newport sailboats review

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• Sailboat Reviews

Newport 28/28 II

While initially there were questions about quality, the 28 is a good entry-level cruiser-racer for those on a budget..

The Newport 28 was one of the longer-lived small production cruising boats, having been in production from 1974 through 1987. Almost 1,000 of the C&C-designed boats were built by Capital Yachts of Harbor City, California.

There is a strong family resemblance between the Newport 28 and other C&C designs of the same period. In addition to the Newport 28, Capital built the Newport 41, another mid-1970s C&C design. The styling of both boats is characterized by the sweeping attractive sheerlines for which C&C is justifiably known.

As with any boat whose production run spanned more than a decade, many changes were made in the Newport 28, both outside and inside, over the years. The original scimitar-shaped keel and rudder gave way to more modern high aspect ratio appendages with 1983 models, increasing draft from 4′ 6″ to 5′ 2″. A shoal draft version drawing 4′ was optional, but

less popular than the deep-keel boat. Versions with the modern keel are designated Newport 28-II.

Sailing Performance

The Newport 28 has a tall, high aspect ratio masthead rig. The newer deep keel models are about six seconds per mile faster than the original version of the boat, which typically sails with a PHRF rating of 192. This is comparable to other cruiser-racers of the same size.

Despite a fairly high ballast/displacement ratio, owners report that the boat is tender. This is due in part to the fairly round midship section, and in part to the fact that few 28′ boats are really very stiff.

Racing in Newport 28s is quite keen in some areas, particularly on the West Coast, where there are large fleets that race both as one-designs and under PHRF. The boat is a competitive PHRF racer, and enough boats have been rated so that its handicap appears fair. This means you are likely to get a rating based on the boat’s performance, not on your own sailing ability.

Most owners report that the boat is very well balanced. This is typical of C&C designs, which usually have fairly small mainsails. With a large foretriangle and a small mainsail, it may be necessary to rake the mast aft slightly to give the boat a little weather helm. It’s far easier to add weather helm than to reduce it.

Construction

Make no mistake about it, the Newport 28 is a boat built to a price. A common complaint by owners is mediocre fitting of woodwork, leaking hull-to-deck joint, cockpit drains that are too small, plastic valves on through hull fittings, inadequate backing plates for hardware—in short, the entire litany of problems associated with boats built to be low in price.

One owner who races his boat hard noticed a large crack in the hull molding aft of the primary sheet winches, and discovered that he could see daylight through it. Apparently, the hull had been cracked in removing it from the mold, and the cracked patched over with auto body filler. This was on a new boat. The factory made good on that one.

Why would so many people buy a boat that apparently has a history of minor construction flaws and mediocre quality control?

The answer, according to owners, is that the basic styling, accommodations, and performance are better than other boats of the same size and type, making up for other shortcomings. When you buy a Chevrolet you know in advance that it isn’t going to be built like a Mercedes.

The interior is one factor that many owners report is a major influence in their decision to buy a Newport 28. With a waterline length of 23′ 6″, there’s a lot of interior for a 28′ boat.

Despite the fairly low freeboard and pronounced concave sheer, there is just over 6′ of headroom on centerline over the main cabin. The pronounced camber of the main cabintop keeps the deckhouse profile low, but at the expense of headroom, which diminishes very quickly away from the centerline. Fortunately, on a boat this small you’re almost always walking near the centerline.

There have been three basic interior arrangements over the years: galley along the starboard side of the main cabin, galley aft on the port side, and galley aft on the starboard side. On later models, only the two aft galley configurations were available. The galley aft on starboard side is the only layout that offers a stove with oven, due to the setup of the main cabin settees.

Unfortunately, this galley arangement required cutting away the starboard main bulkhead beneath the chainplates to make the starboard settee long enough for sleeping, which in our opinion is a structural compromise.

Since there are four other berths in the boat—two forward, the port settee, and a quarterberth—using the starboard settee as a berth isn’t necessary with anything less than a full crew. For family cruising, it is likely that at least one member of the crew would be short enough to use the starboard settee even without the foot extension.

Originally, the boat was equipped with the Atomic Four gasoline inboard, a standard engine in most auxiliaries until the proliferation of diesel power in the early 1980s. Diesel power was optional until the introduction of the 28-II model.

Some boats have Yanmar diesels, others Universal. It took the builder a while to decide which diesel engine to use, as owners report engines ranging in horsepower from 11 to 18. To most owners, there appears to be little difference in performance between diesel engines of various sizes. All of the Universal diesels should be adequate for the boat, and the Atomic Four is far more power than she needs.

Obviously, the diesel engine is a big plus when shopping for a used boat. Retrofitting a diesel on a gas-powered boat of this size is usually more expense than can be justified unless you’re planning to keep the boat for a long time.

Access to the engine for service varies from awful to good, depending on the model year. Fortunately, newer models have better access from the interior as well as a flush hatch in the cockpit sole directly over the engine.

Buying A Used Boat

Because so many owner complaints center on fairly mediocre construction detailing, a used boat should be carefully surveyed before purchase. Particular attention should be paid to structural details of the hull-to-deck joint, attachment of bulkheads, and mounting of deck hardware.

Obviously, a later model boat with a diesel engine is more desirable than an older boat with a gas engine. We would also consider the 28-II version with updated keel and rudder to be more desirable than the earlier design.

Because of the large number of Newport 28s built, at any given time there are a number of boats on the market. This means you should be able to find the combination of ingredients you’re looking for for in age, power plant, keel, and interior layouts—especially if you’re shopping on the West Coast.

It would be a good idea to look at all three interior arrangements before making a decision, although if you opt for a newer boat your choice will be between the two aft galley interiors.

Some of the boats have been seriously upgraded by owners, including such things as larger cockpit drains and higher quality hull hardware.

We would be wary about any boat that showed a lot of inexpert do-it-yourself characterisitics, such as caulking along the hull-to-deck joint, around the ports, or around the chainplates.

Although a tiller is standard, a fair number of boats have been equipped with wheel steering, either as an original option or as a retrofit.

The steering pedestal takes up far less room than the tiller, but it does require that the helmsman sit all the way in the back of the boat. While this arrangement keeps the cockpit less crowded for racing, it also puts all the helmsman’s weight at the aft end of the boat—not a good place for it.

In addition, the helmsman on a wheel-steered boat cannot reach either the mainsheet or the jib sheets, a serious shortcoming. He furthermore has trouble hiding from rain and spray under a companionway dodger.

Life for the helmsman on a wheel-steered Newport 28 will be a lonely one. Wheel steering, being hardly necessary on a boat this size, is hardly desirable on the Newport 28.

The Newport 28 is a good entry-level cruiser-racer for someone wanting a reasonable combination of accommodations and performance, as long as you’re not too persnickety about details. It would be a reasonable compromise for someone who likes more traditional appearance in a modern boat, but doesn’t have the money to spend for a higher-quality boat of the same size and type, such as a Sabre 28.

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• By Michael Robertson
• Updated: September 28, 2010

newport 27 368

Success came quickly to Capital Yachts of Harbor City, California, when it debuted the Newport 27 in 1971. The boat, designed by George Cuthbertson and George Cassian, the founders of C&C Yachts, quickly established itself on the local racing scene. The 27 was in production for about 15 years.

For a 27-footer, the boat has an unusually commodious interior. Standing headroom is just over 6 feet, and the most common interior layout features a V-berth, a head, and a small hanging locker forward of the main bulkhead. Settees measuring 6 feet in length run along either side of the saloon. Two people can sit comfortably on each settee at the table, which can be folded up flush with the bulkhead when not in use; under way, this surface serves as a nav station.

Aft of the settees, a small counter to port contains a sink and icebox access. Opposite is another counter with a recessed two-burner alcohol stove. Variations on this layout include a starboard quarter berth, a fixed dinette with raised seating fore and aft, and an aft-placed head. Regardless of the layout, oiled teak was used liberally, its warm traditional aesthetic spoiled somewhat by the adjacent wood-patterned Formica that covers all horizontal surfaces.

Construction is typical for the era and the price point. The hull is hand laid, and the keel is lead. All through-hulls are bronze, but they’re fitted with PVC gate valves. Dry storage seems endless, but tankage is inadequate for longer than a weekend cruise; the holding tank is only 6 gallons.

Tiller steering is standard, and the underbody features a fin keel and a balanced spade rudder. Early models draw a modest 4 foot 3 inches; the Mark II models have 5-foot-2-inch draft for improved upwind performance. Displacing 6,000 pounds, either version scoots along in light air, but both are tender. As wind and boat speeds increase, so does weather helm. On my boat, a Mark II, an Autohelm 1000 tillerpilot could only manage so much weather helm, and I often reduced sail earlier than I might have otherwise done.

The traveler is forward of the companionway. Friction between the traveler and its track makes it difficult and dangerous to adjust it if the mainsheet is under any significant load. Installing a modern traveler should join replacing the PVC through-hull valves at the top of any improvements list.

Most Newport 27s came with an inboard auxiliary, either a gasoline-powered Atomic 4 or, later, an 11-horsepower Universal diesel. Access to the engine on either inboard version is excellent.

Used Newport 27s list between $10,000 and $18,000, depending on condition and the upgrades made. While not a stout offshore cruiser and no longer a competitive racer, the Newport 27 is still a capable, inexpensive daysailer that, when upgraded and outfitted accordingly, can deliver modest coastal cruising to a couple or a singlehander.

Newport 27 LOA 27′ 0″ (8.23 m.) LWL 22′ 4″ (6.81 m.) Beam 9′ 2″ (2.79 m.) Draft (early/Mark II) 4′ 3″/5′ 2″ (1.30/1.57 m.) Sail Area (100%) 360 sq. ft. (33.44 sq. m.) Ballast 2,400 lb. (1,088 kg.) Displacement 6,000 lb. (2,721 kg.) Ballast/D .40 D/L 241 SA/D 17.4 Water 14 gal. (53 l.) Fuel 19 gal. (72 l.) Engine Atomic 4 (gas) or Universal (diesel) Designer Cuthbertson & Cassian

Michael Robertson and his wife sailed their Newport 27, Del Viento, from Ventura, California, to Florida via most of Central America. That was in 1996 and 1997. They plan to go cruising again soon, with their two young daughters.

• More: 21 - 30 ft , before 2000 , Coastal Cruising , monohull , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , sailboats classic plastic
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I'm considering buying a NewPort 30

• Thread starter Hillbillybuddha
• Start date Jun 3, 2020
• Brand-Specific Forums

Hillbillybuddha

I sailed a lot when I was younger. Haven't sailed much since the 90s. But my wife and I want to spend a couple years sailing the Caribbean. We've saved up about $20k for a boat and we talked to a real estate agent yesterday about putting our house on the market. Anyway, it's a 1982 Newport. The gentleman we would buy the boat from bought it almost 4 months ago. Then covid happened, shelter in place, lost his job and needs to sell it. He showed me the bill of sale and her bought it for $6I more then he's asking because he just doesn't want to deal with it. He got a survey when he bought it and it looks good. He also got a separate engine inspection and the mechanic found a pin hole leak on the heat exchanger but said, other than that, the engine is in great shape. I'm wondering if this would be a good boat to sail down the coast of California, across Panama and around the Caribbean. I should also note that my wife and I have already signed up for the first 3 ASA classes and we're just waiting for the place to reopen after covid. Also, is there anything we should look at, specific to newports?  

Well not sure if there is a specific question. Newport’s are a good boat. If you and your wife can get along in 300-400 sq ft then you have the makings of a great adventure. Selling everything, buying a boat, and going out on the open sea sounds like a terrific beginning to adventure. There is a lot to consider. Not the least is how are you going to navigate through the Panama Canal. Another possibility is to participate in a Caribbean charter to get a feel of cruising. Good luck.  

I've heard the Canal is closed to pleasure craft right now. Of course, you won't be there very soon but it's something to keep focused on. Find out if the rigging is older than 10 years. That's something I'd be concerned about in terms of going offshore. A pinhole in the exhaust is an easy fix.  

Hillbillybuddha said: I sailed a lot when I was younger. Haven't sailed much since the 90s. But my wife and I want to spend a couple years sailing the Caribbean. We've saved up about $20k for a boat and we talked to a real estate agent yesterday about putting our house on the market. Anyway, it's a 1982 Newport. The gentleman we would buy the boat from bought it almost 4 months ago. Then covid happened, shelter in place, lost his job and needs to sell it. He showed me the bill of sale and her bought it for $6I more then he's asking because he just doesn't want to deal with it. He got a survey when he bought it and it looks good. He also got a separate engine inspection and the mechanic found a pin hole leak on the heat exchanger but said, other than that, the engine is in great shape. I'm wondering if this would be a good boat to sail down the coast of California, across Panama and around the Caribbean. I should also note that my wife and I have already signed up for the first 3 ASA classes and we're just waiting for the place to reopen after covid. Also, is there anything we should look at, specific to newports? Click to expand

Alan Gomes said: The Newport 30 is a decent boat but nothing amazing. If he is asking $20K it's not grossly overpriced but certainly not a bargain, either Click to expand

nightowle said: I've heard the Canal is closed to pleasure craft right now. Of course, you won't be there very soon but it's something to keep focused on. Find out if the rigging is older than 10 years. That's something I'd be concerned about in terms of going offshore. A pinhole in the exhaust is an easy fix. Click to expand

Hillbillybuddha said: Oh, no. He's asking less than $9k. Which would leave us enough to update a few things. Autopilot, maybe a/c, update the fridge, etc. And normally I wouldn't except a seller's survey (and I probably shouldn't here) but it is the survey from when he bought the boat a few months ago. The fact that he wasn't a seller when he got the survey makes me a little more inclined to trust it, but I'll probably get one anyway. Since I want to haul it out and paint the bottom (it was done 18 months ago and survey said the antifouling looked to be in good shape) I just don't want to have to think of painting the bottom while I'm enjoying the Caribbean. The survey also suggested changing 2 of the seacocks on the thru hulls. Click to expand

Universal diesel 5416 2 cylinder. Recently had new filters and fluids, the raw water / fresh water pump was replaced and the Hurth marine gear fluid was recently changed. But the survey said that the engine mount bolts were loose so the engine should be checked to see if it's inline and true and then have the bolts tightened.  

please send lots of pictures of your adventure here. we love pictures of great adventures  

There was a Newport 30 on the hard in a boatyard I frequented. I always liked the hull shape. In particular the forefoot was vee shaped and I always thought that would make an easy motion in waves. I think the interior has the engine in the cabin a little offset from centerline. Also, I think the propeller and shaft are offset too. I wondered how this would effect steerage under power. Otherwise it's a boat of the 70's not really designed for live aboard. It has a bit of a cramped interior and not the kind or storage you would want for a long cruise. There are 3 versions of this boat - all designed by Gary Mull - which are similar. Gary Mull was a great designer whose designs included my beloved Ranger 29, the venerable Ranger 23, the PHRF beater Ranger 26 and many others. The Newport 30-3 looks to be the most cruise friendly version.  

there are to concepts for cruising on a sailboat: campers and condos (my terms) most sailors today want modern condos. push button everything. computers and battery banks and electronic everywhere. all very expensive and hard to keep in a salty environment. i sail camper style myself. more sailing, less fixing for me. you do need camping skills which i have and enjoy. in 1969 the average length vessel for world sailing cruisers was 29'. not today. no room for the condo gear. most sailors today want the vessel to sail it self while they ride. i am very old school by choice. my crew and i do the camping work and sail the vessel manually. i think sailing is way more fun than riding. that is my choice. not many agree to sail manually like i do. if you like a camping life style. that 30 ft boat will be great for two. i prefer the camping style for cruising on a sailboat. my old alden is a camper. i sail with a big crew and we do everything manually. life is choices. 30' is a great size for two camper style sailors. send back pictures please, jon  

jon hansen said: there are to concepts for cruising on a sailboat: campers and condos (my terms) most sailors today want modern condos. push button everything. computers and battery banks and electronic everywhere. all very expensive and hard to keep in a salty environment. i sail camper style myself. more sailing, less fixing for me. you do need camping skills which i have and enjoy. in 1969 the average length vessel for world sailing cruisers was 29'. not today. no room for the condo gear. most sailors today want the vessel to sail it self while they ride. i am very old school by choice. my crew and i do the camping work and sail the vessel manually. i think sailing is way more fun than riding. that is my choice. not many agree to sail manually like i do. if you like a camping life style. that 30 ft boat will be great for two. i prefer the camping style for cruising on a sailboat. my old alden is a camper. i sail with a big crew and we do everything manually. life is choices. 30' is a great size for two camper style sailors. send back pictures please, jon Click to expand

Kings Gambit

I personally doubt that you will much enjoy sailing west to east in the Caribbean on a beamy, 30-ft boat built for the Newport to Catalina run across a 26 n.mi. channel. Boats sailing the Caribbean these days tend to be nearer 40 ft, often larger. The trip you are contemplating requires gear, even if “harbor hopping.” So, your camper’s tent will likely be full of “stuff.” As far as sailing down the CA coast, it depends on where you are starting and when you will leave, as well as on your experience, as to its practicality; unless, perhaps, your wish is only to blow down from where ever you are straight to San Diego, which requires overnighting, and thus watch standing. Does the boat have two sets of adequate ground tackle, a windlass, dinghy & outboard, solar panels (to power your fridge), radar, Bimini, dodger, chart table/nav station, etc? A friend of mine bought one of those vintage Newport models to travel up the CA coast from Long Beach. Got as far as Santa Barbara on the second try, then back home. Traded it up for a Catalina 34. The ASA series can prepare you for local sailing and short-distance cruising. But you should, IMHO, have a couple of years worth (say, 40 trips each year of one to three nights each trip, average) of hands-on experience with short-distance cruising and anchoring before making the trip you describe. That way you’ll better understand what you are asking of yourselves. Also, I think you will find difficulty getting insurance to sail south of Turtle Bay in Baja California anytime before November 1st. The folks I know who the have done the west coast-Panama-Caribbean trip and who ended up in FL or elsewhere in the GOM did so on 38 to 40-ft boats: Cascade 38 & Gulfstar 38 (couples) & Irwin 40 (two guys) and all had extensive sailing experience.  

jon hansen said: if you like a camping life style. that 30 ft boat will be great for two. i prefer the camping style for cruising on a sailboat. my old alden is a camper. 30' is a great size for two camper style sailors. Click to expand

lol. enjoyed that, had a good laugh. go back and reread what i said tom sawyer, not. 'kings' your great.  

Hillbillybuddha said: ............And normally I wouldn't except a seller's survey (and I probably shouldn't here) but it is the survey from when he bought the boat a few months ago. The fact that he wasn't a seller when he got the survey makes me a little more inclined to trust it, but I'll probably get one anyway........... Click to expand

i'm related to gov. bradford on the mayflower. i loved the name Pilgrim. bradfords good buddy was john alden. john alden designed my boat. 'the circle of life' , ain't that fun my old alden is a camper style sailboat. as i referred to.  

jon hansen said: hillbilly, kings, you need to watch this video. this is a great video of a "camper" style of sailing. yepper, "camper" style. i find this way more fun than condo style sailing, i find it allows for a much superior ride. i find it "the only way to go to sea" Click to expand

A Rawson 30 is a full-keel boat of 12,000# displacement, 9-ft beam. Your Newport 30 is a fin keel of 8,000# displacement, > 10.5 ft beam. On the surface of it, the R30 is a much more sea-capable vessel. A boat’s length is not the only consideration. But, if you’ve done all of this once before, why the need for ASA courses? You’re talking several hundred $$ for the both of you.  

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Tring to find any info or opinions on the older Newport 27s (I've only tracked down a couple of articles on 28s so far). I haven't looked at the particular boat yet (last survey is 2006), but it seems reasonable enough to take SD's list of things to look for and spend a morning looking. I don't expect it to be a long passage offshor boat, but if she's in good shape would it be reasonable in calmer summer weather to think about sailing her down the Columbia, up the Washington coast, and through the straight of Jaun de Fuca to the Puget sound? Or was she just too basic a boat to hope to handle something that vigorous. I wouldn't try to take it out until I had picked up a good bit of time on the river in all weather, but really, does anyone think it can take the passage safely? Alternately, if the boat is halfway decent, does this model ship well (say to Olympia, just about 100m north of it's current berth). I just can't afford the blue water boats I wanted, but something that would spend it's life on the sound and in the San Juans would be nice. Your opinions welcomed... thanks.  

The N27, provided it is sound in terms of rigging, sails, engine, etc, should be able to make it up the WA coast to the San Juans in good weather. Shipping is no problem, the boat is smaller than others that make the same trip up and down I-5 every year. Hopefully someone who is more active on this site than I can address my next item, and that is the Sailnet email lists. First of all, do they still exist? Reason I bring it up is when I owned my Newport 28 (my first boat), I gleaned most of my info off the Newport list. I see there are archived lists, but not sure what happened after July 08, which is the last message on the Newport archive. Anyway, tpohara, try searching through the Newport email list archive. There was a very active group of owners, many of them 27 owners. You could mine a lot of great data there.  

A passage down the Columbia and up into Puget Sound is do-able with a well found example of a boat like the N27, as long as you pick a good weather window. However unless you're specifically after that experience, trucking the boat to Olympia will be quicker, perhaps cheaper and less stressful in the long run, esp if you don't have a great deal of experience outside sheltered waters. You can avoid the nastier weather of winter, of course, but even so westerlies in the 30 knot range are not uncommon in Juan De Fuca strait and that stretch of water can be a bit intimidating too. Fog and heavy commercial traffic is another thing to worry about. But as I said if you're specifically after a short "offshore" hop (technically this wouldn't really qualify as offshore) then pick your weather and go when you feel you (and your boat) are up to it!  

i owned a 1970 n27 for about 7 years. sailed it frequently up and down the coast of florida. and over to the bahamas to the abacos and cruised around there for 3 months. the boat handled well for coastal cruising and did just fine crossing the gulf stream in a 20 kt north east wind. i just had a 9.9 outboard for power but only started the thing once the whole trip because the boat sailed well in light winds and was easily handled. the only issues she had were the compression post warping and one soft spot on the deck. i think there good tough boats in my opinion.  

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best trailer sailboat , buy lockley newport 17 parts , lockley newport 17 review , lockley sailboat buyer guide , need lockley newport 17 parts , newport 17 or compac 17 , newport 17 or montgomery 17 , newport 17 or siren 17 , newport 17 sailboat buyer guide , trailer sailor models - July 3, 2022

Lockley Newport 17 Sailboat Review, Modifications, and Parts Sources.

You found this page because you're considering a used newport 17 or searching for parts. .

I started writing this page on 7/3/22. It will be updated periodically. Join my Lockley Newport sailboat Group for answers to your sailboat questions.

Bill's Buyer's Guide to used Newport 17 Sailboats. 

The Newport 17 Sailboat was manufactured from 1974 to 1980. It weighs 800 pounds. Waterline length, 16.17 ft (0%), the closest to 15 ft ; Maximum draft, 4.75 ft ; Ballast, 235 lbs ; Hull speed, 5.39 knots. 

The N17 is basically the Dodge Aries "K" car of sailboats. Just like Dodge, Lockley Newport made the N17 with the basic essentials to keep the retail price affordable. This is why they're cheap to buy used today, which is appealing to 1st time sailboat buyers. You learn why it was cheap after you've sailed on other boats. It lacks a lot of refinements, but it's a great sailboat for entering the hobby. I've had my Newport 17 for three years and learned a lot about it's best and worst attributes.   

What's good about the Newport 17 sailboats?

• newport 17 hulls and decks are durable. .

The fiberglass hull and top cover is very strong. I'm 195 pounds and stand on the 48 year old top cover often without any cracking. I haven't met anyone in the Lockley / Newport Boats FB group who's had to repair a hole in their Newport 17 hull. My first sailboat was a Surprise by the same manufacturer. It had been dropped on concrete by accident without any damage. Lockley / Newport Boats are like tanks.  

•  Newport 17 overnight cuddy fits two adults.

I'm 6ft 3' and can fully lay down on either starboard or port side in the Newport 17 cuddy. There is 13.25" diameter molded recess for portable toilet,  under the forward berth, but finding toilet that will fit can be challenging.

Newport 17 molded recess for Portable Toilet. Samuel Klein posted these photos on how he modified the recess to fit this HASSOCK Portable Toilet .   

•  Newport 17 sailboats look great!

This is likely the reason why you're considering buying a Newport 17. It still looks good! The design has aged nicely over the past four decades. I'm often told my Newport 17 is beautiful and they're surprised when I tell them I paid only $600 for it with trailer. 

•  Newport 17 is great for new Sailors.

Everything is simple on this sailboat with only the essential rigging. After you get more accustomed to sailing the Newport 17, you can add whatever refinements to the rigging you want. It's great blank canvas for DIYer's to add and tweak things.        

The Bad Things about Newport 17 Sailboats.

• factory replacement parts don't exist anymore..

Lockley Newport Boats was a small family operated manufacturer. Rigging is Rigging. You can buy universal parts or adopt rigging from any other sailboats brands / models.  T he only factory specification replacement part you can buy for Newport 17 is the mast made and sold by DWYER MAST . You can buy aftermarket updated Newport 17 rudder design by Rudder Craft . The cuddy covers, deck rails, tiller, centerboard and any other mechanicals you'll have to fabricate yourself or repair. 

•  Centerboard / Keel prone to getting stuck or line breaking.

The Newport 17 centerboard keel tucks inside the hull.  You raise and lower the centerboard with a line in the center of the deck. The line is held in place with a cleat. This line  attaches to a retracting reel under the deck.

You can see the reel if you look under the floor from the cuddy.

Here's a photo by Richard Smith of the Winch and reel Assembly removed.

If your Lockley / Newport Boats Newport 17 centerboard line breaks, you need to either raise the boat or tip it on it's side to access the centerboard. You feed new centerboard line from the cabin attached to a wire (watch video) and attach new centerboard from the bottom of boat.

If you get late 70's Newport 17, the centerboard has updated hank crank with access cover from the cabin for repairs. (Pictured above)

This video guide shows you   how to replace centerboard line on most sailboats   including the Newport 17.

Newport 17 Main Sheet Traveler Rigging Layout.

This is the direction 3/8" diameter line in your Newport 17 mainsheet halyard line. Notice end of the line is attached to block at top of photo. It has halyard line eye splice, but you can tie your own knot instead if necessary. I like this Double Braid Polyester Sailing Line Rope for my sailboats and will tie my own knot. Otherwise  Castobargains makes halyard lines with an eye splice for your Newport 17 Traveler.     

Newport 17 Center Board / Swing Keel Dimensions. 

Another common issue is over time Newport 17's centerboard develops corrosion causing it to stick inside the hull.  We moor our Newport 17 on a lake with seasonal algae that builds up on the keel causing it to stick.   If you've just launched your sailboat and the centerboard won't lower, let the boat sit in the water for a day or two and the water may break centerboard loose.  If soaking doesn't work, you need to get the boat raised so you can pull out the centerboard and clean it's surface. I've seen people raise their sailboats with jack stands and lumber beams, two engine lifts, or use a tractor with nylon tow straps tied to the shovel to raise the boat. If you don't have these options, take the boat to a Marina with a repair shop and boat lift.  

Dimensions of Lockley Newport 17 sailboat Centerboard & Keel taken by Dan Shaver. Left click to save and view larger photo of this image offline.

•  No Navigation lights.

Under power of motor (sails down) or sleeping at night, You need one white light on the stern and one white light on top of your masthead and bi-color green and red light on your bow.

Under sail power at night, y ou need white light on the stern and tri-color white on top of masthead and bi-color green and red light on your bow. 

See more details on   Navigation Light Rules .

•  Non-Reefing Mainsheet.

Newport 17's factory mainsheet doesn't allow reefing. This allows you to shorten the mainsheet in high winds. Getting caught in 16+ knots with 24+ wind gusts will get scary under a full sail. You can buy new mainsheet that allows reefing. I ordered my   mainsheet for the Newport 17 with reefing points   for $675.

•  No Boom Vang.

A Boom Vang pulls the boom downward and removes the slack from your mainsheet. I bought this   Boom Vang for my Newport 17 .

•  No Furling jib.

Not crucial, but very helpful for Solo sailing. Avoid your jib sail lines flopping around in the wind like two angry snakes on your deck. 

•  No Outhaul rigging on the boom.

Only crucial if you're sailing with aftermarket loose foot mainsheet. It allows you to adjust the position of the mainsheet along the boom on low wind days. You can easily make your own Outhaul with one block and a cleat. 

•  No Topping lift, ( see guide here )

Topping lift is a line that runs from the top of your mast to the end of your boom. Without a topping lift, your boom will drop onto the floor or your foot when lower your mainsheet. Not having one will become annoying and it's usually first thing people add. I recommend adding shackle to your boom, so you disconnect the Topping Lift while sailing, otherwise it may obstruct your mainsheet.

•  Wooden rudder ages and cracks.

Lockley Newport Boats saves money on using marine grade wood for their rudders. If you moor your sailboat on a lake, you need to preserve the life of your rudder and remove it or tip back out of the water when not sailing. People have used fiberglass to repair their cracked rudders.   

•  Wood cuddy covers age and develop rain water leaking.

Over time the wood used for the three cuddy cover planks will warp, causing rain to leak inside the boat. Many people make rain shields.

Best Gas Outboard Motor for the Newport 17?

Suzuki's 2.5hp model DF2.5L2 outboard motor is popular choice in our Newport 17 Sailboat group. It's a perfect choice for any sailboat that is 22' and smaller. At only 31 lbs, it's the lightest 4-stroke Suzuki long shaft model outboard ever built.

Best Electric Trolling Motor for the Newport 17?

You need a motor for several reasons on a sailboat. Maneuvering your boat to and from the boat launch. Back and forth to a mooring buoy and when you need to avoid catastrophes from happening like running into trees or rocks. Many people use gas outboard motors up to 5 hp. We sail our Newport 17 sailboat on a city lake that doesn't allow gas motors. 

This  Minn Kota C2 30 lb Thrust Trolling Motor will get two adults back to shore with 16 knot head wind under full charge. If you predict sailing with four adults, invest in the Minn Kota 55-lb Thrust .  

I use this Mighty Max 12 volt battery in this battery box & power center mounted to floor inside the cuddy. I'm using this  Trolling Motor Extension cable Kit that runs under crew bench seat.

The battery is charged with this 12V Sunar Solar Panel  mounted on top of porthole on the stern. 

Before I tell you everything that myself and my Newport 17 friends hate about it, let's remind ourselves it was sold as an “entry level” sailboat. Reasonably priced to get families on the water without breaking the bank. This is why you see Newport 17's selling cheaper than same size sailboats. Unless the dealer or previous owners added aftermarket parts, it lacks a lot of features and rigging. Many Newport 17 owners are DIYers like myself that have added these refinements on low budgets.

Release Mainsheet before you capsize your Newport 17 Sailboat!  

Any sailboat can capsize with an inexperienced Captain.  You simply don't sail in wind speeds beyond your skill level on any sailboat. The  Newport 17 is 700 pounds with a small keel. It's sails like a Hippo on a Unicycle in high winds. The Newport 17 factory mainsheet doesn't allow reefing. Getting caught in 16+ knots with 24+ wind gusts in Newport 17 under full sail is scary. A high wind can push you over if you don't release your mainsheet!  The individual who owns the capsized Newport 17 in above photo was inexperienced. If they could have reefed their mainsheet, this accident may have been avoided. 

How to recover Newport 17 sailboat if you capsize?

Add floatation device to the top of your mast. Two or three milk jugs will work. If you don't have mast floatation when you capsize, you can loop a children's bouncy ball around the mast and drag it to the top to lift the sunken last. Then pull up the centerboard and have somebody tow your boat to shore, so you can bail out the cuddy.   

Replacement and alternative parts recommendations for Newport 17 Sailboat.

Read about our experience ordering new sails for your Newport 17 sailboat .

Order this  Replacement Drain plug for Newport 17  by Seasense on Amazon.

These clam cleats will replace factory 1/4 Traveler line cleats on the Newport 17. You can reuse factory screws to mount these new cleats. Factory cleats had worn out from years of usage and lost their bite. No more tying knots!

Best Mooring and Tow Line for Newport 17 and Sailboats 3000 pounds or less.

We use this Boat Mooring Pennant for our Newport 17 sailboat for the past three years. It's got Zinc plated heavy duty spring shackles. Our lake winds are constantly shifting and there's been no wear and tear on this heavy duty Mooring line.

What are the better alternative sailboats to the Newport 17 with overnight cuddy and centerboard?

PRECISION 17.

Montgomery 19.

Balboa 20. 

Catalina 22.

Learn and  Practice Tying Nautical Knots with this Hitch Cleat Kit  Great for teaching kids how to tie the sailboat to the dock or your mooring buoy.

Craziest Internet Story I've found about the Newport 16 & 17 sailboats.

Mady August 29, 2022

It’s very sad that Captain Robby Smith passed away. It would have been so fun to have met him and heard his Sailing stories in person. It sounds like he had a real passion for Adventure!

Chris August 23, 2022

What a great story. I had read it a few years back when I first bought my NP17. Great site!

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NEWPORT 16 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of NEWPORT 16. Built by Lockley Newport Boats (USA) and designed by C. William Lapworth, the boat was first built in 1965. It has a hull type of Swing Keel and LOA is 4.75. Its sail area/displacement ratio 26.60. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

NEWPORT 16 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about NEWPORT 16 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the newport 16.

NEWPORT 16 was designed by C. William Lapworth.

Who builds NEWPORT 16?

NEWPORT 16 is built by Lockley Newport Boats (USA).

When was NEWPORT 16 first built?

NEWPORT 16 was first built in 1965.

How long is NEWPORT 16?

NEWPORT 16 is 4.17 m in length.

What is mast height on NEWPORT 16?

NEWPORT 16 has a mast height of 5.49 m.

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• Sailboat Guide

Newport 33 is a 33 ′ 0 ″ / 10.1 m monohull sailboat designed by Gary Mull and built by Capital Yachts Corp. between 1971 and 1996.

• 1 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 2 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 3 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 4 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 5 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 6 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 7 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 8 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 9 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 10 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 11 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 12 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 13 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 14 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View
• 15 / 15 Oceanside, CA, US 1983 Newport 33 $26,000 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

It is said that the NEWPORT 33 is a stretched version of the NEWPORT 30. Shallow draft version: 4.00’ / 1.22m

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Inflatable dinghy: 8'10" dana inflatable boat review, 8ft 10in dana review by ambassador jamie fowler.

I have a 30ft Newport sailboat and the Dana is the perfect addition! She fits perfectly on the bow. She is super lightweight and I am able to crank her up on my own, place her on the deck or take her off with only one person!

I have had the Newport Vessels Dana for little over a month now and I can honestly say that this little  inflatable dinghy   has surpassed my expectations! Initially I wanted a sturdy boat to be able to shuttle people to and from the boat from an anchorage, be able to zip around the lake for some sunset cruising and dock up for a dinner here and there at the lakefront restaurants. In my first month this dinghy has been great, keeping me and friends safe, dry, and comfortable while we zip around the lake.

I currently have the Dana outfitted with a small 3.5 HP outboard engine mounted to the dinghy and it works great! I chose this motor to commute around because I live on a bigger lake, if you’re only using the boat to get to shore, an electric motor works great and will save you money. We have even carried four grown adults in the Dana, the dinghy still felt stable, safe, and moved at a good clip! With that much weight and such a small motor, the inflatable dinghy takes longer to get moving, but once you have momentum it moved along nicely. I opted for the second bench seat which has come in very handy, especially when taking people to and from shore or other sailboats, I would definitely recommend always ordering the second seat. Soon I will be ordering two  Newport Underseat Bags   to store life vests...and to make the aluminum seats more comfortable when riding through wakes or waves.

I recommend mounting navigation or visibility lights, like the  Railblaza Bow Lights   or   Railblaza Dinghy Visibility Kit   to use at night, they work great and will keep you safe after the sun goes down. (One Coast Guard ticket and those lights will pay for themselves!)

The Dana is sturdy, durable, fun and does everything I need while still small enough for me to be able to handle on my own. I’ve only had this little tender boat for a short period of time but feel like I have gained all the confidence in her that I need to take her on longer adventures! I plan to use her to crab as well as take her scuba diving this summer. I will be able to use the inflatable boat as a buoy to mark my diving location as well as a tool to hold any diving gear.

These boats really are versatile, durable, dependable and SUPER fun to drive! I can’t wait to get back out on the water and see what adventures we can get in to!

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