deep centerboard and rudder provide excellent grip for pointing to windward.  Riding close to the water, the boat’s occupants easily sense the speed at which they glide over the water.  Due to its semi-planing hull and small size (and like most small sailboats), the Catalina 14.2’s pointing ability suffers immensely with blown out or otherwise worn out sails.

AUXILIARY POWER

The Catalina 14.2 did not come from the factory with any auxiliary propulsion, but an outboard motor mount was an option.  Many owners use rowing paddles for auxiliary propulsion, but due to the beam of the boat and the orientation of the side decks, paddles are difficult to use.  Many owners install small outboards, 1-3 h.p. are more than adequate for propelling the boat.

Electric trolling motors are a popular choice for auxiliary propulsion with a battery installed at the aft end of the cockpit against the transom or in the cuddy.  Either way, the battery should be installed in a watertight battery box secured in place with mounting hardware.  Due to the easily-driven semi-planing hull, electric trolling motors are an effective means for auxiliary propulsion, with only the smallest 30 thrust-lbs models necessary for adequate propulsion.  For owners interested in sailing into a headwind off a beach or against a tide, auxiliary propulsion is paramount.

The Catalina 14.2 is easy to trailer with nearly any vehicle due to its light weight of 340 lbs.  Due to its light weight, trailers require only a single axle.  The relatively flat bottom and retractable centerboard make trailers intended for power boats work as an effective trailer.  Trailering is easy due to the boat’s simple rig – only the forestay must be disconnected to unstep the mast.

In addition to an excellent family sport boat and day sailer, the Catalina 14.2 also makes an interesting tender for the right liveaboard or cruiser.  With its weight of 340 lbs, the boat can be rigged for davits or simply towed if the sailor is not against towing a dinghy.  Despite being a semi-planing boat and having an open slot for the centerboard in the cockpit sole, the Catalina 14.2 with its wide flat bottom has more initial stability than most tenders and can be well laden with crew and supplies without shipping water through the slot.  However as the boat is laden, its ability to point to windward suffers greatly.  The same owner who reports sailing with his family, children, and camping supplies, also reports being unable to point better than a beam reach without auxiliary power as the boat was so overladen.  With a larger electric trolling motor, large battery installed, and combined with a solar panel for charging the battery, the Catalina 14.2 can power through adverse currents with excellent if not unlimited range.

Due to the excellent build quality and simplicity of the Catalina 14.2, the ready availability of spare parts, and that the manufacturer is still in business producing new Catalina 14.2s, resale values of the Catalina 14.2 remain high.  New boats sell for over $6,000.  Nevertheless, neglected Catalina 14.2s can be had on the used boat market at a steep discount, making the boat a potentially excellent value on the used market.  Prices vary widely between $1,500 and $4,500,  depending on the year of the boat, installed accessories like motors, condition of the sails, hull condition, the condition of the trailer if included with the boat.  Neglected boats can be made ship shape for a modicum of investment compared with larger boats and typical tenders.  At the time of writing, only two Catalina 14.2s are available on Yachtworld.com , but many making good options are available on Craigslist.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Used Catalina Capri 14.2s for Sale on Craigslist Nationwide

Catalina 14.2 Brochure

CATALINA 14.2 UNDER SAIL, TACKING

CATALINA 14.2 RIGGING GUIDE

CATALINA 14.2 CLASS RACING

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2 thoughts on “ catalina (capri) 14.2 review ”.

• Pingback: 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 sailboat for sale in Virginia | Boats & Yachts For Sale | Used Boats and New Boats For Sale

Great article – thanks! I believe I have heard that the Capri 14.2 Mod 1 had a hollow transom and that the transom was reinforced (made solid) on a later mod (2 or 3). Which mod was this, and do you know the specs of how much thrust or weight each mod can handle?

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Compac 16 vs Catalina Capri 16

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How do these boats handle? What can I expect? Will the motion wear us out?  

Compac 16 is a more robust, tank of a sailboat, considered a POCKET cruiser... an extreme sense of the word. The Capri 16 is no hotrod, but it's lighter and generally considered of lighter construction as well... This is in a good sense, not meant as a negative, just a lighter faster, less forgiving boat. For a starter sailboat, the compac 16 is probably more forgiving (heavier ride) sailboat. However the Capri 16 is still supported through catalinadirect, so there is that... But then Compacyachts are still around, and have a VERY loyal following. It's basically a variant of cruise or race, or rather more cruise, or more race. Motion? I think you mean how it takes waves? On a small lake, its less of an issue, but 16 feet, is not going to give you a plowing bow (its a displacement thing).  

Either are excellent starter boats. I think the Capri will be the better starter boat. It will be more response to your actions, so you will learn more quickly what you are doing right or wrong. With that being said the Capri is no speed demon either. It falls in the category of being safe and forgiving. The compac is more a character boat. It is slower, better built and much more salty looking than the Capri.  

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Catalina 18 Trailer Launch Questions

• Thread starter Ajay73
• Start date Apr 25, 2019
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Smaller Boats

The questions I have are for those that trailer launch their C18's. I have a 2003 C18 on a Trail Rite trailer which I believe is the trailer sold with and for the C18. It has a six foot extendable tongue. With the extension in use there is 17 1/2 feet from the ball coupler to the center of the trailer wheels and 25 feet from the coupler to the C18 transom. The vertical distance from the ground to the bunk at the point of the wheels is about 40 inches. The ramps I have access to don't seem to have the 40 inches of water depth at the point of the trailer wheels when measured 17 1/2 feet from the water's edge. I'm thinking I need the 40 inches of water in order to easily float the boat off the trailer. Maybe that's a wrong assumption since the trailer is angling downward and the transom will be in water deep enough to float the boat. What are your experiences when launching your C18? When launching are your bunks below water at the point of the wheels? This is my first season with the C18 and I don't want to get to a ramp, step the mast and then find I can't float the boat off the trailer. I've never ramp launched a sailboat before so I want to be sure. Any help you can be will be greatly appreciated.  

victorhoisington

We launch all our boats at our club in Colorado with a strap, this includes boats up to a Catalina 30. Its a pretty simple and safe method. What you will need: - 25' 25,000# strap - we usually get these at the farm store - wheel chocks for the trailer - tongue wheel - you can use a high quality tongue jack or a dedicated wheel to support the tongue Basic method - back the trailer down to waters edge and block the trailer wheels. disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle, if using the tongue jack as the wheel, lower the jack to lowest setting. Attach the tow strap to the trailer securely, either loop it around the trailer or some other method. Attach the strap to the tow vehicle. Again do this securely (Do not drop the loop over the tow ball). Drive the tow vehicle up the ramp until the strap is tight and take the load of the trailer tire chocks, remove them and then back the trailer into the lake. Don't forget to setup dock lines to boat prior to launching. Retrieval is the opposite of launching and just takes patience to get the boat on the trailer exactly how you want it. Fair winds.  

Victor, when retrieving boats, does the trailer alone have enough weight to move down the ramp once it hits the water? I can see that when launching the trailer with the boat on it has a lot of weight and would easily move down a ramp.  

Smiling Couple

I have the same trailer set up and launch all the time. If I have 36" of water under the transom, she floats off. Remember the C18 is wide in the stern so there is a lot of buoyancy and normally will slip off if 1/2 the boat is floating.  

Yes, We usually don't have too much problems with the trailer moving down the ramp on its one. unless there is a big sand bar or something blocking the way. Last year we had a really low water year so some of the bigger boats had to "pull" their trailers out deeper due to a sand bar however, your c18 shouldn't be an issue.  

Smiling Couple, thank you for that information. Just what I needed to know. That will eliminate the doubts I had about the ramp launch. Absent that information I was going to have a forklift at a rack and launch lift the boat in the water.  

PugetSounder

Hi Nate. I did get the boat lifted off the trailer. It's still in the lifted off position. I decided to sand off the existing bottom paint and apply an Interlux 2000E barrier coat. I'm just finishing up with the barrier coat. I applied barrier to the bottom I could get at while on the trailer. Then I jacked up the trailer and constructed a cradle inside the the trailer perimeter. Then I dropped the trailer down, removed the bunks and keel support and sanded under the bunks and bottom of the wing keel. I have a few nicks to repair under the wing then I will apply barrier coat and bottom paint to the bunk areas and under the wing. Then I'll get the boat back on the trailer and bottom paint the remainder of the hull. Your trailer pictured looks a lot like mine but I have keel guide boards that funnel the keel to the center of the trailer. From the picture it looks to me like your trailer has a built-in extendable tongue. Is that square tubing lashed to the starboard side of the trailer something you made to to give further extension? I was thinking of doing the same thing with another 4-5 foot piece of square tube with its own coupler and double U-bolting it to the extension that came with the trailer.  

Nate, the Brownell boat stands sound like a simple, good idea. My cradle consisted of a couple of 4X4's sandwiching lumber with the shape of the bottom cut in. I placed the 4X4's across two columns of concrete block stacked four high.. I did this just in front of the keel and about a foot and a half behind the keel. This setup is really solid. The materials for it were cheap but putting it together was fairly labor intensive. I need to figure a simpler, quicker way for future years to get at the areas under the bunks and wing. The Brownell jack stands may be it. I'll simply have to bight the bullet and make the investment.  

I launched both my Catalina 22 and 25, without using the extension. I don't know about your launch, but at some, putting a trailer in too far can be a problem. Especially if there are power boaters who drive their boats on to the trailer, blowing out the end of the launch. With the 25 when water level was down, I did have to back the truck in a little farther. But launch and retrieve was like poetry in motion  

At our ramp if the tide is exceptionally high I have to use the extension. The 18 is a little harder to launch than my Catalina 22 due to it being shorter  

Attachments

Sweet looking Trailer  

Thanks factory built for the boat. I love the long tunge just slide out when you need it. My keel support goes from the back of the trailer fairly far forward. I see some wing keels only have a resting board. If the keel support board does not go all the way back how would you crank it on the trailer at low tide?  

AJ, I saw your trailer, extend your keel support board past the back of your trailer. You retrieving of the boat will be a lot easier.  

SC, your trailer is similar but not the same. It appears that your C18 is about as high off the ground as mine. Your trailer appears to be a bit shorter. Your wheels appear to be a smaller diameter. My trailer is more like the one PugetSounder shows in his post. I can see that your keel support board extends to the back of the trailer. My trailer doesn't have a flat section on the back frame. My bunks are 8 feet long. Yours don't look quite that long but that shouldn't matter too much.  

If you get the lower profile tires and extent the board to your rear support PS my back support is not flat it really makes a difference. But your call. So sail, smile and enjoy.  

Given the amount of web searching I did prior to the bottom painting project, I think I might create another post just with my "lessons learned", just to add to the knowledge base and help the next paranoid owner. Basically, if a moron like me can do it, anyone can. AJ - Yes, my trailer tongue slides out adding 3-4'. This tongue comes completely out, and then the bar hanging on the side of the trailer can slide into the trailer and it then accepts the end of the other tongue with the trailer ball socket.. It is heavy as hell, feels like cast iron. I decided to bite the bullet on the boat stands because I decided this might be an annual process. They made the process much easier, particularly not having to match a support beam with the curvature of the bottom and also functioning as the lifting mechanism. I didn't do the barrier coat as you did. I wimped out. Maybe next year or so now that I have this experience under my belt. SC - It is possible adding to the keel resting board would help. I am not sure. The boat still has to get over the upward curve of the bunks. If the trailer is in that deep anyway, I am not sure if extending the keel board adds anything. I definitely could be wrong though. I have only pulled it out of the water once, so I still have a lot to learn. Cheers Nate  

Nate, my tongue extension adds about 6 feet. Yesterday I bought a 5 foot piece of 2 1/2 inch square tubing and with a couple of U-bolts and ball coupler connect it to the existing extension. This should give me an additional 4 feet of extension. That should be enough for any ramp. I also bought a tongue riser that will raise the ball at the car about 12 inches. That should lower the back end of the trailer a little and help with floating the back end. In your pic of the front end is pretty much what I did in the front and back ends. There's no question this will be an annual affair with bottom painting so simplifying the process is a necessity.  

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