racing yacht deck

What is Yacht Racing? (Here’s All You Need To Know)

Have you ever watched a yacht race, with its colorful sails gliding across the water in a graceful dance? Have you ever wondered what it takes to participate in yacht racing? This article will take you through all you need to know about yacht racing, from the different types of yachts and races, to sailing clubs and regattas, technical knowledge and skills, safety, and the benefits of yacht racing.

We’ll also explore some of the most popular events and races.

So whether you’re an avid sailor or just curious about this exciting sport, you’ll find all the information you need here.

Table of Contents

Short Answer

Yacht racing is a competitive sport and recreational activity involving sailing yachts .

It is most popular in areas with strong maritime cultures, such as the UK, US and Australia.

Races typically involve a course that boats must follow, which can vary in length depending on the type of race.

Competitors often use advanced sailboat designs, and use tactics and strategy to try to outmaneuver their opponents in order to be the first to cross the finish line.

Types of Yachts Used in Racing

Yacht racing can be done with a wide variety of boats, from dinghies and keelboats to multihulls and offshore racing boats.

Dinghies are small, lightweight boats with a single sail and are often used in competitive racing.

Keelboats, on the other hand, are larger and heavier boats with a fixed keel and two or more sails.

Multihulls, like the popular catamaran, are boats with two or more hulls and are designed with speed and agility in mind.

Finally, offshore racing boats are designed for long-distance racing and are typically larger and more powerful than other types of yachts.

No matter what type of yacht you choose to race, they will all have common features that make them suitable for racing.

All yachts must have a mast, sails, hull and rigging, and will usually feature a deck, compass, and navigation equipment.

Additionally, racing yachts are often fitted with safety features such as life jackets, flares, and emergency radios.

Each type of yacht has its own unique characteristics, and some are better suited for certain types of racing than others.

For example, dinghies are better suited for short-course racing, while offshore racing boats are better for long-distance racing.

Additionally, keelboats and multihulls are often used for more challenging types of racing, such as distance racing or match racing.

No matter what type of yacht you choose for racing, it is important to remember that safety should always be your first priority.

Be sure to check the weather conditions before heading out and make sure that you have the proper safety equipment on board.

Additionally, it is important to get professional instruction or join a sailing club to ensure you have the necessary skills to race safely and enjoyably.

Types of Races

Yacht racing events can take place in a wide variety of forms and formats, from long-distance ocean racing to short-course inshore racing in protected bays and estuaries.

Each type of race requires different skills and equipment, and the type of race you choose to participate in will depend on your sailing experience, budget and the type of boat you have.

Long-distance ocean racing is a popular form of yacht racing, with races often taking place over several days and often involving multiple stages.

These races often have several classes of boat competing, with each boat competing in its own class.

These races may involve sailing around a set course or route, or they may be point-to-point races, where the boats sail from one point to another.

Inshore racing is the most common form of yacht racing, with races typically taking place over a few hours or a single day.

This type of racing is often conducted in protected waters, such as bays and estuaries, and generally involves shorter course lengths than ocean racing.

Inshore races may involve multiple classes of boat, or they may be one-design classes, where all boats are the same model and size.

Multi-hull racing is another popular type of yacht racing and involves boats with two or more hulls.

These boats are generally faster and more agile than monohulls, and races are often held over a short course.

These races can be highly competitive, with teams of experienced sailors vying for position and race victory.

Offshore racing is similar to ocean racing, but often involves much longer distances and more challenging conditions.

Races may take place over several days and multiple stages, and require a high level of experience and skill.

Offshore racing boats are usually specially designed for speed and agility, and may have multiple crew members on board to help manage the boat in challenging conditions.

Sailing Clubs and Regattas

Yacht racing is a popular sport around the world, with sailing clubs and regattas held in many countries.

Sailing clubs are organizations where members can come together to race, learn, and enjoy their shared passion for the sport.

Membership in a sailing club usually includes access to the clubs facilities, equipment, and training classes.

Regattas are large-scale yacht racing events, often hosted by a sailing club.

The regatta can be organized for any type of boat, from dinghys to offshore racing boats, and the races can be held over a series of days.

The goal of the regatta is to crown the winner of the overall race, or the individual class honours.

Sailing clubs and regattas are a great way for sailors of all levels to come together and compete.

They give sailors an opportunity to hone their skills, network, and make friends with other passionate sailors.

Additionally, these events are often open to the public, so they give the general public a chance to see the amazing spectacle of yacht racing up close.

If youre looking for an exciting and fun way to get involved with sailing, look no further than your local sailing club or regatta.

Technical Knowledge and Skills

Yacht racing is a sport that requires a great deal of technical knowledge and skill.

Competitors must be familiar with the physics and dynamics of sailing, including how to read the wind and manipulate their vessel to maximize speed and maneuverability.

They must also be able to understand the principles of navigation, so they can accurately plot a course and adjust it to take advantage of the prevailing wind and current conditions.

Furthermore, competitors must be able to read the weather and use that information to their advantage in the race.

Finally, competitors need to have a good understanding of the rules of the race and how to adhere to them.

Yacht racing is a complex sport with a steep learning curve, and it requires a great deal of experience and practice to master.

Safety is a key element of yacht racing, as it involves operating large vessels in often unpredictable and hazardous conditions.

All racers must be properly equipped with the appropriate safety gear, such as life jackets, flares, and a first aid kit.

It is also essential that all racers are familiar with the rules of the race, and have a good understanding of the safety protocols that must be followed in order to ensure the safety of everyone involved.

All yacht racing events must be properly insured, and there are often medical personnel on standby in case of an emergency.

Before any race, all participants must sign a waiver declaring that they understand the risks involved and accept responsibility for their own safety.

Benefits of Yacht Racing

Yacht racing is a great way to challenge yourself and take part in a thrilling sport.

It offers numerous benefits to those that participate, from improved physical health and mental well-being to an opportunity to travel and explore new places.

Whether youre a beginner or an experienced sailor, yacht racing provides an exciting and rewarding experience.

One of the main benefits of yacht racing is its impact on physical health.

It requires a great deal of strength and endurance, as the sailors must use their arms and legs to control the boats sails and rudder.

Its also a great way to get your heart rate up and improve your cardiovascular health.

Additionally, sailing is a low-impact sport, meaning theres less risk of injury than other more strenuous activities like running or cycling.

Yacht racing also has many mental benefits.

Its a great way to relax and take in the beauty of the ocean, as well as the camaraderie and excitement of competing in a team.

Additionally, it gives sailors the opportunity to put their problem-solving skills to the test, as they must think quickly and strategize in order to succeed.

Yacht racing also requires quick decision-making, which can help to improve mental acuity and develop a more acute awareness of ones surroundings.

Finally, yacht racing is a great way to explore new places and meet new people.

Races often take place in different locations around the world, meaning sailors can get a glimpse into different cultures and explore new destinations.

Additionally, yacht racing provides an opportunity to socialize with other sailors, as well as make connections in the sailing community.

Overall, yacht racing is a great way to challenge yourself and reap the numerous physical, mental, and social benefits that come with it.

With its exciting races and stunning locations, its no wonder that yacht racing has become a popular sport around the world.

Popular Events and Races

Yacht racing is an exciting and popular sport with events and races held all over the world.

From the world-famous Americas Cup to local regattas, there are races and events of all sizes and skill levels.

The Americas Cup is the oldest and most prestigious yacht race in the world, with the first race held in 1851.

Held every 3-4 years in a different location, the Americas Cup pits the worlds best sailors against each other in a battle of boat speed, tactics and teamwork.

The Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race is another major race, held annually in Australia.

The race begins in Sydney Harbour and ends in the port of Hobart, Tasmania and is known for its unpredictable and challenging conditions.

The Whitbread Round the World Race (now known as The Volvo Ocean Race) is a grueling nine-month, round-the-world yacht race.

This race is one of the most challenging and dangerous races in the world.

In addition to these larger races, there are many smaller local and national regattas and races that offer an opportunity for sailors of all skill levels to compete.

From small dinghy races to larger keelboat and offshore racing events, there are plenty of opportunities to get involved in yacht racing.

Yacht racing is a fun, competitive and rewarding sport and with so many events and races available, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Whether you are a competitive sailor or just looking to have some fun on the water, yacht racing is the perfect sport for you.

Final Thoughts

Yacht racing is an exciting and challenging sport that is enjoyed by many around the world.

With a variety of yacht types, races and events to choose from, there is something for everyone.

To get started, it is important to have a good understanding of the technical skills and knowledge needed, as well as the safety protocols associated with the sport.

With the right preparation and dedication, yacht racing can be an incredibly rewarding experience.

If you’re interested in taking up this exciting sport, make sure you check out your local sailing clubs and regattas to find out what’s on offer.

James Frami

At the age of 15, he and four other friends from his neighborhood constructed their first boat. He has been sailing for almost 30 years and has a wealth of knowledge that he wants to share with others.

Parts of a Yacht Deck: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 12, 2023 | Sailing Adventures

Short answer: Parts of a yacht deck:

The main parts of a yacht deck include the bow, stern, port and starboard sides, cockpit, foredeck, afterdeck, and swim platform. Other components may include safety railings, cleats for securing lines, hatches for access to lower compartments, and anchor wells.

Understanding the Essential Parts of a Yacht Deck: A Comprehensive Guide

When it comes to yachts, one of the most important areas to acquaint yourself with is the deck. The deck serves as the foundation for your maritime adventures and plays a crucial role in ensuring smooth sailing . In this comprehensive guide, we will provide you with an in-depth understanding of the essential parts that make up a yacht deck, equipping you with valuable knowledge for your voyages.

1. Foredeck: The foredeck represents the forwardmost part of the yacht ‘s deck. This area is typically spacious and flat, allowing for various activities such as sunbathing or hosting social gatherings. It provides easy access to the anchor and anchor windlass system , enabling smooth anchoring operations.

2. Cockpit: Moving towards the center of the yacht deck , you’ll find the cockpit—a well-designed area where navigation is carried out. Equipped with multiple instruments and controls, this section allows sailors to keep a close eye on their course and monitor various systems onboard. The cockpit also serves as a gathering spot for all passengers during navigation or when enjoying outdoor meals.

3. Helm Station: Situated within the cockpit is the helm station—often considered as the nerve center of any yacht. This is where skilled captains steer and navigate through different water conditions using a combination of traditional wheel control or modern joystick advancements found in technologically advanced vessels. The helm station embodies both power and precision required for safe maneuvering on open waters .

4. Flybridge: For those seeking sweeping views while relaxing or controlling their vessel , look no further than the flybridge located atop many larger yachts’ decks—accessible via stairs from either side near the cockpit area. The flybridge offers an elevated vantage point from which to soak in panoramic vistas and direct overall navigation activities confidently.

5. Swim Platform: Yacht decks are not limited solely to above-water areas; they often feature swim platforms extending from the stern. These platforms provide easy and safe access to the water for swimming, snorkeling, or enjoying watersports activities. With built-in ladders or steps, these platforms enhance the overall experience of your yacht adventure.

6. Aft Deck: Situated at the back of the yacht, the aft deck is an expansive space that connects the interior and exterior areas seamlessly. It is often used for dining al fresco, lounging, or entertaining guests. This area also serves as a gateway to other sections such as crew quarters, ensuring smooth operations on board.

7. Side Decks: Connecting various parts of the yacht deck are side decks—narrow walkways found on both port (left) and starboard (right) sides of the vessel. These corridors allow crew members and guests to move safely from one area to another without interfering with ongoing activities on deck.

Understanding these essential parts of a yacht deck empowers you not only to appreciate their functionality but also ensures that you make informed decisions while onboard. Whether you’re planning a leisurely cruise or embarking on an exciting charter experience, having a comprehensive understanding of your yacht’s deck will undoubtedly enhance your enjoyment and safety during each voyage.

So next time you step aboard a luxurious vessel and step onto its impressive deck, take a moment to appreciate each part’s purpose — knowing that behind every exquisite detail lies function and finesse working in harmony to create unforgettable seafaring experiences

How to Identify and Maintain the Various Components of a Yacht Deck

Owning a yacht is a dream for many, and ensuring its components are properly identified and maintained is crucial not only for optimal performance but also for maintaining its value. The deck of a yacht plays an integral role in its functionality and aesthetic appeal. Therefore, it’s essential to have a comprehensive understanding of the various components that make up the deck and how to maintain them.

1. Teak Decking: Elegant and Timeless One of the most iconic features on a yacht deck is teak decking. Renowned for its elegance, durability, and natural non-slip properties, teak decking requires regular maintenance to keep it looking pristine. Begin by cleaning the teak with fresh water to remove any salt or debris accumulated during your voyages. To maintain its golden luster, periodic scrubbing using mild soap or specialized teak cleaners is recommended. After scrubbing, rinse thoroughly to ensure no residue remains on the surface.

Additionally, consider applying protective coatings such as teak oils or sealants to safeguard against UV damage and prevent discoloration caused by exposure to sunlight over time. This will help retain the luxurious appearance of your teak decking while prolonging its lifespan.

2. Stainless Steel Hardware: Slick and Resilient Stainless steel hardware gives yacht decks a sleek look while offering exceptional strength and corrosion resistance. While stainless steel is highly durable, regular maintenance ensures it remains pristine for years to come.

Begin by inspecting all stainless steel fittings such as hinges, cleats, handrails, and stanchions for signs of rust or corrosion regularly. If any issues arise, promptly address them by removing the affected hardware and using rust removers or specialized stainless steel cleaners to restore their original shine.

To prevent future corrosion, apply protective coatings such as metal polishes or waxes specifically designed for stainless steel surfaces. These coatings create an invisible barrier that repels moisture while preserving the metal’s sleek appearance.

3. Non-Slip Surfaces: Safety First Safety should always be a top priority on a yacht deck , and non-slip surfaces play a vital role in preventing accidents. These anti-skid surfaces are often made of materials like rubber or textured paint. Keeping them well-maintained ensures optimal grip and performance .

Regularly inspect these areas for signs of wear or damage, as they can deteriorate over time due to constant foot traffic and exposure to harsh marine conditions. If you notice any uneven or worn spots, promptly address them by repainting or replacing the affected areas.

Remember to clean these surfaces regularly using mild soap or specialized non-slip cleaners. Avoid using abrasive cleaners that may degrade the texture and reduce their gripping capabilities.

4. Fiberglass Decking: Lightweight and Versatile Fiberglass decking has gained popularity in recent years due to its lightweight nature and versatility in design options. Maintaining fiberglass decks requires regular cleaning, polishing, and careful inspection for cracks or structural damages.

To clean fiberglass surfaces, use gentle soaps or purpose-made fiberglass cleaners along with soft brushes or sponges to avoid scratching the gel coat finish. Regular waxing with specialized marine wax helps protect the surface from UV damage while providing a glossy appearance that enhances the overall aesthetics.

Inspect the entire surface carefully, paying particular attention to stress points such as corners and edges where cracks may develop over time. Promptly repair any damages found using appropriate techniques such as epoxy resin application or seeking professional assistance when necessary.

Embrace the Pride of Ownership through Proper Maintenance Owning a yacht brings immense joy and satisfaction but also responsibility towards its care and maintenance. By understanding the various components of your yacht’s deck and implementing regular maintenance routines tailored to each specific material type, you’ll not only ensure its longevity but also enhance its visual appeal while cruising effortlessly across sparkling waters. Remember, investing time into maintaining your yacht’s deck is an investment in both its future and your pride of ownership.

Exploring the Step-by-Step Breakdown of Different Parts on a Yacht Deck

Title: Unveiling the Intricacies of a Yacht Deck: A Comprehensive Guide

Introduction: When it comes to luxury and style, few things can compare to a yacht. From cruising along crystal-clear waters to indulging in the sun-soaked ambiance, every moment spent on a yacht is an experience like no other. But have you ever wondered what lies beneath your feet as you embark on this lavish adventure ? Join us as we unravel the step-by-step breakdown of different parts on a yacht deck, giving you insights into the inner workings of these remarkable vessels.

1. The Bow: Let’s start our journey at the front of the yacht, known as the bow. This majestic area is where elegance and functionality intersect seamlessly. Extending forward from the vessel’s main structure, it provides ample space for sunbathing or simply relishing breathtaking views as you cut through the waves. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the bow also serves practical purposes such as housing anchor controls and storage compartments.

2. The Foredeck: Leaving the bow behind, we move towards another essential part: the foredeck. This expansive area plays multiple roles – be it accommodating water toys or serving as a helipad for those seeking grandeur from above. With reinforced structural integrity and strategically placed fittings, this part ensures utmost safety while maximizing pleasure during outdoor activities.

3. Main Deck: As we venture further aft on our deck exploration, we reach perhaps one of the most prominent sections – the main deck. Spanning considerable length and breadth, it provides an extensive canvas for dining areas with luxurious seating arrangements, alfresco lounges adorned with plush cushions, and even infinity pools that seamlessly merge with stunning seascapes.

4. Companionways: Moving below decks but not forgetting their significance in our breakdown are companionways – staircases connecting various levels of a yacht. Designed thoughtfully to optimize accessibility without compromising aesthetics, these passageways exude opulence through the use of exquisite materials such as polished wood or gleaming metal, creating a sense of timeless elegance.

5. Upper Deck: Now let’s ascend to a higher level – the upper deck. Often associated with panoramic vistas and sophisticated entertainment options, this space offers an elevated experience for socializing and relaxation. From fully-equipped bars where mixologists craft delectable cocktails to outdoor cinemas that transform starlit nights into unforgettable movie experiences, the upper deck epitomizes refined opulence.

6. Sun Decks: Prepare to be dazzled as we explore the sun decks – premier spots on yachts customized for ultimate leisure and pleasure. Featuring everything from jacuzzis, tanning beds, and luxurious loungers to fully equipped outdoor gyms, these decks are meticulously designed to cater to guests seeking both tranquility and exhilaration under the generous embrace of the sun.

Conclusion: As our journey comes to an end, we hope you now have a deeper understanding of the various parts that make up a yacht deck. From the bow that sets sail towards endless horizons, through companionways connecting spaces with eloquence, all the way up to sun-drenched decks enticing you into moments of pure bliss – each element harmoniously blends functionality with unparalleled luxury. So next time you step foot on a yacht deck, take a moment to appreciate not only its beauty but also the intricate craftsmanship that goes into creating these floating marvels where dreams forever find solace.

Frequently Asked Questions: All You Need to Know About Parts of a Yacht Deck

Welcome to our Frequently Asked Questions section, where we aim to provide you with all the information you need to know about the various parts of a yacht deck. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting your adventure on the open seas, understanding the components of a yacht deck is crucial for your safety and enjoyment. So, let’s dive in!

1. Bow: Starting at the front of the yacht, the bow is the pointed part that cuts through water . It’s important to familiarize yourself with this area as it plays a role in anchoring and docking maneuvers.

2. Cockpit: Moving towards the middle of the vessel, we encounter the cockpit – often referred to as the heart of any yacht. This is where navigation controls are located, allowing you to steer and control your vessel efficiently.

3. Helm Station: Located within the cockpit, the helm station houses all essential instruments for steering and navigating your yacht safely . From steering wheels or joysticks to electronic displays providing vital information such as speed and depth measurements – this area ensures smooth sailing .

4. Deck Hatches: These are openings on your yacht’s deck that allow access below decks while also providing ventilation and natural lighting for cabins and other interior spaces. Be cautious when opening and closing hatches to avoid any accidents.

5. Stanchions and Lifelines: Safety should always be a top priority at sea, which is why stanchions (upright posts) with accompanying lifelines are installed around most yacht decks . These prevent accidental falls overboard , acting as a physical barrier between you and potential danger.

6. Cleats: These metal fittings are found along both sides of a yacht’s deck used for securing lines and ropes during docking or anchoring procedures. They play an essential role in keeping your vessel in place when necessary.

7. Toe Rail: Running along both sides of a yacht’s deck edge, toe rails serve multiple purposes – acting as footholds for crew members, providing additional security during maneuvers, and also preventing water from spilling onto the deck.

8. Windlass: Located at the front of your yacht near the bow, a windlass is a mechanical device used to control anchor deployment and retrieval. It makes anchoring your vessel much easier and more efficient.

9. Scuppers: Found at various points on the deck, scuppers are small drainage holes that prevent water from accumulating on the deck surface. It’s important to keep these clear to ensure proper water drainage during rough weather conditions.

10. Bimini Top: For those seeking shelter from the sun or light rain showers while on their yacht, a bimini top provides excellent protection. These fabric canopies extend over part of the cockpit or helm station area and can be folded away when not needed.

Knowing these essential parts of a yacht deck will enhance your overall sailing experience while keeping you safe onboard. We hope this comprehensive overview has provided you with valuable insights into each component’s purpose and functionality. So why wait? Set sail, explore new horizons, and enjoy your time on the open seas !

Navigating the World of Yacht Decks: Unraveling Common Queries about Different Parts

Welcome aboard the vibrant world of yacht decks! As you embark on this exhilarating journey, it’s important to navigate through the vast array of options and understand the intricacies of different parts . In this blog post, we will unravel common queries and provide detailed explanations about various components that make up a yacht deck.

1. Teak Decking: The Jewel in Yachting’s Crown Teak decking is often considered the epitome of luxury and elegance in the yachting industry. Crafted from durable teak wood, it dazzles with its warm honey-brown hue and exquisite grain patterns. Renowned for its unique non-slip properties, teak decking ensures safety while exuding timeless beauty.

2. Synthetic Teak: Embracing Innovation without Sacrificing Beauty In recent years, synthetic teak has emerged as a popular alternative to traditional teak decking. Made from high-quality PVC materials, synthetic teak mimics the appearance of real teak flawlessly while providing superior resistance to wear and weather conditions . Its low maintenance requirements and customizable design options have garnered attention among modern yacht enthusiasts.

3. Cork Decking: Nature’s Silent Co-star Cork decking offers a delightful blend of eco-friendliness and aesthetic appeal. Sourced from sustainable cork oak trees, cork decks provide excellent insulation properties while reducing noise levels aboard your yacht. With its distinct visual texture and tactile sensation underfoot, cork decking adds a touch of sophistication to any vessel.

4. EVA Foam Flooring: Comfort Meets Style If ultimate comfort is what you seek, look no further than EVA foam flooring for your yacht deck. Known for its cushioning effect, this closed-cell foam not only provides exceptional shock absorption but also reduces fatigue during long hours at sea. Available in an extensive range of colors and patterns, EVA foam allows for creative customization without compromising on durability.

5. Safety at Sea: Non-Slip Decking Solutions A primary concern for every yacht owner is the safety of all onboard. Fortunately, various non-slip decking solutions are available to address this issue. From specialized grip paint to innovative anti-slip tapes, these options ensure secure footing even in harsh weather conditions, granting peace of mind to both seasoned sailors and first-time yacht enthusiasts.

6. Maintenance Tips: Preserving the Splendor To keep your yacht deck looking pristine, regular maintenance is crucial. Regardless of the material you choose, routine cleaning and proper upkeep will protect its longevity. It’s recommended to use gentle, non-abrasive cleansers specifically designed for marine applications. Additionally, investing in protective covers or mats when necessary can prevent unnecessary wear and tear over time.

7. Beyond Yacht Decks: Exploring Additional Outdoor Spaces While the focus has been on yacht decks thus far, it’s important not to overlook other outdoor spaces onboard that contribute to an enhanced yachting experience . From stylish balconies and luxurious sunbathing areas to stunning swimming pools and expansive helipads, these additional spaces further elevate the overall opulence and functionality of a yacht.

So there you have it – a comprehensive guide through the thrilling world of yacht decks! Armed with knowledge about different parts and their unique features, you can make informed decisions when customizing your dream vessel’s deck. May your yachting adventures be filled with endless beauty, comfort, and safety as you traverse the vast seas with style!

Mastering the Anatomy of a Yacht’s Exterior: Exploring Key Features on the Deck

When it comes to yachting, understanding the intricate details of a yacht’s exterior is key to fully appreciating its luxury and functionality. While there are numerous elements that contribute to the overall design and performance of a yacht, in this article we will focus on exploring the key features found on the deck – arguably one of the most important areas where both aesthetics and practicality collide.

Firstly, let’s talk about one of the most prominent features: the bow. As a focal point that captivates attention both at sea and in port, the bow sets the tone for the entire vessel. From sleek and minimalist designs to more extravagant embellishments, yacht bows can vary greatly depending on personal preference and style. It’s not uncommon to find comfortable seating or spacious sunpads at this prime location—perfect for enjoying breathtaking views while cruising through azure waters.

Moving towards the aft section of a yacht’s deck, you’ll discover another crucial component known as the cockpit. This well-designed area serves as a central hub for outdoor activities, socializing, and entertainment. Equipped with comfortable seating arrangements, dining tables, wet bars, and even jacuzzis on larger yachts—a lively atmosphere can be created to suit any occasion.

Continuing our exploration along the deck side rails, we encounter cleverly incorporated storage spaces where various water toys such as jet skis or paddleboards can be securely stowed away. These compartments not only maintain a clean and organized appearance but also provide easy access for quick deployment when desired aquatic adventures beckon.

One cannot overlook another vital feature found throughout a yacht’s exterior: handrails. Not only do they serve as safety devices aiding in movement around the vessel but they are also meticulously designed to seamlessly blend with the overall aesthetic. Manufactured using high-quality materials like stainless steel or polished teakwood, these handrails embody elegance without compromising functionality—an essential aspect of any well-mastered yacht design.

As we venture further aft, the stern of a yacht reveals the laudable effort invested in engineering and innovation. The swim platform—a modern-day luxury on many yachts—extends beyond traditional hull design, creating an inviting space for water enthusiasts to easily access and relish in aquatic activities. Whether it’s swimming, snorkeling or simply diving into crystal-clear seas, this platform enhances the overall experience of being at sea.

Lastly, no discussion on a yacht’s exterior would be complete without mentioning its navigational equipment. From sleek radar domes to state-of-the-art GPS systems and satellite communication devices, these technological marvels ensure a safe voyage while seamlessly integrating with the yacht ‘s exterior design. Manufacturers strive to strike a balance between functional efficiency and aesthetic appeal so that these vital components never disrupt the beauty of the vessel.

In conclusion, understanding the anatomy of a yacht’s exterior is an art form that commands meticulous attention to detail. From bow to stern, every element serves both practical purposes as well as adding to the overall allure and sophistication of these floating masterpieces. So next time you find yourself aboard a yacht, take a moment to appreciate the craftmanship and clever engineering that lies beneath its stunning exterior—and let it transport you into a world where luxury meets adventure on every deck.

Even Racing Yachts Have Pit Crews

It takes sailmakers, carbon specialists, hydraulics experts and workers “who can do anything” to keep these boats in racing shape. And don’t forget the chef.

A man in a white t-shirt works on the sail of a boat.

By Kimball Livingston

It takes a small army, not a navy, to keep Maxi yachts performing, race after race. More precisely, it takes an army corps of engineers.

The team behind the American yacht Bella Mente intends to start the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup, which begins on Monday, with two carbon-specialist boat builders standing by. Each is capable of repairing major damage. One is a full-time employee; the other is recruited for practice and for the races at the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda in Porto Cervo, Sardinia.

For shore support, add a sailmaker. Add a hydraulics expert. Add multiple “utilitarian guys who can do anything,” as described by the project manager and team director, Rob Ouellette.

Add a driver for the sizable and fast chase boat that will accompany the yacht around the course each day. Add a coach who will ride along to video maneuvers for review in the daily debrief, while also keeping an eye out for insights into how other boats are performing. Also riding along: a repair kit, engine spares, first aid, oxygen and a defibrillator.

Ashore there is a chef, and there are chef’s helpers. They will work long hours in the rented crew houses. Between sailors and the shore team, there are 30 mouths to feed three times a day, Ouellette said: “We go through a lot of calories.” He might have mentioned that the average size of a person on a Maxi crew is big, very big.

Include also the sailing crew themselves. Each brings expertise. Sail trimmers will consult the sailmaker after each race day regarding adjustments or repairs. The 10 grinders, who spin winch handles at the behest of the trimmers, will break the winches apart after races and inspect and repair the gears, Ouellette said: “The grinders ‘own’ everything mechanical.

“The shore crew has long days, but there is so much to go through, they would never get it done on their own,” he said. “There is no line where responsibility ends or begins. Anything you trashed today is yours to make ready for tomorrow.”

Even if it takes working until tomorrow. The ethic is no different from what you find in the pit crews of high-end auto racing, but more members of a sailing team get time on the course.

Bella Mente, 74 feet, is the fourth boat of that name for the businessman Hap Fauth, who is also a principal backer of the New York Yacht Club’s challenge for the America’s Cup, American Magic .

About leading the team to Porto Cervo, Ouellette said, “It’s a lovely place to sail, but there are not a lot of services. We will have three 40-foot containers, and with them all the resources to do anything we need. One container is for sail repair and sail storage. One is a composites shop, and one is a machine shop. You need that to race at this level.”

Vesper, last year’s winner of the Mini Maxi division, travels with two 40-foot containers. According to the project manager Ken Keefe, one container is devoted to sail storage and repair, with two heavy-duty sewing machines, and is occupied by a dedicated sailmaker.

That role supplements the sailmakers who participate in races.

“Our other container has a full mechanical workshop, including a lathe, drill press and a stock of spares for the parts most likely to fail,” Keefe said. “Most of the guys who sail on the boat can also work on the boat, but we bring in a hydraulics engineer to manage a winch system that is complicated — no more than it needs to be — but not robust. It needs constant attention and upgrading.”

Vesper will skip this regatta in favor of Caribbean races, but the many returning boats include Proteus in the Mini Maxi group. The man in charge of Proteus, Reggie Cole, described the program as being “as lean as they come in our fleet.” That translates to relying heavily on the sailing crew for maintenance, while bringing only two of the team’s three containers.

Proteus will have one boat builder standing by to repair, for example, a hole in the carbon hull in event of that collision that everyone fears.

“He’ll work through the night if need be,” Cole said, backed, of course, by members of the sail team. Cole added that the chase-boat driver does more than follow the races. The driver performs a critical role between races. With Proteus moored in the harbor and the containers on a pier, there is continual shuttling back and forth.

In the same Mini Maxi group, Sir Peter Ogden skins the cat differently by keeping things tight with his Jethou team and man for all seasons Stuart Branson, who said he had been with Sir Peter for 22 years. Branson manages logistics, arranges flights and hires the chefs.

Branson said his sailing crew was “self-sufficient.” “We come with two containers equipped with tools and parts and carbon resin,” he said. “Sail repair is us. We’re a tight group of 16, and we can fix just about anything.”

One might expect to find the biggest shore teams working for the biggest boats, the classic and classic-replica giants of the J Class. However, they are more like the tight Jethou squad.

Peter Holmberg , an Olympic silver medalist and the helmsman for the 140-foot Topaz, said that while Js have their container villages, “The permanent crew is essentially the shore team. There will be a captain, first mate, bosun, chef and stew working on the boat year-round and contracting outside work as needed. Once racing starts, the entire crew of sailors becomes the shore team because they are, in their full-time professions, riggers, sailmakers, carbonologists. They are there to exercise all their skills before the race, in the race and after. Whatever it takes.”

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Countdown to the 44Cup Baiona

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ABOUT THE BOAT

The RC44 is a light displacement, high performance one-design racing yacht competing in the 44Cup, a five-stop international racing tour.

Co-designed by five-time America’s Cup winner Russell Coutts with naval architect Andrej Justin, the RC44 boats are strictly identical in terms of construction, shape of hull, appendages and weight/weight distribution, as well as a 50-50 split between amateurs and professionals in each eight-person crew.

With everything, from the keel to the tip of the mast, made entirely from carbon, and with a powerful sail plan, the RC44 is rapid downwind, commanding upwind and performs exceptionally in both light winds and heavier breezes.

The RC44’s innovative and technical design present an exciting new hybrid sailing challenge, with the crews expected to hike like a sports boat and grind as you would on a keelboat.

“We wanted to include a degree of complexity so an owner can experience what a top-end race boat is like to sail, and it delivers on that,” explains Coutts. “I wanted to create a boat that would be exciting to sail downwind and powerful in light winds.”

“I also wanted a boat that could be sailed short-handed with a deck layout incorporating many non-standard adjustments. The trim tab on the keel is an example of that, to reduce keel area yet still achieve good upwind performance and maneuverability. It adds to the boat’s complexity but the racing enthusiast will enjoy trialing the different tab angles and the resulting performance benefits.”

LOGISTICALLY SPEAKING.....

As well as the strict one-design class rules, it was important the RC44 was a non-complicated boat to own and could be raced in the summer and put away relatively easily in the winter.

The RC44 Class has constantly strived to help owners by developing innovative solutions to facilitate the logistics and minimise costs.

As John Bassadone, owner of Peninsula Petroleum, enthused, “Definitely the logistics makes everything a lot easier; the whole way the boat is set-up is very clean and very easy ,” while Artemis Racing head Torbjorn Tornqvist added, “The boat is exciting, there is nothing out there that can compare and the concept of moving it around means that the budget is reasonable.”

So how do they do it?

The stern of the boat is removable to allow the transportation length to be less than 40 feet. The keel fin attachment is also easily detachable and the mast is assembled in two parts, enabling all equipment to be stored and transported on a flat deck container to anywhere in the world. To complement this, the RC44 class fits into a custom made container that not only carries the boat but serves as a cradle once the boat arrives at a regatta venue. All equipment including sails, rudder, keel fin, boom, mast and spares are stored in compartments within the container. The bulb is transported in position under the hull.

An RC44 takes just one day to reassemble when it arrives at its next port of call.

Then there is the 44Cup's expert technical support team, who work to ensure every boat is in prime racing condition every time it ventures onto the start line and can even get a boat back on the water just an hour after a major collision.

THE MEN BEHIND THE CLASS

Name: Russell Coutts Nationality: New Zealand Born: 1 March 1962 in Wellington, New Zealand Academic background: The University of Auckland, Bachelor of Engineering

Career highlights: Russell Coutts has won the America's Cup as a skipper four times and once as CEO of ORACLE Racing at the 34th America's Cup in 2013. His sailing record includes winning the ISAF Youth World Championships, Finn class gold at the 1984 Olympics, three World Match Racing Championships, numerous international match race wins and IOR, IMS and One Design World Championship victories. In New Zealand he has been honoured with a Commander of the British Empire and the Distinguished Companion of New Zealand Order of Merit and has twice been the ISAF World Sailor of the Year.

Name: Andrej Justin Nationality: Slovenian Born: 1959 in Koper on the Adriatic coast Academic background: Studied electronics and civil engineering in Ljubljana, Slovenia and architecture in Graz, Austria before graduating in Yacht Design from the Westlawn Institute of Marine Technology in 1993.

Career Highlights : Andrej has lived with yachts and the sea all through his life. He designed his first boats for the biggest Slovenian boat builder ELAN in the late 1980s, and has designed several racing boats from 33-foot match race one design to 80-foot carbon, canting keel Maxi Jena. He has also designed cruisers from 37 foot to the Palmer Johnson 90' in aluminium.

Attainable Adventure Cruising

The Offshore Voyaging Reference Site

Sailboat Deck Layouts

I’m going to use the Outbound 46 as a base to write about optimal deck layouts for sailboats. Information that will help anyone to either select a good deck layout when buying a boat, or fix a screwed-up one on a boat they already have.

Good Deck Layouts Are Rare

That last sentence may surprise many since it would be logical to expect cruising sailboats to have good and functional deck layouts, but as an ex-sailmaker and longterm racer, the thing that never ceases to amaze me is that most boats, particularly those marketed as cruisers, come out of the yard with the rig and deck gear set up so poorly that actually sailing them is nothing but a huge chore, and it takes years for even a knowledgeable owner to sort things out—just read Colin’s trials and tribulations with the rig on his Ovni 435 to see what I mean.

This is so bad that I’m pretty sure that the popularity of in-mast and in-boom mainsail furling systems is in large part because most boats are so poorly set up for reefing that owners have been scared off simple and robust systems and toward complex, fragile, and expensive ones.

I will also write, once more, about speed. I know, we are cruisers, so why do we care? Well, up to you, but to me if we are going to really cruise under sail, rather than just motor around with an oversized flag pole and occasionally unroll a sail attached to it as we see so often these days, we might as well do it properly.

Seriously, a well set-up boat, efficiently reeling off the miles under wind power alone, is one of life’s sublime pleasures, and knowing that we can control the rig and shorten sail quickly and efficiently without automation or brute strength is the cherry on top.

Let’s look at how to do that:

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More Articles From Online Book: Sail Handling and Rigging Made Easy:

Six Reasons To Leave The Cockpit Often
Don’t Forget About The Sails
Your Mainsail Is Your Friend
Hoisting the Mainsail Made Easy—Simplicity in Action
Reefs: How Many and How Deep
Reefing Made Easy
Reefing From The Cockpit 2.0—Thinking Things Through
Reefing Questions and Answers
A Dangerous Myth about Reefing
Mainsail Handling Made Easy with Lazyjacks
Topping Lift Tips and a Hack
12 Reasons The Cutter Is A Great Offshore Voyaging Rig
Cutter Rig—Should You Buy or Convert?
Cutter Rig—Optimizing and/or Converting
Cruising Rigs—Sloop, Cutter, or Solent?
The Case For Roller-Furling Headsails
UV Protection For Roller Furling Sails
In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing—Convenience and Reliability
In-Mast, In-Boom, or Slab Reefing —Performance, Cost and Safety
The Case For Hank On Headsails
Making Life Easier—Roller Reefing/Furling
Making Life Easier—Storm Jib
Gennaker Furlers Come Of Age
Swept-Back Spreaders—We Just Don’t Get It!
Q&A: Staysail Stay: Roller Furling And Fixed Vs Hanks And Removable
Rigid Vangs
Rigging a Proper Preventer, Part 1
Rigging a Proper Preventer—Part 2
Amidships “Preventers”—A Bad Idea That Can Kill
Keeping The Boom Under Control—Boom Brakes
Downwind Sailing, Tips and Tricks
Downwind Sailing—Poling Out The Jib
Setting and Striking a Spinnaker Made Easy and Safe
Ten Tips To Fix Weather Helm
Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 1
Running Rigging Recommendations—Part 2
Two Dangerous Rigging Mistakes
Rig Tuning, Part 1—Preparation
Rig Tuning, Part 2—Understanding Rake and Bend
Rig Tuning, Part 3—6 Steps to a Great Tune
Rig Tuning, Part 4—Mast Blocking, Stay Tension, and Spreaders
Rig Tuning, Part 5—Sailing Tune
12 Great Rigging Hacks
9 Tips To Make Unstepping a Sailboat Mast Easier
Cruising Sailboat Spar Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Standing Rigging Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Running Rigging Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Rig Wiring and Lighting Inspection
Cruising Sailboat Roller Furler and Track Inspection
Download Cruising Sailboat Rig Checklist

Hi John I could not agree with you more about how frequently boats with conventional mains are poorly set up for easy reefing and eventual dousing. It is another area where the maritime media/boatbuilders etc. have dropped the ball at educating owners how best to have their boat set up. Too many sailors (and their crew) get put off by a poor and difficult reefing set-up which likely means they have put off reefing and been over-canvased needlessly: always a lousy thing. Enough of that and they are buying a cabin in New Hampshire. I urge those looking at in-mast or in-boom furling to consider that reefing and dousing the main can be easy and fairly fast and with a minimum of effort on a boat that is well set up for it. I then enumerate the myriad down-sides of particularly, in-mast reefing/furling and the benefits of a conventionally rigged main. I am in no way a speed demon, but I like to sail and I like to sail well. You mention sublime pleasure in cranking out miles: my sublime pleasure often comes at watching superbly shaped sails at work; especially when in challenging weather, the third reef is in and working and that small sail is perfectly shaped to do its job and as bulletproof in functioning as can be devised. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

I agree completely, particularly on the pleasure of looking at really good mainsail shape when reefed.

Hi John, I totally get your “simplicity” approach and at mast mainsail handling preference. It just wouldn’t work for us and I suspect for many other cruising couples. I think I can see at least one hatch in the Outbound 46 hard-dodger top, which means adjusting the halyard / reefing lines and setting the mainsail / twist, should be simple enough from the cockpit, if (big “IF” I know) the reefing lines are well set-up. And I personally like this set-up for short-handing. Our safety process requires a second crew to be in support, if someone leaves the cockpit (day or night, coastal or offshore). I would guess we could reef / shakeout a reef on the Outbound 46, without calling the off-watch crew – a real-plus in our book as we mostly sail two-up. Our first mate would not cruise with me if I left the cockpit every time we needed to take a reef in rough conditions. It’s that simple. And if something happened to me, there is no way she would go forward to the mast and handle the sail on her own. Whereas she can, and does, reef single handedly on our boat, and I would guess she could on the Outbound 46 set-up, which is almost identical to our boat – the difference is we have in-boom furling which simplifies operations further. Likewise, the outbound 46 set-up would be easy and safe to hoist / lower / reef the mainsail when single-handing. I see so many single-handing yachts sailing just with their headsails, I suspect because on-mast mainsail handling leaves no one in the cockpit, if something happens. I often single hand our yacht with no loss of efficiency and really enjoy it. Br. Rob

I just can’t see that twisting ones head to look up out of a small hatch to see the mainsail while simultaneously grinding a winch and operating clutches is ever going to provide the visibility and situation awareness of looking directly at the part of the sail you are tensioning while standing at the mast while right next to the luff where any hang ups can be quickly seen and dealt with. So yes, for sail trim the hatches may help a bit, but not for reefing. Also at night on the Outbound a headlamp will reflect off the hatch glass making visibility of the main effectively zero.

I agree that being able to reef and shake out without calling the off watch is vital, but we do that fine at the mast too. Phyllis and I are also not fans of the idea of calling the off watch every time someone leaves the cockpit since we feel that the disruption of rest outweighs and added benefit of so doing.

I guess that relates to our basic thinking that the deck, particularly as far as the mast is not an intrinsically hazardous place to be avoided, but simply part of the working area of the boat, just as the cockpit is. We feel that regularly visiting the mast in all weathers is vital since it will be required anyway for functions like setting a proper preventer, setting the pole, and moving the runners forward, not to speak of clearing any kind of SNAFU.

We also differ in that we evaluated in boom furling/reefing and rejected it as too fragile, difficult to fix at sea, and expensive for our needs. That was based on experience in that the boat I did was on for six weeks as guide on a trip to Greenland had one.

So, in summary, I guess we just see things in a fundamentally different way.

Like you I mostly sail singlehanded or effectively singlehanded and I don’t really regard going forward in a rising wind as a pleasurable experience, especially in the dark. I’d like to add granny bars at the mast but worry that they would be extra deck clutter and spoil “the look”. But I’ve got to say I’m with John on this one. There’s quite enough string in the cockpit already without adding seven more bits. And, while in boom furling does look attractive, for me its too reminiscent of the appalling old rotating boom mainsail furling system I had on my first yacht, a Folkboat. The sail shape one got on that in any but perfect conditions was sad to see.

The sailor who puts in an early reef is a happy sailor. And probably longer living. How often is one surprised at the improved performance that results from under-pressing the rig ? And, while there is a lot that can lengthen the time at the mast putting in a reef, shaking an unnecessary one out really is a matter of seconds.

In defence of modern in boom furling, the set is way better than it was in the bad old days of roller reefing mainsails. That said, my big problem with them is complexity and fragility. Probably fine for inshore sailing where if they break you can just take the main down and head for somewhere to wait for parts and with smooth water where you can fix it, but I would never take one offshore, and particularly not to the high latitudes. All this based on taking a yacht to Greenland with one.

I own a Outbound 46 hull#50. Would add the following. The hydraulic backstay is quite helpful reefing the Genoa. Put tension on that stay and she rolls up more easily. Unless you tune the rig with more tension on the solent stay then the Genoa stay when the backstay is untensioned you get headstay sag on the solent. You lose nothing upwind using the solent instead of the Genoa going upwind so the need to roll up the Genoa before tacking is a non issue as it ends up being a reaching or running sail. We stand single watches. I love having both the primaries (powered) and the headsail reefing lines an arms length away from the wheel. I can reef under control, by myself with no engine nor AP. Then go forward and deal with reefing the main. I can do it under Hydrovane. Not needing to bring anybody up from below is wonderful. I hate single line reefing on any boat. It better than in boom or in mast but not by much. If done get a Dutchman as well. That makes it easier to inch the main down and have both ends of the sail tension correctly as you can see what’s going on and the sail has no choice but to fold correctly. Outbound come single for first two and double for the third. Would think to get just two very deep reefs and make both double. I have the survey being done on Tuesday. Then she’s gone as we transition to a Norhavn. The Outbound is the best mom and pop blue water cruising boat there is imho.

I too am not a fan of single line reefing so I think your recommendation to go with two deef reefs each with two separate reefing lines would be a good one.

That’s how we went, but then as a comparatively heavy motorsailer, we tend to leave the full main up a little longer than some just to make the boat go. We have separate reefing lines, as well and have all halyards and related lines at the mast. We have preventers, staysail sheets, yankee jib sheets and occasionally, spinnaker sheets back to the winches (three pairs) in the aft cockpit position, where there is also end-boom mainsheeting (6:1) and a strong Garhauer traveller (3:1). Works for us to date. I have over the years become a touch suspicious about “convenience” unless the sea first makes its case.

I agree was many of your points and know by your article I am not going to convince you, but we love being able to put in and take out reefs in from the cockpit. We can easily put a reef in or shake a reef out in less than a minute on our 37 foot cruising boat. I have read Colin’s article and I think a single line for each reef is way too much friction. We use a second line to pull the tack into the right position at the goose neck. These lines on our boat are only 5/16. Each one is led from the reefing hook, through the reef tack crinkle to a carefully placed bullseye on the mast, through a pulley at the mast base and then back to a harken cam cleat next to my jammers. You never need to put this on a winch – the idea is to get the bullseye position such that you end up with the reef crinkle pulled into the goose neck at just the right position when the halyard is re-tensioned. The clew end is conventional – from a bowline positioned about 6 inches aft of where you could stretch out the foot of the sail at the reef point up through the reef clew cringle to pulleys at each end of the boom through a good block at the base of the mast and then to a jammer and winch at the cockpit. When putting in a reef we pull down on the tack line while easing the halyard. Don’t allow slack in the halyard – the jammer is cast off but the halyard is restrained by hand with a single turn around the winch. 2 or 3 times we will pause in this operation by locking the halyard jammer and pulling the slack out of all the other tack and clew reefing lines by hand. We have found that this is the secret to being able to complete the whole operation from the cockpit since minimizing slack loops prevents them getting caught up anywhere. We continue until the halyard is just past a mark on the halyard line and then put the tack line in the cam cleat. At night we shine a flashlight on the tack to make sure it is neatly pulled into the gooseneck and then tension the halyard on the winch. Once again take the time to take all the slack out of the other reef lines by hand. Put the clew reefing line on a winch and crank until you are happy with the foot and leach tension – you need to check this with a flashlight at night.

Our reefs can be put in in way less time than it takes to write about it quickly and safely from the cockpit without even having to put your jacket on. Because we can put in or shake out reefs in the main easily we do not procrastinate for a moment about reducing or increasing mainsail. Our record is 11 changes in a single 3 hour shift as a series or 20 minute squalls rolled through at night close to the equator on a passage from San Francisco to the Marquesas and the lone watchkeeper was busier than a one armed paper hanger reacting as the wind went up and down from 8 to 30 knots!

Sounds like a good system. And I agree that taking the slack out of the non-loaded reefing lines as you reef is important. We do the same at the mast.

Really glad to see you giving the Outbound a thorough look, John!

Having cruised full-time aboard an Outbound 46 from 2017–2019 (we no longer own the boat), I can report that the main halyard and reefing setup works exceptionally well. The only annoyance was, as you pointed out, somewhat poor ergonomics crouching under the dodger (I’m 6’3″). The dodger hatches are perfectly positioned (like everything else on the Outbound) so you can actually see the main while hoisting, reefing, and trimming.

I saw your response to Rob about working at the mast. I agree that the side decks and mast are “part of the working area of the boat”. On balance, considering all the factors, reefing from the cockpit gave us (my wife and me) more flexibility and more peace-of-mind than reefing at the mast, which we did on our previous boat (a Sabre 38).

Aside: I also appreciated how cockpit reefing lowered the behavioral “friction” of making the decision to reef. Leaving the cockpit (with all associated precautions) just feels… harder than staying in the cockpit. Reducing sail at the right time is one of the most critical components of safe and comfortable cruising, and I was glad I never had to “think twice” because I didn’t want to deal with leaving the cockpit. Perhaps that’s irrational, but so are we all 🙂 I think of it as behavioral systems engineering.

Interesting point on “behavioural” friction. It’s not a problem we have ever suffered from, probably because I actually like “ deck sports ” and as a ex-racer and sailmaker I can’t stand being under or over canvased, but I can certainly see that it could be an issue, particularly for people who have been subjected to poor deck layouts and therefore regard reefing as a huge chore, no matter how they do it.

That said, I think that this “behavioural friction” is something we should all work on overcoming and not give into or modify our boats to pander to it. In my experience, not getting out on deck regularly can lead to all kinds of problems, particularly being lazy about rigging proper preventers and generally checking things over from bow to stern at least twice a day, more often in heavy weather.

Don’t get me wrong, if you find in cockpit reefing works for you, that’s fine, it’s your boat, but if that leads to rarely leaving the cockpit for other vital functions, then I think it’s a mistake.

Perfect timing John.

After six weeks of hard work my right now my deck is a perfectly clear expanse of white. Almost literally a clean sheet of paper. (So far 60 litres of Jotun epoxies with another 16L of Hardtop AX to go.)

Up until this point I my general for the deck layout was heavily influenced by the majority opinion I kept encountering locally which was to run all the mainsail controls back to the cockpit. But because there is a major step in our coachroof which forces two 30 deg turns in all the lines, I was always a little apprehensive on friction. So after reading this article (and a similar one from Peter Smith) I’m inclined to follow your advice.

All my halyards can readily stay at the mast, but moving all the other mainsail lines, the reefs, topping lift, outhaul, cunningham and vang back to the mast creates quite a traffic jam around the base of the mast. Any hints on how best to organise particular brew of spaghetti?

The key to keeping that spaghetti organized is to keep all the reefing and outhaul lines on the boom, rather than lead them down to the deck. We have an article on that with photos here: https://www.morganscloud.com/2010/11/19/reefing-a-sailboat/

Note that since I wrote that, we changed from jammers to clutches.

The vang control is the exception to my rule, and should be lead aft to the cockpit. Or, on boats over about 30,000 lbs a hydraulic vang with control in the cockpit is a good solution.

Hi John and all, I was not going to wade in on this, but wish to underline a couple of points and make a suggestion. In my estimation, getting rid of friction is a safety issue and not merely convenience, in part because friction (among other things) causes skippers to hesitate doing the right thing. This is the case for a racing boat with strong crew, but far more the case for a cruising couple. Also, friction might mean that a job does not get done well: say a sloppy reef that hurts the sail and degrades sail shape and sailing efficiency. Finally, to often I suspect the push for electric winches etc. is a result of poor design and unnecessary friction in the system. An example is the retrofit of an electric main halyard winch before one installs slippery mainsail track (as well as adding low friction blocks that may be in the system). Getting rid of friction has a good start with slippery mainsail track and low friction blocks and wise design. Few boats are offshore ready as built/designed which is a shame as it is a subsequent expense in $$ and time that is not necessary. And we all like to think our boat is good-to-go from the get-go so it is hard to immediately replace new items. It would not be hard for manufacturers to get it right from the get-go at little additional expense. Slippery track allows one to raise the main almost the whole way from the mast if design allows for full body stretch to get your whole weight into play. This changes a few minutes winching “ordeal” into a few seconds exertion followed by a few turns by winch handle to tension: easily done whether at the mast or under the dodger. This is convenient and fast, but not necessarily a safety issue. The safety aspect comes when reefing is done easily and without hang-up, when reefing/dousing is accomplished going downwind in a breeze, and when dropping the main and it comes down like an express train. My boat came with in-cockpit reefing (1st 2 reefs with the third reef downhaul done at the mast) and we have made it work and like it: in part because either of us can quickly and efficiently do the first 2 reefs alone from the cockpit whereas going on deck at night in boisterous conditions, we wake the off-watch. (We do “deck tour” inspections at change of watch when both of us are awake and kitted up.) Reefing from the cockpit, for us, takes a good deal of prior preparation at the onset of the season: mainly ensuring that line markers are in the correct place on all reef lines and halyard for each reef. This gets us very close to a good reef, but sometimes takes a bit of fine-tuning as things settle down and stretch out as the sail fills. This is easily seen from the cockpit and is accomplished by tweaking the reef/halyard lines from the cockpit. As to the spaghetti that is so often mentioned as the major downside of in-cockpit reefing, our solution is to snake all “tails” down the companionway. This is only done when reefed down and accumulating lines. On Alchemy, this could be (when deeply reefed and using all lines for adjustment) up to nine lines: 2 reef downhauls, 3 reef outhauls, 1 halyard, 1 main sheet, and 2 traveler lines. (Sounds terrible, doesn’t it!) These tails then reside comfortably on our engine box ½ way down to the floor or, at times, on the floor next to the bottom step. Lines, stored in this manner, are always good to go without tangles or the need to uncoil and ensure they run free. The lines, being lead next to and held to the sides of the ladder, never interfere with safe access to the steps. There are times, of course, where we wish to close up and when that occurs, we can do so with the washboards in and the hatch mostly closed. Those fortunately rare times where we wish to be fully closed up, securing the tails in the cockpit so they are not in the way, but ready to be worked takes a bit of work, but is no big deal. I suspect not all companionway designs lend themselves to this solution, but it has worked a peach for us for decades, and may help with the “spaghetti” mess for some boats where cockpit reefing is chosen. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy Ps. It has not been mentioned, I believe, but I would guess that the size of one’s boat may play a part in the choice/comfort level of going on deck in boisterous conditions. Bigger boats are just a lot more stable and predictable in their motion, smaller boats livelier and quicker to react to a wave slap or wind burp.

I totally agree on adding a slippery mainsail luff track. Adding ours a few years after we bought the boat is definitely the change we have made with the largest benefit.

Great. I’ll implement that. I hadn’t thought of double ending the reefing lines so that you can work from both sides.

I’ve also had a good yarn with a local with a very similar boat and 30 years of continuous live on the boat experience. He made an interesting observation on the lines led aft vs at the mast debate; his decision point is ‘if you an offshore sailor then reef at the mast’. His reasoning is that the longer passage the more likely something will go wrong, the more important it is you are well accustomed to leaving the cockpit in adverse conditions. And that applies to the whole crew. At the same time he acknowledges there is no absolute answer, that like everything else the decision is a compromise, and others will lead the lines aft for reasons that work for them.

He backs this up with good lifelines and a solid mast pulpit. Both of which I’m going to implement as well as per your articles in the past.

Thats an interesting way to look at the decision. But the more I think about it the more I worry that the trend to aft lines combined with cockpit enclosures is producing a generation of sailors who regard the deck as a scary place to be avoided, which I think is a very worrying trend. I have an article brewing on that.

That said, I’m sure there are sailors who are comfortable on deck and have the lines lead aft, which is all good.

Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous than doing so.

Hi John, You write: “Point being that I’m pretty sure that not going out on deck regularly is actually more dangerous…” Good point. Take, for example, the learning curve for working the boat with harnesses attached so as to not get tangled or so frustrated as to unclip. If this is not done with regularity, such as during regular deck tours, then it will be more difficult when it comes to needing to work the boat in boisterous conditions. Or using the deck tour time to find handholds when heeled over 15-20 degrees so that your hand knows instinctively where they are at night with spray in your face. My best, Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

The cockpit enclosures bother me. Particularly in our tight, high-traffic waters, I think they take away too much visibility and too much situational awareness. Three times out of four, if I have to take evasive action despite being the stand-on vessel, I’ll notice a full cockpit enclosure on the boat (power or sail) that didn’t see me.

We actually took our soft dodger down entirely last week and are finding that, in our local conditions (where waves do *not* break over the deck), the extra visibility is way more valuable than the shelter.

All lines led aft often makes for a real mess of spaghetti (read: tripping hazard) around the companionway. Trip-and-fall is, IMHO, likely a bigger risk than slipping overboard from the deck. I’m surprised by how many designers & builders think that a line just ends at the winch, and forget about the 50 feet hanging off beyond that. (It’s an issue at the mast, too; a lot of boats seem to have no good place to put coils of excess halyard, reefing line, etc. once the lines are tensioned.) I also see a lot of boats with no good places to clip a harness tether or rig a jackline, and am starting to think that this particular issue needs to be addressed at the “textbooks and engineering design standards” level.

I agree on the dangers of cockpit enclosures. The boat that nearly hit me last summer was being run from a totally buttoned up cockpit enclosure: https://www.morganscloud.com/2019/08/24/dont-alter-course-to-port/

That said, I think that cockpit enclosures can be used safely, like most things, as long as we keep them open when we should so we can see and hear.

Bottom line, buttoned up cockpit enclosures are just another manifestation of the fundamental problem: putting comfort ahead of safety.

I wonder if it’s partly related to the boat’s seakindliness. A large, long-for-its-displacement yacht like MC has a much gentler action at sea than a lightweight, beamy, modern, race-inspired, accomodation-maximised-for-LOA “cruiser.” Leaving the cockpit in a small light boat is a lot scarier than doing it on a large heavy one.

You might be right, but the Outbound 46 would not fall into that class.

Also, my thinking would be don’t own a boat, at least for offshore sailing, that scares you so much that you don’t want to leave the cockpit.

Regarding backstay tensioners – I am pondering my head how to handle twin (not split) backstays. For split backstays you might use a tensioner car as you had linked to, but this will not be possible for twins. I notice that MC has twin backstays, how did you set it up to allow symmetric tensioning/slacking them?

The best solution is two hydraulic rams plumbed to the same pump. Set up this way, they automatically equalize tension between the two stays.

John, thank you for teaching us North Americans a new phrase today “poor diddums”,I like that.

As a retired rigger, if is even possible to be one, I could not agree with you more on not leading everything back to the cockpit. Very expensive and all that hardware sends friction through the roof. Just leave it on the mast where it belongs. My customers would say, but it’s not safe to go out of the cockpit at night or when the wind starts kicking up. If it’s not safe to leave the cockpit, you need to make it safe to leave the cockpit. You need a good Jack line system such as the one you described. You need a good hand holds so no matter where you are on deck there is something to hold onto. Solid hand rails rather than stanchions and wire. Best if you don’t have to bend over to find them. Handrails that when you stick your hand out that’s where they are. At the very minimum some kind of a deck edge so you don’t go sliding off the deck, bulwarks are even better. Mast bars that allow you to wrap a leg around to free up both hands are a great addition.

When it comes to hoisting the mainsail, or reefing it. A low friction system is the only way to go.. Finally broke down put a Harken bat car system on including bearings on the intermediate slides. Easy to raise the main, very easy to reef. Does not matter what the wind direction it is when reefing. Mark the reef points on the halyard with whippings so that you can feel them in the dark. It’s always a chore when you drop the sail a lot farther than you needed to. Only to have to winch it back up when it’s full of wind.

The photo of the mast base turning blocks illustrates one of my little pet peeves. The shackles are not safety wired. After having the main sheet blocks, come adrift from the traveler one day, thankfully in light air. I safety wire every shackle not taken on and off on a regular basis. Including roller furling headsail shackles.

I could not agree more!

And I agree on shackles too. That said, for roller furlers and the like I have had good luck with the self locking shackles that have little flats on the non-threaded side of the pin hole that stop the pin backing out.

Hi David and John, And I have had good luck with a little dab of silicone on the threads. I don’t like sharp wire ends about near sails or where line can be dragged over them like at the base of the mast. It is arguable that my skill at tucking them out of trouble could use improvement. Dick Stevenson, s/v Alchemy

Hello John! I have enjoyed reading your many articles over the past few years. This deck layout one is an excellent discussion and observations. I went through the same process several years ago before purchasing a new boat. I settled on an X-Yacht Xc38 with a John Mast. It has an outstanding deck layout whereby we sail short handed all the time and I have sailed in several long distance single handed races with some horrible weather. I have added inboard jacklines which increases safety when going to the mast (very infrequently) or the foredeck when hoisting the asymmetrical spinnaker or Code 0. I installed a rope clutch on the mast for single handed hoisting of the spinnaker and Code 0 sails. We did put an electric winch for the mainsail halyard! It is a well made offshore cruiser/racer.

Hi Stanley,

I have long been a fan of X-Yacht. Looks like a really fun boat.

I do like lines and halyards at the mast for many reasons explained here. My vintage Tartan 40 has everything except jib halyard led to cockpit. A tides marine track allows me to hoist main to nearly masthead from cockpit. And better yet, a clam cleat installed on mast a few feet below the main halyard exit allows me to even more easily hoist main from the mast, place halyard in clam cleat, and then pull in slack and tension from cockpit. Clam cleat releases and stays well clear once line is led through sheaves. For my use this is enough of a “best of both worlds“ compromise that I won’t go through trouble of moving winches and lines. And I do like being able to drop main from behind dodger in a squall into the cradle cover. I recommend everyone with aft led main halyard at minimum install the clam cleat as it greatly improves ease of raising main particularly with lazy jacks.

Hi Michael,

That sounds like a good idea.

The debate of cockpit versus mast based reefing is an interesting one. In the compromises of boats, our boat came with everything done from the cockpit and it would be very difficult to retrofit to mast based reefing so I have never really considered it. This works okay for us as the loads are relatively light due to being a smaller boat and we do not have a big enclosure so vision is not overly impaired (the boat came with a full cockpit enclosure that didn’t even feel safe for motoring so it has never been used). Like Dick mentions above, we send reef line tails down the companionway in most conditions and it works well. To me, the best part about this setup is that it is safe and easy to reef with a single person on deck when there are lobster pots around preventing long absences from the autopilot controls. I suppose that you could get an autopilot remote and bring it to the mast but in the cockpit, it is easy to hit a course change on the autopilot in the middle of reefing. One other thing that I like is that I can get the jib down (hank-on) into a position where it is secure enough for a little bit while steering simply using a downhaul that is led aft, this is super helpful coming into harbors.

If we had our boat setup as a primarily offshore boat, I suspect that I would prefer to do everything at the mast and of boats that I have sailed on, generally the ones done at the mast are better. The issue with pot buoys would go away and the clutter in the cockpit would be a bigger deal. Similarly, the position of the primaries may well be dictated by what the boat is being used for. Offshore, most people don’t hand steer and there tend to be very few people on the boat making forward in the cockpit a good option. Coastal, many more people will be hand steering and there are often people sitting in the way of winches that are further forward. Our boat actually has the winches further forward and when sailing solo, I would strongly prefer having them aft. It is especially the case when short tacking somewhere when I end up steering with 1 foot so that I can reach both the wheel and the winch, otherwise I would need to use the autopilot which is not my preference (I know that I am weird on this one, even offshore I hand-steer whenever we are sailing and there aren’t other things requiring attention, I suspect this comes from growing up on boats without windvanes or autopilots).

One thing I didn’t see discussed with lines led aft is what it does to winch ergonomics. I find that I have no problem hand hauling up the main most of the way on up to mid 40’ers with lines led aft assuming that you can stand back behind the dodger and not be hunched over. The problem comes once the winch gets involved. The ergonomics under a dodger tend to be terrible and in many cases where the dodger was not part of the original design, you can’t even get a full rotation on the winch handle. If you were able to raise the sail most of the way by hand, then this isn’t a huge deal. After one of the discussions on this site in the last year, we procured a ratcheting winch handle and it makes this much better, thanks for pointing those out. Where it gets really bad is sending someone up the mast. I have sailed on boats where cranking a 125lb person to the top of the mast completely wears out a big grinder type due to the poor ergonomics. On our own boat, if my wife is going up, I use the halyard winch as a turn of direction and crank her up with a primary. If I am going up, jumaring is the name of the game provided that we are in a calm enough spot. With halyards at the mast, I find all of this a ton easier.

And I agree with all of the other parts of the article too.

A good analysis, as usual. By the way, I did mention the problem of winch ergonomics in the post, although not as clearly as you did:

Worse still, on the Outbound we will be forced to bend down by the hard dodger—this is an ergonomic nightmare. The result of all this inefficiency is that the main must be ground most of the way up on a winch, which makes an electric halyard winch near-mandatory.

As to winch position, as you say it depends on how often you steer. That said the Outbound does not make sense to me since when steering the mainsheet is way too far to reach (under the dodger), and when not steering the jib winches are a ways from both the mainsheet and the dodger. To me an idea short handed set up is so that one can reach both main and jib sheet winches from whatever our preferred position is. Been thinking about this a lot for our next boat which we will be sailed inshore a lot, steering more, and quite often single handed.

Hi John, Sorry, I had missed that your statement included winch ergonomics the first time around.

If you are short tacking up a channel, then having the main winch less accessible is fine but for other changes, you are right that having the mainsheet nearby is helpful. What we do which isn’t perfect is to play the traveler which I can control from behind the helm thanks to long tails but this requires a long traveler with low loads and even then, once you get to broad reaching, you need to use the sheet and you need to use the sheet if you want to change twist. The other thing to keep in mind that I can think of is what you are doing during a chicken gybe where having a single person handling all sheets can sometimes be problematic. On smaller boats, I often find myself standing at the wheel, mainsheet in hand with 1-2 turns on the winch. Once you practice a bit, you can get really reliable at flicking a turn off from 10′ away provided there isn’t too much load on the line, putting another on is also doable but I find it sometimes takes multiple tries.

I could not agree more about having two sets of tracks for headsails. We have inboard and reaching tracks for our working jib, staysail and storm jib. The one thing that has always had me see the dollar’s flying off the sails was when changing from one track to the other or when adjusting our pin cars.

While building our steel boat, I really wanted to use the adjustable cars, but they were too expensive at the time. All of this while working full time and raising a family. Then there was the epiphany one day a month ago. I took a piece of 6mm spectra cored double braid 2 m long. Stripped off 60 cm of cover off. Spliced in a 6 cm eye in. Whip the other end and that’s all you need. To use, pass the eye around something good and strong that is within a short distance from the loaded car. Examples, stantions welded to the deck, perforated toe rails, other sheeting cars even if the are in use. Pass the end through the eye. Take the other end to the loaded sheet forward of the car and tie it to the sheet using a rolling hitch. Snug it up, ease the sheet to get the load off the car. Adjust the car, move from one track to another, whatever you need to do. Sheet her home. You might have a bit of leech flutter, but absolutely no flogging! It’s only been a few weeks since I put this together. And have found many uses well beyond my original application. To store it while keeping it handy. I fold it in half twice then luggage tag it to a cabin top handrail. Just makes you wonder sometimes why did it take me 18 years to figure something so simple and cost effective to make and use.

Good way to save the sails. As you say, flogging is terrible for them.

We used to do something very like it back in the day when changing headsails while racing. Called it a “changing sheet”.

It seems to me that it is much more important how the lines are lead and how friction is minimized than whether the lines are lead aft. That means good hardware – blocks and sailtracks, and having only one 90 degree-bend at the mast-foot. A 30 or 45 degree redirection well executed doesn’t add that much friction. That also means avoiding single-line reefing and having a winch setup that is ergonomically sound.

TP 60ies that go around the world non-stop have everything led aft and it clearly works single-handed in very rough conditions. So do Class 40ies, though these “only” do 20 to 30 days non-stop. So do the (Volvo) Ocean race boats and the line-handling works like a charm (taking advantage of multi-person grinders, though).

Even so, I would go forward twice a day and check everything thoroughly, but I would do so during the day when I chose the time, not when I have to – possibly in the worst of times.

Hi John, Great article as always.

Curious about your take on the mainsheet routing on certain Amel Ketches where the traveler is forward of the dodger and the sheet is run aft over the dodger and enclosure to the mizen mast. (links/image below)

Also, are the effects of a traveler greatly affected when raised? Say, if the Boreal in your example had a flat dodger with traveler or like the arch mounted traveler seen on certain Hunters.

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BhQCF6mH238/W_8EN5MTOPI/AAAAAAABZqw/KSNjlEqzaQUVeBfzAbHCsLkTBMn65-lIwCLcBGAs/s1600/2017.10%2BGrenade%2BMartinique%2B%25289%2529.JPG

https://itboat.com/uploads/ae64/f5e25fdb8353.jpg

Screen Shot 2022-08-24 at 11.41.59 AM.jpg

It seems a pity to have a nice safe traveler position like that and then lead the mainsheet in such a way as it can garrotte a crew member. If it were me designing the system I would go with a “German Mainsheet system” with the track where it is and the mainsheet double ended and lead back from blocks below the gooseneck to winches either side of the cockpit.

And yes, raising the mainsheet traveler closer to the boom enables windward sheeting with a shorter track.

Hey John, New to AAC, loving it so far, trying to soak up as much as I can. I am looking to re-rig my 1980 Ingrid 38 ketch, following the simple is best approach you teach here. We are preparing to sail her from San Diego to Japan (where we live) across the south pacific. Do you know any good riggers in the Southern California area? Boat is in San Diego.

Early this year I did a major refit of my Islander 36 with the excellent support of the Ventura Harbor Boatyard. Work completed included a rebuilt mast step, new cap/intermediate shroud chain plates, and new standing rigging. The boatyard recommended a local rigger, Kim Weir, and I was extremely pleased with his work. Without hesitation, I recommend the services of VHBY and Kim Weir.

Thanks for coming up on that.

Sorry, I have never sailed on the west coast, so don’t have any experience with riggers there. That said, Brian Toss’s old shop is still in business run by guys Brian taught, so that might be an option, although a ways from you: http://briontoss.com

Also see Steve’s comment.

No one has mentioned self-tacking jibs. Having owned two boats with them the thought of going back to winching every time you tack -particularly when singlehanded- fills me with horror. Huge genoas are, in any case, only a relic from ancient rating rules. Whether a jib boom ( particularly the internal boom as used on Freedom sloops) or jib traveller is used, short tacking becomes an effortless exercise. A small jib on a traveller can be trimmed more easily and efficiently than a Genoa. The mainsail is always the prime driver; the performance gain from oversized headsails is less than you think, and in these days of easily deployed offwind headsails is not a consideration off the wind.

I agree with most all you say, except I have never been a fan of jib booms, probably something to do with being naturally clumsy so I don’t need anything else to trip over on the foredeck!

Anyway, just loving sailing our J/109 with her big mainsail and blade jib.

On an otherwise good boat would you recommend moving the lines from the cockpit to the mast if you were going to have an e-wincher anyway, which would presumably overcome the extra friction while still giving the operator enough feel to know if something was going wrong?

Way too many variables to answer that: boat, usage, crew, how well the boat is set up with lines aft, and on it goes. That said, my 109 is lines aft and the wincher makes all the difference to practicality so I have no plans to change. That reminds me, I should do a tip on why.

Yachting World

Digital Edition

First look: Olympic 32 designed for double-handed racing

Rupert Holmes
January 7, 2022

It may well be on hold for the time being but the Olympic 32 is an innovative eco-friendly concept for doublehanded racing

This short-handed one-design offshore race boat is a Finot-Conq design commissioned by the Ultimate Boat Company and aimed at the two-handed offshore class that was originally scheduled for the 2024 Olympics .

The radical scow bow hull is optimised for reaching and running, without regard to rating rules. Yet boats of this style are also now proven to be quick upwind and the polars show upwind VMG equivalent to that of a more conventional raceboat of similar size.

A huge amount of form stability enables the boat to stand up to a powerful sail plan and aft sections are shaped to promote early planing.

Light displacement of only 2,200kg puts this boat at the very high end of the performance spectrum – the Sun Fast 3300 is 3,500kg and even the Figaro 3 is 3,175kg. These factors make the Olympic 32 a boat with a performance profile that to date has only been available to Mini 6.50 and Class 40 sailors.

DANU recyclable composite is specified for the hull, deck, structural bulkheads and keel fin. As a result, it already exceeds World Sailing’s sustainable agenda that requires 90% of the weight of a boat to be recyclable by 2030.

Plans for the boat are on hold, although there’s also a proposal for a 33ft catamaran daysailer. In the meantime, the company is already producing RIBs and offshore workboats using DANU.

Olympic 32 specifications:

LOA: 9.45m 31ft 0in Beam: 3.5m 11ft 6in Draught: 2.5m Displacement: 2,200kg 4,850lb Upwind sail area: 68.6m2 738ft2 Price: TBD Builder: ultimate-boats.com

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Race: Inside Riva's First 50 Metre Superyacht

This 50-metre Riva takes the storied brand into a whole new size bracket. Carlo Riva would have been proud, says Risa Merl

When the Riva 50 Metri made her public debut at the Monaco Yacht Show in 2019, the name emblazoned on her transom – Race – gave a hint as to who her owner was. And in case there was any doubt, the treasure trove of Ferrari memorabilia on board and a very unusual automotive-inspired bridge made it crystal clear.

As a board member, chairman of product development and 13.2 per cent stakeholder in the Ferretti Group , parent company of Riva, Piero Ferrari’s choice of builder is unsurprising. But this famous engineer’s passion for the brand is genuinely infectious. “Riva details are distinct from any other yacht,” he enthuses.

At 49.9 metres, Race is the largest-ever Riva yacht, proudly previewed in June 2019 at Venice’s Arsenal, during an exclusive client event. She’s also the first to emerge from the Riva Superyachts Division , which was established in 2014 at the Ferretti Group Superyacht Yard in Ancona, where its CRN, Custom Line and Pershing superyachts are built. The name Riva most vividly evokes the sexy runabouts that made the brand famous in the 1960s and 70s. But Carlo Riva always envisioned a place for larger Riva boats, as seen in his collaboration with De Vries ( Feadship ) and later CRN on the 24-metre Riva Caravelle series, and his personal yacht, 30.5-metre Vespucci , which was delivered in 1978 and relaunched in 2018 after a thorough refit.

Two exterior styles, each drawing inspiration from classic Rivas, are offered on the same technical platforms in the Riva Superyachts series, in 50-, 60-, 70- and 95-metre sizes. This first design is inspired by the 1964 Riva Caravelle series. The second option is sportier, with rounded lines and a more aggressive profile, taken from the Riva coupé yachts and seen on the current Riva 76 Perseo and 88 Domino Super.

The Riva 50 Metri’s exterior and interior were created by Officina Italiana Design in concert with Riva’s in-house team. “Race takes inspiration from the Caravelle, which was a true masterpiece conceived by Carlo Riva,” says Sergio Beretta, CEO of Officina Italiana Design, which he founded with chief designer Mauro Micheli. “The challenge was to innovate without forgetting the DNA of the Riva brand.”

In essence, Race is a highly modernised take on the classic Caravelle. Both yachts feature parallelogram windows, as well as forward-sloping lines that give the impression of movement. During the Monaco show, Race had an enviable position at the very end of Jetée Lucciana, so you could admire her silver hull and clean and simple lines. “ Race has a great personality,” says Micheli. “She has three straight lines that define each level. The design is clean, and we stayed away from overworked, elaborate or redundant lines and shapes, both in the exterior and the interior.”

The exterior paint job is cool grey with a muted 20 per cent gloss finish, so as to avoid reflections seeping inside from her large windows. “The owner wanted lots of light and panoramic views,” says Beretta. “As with any other Riva yacht, we have paid great attention to the use of glass that gives light to the interior and puts the owner in contact with the surrounding nature.” Emphasis has also been given to external living spaces. According to Micheli, Ferrari wanted to have cosy spaces outside – like the forward deck lounge – where he could enjoy the yacht while under way.

Ferrari was hands-on in every aspect of the build. “We worked with the owner from the start,” says Stefano de Vivo, the Ferretti Group’s Chief Commercial Officer. “We decided each detail with him, and he was involved in the project from the first day of thinking about the layout until the decision of the position of the plates at the end. This yacht is very much a part of him.” Ferrari’s previous boat was a Custom Line Navetta 37 motor yacht, and he also has a Riva 76 Bahamas.

One of the first things that de Vivo points out is the use of lightweight materials derived from the aviation industry: a sandwiched panel made of fibreglass and Nomex – the latter is also used in Formula One cars. A veneer goes over the top to give the look of wood, but it’s much lighter.

This veneer is found on all exterior panels, ceilings and the built-in exterior furniture. “By decreasing the weight, you have much better results in terms of fuel consumption,” says de Vivo. “At 14 knots, Race burns 300 litres per hour with the engines and generators on. It’s a very good result for us.” Powered by twin 1,360hp MTU 8V 4000 M63 diesel engines, this full-displacement yacht in aluminium alloy reaches a top speed of 15 knots and has a cruising range of 3,500 nautical miles at 11 knots.

It was also vital that the first Riva 50 have the essence of an iconic Riva. This translated to an obsession with the material selection and a bevy of little details – even the stainless-steel drains on the deck are emblazoned with the Riva logo written in miniature. Custom doorknobs, similar to those seen on the Riva Dolcevita, were moulded to fit the owner’s hand perfectly.

Race has a holistic design, the same materials used inside and out to create a sense of harmony. Exterior features are brought inside, such as the teak decking of a classic Riva, which is found in the dayhead and the corridor leading to the bridge. All the materials used are familiar to the Riva family lineage – rich mahogany, gleaming stainless steel and lots of leather. A darker tone of mahogany was chosen to specifically mimic the colour used on the Aquariva models.

The interior of Race is modern, masculine and distinctively Riva. There isn’t a dizzying array of materials; instead the design team concentrated on a uniform colour palette of grey and white, accentuated by mahogany, stainless steel, white statuario marble with grey veining and an abundance of glass, like the glass-framed main stairwell. Narrow strips of mahogany on the ceilings in the saloons and cabins add dimension and hide the air-conditioning output, as the air filters out between the wooden slats. These slats are carried throughout the boat, from the main saloon to the hallways and the guest cabins.

The dining room has a soft grey carpet, and a pantry directly off this space hosts a dumb waiter serving three decks from the lower deck galley. “Following the owner’s wishes, the galley is situated on the lower deck – this is just one of the layout options of the Riva 50,” says Micheli. “This allowed us to obtain more space on the main deck and create a unique master suite.”

Moving the galley allows the entire forward main deck to be laid out to fit an owner’s needs. Ferrari opted for a media room just before the master. Videoworks designed the entertainment system, which is outfitted with James speakers. This cosy spot is a shrine to all things Ferrari, including a painting of the owner’s car and Formula 1 memorabilia signed by the winning drivers.

A glass wall separates the media room from the hallway, and an electric curtain in a silver metallic finish can close off this space for privacy. With an en suite off the media room, it can be converted to an additional guest suite, bringing the overall accommodation capacity up to 12. Though Ferrari usually has only four to six guests on board, it is good to know for a future Riva 50 Metri owner that this is possible. Below decks are four guest cabins – three doubles and one twin. The materials are the same that you would find in the owner’s area, with a prevalence of leather and grey tones. “We wanted the design to flow seamlessly everywhere,” says de Vivo.

The interior volumes were arranged to allow Race to come in just under 500GT. Some compromises had to be made, as in the upper saloon, which is a bit smaller than you’d typically find on a 50-metre yacht. Instead of being full-beam, the designers opted for walk-around decks outside.

In order to make the space feel larger, windows inside the upper saloon descend on either side and the aft doors open fully, letting a breeze come through and creating an indoor/outdoor living area. The controls for the windows are toggle switches, like those found on old Rivas such as Vespucci.

The upper aft deck dining table, which seats 10, is made of Corian, just like a table you’d find on a smaller Riva. “Corian is coming back in fashion – it’s easier to clean and you can polish it in case of scratches,” says de Vivo. The mesh chairs by Dedon are ergonomically designed and so comfortable – you might sit down at dinner and never want to get up. But the sundeck beckons you to lounge for a post-dinner drink with loftier views. It is covered by a carbon-fibre hardtop with a forward angle, matching the geometry of the exterior. The stylish lounge chairs are crafted from mahogany bases with leather straps that raise or lower the back. Even in these tiny details the Riva lineage is clear.

That goes for the bridge as well, where wood floors were chosen to match a classic Riva. “This is a technical area, but we think of it as a guest area,” says de Vivo. “So the finishes and quality of the interior are the same.” The steering wheel is a work of art, custom made and formed from a single piece of titanium. “The price of the boat includes everything but the wheel,” he jokes. But it’s the helm seat that really catches the eye. It is not your usual captain’s chair, but a genuine driver’s seat from a Ferrari California. It had to be augmented so it could work on board a yacht.

“It was a big challenge really because chairs coming from Ferrari cars work differently – you need a key for the electric mechanism of the chair to work, otherwise you can’t move or adjust it,” says de Vivo. “So we had to customise it before installing it – and it took us a lot of time!”

Wing stations are found on either side of the bridge, and there is a forward lounge area where the owner can sit and watch the yacht come into port, staying out of the way of the crew. The sunpads here, which rise via a hydraulic lift, conceal water toys. Of these, the “Ferrari-red” jet ski does not exactly match the cool silver tones of Race. “It would make more sense to have the jet ski in grey, but he didn’t want to repaint it,” says de Vivo. “So we built this to hide the jet ski.”

A seven-metre tender is held below in the garage, which has a shell door for launching. When it is launched, the space is transformed into a beach club with loose furnishings. There is enough space for the area to be used as a gym even when under way with the tender inside.

The second Riva 50 Metri is currently in build at the Ferretti Group Superyacht Yard in Ancona, with delivery slated for early 2021, before the summer season. According to Ferretti Group CEO Alberto Galassi, seeing the Riva Superyachts Division come to life was a dream of Carlo Riva.

“I’d like to try and cruise on her,” Riva said when he first saw the renderings of the 50-metre yacht that would become Race. He was taken by the boat’s simple yet elegant lines, says Micheli. Sadly, Carlo Riva passed away before Race was launched and did not get to see her completed. But his dream of the Riva brand growing, literally and figuratively, has certainly been realised.

All photography courtesy of Alberto Cocchi

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